THE GREAT TEXAS steak houses that were once matters of course, that were no more affected than the wiry, sun-and wind-dried men who frequented them, are here no longer. Their decline has been like that of the beautiful woman who, unwilling to leave well enough alone, so thickly layers her face with makeup that her original charm is made dull. In both cases, the resulting contrived beauty is visibly strained.
During our visits this month to as many Dallas steak establishments as our vascular systems could stand, we found plenty of good, juicy beef. But, with a few exceptions, our foolish -but native -preconceptions of what steak Texana should be were smitten. We learned that what we expected is apparently unavailable. But much of what was available was a pleasant compromise.
Many Dallas steak restaurants are as pseudo-Texan as those we scoff at in the East, and not nearly as Texan as one we’ve visited (Dreisbach’s) in Grand Island, Neb. At the standardized Dallas steak houses we were pleased -if that -but never ecstatic. Our overwhelming consensus is that serving ethereal beef is not what these steak house chains do naturally.
By standardized steak houses we mean franchised businesses such as Steak and Ale, Bonanza and Old San Francisco Steak House, to name but a few. The tables and chairs are seemingly rough-hewn by the same restaurant supply house, the one that sold them the bulk shipments of wagon wheels and oil lanterns. These restaurants epitomize Eastern concepts of lexana, but on the whole are dependably adequate. The meat is usually of moderate quality and is rarely bad, but as far as we know is never great. Standardized steak houses are perfect for family meals and easily impressed high school dates. We’ve visited the Railhead twice and were elated on our first try, thinking we’d found a trendy steak spot with truly great, tender, well-cooked steak. But on our second stop, the steak was leathery-dry and tough. Service, salads and side dishes were good both times.
But the meat (so to speak) of the matter at hand must be to critique the Dallas steak houses with reputations for serving superior beef, then find those (if they exist) that should be given such reputations.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House is the first stop on our list. Certainly Ruth’s is one of the few places in Dallas that serves aged prime beef. With two other locations in Houston and New Orleans, it is obvious that the corn-fed beef Ruth’s serves pleases customers. Regulars know the beef tastes different from that served in other restaurants because of its age. It is richer beef, a sort that is becoming less and less available. Ruth’s may represent the end of an era as unaged beef becomes more popular. The era may end simply because it is unaffordable. Only three of the four people in our luncheon party placed an order for steaks; the fourth ordered a shrimp cocktail. Our $103.76 tab left us with indigestion and the undeniable feeling that Ruth’s was strictly an expense-account venture. The meat is good and rich, but is not devoid of gristle. Diners were advised to hold their napkins in front of them to shield their clothes from the still-spattering garlic butter sauce in which the steaks are cooked. The tiled floor and Denny’s-outfitted waitresses lend no atmosphere; the fresh-from-Skaggs-like bread and Stouffer’s-style spinach au gratin were no help.
Calluaud’s Guy Calluaud’s just-off-the-boat French accent makes it obvious that he thinks the age-old phrase “burn me a steak” is what Joan of Arc must have muttered to her captors. You won’t find dirty things like charcoal or hickory in Guy’s kitchen. His steak Parisien, a carefully pan-fried tenderloin, is simply one of the best steaks in Dallas. If you have to use a knife to cut your steak, the chef feels he has failed. Guy surrounds his steak with another unusual twist for Dallas, his own continental-style french fries. There are none better in the city.
The Enclave is a continental restaurant that, if it lives up to its name, “adheres to its own standards and customs, regardless of what may be the prevailing manner of the surrounding country.” Here our tab was less than at Ruth’s, yet our meal was served in plush elegance amid crystal and gleaming silver. Our filet was a bit dry, but was very good. The pepper steak flambé was tastefully presented, as was the lightly breaded veal Oscar. We were only disappointed by the house vegetables. The service was attentive and the strawberry cheesecake with whipped cream ended the meal nicely.
Kobe Steaks is as trendily Japanese as some of the other restaurants are store-bought Texan. But the beef here was some of the best we’ve had in Dallas. The suki-yaki and hibachi steaks that were cooked at our table were lean and tender and the vegetables and rice were equally good. Our young, friendly and fast-with-the-knife chef apparently spoke little English, but was quite a showman -he turned off all the lights around our table so we could see the fire when he flamed our meat. The word “kobe” suggests the ultimate in the choicest beef, according to the menu, which states: “Each day the cattle are fed sake and beer to help stimulate their appetites. They are massaged daily with sake to distribute their fat evenly and keep their muscles firm but not tough.” If our meat was any measure of this method’s merit, the sake did the trick.
Cattlemen’s restaurants opened in Arlington (in 1964) and Dallas (in 1958), but neither is comparable to the original Fort Worth location, which opened in 1947. Although we were advised to go to the revered Fort Worth location, we were stubbornly faithful to Dallas and ended our dinner disappointed. The beef was slow in coming and was overcooked. The cuts were good and tasty, but a little dry. Here we had a green crisp salad with a good house dressing, but the worst rolls on our entire tour. Our waitress commented that “when there are no conventions in town, the place is a ghost town.” When we visited there couldn’t have been a Shriner within miles. This is the place to bring out-of-towners looking for old-time Texas, but save yourself some embarrassment; make sure a convention is in town before you go.
Hoffbrau, located on Knox at McKin-ney, served us two 12-ounce rib eyes for $8.95 each. They arrived in a pool of lemon butter with fried cubed potatoes and plain white bread. Here the atmosphere may be more Austinesque than Tex-ana, but whatever you call it, it’s a success. As if to prove what we instinctively knew, seated at the table adjacent to ours were four heavily-drawling Texans who had obviously had their share of steak. They enjoyed Hoffbrau just as much as we citified Texans did, and that’s always a good sign. Our meal was huge, but so palatable and inexpensive that we were in the mood for dessert. Our waitress said they served no sweets and suggested we go two doors down to Haagen-Dazs for ice cream.
Kirby’s, located in an unlikely neon-litbuilding on lower Greenville, was, withouta doubt, a steak house we’d like to frequent. The establishment was opened byJ.G. Kirby in 1924 as the Pig Stand Co.Inc., with an advertising motif that promised, “The sign of the pig points out theroad to health.” Kirby’s became a steakhouse in the Fifties; some of the motherlywaitresses have worked there since then.We inhaled a blue-ribbon filet and asirloin strip the waitress recommended.Both were juicy and tender and servedwith a salad and plump baked potato. Thesalad was less than exciting and the applepie was frozen, but when you’re in a carnivorous mood, beef is all that matters.When we go back to Kirby’s it won’t be fora romantic candlelit dinner or an intimateconversation. (The decor was 1950-mod;the clientele was Don Carter chic.) Whenwe go back, our motives will be pure:We’ll want steak.
RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS
These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.
These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.
The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.
$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.
$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.
$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $15 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.
$$$$ Very expensive.
Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.
Credit card notations: MC/MasterCard, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diners Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.
DISCOVERIES
(Serendipitous Experiences From Off the Beaten Path)
Harthomp & Moran Natural Foods. The “Amazing Avocado and Cheese Sandwich” ($2.95) served at this health food store’s juice bar is not so much amazing as it is just big and good. Onions, mushrooms, natural salts and seasonings are sprinkled over bean sprouts, which are then piled so high over melted Monterey Jack cheese ana avocado spread that you’ll need a shoehorn to fit the first bite into your mouth. The service at the juice bar is unbearably slow at noon, but no one ever said health food was supposed to be fast. And we wish they’d expand the serving hours. (1923 Greenville. 824-1740. Mon-Fri 10:30-3. Sat 10-5. Sun noon-5 MC, V.$)
Our Place. If you are a closet Caruso or a Walter Mitty Manilow, perhaps Our Place is your place. Where else can you step behind the microphone and sing your heart out to a live (if somewhat small) audience for the price of a Budweiser? Much to our surprise, multiple visits here have shown us that most of those who step from the audience to grasp their little moment in the 50-watt spotlight don’t sound half bad. Perhaps that’s because Helen Bloget, the blind woman who plays piano from 9 p.m. until 2 a.m. nightly, is an adroit accompanist and a good enough singer to take the slack out of the program after some true no-talent has stumbled his way through a Sinatra medley. Some patrons bring saxophones or trumpets and turn the place into a true Ted Mack extravaganza. There’s even a small dance floor. Our Place offers a limited assortment of snacks, including a microwave pizza that is straight barroom material, but rather tasty after a few vodkas and a version or two of Strangers in the Night. (7612 Lemmon at Lovers Ln. 351-9213. Mon-Sat noon-2 am. Closed Sun. No credit cards. $)
CONTINENTAL
Café Royal. The surroundings are as exquisite as the Mozart played by the pianist on duty during dinner. As for the food, scallops in pepper sauce are a fine opener, and a better choice than the thin, too-briny lobster soup. Classic entrees like sirloin with béarnaise sauce are safe bets; but the more adventurous nouvelle cuisine-inspired choices are the point here: among them, flavorful duckling supreme with mustard cream sauce and tender, piquant veal steak with lime butter. Minor shortcomings are dull salads, limp vegetables (which, at $3.50 a la carte should taste as good as they look), and occasionally burnt coffee. Service can be very slow. But all is forgiven with the extraordinarily refreshing strawberry bavaroise. (Plaza of the Americas, 650 N Pearl. 747-7222. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-3; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 6:30-11. Jackets required for men. All credit cards. $$$$)
Calluaud’s. Calluaud’s is open for lunch, and that’s good news for connoisseurs of class, since the place effectively defines class for Dallas restaurants. The lovely terra-cotta and cream-colored surroundings and the service are as quietly elegant as always. And the food continues to hold its own. While the entrees are never less than good, it is in the areas of appetizers and desserts that Calluaud’s truly shines. Two equally fine openers are scallops in white wine and cream sauce and mellow tomato soup that banishes all memories of the Campbell’s version. To finish, you can’t go wrong with any of the souffles or fruit tarts. (2679 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat seatings from 6-7 and at 9:30. Closed Sun. Reservations only. MC, V, AE. $$$$)
The Chimney. We found we’d been underestimating this understated place. While the service was slow and the appetizers unappetizing, the entrees were, in a word, wonderful. We began with the appetizer of the house-a melange of crab, scallops and white fish in a crepe topped with hollan-daise-and found it heavy and dull. Our escargot à la bourguignonne arrived overcooked to the point of being almost burnt. These were followed by salads in the pungent dressing of the house, a light and clear Italian that was very good. After a considerable wait, the main course arrived and we were humbled. Since 10 of the 18 listed entrees are veal dishes, we expected the veal forestiere to be good; it was better than that. The brandy, white wine and cream sauce enhanced with real morels seemed the perfect companion to the buttery slivers of meat underneath. And the Rehsteak Chimney-tourne-dos from Montana venison-was breathtakingly tender and the kind of thing you find yourself talking about for days afterward. At lunch, The Chimney seems to become a ladies’ place where bridge-club-bish meals are prepared as though the chef is distracted by the preparation of evening offerings. We enjoyed the chicken Marco Polo and New England scrod, but the light broth laced with sherry that appeared unannounced beforehand was our favorite touch. (Willow Creek Center. 9739 N Central at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10:30, Sun 6-10. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Ewald’s. Less pretentious and flashy than most other continental restaurants in Dallas, Ewald’s ranks in the highest echelon when it comes to the quality of its food. Those willing to forgo the standard continental fixtures-tuxedo-clad French waiters and brass candelabra-will find treasures of tenderloin and veal awaiting them. One of the standouts on the menu is the tournedos St. Moritz (beef tenderloin with artichoke hearts, béarnaise and tomato con-casse with sautéed mushrooms). We also found the veal steak “au moulin” (veal sautéed with mushrooms, cognac and cream) to be up to its usual tasty excellence. But the star of the menu continues to be the veal Pagallo (veal stuffed with Canadian bacon and Swiss cheese, covered with a piquant sour cream sauce). Ewald’s has a credible pepper steak and a respectable Chateaubriand; but the beet takes a back seat to some of the house specialties like shrimp du chef (broiled shrimp in a delicious barbecue-like sauce), which is available in either appetizer portions or as an entree, or the snapper bonne femme (served in a white wine sauce with mushrooms). Desserts are superb, especially the Black Forest cake, strawberries Romanoff or the cream caramel. (5415 W Lovers Ln. 357-1622. Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat till 11. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC. V, AE. $$$)
The Grape. Everyone loves The Grape, but the people who seem to love it most are lovers. This is a great place to propose marriage by candlelight. The atmosphere is also conducive to conversations about bad poetry or good dance. You’ll overhear people confessing that their fathers have intimidated them all their lives or that they’ve been painting in acrylics on smaller canvases for the past three years. In other words, this is the best of the “thinking people’s ” places; it’s a mecca for hungry degree-carrying intellectuals and their emotional basket-case friends on their way out to New Mexico. The people waiting on tables are young, bright and probably capable of living lives far more fascinating than your own. And the food is excellent. The menu varies with the season and the chef’s whims. Quiche Lorraine is a staple, as is homemade mushroom soup ana soft, buttery Boston lettuce dinner salads. We’ve tried a variety of chicken, scallop and pasta dishes recently, and all were well-proportioned and well-presented. The pates are consistently noteworthy. The only problem we’ve had is with the tape deck. The last time we were there we heard Pachelbel’s Canon in D three times. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 8230133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 6-1. AE, MC, V. $$) Jean Claude. The only bad thing about eating at Jean Claude is the demands it places on one’s short-term memory. There is no menu; instead, the waiter recites for you first the appetizers, then the entrees and finally the desserts that are available. Given that there are often 10 or more entree choices, you may feel exhausted by the time your drinks arrive. But once you’ve ordered, all is well, with Jean Claude himself chopping and sautéing in the open-air kitchen. For appetizers, we’ve enjoyed the scallops in cream and garlic sauce, the salmon mousse and the warm crab meat and lobster salad. Only the pates have disappointed. Jean Claude is particularly successful-and imaginative-with fish entrees, among them swordfish with grapefruit sauce and poached trout wrapped in lettuce. For dessert, you can’t go wrong with the intensely chocolate mousse or the fruit tarts. (2404 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Tue-Sat seatings at 6 and 9. Reservations only. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Jennivine. Thank goodness Jennivine is only “a little bit of England,” or it would be without its lovely selection of French wines, cheeses from various countries and patés. A combination plate of cheese and pate makes a good lunch. Try the English Cheddar or double Gloucester, a Cheddar flavored with chives and spices. The cheeses are always served at the proper temperature and are never chilled into tastelessness. We had a good cold cucumber soup and a spinach salad that had too many sprouts for most people’s tastes. The dinner menu varies according to the fresh seafood that is available and is written on a blackboard. We had tender sea scallops cooked with mushrooms, olives and onions The crab meat imperial was too bland, but a filet of sole with fresh dill was just right. A side dish of mashed potatoes flavored with nutmeg was also good. The house white burgundy was excellent and modestly priced by the glass or bottle. In the evening, a guitarist played softly, sometimes accompanied by a skillful penny whistle player. Service is friendly and casual and sometimes English-accented. English bottled beer is also available. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sal 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
L’Ambiance. This may or may not be in the ranks of the best continental cuisine in town, but it is definitely the best you’ll ever eat in a converted gas station. Inside the uninspiring exterior is a first-rate restaurant that could well be characterized as full-service. The hosts greet patrons at the door as if welcoming house guests. And although the surroundings are standard cut-glass-and-starched-linen, the atmosphere is easy. Salads are impeccable, and soups are fresh and flavorful. Of the entrees we tried, we especially liked the tender medallions of veal with mushroom puree and the pepper-sauced filet mignon flamed with cognac (an exception to our rule of avoiding flamed dishes, which tend to be long on flash and short on flavor). The pastry selection is varied and gorgeous. (2408 Cedar Springs. 748-1291. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat 6-11. All credit cards. $$$)
La Vieille Varsovie. The Old Warsaw is in danger of becoming a restaurant in which food no longer holds center stage. The waiters serve with flair and theatricality, and for the first time in many years, we heard Malaguena played on the piano. But something is wrong in the kitchen. In two visits we had a tough duckling with kiwi fruit and raspberry vinegar, a mushy filet of sole stuffed with crab, salads swimming in dressing, fresh asparagus ruined by overcooking and green beans with far too much garlic. The fish pate was graced with a delicate lobster sauce, but the mersault had not been properly incorporated into the other sauce, giving it an alcoholic taste. The champagne sauce for the poached salmon was better, but the fish was dry. Nothing we ate merited the expense of the high-priced wine list, which began (with few exceptions) at $25, and averaged $65 a bottle, or half the price of a dinner for two. We had been advised to try the fresh lobster, the Dover sole with lemon butter and the rack of lamb-dishes that are not the test of French cooking, but are probably more manageable. Twice, we were seated beside the huge cabinets on which the waiters perform their handiwork. Surely more of this work could be done in the kitchen, where someone should be tasting and checking the food. (2670 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 6-11:30. Reservations required. Jackets required tor men. All credit cards. $$$$)
D Revisits Le Rendezvous. This is one of the most comfortable continental restaurants in Dallas. It’s not as pretentious as some of its competitors, but it’s formal enough to make you feel like you are getting your money’s worth of pomp and ceremony. We’ve long enjoyed the lunch specials, which always include a homemade soup and usually a fresh fish or veal entree as well. Le Rendez-Vous has an extensive seafood selection, including an excellent grilled salmon with béarnaise, poached filet of sole, shrimp, snapper and trout. There’s also a good cold salmon plate served with fresh raw vegetables. This place does a good job on two dishes that have become standards in Dallas continental restaurants: veal in lemon butter and pepper steak. And for those who like to venture outside the culinary mainstream, there’s roast duck in peach sauce or rabbit sautéed in wine sauce. (If you like duck or rabbit, you’ll find the versions served here to be quite acceptable.) If you can wait until 11 am (when the place opens) for breakfast, you couldn’t do better than the omelets served at Le Rendezvous. We’re especially partial to the piperade basque (tomato, onion and green pepper omelet). Service is still consistently good. (3237 McKinney at Hall. 745-1985. Daily 11:30 am-1 am. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Les Saisons. Les Saisons is a study in contrasts -the French country inn decor of the window seating (with a splendid view of Turtle Creek and downtown) contrasts with the lush main eating area in the style of a Viennese boudoir. The menu also reflects this theme of contrasts. The shrimp Les Saisons and the leeks with crab meat are both succulent appetizers of seafood morsels served in a light piquant sauce, but the gamey-tasting escargots are to be avoided. The simple and superb cold smoked trout with horseradish sauce and cucumber salad is the best choice. Salads are ho-hum, but the hearty onion soup is good. Among the entrees, we liked the rack of lamb and the grilled swordfish. The veal chop with chanterelles, though, is a good concept done in by an overzealous hand with the salt jar. To finish the meal, we recommend the chocolate mousse, and the fresh strawberries marinated with just the right touch of Grand Marnier and topped with sour cream. Service is attentive, with a refreshing lack of haughtiness, (165 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 528-1102. Sun-Thur 11:30-11. Fri & Sat 11:30 am till midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
The Mansion. One of the pleasures of the carefully calculated decor of the Mansion is its golden lighting, which enables the diner to see not only his perfect green salad, but also the contemporary nobility on the terrace-visiting movie stars and international financiers. Noble is the word for the Mansion’s peasant dish, tortilla soup. It should be exported to the restaurant’s parent company, New York’s 21 Club. But, we wouldn’t mind at all if the New Yorkers took back their bland chicken hash with Mornay sauce. In other sauces, the Mansion excels. The béarnaise sauce that came with the grilled red snapper was so light, smooth and tasty you could put it on cardboard and swear you’d had a good meal. The lobster sauce with chicken and the wine sauce that dressed the shrimp saute appetizer called for mopping up with a piece of French bread. And the duck served with a brown, not-too-strong garlic sauce was topped with a slice of duck liver pate that deserves a place of its own on the menu. A too-lemony veal sauce was disappointing, given the subtlety of the other sauces. Service is brisk, efficient and French, without annoying theatrics. If only the desserts were as good as they look. The raspberry torte was a chaotic mixture of sour raspberries, brick-like chocolate and bland whipped cream. The restaurant encourages the smoking of fine cigars from its 21 collection, a problem if you are inhaling the enticing aroma of a juicy breast of pheasant with chanterelles, and your neighbor lights up. (2821 Turtle Creek Blvd. 526-2121. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-1:30; Brunch: Sat & Sun 11-2; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-9:30, Fri 6-10, Sat 6-10:30; Supper: Sun-Thur 9:30-midnight, Fri 10-midnight, Sat 10:30-midnight. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$$)
D Revisits Patty’s. This can be an excellent place to have a quiet and elegant continental dinner, provided you arrive when the place is not too crowded. Entrees are generally reliable; on a recent visit we had an excellent pepper steak and a middle-of-the-road version of duck a I’orange. On other visits we found the lamb chops to be consistently tasty. And the old continental standby, veal in lemon butter, is well up to par. Patry’s offers some fine homemade soups, including a cream of broccoli that is among the best in the city. One of the stronger points of this place is the extensive wine list, which complements the menu. (2504 McKinney, 748-3754. Tue-Sun 6-10:30. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)
Pyramid Room. Five or six years ago, Dallas was buzzing over the fact that an evening for two at the Pyramid Room could easily cost $75 to $80. Now $100 to $150 is just as easy, but no one seems shocked anymore. Luckily, the Pyramid justifies the three-figure tab. A superb array of appetizers is led by the escargots en papillot chablisienne, six escar-gots nestled in tender chunks of chicken breast and sautéed with herbs and white wine. For a more subdued beginning, try smoked salmon accompanied by a glass of aquavit. Filet of sole, baked in a flaky pastry and served with lemon butter and bisque sauce, is a dependably delicious main course. Our beef tenderloin with bordeaux wine sauce was a quality cut, but was slightly undercooked. Veal sautéed in butter was, however, prepared to perfection. For a spectacular conclusion, you won’t regret selecting cherries flambé, if you can take your eyes off the silver cart laden with pastries. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross and Akard. 748-5454. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)
Valeriane’s. If you walk into Valeriane’s and experience a sense of déjà vu, the feeling is understandable. The intimate restaurant used to be the home of Jean Claude. The new chef-proprietaire serves the same high-quality cuisine that characterized its predecessor. Everything is homemade, from the pate to the tart fresh fruit sorbets served as palate cleansers to the closing chestnut souffle The scallop mousse was a mound of creamy fish doused in champagne sauce. Shrimp showered with soy sauce, ginger and garlic proved you don’t have to be Chinese to turn out an authentic Oriental dish. Rack of lamb racked up points, and fish lovers should reel in the Dover sole, piled to the gills with crab meat. Only the sweets struck a sour note. Although the chestnut souffle was so light it nearly floated, the cappuccino mousse lacked the sting of espresso, and meringue chantilly glacée tasted like it came from Ashburns. (2520 Cedar Springs between Routh and Fairmount. 741-1413. Mon-Sat 6:30-10:30, Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
D Revisits Three Vikings. Weekend diners are still lining up to try the city’s only samplings of Swedish cuisine, but we’ve been irritated by several things here lately that render our recommendation less than wholehearted. Our marinated cucumbers were saturated beyond definition, the roast duck with almond sauce was roasted to a cardboard-like state and the wild mushroom sauce on our beautiful lamb chops tasted as though it had been simmered too long and too strenuously in an old black pot. Similar dark brown sauces appeared on many of the entrees; we thought they systematically detracted more than contributed. On the happier side, there’s no nicer way to begin a meal than to nibble on Three Vikings’ relish tray. Our veal Oscar was excellent, and we loved the use of dill on the potatoes and grilled salmon steak (which was the finest of the entrees we tried). But the background music piped into the dreary, dimly-lit rooms is sometimes objectionable. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-11. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V. AE, DC. $$$)
INDIAN
India House. Let’s face it: Not that many Dallas diners know the difference between alu tikki and tan-doon chicken. Selections like these are not exactly part of the American culinary mainstream But even if you don’t know what you are eating at India House, you’ll discover one thing quickly: It’s very good. Both the tandoori chicken and beef, marinated delights served with a shovel-sized portion of fluffy rice, are tasty, if extremely filling. And the appetizers, such as chicken chat-chunks of chicken served with mint chutney-are superb. Abundant fresh-fromthe-oven breads are excellent. India House also offers a lunch buffet, which sometimes gets a little unorganized when the crowd starts to outnumber the waiters by too large a ratio Dinner service, however, is extremely attentive. Save room for dessert; the cheese balls in sweet milk are delightful, (5422 E Mockingbird. 823-1000. Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner:Sun-Thur 5-10. Fri&Sat till 11. Reservations. MC. AE, V. DC. $$)
D Revisits Sahib. We can think of no better introduction to the pleasures of Indian food than dinner at Sahib On visual terms alone, the place is commendable: Gauze canopies float over a lovely teal and peach color scheme. Happily, the food equals the decor-if you know what to order. What to order is Maharaja Patiala Sahib’s Dinner, an assortment of Sahib’s specialties that includes wonderful preparations of chicken, lamb and shrimp. What not to order is Lord Cur-zon Sahib’s Seafood Dinner, an assortment of overcooked, flavorless seafood. The $6.95 lunch buffet (which is somewhat misleadingly referred to as “brunch” on weekends) seems to have dropped in quality The variety of Indian salads are still tasty, but the main courses we tasted were overcooked. Service is somewhat abstracted. (9100 Caruth Plaza. 987-2301. Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30: Dinner: Daily 5:30-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
ITALIAN
Bugatti. Although the name sounds like an Italian sports car, and the interior of this North Dallas pasta place looks like somebody’s basement rec room, the food at Bugatti is the real thing: excellent Italian cooking. If the menu looks like a Xerox of the old Lombardi’s bill of fare, that’s because it almost is. The chef at Bugatti, Setimio Carrelli, and the owner, Mario Peres, are both Lombardi’s veterans. Basically, what they are doing at their new Walnut Hill restaurant is serving up exactly what you would have found at the old Lombardi’s on McKinney. And if that constitutes culinary plagarism. so what? Bugatti has not just copied the old Lombardi’s cuisine it’s done a better job of it than has been accomplished by the new Lombardi’s (La Trattoria Lombardi on Hall Street). The tortellini alla crema (called tortellini alla panna at La Trattoria Lombardi) is tastier at Bugatti and also cheaper-$6 at dinner vs, $9.50. Saltim-bocca alla romana will cost $8 at dinner vs. $13.25 at La Trattoria Lombardi, and eggplant parmigiana will run you $5.95 vs. $11,95. Cost comparisons like this would be crass and useless were it not for the fact that both restaurants are offering dishes that over the broad range of the two menus taste practically identical. II you miss the crab cannelloni that seemed to disappear when the old Lombardi’s burned, rejoice; it’s back again and just as good as ever at Bugatti. (2574 Walnut Hill. 350-2470. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2. Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri and Sat 5:30-11:00. Closed Sun. AE, V, MC. $$)
Campisi’s. This restaurant is a Dallas institution whose charm may be lost on the uninitiated. Count on standing in line to gain admission to the dark, dingy interior attended by harried waitresses. Most of the veal, pasta and pizza entrees are in the ordinary-to-tasty range. The best bet is the mostac-cioli (tube-shaped pasta) with outstanding homemade Italian sausage. Dessert is either Black Forest cake or cheesecake, two equally bad options. (5610 E Mockingbird. 827-0355. 827-7711. Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat till 1 am, Sun noon-midnight. Reservations tor 6 or more. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)
La Tosca. It’s obvious that this restaurant is becoming a tradition; La Tosca offers one of the most reliable and extensive Italian menus in town. The appetizers, for instance, include selections like cozze gratinate (broiled mussels with bread crumbs and garlic) and crespelle fiorentina (small crepes with spinach, ricotta cheese and cream sauce). La Tosca is one of the only places in town to offer an octopus salad, although at this writing we’ve yet to sample it. We liked the zuppa di lumache (escargot soup) and found the minestrone to be perfectly suited to our taste once we added some of the extra Parmesan the waiter brought with it. The best pasta dish is the paglia e fieno aurora (so-called “hay and straw” spinach and regular noodles in a tomato and cream sauce). Other strong points include the high-quality veal dishes like saltimbocca alla romana. The dessert menu is also filled with delicious surprises. like the superb strawberry tarts. (7773 Inwood. 352-8373. Sun, Tue-Thur 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Mon. All credit cards. $$$)
La Trattoria Lombardi. Sometimes success can ruin a good restaurant. Management, intoxicated by the length of the crowd in the waiting line, gets overconfident. Quality plummets. Prices climb beyond what is reasonable. Recent visits convince us that while it would be premature to conclude that La Trattoria Lombardi has been ruined by its past success, the undeniable fact is that the place is slipping. The signs of culinary complacency are beginning to manifest themselves in the pasta. It is frequently overcooked; it is universally overpriced. We recommend avoiding the maleficent manicotti and the languid linguini; instead go for the veal (the veal with lemon butter, veal marsala and saltimbocca alla romana are all excellent), the homemade soups (the minestrone is some of the best in the city) or the frittata (great little Italian omelets with ham, cheese, mushrooms, peppers and a tangy tomato sauce). We also recommend the sole with lemon butter, although we’ve been disappointed in some of the other fish selections, like the mussels with marinara sauce, the clams with white wine sauce and the linguini with clam sauce. Desserts can be superior, especially the homemade ice creams (there are five to choose from). And while the food has slipped a notch, the service definitely hasn’t It’s among the most hospitable found in Dallas. (2916 Hall. 823-6040. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2, Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri-Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sunday. All credit cards. $$$)
Mario’s. About as far from the spaghetti-and-meatballs, red-checked-tablecloth stereotype as an Italian restaurant can be, Mario’s is elegant and, of course, expensive. Appetizers are somewhat disappointing: Minestrone is boring, escargots are heavy and sautéed shrimp is bland. But the main dishes- especially the many variations on veal and the homemade green lasagna-are consistently excellent and served in generous portions. And the souffles equal those at any French restaurant in town. Service is friendly and efficient, (735 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations. Jackets required lor men. All credit cards. $$$)
Sergio’s. The recently completed remodeling of Sergio’s has transformed what was once little more than a hole in the wall in a corner of The Quadrangle into an elegant, formal dining establishment The management is to be complimented for resisting the urge to jack up the prices in order to pay tor all that new carpet and wallpaper. But if the decoration is an architectural success, it was something of a culinary failure. The worst effect of the transformation of Sergio’s is that the once wonderful homemade pasta is now a bit on the doughy side. Most of the chicken and veal dishes-which have always been standouts-have survived the remodeling. And this restaurant still makes one of the better omelets available in Dallas. One of the better appetizers available in the city is Sergio’s version of marinated crab claws. (Even though they are obviously only marinated for the time it takes the waiter to walk to your table after the kitchen staff has covered them with a tangy sauce, the crab claws are still excellent ) Sergio’s fine track record over the past couple of years makes us confident that the restaurant will soon get its pasta problem in order. Until then we recommend sticking with one of the seven reliable veal selections on the menu or opting for sole saffron or chicken Florentine. (Suite 165, The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 742 3872. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2. Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)
MEXICAN
Café Cancun. We’re happy to report that Cafe Cancun has tightened up its attention to culinary detail, and the food is once again the equal of its lovely tropical surroundings. Among the highlights of the imaginative menu are jicama (a crunchy apple-like appetizer), tacos filled with pork and cooked in chile ancho sauce (be sure to ask for the avocado and tomato salsas) and chicken enchiladas mole. Entrees are accompanied by the best rice and black- not pinto-beans in town. Two soups have been added to the menu, a wonderful chicken-vegetable soup and a corn soup that’s a bit too reminiscent of canned creamed corn for our tastes. Another innovation is the lunch specials now available-at $3.45, an ideal way to sample Cafe Cancun’s delights. (4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11. Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. MC, All credit cards. $$)
Chiquita. With its pastel tablecloths and the matching color-coordinated outfits of the waiters. Chiquita is out of the ordinary compared to most Tex-Mex places. Therefore, it’s appropriate that Chiquita’s out of the ordinary specialties excel. It’s not that there’s anything wrong with the standard combination dinner offerings: it’s just that you can do as well or better elsewhere. But when it comes to dishes like carne asada tampico style (filet mignon with sau-téed green pepper and onions) or filete de la casa (filet mignon with garlic and hot peppers), you can’t match Chiquita’s combination of top-quality beef and skillful preparation. We’ve found that chicken and seatood specialties have not lived up to the standard of the beef dishes But don’t miss the tortilla soup, a rich, oniony tomato broth with tortilla strips and melted white cheese. (3810 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)
Escondido. Although there is also an Escondido on Maple Avenue, it is kin in name only to the Butler Street location. What tastes fresh and spicy on Butler tastes fired and bland on Maple. True, the Butler location is so sleazy in appearance that Her-rera and Guadalajara look plush in comparison. But the dedicated Tex-Mex fan will happily overlook the surroundings in order to try the fiery picante sauce, fresh tostadas, sour cream beef enchiladas and exemplary rice and beans. (2210 Butler. 631-9912. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2: Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-9. Closed Sun No credit cards. $)
Guadalajara. If you believe in the sleaze postulate of the Tex-Mex dining theory (that the more hell hole-like a restaurant is, the better the food will be), then you’ll experience love at first sight when you enter this charming establishment. After midnight, Guadalajara can look like a cross between a biker bar and Dante’s Inferno. We can’t make judgments as to whether there is a corollary between the border town bordello ambiance and the fact that the food is good at Guadalajara; but it is true that the food is memorable. Among the consistently good offerings are the enchiladas, tacos, tamales, chiles rellenos and frijoles. We’ve also found a good version of chicken mole as well as some decent chalupas. If you prefer that your fellow diners be dressed in Hickey-Freeman suits instead of sleeveless blue jean jackets and chain belts, simply go at noon, when the downtown banker crowd packs the place in pursuit of good guacamole. Service can be a bit slow, since management obviously knows it has a good thing going and loyal customers are willing to wait. (3308 Ross. 823-9340. Tue-Sun 11 am-3:30am. Closed Mon. No reservations. No credit cards. $)
D Revisits Herrera. The management of this little dump of a restaurant on Maple Avenue must have a difficult time resisting the urge to become cocky. After all. it must be a great feeling for a culinary entrepreneur to see all those gringos lined up outside, ready to sweat in the summer and freeze in the winter for an opportunity to sample some of the tasty Tex-Mex that awaits inside. But despite the fact that Herrera has more customers than it can possibly serve, the food and service at the restaurant have remained consistently good. Once you’ve elbowed your way to a table (you can expect a minimum half-hour wait at peak dining hours), we suggest you go for one of the eclectic dishes like the Jimmy’s special or the Pepe’s special, both of which are virtual Tex-Mex smorgasbords. They include everything from chicken enchiladas to guaca-mole. Most of the mainline Mexican dinners on the menu are no-miss propositions, although we’ve had mediocre experiences with some of the fancier dishes like guizo de res and carne asada. If you like to drink beer with your meal, Herrera offers the classic good news/bad news situation. The good news is that you can bring beer and drink it in the parking lot while you wait in line; the bad news is that you’d better bring enough to drink with your meal: Herrera has no liquor license. (3902 Maple. 526-9427. Mon, Wed. Thur 9 am-8 pm, Fri-Sun till 10. Closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards. $)
Mario & Alberto. The dinner ritual at this place includes a 30-minute wait that is made somewhat more pleasant by the tangy goodness of the frozen margaritas that are purveyed by the pitcher in the waiting area. The secret to this place is that Mario Leal has taken a proven Mexican menu from his other restaurant (Chiquita) and transported it intact to Preston and LBJ. Leal is literally miles ahead of his competition. North Dallas diners obviously don’t mind queuing up in crowded quarters to wait for a sample of the reliable staples like enchiladas, guacamole, tacos al carbon and carne asada. They are all essentially the same as the high-quality items you find at Chiquita. But in addition to the standard Tex-Mex, Mario & Alberto offers some more unusual delights like pescado marmero (fish filet filled with spinach and topped with oysters and shrimp), cala-bactias rellenas (zucchini stuffed with sirloin and covered with white cheese) and carnitas adobadas (thin pork strips marinated in a piquant sauce and skillet fried). (425 Preston Valley Shopping Center, LBJ at Preston. 980-7296. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11. Drinks with $5 membership charge. MC, V, AE. $$)
Raphael’s. It may be that Raphael’s has slipped somewhat from its longtime position as one of Dallas’ best Mexican restaurants, or it may be that the growing competition from ambitious upstarts has simply overtaken this established enchilada outpost. Regardless, nobody’s bothered to tell the hungry hordes constantly waiting (or tables. When a second location opened on Greenville Avenue, we thought it might be the answer. So far there is no waiting at the Greenville Raphael’s, but perhaps that’s because it doesn’t live up to the somewhat slipped standards of the original Raphael’s The Greenville menu is not identical-some items, like the superb strawberry or peach sopapillas, are missing, and some, like the dry, underseasoned soft pork tacos, are present that aren’t available at the original. Therefore, we still recommend the Raphael’s on McKinney, if you have the stomach to wait. Once seated, head for the specialty dishes, many accompanied by wonderful pico de gallo. Two sure bets are the authentic combination plate, an assortment of specialties, and the tacos al carbon. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640. Mon-Fri 11:30-10:30, Sat noon-10.30. Closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. All credit cards. $$)
MIDDLE EASTERN
Khalil’s Beirut. If you can negotiate the obstacle course that is Belt Line Road in the vicinity of Quorum Plaza, you will be well rewarded. Khalil’s Beirut is definitely the top of the line for fans of Middle Eastern food. Its competition admittedly is limited: The Pita Place is equally fine but has a more limited menu, and Hedary’s in Fort Worth, though good, is not up to Khalil’s quality. Khalil’s is a more formal place than either of its competitors. On Friday nights there is a belly dancer (in case you require entertainment to induce you to venture into the unfamiliar territory of mahshi warak areesh. malfouf mahshi and baba ganouj). Order the extra special appetizer tray, and you will get the aforementioned and 10 or so more dishes; at $14.95, this is more than enough for an entire meal for two-and the best introduction we know of to Lebanese food. Other choices include Lebanese lamb and beef dishes and, for the unadventurous, standard steak and seafood entrees. (Quorum Plaza, Belt Line west of Dallas Parkway. 934-3100. Mon-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
The Pita Place. After a hiatus following its former downtown tenancy, the Pita Place has reopened in North Dallas. The food is still fresh, tasty and inexpensive, and now the surroundings are pleasant and bright. (Its previous incarnation could be charitably described as dingy.) We can think of no better lunch for a dreary day than a falafel sandwich (fresh pocket bread stuffed with deep-fried ground chickpeas and fava beans with lettuce and tomato), perhaps accompanied by a cool tabouli salad (chopped cracked wheat, parsley, tomatoes, cucumber and mint, all marinated in lemon juice and olive oil) and hummus (a dip of chickpeas and sesame-seed paste seasoned with lemon and garlic). The pita burger of ground sirloin with chopped onions and parsley is. however, not unlike munching on a charcoal briquet. Steering clear of the acrid chocolate mousse is also advisable. (The Corner Shopping Center, 9820 N Central Expy at Walnut Hill. 987-3226. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-midnight, Sun 5-10. AE, MC, V, DC. $)
NATURAL FOODS
Marvins Garden. The clientele-and the help- more closely resemble the denizens of Haight-Ash-bury in the Sixties than any other place in town. A fair share of clean-cut preppies can be found here. too. But still, this East Dallas cafe is not the place for carnivores who think tofu and bean sprouts should be controlled substances. Both are found in abundance on the menu. Standouts are the house salad with creamy garlic dressing, Mr. Jim’s pizza, and enchiladas and quesadillas filled with white cheese and covered with ranchera sauce. Once, in the spirit of adventure, we ordered Malcolm’s non-dairy en-childas. We were sorry we did. Soups, though homemade, are also to be avoided. A welcome innovation here is Sunday brunch with quiche, homemade whole-grain muffins, huevos rancheros, lush fruit salads and fine coffee. An unwelcome constant is the agonizingly slow service, which is even slower during Sunday brunch. You need to be very mellow not to mind waiting almost an hour to get your coffee. (6033 Oram at Skillman. 824-5841. Sun-Thur 11-10:30; Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, V, DC, CB. $$)
ORIENTAL
Asuka. You may feel like you’ve waltzed into a tourist trap when the kimono-clad waitress shuffles over to your table and presents you with the menu: a photo album filled with 3 x 5-inch glossies of the food you’re about to consume. Nevertheless, eating at Asuka is a soothing experience that will transport you 1,000 miles away from the construction and congestion 50 yards outside the door. For dinner, sit Japanese-style (the setup here is easy on American lower backs) and try any one of the Kaiseki dinners. If you order something large, such as the Asuka Kaiseki, there’s no need to order Sashimi or sushi (raw fish is included with the meal). We’ve also sampled the Ishiyaki Kaiseki-beef and vegetables served over sizzling stone pebbles-and found it delightful. At lunch the service is slow, but the food is just as palate-pleasing and pretty. (7136 Greenville. 363-3537. Lunch: Tue-Sun 11-2; Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-11. Closed Mon. Reservations. AE, V, MC, DC. $$$)
August Moon. As the lines at dinner time attest, North Dallas has an appetite for high-quality Chinese fare. Large and lavishly decorated, August Moon fills the bill wilh a vast menu featuring specialties of Taiwan, Young Chow, Shanghai, Peking, Szechuan, Hunan and Canton. Soups are nothing special here, but the pu pu tray of assorted appetizers makes for a good start. Mongolian barbecue (marinated sirloin, pork and lamb stir-fried with vegetables) and kung-po chicken are two of the best choices for main courses. Shredded pork in garlic sauce, diced chicken with almond, and Shanghai steak are less successful. Portions are generous, and service is extremely fast and accommodating. (15030 Preston at Belt Line. 385-7227. Mon-Thur 11-10:15; Fri 11-10:45; Sat 4-10:45; Sun noon-10:30. Reservations. Bar by membership. AE, MC, V, CB. $$)
Bo Bo China. No matter that this place apparently had the same interior decorator as Don Carter’s All-Star Bowling Lanes; on food alone, this may be the best Chinese restaurant in Dallas. We’ve yet to find a disappointment on a rather massive menu. If you want haute cuisine, try the excellent Peking duck (which must be ordered a day in advance). If you want a fast but tasty lunch, try one of the half dozen lunch specials, which at $2.99 a plate, have to rank among the best buys in the city. Most of the main dishes include a superb wonton soup, but we suggest trying the sizzling rice soup, which is even better. Another standout is the pot stickers. Chinese-style dumplings tilled with pork. Servings are large enough that you’re likely to need to take part of the meal home, which the management is happy to facilitate (10630 Church Rd at LBJ Fwy. 349-2411. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11, Sun 11-10. Setups available, brown-bagging allowed. No reservations. AE, MC, V, $)
Hunan. Selecting (from the large menu of this restaurant specializing in the spicy cuisine of the province of Hunan is like throwing darts: You may hit and leave thinking you have dined splendidly, or you may miss and leave feeling thoroughly dispirited. On one recent visit, our food wasn’t even on the dart board. Appetizers were among the worst we’ve ever had. (Entree portions are extremely generous, so appetizers can easily be skipped.) Diced chicken with peanuts was tender, with crunchy peanuts, but the pieces of gristle were unforgivable. River Shang pork was blandly forgettable. On another visit, we were in luck. Shredded pork with garlic sauce was inspired, with black mushrooms, chopped scallions and julienned water chestnuts in a delicious, garlicky sauce. Lake Tung-Tin shrimp was tasty, although we could have done without the limp, overcooked celery. (5274 Greenville at Lovers Ln. 369-4578. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:45. Fri & Sat till 11:45. MC, V, AE. $$)
Monkok. Monkok won’t change your life, but it offers reasonably priced Chinese food that, if you order wisely, can be very good. We tried the pu pu tray of assorted appetizers and found the butterfly shrimp and egg rolls to be the best components. Both can and should be ordered a la carte, in order to skip the overcooked rumaki, tough spare ribs and too chewy cho cho beef also on the pu pu tray. Won-ton and hot and sour soups are respectable versions; skip the egg drop, which is exceptionally bland. Among the entrees, try Monkok Delight (juicy chicken, shrimp and ham with mushrooms and vegetables). Chicken with peanuts (marked with a star as hot and spicy) is a more passable but pallid version than usual; it doesn’t earn its star. Cantonese roast duck is a tasty version. Only pork lo mein with vegetables and homemade noodles is irredeemable; it’s greasy and, worse, a strange orange color. (2150 N Collins Blvd. Richardson. 6440404. Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-70, Fri & Sat 5-11. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)
Sakura. What with the geisha dancing in the tatami room, the schmaltzy piano bar music downstairs battling the koto music playing in the rest of the place, and the slashing, clanging and sizzling of the chefs upstairs, the diner at Sakura feels transported to a three-ring Japanese circus. The only trouble is that you want a table at a restaurant, not a seat in the big top. But for feats of skill and daring, the sushi chef didn’t disappoint us. With the deft hands of a master, he sliced perfect pieces of impeccably fresh raw seafood and served them atop rice. We were disappointed only by most of the more standard Japanese offerings, with the exception of chicken kara-aga. deep-fried sesame-coated morsels. The sushi bar is definitely the center ring at this circus; the side shows are best avoided. (7402 Greenville near Walnut Hill. 361-9282 Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat till 11:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
D Revisits Siam. Siam was briefly closed for remodeling, but for the life of us, we can’t figure out what they did to the place. The decor is still comfortably shabby; the food is still reliably terrific. But every time we venture away from our tried-and-true list of favorites, we’re sorry. Nothing on the menu is bad, but few entrees live up to the excellence of the handful of Thai dishes we like to order. By number on the menu, they are; 103 (marinated, broiled pork on a stick, with peanut sauce and cucumber salad), 127 (rice noodles with pork, shrimp and a panoply of aromatic ingredients) and 137 (rosy chicken curry with coconut milk, green pepper, bamboo shoots and fresh mint). The limited lunch menu changes every day. (1730 W Mockingbird near Harry Hines. 631-5482. Mon-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat 11-11. Closed Sun. All credit cards. $)
Sawatdee. Being second in a field of two can mean number one is too firmly entrenched to be overtaken. Or, in the case of Sawatdee, Dallas’ second Thai restaurant, it can mean you’re simply not in number one’s league. Comparisons with Siam may be unfair, but they are inevitable. Most of the news is discouraging: Although the skewered, broiled pork appetizer here is spicy, the accompanying sauce is floury. Deep-fried crab claws tasted frozen and resembled mutant corny dogs. Entrees tend to be pallid: We tasted shrimp with chili paste, roast duck country-style, chicken with hot sauce and fried pineapple rice; while nothing was bad. nothing was memorable. There are some encouraging signs: fine, unusual calamari salad and lively hot and sour soup with shrimp. (4503 Greenville at Yale. 373-6138. Daily: 11:30-11:30. Lunch special: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. AE, MC. V. $$)
Szechuan. This oasis in the Lemmon Avenue last-food strip offers reliably good, if never great, Szechuan and standard Chinese dishes. Lunch specials (served Monday through Saturday), at $2,50 to $3.75, are bargains, and there’s an unusually large number to choose from. Soups are not a strong point here: crab meat and corn rice soup is the best choice. Main dish standouts include shredded pork with garlic sauce, moo shi pork, chicken with cashew nuts and the chicken and shrimp combination. Sliced beef with orange flavor, however, tastes too strongly of anise for most western tastes. (4117 Lemmon near Douglas. 521-6981. Sun-Thur 11:30-10:30. Fri & Sat till 11:30. MC. V. AE, DC. $$)
Taiwan. This restaurant is dressier and a bit more expensive than a lot of Chinese places in town, but it stands head and shoulders above most of them when it comes to food. Owner-manager Scott Sheu is said to have brought his staff to Dallas straight from San Francisco, and there is a certain sophistication and California-like vastness to the menu. The choices, particularly in terms of appetizers and soups, are more varied here. We tried the Kuo-Teh meat dumplings and found them well worth the 15-minute wait they take to prepare. Of the seven soups, we tried the hot and sour (which was a good interpretation of its namesake), and the sizzling rice soup for two. The flaming pu pu platter is among the best we’ve tried in town, and the spare ribs are unusually large and lean. The kitchen is at its best with the hot and spicy Szechuan dishes. Even our tender-mouthed friends found the unspiced entrees rather bland. We liked the Peking beef and princess shrimp and chicken. We also tried the beef sizzling iron plate and a wonderful vegetable dish of crisp snow peas, water chestnuts and peerless mushrooms. The service is sometimes absent-minded. During one visit we ordered steamed rice and got fried, another time we ordered sweet and sour fish slices and got a bony whole fish instead. (6111 Greenville. 369-8902. Mon-Sat 11-3 am. Sun 11-11. Reservations. MC, V, AE, $$$)
Yunnan Dynasty. By virtue of its illustrious pedigree, Yunnan Dynasty is an automatic contender for the title of Dallas’ Best Chinese Restaurant. As a sibling of the Austin restaurant of the same name, Yunnan Dynasty does its heritage proud. Unlike most Chinese restaurants in town, where you can get good soup, appetizers or main dishes, here you can have an entire meal that is peerless. Egg rolls are delicate and fresh, and soups are a no-miss proposition, although the mellow crab meat and corn soup is particularly noteworthy. When it comes to the entrees, the only caveat is simple: Order the spicy dishes marked with a box on the menu. The standout is steamed whole fresh fish with garlic and black bean sauce, a low-cal dinner that Weight Watchers never dreamed of. The contemporary surroundings are a pleasant change from the standard Chinese restaurant decor. (9100 N Central Expy, Suite 191. 739-1110. Sun-Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat 11:30-midnight. AE, V, MC. $$)
SEAFOOD
Charley’s Seafood Grill. Amazing, these Addison eateries A year ago Charley’s was a vacant lot. Now it’s a first-class seafood emporium complete with everything from shrimp to swordfish on a skewer. And. as is the case with many of the new establishments along Belt Line Road, Charley’s has developed an instant following: throngs of Izod-clad diners eager to sample some of the 27 kinds of imported beer (served at arctic temperatures) and munch iced shrimp while waiting a customary 15 to 30 minutes for a table. In truth, the fish is not on quite as high a par as the ambiance. Charley’s is smartly decorated in what the designers are doubtless calling “Old New England Lighthouse Contemporary ” And while we found the selection of charcoal-broiled fish (red snapper, swordfish steak, trout) to be excellent, some of the fried offerings like the shrimp and oysters were simply so-so The one negative is Charley’s chowder, truly bland on numerous samplings. The overall dining experience, however, is definitely worth the minimal investment in time and money. (5348 Belt Line. 934-8501. Sun-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat 11-11. MC, DC. V. AE. $$)
D Revisits Fausto’s. The only thing Fausto’s has going against it is that it is located in the same hotel with an expensive, bad restaurant: Antares. First-time visitors to the Hyatt Regency Hotel try Antares because of the spectacular view atop Reunion Tower and come away disappointed with the food. (You won’t find Antares in our restaurant listings.) Hotel patrons assume that if Antares can’t serve a good meal, neither can Fausto’s. That assumption is wrong The menu is ambitious: Tender and sweet frog legs, juicy swordfish steak, a tasty shark gumbo, poached salmon steak topped with a luscious green peppercorn sauce and an excellent version of duckling in lingonberry sauce are among the broad range of culinary triumphs available. And attention is paid to the supporting cast of items that surround the entrees: marbled black and rye bread toast with Parmesan cheese that arrives before the menu, homemade pear sorbet perched atop an orange half that is served to clear your palate before the main course, fresh strawberries stuffed with chocolate mousse served after the dessert and a fine assortment of homemade soups and chowders at lunch. All this caloric decadence is served up in a darkened dining room that is one of the plushest eating areas in the city. Service is attentive but not hovering. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11; Fri & Sat till midnight; Sun brunch: 10:30-2:30. All credit cards. $$$$)
Oyster’s. A simple menu, reasonable waiting times and an enthusiastic staff make Oyster’s an oasis in the tast-paced neon jungle that has sprouted in the Belt Line/Dallas Parkway corridor. Oyster’s doesn’t rely on any menu or decor gimmicks to keep its regular customers, just promptly prepared seafood that lives up to the menu’s boast that the food is served only when available fresh. Interestingly, the filet of flounder and fresh Boston scrod filet are preferable to the restaurant’s namesake, although the fresh oysters on the half-shell are no slouches. Avoid the lackluster shrimp, but make sure you sample the eggplant or zucchini appetizers. The staff surprisingly takes as much care in preparing the hamburgers and sandwiches as it does in preparing the seafood. The hamburgers are big and juicy, and the bread is fresh-a rarity in a seafood restaurant. Unfortunately. the desserts taste like the Sara Lee variety, and the beer and wine options are uninspired, (4580 Belt Line. 386-0122. Mon-Thur 11:30-10, Fri till 11. Sat 5-11. Sun 5-10. MC, V, AE. $$)
Ratcliffe’s. Although it’s relatively new to Dallas. Ratcliffe’s may well be one of the best seafood restaurants in Dallas. The menu is easily as impressive as the handsome surroundings. Shrimp remoulade. Dungeness crab, shrimp and crab in white wine sauce, scampi Mediterranean, lemon sole, salmon with hollandaise-all are unsurpassed. Only the tasteless fisherman’s stew and the laughable house salad (a vinegary quartered head of ro-maine lettuce) disappoint. Don’t miss the apple hazelnut tart for dessert. (1901 McKinney. 748-7480. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 4:30-10. Fri-Sat 4:30 11. No reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
Seascape Inn. The owners of Old Warsaw. Les Saisons, Mario’s and Arthur’s have accrued this admirable addition to the Dallas seafood scene housed in what used to be an unfortunate place The Baked Potato. The best place to sit for lunch is by the geranium-garnished north windows. At night, the church pew booths with lace partitions are softly lit and romantic. We’ve yet to be disappointed by a meal here, and the service is helpful to the point of being self-effacing. We did. on one occasion, find what seemed to be an excessive amount of crab cartilage in the crab ramequin. an appetizer made of lump crab meat and tiny mushrooms in a white sauce that otherwise seemed just fine. Other appetizers we’ve enjoyed include the seafood gumbo, New England clam chowder, baked oyster Seascape in a tomato sauce and the ceviche. The remoulade served with a generous serving of lump crab meat seemed more like a tiresome Thousand Island than what it was supposed to be, but the other sauces were all quite nice As entrées, we’ve sampled the salmon in puff pastry, sauléed sea trout with lemon and capers, cape scallops in lemon and butter, and a lovely fried flounder. The management is still shuffling entrees from the lunch menu to dinner, so you can expect to see some variation in the daily specials and listed selections. Everything is light enough here to find room for dessert, and the homemade pies are excellent, (6306 Greenville. 692-6920. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11:30. Reservations recommended. AE, V, MC. $$$)
D Revisits Jozef’s. Jozef’s hasn’t made up its mind to get everything right, so choose carefully. Begin with smoked freshwater trout with horseradish sauce, though you may want more horseradish in the sauce The mushrooms stuffed with crab meat imperial are peppery enough, though. as was the fish soup. The crab meat Remick was delightful. The bouillabaisse, a Mediterranean seafood stew, was reminiscent of Marseilles, where it was invented, but possibly it was a mistake to follow a seafood recipe from an inland, mountainous region like Grenoble. Filet of sole Grenobloise was machined into a perfect triangle, too geometrical for the eye, and the capers and croutons added little to the dish. The potatoes and vegetables, sodden with butter, were awful. Avoid the shrimp in soggy beer batter with an orange sauce that resembles marmalade. You’re better off sticking with the basics, like live Maine lobster or char-broiled fish of the season We had a seafood luncheon salad that seemed to have been prepared hours in advance and was bland from refrigeration, very much like the piece of Roquefort cheese we were served. For dessert we had a tasty blueberry cheesecake and an ordinary parfait. and were warned to stay away from the chocolate mousse by a helpful waiter who was attentive but never overbearing. (2719 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)
S & D Oyster Company. The line is usually long; the dining room is noisy, the desserts are consistently bad. If these minor hitches will keep you away from S&D. that’s fine with its fans, who swelter, freeze and get drenched, depending on the season, waiting in line You can find places where it costs more, you can find places that are more tony, but you can’t find a better plate of fresh fish Even fried shrimp, the child’s greasy delight, was the best we have ever had. Boiled shrimp and red snapper are also good choices. And the oyster loaf sandwich, though too large to eat easily, was worth the battle. (Ask to have it cut in two.) The dining area is comfortable and charming. The New Orleans-inspired waiters give S&D class. However, nothing so complimentary can be said of the desserts. There was something fishy about the ice cream, and the cheesecake could have been retitled cheese and egg cake. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat till 11. Closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)
D Revisits Turtle Cove. Ordering at Turtle Cove is very simple: Get the fresh seafood broiled over a mesquite wood fire, the odor of which scents the restaurant. The mesquite provides a low moist heat that cooks seafood perfectly. We wandered into flounder one night, two of which were on display on ice in the front of the restaurant. The waiter brought us one of what he said was a smaller fish (approximately the size of the platter), which was impossible to finish. The chef believes that by broiling fresh whole fish with the head and tail on, the fish holds its freshness and flavor longer. He’s right. Along with seafood comes a choice of two extras. Avoid the iceberg lettuce and try the mesquite-broiled vegetables (zucchini, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms and onions). The onion rings and fries are good, if you can find room for them. We made a mistake and ordered crab legs, which were okay, but nothing special. Stick to the fresh seafood. For appetizers, try fresh oysters and broiled shrimp. The banana fried in beer batter with vanilla ice cream seems a little much for dessert, given the portions served. The menu requires something light and sweet, not heavy and fried. (2731 W Northwest Hwy near European Crossroads. 350-9034. Daily: 11-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES
Broussard’s. “No oil shortage here” should read the sign in front of Broussard’s, a backwoods Louisiana Cajun diner that just happens to be located in Irving. The specialties of the house are all fried: oysters, shrimp, catfish, frog legs, hush puppies and potatoes with the crunchy skins left on. All attest to the expertise of chef Frenchy. They are very simply prepared with lightly spiced coatings and properly fried. complemented nicely by the tangy homemade red sauce. Broussard’s bats 500 with its rice dishes. The picante and jambalaya were pleasing versions, but the étouffée and gumbo were foul balls-one can get much better from a can. At all costs avoid the coleslaw; it is just an excuse for someone to abuse a defenseless head of cabbage. The food is served cafeteria-style, but the wail is shortened by the great jukebox featuring various Ca-|un bands and Willie Nelson. (707 N Belt Line in Irving, 1 mile S of Rte 183. 255-8024. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Fri 5-10. Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $$)
Celebration. This is the closest thing to a home-cooked meal you’re going to find in a Dallas restaurant. Entrees include old standbys like meat loaf, pot roast, baked chicken and fresh trout. And the vegetables are served family style, along with a massive bowl of tossed green salad. The food has been consistently reliable on numerous visits. The only problem, however, is that most of Dallas knows about Celebration. Consequently, the crowds can be hectic, especially if you have to undergo the ordeal of being asked to wait next door in the Celebration leather shop until your name is called over a loud speaker. If you don’t have the patience for a half-hour wait, we suggest you either get there shortly after the place opens or try some of your own home cooking. (4503 W Lovers Ln. 351-5681. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 -2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, Sun 5-10. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)
Highland Park Cafeteria. HPC is the great equalizer of Dallas society; here, anyone can obtain the satisfaction of knowing he possesses what others desire-in this case, a place in the front of the serving line. This is no small feat-the line can at times be monumental, inspiring whopper tales to rival those of the most braggadocious of fishermen. HPC has broken the number one tenet of cafeterias- that food must be rendered either bland or soggy, preferably both, before serving. Salads are fresh and varied (try the chopped spinach salad or tomato aspic with homemade mayonnaise). The chicken-fried steak and fried chicken are complemented by fresh biscuits and homemade gravy. Vegetables are properly cooked, not steamed into compliance. A warm buttered zucchini muffin finishes the meal nicely, but HPC also bakes up quite a respectable buttermilk pie and good brownies. HPC’s food is not memorable, but it is consistent and sets the standard for cafeteria food in Dallas. (4611 Cole. 526-3801. Mon-Sat 11-8. Closed Sun. No liquor. Reservations. MC, V at buffet and to-go lines only. $)
D Revisits Tolbert’s Texas Chili Parlor. Frank X. Tolbert, the quasi-retired Morning News columnist, was just plain weird long before it was fashionable. And he will doubtless still be strange long after it has gone out of style. Who else but a weirdo would name his first restaurant (the Main Street location) “Tolbert’s Native Texas Foods and Museum of the Chili Culture?” Most of the followers of the culture are in fact Morning News reporters and polyester-clad County Court House employees who flock to the downtown restaurant during the noon hour in pursuit of some of Frank’s excellent chili and tasty Texas-style burgers. On Mondays, a $3 lunch is accompanied by free beer, which coupled with the elbow-to-elbow crowd of semi-rowdies, makes the decorum in the place such that screaming and hooting along with the country ’n’ western jukebox is considered tastefully apropos. The Cedar Springs location is somewhat more refined, possibly because the place lacks a crowd of journalists during the noon hour, and hooting is not encouraged. Both locations have some excellent mainline Texas cooking: Frank’s own version of chili (Texas Red), burgers with every type of dressing from mayo to guacamole, hearty fries and onion rings. The menu is somewhat more extensive at the Cedar Springs location and includes a credible chicken-fried steak, burritos and nachos. (802 Main Street 742-6336. Mon-Fri 11-3. No credit cards. 3902 Cedar Springs. 522-4340. Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11 midnight. Sun noon-11. MC, V, AE. $)
Lucy’s. Located in Chelsea Square, a down-at-heel arts and crafts shopping center, Lucy’s offers Texan and Mexican cooking. What this translates into is good Southern home-style offerings and passable Mexican food. Lucy’s chicken-fried steak is tender and tasty, and the accompanying vegetables include good, skins-on mashed potatoes and fresh green beans. Pot roast is also tasty, if a little on the greasy side Good corn bread and yeast rolls accompany all daily specials. The dessert choices are pasty, sodden apple or pecan pie. (3136 Routh. 742-5517- Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner: Wed-Sal 6:30-10:30. MC, V, AE. DC, $)
Sonny Bryan’s. At Sonny Bryan’s the entire interior is color-coordinated to remind you that the room is a giant flue. Everything is the color of smoke the walls, the floors, the windows and the flies. You either have to sit on a plank bench or in your own car after you give your order to a humorless person who responds with “What initial?” as her only spoken words, leaving you to stand with a gang of fellow barbecue zealots waiting to hear your name called. You want it? Suffer for it. Any Sonny Bryan freak will fight you to the grease-stained floor in its defense as the greatest barbecue joint in town. The beef is excellent, with a generous serving at $1.80 per sandwich. The place is grimy, the clientele strange, the stall surly But the beer is cold and the barbecue is at its earthy best. Just like the good ol’ days-1910 to be exact-says the barely visible sign, when the first Bryan barbecue was served up. Probably the same year they washed the windows. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 7 am-5 pm. Sat 7 am-3 pm, Sun 11 am-2 pm. No reservations. No credit cards. $)
STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.
Dalts. Even though a new restaurant or bar seems to open in Addison every day, it’s safe to say that Dalt’s is the best new Belt Line eatery to open in months. This is a formula restaurant (it’s owned by the same people who own TGI Friday’s), but it doesn’t look or feel like a formula restaurant, The burgers are big and juicy, as are some of the con coctions that come from the bar. The steak sand wich, at $375. affords the diner a chance to have a full meal and a beer for under $5. Dalt’s has some excellent malt shop offerings like shakes, sundaes and sodas. (5100 Belt Line. 385-8606. Daily 11 am-2 am. MC, V, AE. $)
D Revisits Hoffbrau. Once again we’ve found the atmosphere at this delightful Austinesque steak house to be its primary charm Sink into the deep vinyl (deep because the springs are shot) booths, put your elbows on the table, have a beer and listen to the genuine Texas accents of the polyester-clad cowboys (the real kind that let you know, in case you doubted, that this is a real steak restaurant). Our thick, juicy 8-ounce rib eyes were served in pools of butter with fried cubed potatoes and plain white bread. It was among the best steak house fare we’ve had anywhere in Dallas; by the time we left we had filled ourselves almost as full as our Levi’s could handle for less than $10 each; but if you’re into real and beautiful self-abuse, there’s a Haagen-Dazs two doors down for dessert. (3205 Knox at Cole. 559-2680. Sun-Thur 11-11:30. Fri & Sat 11:30-midnight. All credit cards. $$)
Kobe Steaks. This plush Japanese steak house offers combinations of steak, seafood and/or chicken. beet is the teatured attraction, and it is of the highest quality. Dinners come with delicious beef broth, a piquant shrimp appetizer and smooth green tea as well as salad and rice. But the seating arrangements, with groups of diners around the surface where the cook chops and sautes, offer all the privacy of a bus station. (15000 Quorum Drive at Belt Line off Dallas Pkwy, Suite 600. 934-8150. Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat till midnight. All credit cards. $$$)
Newcomer: Nostromo Bar. By the time this high-tech bar/restaurant opened its unmarked door, it was in the higher echlon of “in” places to see and be seen in Dallas. Reason: This is the restaurant version of the Eight-O. There is no jukebox; a xylophonist plunks out soothing melodies instead. In the few weeks since the place has opened, we’ve noticed that the “in” atmosphere has become so thick that it’s sometimes almost nauseating. Late-night patrons seem to be trying to out-new wave each other with their apparel. Meanwhile, management has come up with a limited but strong menu that includes a good steak and a new homemade soup each day. (4515 Travis at Knox. 528-8880. Mon-Sat 11:30-2 am. Sun 6 pm-2 am. Reservations. AE, V, MC. $$)
FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS
Angelo’s. If Chrysler could turn out autos the way Angelo’s assembles and delivers lunch-hour sandwiches, there would be no need for a bailout The coordinator takes your order, dabs sauce on a bun and spins the bun onto a precise spot in front of the cutter. The cutter loads the bun with juicy tender meat, crowns it and passes it back to the coordinator, who wraps it without looking. The counter help hands you your sandwich, takes your money and yells “large.” A 12-ounce frozen mug of draft Budweiser costs 70￠: an 18-ounce mug of the same costs 80￠. That’s why the counter keeps yelling “large.” There is no better barbecued beef in Fort Worth than at Angelo’s. And there are a couple of sleepers here, too, known only to the regulars There hasn’t been a bargain around like the $1.20 hot link sandwich with sauce, pickles and onions since the demise of the nickel Coke. And the chili (steaming in temperature but not seasoning) is the best west of Tolbert’s. (2533 White Settlement Rd. (817) 332-0357. Mon-Sat 11-10. Closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $)
The Carriage House. This old standby offers a refreshing retreat from area steak houses that are big enough to accommodate basketball tournaments. The atmosphere in the two small crystal-laden dining rooms is not quiet, but it is relaxed nevertheless. The steaks are still the safest selections, and ours were prepared exactly as ordered. The tenderloin won best of show. The South African lobster tail was indeed large, as advertised, as was the price ($21.95). which was not advertised. Asparagus and broccoli were fresh, crisp and boring, the kind we used to eat to obtain permission to leave the table. The sautéed mushroom appetizer was delicious, but the entry on the menu should have included a warning label alerting hungry diners that consumption of the item would involve only two bites. The brandy ice, a successful blend of brandy and ice cream, is a nice winder-upper (5136 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11, Sun 6-10: Sun brunch: 11-2. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)
Hedary’s. Where else in Fort Worth can you sit down to a meal of hummus bit-tahini (chickpea dip seasoned with lemon and garlic), khyar bil-laban (sliced cucumbers in fresh yogurt) and a plate of magdoos (pickled eggplant stuffed with walnuts), followed by some kibbi mishwiyyi (crushed wheat and ground sirloin charbroiled with pine nuts and spices), and frarej (chicken and vegetables baked in olive oil and lemon juice), topped off with a slice of baklava and a cup of qahwi, a thick, aromatic Lebanese coffee brewed bitter or sweet depending on your mood? Hedary’s is intimate, a bit idiosyncratic and thoroughly old-fashioned in its methods. “No hot table, freezer, chemicals or can opener. ” says the menu, and we believe it The bread is baked while you watch, and the service can be fast or slow depending on how many Hedary children are on the premises. (3308 Fairfield. Ridglea Center off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817)731-6961. Tue-Thur 5-10. Fri&Sat 5-11. Sun 5-10. Closed Mon. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)
Joe T. Garcia’s. Joe T. Garcia’s lush patio reminds us of a Mexican hotel courtyard, with its old-fashioned swimming pool and well-manicured vegetation. (Patrons are not encouraged to swim ) The obvious family connection between most of the employees and the boss, who constantly directs the help in Spanish/English, lends atmosphere you won’t find elsewhere. The Dinner (no questions, no substitutions) matched item for item the No. 1 special at every pseudo-south-of-the-border joint in the Southwest: cheese and jalapeno nachos, tacos. cheese enchiladas, retried beans, a side of guaca-mole, soft tortillas and the usual hot sauce. To its credit. Joe T.’s is good at what it does Everything was fresh, and portions were generous. Worth particular notice: The margaritas were strong, not too salty and not sweet. The beauty of the surroundings is worth one visit to Joe T.’s, especially if you live in Fort Worth. But until the menu shows a little more variety, this will remain the Mexican restaurant to take your uncle from New Jersey to. not the line addiction a Mexican restaurant can become. (2201 N Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Mon-Sat 11-2, 5-10:30; Sun 4-10. Reservations for 10 or more. No credit cards. $$)
Reflections. The new Americana Hotel is trying hard to live up to its self-proclaimed world-class status. In our meanderings around the establishment, we have happened upon such pleasurable indulgences as complimentary crab claws and boiled shrimp during happy hour, and mixed nuts (with no peanuts) in the lobby bar To finance these delicacies, the hotel seems to be relying upon Reflections, its main restaurant, where entrees begin at $18 and all but two of the appetizers at $9. The coquille bonne auberge. a mixture of lobster, scallops, shrimp and mushrooms was tasteful, but we found the sauce (which had the consistency of mashed potatoes), to be somewhat distracting. The roast duckling was about as exciting as leftover turkey, and the peppercorn sauce did little to enhance it. But the filet de boeuf au poivre was a delight; the generous portions of beef were prepared precisely as ordered and enlivened by a remarkably successful marriage of cognac and pepper sauce. The accompanying snow peas-fresh, crisp and mixed with mushrooms-were equally satisfying. The cream of asparagus was clearly the cream of the crop among the soups And when all is said and done, save room for desserts; don’t miss the fresh blueberries flown in from France and buried in whipped cream. The focal point of the dining room is a pool with glistening mosaic tiles covered by two inches of water. The waiters get a real charge out of the occasional “sophisticated” diner who mistakes it for a dance floor. (Americana Hotel. 200 Main. (817) 870-1000. Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11 Closed Sun. All credit cards. $$$)
D Revisits Royal Thai. Those who have acquired a taste for Thai food at Dallas’ excellent Siam will be sorely disappointed by the misnamed Royal Thai. Only after assiduously searching the menu, will the alert diner find two Thai-style dishes: chicken curry and beef curry. We ordered both, and we were sorry we did. The chicken was littered with gristle, and the beef was tired and gray The standard Cantonese dishes we tried-crab meat Bangkok and moo goo gai pan-were overcooked and over-corn-starched. Service is surly and incompetent. (5700 E Lancaster. (817) 457-8865. Mon-Thur 10-10, Fri 10-11. Sat 4-11. MC, V, AE. $$)
Szechuan. Some like it hot. but Szechuan likes it hotter. The local Hunan/Szechuan boom has led tosome inevitable backsliding in seasoning, as somerestaurants slip in a pinch of Lawry’s seasoning saltto appease the more delicate American palate. Notso at Szechuan. where hot and spicy means exactlywhat it says. Our chicken with garlic sauce andshredded beef Szechuan style arrived smoking andsuperbly prepared. The Szechuan lamb was equallygood, and even the broccoli in oyster sauce, ordinarily a fairly bland dish, had a little extra zip. Eventhough Szechuan has a large menu, the chef is ableto accommodate individual preferences without difficulty If you want moo shi chicken rather than pork,or a bit more Szechuan pickle in your sautéed greenbeans, just ask. (5712 Locke Ave, oft Camp BowieBlvd. (817) 738-7300. Mon-Thur 11:30-10, Fri & Sattill 11, Sun 5-10. Reservations for 5 or more. MC, V,AE. $$)
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