Autumn Adjustments

AS THE TEMPERATURE COOLS, and the tanned face you’ve been brushing a little blush on every morning fades, you may be thinking about real makeup again. A bare face can’t compete with strong fall wardrobe colors; a subtly colored face adds a polish and glow you can’t attain in any other way. And with the onset of the Eighties, more pastel makeup is coming into focus, according to Peter Anthony, makeup artist at L’Image. To give you some ideas on the new color emphasis and how to interpret it, Peter makes over our model Leslie from scratch, giving tips on product application along the way.

To start Leslie’s fall face, Peter applies Lunar Pink foundation from Christian Dior, with a Jerome Alexander makeup sponge. He works from the bottom of her face up, to assure an even finish. He also puts a very small amount of foundation on her eyelids, to provide a base for shadows. “I usually just touch the lids with the sponge and use up whatever is left,” Peter explains.

Foundation is followed by Dior’s Anti Cern highlighter under the eyes. Highlighter can also be used to advantage over nose lines and the chin for evening, Peter says. Always apply highlighter over foundation; its effect is obscured if it is used under makeup.

To give this basic makeup a soft, matte finish, Peter dusts Leslie’s entire face with Stagelight loose face powder on a large makeup brush. The powder finish over a makeup base is a good idea anytime your makeup must last for hours without a touchup. Peter recommends using a large sable blush or powder brush. “Madeleine Mono’s brushes are good,” he says.

To accentuate Leslie’s cheekbones and pick up where summer’s natural blush left off, Peter next applies Fidje, a René Guinot of Paris blush, below the cheekbone. This cinnamon-like color is combined with the high pink of Dior’s Rose Bengal on the upper cheek area, to provide subtle but effective contouring.

Rose Bengal, a very light pink blush, is a good example of the move toward brighter pastels in cosmetics. “In the Seventies, we had lots of dark-look makeup -heavy and serious,” Peter says. “The Eighties will be a more simple, serene look -more pastels and more emphasis on the mouth.” Emphasis on one feature tends to draw heavy color away from the others, except in the case of an evening makeup such as this one, when all stops are pulled out.

Eyes will also enjoy a new set of colors for fall. Peter predicts. “Look for fuchsias, yellows’, and teal blues,” he says. Shadows will also return to a more iridescent look, refuting the flat, matte look of years past.

For Leslie, Peter strokes Dior’s Italian Rose on the inner corners of the eyes, and follows it with Estée Lauder’s Venetian Teal beneath the eyes and in the outer corners. Dior’s Golden Russet and a light finishing touch of beige shadow below the brow complete the lids.

The final task in finishing Leslie’s eyes is an application of Lancome mascara. Peter’s instructions: Coat the upper lashes’ tops. Allow them to dry. Apply again, but from underneath upper lashes, from roots to tips. Allow this to dry, then carefully apply mascara to lower lashes, avoiding smudging highlighter.

To put the perfect, up-to-date finish on Leslie’s makeover, Peter colors her lips with a stick called Frantic Fuchsia from Madeleine Mono. Because Leslie’s lower lip is thin, he also extends her lip line just a shade beyond its natural contour with a lip brush.

The look Peter has given Leslie is appropriate for an evening out or dressy occasion. His suggestions for daytime makeup: Keep it simple and soft. A good combination for day wear is Dior’s Sandy Beige foundation, Dior’s Fig cheek color, and a Chamois Brown eye pencil from Coty. “Smudge the pencil on the outer corner of the eye,” he advises. The finishing touch – Estee Lauder’s new Russet Tile lip color.

For a more sophisticated afternoon look, or for the professional woman who needs a finished appearance, Peter suggests the Sandy Beige foundation combined with Passionate Pink blush by Elizabeth Arden. This blush should be applied high on the cheekbone to give a healthy, slightly flushed look. Accent the eyes with the Arden collection of Tempting Teals. Peter suggests covering the lid with a bright turquoise from this group and adding teal to the outer corner of the eye, shading inward.

Of course, all these suggestions require some tailoring according to your own facial coloring. If you aren’t feeling up to playing mix and match at the makeup counter, consultants are available at varying rates for slightly differing services. Peter Anthony, whose work is featured here, offers makeovers including a facial and face chart showing where to apply the colors. His services cost $35 an hour at L’Image, 3128 Harvard Ave. 522-6230.

Other Dallas salons offering makeovers include:

Creative Images. A 35-minute makeup lesson includes a full facial, a how-to chart to take home, and a recommendation of products suited to your skin type, all for $25. 5230 Greenville Ave. 369-4344.

Neiman Marcus Beauty Salon, downtown store. A 45-minute makeover with a mini-facial for $40 is offered, as well as a 45-minute makeup lesson for $25 and a full facial and makeup lasting one and a half hours for $45. 1618 Main St. 741.6911.

The Hair Co. This all-organic products salon offers a one-hour makeup class for $50. Before and after photos are taken, and the artist does one half of your face and shows you how to do the other half. Central Expressway at NorthPark East. 361.7826.