RESTAURANTS DINING OUT

NINFAS. If you were in the Mexican restaurant business in Dallas, you would know all about Ninfas by now. And you would doubtlessly be intimidated. The Houston-based chain recently hit Dallas like the Normandy invasion, becoming one of the biggest Mexican food operations in town overnight by opening three locations with a combined seating capacity of just under a thousand. That massive opening put Ninfas in the league with the El Chicos and the El Fenixes before the paint on the newcomers’ numerous signs had dried. Fortunately for those of us who love good Tex-Mex, Ninfas is not in the league with the El Chicos and El Fenixes in terms of the quality of its food. Some of Ninfas’ better offerings, like the beef tacos a la Ninfa (called tacos al carbon elsewhere), the alambres (Mexican shish ka-bob), and queso flameado rank among the best versions of those dishes served in Dallas. Another stellar offering is Ninfas’ famous green sauce. One taste of this on a tostada and you’re likely to become a Nin-fas maniac.

Ninfas can be credited with creating one of the better gimmicks we’ve seen in a while, the “Off Menu Menu,” which offers the diehard Mexican food fan such esoteric entrees as caldo Xochitl (chicken soup with avocado and pico de gallo), veal Milanesa (Mexican style veal Milanese), and shrimp and cheese chili relleno. The first time the waiter offers you the Off Menu Menu, you feel like you’ve been offered a tremendous backroom deal nobody else knows about. Chefs Lydia Rubio and Juana Huerta, brought up from Houston to train an army of cooks, can be credited with a culinary coup in most areas.

That is not to say that Ninfas is without its failures. On one visit to the Greenville Avenue location, we found the frijoles to be downright tasteless. And the pork tacos à la Ninfa were consistently bland on several visits. Regardless of the pitfalls, Nin-fas can easily lay claim to being the largest purveyors of high-quality Mexican food in Dallas. Of the three locations, we suggest the Inwood Road branch (just off Stemmons), which seats 400 and is still relatively undiscovered because of its location. The Greenville outpost can almost guarantee you a wait before being seated, and when you are you’ll probably share our opinion that the management has crammed a few too many tables into loo small an area. (5960 Greenville Ave. 369-8973. 1515 Inwood Rd. 638-6865. 2250 Beltline Rd, Addison. 661-2671. Mon-Thur 11-2, 5:30-10; Fri 11-2, 5:30-11; Sat 12-11; Sun 12-10. Greenville location open till 2 am Fri & Sat and till 11 Sun- Thur. All credit cards. $$).

MR. A’S. If there were an award for the most improbable restaurant location, Mr. A’s would win hands down. Situated at the corner of McKinney and Lemmon, equidistant from a head shop and a topless bar, and within walking distance of Central Expressway, it’s hardly the sort of place you expect to find haute cuisine, much less reasonably good haute cuisine. Mr. A’s takes no chances with its menu, serving mostly textbook continental dishes such as veal Oscar, chicken Kiev, rack of lamb for two, accompanied by paté, onion soup au gratin, Caesar salad, and so on. If the overall script is drearily familiar, Mr. A’s does come up with an occasional surprise, such as a perfectly prepared red snapper Francaise (a filet in lemon and butter sauce with shallots and mushrooms) and lobster fra diavolo, which also happened to be the largest lobster we’ve met west of Portland, Maine. The chicken Kiev and the veal marsala are no better or worse than you’ll find in a dozen other Dallas restaurants. Lunch is an abridged version of dinner, with a few additions such as seafood crepes (excellent filling and dreadful pastry), and eggs Benedict (good hollandaise and stringy Canadian bacon). (3500 McKinney at Lemmon. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



TAIWAN. We’re still not sure what Taiwanese food is (a combination of the various mainland cuisines, we suspect), but it’s certainly good, and very different, something that can’t be said about many of the new Chinese restaurants in town. We suggest that you pass up the standard Cantonese items like won ton soup and sweet and sour pork, though they’re excellent, and begin with an order of cold aromatic beef or smoked fish marinated in rice wine. Even better are the dumplings, stuffed with meat and grilled lightly until the edges crinkle. As for the entrées, we were delighted with the rock salt prawns, deep fried and actually coated with rock salt; the crispy duck; and a marinated chicken dish named, the menu says, for a controversial general and gourmet named Tsao. Nothing controversial about Tsao’s chicken, however – it’s superb. A warning: The Hunan-Szechuan dishes are very, very hot at Taiwan. The Szechuan eggplant, with minced pork, was delicious, but both the sweet and sour fish slices and the sweet and sour beef left us gasping. The staff is eager to please, and seem genuinely apologetic when a special dish takes an extra few minutes to prepare. Considering the quality, we didn’t mind the wait. (6111 Greenville Ave. 369-8902. 11:30-11 daily. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

RMCOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion In this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $15 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC/Master Card, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diner’s Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.



CONTINENTAL



D Revisits Arthur’s. Arthur’s is two, two restaurants in one. To the right is a swinging jazz bar with a parquet floor for dancing cheek to cheek. To the left is a quiet dining room of understated elegance. The filets are a cut above steaks served elsewhere. The meat is so buttery and soft you can slice it with a fork. The best entree-mignons of beef Stanley-is also the most bizarre. Who would imagine a prime filet, topped with a dollop of creamy horseradish and a glazed banana, all in a béarnaise sauce would taste good? Diners knead to sample the bread. Baked fresh daily, the sourdough loaf has a crunchy crust and a chewy, yeasty interior. Watercress and endive salad looked like a Cezanne still life and tasted even better. But if the main courses put you in orbit, the desserts will send you crashing back to earth. The cheesecake was as dry as plasterboard and the chocolate velvet a turnoff. So large it needs an index, the wine list is a compendium of the finest California has to offer. So don’t forget to flag over the sommelier. (1000 Campbell Centre. 361-8833. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun-Fri 6-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Antares. The term haute cuisine is inapplicable to the food at Antares, save perhaps in its purely literal sense: The restaurant is located 560 feet above ground in the revolving dome of Reunion Tower. Scampi lacked the garlicky, spicy zing that most restaurants are capable of delivering, and the Rock Cornish game hen, stuffed with wild rice and served atop a layer of pate de foie gras, was palatable but far less interesting than it might have been, had the chef been interested. Steer clear of the veal steak Oscar, which consists of an utterly unseasoned slice of veal, topped with a thimbleful of crab meat, canned asparagus, and a ladleful of “béarnaise sauce” that had never been in the same room with any tarragon. Antares’ redeeming feature, aside from the incomparable view, is its desserts. The standout, praline cheesecake topped with lots of hot. thick caramel-pecan sauce and whipped cream, is worth the trip in itself. (300 Reunion Blvd in Reunion Tower. 741-3663. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2, Sun 11-3; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri-Sat 5-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Café Pacific. Dining at this classy Highland Park Shopping Village restaurant can be a good experience or a bad one, depending on how adroit you are at selecting the right entrées. We suggest you follow the cardinal rule for dealing with new restaurants: When dining in a fish place, order fish. It’s that simple. We sampled the scallops in wine, butter, and garlic sauce and found the clam chowder to be some of the best we’ve had in quite a while. The good-food/bad-food dichotomy seemed to follow the fish vs. non-fish line. Our cheese soup tasted of Velveeta laden with too much flour, and the pepper steak we tried was too peppery and overcooked. On more than one occasion we’ve had veal Marsala that consisted of good veal covered with bad sauce -too sticky and heavy. The decor of this restaurant, with dark woods, lots of brass, and sparkling white tile floors, puts Cafe Pacific almost in a class by itself. (24 Highland Park Shopping Village. 526-1170. Lunch: 11:30-2:30; Dinner: 5:30-10:30: bar till 1 am. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Chateaubriand. This old-line Dallas restaurant is really two establishments, one consisting of a large and attractive main dining room and bar-the other a small, garish, and Fifties-looking side room. Actually, the main area is titled “Club” (it’s not one) and the smaller room is titled “Dining Room.” The difference is important at lunch, when Chateaubriand is most popular, because unless you are a regular, you are likely to end up in the side room, and this can mean very bad ambience and service. Chateaubriand’s food is uneven, ranging from veal, seafood, and Greek dishes which can be very well-prepared to gristly pepper steak and chicken Kiev that looks and tastes like a large corny dog. While lunch in the small dining room was a bad experience, dinner in the main restaurant was excellent, with good service and live musical entertainment. Dinner is expensive, with a lunch menu nearly as ambitious as the dinner menu, but with lower prices. (2515McKinney. 741-1223. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

The Chimney. The Chimney has built its reputation on its veal dishes, and if our recent visits are any criterion, that reputation is well deserved. We tried lemon veal and the more adventurous veal picatta (medallions of veal with zucchini and capers) and found both superb, with subtle sauces. The Chimney is also one of the few restaurants in the area that serves venison, in this case tournedos from Montana that were as tender as any filet mignon. But once you’re past the veal and the venison the fare becomes quite ordinary. Our poached salmon steak was overcooked and underseasoned, the soups and salads only so-so, the rice and vegetables that accompanied each entree uninspired. One could say that while The Chimney keeps a sharp eye on its specialties it has little peripheral vision. (Willow Creek Center, 9739 N Central at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10:30, Sun 6-10. Reservations. MC, AE, V, DC. $$$)

Ewald’s. For years the food and ambience had made the dining experience here the closest most of us will come to having a home-cooked continental meal-served in the home of the chef. We’re glad to report that a recent renovation has essentially changed nothing but the wallpaper. The food is still consistently good, and the service is still excellent. We’ve always been partial to the veal dishes: Veal Jbn-Saud (veal in curry sauce), veal papagallo (veal stuffed with Canadian bacon, Swiss cheese, and sour cream), and veal steak au moulin (veal sautéed with mushrooms, cognac, and cream) are all on a par with the simple veal with lemon butter, which ranks with the best in the city. Another dish which Ewald’s executes excellently is pepper steak, darned in cocnac and served with crushed white pepper. The best out-of-the-mainstream dish you’ll find is the house shrimp du chef, a broiled shrimp dish served with a tangy barbecue-like sauce. Desserts are decadently delicious, expecially the Black Forest cake and the strawberries Romanoff. (5415 W Lovers Ln. 357-1622. Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat till 11. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)

The Grape. The Grape has been around so long now that it’s easy to forget how good it is. One way to jog your memory is to visit a few of the other wine bar/bistro operations that have followed in its footsteps. Few can match The Grape for atmosphere, a kind of hole-in-the-wall chic, or for food, which on nights when the chef is in top form isn’t far below the best in town. In addition to an obligatory mushroom soup fix, we had an outstanding beef filet with a delicate tarragon and butter sauce, superb scallops in a vermouth and cream sauce, and a baked breast of chicken in a delicious Dijon mustard sauce. Sauces, obviously, are big at The Grape, and the only ones that miss are the heavy, over-designed ones: Our veal with amaretto and peaches was hard on the palate, and even harder on the veal. The wine list gets longer and more ambitious all the time. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch: MonFri 11:30-2. Dinner: daily 6-11, late night menu Fri & Sat 11-1, wine and cheese till midnight. No reserva-tions. MC, V. $$)



Jennivine. Jennivine, which bills itself as “an English wine bistro serving fine wines and continental cuisine,” is always pleasant; if the food were as reliable, the place would be a real winner. In its favor, count the relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere; pretty enough decor; and friendly if sometimes inefficient service. Wines can be tasted before ordering by the glass, which is pleasantly educational. Paté au poivre-rough-textured, aromatic of pork, pungent with pepper-was terrific; we also enjoyed Saxon paté of lamb and raisins. Snapper, a fish-of-the-day selection, was perfectly cooked. On another visit, sautéed soft-shell crabs were of four-star quality. Against Jennivine, count muffed execution of what could have been fine dishes. Prawns Jenni were rubbery, and swordfish was dry and chewy. Veal with lemon butter was not properly sautéed, resulting in tough veal and a gluey flour coating. Desserts are bad news. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10:30, closed Sun & Mon. Reservations MC, V, AE. $$)

Old Warsaw. A sense of quiet know-how accrued from three decades of experience pervades this restaurant. That’s not to say the place is without its eccentricities of character-it boasts pink flamingo paintings and is capable of serving a side dish of potato chips in a little basket sculpted of French fries And how can a place create a Grand Marnier souffle that is unrivaled and still not be able to produce a decent vichyssoise? However, you can always get a meal of the traditional continental sort without a flaw; for example, start with the escargots, then a little steak tartare, followed by an entree of good ol’ duck a I’orange. There are a multitude of more exotic offerings, but a meal of old favorites somehow seems most fitting to this favorite old place. But don’t forget that you will pay the price, especially when you venture into the wine list which, despite some beautiful selections, ranks as one of the most absurdly overpriced in restauranldom. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Fri 6-10:45. Sat till 11:45. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)



Pyramid Room. There’s dinner theater and dinner opera, and the Pyramid Room is squarely in the sec-ond category. In addition to a setting that is straight from Aida, there are strolling violinists, occasional arias from the sommelier, and an assortment of props to accompany the main dishes. We’ve always enjoyed the smoked salmon and aquavit appetizer, and can now also rave about the steak tartare, mixed and seasoned to taste. But some of the other dishes we tried ranged from bad (a gluey shrimp Pernod, tough veal scallops topped with too much of everything) to downright awful (a desiccated seafood mousse, scallops and artichoke hearts in a lumpy cream sauce). You could argue that at these prices you shouldn’t have to put up with mediocrity, and you’d be right. But the Pyramid Room is still enjoyable for its impeccable service. (Fairmont Hotel. Ross and Akard. 748-5454. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: daily 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards.



D Revisits Patry’s. Your appreciation of this restaurant may ultimately center around how much you believe in the axiom that good things come to those who wait. On a recent visit we spent half an hour waiting in the bar for a table-even though we had reservations-and then spent 25 minutes anticipating the arrival of our waiter after we had been seated and given menus. That type of treatment is not totally extraordinary tor Patry’s, which has a loyal following and a tendency to be cold and forboding to newcomers. But if you have a high tolerance for indifferent service, you can eventually dine in high style at Patry’s. The food is consistently good. The best entree on the menu is the leeks stuffed with milk sausage cooked in cream, although the pepper steak is among the best in the city. We also like the crab Nantua and the grilled lamb chops. Patry’s entrees are complemented by an excellent selection of fine desserts and one of the better wine lists in Dallas. (2504 McKinney. 738-3754. Tue-Thur & Sun 6-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)



Three Vikings. If Vikings could eat this well at home, why would Leif Ericson want to go to America anyway? At Three Vikings, the quality of the entrees is among the best in town, and it’s hard to go wrong: There is crispy roasted duck with almond slices, served with a slightly sweet, piquant sauce; grilled salmon, properly moist, glazed with an amber sauce and topped with a dollop of dilled sour cream; filets of veal Norway, stuffed with mushroom filling and covered with a savory brown sauce. Appetizers are almost as good, with shrimp Erika and shrimp chowder the standouts. One would think that such obvious talent in the kitchen could produce creditable salads and desserts, but one would be wrong: Salads are feeble, and desserts disappointing. Chocolate cheesecake combines two great ideas, but the sum is less than either of them alone; and pineapple nut cake brings back school cafeteria memories of whipped cream surprise. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Dinner: Tue-Thur 6-10. Fri&Sat6-11. closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



DELICATESSENS



Kuby’s. Tucked away in Snider Plaza near SMU, Kuby’s is a gold mine of good German food. Homemade German sausage is Kuby’s specialty, and the bratwurst is proof of that. All that’s missing is a mug of cold beer: Although the walls are lined with decorative Bavarian steins, Kuby’s is in a dry area. (You’ll have to go to Kuby’s Ratskeller in the Meadows Building to get brats and beer.) The fresh desserts are consistently good: the cheesecake light and lemony, the Black Forest cake always fresh. And before leaving, browse the store for homemade wursts and baked goods. Kuby’s also has a lot of interesting imported foodstuffs, and if you’re into the language, you can pick up German fashion or news magazines. (You’ll hear a lot of German spoken here.) (6001 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Mon-Sat 8-6, sandwiches till 5:30. No reservations. MC, V tor purchases over $15. $)

Shalom’s. An authentic clientele of big machers dine to the strains of “Bei Mir Bist Du Shoen” while Marc Chagall posters stare down from the walls. Foodwise, we didn’t find much to kvetch about. Sandwiches are served on fresh marbled rye and are piled high with cold cuts. Both the pastrami and corned beef were sliced very, very lean. Creamy chopped liver, loaded with hard-boiled eggs, teamed up with tongue for a triple-decker delight. A smoked whitefish, flanked with ruby red tomatoes, purple onion rings, and salty black olives, was flaky, juicy, and arrived with head and tail intact. And the lox-oy vay. Salmon-colored and delicate, a sample of the finest nova that once swam the seas. Only schlemiels would pass up the cheese blintzes, the Jewish version of stuffed crepes. Take a pass on desserts, though. Cheesecake was dry and pasty, and brownies were cloyingly sweet. (6045 Forest Ln at Preston. 386-5620. Daily 8:30 am-9 pm. Bar by membership. No reservations. MC, V, $)



FRENCH



Calluaud. Never mind pronouncing the name; Calluaud (try Calley-oh) offers an understated elegance of setting and service unsurpassed for soothing the savage diner. Even on occasions when entrées are less than stellar-as in the case of the somewhat tough veal chop and oversalted stuffed chicken with morels-appetizers and desserts make it possible to dine well. To leave feeling happy, we recommend starting with scallops in white wine and cream sauce (a far better choice than the uninspired salads) and finishing with a souffle (chocolate and hazelnut are both winners) or, when available, fresh raspberries with whipped cream-a dessert that is the stuff of dreams. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Lunch: Tue-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat seatings at 6-7 and 9:30. Closed Sunday. Reservations only. All credit cards. $$$$)



D Revisits Jean-CIaude. The “new” Jean-Claude restaurant is really not much different from the old: a little more breathing room, a few more tables, and a slightly glossier finish. But the kitchen (much of the cooking is still performed in view of diners) still reigns. With a simple dish like lamb chops, for example, Jean Claude slices the chops thinly from the rack, pan sautés them (instead of broiling), and serves them with a fantastic baked puree of lamb. The boneless quail stuffed with liver paté is the best treatment of this bird we’ve found in Dallas. The veal Calvados is thick-sliced (3/4 inch), unlike the usual thin version-and better. Appetizers were flawless, including an unrivaled duck paté and scallops in garlic cream sauce that leave you licking the remaining sauce from your spoon. Vegetables are served generously but were unexceptional: desserts, too (including an uninspired Grand Marnier souffle) were a bit of a disappointment. But the service as always was impeccable. Cost remains price fixed at $25.50, which still has to be considered something of a bargain. (2404 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Dinner: Tue-Sat seatings at 6 and 9. Reservations only. MC, V, AE. $$$)



La Cave. La Cave doesn’t try to compete with French heavyweights in terms of having an extensive menu and the most highly starched tablecloths in town. Instead, it settles for serving a few very well-prepared food items and a large wine selection. The paté maison is among the best you’ll find in Dallas, as are the gazpacho, French onion soup, salade Nicoise, and artichoke stuffed with shrimp and caviar. But if you’re looking for lobster or rack of lamb, look somewhere else. La Cave is more of build-your-own menu snacking place where you can order a bottle of wine, some cheese and apple wedges, and then start adding items until you’ve satisfied your appetite. The only item we recommend you skip is the cold prime rib plate. Cheesecake also leaves much to be desired. (2926 N Henderson. 826-2190. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, cheese and wine only 2-5:30; Dinner: Mon-Fri 5:30-11, Sat food service noon-11:30. Retail wine sale Mon-Fri 10 am-midnight, Sat 10:30 am-mid-night, Sat 10:30 am-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Le Boul’ Mich. Le Boul’ Mich makes a pleasant first impression that, unfortunately, fades from memory once the food arrives. It isn’t so much bad as boring, like a bowl of TopFrost vanilla ice cream. The best dishes are usually the most conventional and straightforward-quiche, red snapper meunière, steak Parisien. But as a rule the chef has a dietician’s contempt for seasoning, and complete indifference to stylish presentation. Imagine sitting down to a meal of cream of mushroom soup, scallops au gratin, haddock bonne femme (actually very tasty), and a glass of Chablis. The experience could easily be confused with snow blindness. But the bread is still good, the wine list is reasonably priced, if limited, and the atmosphere cheerful and intimate. Le Boul’ Mich is at its best late at night, when all you really want is a light meal and a relaxing view. (2703 Worthington. 826-0660. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-5; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10. Fri & Sat till midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)



D Revisits Le Rendezvous. The expansion and refurbishment of this once-small bistro is the best thing that could have happened to the place. Before, it was small and intimate. Now that the size has doubled, the intimacy is still not lost. What’s been added, in addition to more tables, is an air of formality that makes the place seem like exactly what it is-a first-class French restaurant. The kitchen delivers consistent quality with a number of veal dishes and one of the better pepper steaks around. The cold salmon platter is excellent, although on more than one occasion we’ve been baffled to find that the salmon with béarnaise was a bust because the salmon was too dry. The shrimp Pernod, which has long been excellent, still is. Le Rendez-Vous excels in service: waiters are efficient but not hovering. The combination of atmosphere, food, and service is as good here as at any restaurant we’ve visited in quite a while. (3237 McKinney at Hall. 745-1985. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat 5:30-1 am. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V. AE. $$$)



INDIAN



India House. Let’s face it: Not that many Dallas diners know the difference between alu tikki and chicken tandoori. Selections like these are not exactly part of the American culinary mainstream. But even if you don’t know what you are eating at India House, you’ll discover one thing quickly: It’s very good. Both the chicken and beef tandoori, marinated delights served with a shovel-sized portion of fluffy rice, are tremendously tasty, if extremely filling. And the appetizers, such as chicken chat-chunks of chicken served with mint chutney-are superb. Abundant fresh-from-the-oven breads are excellent. India House even offers a surprisingly reasonable ($3.95) lunch buffet, which sometimes gets a little unorganized when the crowd starts to outnumber the waiters by too large a ratio. Dinner service, however, is extremely attentive. Save room for dessert; the cheese balls in sweet milk are delightful. (5422 E Mockingbird. 823-1000. Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11. Reservations. Accepts all credit cards. $$)



ITALIAN



Campisi’s. Seven days a week the line at Campisi’s forms by 6 pm, and from then till closing time this neighborhood institution fills tables as quickly as they can be cleared. If Campisi’s were a Broadway show it would be The Fantasticks: The kitchen and service have been good for years, and thousands of patrons know it. First-timers might try the combination plate, which consists of heaping helpings of ravioli, lasagne, and spaghetti, or else the manicotti with ricotta and meat sauce. Campisi’s also turns out meaty crab claws and a tender, subtle veal Marsala. Salads accompany each dish, and be sure to ask for the special garlic bread. Campisi’s cheesecake is dry, but the Black Forest cake is a must. (5620 E Mockingbird. 827-0355. 827-7711. Mon-Fri & Sun 11 am-midnight, Sal till 1 am. Reservations for 6 or more. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

II Sorrento. There are better Italian restaurants in Dallas than II Sorrento, but none can match the overall dining experience. The setting is a Hollywood back lot version of Venice, complete with canals, fountains, and strolling violinists. Everything is so outrageously overdone that the only appropriate response is applause. The same kind of bravura is apparent in the menu, which offers a dozen dishes in each of a dozen categories, some excellent, others very ordinary. On recent visits we had superb scampi Giovanni (shallots, mushrooms, and bread crumbs) as well as excellent veal Sorrento and braciola. In the very ordinary category was a provolone marinara appetizer heavy enough to crack a plate, and a fettucine Alfredo that had a delicate sauce but rubbery noodles. Our hot antipasto was indeed hot, but only the stuffed eggplant merited more than a polite nibble. So. definitely an unpredictable restaurant for food, but a plus for fantasy. (8616 Turtle Creek, north of Northwest Highway. 352-8759. Daily 5:30-10:30, Sat till 11:30. Reservations except Fri & Sat. All credit cards. $$$)



D Revisits Pietro’s. Bring a hearty appetite; you’ll be served at least double portions of everything. Our order of veal Parmigiana consisted of a hefty green salad, two large veal cutlets coated with a thick layer of melted cheese and lots of tomato sauce, and a side order of spaghetti. The smallest pizza available is the 10-inch gooey, thick crust, Sicilian-type- just the right size for a professional linebacker. Nothing we tasted was exceptional, but just about everything was good. The fettucine alla romana was a little too noodley, and the artichokes hearts vinaigrette were more leaves than hearts and more vinegar and garlic than either, but Pietro’s Sicilian home-style dishes rank with the best. Don’t bother with dessert, even if you still have room. The crème de caramel was heavy, the Italian cheesecake too spongy, and both were topped with too much spray-can whipped cream. Service is pleasant and attentive and the atmosphere quiet and unassuming. (5722 Richmond. 824-9403. Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun & Mon. No reservations. Beer and wine only. MC, V. 11)



Lombardi’s. How can a restaurant establish itself as one of the best in the city without offering a single entree that is the best version of that dish to be found in Dallas? Simple consistency. While nothing on Lombardi’s extensive menu is in the extraterrestrial range, just about everything served there is very good. The result is the most uniformly satisfying cross section of Italian dishes in town. And when the waiters tell you how glad they are to see you and ask you if your meal is all right, they make you feel they mean it. We recommend any of the veal dishes and cannelloni. Some of) the pastas can be a bit heavy; the linguini with white clam sauce is a little too much like Portland Quick-Set Concrete for our tastes For a lighter meal, the frittate (Italian omelettes) are quite good, with the spinach and cheese frittata the best. The soup of the day is one of the few non-Italian offerings you’ll find; the homemade mushroom soup is excellent. Be prepared for a line. (2815 McKinney. 823-6040. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Mario’s. Elegantly orchestrated, dinner at Mario’s is magnificent. From the simple, spicy antipastos- succulent, fresh crabmeat, for example; or rich escargots; or shrimp Mario, perfectly seasoned sautéed shrimp-through dessert, a meal at Mario’s is an event to be savored. We’re convinced that Mario’s lasagna is the best we’ve ever had. with layers of ricotta wrapped in spinach pasta and sauced with bechamel. Then again, the sole with shrimp is delicate and light, bathed in a creamy sauce. Desserts are notable, in particular, the flaming strawberries over ice cream, and a selection of fluffy liqueur soufflés. The service at Mario’s deserves special mention; it’s thoroughly attentive and helpful with no trace of the supercilious, patronizing air marring the service at some fine restaurants. (135 Turtle Creek Village. Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations. Jackets required lor male customers. All credit cards. $$$)

Sergio’s. Having praised Sergio’s pasta before, we’ll praise it again; it’s the best around, especially the linguine. tortellini. and manicotti. We’ve had some reservations about the fettucine-a bit gluey -but none whatsoever about the veal dishes, which make up the bulk of the menu. Whether it’s the veal Giorgio (in a vermouth and tarragon sauce), the sal-timbocca, or the standard veal Marsala, all are seasoned and pounded to perfection. The cannoli is overproduced, a dessert designed by Busby Berkeley, so we usually content ourselves with something basic like cappucino pie and espresso. Lunch is less inspired-so-so salads interspersed with an occasional outstanding special like veal Marengo, a spicy veal stew. We also wish the interior looked less like an abandoned card shop and that Sergio would turn off the Muzak. (Suite 165. The Quadrangle. 742-3872. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2, Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. MC. V. AE. DC. $$)



MEXICAN



Café Cancun. Café Cancun has so much going for it-attractive surroundings in peachy hues and a Mexico City-style cuisine that’s lighter and brighter than standard Tex-Mex-that we hesitate to cavil about its small failings. The main dishes, especially the unusual pork tacos, with or without chile ancho sauce, are reliably good, but the attention to detail that made the place such a joy when it opened seems to be waning: On our last few visits, the tortillas had lost their fresh chewiness, the salsa its cilantro. and the meat its succulence. Even so, nothing here is a bad bet (with the possible exception of the shaving cream-like coconut ice cream), and this variation on the theme of most Mexican restaurants in town is still a winner. (4131 Lomo Alto. 559-4011. Mon-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. MC, AE, DC. $)

Chiquita. At this old favorite, the standard combination dinner offerings are fine (with the exception of the burritos, which are to be avoided). But what sets Chiquita apart from its competitors are the specialties. Nachos you can get anywhere. Here, you can get tortilla soup-rich, oniony tomato broth with tortilla strips and melted white cheese. After that, we’d advise ordering the beef, which is of unimpeachable quality: Filete de la casa, for instance, is a tender and flavorful filet mignon cooked with garlic and hot pepper. Chicken and seafood specialties are less successful, to |udge from the tough broiled breast of chicken with lemon butter and the pescado mari-nero (spinach-stuffed whitefish topped with oysters and shrimp with a heavy cheese sauce blanketing all). Finish with Kahlua ice cream pie, which belongs in the Dessert Hall of Fame. (3810 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Frl & Sat till 11. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

El Taxco. A standing-room-only crowd at noon doesn’t always mean what you might think. If El Taxco were located near a superior restaurant it would probably dry up and blow away. Instead, El Taxco is only a couple of blocks from an El Fenix, so by comparison the food is tremendous. And El Taxco Is the only good Mexican restaurant within walking distance of Thanks-Giving Square. Stick with the basics-enchiladas, tacos, tamales, chiles rellenos, guacamole-and you’ll be glad you came. Venture away from the standbys, and you’ll probably feel that you’ve been had. Our chicken enchiladas, for instance, were bland; the chicken was too stringy. Our carne asada was mediocre, even though its price wasn’t. One specialty which succeeds is the tos-tadas a la McCaffrey, made with guacamole, ground beef, sour cream, lettuce, tomatoes, and several other tasty Ingredients. El Taxco has cleaned up Its act on its once horrible margarita, and Is now serving a creditable version. (2126 N St Paul at McKin-ney. 742-0747. Wed-Mon 11-10, closed Tue. No reservations. MC, V. $)



D Revisits Guadalajara. If you’re Into culinary hedonism, one level of nirvana has got to be to plant yourself in one of the red leatherette booths of this raunchy-chic palace and enchilada your way into oblivion. This is truly great Tex-Mex; The staple items like tamales, enchiladas, guacamole, chiles rellenos, and frl-joles are all superior, as are some of the semi-esoteric Mexican dishes like chicken with mole sauce. But we’ve had enough bad experiences with some of the more expensive dishes like carne asada that we discourage venturing too far from the mainstream of the menu. One of the best things about Guadalajara Is its hours-the place is open till 3 am. And although after midnight it can look like a haven for Alcoholics Anonymous dropouts, Guadalajara is one of the only places In Dallas where you can get quality food after hours. (3308 floss Ave. 823-9340. Tue-Sun 11 am-3:30 am, closed Mon. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



Harare. The waiting lines are long, the surroundings cramped, the decor tacky; and Herrera doesn’t take credit cards or serve liquor. What Herrera does serve is basic, down-to-earth Tex-Mex. In fact, some of the standard touches are the best-creamy guacamole, hot sauce guaranteed to raise your temperature a few notches, retried beans and rice that are spicy and satisfying. The tacos, burritos, loaded “crazy nachos,” and chicken enchiladas can’t be beat. Herrera does suffer from a few minor problems. The beef enchiladas, for example, are filled with a bland beef paste, and some dishes are accompanied by a floury, uninspired cheese sauce. Other dishes (including the nachos) are marred by a rubbery, latticed overlay of greasy, congealed Cheddar. With the closing of the somewhat Anglicized Herrera on Lemmon. the original cafe can perhaps concentrate on what it does best: satisfy diners’ taste for good, no-frills Tex-Mex. (3902 Maple Ave. 526-9427. Mon, Wed, Thur 9-8, Fri-Sun till 10, closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

La Esquina. The prices here are higher than most honest restaurateurs would dream of asking ($ 10.95 for a combination Mexican plate), but there are redeeming factors that make an occasional visit worthwhile. The view inside the cavernous glass atrium Is great, and the food is holding its own: light, tasty guacamole, respectable chiles rellenos, enchiladas, and tacos. Highbrow dishes like carne asada and camerones (barbecued shrimp) are well prepared and seasoned, and there’s an unusual standout on the menu as well-tacitos, which are fried tortillas stuffed with sweet and spicy beef. There’s also a consolation for those offended by the high prices: They don’t get higher for dinner than they are at lunch. (Loews Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Fwy. 748-1200. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3; Dinner: dally 6-10:30. Reservations for 10 or more. All credit cards. $$$)

Mario & Alberto. This place has the same type of offerings found at restaurateur Mario Leal’s home base. Chiquita. The staples like enchiladas, burritos, guacamole, and tacos are all well above the Dallas standard, as are the carne asada and the chile relleno. Ordering these old standby dishes from the menu is like investing your money In Exxon stocks; you know you can’t lose. As is the case at many restaurants, however, straying away from the well-worn path of entrées is a gamble that doesn’t always pay off. Try the calabacitas rellenas (zucchini stuffed with ground beef and covered with cheese) and you lose; it’s a good entrée idea which the chef just can’t execute-our zucchini took a steak knife to cut. But the few negatives on the menu are well overshadowed by the overall high quality of the entrees and the warm and attentive service. (LBJ at Preston. 980-7296 Mon-Thur 11:30-10, Fri & Sat till 10:30. No reservations on Fri & Sat. MC, V, AE. Drinks with $5 membership charge. $$)

Raphael’s. Granted, the chicken and sour cream nachos are divine, but on a Saturday night, we’d rather be bowling than sitting around Raphael’s back room sipping lime-green margaritas out of a mixer as big as a Maytag and listening to the names of the about-to-be-seated broadcast over a microphone. Better, we think, to hit Raphael’s on a week-night, when the wait is a mere 15 minutes, not a grueling 90, and the service unhurried. After being disappointed by some of the more complicated specialties-among them, an inauspicious flaming cheese, dried-out shrimp enchiladas, and an unlikely polio Tampiqueno-we advise heading straight for the simple and/or Tex-Mex. Our favorites Include the assorted appetizers, featuring splendid nachos and tiny flautitos; a great guacamole loaded with cilantro; any of the chicken or beef enchiladas; and the enchiladas topped with a spirited mole sauce. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640. Mon-Fri 11:30-10:30, Sat noon-10, closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. MC, V, AE. $$)



NATURAL FOODS



Marvins Garden. If natural food restaurants bring Annie Hall visions of plates of mashed yeast to mind, take heart. Marvins Garden offers a variation on two common restaurant themes: pizza and Mexican food. Pizza, you say: That’s junk food. Could Mr. Jim’s pizza, a garden of fresh vegetables and cheese on a whole wheat crust be considered junk food? Mexican food, however, Is the real forte of this Intimate cafe. Starting with outstanding creamy garlic dressing over a dinner salad, we had a most satisfying meal. Quesadillas filled with flavorful soft white cheese are covered with a ranchera sauce. Cheese enchiladas come filled with the same cheese and are covered with bean chill sauce or ranchera sauce, which we prefer. Good Mexican food can usually be Judged by the quality of the rice and beans It keeps. We weren’t disappointed here: The black beans, though short on garlic, are well prepared, and the brown rice is the best we’ve tasted. (6033 Oram at SKiIIman. 824-5841. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; Dinner: Sun-Fri 5:30-11, Sat 2-11. No reservations. MC, V. $)



ORIENTAL



Asuka. If you prefer your Japanese food without culinary Juggling acts and the clanging of steel blades, Asuka is a pleasant surprise with its atmosphere of traditional understated Japanese elegance. We suggest sharing a la carte items, since the quantity and variety of food in the dinners is overwhelming. Try the sashimi (raw fish) for an appetizer: The tuna and salmon tasted pure and satisfying; only the mackerel lacked the freshness essential to sashimi. In addition to offering typical dishes such as teriyaki, shabu shabu, and sukiyaki, Asuka does a fine job of preparing Japanese specialties such as roasted pompano. For those still desiring a show with their meal, the ami yaki provides a tasty pyrotechnic feast: Lean strips of beef are cooked at your table and then dipped into a garlic and soy barbecue sauce. The fish and vegetable tempura in crispy deep-fried batter is also a good choice. Dessert is fried ice cream, and ice cream was never meant to be fried. (7136 Greenville between Park and Walnut Hill. 363-3537. Lunch: 11-2; Dinner: 6-11, closed Mon. Reservations. MC, AE. $$$)



D Revisits Bo Bo China. No matter that this place apparently had the same interior decorator as Don Carter’s All-Star Bowling Lanes; on food alone, this may be the best Chinese restaurant in Dallas. We’ve yet to find a disappointment on a rather massive menu. If you want haute cuisine, try the excellent Peking duck (which must be ordered a day in advance). If you want a fast but tasty lunch, try one of the half dozen lunch specials like bell pepper beef, which at $2.75 a plate have to rank among the best buys in the city. Most of the main dishes include a superb won ton soup, although we suggest trying the sizzling rice soup, which is even better. Another standout is the “pot stickers,” which are Chinese-style dumplings filled with pork. Servings are large enough that you’re likely to need to take part of the meal home, which management is happy to facilitate. The fact that Bo Bo China is so good is no longer any secret. The waiting lines in the evening have been consistently long enough that another Chinese restaurant has sprung up across the street to try to catch the overflow. (10630 Church Rd at LBJ Fwy. 349-2411. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11-2:30; Dinner: Sun, Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri & Sat till 11. No liquor license, brown-bagging allowed. No reservations. MC, V. $)



China Coast. China Coast has all the charm of a mini-warehouse, with bar, disco, TV screen, and dining rooms piled on top of one another, separated only by a row of fish tanks. And yet despite its chaotic appearance, China Coast delivers so consistently that it deserves to be ranked among Dallas’ top Oriental restaurants. We recommend the seafood dishes, especially the green jade scallops, whole fish in spicy sauce, and Lake Tung-Tin shrimp. Standard Hunan-Szechuan dishes such as lamb with green onions and diced chicken with peanuts are also well above average. As important as anything else is China Coast’s care about basics such as rice (moist but not gooey) and garlic sauce (with a trace of ginger) and shrimp toast. There’s also a. smattering of standard Cantonese dishes; although not bad, they’re not nearly as interesting as the house specialties, (2930 Northwest Highway at Bachman Blvd. 350-6282. Mon-Thur 11:30-11. Fri & Sat till 2 am, Sun 11-11. Reservations. MC, V,AE.$$)

Hunan. Selecting from the large menu of this restaurant specializing in the spicy cuisine of the province of Hunan is like throwing darts: You may hit, and leave thinking you have dined splendidly, or you may miss, and leave feeling thoroughly dispirited. On one recent visit, our food wasn’t even on the dart board. Appetizers were among the worst we’ve ever had (Entrée portions are extremely generous, so appetizers can easily be skipped.) Diced chicken with peanuts was tender, with crunchy peanuts, but the pieces of gristle were unforgivable. River Shang pork was blandly forgettable. On another visit, we were in luck. Shredded pork with garlic sauce was inspired, with black mushrooms, chopped scallions. and julienned water chestnuts in a delicious, garlicky sauce. Lake Tung-Tin shrimp was tasty, although we could have done without the limp, overcooked celery. (5214 Greenville at Lovers Ln, 369-4578. Sun-Thur 11:30-10:45, Fri & Sat till 11:45. MC. V, AE. $$)

Sakura. What with the geisha dancing in the tatami room, the schmaltzy piano bar music downstairs battling the koto music played in the rest of the place, and the slashing, clanging, and sizzling of the chefs upstairs, the diner at Sakura feels transported to a three-ring Japanese circus. The only trouble is if you want a table at a restaurant, not a seat in the big top. But for feats of skill and daring, the sushi chef didn’t disappoint us. With the deft hands of a master, he sliced perfect pieces of impeccably fresh raw seafood and served them atop rice We were disappointed only by most of the more standard Japanese offerings, with the exception of chicken kara-aga. deep-fried sesame-coated morsels. The sushi bar is definitely the center ring at this circus; the side shows are best avoided. (7402 Greenville near Walnut Hill. 361-9282. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: daily 6-11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



D Revisits Slam. If your forays into Oriental food have been confined to Chinese and Japanese restaurants, exploring Siam should be high on your list of priorities. At its best, Siam offers the bright clear tastes of Thai food at prices that afford extensive reconnaisance; even at less than its best, it offers more than passable versions of standard Oriental dishes. But it is foolish to eat anything other than the extraordinary Thai dishes available here. Since the help is Thai and the dinner menu extensive and confusing, it is wise to order by number. Among the best choices are 103 (marinated and broiled skewered pork with peanut sauce and cucumber salad). 110 (hot and sour soup tangy with lemon-grass), 127 (rice noodles sauteed with pork, shrimp, and a multitude of aromatic ingredients). 137 (a rosy chicken curry with coconut milk, bamboo shoots, and fresh mint), and 154 (perfectly juicy roast duck) The location and decor are funky, and service is often slow, but Siam’s food is well in the irresistible range. A lunch menu offers more limited choices. (1730 Mockingbird near Harry Hines 631-5482. Mon-Sat 11 am-11 pm, closed Sun MC, V. $)



SEAFOOD



Crazy Crab. The standout of the menu is definitely the Dungeness crab, served with a tangy sauce and a large wooden mallet, which is the only instrument that will allow you to extract the tender and tasty white meat from the shell Hammering your way through a course of Dungeness crab is more than just filling; it gives you a certain sense of accomplishment alter you’ve smashed those formidable-looking crab claws into a pile of harmless shells About the only unsuccessful medium for crabmeat here is the crab chowder, which is pasty and under-seasoned A good choice is “Too Much,” an eclectic sampling of oysters, clams, shrimp, sole, and scallops in various states of fried, broiled, and boiled. No one could eat it all and still have room for the excellent Key lime pie. A staple with almost every order is the “seaweed.” a dumb name for some of the best thin-sliced onion rings you’ll find in Dallas. (3211 Oak Lawn at Hall 522-5310 Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm, Fri till 11. Sat 5-11, Sun 5 10. No reservations. MC, V. AE, DC. $$)

D Revisits Bourbon St. Oyster Co. Bourbon St Oyster Co. presents the well-scrubbed facade of a New Orleans-style oyster bar, but the piped-in Dixieland jazz music can’t cover for the lack of soul in the cooking. The gumbo, a true measure of the heart of a Creole chef, was a Good Housekeeping-style rendition. It wasn’t bad, but lacked the earthy richness that is so satisfying in good gumbo. Frog legs “Bobby” was overspiced, so as to mask the subtle flavor of the meat, and eating the accompanying irregularly cooked rice hazarded a trip to the dentist with a broken tooth. But boiled shrimp and oysters on the half shell were fine. And the fresh swordfish steak was exquisite, the ne plus ultra of fish, with perfect consistency and flavor. We are puzzled by the disparity of quality in cooking and hope that chef “Bobby” will remedy the blahs of his standard Creole dishes. (Caruth Plaza Shopping Center, corner of Park Lane off North Central Expy. 363-2333. Mon Sat 11:30-11. Sun till 10. AE. MC. V. $$)



Fausto’s. In this plush, dark expense-account haven, simplicity wins every time. In other words, the less done to the food, the better. Seafood on silver (boiled shrimp, crab claws, and raw oysters) is a better appetizer choice than tough, overcooked clams casino. And lobster, broiled or steamed, is superior to any of the more elaborate entrees we tried, among them red snapper in sour cream and dill, lemon sole meuniere, and scallops and shrimps pa-prikasch. The house white wine, a Chantefleur, is a fine accompaniment to seafood Of course, simplicity has its price: The lobster, when available, is $12 a pound But if you’re here, you’re not counting pennies. Service is skillful and, for the most part, unobtrusive. If you order coffee, though, you may be sorry: The waiter will make it at your table, and the results are not worth the production. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner; daily 6-11:30; Sun brunch 10:30-2:30. All credit cards $$$$)

Jozef’s. Jozef’s is to Dallas seafood restaurants what Calvin Klein is to jeans-chic, expensive, and when it is on, absolutely top of the line. It’s difficult to imagine a simpler yet more elegant meal than smoked freshwater trout with horseradish sauce, followed by charbroiled fish, perhaps scrod or swordfish, with fresh strawberries and cream for dessert. Jozef’s also serves an outstanding ceviche (raw fish marinated in lime juice and spices) and an even better boiled Maine lobster, seasoned only with lemon and butter. The fancier dishes, on the other hand, are less dependable. The sauce on our shrimp Pernod was bland and gluey, and our bouillabaisse (a fish stew) was unseasoned and overstocked with a peculiarly tasteless variety of sea scallop, an odd turn since Jozef’s serves excellent scallops proven-gale. And forget the turtle soup. The hosts are gracious and obviously run a tight ship because the service is quick and cordial. But the wine list is still too aristocratic, with the majority of bottles in the $15-$25 range. (2719 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: Daily 11-2:30; Dinner Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till 11. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Oysters. Oysters remains successful by offering a limited but very adequate seafood menu. The interior is pleasant, and although no reservations are accepted, the wait is not long, even on a Friday or Saturday night. The fresh fish, which includes red snapper, scrod, flounder, and sole, is good, with flounder the best. The raw oysters and the fried shrimp are excellent, but the best part of the meal may be the appetizers, including outstanding fried zucchini and eggplant, as well as “spicy shrimp dip” and gumbo. The cole slaw, “natural” French fries, and hush puppies which accompanied the meal were very good, but desserts-lemon chess pie and carrot cake-were disappointing. A tip for those who don’t like seafood-the hamburgers are delicious. With friendly and efficient service. Oysters is a pleasure. (4580 Belt Line Road, 386-0122. Mon-Thur 11:30am-10pm, Fri till 11. Sat 5-11. Sun 5-10. MC. V, AE. $$)

S&D Oyster Company. The line is usually long; the dining room is too noisy for romantic conversation; the desserts are consistently bad. If these minor hitches will keep you away from S&D, that’s fine with its fans, who swelter, freeze, and get drenched, depending on the season, waiting in line for the best seafood in town You can find places where it costs more, you can find places that are more tony, but you can’t find a better plate of fresh fish. Even fried shrimp, the child’s greasy delight, was the best we have ever had. Boiled shrimp and red snapper are also good choices. And the oyster loaf sandwich, though too large to eat easily, was worth the battle. (Ask to have it cut in two.) Though the dining area looks to have been a warehouse in an earlier life, it is comfortable and charming, with waiters and a lone waitress bustling about in traditional black and white uniforms. These kind and professional people give S&D class. However, nothing so complimentary can be said of the desserts. There was something fishy about the ice cream, and the cheesecake could have been retitled cheese and egg cake. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm. Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)



SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES



Broussard’s. The name may sound fancy, but the place isn’t. Expect disposable dinnerware and a cafeteria-style line Between the down-home service and the Cajun music on the jukebox (not to mention the excellent food), you can’t help feeling you’ve somehow stumbled into a transplanted Louisiana back-roads eatery. We especially relished the spicy etouffée and generous plates of boiled shrimp. The French fries, with their skins still on, were as good as French fries can get; the fried oysters, supreme. If you go early, about 5 or 6 pm, you can catch the line at its low point. Incidentally, this is a good place to stoke up before traveling the nether reaches of the turnpike between Hampton Bulk Mail Center and the first glimpse of the Fort Worth skyline. Bring your own liquor, in brown bag, of course. (707 N Belt Line Rd in Irving, 1 mile S of Rte 183. 255-8024. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10, closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $$)

Celebration. A return to Celebration is like visiting an old friend. The limited but dependable menu stresses home cooking: fresh trout, meatloaf, pot roast, baked chicken, and spaghetti. The meats are served family-style, with a large bowl of salad and side dishes of vegetables shared by each table. The best things about Celebration besides the food, which is predictably good, are the generous portions, backed by frequent offerings of second helpings and the service, which is efficient and friendly, without being cute. With all this going for it, you might expect to wait at Celebration-and unless you come early, you will. Celebration is an excellent family restaurant, with reasonable prices for children. It’s still too bad they’re not open for lunch. (4503 W Lovers Ln. 351-5681. Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11, Sun 5-10. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Crawdaddy’s. Someone finally realized how noxious cedar air freshener can be to the palate, and told the busboy to quit spraying it around. The difference is delightful-we could actually taste the crawfish and catfish and shrimp we ordered. Crawdaddy’s gets points for being the only dependable source of mudbugs in town, and for having learned to cook beignets the right way. (Now, if they’d only cut them smaller than feather pillows.) The catfish we had, as well as the crustaceans, was moist, well-prepared, and worth the money. The dinner salad, with the house dressing, was generous and crisp, as well as being lovely to look at. The help, good-natured but lackadaisical, didn’t know the difference between coffee with chicory and coffee that is simply bitter. We have never had any luck getting anything but the latter. (2674 McKinney. 748-2008 Mon-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sat noon-11, Sun noon-10. MC, V. AE No reservations. MC. V, AE $$)



D Revisits Highland Park Cafeteria. HPC is the great equalizer of Dallas society; here, anyone can obtain the satisfaction of knowing they possess what others desire-in this case, a place in the front of the serving line. No small feat this, as the line can at times be monumental, inspiring whopper tales to rival those of the most bragadocious of fishermen. Why the demand for cafeteria food, you say? HPC has broken the No. 1 tenant of cafeterias, that food must be rendered either bland or soggy, preferably both, before serving. Salads are fresh and varied (try the chopped spinach salad or tomato aspic with homemade mayonnaise). The chicken-fried steak and fried chicken are complemented by fresh biscuits and homemade gravy in the best Texas tradition Vegetables are properly cooked, not steamed into compliance, with the squash casserole, the eggplant casserole, and pinto beans our favorites A warm buttered zucchini muffin finishes the meal nicely, but HPC bakes up quite a respectable buttermilk pie and good brownies HPC’s food is not memorable, but it is consistent and sets the standard for cafeteria food in Dallas. (4611 Cole Ave. 526-3801 Mon-Sat 11 am-8 pm, closed Sun. No liquor. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



Sonny Bryan’s. At Sonny Bryan’s, the entire interior is color-coordinated to remind you that the room is a giant flue. Everything is the color of smoke: the walls, the floors, the windows, and the flies. You either have to sit on a plank bench or in your own car after you give your order to a humorless person who responds with “What initial’’” as her only spoken words, leaving you to stand in a gang of fellow barbecue zealots waiting to hear your name called. You want it Suffer for it Anybody who is a Sonny Bryan freak will fight you to the grease-stained floor in its defense as the greatest barbecue joint in town. The beef is excellent, with a generous serving at $1.80 per sandwich. The place is grimy, the clientele strange, the staff surly. But the beer is cold and the barbecue is at its earthy best Just like the good ol’ days-1910 to be exact-says the barely visible sign, when the first Bryan barbecue was served up. Probably the same year they washed the windows. (2202 Inwood 357-7120 Mon-Fri 8-5, Sat 11-3. Sun 11-2. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



STEAKS, BUROERS, ETC.



Chili’s. The big tip-off to Chili’s atmosphere comes once you’re finally inside and find most of the hired help rushing around in tennies. Added to the loud and constant shouting from the kitchen, it requires a conscious effort to keep from joining the frenzy and gulping food and drink. The burgers, if you take the time to enjoy them, are consistently good You’ll go through three or four napkins to finish a messy Muy Macho burger, which oozes mustard, lettuce, onions, tomato, pickles, cheese, and hickory sauce. The chili is just greasy enough to give crackers a raison d’etre, and it’s a perfect partner to an icy mug of beer One disappointment The soft tacos were stuffed with more lettuce than chili, and the cheese was all but missing. You can expect long lines almost any time of the day on weekends, but you can beat the crowd for an early lunch during the week. (7567 Greenville at Meadow. 361-4371. Walnut Hill & Stemmons 350-8890 4291 Belt Line in Addison. 233-0380. Sun-Thur 11 am-11:30 pm, Fri & Sat till 1:30 am. No reservations, no carry-out. MC, V, AE. $)

Hoffbrau. Nestled in the center of the fern-bar belt, this salute to steak’n’taters is a welcome haven for the carnivore. We notice, with some delight, the absence of any healthy green stuff: No bizarre presentations of fried mushrooms, zucchini, or the infamous fresh spinach salad. The Hoffbrau sits directly across from Highland Park Cafeteria: The parking is the worst, the atmosphere one of the best. Smacking of Austin, the interior offers rough-cut wood beams stained with use, neon beer signs, and Texana to the tenth power including stacks of long-neck boxes full of return deposit bottles. The menu touts a top-end price of $9.95 for a 24 oz. cut of meat as big as a hubcap and goes down to a chopped sirloin for $3.95. These dishes come with giant-cut steak fries and a no-nonsense salad with house dressing which includes micro-olives. The steaks are pan-broiled in a lemon butter sauce that evades detection until you dip your sliced white bread in the tasty gravy. (3205 Knox at McKinney. 559-2680. Mon-Fri 11-11. Sat & Sun 5-11. MC. V, AE, DC. $$)

Kirby’s. Kirby’s is a Dallas institution that recalls what dining out meant before there were fern bars and bistros and waiters named Frederick who arrive with menus disguised as broadhead axes Back in the late Forties, when Kirby’s opened, eating out meant a big slab of red meat served in a dark room, accompanied by a lettuce and tomato salad, a baked potato, Texas toast, and maybe chocolate ice cream for dessert. If there were any problems, your waitress, dressed up like your favorite aunt, took care of them immediately. And the tab was generally under $20 for two. Kirby’s has retained most of these admirable traditions including, almost, the prices. And even though they’ve added a few fancy items, like a jumbo seafood platter, you can tell their heart really isn’t in it. The best choices are still the strip sirloin, the blue-ribbon filet with bacon, and the tenderloin cooked medium rare. (3715 Greenville. 823-7296. Tue-Sun 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till midnight. Closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)



D Revisits T.G.I. Friday’s. There are originals and there are copies. Friday’s is an original. With the best glorified junk food in town, its mark has been made. A new menu in dictionary form will boggle the mind of any newcomer, although regulars usually know what they want long before they are seated. Among appetizers, potato skins with cheese and bacon are addictive, as is the fried zucchini. Sixteen varieties of burgers and nine other sandwich choices dominate the entree list. Remember to save room for dessert. The Outrageous (hot fudge nut pudding cake with ice cream, whipped cream, and nuts) is a favorite, as is the carrot cake. One small problem-Friday’s philosophy that any order should be completed in twelve minutes or less is an embarrassment to the establishment. We have never made it out of the place in less than an hour. Also, remember this isn’t McDonald’s, so it isn’t cheap. Expect to spend at least $10 for an average meal-the new menu brought new prices. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville. 363 5353. 5100 Belt Line, Addison 386-5824. Daily 11:30 am-2 am; Sun brunch 11 -2. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)



FOOT WORTH RESTAURANTS



Angelo’s. In our impossible dream, we drive to this faded-wood structure, park beside the door, stroll leisurely past the moose head and stuffed bear in his baseball cap, collect a plate of barbecued beef, and dine-at our own pace-in one of the red plastic booths. Impossible because in reality a line of barbecue-lovers snakes past the moose and bear right out the door, and we wait. Always, we wait. Many claim Angelo’s serves the best barbecued beef in Texas. True or not. the beef, ribs, and sausages are good enough to pack the place day after day. Angelo’s quality and its beer-joint atmosphere haven’t changed in the 20 or so years we’ve been going there. The slabs of beef are tender enough to be cut with a plastic fork, the ribs juicy and lean, the sausage just spicy enough. But Angelo’s trump card is the sauce-a secret recipe, of course. Sandwiches only at lunch. (2533 White Settlement Rd. (817) 332-0357 Mon-Sat 11-10, closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



D Revisits The Carriage House. This old standby offers a refreshing retreat from area steak-houses which are big enough to accommodate basketball tournaments The atmosphere in the two small crystal-laden dining rooms is not quiet, but is relaxed nevertheless The steaks are still the safest selections, and ours were prepared exactly as ordered. The tenderloin was the best of show. The South African lobster tail was indeed large, as advertised, as was the price, $21, which was not advertised Asparagus and broccoli were fresh, crisp, and boring, the kind we used to eat to obtain permission to leave the table The sauteed mushroom appetizer was delicious, but the entry on the menu should have included a warning label alerting hungry diners that consumption of the item would involve only two bites. The brandy ice. a successful blend of brandy and ice cream, is a nice winder-upper, especially for those who have difficulty choosing between dessert and after-dinner drinks. (5136 Camp Bowie (817) 732 2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: daily 6-11, Sun 6-10; Sun brunch: 11-2. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



Cattleman’s. The setting is more than appropriate; it’s ideal Lodged amid the false-fronted old buildings adjacent to Fort Worth’s stock pens and barns and the rodeo arena. Cattlemen’s probably would succeed as a restaurant even if the steaks weren’t the best in town, which they are. Our favorite time to go is during Fort Worths annual stock show, when the place is jammed with Western-garbed visitors. More often than not, diners find themselves seated under the baleful gaze of former stock show grand champion steers, many of which ended their brief reigns as kabobs and T-bones on Cattlemen’s tables. We chose the sirloin and tenderloin on a recent visit. Both were prime and tasted like it. They came with fist-sized baked potatoes, hot bread, and a cold salad with an excellent Parmesan-based dressing. Cattlemen’s steaks and service remain as good as ever. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945 Mon-Fri 11-10:30, Sat 4:30-10:30. closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur. Alt credit cards $$$)

Hedary’s. Hedary’s may be Fort Worth’s best restaurant, and it is certainly its most unusual. Where else can you sit down to a meal of hummus bit-tahini (chickpea dip seasoned with lemon and garlic), khyar bil-laban (sliced cucumbers in fresh yogurt), and a plate of magdoos (pickled eggplant stuffed with walnuts), followed by some kibbi mishwiyyi (crushed wheat and ground sirloin char-broiled with pine nuts and spices), and frarej (chicken and vegetables baked in olive oil and lemon juice), topped off with a slice of baklava and a cup of qahwi, a thick, aromatic Lebanese coffee brewed bitter or sweet depending on your mood. Hedary’s is intimate, a bit idiosyncratic, and thoroughly old-fashioned in its methods. “No hot table, freezer, chemicals, or can opener, ” says the menu, and we believe it The bread is baked while you watch, and the service can be fast or slow depending on how many Hedary children are on the premises Worth a trip to Fort Worth anytime. (3308 Fairfield, Ridglea Center off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-6961. Tue-Thur 5-11. Fri & Sat 5 till midnight. Sun 5-11. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)



Kincaid’s. In this grocery-cum-hamburger-stand. there’s no seating, no fountain soft drinks, and very little air conditioning But hamburger aficionados crowd in for the right stuff: real meat, real thick: just-sliced tomatoes, generously distributed: pickles that crunch resoundingly: and grilled buns. Diners sharing the counter top with us swore the other choices, including fried vegetables, catfish, salads, and cake, are just as good as the hamburgers. But how anyone can muster the will to order cauliflower amid those hamburger smells is a mystery Adding to the satisfied air of the patrons are the attentiveness and good cheer shown by the counter help and the neighborhood air of the place. 1200 meat patties a day sizzle on the grill, but there’s nothing mass-produced about the greetings regulars get. (4901 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 732-2881. Mon-Sat 10-6:15. closed Sun No reservations. No credit cards. $)



Massey’s. Warning: Don’t order the à la carte chicken-fried steak for lunch unless you have time for a siesta. The portions are huge, and it tastes too good to leave any behind. From the outside, Massey’s could easily be mistaken for a hardware store or a second-hand shop. You won’t be distracted by frills here. The menu advises that in the interest of conservation, water will be served upon request There are no pepper shakers: tables are stocked with the original pepper cans. At lunchtime, you get chicken-fried steak, salad, two vegetables, and homemade biscuits The tender meat is cooked with a heavenly breading and topped with yellow creamed gravy, just the way they do it on that great spread beyond the sunset. The French fries are the kind you eat and then begrudge the lost space The assembly-line salad consists of wilted lettuce and bulk dressing Massey’s offers a variety of foods, even seafood and Mexican dishes, but to go here for something other than chicken-fried steak would be like going to the Grand Canyon to see the chipmunks. (1805 Eighth Ave (817) 924-8242. Daily 8 am-10 pm. Reservations for 10 or more MC, V. $)

Old Swiss House. An oasis in Fort Worth’s heavy-beef desert thanks to Walter Kaufmann, the only local chef who can be trusted with sauces more complicated than red-eye gravy. He’s deft in the opening courses-a light touch of garlic in the escargots (not on the menu, though he occasionally prepares them as a specialty) and excellent salads, although we would prefer a choise of dressings Then the entrees: goulash with mushrooms swathed in Burgundy sauce, and from Walter’s extensive bag of veal tricks, escalopes aux champignons. Both were excellent One complaint: the waiters They’re competent enough, but just once, we’d like to catch one smiling. (5412 Camp Bowie. (817) 738-8091. Mon-Thur 6 10, Fri & Sat till 10:30. Reservations. MC, V. AE, DC. $$$)

Szechuan. Some like it hot, but Szechuan likes it hotter. The local Hunan/Szechuan boom has led to some inevitable backsliding in seasoning, as some restaurants slip in a pinch of Lawry’s seasoning salt to appease the more delicate American palate Not so at Szechuan, where “hot and spicy” means exactly what it says Our chicken with garlic sauce and shredded beet Szechuan style arrived smoking, and superbly prepared. The Szechuan lamb was equally good, and even the broccoli in oyster sauce, ordinarily a fairly bland dish, had a little extra zip Even though Szechuan has a large menu, the chef is able to accommodate individual preferences without difficulty If you want moo shi chicken rather than pork, or a bit more Szechuan pickle in your sauteed green beans, just ask The decor is typical off-the-shelf Chinese, but service is cheerful and reasonably prompt. (5712 Locke Ave. off Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 738-7300. Sun-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sal till midnight. MC, V, AE. Reservations for 5 or more. $$)