RESTAURANTS Dining Out

Ceviche, bouillabaisse, and Maine lobster on McKinney.



JozeFs. This good-looking little restaurant is more elegant than most seafood places, its service more attentive, its prices a bit steeper. Which is to say that it falls somewhere between S&D and Fausto’s – not a bad idea at all. Though Jozef’s had been open less than a week when we dropped in, the kitchen seemed to have its act together, especially with appetizers. We, tried several, and were impressed with the consistent quality, though the crab Remick (lump crabmeat with herbs) and the highly spiced ceviche, redolent of peppers and lime juice, stood out over the others. Among the entrees, the high points were the bouillabaisse and the steamed Maine lobster, which could easily have been tricked out or manhandled and wasn’t. The two-pound beauty we ordered arrived split in half with lemon and butter and was among the best we’ve been served in Dallas. On the other hand, the crab omelette was pretty stingy for $5.25. Worse, though, was the fact that JozeFs was unable to produce a decent fish filet in three visits; we had the snapper broiled at lunch and fried at dinner and had trouble telling the difference between the two. Beyond that, the only real complaint concerns the wine list, which offers no bottles for under $10 and no French whites for under $24; your wine will cost somewhere between two and four times the price of your entree, in other words, which seems ludicrously out of scale. But JozePs is doing most things right, and if you stick to a bottle of beer you’ll be able to afford a return trip for the wonderful ceviche. (2719 McKinney. 826-5560. Lunch: daily 11-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till 11. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)



The Wine Press. Oak Lawn’s bar bistro is at J. Alfred’s former location and adds a potentially agreeable combination of ambiance, drink, food, and a seven-day-a-week schedule to the Dallas landscape. There’s an admirable selection of imported and California wines, all sensibly priced, as well as an extensive selection of beers and potables. The handsome Parisian Art Deco bar suggests a place that knows its business, although my “up” martini was not served in a chilled glass. The Wine Press menu is well balanced, but at the moment the food offerings seem to reflect good intentions combined with some unfortunate lapses in execution. To wit: The gazpacho is excellent, but the vegetable soup the evening we tried it was an oddly seasoned, weak minestrone. The pork paté Doré (chicken livers) was excellent but came encased in soggy pastry. The London Broil was tender and rare but was not enhanced by being served on a partial loaf of French bread. The Chicken Espanada, rolled chicken breast stuffed with artichoke and seasoned with pimiento, was tasty, but the Chicken Miramar, a sautéed chicken breast, was overcooked. The omelettes were light and moist, but the filet of sole was frozen and a waste of time. So, this little place, though promising, definitely has a ways logo. As for service, the bar waiters are attentive and competent, the food waiters not always so. Dress code: No T-shirts or old jeans. (4127 Oak Lawn. 522-8720. Daily 11-2. Full menu served until 10 pm. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)



Soup’s On. It would be a pleasure to report that this new lunch spot on Olive, between Plaza of the Americas and 2001 Bryan, was a new star in the northeast quadrant, but at the moment it isn’t living up to its pretensions, which seem to be vaguely cafe French. As the name suggests, the house specialty is soup, and of the ones we’ve tried – they change daily – we like the cabbage stew, very thick and spicy, the navy bean, the beef stew, and, some days, the onion, all of which are accompanied by some baker’s parody of a croissant. We should also mention an overpowering English bread soup that would be entirely forgettable except that it takes most of the day to digest it. Like every other lunch spot in town, Soup’s On serves several kinds of quiche, mainly of the bland, custardy variety that makes you wonder why quiche is so popular. As for the salads, nearly as numerous as the soups, we recommend the chilled, steamed vegetables with vinaigrette dressing and the spinach salad, and discourage trying the salade Nicoise, which never quite comes together on the plate and has no anchovies besides; it seems that when Soup’s On gets chic it gets into trouble. But at least it’s trying to serve more than standard lunch fare; that, plus quick service and good value, are its main assets at the moment. (708 Olive. 651-0787. Mon-Fri 7-2:30. No Reservations. No credit cards. $)

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining. It is implicit that we recommend all of them highly.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $15 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC/Master Charge, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diner’s Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.



CONTINENTAL



Antares. The only difference between dining at this restaurant atop Reunion Tower and having a meal on a 747 is that Antares doesn’t wrap your silverware in cellophane. The view is just as breathtaking, and the food just as bland as anything a flight attendant ever pulled from a microwave. Our appetizer of crab soup was instantly forgettable, our scampi and broiled red snapper dry, and the prime rib only a cut above what’s served at Bonanza Steak House. Antares is not without its small successes. The baked onion soup is worth trying and the chocolate mousse (made with white chocolate) is quite good. The best bargain is for children: Their entrees cost half the adult portion price, and they’ll be so busy looking out the windows they won’t notice what’s on their plates. (Reunion Tower at the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 741-3663. Lunch: 11-2; Dinner: 5-midnieht. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Arthur’s. Unfortunately, two benefits that haven’t been forthcoming here for months now are consistently fine food and service. On our last visits, Arthur’s served much that was good (smoked salmon, broiled shrimp and scallops, lamb chops, roast duck with black bing cherries) and a few small bursts of excellence (watercress and endive salad, fresh asparagus with hollan-daise, and – no joke – yam soup). A few other dishes were well below par, including woody broccoli, bland lobster mousse, and lukewarm lobster tails. Overall, the kitchen’s performance was relatively reliable but in no way breathtaking, which doesn’t quite cut it when dinner for two can easily cost $65. Unless you look like you might own Republic Bank, expect a rough ride. (1000 Campbell Centre. 361-8833. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun-Fri 6-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

The Chimney. Make reservations: Homestyle atmosphere and superb Swiss-Austrian food have built the Chimney a loyal following, and the place is usually overflowing. Lunch is like a formal meal at a relative’s – it includes an obligatory first course of bouillon and cheese wafers – though the food is probably a lot better. We loved the scallop casserole, with white wine sauce over rice, and the chicken breast with orange-almond sauce. For dinner, you might try venison (the only place in town you can get it) or one of the veal offerings, like lemon veal or veal ricotta. The calf’s liver is legendary – thick, tender, and topped with perfect onion rings. Save room for dessert. Service is pleasant, though sometimes bordering on stuffy. (Willow Creek Ctr, 9739 N Central at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10:30, Sun 6-10. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)



D Revisits Chateaubriand. There’s a time for everything, and Chateaubriand’s time seems to have been yesterday. The once solid mainstay of the Dallas continental cuisine circuit has slipped a few notches, possibly because it’s been resting on its reputation. The most obvious problem is the service, which can range from indifferent to downright hostile and is consistently condescending. We just don’t like waiters who voice their opinions about what we order. Some of the Greek dishes, like Greek veal with lemon butter and oregano, can be good, and our veal Oscar was well prepared. But the broiled scallops we ordered arrived cold and tasteless, and the pepper steak was mediocre at best. The positive side of Chateaubriand’s menu is that is does contain all the old standbys for a splurge: Maine lobster, roast prime rib, broiled Chateaubriand. But be prepared to pay handsomely for them. A simple shrimp cocktail at lunch, for instance, costs $6. Also, don’t try to eat lunch here in a hurry; the service can be as incredibly slow at noon as it is in the evening. (2515 McKinney. 741-1223. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Ewald’s. Long one of the most comfortable restaurants in town, and though we sometimes wish it were more adventurous, there’s no arguing with a good thing. The food is consistent and well prepared, especially the beef and veal dishes; among the best are the veal papagallo (a cutlet stuffed with Canadian bacon, Swiss cheese, and sour cream), the veal with lemon butter, and the tenderloin tips a la Ewald (with mushrooms, green pepper, onion, and pimiento). The pepper steak seems to be invariably good. For appetizers, we recommend the shrimp du chef (broiled in a tangy sauce), priced the same as a shrimp cocktail but much better. The Black Forest cake is the best of several excellent dessert selections. (5415 W Lovers Ln. 357-1622. Mon-Fri6-10:30, Sat till 11, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V. $$$)

The Grape. This small, dimly lighted restaurant remains one of (he best for leisurely and dependable, sometimes inspired, meals. The menu lists numerous imported cheeses, available in combinations with fruit or singly, a superb fresh mushroom soup, and the usual sandwiches and salads. Chalkboard listings vary, including such entrees as beef au chasseur, sauteed in a lovely white wine and garlic sauce with tomatoes and mushrooms, veal cordon bleu, and the like.

Seafood dishes are not a strong point here: We’ve been disappointed by dried out soft-shelled crabs in lime juice, and a filet of sole smothered in an acidic tomato sauce. The Grape recently expanded, taking over the beauty parlor next door and converting it into an elegant wine bar. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-11, wine and cheese (ill midnight. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

Jennivine. Given its early days as a quiche-and-C hablis spot, Jennivine has come a long, long way. Our recent dinners have included a rare roast leg of lamb (hardly a standard locally), fresh scallops with lemon butter, and respectable red fish and salmon steak. Pates are featured, with good reason – the paté au poivre and salmon pate were excellent (and available over the counter). It’s worth noting, however, that as a wine bar Jennivine continues to do virtually nothing right; they should clean out the dogs and stock up on a few good wines to do justice to their wonderful chef. Still, this is one of the few restaurants in town where a couple can eat well for less than $30. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Tue-Sat 1:30 am-11:30 pm, closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)



D Revisits Patry’s. “Steady as she goes” must be the motto here. Which is fine, except that we wonder if Patry’s hasn’t decided that experimentation plays no part in the restaurant business and settled into a permanent policy of fine-tuning. Certainly it’s hard to orchestrate an imaginative meal for yourself here, since the list of appetizers includes nothing more exciting than stuffed leeks and the entrees nothing more outre than sweetbreads. On the other hand, dining at Patry’s is virtually risk free, and that feature obviously still sells it. On our last visit, we had well-prepared basics like crab Nantua and stuffed leeks, endive salad, pepper steak, and grilled lamb chops – all good, and some – especially the leeks and pepper steak – very good. Like most of Dallas’ older French and Continental restaurants, the service is attentive, even gracious; unlike most others, the decor is rather cold and formal. All in all, no triumphs here, and no disasters. (2504 McKinney. 748-3754. Tue-Thur&Sun 6-10:30, Fri &Sat till 11. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Old Warsaw. A hardy survivor from the Fifties, still savvy enough to roll over most of its younger competitors. Some of the nicest surprises are the little things: Brie soup, a salad of Belgian endive and watercress, and a side dish of wild rice so flavorful it will probably ruin you for any other kind. As for the main offerings, we’ve had an excellent steak tartare, fish mousse in mersault sauce, lamb chops, and tournedos in a sauce of red wine and shallots – all classy, all good. The Grand Marnier souffle is legendary. Like most elegant and successful restaurants with a large business clientele , Old Warsaw features flawless service and an outrageously overpriced wine list. Unlike any other, it throws in a refreshingly down-to-earth sommelier with a Salvador Dali moustache. One of the city’s very best. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Fri 6-10:45, Sat tilt 11:45. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

Pyramid Room. If man could live by appetizers alone, our first choice would be the smoked Irish salmon with chopped egg, capers, onions, and a glass of aquavit at the Pyramid Room. For simple elegance, it is unsurpassed – and quite foreign to the spirit of the restaurant as a whole, where caviar is served in elaborate ice sculptures and entrees are accompanied by windmills and various carved animals. Since there’s no way to ignore the show, sit back and enjoy it. After the salmon, you might try an endive and Boston lettuce salad, a filet bordelaise, and a Grand Marnier souffle; if you prefer a different scenario, try the beef consomme with sherry (simple and superb), a filet of sole en cro?te and sliced oranges in Amaretto. It’s now possible to find many of the Pyramid Room’s main dishes prepared as well or better in other Dallas restaurants, but the overall dining experience remains unique: When you’ve finished you know you’ve eaten out, and there’s a lot to be said for that. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross and Akard. 748-5454. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-1:30; Dinner-daily 6-9:45. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

Three Vikings. This place has the kind of intimate, homey feel that would probably win you over even if the food weren’t as good as it is. The grilled salmon with dill sauce and the filet of sole Anders are outstanding, as is the roast duck with almond sauce, a new favorite, and the Swedish steak, a thin tenderloin covered with onions and a rich gravy. The sauces are the culinary high points here, all prepared by the owner’s son, Anders, with exceptional subtlety and restraint. Our only complaints at the moment are so-so salads and occasionally dull vegetables; the once-mediocre wine list has improved considerably in recent months. By now, the word is out on Three Vikings, so be prepared to wait unless you have reservations. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-11; Sun brunch: 11-3, closed Mon. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



DELICATESSENS



Kuby’s. Where else in Dallas will you find such animated polyglot service accompanied by tips on knish baking, sausage stuffing, herring pickling, and a dozen other matters of interest to aspiring gourmets? As for the food, it’s still as reliable as any in town: an impressive selection of wursts and cold cuts, superb soups, hot potato salad, steak tartare, and pastries rich enough to immobilize an army of Valkyries. But perhaps the easiest way to understand Kuby’s appeal is to drop by on a Saturday when the doors are jammed open by mobs of shoppers and the whole place takes on the character of a street carnival. This, almost as much as the food, is what draws people to Kuby’s: the sense of participating in a genuine old-world food fest in the middle of an emphatically new-world city. (6001 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Mon-Sat 8-6, sandwiches till-5:30. No reservations. MC for purchases over $15. $)

Wall’s. A cheerful, albeit slightly dingy deli with the best cheese blintzes in town. At midday, Wall’s hospital green back room clatters with the soup-and-sandwich bunch, but the best time to go is Sunday morning, when serious eaters meet for hours on end of schmoozing and fressing. You might order a combination platter of smoked fish (it’s not on the menu, but you can work something out); the best is the fragrant barbecued salmon, followed by the Nova Scotia salmon and lox. Add to that an order of herring in sour cream, scrambled eggs with lox and onions, apricot danish, juice, and coffee; this comes to about $20 and feeds two or three. The baked goods are not up to snuff, but all else seems good by local standards. Oddly, Wall’s closes at 6:30, just when we’re nearly ready for dinner. (10749 Preston near Royal Ln. 691-4444. Daily 7 am-6:30pm. Reservations. MC, V. $$)



FRENCH



La Cave. The city’s first wine bar is still the best, with wine specials on chalkboard, a cellarful of reasonably priced alternatives at the back, and a menu that doesn’t run out after the standard array of patés and cheese boards. La Cave’s versions are often better than you’ll find elsewhere, but they also offer a cold artichoke with homemade mayonnaise, sausage sandwich, avocado stuffed with shrimp, and a number of other delights. The French onion soup (Wednesdays only) is a legend, and we’ve sampled excellent tomato mushroom, split pea, and a highly spiced chicken vegetable as well. The only real disappointment is the sliced cold prime rib, which requires working around too many ribbons of congealed fat. (2926 N Henderson. 826-2190. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, cheese and wine only 2-5:30; Dinner: Mon-Fri 5:30-11:30; Sat continuous food service noon-ll:30; Sun 5-11. Retail wine sales Mon-Fri 10 am-midnighl, Sat 10:30 am-midnight; Sun 4-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)

Le Boul’ Mich. From the sunny, restored house with patio behind right down to the china and cutlery, care and class are the keys here. Unfortunately, le Boul’ Mich sometimes acts as if it were the only good-looking restaurant in town, and as if that were enough. You can get better steak Parisien, quiche, veal, soups, you name it, at a dozen places in town, perhaps half of which are in le Boul’ Mich’s neighborhood. The only thing you can’t get better anywhere is bread – a crusty, coarse-grained loaf that the Fixodent set had better leave alone. Add a pot of sweet butter and a glass of wine and the meal gets off to a good start, at least. The best entree we’ve sampled is the haddock bonne femme, nicely cooked with a light cream sauce; apart from that, you take your chances. (2704 Worthington. 826-0660. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri& Sat till midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)

Jean Claude. Right up there with the best, always good, often brilliant, and never merely an also ran. The menu changes nightly, but let’s just say that if you’re offered a choice of Maine lobster in white wine and butter sauce, or rack of lamb, or veal tournedos with green peppercorns, or poached salmon, say yes. Add to that the salmon mousse, which has become our favorite appetizer. There are, in fact, only a few miscues among Jean Claude’s offerings (our chocolate souffle didn’t,’and the shrimp in brandy sauce sounded better than they tasted). Everything else, from the service to the loaves of coarse, thick-crusted bread of impressive weight and taste to the after-dinner port (a Quinta do Noval 1963) was first rate. (2520 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Dinner: Tue-Sat, seétings at 6 and 9. Reservations only. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Calluaud. Calluaud prefers quiet elegance and understatement to whistling sommeliers and pyrotechnical displays with chafing dishes, which is fine with us because over the long haul it delivers as well or better than the city’s more flamboyant restaurants. A list of absolutely dependable entrees includes rack of lamb, filet mignon with hearts of palm, veal chop, and médaillons of veal. But the menu contains many small, unsuspected pleasures as well: A duck paté en croute, red snapper mousse, roast duck with fresh pears and port sauce. The chocolate and strawberry souffles, however, aren’t the best in town. Service is cordial, with occasional lapses at peak hours. Calluaud no longer serves lunch, so you’ll have to stay up later to enjoy it. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$))

Le Rendez-Vous. This brasserie-style restaurant offers light dishes as well as full meals, but here, more than most places, the great and near-ly-grcal mingle with the lackluster and disappointing, liven if one is lucky enough to order the superb pepper steak, or the red snapper in pastry dough, or the rabbit, or the veal with a mushroom and cream sauce, he will still have to make his way around uninspired vegetables and a perfectly fine dinner salad rendered dull – as are they all, even the Nicoise – by an abundant, tasteless white dressing. Other disappointments include canned artichoke bottoms topped with frozen crabmeat and some very tough profitero-les; other greats, the exquisite cappucino pie and chocolate Rendez-Vous. The service is cordial, even thoughtful. (3237 McKinney at Hall. 745-1985. Daily Il-3 pm, 6 pm-3 am; Dinner till 2 am. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



INDIAN



India House. India House makes few concessions to American tastes, meaning, among other things, that its vindaloo curries are hot enough to make a believer out of Red Adair. The basic idea of Indian dining is to “compose” your meal from an array of individual dishes, so clearly the best tactic is to arrive in a group of four or five in order to sample without slumping into a stupor. Appetizers might include chicken chat, chunks of chicken in a tangy sauce; or alu tikki, potato and vegetable patties seasoned with herbs. Among the entrees, we recommend any of the curries, the chicken jalfrazie (a marinated chicken dish cooked with peppers and onions), and the saag paneer, a soft homemade cheese somewhat like feta, cooked in a spinach puree. India House has recently installed traditional clay ovens known as tandoori, a nice touch that on two recent visits produced mixed results: a definitely off fish tikka, and considerably better chicken tandoori. All the breads are homemade and excellent, with special praise going to the naan and the paranthha. As for the desserts, all we can say is that they’re different. (5422 E Mockingbird. 823-1000. Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11. Reservations. MC, V. $$)



ITALIAN



Campisi’s. The best bets here are the old favorites: a good, hearty lasagne, fennel-scented sausages with peppers, lightly fried shrimp scampi, and, despite its weird shape, a memorable pizza. better, we think, with extra cheese and pepperoni than “all the way.” The “pisghetti” and ravioli are only fair by grown-up standards – kids four and under will eat anything on the menu, even if it comes with clams. If you arrive before six, you can sail right in; otherwise, expect a wait. As for the name Campisi’s Egyptian Room, the place used to be a bar called – you guessed it – Egyptian Room, until the Campisi’s bought it 33 years ago. For some reason, rather than changing the name, they added theirs, (5620 E Mockingbird. 827-0355. Mon-Fri & Sun 11 am-midnight, Sal till I am. Reservations for 6 or more. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)



D Revisits Sergio’s. Once upon a time, a few years back, a young French couple started a little restaurant in a small corner of the Quadrangle. Today, that operation is Calluaud’s, living in lavish quarters elsewhere, and upholding its reputation as one of Dallas’ finest. And now, in that same little corner of the Quadrangle, it appears that another success story is being written. This time in Italian. At first blush, Sergio’s doesn’t make a strong impression; but in its own crowded, noisy, steamy way (the kitchen is separated from the dining room only by a burlap partition), Sergio’s smacks more of real Italy than most of its more comfortable counterparts. What’s better is that the authenticity starts in the kitchen. And it starts, of course, with the pasta. The manicotti, which we sampled as an appetizer, is, quite simply, the best around – so light it floats. And we’d be hard pressed to find a better Dallas fettucine; Sergio’s version is spiked with mushrooms – an impure version of the Italian classic, but it works. A recently expanded dinner menu now offers eight variations of veal and two chicken dishes in addition to pasta. The most interesting is the Veal Giorgio, a perfectly sautéed slice of veal in a sauce of sweet Vermouth, scallions, and tarragon. The best of lunch is their eggplant parmigiana, again not a traditional version (this is more like a layered eggplant lasagna) but an inspired one. A perfect menu? No, we didn’t like the cannoli. Sergio’s isn’t exactly the place for a long, luxurious meal. Service is brisk and the food tends to arrive at a breakneck pace. But the hustle is tempered by host Sergio, who has pulled a page from the book of charm as authored by his former boss Lombardi across the street. Sergio has already gathered a loyal clientele; if his reputation continues to outgrow his little restauram, he-may soon be moving out – and up. (Suite 192, The Quadrangle. 742-3872. Mon-Sat 11-10, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)



Lombardi’s. Some offerings here are sensational, our favorites being the shrimp all’aglio, in a fresh parsley, garlic, and butter sauce; the shrimp Lombardi, in a fragrant tomato sauce; and the great, thick minestrone. We found the snapper St. Gennaro, in a tomato and olive sauce, to be pleasant, but the sole Adriatico, a kind of fish parmigiana, seems a pretty poor idea from the start. Lombardi’s pastas are sometimes under par – soggy fettucine, and overcooked rigatone drowning in an underspiced pesto sauce. Lombardi’s lovely renovated clapboard house is intimate and welcoming, and the paint on the walls – shades of Italia Antica – quite beautiful. Service is attentive and spirited. (2815 McKinney. 823-6040. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Marcello’s. The service is brusque, but oh, the pasta. Marcello’s makes its own cannelloni, manicotti, and lasagna, using an anachronistic recipe that calls for hand-rolling, and then ensures that every diner gets a taste, at least as a side dish. Our favorites were the cannelloni with cream sauce and the cheese-packed lasagna, among the best we’ve sampled. For appetizers, you might try the stuffed mushrooms (with light, lemony seafood-and-vegetable stuffing) or the clams Possillippo, a son of zuppa di pesce with a lovely homemade broth. The seafood was generally quite good, and the veal picante (called lemon veal at most places) was outstanding. (9507 Overtake. 352-9594. Daily 5:30-11. Reservations. MC, V, DC. $$$)

Pietro’s. Pietro’s strong points have always been hearty, no-frills Italian cooking served in a homey, Mama’s kitchen style. Well, Pietro’s is still noisy and crowded, especially on weekends, and the portions certainly haven’t shrunk, but as the local competition has improved, its shortcomings have become more obvious. For instance, the bread (no heft, no crunch), salads (iceberg garnished with tomato wedge and a lone hot pepper), and tomato sauces (generally thick, acidic, and overwhelming). We’re still fond of Pietro’s cannelloni (with a trace of anise) and think its antipasto, crème caramel, and cannoli are among the best in Dallas. But we can’t say much for its pasta, and with so much good pasta now available, that’s a major problem. So, old loyalties notwithstanding, Pietro’s needs some revamping. (5722 Richmond off Greenville. 824-9403. Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun & Mon. No reservations. MC, V. $$$)



LUNCH



D Revisits The Atrium. It’s a shame that a restaurant with as much promise as the Atrium should consistently muff such basic items as bread – bland and spongy – and soups, which range from the barely palatable (beer cheese, tomato bisque) to an OK-in-a-pinch cream of chicken and broccoli. Service can also be erratic. On one recent visit we had to ask four times for lemon for our iced tea and nearly as many for our check. Having said this, we must also say that we’re fond of the Atrium salad (chicken, Swiss cheese, mushrooms, bell peppers, in a creamy Italian dressing) and the shrimp supreme, approximately a dozen large, fresh shrimp in a tasty cream sauce. We’ve also tried the shrimp quiche, asparagus quiche, quiche Lorraine, broccoli quiche, and green chili quiche, and found each of them light and flavorful, as well as a rich source of bad puns: “Stolen quiches,” “the quiche of death,” that sort of thing. Desserts are nothing special, but if you’ve already had one of the salads you won’t be interested anyway. A solid little restaurant that could use some tightening up. (1404 Main Street. 651-8414. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2:30. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



The Bronx. Nothing on the menu will change your life, but there are no disappointments here either. Chalkboard announcements of the daily noontime fare always include some robust listings like roast pork, lasagna, and homemade burritos. The omelettes are a can’t-miss selection, especially the ham and cheese, generously laden with ham. The chef’s salad, first-rate for quite some time, remains unchanged. One of the nice little things about the Bronx is the coffee, freshly ground of course. It goes especially well with the stellar chocolate mousse or the homemade pie. Service is quick and courteous. This is the kind of place in which you’ll feel comfortable in faded jeans, but not out-of-place if you go there for a light business lunch. (3835 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn. 521-5821. Mon-Thur 11:30-2 am, Fri till 1:30, Sal 6-11:30, bar till 2. Beer and wine only. Closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V. $)



D Revisits Tossed Greens and Things.Tossed Greens and Things serves salads, soups, and sandwiches, cafeteria style, in the nether reaches of Thanks-Giving Square. The only probelm with this is that they do it the same way day after day. In a week you’ve exhausted the menu and start looking around for a more imaginative lunch spot, only to discover that there aren’t many in downtown Dallas. Tossed Greens survives by filling an obvious need and by applying a simple formula shrewdly – limited number of choices, and none of them fancy. The chef, Italian, and fresh fruit salads are all above average, as are the health and avocado if you’re a member of the bean sprout brigade. We can’t say much for the tuna or the almond chicken, on the other hand, except that like everything else they’re generous. The soups are mediocre, especially the staple cheddar cheese, and you’ll find better quiche at half a dozen other places in town. The atmosphere is either clean or chilly depending on how you feel about supergraphics. We happen to think chilly, though well-intentioned. Still, given the downtown restaurant situation, Tossed Greens is definitely worth a visit. We only hope that the next time we go we’ll find something new on the menu. (Underground Thanks-Giving Square, Ervay and Pacific. 744-2254. Lunch: Mon-fri 11-2:30. Takeout service. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



MEXICAN



Casa Dominguez. Pete Dominguez’ empire has grown into a taco conglomerate with locations stretching from the bowels of One Main Place to the Addison strip. You’ll still find the best food at the original location, however. The carne asa-da and tacos al carbon, the two big beef items on most Mexican menus, are better than average, and the special Mexican and Poblana dinners both give a credible cross section of Tex-Mex. The bean and cheese nachos have a slight hint of chili, which gives them an edge over some of the good but predictable items on the menu. Another bright spot is the pico de gallo – a spicy vegetable mixture served alongside the standard tosta-das and hot sauce. Service is courteous and quick. (2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri till 11, Sat 5-11, Sun till 10. No reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $)

Chiquita. You’ll find this restaurant does good things with all the old standbys: enchiladas, tamales, tacos, frijoles, guacamole. It’s all there and it’s all good. But you can also do well by ordering some of the more unusual fare. The pescado marinero (sole stuffed with spinach and topped with a cheese and oyster sauce) is an excellent choice if you have the extra half hour it takes to prepare it. The kitchen staff is also skilled with chicken (enchiladas, grilled chicken breasts with lemon-butter sauce, even chicken nachos). We’ve grown particularly fond of the tortilla soup, which combines shredded tortillas, cheese, and a chili-seasoned hot sauce for a mixture that, suprisingly, is not quite as heavy as a bowl of chili. The place is a little more formal than most of its competition, but still relaxed. (3810 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)



D Revisits La Esquina. Okay, so it’s a tourist trap packed with fresh-off-the-plane Yankees who think that the atrium of the Loew’s Anatole Hotel is the appropriate place for their first sampling of Tex-Mex cooking. So the prices are higher than most honest restaurateurs would dream of asking ($10.95 for a combination Mexican plate). There are redeeming factors that make an occasional visit to La Esquina worthwhile. For one thing, the view inside the cavernous glass atrium is great. (You of course help pay for the huge hotel with every enchilada you buy, hence the exorbitant prices.) And the food is consistently good. The kitchen staff is skillful with the basics: The guacamole is light and tasty. The chiles rellenos are sufficiently cheesy. The enchiladas and tacos are both what you’d expect to find in a good Mexican restaurant. And the highbrow dishes like came asada and cama-rones (barbecued shrimp) are well prepared and seasoned. The biggest standout on the menu – black bean soup – is surprisingly inexpensive. For $1.75, you get a generous bowl, garnished with white cheese and filled with large chunks of ham. Another unusual and excellent selection is the tacitos, which are fried tortillas stuffed with sweet and spicy beef. And there’s one consolation to those offended by the prices. The don’t get higher for dinner than they are for lunch. (Loew’s Anatole Hotel, 2201 Stemmons Fwy. 748-1200. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3; Dinner: daily 6-11. Reservations for 8 or more. All credit cards. $$)



Guadalajara. Little Mexican cafés seem to come and go, but Guadalajara may live – and excel – forever. There’s lots to choose from and it’s hard to go wrong. We suggest the chile relleno (with cheese, not beef), the carne asada, and the soft cheese tacos. The menu also includes some unusual items like Nopalitos con Huevos (cactus and eggs), Chilaquiles (a traditional Mexican egg and tortilla dish), or a simple Papas con Heuvos (eggs and fried potatoes); great late-night food, and you can eat it here until 3:30 in the morning. And don’t leave without one of their fine sopapil-las with honey and cinnamon. The atmosphere is less than polished. (There’s a second Guadalajara on Henderson, but it doesn’t compare with the original.) (3308 Ross Avenue. 823-9340. Tue-Sun 11 am-3:30 am, closed Mon. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Herrera. This little cafe is a dump, housed in a building that would look like a warehouse if it weren’t so small. But the tacos, enchiladas, la-males, nachos, and guacamole are as good as you’ll find north of San Antonio. At this, the original Herrera, they don’t sell liquor, or take credit cards, reservations, or people with an aversion to standing in line. The newer and larger Herrera at Lemmon and Welborn is the Anglicized version. They serve Margaritas and take every conceivable credit card except Sears, but the food doesn’t have quite the zest you find at the old location. Nevertheless, they serve above-average Tex-Mex at either place. We offer one caveat: Steer clear of the steak; our carne asada was tough enough to be used for shoe repair. (3902 Maple Ave. 526-9427. Mon, Wed, Thur 9-8, Fri-Sun till 10, closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Javier’s. You’ll be hard pressed to find a taco on Javier’s menu, and the offerings you do find will have some rather staggering prices beside them. (Typical entrees are in the $9 range.) Some of them are worth it. The shrimp Guyamas, broiled in garlic and butter and served with rice and green peas, is excellent, as is the barbecued shrimp; portions of both are generous. Our serving of carne asada, though succulent, nonetheless reminded us too much of a large postage stamp. Javier’s has several good baked chicken dishes, but the best bet is undoubtedly the heaping plate of “combination” nachos made with black beans, guacamole, sour cream, and linares cheese. The atmosphere is as good as the best of the food – hanging vines, beamed ceilings, brick floors – and makes an ideal environment for hours of sampling Javier’s wide selection of Mexican beer. (4912 Cole. 521-4211. SunThur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till II. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Raphael’s. Expansion of the old ranch-style building to include a cocktail lounge has helped; now you can sit and drink Margaritas while you wait for some of the best Mexican food in the city. Start with the queso flameado, a flaming white cheese appetizer seasoned with chili and rolled up burrito-style. Most house specialties like chicken mole, carne asada, flounder Vera-cruzano, and chiles rellenos are superb, but the carne Tampiqueno and polio Tampiqueno are in a class by themselves. Save room for the stellar sopapillas topped with whipped cream and strawberries; they are decadently delicious. Service is attentive and courteous. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640. Mon-Fri 11:30-10:30, Sal noon-10:30, closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. MC, V, AE. $$)

El Taxco. Some regulars feared that Taxco’s spiffy new interior would mean the loss of that certain something in the kitchen. We*re happy to report that nothing essential has changed. The old favorites are intact, right down to the chile relleno, still a test of any fire-eater’s mettle. Special attractions include carne asada, a good-sized steak piled high with grilled onions; sour cream and chicken enchiladas; and tostadas a la McCaffrey, with lettuce, ground beef, guaca-mole, sour cream, and other ingredients too numerous to list. N.B.: The Margaritas, which have been described in these pages as “bilious” and “Kool-Aid,” are now really pretty tasty and a bargain at $1 from 11 to 5. (2126 N St Paul at McKinney. 742-0747. Wed-Mon 11-10, closed Tue. No reservations. MC, V. $)



NATURAL FOODS



Sh-Boom’s. A quiet, rustic spot whose menu has enough twists and turns to accommodate less than true believers – like wine, beer, chicken, fish, and a generous hand with seasonings. Sh-Boom’s real successes include its whole-grain rolls and muffins, excellent coffee, and a wonderful vegetable tempura plate with zucchini, cauliflower, broccoli, and a soy sauce dip. Strangely, just about everything else we tried was overdone, not a common offense at health-food places. In the overpowering category, include the shrimp de Jon and the seafood crepes and quiche at Sunday brunch, all of which were topped by rather intimidating, paprika-laden sauces. So “stick to the simpler things like sandwiches, soups, and vegetable plates. And order at least one Mimosa, a decadent concoction of fresh-squeezed orange juice and champagne. (4356 Lovers Ln. 692-1411. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Sat 5:30-11; Sun brunch 11:30-2:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)



ORIENTAL



Asuka. An authentic, traditional Japanese restaurant whose offerings include airy butterfly shrimp tempura, shabu shabu, and other delicate casseroles cooked at tableside; tonkatsu and ebi fry, pork and shrimp crisp fried, and beef ishiyaki grilled over hot rocks. For seafood lovers, there’s a splendid yosenabe, clear broth loaded with shrimp, scallops, oysters, fresh fish, abalone, and other exotica. Whether one sits in the light, clean-lined dining room or a tatami room, the table will be laden with small lacquer bowls of pickled vegetables, miso or clear soup, and seaweed. Sharing is often the way to go, and feel free to order more as the meal progresses. The waitresses, dressed in kimonos, are gracious and helpful, but service, even with a few patrons, can be slow. Asuka’s wood sign is barely visible from the road; drive two blocks north of Park Lane, look for the Shamrock station, and hang a right. (7238 Greenville between Park and Walnut Hill. 363-3537. Lunch: 11-2; Dinner: 6-11, closed Mon. Reservations. MC, AE. $$$)

Bo Bo China. The building is a dump, the food superb. And there’s always a crowd; plan on waiting 10 or 20 minutes to be seated. You may spend longer than that with the extensive menu. Start with the kuo-teh, a tasty, ravioli-style appetizer, or the won ton soup, almost a one-dish meal. Of the more than 40 entrees, we’ve tried chicken with plum sauce, shrimp with lobster sauce, black mushroom pork, and green pepper beef, and haven’t yet been disappointed. If you want something extra fancy, try the Peking duck, which must be ordered a day in advance. Lunch costs about the same as a Big Mac with fries and is served even faster. (10630 Church Rd at LBJ Fwy. 349-2411. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11-2:30; Dinner: Sun, Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat till 10. No liquor license. Reservations. MC, V. $$)

China Coast. Only a few restaurants offer consistently fine Hunan-Szechuan cooking in Dallas, and China Coast isn’t quite in that group. But if you pick and choose among the seafood dishes, the house specialties, you’ll do very well indeed. We recommend the crispy whole fish in a spicy sauce, mainly ginger, the fresh scallops in garlic sauce, the shrimp in ginger and hot sauce, the shrimp with peanuts, and the shark fin soup and the velvet corn with crabmeat soup. But the farther you get from the sea, and spice rack, the more pedestrian things become. The pu-pu platter – the usual assortment of egg rolls, shrimp toast, and paper chicken – is mediocre, and you can do the basic won ton, fried rice, and sweet and sour pork routine as well at a dozen other local restaurants. The cavernous dining room was recently divided into a dine’n’dance section with an oversized television screen, and a smaller, quieter dining room, a somewhat inelegant but effective solution to the former chaos, especially on weekends. (2930 Northwest Hwy at Bachman Blvd. 350-6282. Mon-Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat till 2 am, Sun 11-11. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Fuji-Ya. Probably the most interesting restaurant in far North Dallas, though that’s not nearly strong enough praise, since some of its principal competitors are the Arby’s and McDonald’s in the same shopping center. The menu includes plenty of entrees that you can get kids to eat – shrimp tempura, beef and chicken teriyaki, suki-yaki. All very good, though hardly a trip to the Far East. The adventurous diner will start with sashimi (sliced raw tuna, yellowtail, squid, octopus, and giant sea clam) served with a mix-it-yourself sauce of soy and wasanabi, an incredibly potent green horseradish. Then it’s on to the Ma-kunouchi Fuji-Ya Special, a.k.a. Combination C, a lacquered box containing pickled radishes, sautéed seaweed, tempura, rice cakes, and the star of our meal, marinated grilled salmon. A beautiful sushi plate is offered on Thursdays and Fridays. (13050 Coil Rd. 690-8396. Tue-Sat 11-10, Sun noon-10, closed Mon. Bar by membership. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

Hunan. You’ve probably wondered why all of Dallas’ Chinese restaurants are the same. The reason is that when this one opened a few years ago, it was wildly successful; even asbestos-tongued chili heads had to admit that there was something to be said for Chinese food. Then, through some inscrutable process, facsimiles of Hunan’s menu – faithful even to its typographical idiosyncracies – started appearing everywhere. Hunan’s range is narrow, and its successes are mostly on the hotter end of the spectrum. We recommend the hacked chicken, a cold appetizer with a wonderful spicy peanut sauce, and the crabmeat with corn rice soup. Of the entrees, only the fiery chicken and shrimp Hunan showed any flair – or maybe we should say flare. If you’re planning on being a hermit for a day or so, try the eggplant with garlic sauce – it’s good, and, uh, memorable. (5214 Greenville at Lovers Ln. 369-4578. Sun-Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat till midnight. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Mihama Ya. A slightly screwy place with good inexpensive Japanese food. This time we tried the gyoza (egg rolls, something like Chinese pot-stickers) and kara age (marinated fried chicken) appetizers, both excellent. The tempura plate was bounliful and nicely prepared, though the evening’s excitement was provided by Chirashi Donburi, a collection of raw tuna, shrimp, and squid on sushi rice, served in a lovely lacquered box. tach entree conies with soup and a salad whose principal value is for chopstick practice. Lunch is a bargain at three dollars for entree, soup, salad, and rice, though the fare is limited to America’s favorites. Ambiance provided by Japanese top-forty music. (7713 Inwood Rd. 351-9491. Lunch: Tue-Thur 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11, Sun 1-10. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Royal Tokyo. Still the top expense-account Japanese restaurant in Dallas, and several notches below the best places. You have a choice of two menus, one containing more or less authentic sukiyaki, shabu-shabu, etc., and another with a limited selection of special dinners served in the hibachi room to the accompaniment of clacking cleavers and rattling saltshakers. The better food is often found in the latter, even if there’s nothing exciting about filet mignon and chicken breasts. In the tatami room, where you sit unshod on thin cushions, things are more ambitious and erratic. Good news first: excellent gyoza and superb Sashimi appetizer. Our large (and expensive) sushi dinner contained fresh tuna, abalone, and snapper, along with a few inedibles such as red clam and an aged omelette stuffed with rice. In the unqualified disaster category were the gluey shrimp tempura and a salmon steak teriyaki that had been broiled nearly to powder. (7525 Greenville Ave. 368-3304. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat till 11:30, Sun till 10. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



SEAFOOD



Crazy Crab. The trick here lies in knowing your way around the pun-filled menu. What not to order is anything fried; what to order is any of the non-fried shellfish offerings. Our favorite meal consists of a dozen oysters, a small order of boiled shrimp, and a whole Dungeness crab. The dinner comes with “seaweed,” Crazy Crab’s delicious fried onion rings, fresh vegetables, and a large, dull salad. If you’d rather not swing at crabs with a hammer, you might try Ahoy Polloi, fresh broiled crabmeat sautéed in butter; Old Salt’s Surprise, a properly underbroiled red snapper; or Cortez’s Cuisine, filet of sole sautéed with onions, chili peppers, and tomatoes. The large dining hall, with mile-high ceilings and newspa-per-strewn tables, is too cavernous to be cozy, though it’s much improved now that the salty sayings and fishnets have been scraped from the walls. (3211 Oak Lawn at Hall. 522-5310. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri till 11, Sal 5-11, Sun 5-10. No reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Fausto’s. One of the few elegant restaurants in Dallas where you don’t have to buck the noon crowd. We showed up for lunch without reservations recently, got a prime table by the fountain, and enjoyed an excellent meal of baked giappino (seafood bisque heavy on crabmeat), trout amandine, and baked filet of sole. Fausto’s is crowded enough at dinner to make reservations advisable, and prices go up when the sun goes down. But one of the most expensive items also happens to be the best: the whole lobster, served with drawn butter (available on Fridays and Saturdays only). A few of the appetizers, like the crabmeat Orleans, are worth their somewhat inflated price tags. Service is attentive and agreeably formal. (Hyall Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Oysters. Oysters avoids trouble by serving straightforward fish dishes in no-nonsense New England style. Diners have a choice of, naturally, oysters (fried or on the half shell), boiled shrimp, seafood gumbo, or a number of daily specials including scrod, sole, red snapper, fried blue fish, or some other fresh catch of the day. We’ve yet to have a bad meal at Oysters, though the scrod and sole have consistently been better than the other entrees. The fried zucchini and eggplant appetizers arc excellent and a bargain at $1.75 for a large basket. For dessert, there’s carrot cake, as well as praline ice cream and lemon sherbet. And that’s about the whole story. The one serious omission is a sampling of good white wines to offset the mediocre house offering. (4580 Belt Line Rd. 386-0122. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun. MC. V, AE. $$)

S&D Oyster Company. A high-spirited oyster house whose plain good looks, bustling service, and simple offerings suggest a busy terminal not far from the sea. On a recent visit, the raw Gulf oysters sparkled, the red snapper shone, and our gallant waiter, straight off the old Congressional dining car, dazzled as he whipped up a fine red sauce with plenty of lemon juice and a touch of Tabasco. On an earlier trip, we had been surprised by uncharacteristically tired oysters and a waitress so surly she was surely on her way out the door. Even so, we enjoyed the homemade gumbo, thick with meat and fish; the pungent shrimp salad; and the boiled shrimp. S&D does almost everything well. Their fried snnmp ana oysters are so good they almost convince us that fried isn’t such a bad idea after all. They do fall down in the baked goods department, though; we still can’t tell the lemon meringue pie from the cheesecake. Otherwise, no problems – except the line. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri& Sat till II. closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)



SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES



Broussard’s. The atmosphere is about like Bill King’s Brake-O, with most of the patrons in greasy work clothes and baseball caps with “Bar-dahl” printed across the front. But that’s all part of the down-home style that makes Frenchy Broussard’s place such a joy. The Cajun cooking is authentic and better than anything you’ll find on Greenville or McKinney. The oysters, fresh or fried, are superb, as is the catfish plate, Broussard’s most popular lunch item. We are particularly partial to the gumbo and the picante, which tastes terrific over rice. We’ve had mixed reports on the jambalaya, though. If you dine at Broussard’s on Friday or Saturday night, try the barbecued shrimp, which is well worth the drive to Irving; expect a crowd if you go for lunch any weekday. Brown-bagging is encouraged and the only solution to Irving’s liquor laws. (707 N Belt Line Rd in Irving. 1 mile S of Rte 183. 255-8024. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10, closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $$)

Celebration. You’ve eaten this kind of food before. It’s what your mother serves you when she thinks you need more balanced meals. Hearty meatloaf. Pot roast. Baked chicken. Heaping Hunan. You’ve probably wondered why all of Dallas’ Chinese restaurants are the same. The reason is that when this one opened a few years ago, it was wildly successful; even asbestos-tongued chili heads had to admit that there was something to be said for Chinese food. Then, through some inscrutable process, facsimiles of Hunan’s menu – faithful even to its typographi-cal idiosyncracies – started appearing every-where. Hunan’s range is narrow, and its suc-cesses are mostly on the hotter end of the spec-trum. We recommend the hacked chicken, a cold appetizer with a wonderful spicy peanut sauce, and the crabmeat with corn rice soup. Of the en-trees, only the fiery chicken and shrimp Hunan showed any flair – or maybe we should say flare. If you’re planning on being a hermit for a day or so, try the eggplant with garlic sauce – it’s good, and, uh, memorable. (5214 Greenville at Lovers Ln. 369-4578. Sun-Thur 11:30-/1. Fri & Sat till midnight. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)Mihama Ya. A slightly screwy place with good inexpensive Japanese food. This time we tried the gyoza (egg rolls, something like Chinese pot-stickers) and kara age (marinated fried chicken) appetizers, both excellent. The tempura plate was bountiful and nicely prepared, though the eve-ning’s excitement was provided by Chirashi Don-The only seating is on school-desk style benches, which you’ll be lucky to get during the noon hour, when the crowd is overflowing. Sonny Bryan’s has compensated for that with a pair of waitresses ready to fetch you a beer the minute you walk in the door. (2202 In wood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 8-6 or until the meat’s all gone, Sat 11-3, Sun 11-2. Beer only. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.



Chili’s. We wish we’d discovered Chili’s – and then not told anybody about it, so we wouldn’t have to stand in line. But no matter. Chili’s enormous success has given it a stability that virtually nothing else along the silly Greenville Avenue restaurant strip can equal. As for the hamburgers, Chili’s has chosen the middle road, and to our conservative tastes has established a standard by which all Dallas burgers can be measured. The Rojo Burger, for example, is what Harvey Goff’s Number 2 with Cheese is supposed to be: an inch-thick patty with hickory sauce and a slice of cheese, not a thin smattering of grated. The soft tacos, with chili, cheese, and lettuce, are also good, as are the fabled French fries. The prices are low, the service swift, and the noise level high. (7567 Greenville at Meadow. 361-4371. 4291 Belt Line, Addison. 233-0380. Sun-Thur 11 am-11:30 pm., Fri & Sat till 1:30am. No reservations. MC, V.$)

Kirby’s. An evening here is a trip to 1949, or at least to what our fairly callow editorial staff imagines that year to have been like. That means it’s dark and has red leatherette booths and motherly waitresses and serves steak and fried things. The top sirloin, rib eye, and tenderloin are all generous cuts of high quality and come with baked potato and salad. The shrimp cocktail and sautéed mushrooms are iffy, but given the size of the dinner you won’t miss them anyway. Service is quick and friendly – questions about varying cuts of meat may send your motherly waitress bustling to the kitchen for a platter of uncooked steaks for your inspection. (3715 Greenville. 823-7296. Tue-Sun 5:30-10. Fri & Sat till midnight, closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards.

Las Pampas. Argentinean food served in a refurbished Shell service station? Yes, and consequently, Las Pampas is a real sleeper. Argentineans are big fans of charcoal-broiled meat, and that’s what’s served here: steak, chicken, lamb, and sausage, served on table-top grills, accompanied by vegetables and potatoes. The best option is the mixed grill (chicken, flank steak, and sausage); a true Argentinean mixed grill includes the innards, but management wisely decided to play it safe. The least successful item is the lamb chops, which lean to the greasy side. Most fun are the appetizers, especially the empanadas (delicate fried meat pies), the chicken tortillas al carbon (flour tortillas with a filling of broiled chicken chunks, onions, and green pepper), and the cheese fundido (three flour tortillas accompanied by a bowl of melted cheese and butter, which you spoon up, roll, and eat; simple, but a knockout). For a remodeled gas station, the place is really quite nice, aided and abetted by an easy-going staff and a charming maitred’. (2408 Cedar Springs at Fairmount, 742-5311. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Sal 6-11; closed Sun. MC,V,AE.$$$)