RESTAURANTS DINING OUT

WHOEVER CREATED the very first “theme” restaurant must have been either a frustrated vaudevillian or the parent of a large herd of unruly children constantly demanding attention. He obviously didn’t come up with the idea out of an overwhelming need to promote the welfare of outstanding cuisine. Granted, theme restaurants are entertaining; hidden inside those remodeled 19th-century warehouses and pseudo silver mines are usually some fascinating artifacts and memorabilia. But more often than not, once you strip away the Minnie Mouse waitresses, the vintage-car salad bars, the red-checked table-clothed picnic tables, and the deft-handed hibachi chefs, all that remains is a distinctively designed mediocre restaurant.

And remember: You’ll be paying for all that atmosphere in more ways than one. Don’t expect to escape from a theme restaurant with a tab of less than $15 per person (assuming you don’t order any wine, extra vegetables, or dessert); and if you’re counting on a romantic evening for two, forget it. Theme restaurants pride themselves on their ability to “bring out the kid in you”-whether you want it brought out or not.

Be sure to make reservations well in advance; theme restaurants are perpetually packed with Boy Scout troops, family reunions, high school prom dates, and birthday boys. Unfortunately, the most popular theme restaurants don’t even take reservations during weekends, so unless you want to dine before six o’clock, tack on about a two-hour wait. And even if you do arrive on time proudly bearing reservations, you’ll probably be escorted to the adjoining cocktail lounge for “just a few moments while your table is being prepared.” Add another 20 minutes.

Once you are finally seated (which will probably involve a great deal of ceremony), you’ll need to devote all your attention to the reading of the menu, a task that in itself can be a real challenge. Usually the menu will be very large and very cute and will somewhat resemble a maze. Your job will be to figure out which selections are for real and which ones are strictly attention-getters. Good luck. The choices will vary slightly from restaurant to restaurant, but basically the selection will include the following: various cuts of steak, some form of chicken, a little fish (maybe shrimp), bread, soup and salad, and several gooey desserts. Since everything is mass-produced, expect a little wilted lettuce, a baked potato instead of the french fries you specified, and melted ice cream. The bread should arrive some time between the main course and dessert.

Knowing this, if you still really must dine at a theme restaurant, at least go when you’re in a jovial mood. Maybe then you won’t notice that the food isn’t that great and that the kid sitting in the pumpkin booth behind you just threw a wad of gum into your dining companion’s hair. Maybe then you’ll be able to sit back and appreciate the overall “experience” of the restaurant. Then again, maybe you’ll feel like your time and money have flown right out the window with Big Bird, your waiter.

The opinion you form about a theme restaurant depends on which type you opt for: If you choose one well suited to your mood and personality, you may be in for an enjoyable evening. If not, “Fasten your seat belts; it’s going to be a bumpy ride.”

Magic Time Machine. Strictly for kiddies at heart. From the moment your cartoon-character hostess escorts you to your “environment” (“table” would be a gross misrepresentation of what you get), you sense an overwhelming aura of confusion. To one side you glimpse the Lone Ranger serving steaks to five leisure-suited businessmen sitting in a booth shaped like an overgrown dunce cap. To your left you faintly hear the last chorus of “Happy Birthday”; you spot Kermit the Frog, Annie Oakley, Tarzan, and Cleopatra offering a candle-lit chocolate cake to a screaming mob of young children gathered in a huge crayon-box booth in the next room. Without a doubt, the Magic Time Machine is extremely overdone even for a theme restaurant; even so, it is the best of the meat and potatoes variety.

Bobby McGee’s Conglomeration. Of similar fare and environment, it is less successful at both. While the vintage MG car converted into a salad bar at the Magic Time Machine seemed a clever idea (lettuce in the body, fixings under the hood), the bathtub converted into a bag of Purina Rabbit Food at Bobby McGee’s just seemed dumb. And our deadpan waiter, a poor excuse of a Superman, had all the personality of a drippy Clark Kent.

Old Spaghetti Warehouse. Perfect for the under-six, over-60 set. The youngsters will love the basically Chef Boy-ar-dee-style pasta dishes (all served with paper Italian flags stuck ceremoniously on top), and the grandparents can reminisce amongst the turn-of-the-century memorabilia that cover the walls. The best thing about the Old Spaghetti Warehouse is the price: Every entrée is under $6. The worst thing is the noise level: Tables are packed so closely together you can’t help but overhear what’s going on at the tables across the room.

Baby Doe’s Matchless Mine. Best for sightseers impressed by the view of Stem-mons Freeway at sunset. Baby Doe’s isn’t as hokey as it could be (okay, so there is a real live mule guarding the entrance). The service is as admirable as the view; but as for the food, well, it’s the last thing you notice. Not that it’s bad, it’s just that it doesn’t draw your attention like the mule and the view.

94th Aero Squadron. Save this one for Uncle Joe, the World War I flying ace. Why would anyone want to return to World War I France? This restaurant-cum-foxhole is so realistically recreated it gave us the creeps; as we wound our way into the body of the restaurant, we almost expected the shrill ear-piercing sound of a falling bomb to send the sandbagged walls crashing in around us. As with most theme restaurants, if you don’t have reservations you’re out of luck (even on weekdays). We didn’t and we were – we waited in the Love Field runway-front bar for an hour and a half, staring at a roomful of empty tables in front of us.

Trail Dust Steak House. For the urban cowboy who’s not quite sure he’s ready for the real thing. Of course Trail Dust is located in a big barn, but what’s the reasoning behind the long metal playground slide that stretches from the second floor to the first? Yes, they really do cut off the ties of erstwhile businessmen, and yes, the steaks are charbroiled over mesquite coals, and in the midst of all the chaos (a live band, the tie-cutting ceremonies, squeals from restaurant patrons slipping down the slide), no one seems to see the silliness of it all.

Trader Vic’s. For hotel guests from Poughkeepsie. Trader Vic’s used to be the Polynesian restaurant in which to wine and dine business associates and such -if only because of the exotic drinks that are as lethal as Butane and arrive in assorted gimicky containers. Now, the restaurant is frequented by a sad sampling of polyester-clad hotel patrons and a few star-crossed couples. The food is grossly overpriced; not to mention bad.

Kobe Steaks. For romantic couples who aren’t afraid to show it and don’t mind company. The classiest and least theme-conscious of the recent rash of Oriental hibachi-chef restaurants. Our chef was – of course -young, Oriental, extremely polite, and very skilled with a knife. Unfortunately, the diner is still forced to share his dining experience with 15 or so fellow spectators. At least they don’t serve drinks in little glass Buddhas.

Il Sorrento. Strictly for people who have never been to Italy. The exterior of this Italian shrine is so incredibly overdone we almost didn’t go in; we’re still not sure why we did. The interior is just as pompous-lots of mammoth Roman urns and headless concrete statues, and the strolling accordion player was about as inspired as the food.

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.<BR>The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive You can expect to spend more than $15 tor a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard. V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.



DISCOVERIES



(Serendipitous Experiences From Off the Beaten Path)

Ho Wa and South China. Last time we were in San Francisco, everyone was still talking about dim sum -a ritualistic, Southern Chinese way to serve Cantonese meats, sweets, and pastries. In simple terms, dim sum is a cavalcade of bite-size appetizers served by a tray-carrying or cart-pushing waiter or waitress who scurries between your table and the kitchen with a different kind of delicacy every trip. Dim sum literally means “heart’s delight,” and the restaurants in California serving lunch in this manner have really caught on. There are two restaurants in Dallas experimenting with dim sum on a weekend-only basis: Ho Wa and South China. Ho Wa is probably the more legitimate and un-Americanized of the two establishments and their dim sum is savored by a large number of Chinese locals every Saturday and Sunday There is no menu. You simply wait until the tray comes around, then sample two or three platefuls of the chefs latest innovations By the time you finish those, the tray will have reappeared with a new load of dumplings, fried wonton, steamed pork buns, or spring rolls In San Francisco, the empty plates left on your table are tallied to calculate the final bill. At both Dallas restaurants, they’ve modernized the system and slicked it up a bit. yet the concept is basically the same and the food is fairly palatable A word to the squeamish: things like duck feet or glutinous rice flour rolls are not uncommon selections, and they may give you the creeps “Try it, you’ll like it,” is not necessarily the rule of thumb Dim sum is more fun than filling, but it’s definitely worth discovering. (Ho Wa. 10601 Church Road. 341-5945 Dim sum served Sat and Sun 9-3. South China. 5424 Mockingbird. 826-5420 Dim sum served Sat and Sun. 11:30-2:30 Both $)



CONTINENTAL



Café Royal. The surroundings are as exquisite as the Mozart played by the pianist on duty during dinner. As for the food, scallops in pepper sauce are a fine opener, and a better choice than the thin, too briny lobster soup. Classic entrées like sirloin with béarnaise sauce are safe bets: but the more adventurous nouvelle cuisine-inspired choices are the point here: among them, flavorful duckling supreme with mustard cream sauce and tender, piquant veal steak with lime butter. Minor shortcomings are dull salads, limp vegetables (which, at $3.50 a la carte should taste as good as they look), and occasionally burnt coffee. Service can be very slow But all is forgiven with the extraordinarily refreshing strawberry bavaroise. (Plaza of the Americas. 605 N Ervay. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-fri 11:30-3; Dinner: Mon Sat 6:30-10 30 All credit cards $$$$)

Calluaud’s. Calluaud’s is open for lunch, and that’s good news for connoisseurs of class, since the place effectively defines class for Dallas restaurants The lovely terra-cotta and cream-colored surroundings and the service are as quietly elegant as always And the food continues to hold its own While the entrees are never less than good, it is in the areas of appetizers and desserts that Calluaud’s truly shines. Two equally fine openers are scallops in white wine and cream sauce and mellow tomato soup that banishes all memories of the Campbell’s version. To finish, you can’t go wrong with any of the soufflés or fruit tarts. (2679 McKinney. 8235380. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30: Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat seatings from 6-7 and at 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations only. MC. V. AE $$$$)



D Revisits The Chimney. We found we’d been underestimating this understated place. While the service was slow and the appetizers unappetizing, the entrées were, in a word, wonderful. We began with the appetizer of the house-a melange of crab, scallops, and white fish in a crepe topped with hollandise-and found it heavy and dull. Our escargot a la bourguigonne arrived overcooked to the point of being almost burnt. These were followed by salads in the house dressing-a light and clear Italian that was very good. After a considerable wait, the main course arrived and we were humbled. Because 10 of the 18 listed entrées are veal dishes, we expected the veal forestière to be good; it was better than that. The brandy, white wine, and cream sauce enhanced with real morels seemed the perfect companion to the buttery slivers of meat underneath. And the Rehsteak Chimney-tournedos from Montana venison-was breathtakingly tender and the kind of thing you find yourself talking about for days afterward. At lunch, The Chimney seems to become a ladies’ place where bridge-clubish meals are prepared as though the chef is distracted with the preparation of evening offerings We enjoyed the chicken Marco Polo and New England scrod, but the light broth laced with sherry that appeared unannounced beforehand was our favorite touch. (Willow Creek Center. 9739 N Central at Walnut Hill. 369-6466 Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10:30. Sun 6-10. Reservations All credit cards. $$$)



Ewald’s. Less pretentious and flashy than most other continental restaurants in Dallas. Ewald’s ranks m the highest echelon when it comes to the quality of its food. Those willing to forgo the standard continental fixtures-tuxedo-clad French waiters and brass candelabra-will find treasures of tenderloin and veal awaiting them. One of the standouts on the menu is the tournedos St. Moritz (beef tenderloin with artichoke hearts, béarnaise, and tomato concasse with sautéed mushrooms). We also found the veal steak “au moulin’’ (veal sautéed with mushrooms, cognac, and cream) to be up to its usual tasty excellence But the star of the menu continues to be the veal Pagallo (veal stuffed with Canadian bacon and Swiss cheese, covered with a piquant sour cream sauce). Ewald’s has a credible pepper steak and a respectable Chateaubriand; but the beet takes a back seat to some of the house specialties like shrimp du chef (broiled shrimp in a delicious barbecue-like sauce), which is available in either appetizer portions or as an entrée, or the snapper bonne femme (served in a white wine sauce with mushrooms). Desserts are superb, especially the Black Forest cake, strawberries Romanoff, or the cream caramel. (5415 W Lovers Ln. 357-1622. Mon-Fri 6-10 30. Sat lilt 11. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC. V AE. $$$)

Jean Claude. The only bad thing about eating at jean Claude is the demands it places on one’s short-term memory There is no menu; instead, the waiter or you first the appetizers, then the entrées, and finally the desserts available. Given that there are often10 or more entrée choices, you may feel exhausted by the time coffee arrives. But once you’ve ordered, all is well, with Jean Claude himself chopping and sautéing in the open-air kitchen. For appetizers, we’ve enjoyed the scallops in cream and garlic sauce, the salmon mousse, and the warm crab meat and lobster salad Only the patés have disappointed. Jean Claude is particularly successful-and imaginative-with fish entrées, among them swordfish with grapefruit sauce and poached trout wrapped in lettuce For dessert, you can’t go wrong with the intensely chocolate mousse or the fruit tarts. (2404 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Tue-Sat seatings at 6 and 9. Reservations only. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Jennivine. Jennivine is the ultimate wine bar, coupling fine wine with superior cuisine. Patés, which can be ordered a capella or as a prelude to dinner, were uniformly excellent and ranged from a creamy salmon to a coarse poivre. Jennivine was one of the first Dallas restaurants to swim in the rough waters of fresh fish. Catch the New England halibut, a juicy, sweet filet bathed in a garlic, dill, and butter sauce. But just when you thought it was safe to eat in a Dallas restaurant again, Jennivine has begun to feature shark. It was, well, chewy. Carnivores can devour the lamb curry, escorted by chunky mango chutney and fresh coconut and raisins. Chicken rnirepoix, an Oriental-style sauté with vegetables, is, however, oddly flavorless. Desserts are the restaurant’s Dunkirk. The cheesecake was plastery, the trifle trifling, and the rhubarb cream tasted like the fuel for a V2 rocket. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC. V, AE, DC. $$)

L’Ambiance. This may or may not be in the ranks of the best continental cuisine in town, but it is definitely the best you’ll ever eat in a converted gas station. Inside the uninspiring exterior is a first-rate restaurant that could well be characterized as “full-service.” The hosts greet patrons at the door as if welcoming house guests And although the surroundings are standard cut-glass-and-starched-linen, the atmosphere is easy Salads are impeccable, and soups are fresh and flavorful. Of the entrées we tried, we especially liked the tender medallions of veal with mushroom purée and the pepper-sauced filet mignon flamed with cognac (an exception to our rule of avoiding flamed dishes, which tend to be long on flash and short on flavor) The pastry selection is varied and gorgeous. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6:30-10. All credit cards. $$$)

Le Relais. This glorified coffee shop is a welcome addition to the short list of local almost round-the-clock establishments Although it certainly outdoes the competition at 4 am-Denny’s. 7-Eleven. the Brasserie-one expects more, considering the hefty tab We haven’t had anything truly bad at Le Relais, but we haven’t had anything really good, either. Offerings range from pedestrian soups and sandwiches to more ambitious offerings (tasteless veal piccata, bland ham and mushroom crepes) Desserts-oversweet ice cream sundaes, over-liqueured chocolate mousse, and uninspired fruit tarts-look a lot better than they taste. (Plaza of the Americas. 605 N Ervay 747-7222. ex 1706 Daily; 6 am-midnight. No reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Le Rendez-Vous. The expansion and refurbishment of this once-small bistro is the best thing that could have happened to the place Before, it was small and intimate. And even though the size has doubled, the intimacy is still not lost. What’s new, in addition to more tables, is an air of formality that makes the place seem like exactly what it is-a first-class French restaurant. The kitchen delivers consistent quality with a number of veal dishes and one of the better pepper steaks around. The cold salmon platter is excellent, although on more than one occasion we’ve been baffled to find that the salmon with béarnaise was a bust because the salmon was too dry. The shrimp Pernod, which has long been excellent, still is. Le Rendez-Vous excels in service; waiters are efficient but not hovering. (3237 McKinney at Hall. 745-1985 Lunch and dinner served daily 11 am-2 am. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Les Saisons. Les Saisons is a study in contrast-the French country inn decor of the window seating (with a splendid view of Turtle Creek and downtown) contrasts with the lush main eating area in the style of a Viennese boudoir. The menu also reflects this theme of contrasts. The shrimp Les Saisons and the leeks with crab meat are both succulent appetizers of seafood morsels served in a light piquant sauce, but the gamey-tasting escargots are to be avoided The simple and superb cold smoked trout with horseradish sauce and cucumber salad is the best choice. Salads are ho-hum, but the hearty onion soup is good among its kind. Among the entrées, we liked the rack of lamb and the grilled swordfish. But the veal chop with chanterelles is a good concept done in by an overzealous hand with the salt jar. To finish the meal, we recommend the chocolate mousse and the fresh strawberries, marinated with just the right touch of Grand Marnier, and topped with sour cream. Service is attentive, with a refreshing lack of haughtiness. (165 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm. Fri & Sat 11:30 am till midnight. Reservations All credit cards. $$$)



D Revisits La Vieille Varsovie. The Old Warsaw is in danger of becoming a restaurant in which food no longer holds center stage. The waiters serve with flair and theatricality, and for the first time in many years, .we heard Malaguena played on the piano. But something is wrong in the kitchen. In two visits, we had a tough duckling with kiwi fruit and raspberry vinegar, a mushy filet of sole stuffed with crab, salads swimming in dressing, fresh asparagus ruined by overcooking, and green beans with far too much garlic. The fish paté was graced with a delicate lobster sauce, but the mersault had not been properly incorporated into the other sauce, giving it an alcohol taste. The champagne sauce for the poached salmon was better, but the fish was dry. Other details were missing. And nothing we ate merited the expense of the high-priced wine list, which began, with few exceptions, at $25, and averaged $65 a bottle, or half the price of a dinner for two We had been advised to try the fresh lobster, the Dover sole with lemon butter, and the rack of lamb-dishes that are not the test of French cooking, but are probably more manageable. Twice, we were seated beside the huge cabinets on which the waiters perform their handiwork, emitting heat and causing claustrophobia. Surely more of this work could be done in the kitchen, where someone should be tasting and checking the food. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Fri 6-10 20. Sat till 11:30. Reservations required. Jackets required for men. All credit cards. $$$$)



The Mansion. Like its parent, 21 in New York, the Mansion is a place to see and be seen-no restaurant in Dallas can match the class and elegance of its decor. The soups and salads are high society; as for the entrées, while the breast of pheasant smothered with chanterelles was perfectly juicy and sweet, and the thick filet arrived charbroiled on the outside but pink on the inside as ordered, other entrees need some refurbishing. The chicken hash, a staple of the 21. tasted disappointingly canned. As for the veal with goose livers, well, God probably never intended them to mingle on the same china. Desserts, though gorgeous, were a disaster The chocolate soufflé was chemical and pasty, the chocolate and tangerine mousse were reminiscent of unflavored gelatin, and the pot de chocolate came out ponderous and bitter. The service is brusquely French, but grows friendlier the more you frequent the place. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 5262121. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Brunch: Sat & Sun 11-2; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-9:30. Fri-Sat 6-10:30; Reservations MC. V. AE. DC. $$$$)

Patry’s. Your appreciation of this restaurant may ultimately depend on how much you believe in the axiom that good things come to those who wait. On a recent visit we spent half an hour waiting in the bar for a table-even though we had reservations-and then 25 minutes anticipating the arrival of our waiter after we had been seated and given menus. That type of treatment is not totally extraordinary for Patry’s. which has a loyal following and a tendency to be cold and forboding to newcomers. But if you have a high tolerance for indifferent service, you can eventually dine in high style at Patry’s. The food is consistently good. The best entrée on the menu is the leeks stuffed with milk sausage cooked in cream, and the pepper steak is among the best in the city. We also like the crab Nantua and the grilled lamb chops. Patry’s entrées are complemented by an excellent selection of fine desserts and one of the better wine lists in Dallas. (2504 McKinney. 748-3754. Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

Valeriana’s. If you walk into Valérianes and experience a sense of déjà vu, the feeling is understandable. The intimate restaurant used to be the home of Jean Claude. The new chef-proprietaire serves the same high-quality cuisine that characterized its predecessor. Everything is homemade, from the paté to the tart fresh fruit sorbets served as palate cleansers to the closing chestnut soufflé. The scallop mousse was a mound of creamy fish doused in champagne sauce. Shrimp showered with soy sauce, ginger, and garlic proved you don’t have to be Chinese to turn out an authentic Oriental dish. Rack of lamb racked up points, and fish lovers should reel in the Dover sole, piled to the gills with crab meat. Only the sweets struck a sour note. Although the chestnut soufflé was so light it nearly floated, the cappuccino mousse lacked the sting of espresso, and meringue chantilly glacée tasted like it came from Ashburn’s. (2520 Cedar Springs between Routh and Fairmount. 741-1413. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



INDIAN



India House. Let’s face it: Not that many Dallas ! diners know the difference between alu tikki and tan-doori chicken. Selections like these are not exactly part of the American culinary mainstream. But even if you don’t know what you are eating at India House, you’ll discover one thing quickly: It’s very good. Both the tandoori chicken and beef, marinated delights served with a shovel-sized portion of fluffy rice, are tasty, if extremely filling. And the appetizers, such as chicken chat-chunks of chicken served with mint chutney-are superb. Abundant fresh-from-the-oven breads are excellent. India House also offers a lunch buffet, which sometimes gets a little unorganized when the crowd starts to outnumber the waiters by too large a ratio. Dinner service, however, is extremely attentive Save room for dessert: the cheese balls in sweet milk are delightful. (5422 E Mockingbird. 823-1000 Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11. Reservations. MC. AE. V, DC. $$)

Sahib. You don’t have to wear a sari or own a Nehru jacket to like Indian food. If there is one place that curries our flavor, it is Sahib. The interior in shades of forest green and peach is striking in its simplicity Canopies of airy gauze float over the window-side tables. In the back are tandoors, clay ovens where you can watch the two best dishes being prepared naan (fresh bread) and tandoori chicken (lobster-colored marinated chicken of extraordinary succulence). Dinner begins with papads. spicy lentil wafers served with homemade chutney Try the cold chicken chat as an appetizer Fish masala is a tender filet served in a four-alarm hot tomato sauce. The pureed spinach was a perfect foil for the coriander and pink-to-perfection meat in lamb sagwala. The all-you-can-eat lunch, which features a dozen of the restaurant’s specialties, is an untouchable bargain. (9100 Caruth Plaza 9872301 Lunch Daily 11:30-3; Dinner: Daily 5:30-11. MC. V. AE $$)



ITALIAN



Newcomer: Bugatti. The name sounds like a sports car and the interior of this North Dallas pasta place looks like somebody’s basement rec room, but the food is the real thing: excellent Italian cooking. If the menu looks like a Xerox of the old Lombardi’s bill of fare, that’s because basically it is. The chef at Bugatti. Setimio Car-relli, and the owner. Mario Peres, are both Lombardi’s veterans. And what they are essentially doing at their new Walnut Hill restaurant is serving up exactly what you would have found at the old Lombardi’s on McKinney. And if that constitutes culinary plagarism, so what’ Bugatti has not just copied the old Lombardi’s cuisine, they’ve done a better job of it than has been accomplished by the new Lombardi’s (La Trattoria Lombardi on Hall Street). The tortellini alia crema (called tortellini alia panna at La Trattoria Lombardi) is tastier at Bugatti and also cheaper -$6 at dinner vs. $9.50 Saltimbocca Alia Romana will cost $8 at dinner vs. $13.25 at La Trattoria Lombardi, and eggplant parmigiana will run you $5 95 vs. $11 95 Cost comparisons like this would be crass and useless were it not for the fact that both restaurants are offering dishes that over the broad range of the two menus taste basically identical If you miss the crab cannelloni that seemed to disappear when the old Lombardi’s burned, rejoice, it’s back again and just as good as ever at Bugatti. (2574 Walnut Hill. 350-2470 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. fri ana Sat 5:30-11:00. Closed Sun. AE. V, MC. $$)



Campisi’s. This restaurant is a Dallas institution whose charm may be lost on the uninitiated. Count on standing in line to gain admission to the dark, dingy interior attended by harried waitresses. Most of the veal, pasta, and pizza entrées are in the ordinary-to-tasty range (Avoid, however, the overpriced, sorry crab claws) The best bet is the mos-taccioli (tube-shaped pasta) with outstanding homemade Italian sausage Dessert is either Black Forest cake or cheesecake, two equally bad options. (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355. 827-7711. Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight. Sat till 1 am. Sun noon-midnight. Reservations for 6 or more No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

La Tosca. It’s obvious that this relative newcomer to the Dallas restaurant community is quickly becoming a tradition Reason La Tosca offers one of the most reliable and extensive Italian menus in town. The appetizers, for instance, include selections like cozze gratinate (broiled mussels with bread crumbs and garlic) and crespelle fiorentina (small crepes with spinach, ricotta, and cream sauce) La Tosca is one of the only places in town to offer an octopus salad, although at this writing we’ve yet to sample It. We liked the zuppa di lu-mache (escargot soup) and found the minestrone to be perfectly suited to our taste once we added some of the extra Parmesan the waiter brought with it. The best pasta dish Is the paglia e fieno aurora (so-called “hay and straw” spinach and regular noodles in a tomato and cream sauce) Other strong points include the high-quality veal dishes like saltimbocca alia romana The dessert menu is also filled with deli-CIOi, uprises, like the superb strawberry tarts. (7713 Inwood. 352-8373 Tue-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri-Sun 5: 30-11 Closed Mon All credit cards. $$$)

La Trattoria Lombard). This place is the reincarnation of what for years was one of the culinary mammoths of McKinney Avenue This is essentially the same old Lombardi’s we’d grown to love in the past They still do good things with fish, veal, and chicken, even though the kitchen has moved to a Hall Street storefront that is slightly less opulent than the majestic old mansion on McKinney. We’ve sampled the veal with lemon butter and the veal marsala and found them up to the old Lombardi’s high standards. And the eggplant parmigiana, long a standout, is still stellar No reunion with Lombardi’s would be complete for us without tasting the minestrone (still tasty after all these years) and the frittata. the Italian omelets that have been a house specialty for several years The bad news is what you won’t find among the pasta selections The crab meat cannelloni, one of the tastier dishes at the old Lombardi’s, didn’t make it to the new location, and the cannelloni verdi tricolore (green cannelloni stuffed with meat and spinach and served with a red or white sauce) doesn’t make much of a substitute One of the high points that survived the move is the excellent service The maitre d’ still greets each customer with a handshake and gushes salutations like “so good to see you again” (even if you’ve never been there before). (2976 Hall. 823-6040 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2, Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri-Sat 5:30-11 Closed Sunday. All credit cards. $$$)

Mario’s. About as far from the spaghetti-and-meatballs, red-checked-tablecloth stereotype as an Italian restaurant can be. Mario’s is elegant and, of course, expensive. Appetizers are somewhat disappointing: Minestrone is boring, escargots are heavy, and sautéed shrimp is bland. But the main dishes- especially the many variations on veal and the homemade green lasagna-are consistently excellent, and served in generous portions. And the soufflés equal those at any French restaurant in town. Service is friendly and efficient. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations. Jackets required for men. All credit cards $$$)

Sergio’s. The pasta’s the thing at Sergio’s-it’s homemade and the entrée of choice. Top honors go to the ravioli-small pockets stuffed with spinach and topped with sausage and delicate tomato sauce. (Unhappily, the ravioli is not available at lunch.) We like the fettucini délia casa with ham, mushrooms, and cream sauce almost as well. And the seafood bellezza (available only at lunch) would be delightful if it weren’t quite so oily. Sergio’s also makes great omelets and quite respectable veal dishes The only problem is the limp salads covered in bad house dressing; opting for soup instead to accompany your entrée is always a wise decision. For dessert, the cannoli is overwhelmingly rich; a more virtuous choice is the strawberries Grand Marnier. (Suite 165. The Quadrangle. 2800 Routh. 742-3872 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2. Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations All credit cards. $$)



MEXICAN



Café Cancun. We’re happy to report that Café Can-cun has tightened up its attention to culinary detail, and the food is once again the equal of its lovely tropical surroundings Among the highlights of the imaginative menu are jicama (a crunchy apple-like appetizer), tacos filled with pork and cooked in chile ancho sauce (be sure to ask for the avocado and tomato salsas). and chicken enchiladas mole Entrees are accompanied by the best rice and-black, not pinto-beans in town Two soups have been added to the menu, a wonderful chicken-vegetable soup and a corn soup that’s a bit too reminiscent of canned creamed corn for our taste Another innovation is the lunch specials now available-at $3.45, an ideal way to sample Café Cancun’s delights. (4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Mon-Thur 11-10. Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. MC. AE. V, CB. $$)

Chiquita. With its tablecloths, candles, and white-suited waiters, Chiquita is out of the ordinary compared to most Tex-Mex places in town Therefore. it’s appropriate that Chiquita excels with its out of the ordinary specialties. It’s not that there’s anything wrong with the standard combination dinner offerings; it’s just that you can do as well or better elsewhere. But when it comes to dishes like carne asada tampico style (filet mignon with sautéed green pepper and onions) or fileté de la casa (filet mignon with garlic and hot peppers), you can’t match Chiquita’s combination of top-quality beef and skillful preparation. We’ve found that chicken and seafood specialties have not lived up to the standard of the beef dishes. But don’t miss the tortilla soup, a rich, oniony tomato broth with tortilla strips and melted white cheese. (3810 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri S Sat till 11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. AE. $$)

Escondido. Although there is also an Escondido on Maple Avenue, it is kin in name only to the Butler Street location. What tastes fresh and spicy on Butler tastes tired and bland on Maple. True, the Butler location is so sleazy in appearance that Her-rera and Guadalajara look plush in comparison. But the dedicated Tex-Mex fan will happily overlook the surroundings in order to try the fiery picante sauce, fresh tostadas, sour cream beef enchiladas, and exemplary rice and beans. (2210 Butler. 631-9912. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)



D Revisits Herrera. One can see the long lines waiting patiently outside Herrera’s Maple Avenue shack and only wonder what brings these Anglos back week after week to eat in this crowded and noisy restaurant. The answer, of course, is the food-enchiladas, tacos, and even soft tortillas that are head and sombrero above chain restaurant fare. The prices are nothing short of amazing. There are very few sit-down restaurants where three people can eat for under $12 and be bursting at the seams. After you get adjusted, the authentic Tex-Mex atmosphere adds to the dining experience. Avoid the fancy and more expensive specials. Stick to the basic Mexican dinners, numbered one through 16. especially the dinners featuring the enchiladas, although you really can’t go wrong here. Also load up on the flour tortillas. If you’re used to the cardboard-like corn tortillas of other establishments, you’ll savor Herrera’s thick, white flour tortillas like dessert. (3902 Maple. 526-9427. Mon. Wed, Thur 9-8, Fri-Sun till 10. Closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards $)



Guadalajara. If you’re into culinary hedonism, one level of nirvana is a must: plant yourself in a red leatherette booth at this raunchy-chic palace and enchilada your way into oblivion. This is truly great Tex-Mex The staple items like tamales. enchiladas, guacamole. chiles rellenos. and frijoles are all superior, as are some of the semi-esoteric Mexican dishes like chicken with mole sauce. But we’ve had enough bad experiences with some of the more expensive dishes (like carne asada) that we discourage venturing too tar from the mainstream of the menu. One of the best things about Guadalajara is its hours-the place is open till 3 am. And although after midnight it can look like a haven for Alcoholics Anonymous dropouts, Guadalajara is one of the only places in Dallas where you can get quality food after hours. (3308 Ross. 823-9340. Tue-Sun 11 -3 Closed Mon. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Mario & Alberto. The dinner ritual at this place includes a 30-minute wait that is made somewhat more pleasant by the tangy goodness of the frozen margaritas that are purveyed by the pitcher in the waiting area. The secret to this place is that Mario Leal has taken a proven Mexican menu from his other restaurant (Chiquita) and transported it intact to Preston and LBJ. Leal is literally miles ahead of his competition. North Dallas diners obviously don’t mind queuing up in crowded quarters to wait for a sample of the reliable staples like enchiladas, guacamole, tacos al carbon, and came asada. They are all essentially the same as the high-quality items you find at Chiquita. But in addition to the standard Tex-Mex, Mario & Alberto offers some more unusual delights like pescado marinero (fish filet filled with spinach and topped with oysters and shrimp), cala-bactias rellenas (zucchini stuffed with sirloin and covered with white cheese), and carnitas adobadas (thin pork strips marinated in a piquant sauce and skillet fried). (425 Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ at Preston. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30. Fri & Saf till 11. Drinks with $5 membership charge. MC. V. AE. $$)

Raphael’s. It may be that Raphael’s has slipped somewhat from its longtime position as one of Dallas’ very best Mexican restaurants, or it may be that the growing competition from ambitious upstarts has simply overtaken this established enchilada outpost. Regardless, nobody’s bothered to tell the hungry hordes constantly waiting for tables. When a second location opened on Greenville Avenue, we thought it might be the answer So tar there is no waiting at the Greenville Raphael’s, but perhaps that is because it doesn’t live up to the somewhat slipped standards of the original Raphael’s. The Greenville menu is not identical- some items, like the superb strawberry or peach sopapillas, are missing, and some, like the dry. un-derseasoned soft pork tacos. are present that aren’t available at the original. Therefore, we still recommend the Raphael’s on McKinney, if you have the stomach to wait. Once seated, head for the specialty dishes, many accompanied by wonderful pico de gallo. Two sure bets are the “authentic combination plate.” an assortment of specialties, and the tacos al carbon. (3707 McKinney. 521-9640 Mon-Fri 11:30-10:30. Satnoon-10. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. All credit cards. $$)



MIDDLE EASTERN



Khalil’s Beirut. If you can negotiate the obstacle course that is Belt Line Road in the vicinity of Quorum Plaza, you will be well rewarded. Khalil’s Beirut is definitely the top of the line for fans of Middle Eastern food. Its competition admittedly is limited: The Pita Place is equally fine but has a more limited menu, and Hedary’s in Fort Worth, though good, is not up to Khalil’s quality. Khalil’s is a more formal place than either of its competitors. On Friday nights there is a belly dancer (in case you require entertainment to induce you to venture into the unfamiliar territory of mahshi warak areesh, malfouf mahshi. and baba ganouj). Order the “extra special” appetizer tray, and you will get the aforementioned and 10 or so more dishes; at $14,95. this is more than enough for an entire meal tor two-and the best introduction we know of to Lebanese food Other choices include Lebanese lamb and beef dishes and. for the unadventurous. standard steak and seafood entrees. (Quorum plaza. Belt Line west of Dallas Parkway. 934-3100 Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. C/osed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)

The Pita Place. After a hiatus following its former downtown tenancy, the Pita Place has reopened in North Dallas. The food is still fresh, tasty, and inexpensive; and now the surroundings are pleasant and bright. (Its previous incarnation could be charitably described as dingy.) We can think of no better lunch for a sweltering day than a falafel sandwich (fresh pocket bread stuffed with deep-fried ground chickpeas and fava beans with lettuce and tomato), perhaps accompanied by a cool tabouli salad (chopped cracked wheat, chopped parsley, tomatoes, cucumber, and mint, all marinated in lemon juice and olive oil) and hummus (a dip of chickpeas and sesame seed paste seasoned with lemon and garlic). The pita burger of ground sirloin with chopped onions and parsley is, however, not unlike munching on a charcoal briquet. Steering clear of the acrid chocolate mousse is also advisable. (The Corner Shopping Center. 9820 N Central Expy at Walnut Hill. 987-3226. Open daily 11 am-10prn. AE. MC. V. DC. $)



NATURAL FOODS



Marvins Garden. If natural food restaurants bring Annie Hall visions of plates of mashed yeast to mind, take heart. Marvins Garden offers a variation on two common restaurant themes pizza and Mexican food “Pizza,’’ you say, “That’s junk food.’’ Could Mr Jim’s pizza, a garden of fresh vegetables and cheese on a whole wheat crust be considered junk food? Mexican food, however, is the real forte of this intimate café. Starting with outstanding creamy garlic dressing over a dinner salad, we had a most satisfying meal Quesadillas filled with flavorful soft white cheese are covered with a ranchera sauce Cheese enchiladas come filled with the same cheese and are covered with bean chili sauce or ranchera sauce, which we prefer. Good Mexican food can usually be judged by the quality of the rice and beans it keeps. We weren’t disappointed here. The black beans, though short on garlic, were well prepared, and the brown rice was the best we’ve tasted. (6033 Oram at Skillman. 824-5841. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri till 11, Sat & Sun 11-11. No reservations. MC. V, DC. CB. $)



ORIENTAL



August Moon. As the lines at dinner time attest, North Dallas has an appetite for high-quality Chinese fare. Large and lavishly decorated, August Moon fills the bill with a vast menu featuring specialties of Taiwan. Young Chow. Shanghai. Peking, Szechuan. Hunan, and Canton. Soups are nothing special here, but the pu pu tray of assorted appetizers makes for a good start. Mongolian barbecue (marinated sirloin, pork, and lamb stir-fried with vegetables) and kung-po chicken are two of the best choices for main courses. Shredded pork in garlic sauce, diced chicken with almond, and Shanghai steak are less successful. Portions are generous, and service is extremely fast and accommodating. (15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11-10:15; Fri & Sat 4-10:45; Sun noon-10:30. Reservations. Bar by membership. AE, MC, V, CB. $$)

Bo Bo China. No matter that this place apparently had the same interior decorator as Don Carter’s All-Star Bowling Lanes; on food alone, this may be the best Chinese restaurant in Dallas. We’ve yet to find a disappointment on a rather massive menu. If you want haute cuisine, try the excellent Peking duck (which must be ordered a day in advance). If you want a fast but tasty lunch, try one of the half dozen lunch specials, which at $2.75 a plate, have to rank among the best buys in the city. Most of the main dishes include a superb wonton soup although we suggest trying the sizzling rice soup, which is even better. Another standout is the “pot stickers,” Chinese-style dumplings filled with pork. Servings are large enough that you’re likely to need to take part of the meal home, which management is happy to facilitate. (10630 Church Rd at LBJ Fwy. 349-2411. Daily 11-10. Setups available, brown-bagging allowed. No reservations. AE, MC, V. $)

Hunan. Selecting from the large menu of this restaurant specializing in the spicy cuisine of the province of Hunan is like throwing darts: You may hit. and leave thinking you have dined splendidly, or you may miss, and leave feeling thoroughly dispirited. On one recent visit, our food wasn’t even on the dart board. Appetizers were among the worst we’ve ever had. (Entrée portions are extremely generous, so appetizers can easily be skipped.) Diced chicken with peanuts was tender, with crunchy peanuts, but the pieces of gristle were unforgivable. River Shang pork was blandly forgettable. On another visit, we were in luck. Shredded pork with garlic sauce was inspired, with black mushrooms, chopped scallions, and julienned water chestnuts in a delicious, garlicky sauce. Lake Tung-Tin shrimp was tasty, although we could have done without the limp, overcooked celery. (5214 Greenville at Lovers Ln. 369-4578. Sun-Thur 11:30-10:45, Fri & Sat till 11:45. MC, V, AE. $$)

Monkok. Monkok won’t change your life, but it of‧’ers reasonably priced Chinese food thai, if you order wisely, can be very good. We tried the pu pu tray of assorted appetizers and found the butterfly shrimp and egg rolls to be the best components Both can and should be ordered a la carte, in order to skip the overcooked rumaki. tough spare ribs, and too chewy cho cho beef also on the pu pu tray. Won-’on and hot and sour soups are respectable versions; skip the egg drop, which is exceptionally : and. Among the entrées. Monkok Delight (juicy chicken, shrimp, and ham with mushrooms and vegetables). Chicken with peanuts (marked with a star as hot and spicy) is a more passable but pallid version than usual; it doesn’t earn its star. Cantonese roast duck is a tasty version. Only pork lo mem with vegetables and homemade noodles is irredeemable; it’s greasy and, worse, a strange orange color. (2150 N Collins Blvd. Richardson. 644-0404 Lunch daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-70, Fri & Sat 5-11. MC. V. AE, DC. $$)

Sakura. What with the geisha dancing in the tatami room, the schmaltzy piano bar music downstairs battling the koto music playing in the rest of the place, and the slashing, clanging, and sizzling of the chefs upstairs, the diner at Sakura feels transported to a three-ring Japanese circus. The only trouble is if you want a table at a restaurant, not a seat in the big top. But for feats of skill and daring, the sushi chef didn’t disappoint us. With the deft hands of a master. he sliced perfect pieces of impeccably fresh raw seafood and served them atop rice. We were disappointed only by most of the more standard Japanese offerings, with the exception of chicken kara-aga, deep-fried sesame-coated morsels. The sushi bar is definitely the center ring at this circus; the side shows are best avoided. (7402 Greenville near Walnut Hill. 361-9282. Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Sawatdee. Being second in a field of two can mean number one is too firmly entrenched to be overtaken. Or. in the case of Sawatdee. Dallas’ second Thai restaurant, it can mean you’re simply not in number one’s league. Comparisons with Siam may be unfair, but they are inevitable. Most of the news is discouraging; Although the skewered, broiled pork appetizer here is spicy, the accompanying sauce is floury. Deep-fried crab claws tasted frozen and resembled mutant corny dogs. Entrées tend to be pallid: we tasted shrimp with chili paste, roast duck country-style, chicken with hot sauce, and fried pineapple rice; while nothing was bad, nothing was memorable. There are some encouraging signs: fine, unusual calamari salad and lively hot and sour soup with shrimp. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138 Daily: 11:30-11:30. Lunch special Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. AE, MC, V. $$)

Siam. At its best. Siam offers the bright, clear tastes of Thai food at prices that afford extensive reconnaissance; even at less than its best, it offers more than passable versions of standard Oriental dishes. But it is foolish to eat anything other than the extraordinary Thai dishes available here. Since the help is Thai and the dinner menu extensive and confusing, it is wise to order by number. Among the best choices are 103 (marinated and broiled skewered pork with peanut sauce and cucumber salad), 110 (hot and sour soup tangy with lemongrass), 127 (nee noodles sautéed with pork, shrimp, and a multitude of aromatic ingredients). 137 (a rosy chicken curry with coconut milk, bamboo shoots, and fresh mint), and 154 (perfectly juicy roast duck). The location and decor are funky, and service is often slow, but Siam’s food is well within the irresistible range. A lunch menu offers more limited choices. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482 Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun MC. V, AE, DC. $)

Szechuan. This oasis in the Lemmon Avenue fast-food strip offers reliably good, if never great. Szechuan and standard Chinese dishes. Lunch specials (served Monday through Saturday), at $2.50 to $3.75, are bargains, and there’s an unusually large number to choose from. Soups are not a strong point here, with crab meat and corn rice soup the best choice Main dish standouts include shredded pork with garlic sauce, moo shi pork, chicken with cashew nuts, and the chicken and shrimp combination. Sliced beef with orange flavor, however, tastes too strongly of anise for most western tastes. (4117 Lemmon near Douglas 521-6981 Sun-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11:30. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Yunnan Dynasty. By virtue of its illustrious pedigree, Yunnan Dynasty is an automatic contender for the title of Dallas’ Best Chinese Restaurant As a sibling of the Austin restaurant of the same name, Yunnan Dynasty does its heritage proud. Unlike most Chinese restaurants in town, where you can get good soup, appetizers, or main dishes, here you can have an entire meal that is peerless. Egg rolls are delicate and fresh, and soups are a no-miss proposition, though the mellow crab meat and corn soup is particularly noteworthy When it comes to the entrées, the only caveat is simple: order the spicy dishes marked with a box on the menu. The standout is steamed whole fresh fish with garlic and black bean sauce. This is a low-cal dinner that Weight Watchers never dreamed of The contemporary surroundings are a pleasant change from the standard Chinese restaurant decor. (9100 Park Lane in Caruth Plaza. 739-1110. Sun-Thur 11:30-11:30, Fri & Sat 11:30-1 am AE. V, MC. $$)



SEAFOOD



Charley’s Seafood Grill. Amazing, these Addison eateries A year ago Charley’s was a vacant lot. Now it’s a first-class seafood emporium complete with everything from shrimp to swordfish on a skewer. And. as is the case with many of the new establishments along Belt Line Road, Charley’s has developed an instant following: throngs of Izod-clad diners eager to sample some of the 27 kinds of imported beer (served at arctic temperatures) and munch iced shrimp while waiting a customary 15 to 30 minutes for a table. In truth, the fish is not on quite as high a par as the ambience. Charley’s is smartly decorated in what the designers are doubtless calling “Old New England Lighthouse Contemporary.” And while we found the selection of charcoal-broiled fish (red snapper, swordfish steak, trout) to be excellent, some of the fried offerings like the shrimp and oysters were simply so-so. The one negative is Charley’s chowder, truly bland on numerous samplings. The overall dining experience, however, is definitely worth the minimal investment in time and money. (5348 Belt Line Rd. 934-8501. Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, DC, V, AE. $$)



D Revisits Crazy Crab. With appetizers like “Topless Oysters” and “Crackin’ Smackin’ Good,” and entrées called “The Big Cheese” and “The Livin’ Stoney End,” Crazy Crab isn’t serious when it bills itself as “a serious seafood restaurant.” This is the kind of place that seems franchised even though it isn’t yet. It’s a family place, a restaurant where you can find good Dungeness crab from the West Coast when it’s in season. The steamed Alaskan King crab legs are an old favorite of ours, but we’ve had some less satisfactory experiences with the other specialties. The stone crab claws we sampled had turned fibrous from the freezer, and the crab chowder was bland The deviled crabs overstuffed with what they call “a simply satanic filling” were pretty hellish. But the things to avoid at all costs here are the lobster tails served broiled or breaded. (3211 Oak Lawn at Hall. 522-5310. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri till 11. Sat 5- 11, Sun 5-10. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)



Fausto’s. Fausto’s is a restaurant of nice touches: There’s marbled black and rye bread toasted with Parmesan cheese that arrives before the menu; homemade pear sorbet perched atop an orange half clears your palate before the main course and fresh strawberries stuffed with chocolate mousse come after dessert In between, you can enjoy one of the finest meals in Dallas. if you navigate the menu carefully. The best catch is the poached salmon steak topped with a luscious green peppercorn sauce. And be sure to sink your teeth into the shark gumbo. Frog legs were tender and sweet, swordfish steak juicy, and duckling with lingonberry sauce crisp and crackling. But the seas turned rough with the bago bago, a seafood potpourri in a cloying sauce, and we got mired down in the soufflés. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11: Fri & Sat till midnight; Sun brunch: 10:30-3 All credit cards $$$$)

Jozef’s. Jozef’s is to Dallas seafood restaurants what Calvin Klein is to jeans-chic, expensive, and when on. absolutely top of the line. It’s difficult to imagine a simpler yet more elegant meal than smoked freshwater trout with horseradish sauce, followed by charbroiled fish-perhaps scrod or swordfish-with fresh strawberries and cream for dessert. Jozef’s also serves an outstanding ceviche (raw fish marinated in lime juice and spices) and an even better boiled Maine lobster, seasoned only with lemon and butter. The fancier dishes, on the other hand, are less dependable. The sauce on our shrimp Pernod was bland and gluey, and our bouillabaisse (a fish stew) was unseasoned and overstocked with a peculiarly tasteless variety of sea scallop, an odd turn since Jozef’s serves excellent scallops provencale. Forget the turtle soup. The hosts are gracious and obviously run a tight ship because the service is quick and cordial. But the wine list is still too aristocratic, with the majority of bottles in the $15-$25 range. (2719 McKinney 826-5560 Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; Dinner: Daily 6-10. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



D Revisits Oyster’s. A simple menu, reasonable waiting times, and an enthusiastic staff make Oyster’s an oasis in the fast-paced neon jungle that has sprouted in the Belt Line-Dallas Parkway corridor Oyster’s doesn’t rely on any menu or decor gimmicks to keep its regular customers, just promptly prepared seafood that lives up to the menu’s boast that the food is “served only when available fresh.” Interestingly, the filet of flounder and fresh Boston scrod filet are preferable to the restaurant’s namesake, although the fresh oysters on the half-shell are no slouches. Avoid the lackluster shrimp, but make sure you sample the eggplant or zucchini appetizers. The staff surprisingly takes as much care in preparing the hamburgers and sandwiches as the seafood. The hamburgers are big and juicy, and the bread is fresh, a rarity in a seafood restaurant. Unfortunately, the desserts taste like the Sara Lee variety, and the beer and wine options are uninspired. (4580 Belt Line. 386-0122. Mon-Thur 11:30-10, Fri till 11, Sat 5-11. Sun 5-10. MC, V, AE. $$)



Ratcliffe’s. Although it’s been open less than a year, Ratcliffe’s may well have earned the title of best seafood restaurant in Dallas The menu is easily as impressive as the handsome surroundings. Shrimp rémoulade, Dungeness crab, shrimp and crab in white wine sauce, scampi Mediterranean, lemon sole, salmon with hollandaise-all are unsurpassed. Only the tasteless fisherman’s stew and the laughable house salad (a vinegary quartered head of romaine lettuce) disappoint. Don’t miss the apple hazelnut tart for dessert. (1901 McKinney. 748-7480. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 4:30-10, Fri-Sat 4:30-11. No reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

S & D Oyster Company. The line is usually long; the dining room is noisy; the desserts are consistently bad. If these minor hitches will keep you away from S& 0, that’s fine with its fans, who swelter, freeze, ana get drenched, depending on the season, waiting in line You can find places where it costs more, you can find places that are more tony, but you can’t find a better plate of fresh fish. Even fried shrimp, the child’s greasy delight, was the best we have ever had Boiled shrimp and red snapper are also good choices. And the oyster loaf sandwich, though too large to eat easily, was worth the battle, (Ask to have it cut in two.) The dining area is comfortable and charming, with waiters and a lone waitress bustling about in traditional black and white uniforms These people give S& D class. However, nothing so complimentary can be said of the desserts. There was something fishy about the ice cream, and the cheesecake could have been retitled cheese and egg cake. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat till 11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC. V. $$)



Newcomer: Seascape Inn. The owners of Old Warsaw, Les Saisons, Mario’s, and Arthur’s have accrued this admirable addition to the Dallas seafood scene housed in what used to be an unfortunate place: The Baked Potato. The best place to sit for lunch is by the geranium-garnished north windows. At night, the church pew booths with lace partitions are softly lit and romantic. We’ve yet to be disappointed by a meal here, and the service is helpful to the point of being self-effacing. We did, on one occasion, find what seemed to be an excessive amount of crab “cartilage” in the crab ramequin, an appetizer made of lump crab meat and tiny mushrooms in a white sauce that otherwise seemed just fine. Other appetizers we’ve enjoyed include the seafood gumbo, New England clam chowder, baked oyster Seascape in a tomato sauce, and the ceviche. The rémoulade served with a generous serving of lump crab meat seemed more like a tiresome Thousand Island than what it was supposed to be, but the other sauces were all quite nice. As entrées, we’ve sampled the salmon in puff pastry, sautéed sea trout with lemon and capers, cape scallops in lemon and butter, and a lovely fried flounder. The management is still shuffling entrées from the lunch menu to dinner, so you can expect to see some variation in the daily specials and listed selections. Everything is light enough here to find room for dessert, and the homemade pies are excellent. (7736 Greenville. 363-3537. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2, Dinner: 6-11. Closed Mon Reservations recommended. AE, V, MC. $$$)



Turtle Cove. Here is a restaurant with a gimmick that is simple and valid. Turtle Cove serves fresh Texas seafood cooked over mesquite wood (a roomful of which deliciously scents the air). Steak is also available, but coming here for steak is like going to élan for a deep philosophical discussion. Mesquite-grilled whole fresh fish is available daily; when we visited, there was perfectly prepared salmon. The fried seafood platter, with fish, shrimp, and oysters in beer batter was also commendable With entrées, you get two “extras” from the menu. The best one is the grilled vegetables (zucchini, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, and onions). The fresh-cut fries and sautéed mushrooms are also tasty. Pass, however, on the iceberg lettuce salad and dull wild rice Don’t miss the superb strawberry shortcake for dessert All in all, a welcome addition to the growing ranks of good seafood restaurants in town .(2731 W Northwest Hwy near European Crossroads. 350-9034 Daily: 11-11. MC. V, AE. $$)



STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.



Hoffbrau. Nestled in the center of the fern-bar belt, Hoffbrau is a welcome haven for the carnivore We notice, with some delight, the absence of any healthy green stuff: no bizarre presentations of fried zucchini or the infamous fresh spinach salad. The Hoffbrau sits directly across from Highland Park Cafeteria. The parking is the worst, the atmosphere one of the best. Smacking of Austin, the interior offers rough-cut wood beams, neon beer signs, and Texana to the tenth power including stacks of long-neck boxes full of return deposit bottles. The menu touts a top-end price of $9.95 for a 24-ounce cut of meat as big as a hubcap and goes down to a chopped sirloin for $3.95 These dishes come with giant-cut steak fries and a no-nonsense salad. The steaks are pan-broiled in a lemon butter sauce that evades detection until you dip your sliced white bread in it. (3205 Knox at McKinney. 559-2680. Mon-Sat 11-11, Sun 5-11. All credit cards $$)

Kobe Steaks. This plush Japanese steak house offers combinations of steak, seafood, and/or chicken. Beef is the featured attraction, and it is of the highest quality. Dinners come with delicious beef broth, a piquant shrimp appetizer, and smooth green tea as well as salad and rice. The seating arrangements, with groups of diners around the surface where the cook chops and sautés, offer all the privacy of a bus station. (15000 Quorum Plaza at Belt Line oft Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600 934-8150. Lunch:Mon-Fri 11:30-2;Dinner:Sun-Thur5-11, Fri& Sat till midnight. All credit cards. $$$)

Ruth’s Chris Steak House. The stunned looks on the faces of your fellow diners mean that they’ve opened the menu. The unprepossessing no-frills steakhouse appearance of Ruth’s make the prices an unexpected shock. The entrées (sirloin strip, filet, rib eye, and porterhouse) are $17 (and no cheaper at lunch). With that, you get bread. Period. No salad, no potato, no vegetable. Those will run you from $2.25 to $3.75 each. One keeps finding new financial affronts: You want Roquefort dressing? That will be another dollar. And this is to dress a characterless iceberg lettuce salad. The steaks, pan-broiled in butter, are good, but not good enough to justify the dent that a meal at Ruth’s will put in your bank balance. (6940 Greenville. 691-6940. Daily: 11:30-11:30. All credit cards. $$$)



FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS



Angelo’s. If Chrysler could turn out autos the way Angelo’s assembles and delivers lunch-hour sandwiches, there would be no need for a bail-out. The coordinator takes your order, dabs sauce on a bun, and spins the bun onto a precise spot in front of the cutter. The cutter loads the bun with juicy tender meat, crowns it. and passes it back to the coordinator, who wraps it without looking. The counter help hands you your sandwich, takes your money, and yells “large.” A 12-ounce frozen mug of draft Budweiser costs 65￠; a 24-ounce mug of the same costs 85￠. That’s why the counter keeps yelling “large.” There is no better barbecued beef in Fort Worth than at Angelo’s. And there are a couple of sleepers here, too, known only to the regulars. There hasn’t been a bargain around like the $1.20 hot link sandwich with sauce, pickles, and onions since the demise of the nickel Coke. And the chili (steaming in temperature but not seasoning) is the best west of Tolbert’s. (2533 White Settlement Rd. (817) 332-0357 Mon-Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

The Carriage House. This old standby offers a refreshing retreat from area steak houses that are big enough to accommodate basketball tournaments. The atmosphere in the two small crystal-laden dining rooms is not quiet, but it is relaxed nevertheless. The steaks are still the safest selections, and ours were prepared exactly as ordered. The tenderloin won best of show. The South African lobster tail was indeed large, as advertised, as was the price ($21). which was not advertised. Asparagus and broccoli were fresh, crisp, and boring, the kind we used to eat to obtain permission to leave the table The sautéed mushroom appetizer was delicious, but the entry on the menu should have included a warning label alerting hungry diners that consumption of the item would involve only two bites The brandy ice, a successful blend of brandy and ice cream, is a nice winder-upper, especially lor those who have difficulty choosing between dessert and after-dinner drinks. (5136 Camp Bowie Blvd (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11, Sun 6-10; Sun brunch: 11-2. Reservations. MC. V, AE. $$$)

Cattleman’s. There are ups and downs here, but the prime steak is definitely an upper. First-time visitors are usually excited at the rustic Texas-style setting in the heart of the old Stockyards area. The restaurant exterior with its weathered facade promises a return to the days when this was the gathering point for the journey up the Chisholm Trail. But the interior is a letdown. There’s nothing much to see except for pictures of blue ribbon beeves that are displayed to document the superb quality of meat that has been devoured here. (There’s one picture of a horse that is undoubtedly displayed for some other reason.) But when the steaks arrive, all else becomes incidental. The prime cuts of rib eye and K.C. sirloin are delectable, and the 18-ounce prime boneless strip is a third-degree sin. The Saturday night service reminded us of the service on the Braniff flight to Oklahoma City: frantic and elusive. You wouldn’t miss anything if you ate nothing but steak, though the lamb fries will likely appeal to those who are psychologically attuned. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11-10:30, Sat 4:30-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Newcomer: Crystal Cactus. On the outside, this place still looks like the old Texas Hotel that it once was, but on the inside-which was gutted and completely redone-it’s strictly Hyatt Regency. It’s like walking into the chapel of the First Baptist Church and finding the galactic bar scene from Star Wars. But the Crystal Cactus, which gets its name from the etched-glass room dividers, is a pleasant repose and an admirable effort to provide quality dining in downtown Fort Worth. The service is proficient and attentive, and the offerings are attractively presented. For openers, our rock lobster salad with tarragon dressing was delicious, and the satay of beef tenderloin was equally well-prepared, yet the entrées did not prompt applause. The veal we tried was rather bland We also regretted paying $19.50 for a gummy scampi and veal fettucini that included only three scampi. Interesting luncheon specialties are featured during the week, including a spicy fisherman’s stew, replete with chunks of swordfish, red snapper, and scallops. (Hyatt Regency Hotel, 815 Main. (817) 870-1234. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2, Dinner: nightly 6-11, Sunday brunch: 10:30-2:30. Reservations. Jackets required for dinner. All credit cards. $$$)



J & J Oyster Bar. New Orleans comes to Fort Worth. At least that’s where the oysters served here come from. The fried oysters are rather small for the price ($4.75 for seven), but ours were flavorfully prepared in a very agreeable batter. The light batter doesn’t overpower the oyster, but is spicy enough to draw your attention, reminiscent of Captain Benny’s Half Shell in Houston. The best buy on the menu is the cup of “home-cooked Cajun gumbo’’ for $1.25 Ours was brimming with oysters, crab, and shrimp. A dozen oysters on the half shell, also small, cost $3.95. The location is the former site of the old Top-sy’s Cafe. If things don’t go well, they can add wheels to the tin building and haul the customers to the coast. (929 University. (817) 332-0238 Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri &Sat 11-11. No credit cards. $)



Jimmie Dip’s. Jimmie died, and tor a while, it was easy to forget this longtime Chinese restaurant. But Jimmie Dip’s is stiil in business: The food remains excellent, the service superb, and the decor unassuming and tasteful We began, of course, with fried wonton all around, and then opted for the Chinese vegetable soup. Both were supreme appetizers. Our main dish was the almond gai ding, diced white chicken meat with snow peas, water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, and mushrooms-so good, we hated sharing. Other dishes we sampled included the war sui har (breaded jumbo shrimp wrapped in bacon), the sweet and sour pork, the ginger beef, and the Jimmie Dip special, which is a mixture of chicken, chicken livers, Virginia ham, and vegetables, sautéed in chicken broth-an unlikely dish that was the best of the evening. This restaurant knows what it’s doing. (1500 S University. (817) 336-4333. Tue-Thur & Sun. 4:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 4:30-11:30. Closed Mon. No reservations MC. V. AE. $)



Joe T. Garcia’s. Joe T, Garcia s lush patio reminds us of a Mexican hotel courtyard, with its old-fashioned swimming pool and well-manicured vegetation. (Patrons are not encouraged to swim.) The obvious family connection between most of the employees and the boss, who constantly directs the help in Spanish/English, lends atmosphere you won’t find elsewhere. The Dinner (no questions, no substitutions) matched item for item the No. 1 special at every pseudo-south-of-the-border joint in the Southwest, cheese and jalapeno nachos, tacos. cheese enchiladas, refried beans, a side of guaca-mole, soft tortillas, and the usual hot sauce. To its credit, Joe T.’s is good at what it does. Everything was fresh, and portions were generous. Worth particular notice: The margaritas were strong, not too salty, and not sweet. The beauty of the surroundings is worth one visit to Joe T.’s, especially if you live in Fort Worth. But until the menu shows a little more variety, this will remain the Mexican restaurant to take your uncle from New Jersey to, not the fine addiction a Mexican restaurant can become. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Mon-Sat 11-2:15, 5-10:30 Sun 4-10- Reservations for 30 or more. No credit cards. $$)



Kincaid’s. In this grocery-cum-hamburger-stand, there’s no seating, no fountain soft drinks, and very little air conditioning. But hamburger aficionados crowd in for the right stuff: real meat; real thick, just-sliced tomatoes; generously distributed pickles that crunch resoundingly; and grilled buns. Diners sharing the counter top with us swore the other choices, including fried vegetables, catfish, salads, and cake, are just as good as the hamburgers But how anyone can muster the will to order cauliflower amid those hamburger smells is a mystery. Adding to the satisfied air of the patrons are the attentiveness and good cheer shown by the counter help and the neighborhood air of the place. 1200 meat patties a day sizzle on the grill, but there’s nothing mass-produced about the greetings regulars get. (4901 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-2881. Mon-Sat 10-6:15. Closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



London House. London House was once the place to take your wife or prom date for a big steak dinner. Times change, and so did this favorite, into a dumpy, dusty-cornered, old restaurant with unreasonably high-priced, tough steaks. However, fortune smiled upon London House and sent the former manager of Mac’s House (another fondly remembered Fort Worth steak restaurant) to help out. The improvement is enormous, from the spruced-up surroundings to the better cuts of meat. Prices have risen with the quality. The steaks and chicken we had were tender and flavorful. The crab, too, was tender and moist, unlike the dried-out lobster tails served with another diner’s steak. The soup and salad bar, always a strong point here, has gotten even better with the addition of items like watermelon chunks among the greens Avoid the broccoli, served with what looks like microwave-melted Cheez Whiz over it. London House will probably never return to its former splendor, but the food has regained its former virtues. (4475 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-4141. Mon-Thur 5:30-11 pm, Fri & Sat 5:30-midnight, Sun 5:30-10 pm. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC $$$)

Massey’s. Warning Don’t order the a la carte chicken-fried steak for lunch unless you have time for a siesta. The portions are huge, and it tastes too good to leave any behind. You won’t be distracted by frills here. The menu advises that in the interest of conservation, water will be served upon request. There are no pepper shakers: tables are stocked with the original pepper cans. At lunchtime. you get chicken-fried steak, salad, two vegetables, and homemade biscuits. The tender meat is cooked with a heavenly breading and topped with yellow creamed gravy, just the way they do it on that great spread beyond the sunset. The french fries are the kind you eat and then begrudge the lost space The assembly-line salad consists of wilted lettuce and bulk dressing. Massey’s offers seafood and Mexican dishes, but to go here for something other than chicken-fried steak would be like going to the Grand Canyon to see the chipmunks. (1805 Eighth Ave. (817) 924-8242 Daily 8 am-10pm. MC. V. $)



Newcomer: Reflections. The new Americana Hotel is trying hard to live up to its self-proclaimed “world-class” status. In our mean-derings around the establishment, we have happened upon such pleasurable indulgences as complimentary crab claws and boiled shrimp during happy hour, and mixed nuts (with no peanuts) in the lobby bar. To finance these delicacies, the hotel seems to be relying upon Reflections, its main restaurant, where entrées begin at $18 and all but two of the appetizers at $9. The coquille bonne auberge, a mixture of lobster, scallops, shrimp, and mushrooms was tasteful, but we found the sauce (which had the consistency of mashed potatoes), to be somewhat distracting. The roast duckling was about as exciting as leftover turkey and the peppercorn sauce did little to enhance it. But the filet de boeuf au poivre was a delight; the generous portions of beef were prepared precisely as ordered and enlivened by a remarkably successful marriage of cognac and pepper sauce. The accompanying snow peas-fresh, crisp, and mixed with mushrooms-were equally satisfying. The cream of asparagus was clearly the cream of the crop among the soups. And when all is said and done, save room for dessert; don’t miss the fresh blueberries flown in from France and buried in whipped cream. The focal point of the dining room is a pool with glistening mosaic tiles covered by two inches of water. The waiters get a real charge out of the occasional “sophisticated” diner who mistakes it for a dance floor. (Americana Hotel. 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30: Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-7). Sun 6-11. All credit cards. $$$)



Szechuan. Some like it hot, but Szechuan likes it hotter. The local Hunan/Szechuan boom has led to some inevitable backsliding in seasoning, as some restaurants slip in a pinch of Lawry’s seasoning salt to appease the more delicate American palate. Not so at Szechuan, where “hot and spicy” means exactly what it says. Our chicken with garlic sauce and shredded beef Szechuan style arrived smoking, and superbly prepared. The Szechuan lamb was equally good, and even the broccoli in oyster sauce, ordinarily a fairly bland dish, had a little extra zip. Even though Szechuan has a large menu, the chef is able to accommodate individual preferences without difficulty. If you want moo shi chicken rather than pork, or a bit more Szechuan pickle in your sautéed green beans, just ask. (5712 Locke Ave. off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 738-7300. Mon-Thur 11:30-10. Fri & Sat till 11. Sun 5-10. Reservations for 5 or more. MC, V. AE. $$)