RESTAURANTS Dining Out

Mimi’s. Not Mimi’s, the bankrupt restaurant/ disco in NorthPark East, but Mimi’s, the beer and sandwich shop on Greenville near Lovers. If you’ve never heard of it, it’s not surprising; ever since the disco came to town, this little spot has existed – barely – in its shadow. Mimi’s hardly deserves that fate, but we suspect it’s also intentionally low profile, pleasantly out of step with its flashier Greenville Avenue neighbors. All you’ll find here is a quiet, comfortable little pub with some nice neon in the window, a small selection of sandwiches and salads, and rock classics like Bob Dylan, Jackson Browne, and Neil Young on the stereo. The food is better than average bar food – we had good corned beef and salami sandwiches, excellent pepper beef, and first-rate cheesecake – although imported beer is Mimi’s main draw. You’ll find standards like Watney’s and Foster’s alongside the exotics like Czechoslovakia’s Pilsner Ur-quell and Brazil’s Brahma Chopp; 16 countries heard from in all. And that’s about it. Mimi’s is nothing to write home about, but it’s just the thing – maybe the only thing – if you’re in the mood to pour an Olde Oslo and listen to Neil Young records. (5111 Greenville near Lovers Ln. 696-1993. Mon-Sat 11 am-2 am, Sun noon-midnight. MC, V, AE. $)

Moctezuma’s. Moctezuma’s isn’t what you’d call authentic Mexican – our blond young waiter was fascinated by the quesa-dillas we’d ordered, never having seen one before. Can a very gringo, very McKinney Avenue restaurant compete with Guadalajara and El Taxco, where the real thing is served by the real people? The odds don’t look good. The previous tenant here, Car-lotta’s Cadillac, tried the same act and failed, and this new place has the additional handicap of a name that can only reflect a warped sense of marketing (they’ve tried to brazen it out by calling the big combination plate “The Revenge”). Nevertheless, there must be plenty of people who would like their border cooking served up a bit more high-toned, and Moctezuma’s provides the requisite space between tables, cloth tablecloths, exposed brick and greenery. And the kitchen can deliver good meals at least half the time, not bad after a month of operation. The aforementioned quesadillas were filled with real cheese, not the Velveeta (a.k.a. “queso amarillo”) often encountered at more down-home establishments. The tacos al carbon were real steak, as was the carne Tampiquena, the hit of the evening – thick and genuinely medium-rare, covered with onions and bell peppers. The sour cream chicken enchiladas were excellent, and the pico de gallo quite tasty. For dessert, we liked the excessive coconut ice cream with almonds and a splash of Kahlua. Things weren’t so nice at lunch. The kitchen staff kept us waiting half an hour so they could make our steak leathery and broiled shrimp rubbery. Moctezuma’s does boast the best gimmick of the month: the Bucket of Beer, five brews for the price of four iced down in a galvanized steel pail right at your table. (3236 McKinney at Hall. 559-3010. Sun-Wed 11-10, Thur-Sat 11-2 am. Reservations. MC, V. $$)

The Winery. A section within the Italian Inn for wine and light dishes seems like a good idea; the problem is that the Italian Inn is not a very good restaurant, and the Winery suffers because of it. We visited mid-week when it was uncrowded. The basement restaurant, one of Fort Worth’s oldest, is dark and cozy; somewhere a piano played “Misty.” At least the scene was correct. The main restaurant is lined by booths with swinging doors, and the dim nooks are ideal for trysts and the planning of Sicilian intrigues, although the booth walls are covered by decades of graffiti, some astonishingly candid. The Winery is a small area fronting the bar with small tables and dim lights. There are only seven main dishes, augmented by a few appetizers, one soup, and a sampling of pastries. We nibbled on the cheese and fruit board and vegetable board and decided the celery was the highlight. Then we moved on to pate with truffles, if only because the fungus is not seen on any other menu in Fort Worth. The truffles were acceptable but the pate could have been ground Spam: Our companion sampled the avocado and shrimp salad, which was excellent. The service was good enough, though it could be claimed that the waiter hovered. He was often near the piano, singing, which Italian Inn waiters often do. (3304 Failfield Ave, Fort Worth. (817) 737-0123. Mon-Fri 5-11, Sat & Sun 5-12. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)

RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining. It is implicit that we recommend all of them highly.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $15 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC/Master Charge, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diner’s Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.



CONTINENTAL



D Revisits Antares. The only difference between dining at this restaurant atop Reunion Tower and having a meal on a 747 is that Ahtares doesn’t wrap your silverware in cellophane. The view is just as breathtaking, and the food just as bland as anything a flight attendant ever pulled from a microwave. Antares is obviously trying to overcome its reputation for overpriced and boring cuisine. The menu has been expanded, the service is excellent, everything possible has been done to package the dining experience. The menu offerings, however, remain uniformly and consistently insipid. Consider the appetizers: Our crab soup arrived in an elegant sea-shell that was momentarily encouraging – until we tasted the extraordinarily forgettable soup. The same humdrum pace continued through the meal. Our broiled red snapper was dry, the prime rib only a cut above what’s served at Bonanza Steak House, and our scampi only somewhat more tasty than the rice that surrounded it. An-tares is not without its high points. The baked onion soup is worth trying and the chocolate mousse (made with white chocolate) is quite good. The best bargain is for children. Their entrees only cost half the adult portion price, and they’ll be so busy looking out the windows they won’t notice what’s on their plates. (Reunion Tower at the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 741-3663. Lunch: 11-2; Dinner: 5-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Arthur’s. We suspect that as many deals are struck at Arthur’s as at all-male bastions like the City Club, which has benefits for the rest of us. These include an absence of hanging plants, a menu that ranges from double lamb chops and cottage fries to chilled yam soup with crabmeat, and a fine little bar. Unfortunately, two benefits that haven’t been forthcoming for months now are consistently fine food and service. On our last visits, Arthur’s served much that was good (smoked salmon, broiled shrimp and scallops, lamb chops, roast duck with black bing cherries) and a few small bursts of excellence (watercress and endive salad, fresh asparagus with hollan-daise, and – no joke – the yam soup). A few other dishes were well below par, including woody broccoli, bland lobster mousse, and lukewarm lobster tails. Overall, the kitchen’s performance was relatively reliable and in no way breathtaking, which doesn’t quite cut it when dinner for two can easily cost $65. Unless you look like you might own Republic Bank, expect a rough ride. (1000 Campbell Centre. 361-8833. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun-Fri 6-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Chateaubriand. Chateaubriand delivers mainline excess with flair. With live music and dancing, a meal here amounts to a big evening’s entertainment, but the place continues to serve impressive food, in spite of an unusually large and varied menu. We played it safe this time with lobster tails and lamb chops (both quite good), but strayed enough to try the pastitsa and dolma appetizers, a better sampling than you’ll find at the city’s full-fledged Greek restaurants. With the exception of a curt and rather formidable hostess, the service was friendly and skillful. All in all, a good place to tie one on. (25315 McKinney. 741-1223. Mon-Sat ll:30am-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

The Chimney. Make reservations: Homestyle atmosphere and superb Swiss-Austrian food have built the Chimney a loyal following, and the place is usually overflowing. Lunch is like a formal meal at a relative’s – it includes an obligatory first course of bouillon and cheese wafers – though the food is probably a lot better. We loved the scallop casserole, with white wine sauce over rice, and the chicken breast with orange-almond sauce. For dinner, you might try venison (the only place in town you can get it) or one of the veal offerings, like lemon veal or veal ricotta. The calf’s liver is legendary – thick, tender, and topped with perfect onion rings. Save room for dessert. Service is pleasant, though sometimes bordering on stuffy. (Willow Creek Ctr, 9739 N Central at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10:30, Sun 6-10. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Ewald’s. Long one of the most comfortable restaurants in town, and though we sometimes wish it were more adventurous, there’s no arguing with a good thing. Ewald’s service is attentive without being pushy, its atmosphere quiet and utterly unstuffy; not many places in town manage to make diners feel so thoroughly at home. The food is consistent and well-prepared, especially the beef and veal dishes; among the best are the veal papagallo (a cutlet stuffed with Canadian bacon, Swiss cheese, and sour cream), the veal with lemon butter, and the tenderloin tips à la Ewald (with mushrooms, green pepper, onion, and pimiento). The pepper steak seems to be invariably good. For appetizers, we recommend the shrimp du chef (broiled in a tangy sauce), priced the same as a shrimp cocktail but much better. The Black Forest cake is the best of several excellent dessert selections. (5154 W Lovers Ln. 357-1622. Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat till 11, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V. $$$)

Jennivine. Given its early days as a quiche-and-chablis spot, Jennivine has come a long, long way. Our recent dinners have been delightful, featuring a rare roast leg of lamb (hardly a standard locally), fresh scallops with lemon butter, and respectable red fish and salmon steak. Patés are featured, with good reason – the paté au poivre and salmon paté were excellent (and available over the counter). It’s worth noting, however, that as a wine bar Jennivine continues to do virtually nothing right; they should clean out the dogs and stock up on a few good wines to do justice to their wonderful chef. Still, one of the best small restaurants in town, and one of the few where a couple can eat well for less than $30. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Tue-Sat 1:30 am-11:30 pm, closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Old Warsaw. A hardy survivor from the Fifties, still savvy enough to roll over most of its younger competitors. Granted, there’s plenty of corn in Old Warsaw’s act (including lots of flaming brandy), but there’s lasting elegance, too, and a willingness to experiment. Some of the nicest surprises are the little things: Brie soup, a salad of Belgian endive and watercress, and a side dish of wild rice so flavorful it will probably ruin you for any other kind. As for the main offerings, we’ve had an excellent steak tartare, fish mousse in mersault sauce, lamb chops, and tournedos in a sauce of red wine and shallots – all classy, all good. The Grand Marnier souffle is legendary. Like most elegant and successful restaurants with a large business clientele (on week nights, the place resembles the executive annex of Republic Bank), Old Warsaw features flawless service and an outrageously overpriced wine list. Unlike any other, it throws in a refreshingly down-to-earth sommelier with a Salvador Dali moustache. One of the city’s very best. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Sun-Fri 6-10:45, Sat till 11:45. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)



D Revisits The Grape. This small, dimly lighted restaurant remains one of the best for leisurely and good, sometimes inspired, meals. Handel’s Water Music, or something like it, is always playing in the background during dinner; there are candles and small vases of flowers on each table – this is a place where attention is paid to detail. The menu lists numerous imported cheeses, available in combinations with fruit or singly, along with the usual sandwiches and salads. On a recent visit, we began, as always, with the fresh mushroom soup, by far the best we’ve ever tasted, then chose entreés from the blackboard. The beef au chasseur, sauteéd in a lovely white wine and garlic sauce with tomatoes and mushrooms, was excellent. What promised to be a real treat, however – thesoft-shelled crabs in lime juice – wasn’t, reminding us that the Grape usually does less well by seafood dishes. But the classical strains, the Cappucino pie, and the friendly, unhurried service made up for the disappointment. The Grape recently look over the beauty parlor next door, converting it into a quite elegant wine bar. The two together should be unbeatable. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-11. wine and cheese till midnight. No reservations. MC, V. $$)



Pyramid Room. If man could live by appetizers alone, our first choice would be the smoked Irish salmon with chopped egg, capers, onions, and a glass of aquavit at the Pyramid Room. For simple elegance, it is unsurpassed – and quite foreign to the spirit of the restaurant as a whole, where caviar is served in elaborate ice sculptures and entrees are accompanied by windmills and various carved animals. Since there’s no way to ignore the show, sit back and enjoy it. After the salmon, you might try an endive and Boston lettuce salad, a filet bordelaise, and a Grand Marnier souffle; if you prefer a different scenario, try the beef consomme with sherry (simple and superb), a filet of sole en croutc, and sliced oranges in Amaretto. It’s now possible to find many of the Pyramid Room’s main dishes prepared as well or better in other Dallas restaurants, but the overall dining experience remains unique: When you’ve finished you know you’ve eaten out, and there’s a lot to be said for that. (Fairmont Hotel. Ross and Akard. 748-54S4. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-1:30; Dinner: daily 6-9:45. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

Three Vikings. This place has the kind of intimate, homey feel that would probably win you over even if the food weren’t as good as it is. The grilled salmon with dill sauce and the filet of sole Anders are outstanding, as is the roast duck with almond sauce, a new favorite, and the Swedish steak, a thin tenderloin covered with onions and a rich gravy. The sauces are the culinary high points here, all prepared by the owner’s son, Anders, with exceptional subtlety and restraint. Our only complaints at the moment are so-so salads and occasionally dull vegetables; the once-mediocre wine list has improved considerably in recent months. By now, the word is out on Three Vikings, so be prepared to wait unless you have reservations. If you get stuck in line, console yourself with thoughts of chocolate cheese pie, an obscenely rich dessert that will leave you blissed out for hours. Do Swedes eat this well back home, we wonder? (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-11, Sun brunch: 11-3, closed Mon. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



DELICATESSENS



Kuby’s. Where else in Dallas will you find such animated polyglot service accompanied by tips on knish baking, sausage stuffing, herring pickling, and a dozen other matters of interest to aspiring gourmets? As for the food, it’s still as reliable as any in town: an impressive selection of wursts and cold cuts, superb soups, hot potato salad, steak tartare, and pastries rich enough to immobilize an army of Valkyries. But perhaps the easiest way to understand Kuby’s appeal is to drop by on a Saturday when the doors are jammed open by mobs of shoppers and the whole place takes on the character of a street carnival. This, almost as much as the food, is what draws people to Kuby’s: the sense of participating in a genuine old-world food fest in the middle of an emphatically new-world city. Deserves the label “institution” as much as any restaurant in Dallas. (6001 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Mon-Sat 8-6, sandwiches till 5:30. No reservations. MC for purchases over $15. $)

Wall’s. A cheerful, albeit slightly dingy deli with the best cheese blintzes in town. At midday, Wall’s hospital green back room clatters with the soup-and-sandwich bunch, but the best time to go is Sunday morning, when serious eaters meet for hours on end of schmoozing and fressing. You might order a combination platter of smoked fish (it’s not on the menu, but you can work something out); the best is the fragrant barbecued salmon, followed by the Nova Scotia salmon and lox. Add to that an order of herring in sour cream, scrambled eggs with lox and onions, apricot danish, juice, and coffee; this comes to about $20 and feeds two or three. The baked goods are not up to snuff, but all else seems good by local standards. Oddly, Wall’s closes at 6:30, just when we’re nearly ready for dinner. (10749 Preston near Royal Ln. 691-4444. Daily 7 am-6:30pm. Reservations. MC, V. $$)



FRENCH



La Cave. The city’s first wine bar is still the best, with wine specials on chalkboard, a cellarful of reasonably priced alternatives at the back, and a menu that doesn’t run out after the standard array of patés and cheese boards. La Cave’s versions are often better than you’ll find elsewhere, but they also offer a cold artichoke with homemade mayonnaise, sausage sandwich, avocado stuffed with shrimp, and a number of other delights. The French onion soup (Wednesdays only) is a legend, and we’ve sampled excellent tomato mushroom, split pea, and a highly spiced chicken vegetable as well. The only real disappointment is the sliced cold prime rib, which requires working around too many ribbons of congealed fat. If there’s another place that consistently delivers small, elegant meals as well, we don’t know of it. (2926 N Henderson. 826-2190. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, cheese and wine only 2-5:30; Dinner: Mon-Fri 5:30-11:30; Sal continuous food service noon-11:30. Retail wine sales Mon-Fri 10 am-midnight, Sal 10:30 am-mid-night. MC, V, AE. $$)



D Revisits le Boul’ Mich. I or sheer good looks, this little place is hard to beat. From the sunny, restored house right down to the china and cutlery, care and class are the keys. Especially nice is the patio in back, which offers patrons the chance to dine to something besides the sound of traffic. Unfortunately, le Boul’ Mich sometimes acts as if it were the only good-looking restaurant in town, and as if that were enough. Since the menu is primer French, comparisons are inevitable, and so far the interior designer has the chef whipped hands down. You can gel better steak Parisienne, quiche, veal, soups, you name it, at a dozen places in town, perhaps half of which are in le Boul’ Mich’s neighborhood. The only thing you can’t get better anywhere is bread – a crusty, coarse-grained loaf that the Dentu Creme set had better leave alone. Add a pot of sweet butter and a glass of wine and the meal gets off to a good start, at least. The best entree we’ve sampled is the haddock bonne femme, nicely cooked with a light cream sauce; apart from that, you take your chances. After a year in business, le BouI’Mich should have hit its stride, but it seems oddly content with second best. (2704 Worthington. 826-0660. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat till midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)



Jean Claude. Right up there with the best, always good, often brilliant, and never merely an also ran. The menu changes nightly, but let’s just say that if you’re offered a choice of Maine lobster in white wine and butter sauce, or rack of lamb, or veal tournedos with green peppercorns, or poached salmon, say yes. Add to that the salmon mousse, which has become our favorite appetizer. There are, in fact, only a few miscues among Jean Claude’s offerings (our chocolate souffle didn’t, and the shrimp in brandy sauce sounded better than they tasted). Everything else, from the service to the loaves of coarse, thick-crusted bread of impressive weight and taste to the after-dinner port (a Quinta do Noval 1963) was first rate. The place is expensive, but unlike so many other expensive restaurants, it convinces you that your money is going for food and service instead of show. (2520 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Dinner: Tue-Sal, settlings at 6 and 9. Reservations only. MC, V, AE. $$$)

D Revisits Calluaud. Calluaud goes in less for theatrics than the other top French/continental restaurants in Dallas, preferring quiet elegance and understatement to whistling sommeliers and pyrotechnical displays with chafing dishes. That’s fine with us because over the long haul Calluaud delivers as well or better than its more flamboyant rivals. It would be easy to make a list of absolutely dependable entrees such as rack of lamb, filet mignon with hearts of palm, veal chop, and medaillons of veal, but another of the delights of Calluaud is that the menu is large enough to contain many small, unsuspected pleasures. Imagine a meal of duck pate en croute or red snapper mousse, followed by an endive salad and roast duck with fresh pears and port sauce. If you’re still upright, finish up with a chocolate or strawberry soufflé, although they aren’t the best in town. Service is cordial and attentive, with occasional lapses at peak hours, but what keeps you going back to Calluaud is the combination of style and restraint. It is comfortable and unhurried, and for that reason you are tempted to drop by for no reason at all instead of waiting for a special occasion. Calluaud has recently stopped serving lunch, so you’ll have to stay up later to enjoy it. Still solidly in the top rank. (2619 McKinney. 823-5380. Dinner: Mon-Sal 6-10:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Patry’s. Patry’s sometimes seems to belong to the dowager generation of Dallas restaurants, but it has a reputation for being steady and reliable. Patry’s has the basics down pat, including excellent appetizers – we had an old favorite, the stuffed leeks, and a well-prepared crab Nantua – and perhaps the lightest, most delicious chocolate mousse in town. The Chateaubriand was superbly grilled and fork-tender. On the other hand, the coq au vin tasted warmed-over in a sauce that was over-seasoned. The place has a somewhat fussy decor that seems out of sync with its size and unpretentious menu, but service is pleasant and responsive. (2504 McKinney. 748-3754. Tue-Sun 6-11, Sal till 11:30, closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Le Rendez-Vous. This brasserie-style restaurant offers light dishes as well as full meals, but here, more than most places, the great and nearly-great mingle with the lacklustre and disappointing. Even if one is lucky enough to order the superb pepper steak, or the red snapper in pastry dough, or the rabbit, or the veal with a mushroom and cream sauce, he will still have to make his way around uninspired vegetables and a perfectly fine dinner salad rendered dull – as are they all, even the Nicoise – by an abundant, tasteless white dressing. Other disappointments include canned artichoke bottoms topped with frozen crabmeat and some very tough profitero-les; other greats, the exquisite cappucino pie and chocolate Rendez-Vous. The service is cordial, even thoughtful. (3237 McKinney at Hall. 745-1985. Daily ll-3pm, 6pm-3am; Dinner till2 am. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



ITALIAN



Campisi’s. The best bets here are the old favorites: a good, hearty lasagne, fennel-scented sausages with peppers; lightly fried shrimp scampi, and, despite its weird shape, a memorable pizza, better, we think, with extra cheese and pepperoni than “all the way.” The manicotti is pleasant, and the crab claws in butter a worthy appetizer or side dish. The “pisghetti” and ravioli are only fair by grown-up standards – kids four and under will eat anything on the menu, even if it comes with clams. The chocolate layer cake is delicious; likewise, the cheese cake. If you arrive before six, you can sail right in; otherwise, expect a wait. As for the name Campisi’s Egyptian Room, the place used to be a bar called – you guessed it – Egyptian Room, until the Campisis bought it 33 years ago. For some reason, rather than changing the name, they added theirs. Any more questions? (5620 E Mockingbird. 827-0355. Mon-Fri & Sun 11 am-midnight. Sat till 1 am. Reservations/or 6 or more. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)



D Revisits Lombardi’s. From the moment the captain greets you, there’s a sense of festivity and good eating ahead. Some offerings are sensational, our favorites being the shrimp all’aglio, in a fresh parsley, garlic, and butter sauce; the shrimp Lombardi, in a tomato sauce so fragrant we sopped it up with bread; and a great, thick minestrone. Though we normally prefer plainer veal dishes, the veal flamminga, with a gratinee of cheese, and the saltimbocca, with fine proscuitto and a touch of Marsala, were excellent. So was the snapper St. Gennaro, in a tomato and olive sauce, though the sole Adriatico, a kind of fish parmigiana, seems a poor idea from the start. Lombardi’s usually fine pastas were a bit under par this visit – we like ours al dente, but the fet-tucine was soggy, and the rigatone overcooked and drowning in its pleasant, though a bit under-spiced pesto sauce. Linguine in a white clam sauce loaded with flour was also disappointing, although the presentation, with clams in their shells, makes a nice touch. For dessert we liked the Cappucino pie and the creamy Napoleon. Though we can’t tell the difference, we also liked the Pelegrino in lieu of the same old Perrier. Lombardi’s lovely renovated clapboard house is intimate and welcoming, and the paint on the walls – shades of Italia Antica – quite beautiful. Service is attentive and spirited. (2815 Mc-Kinney. 823-6040. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat 5:30-11, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)



Marcello’s. The decor is dingy, and the service brusque, but oh, the pasta. Marcello’s makes its own cannelloni, manicotti, and lasagna, using an anachronistic recipe that calls for hand-rolling, and then ensures that every diner gets a taste, at least as a side dish. Our favorites were the cannelloni with cream sauce and the cheese-packed lasagna, among the best we’ve sampled. Apart from thoroughly ordinary salads and bread, just about everything from Marcello’s kitchen was good. For appetizers, you might try the stuffed mushrooms (with light, lemony seafood-and-vegetable stuffing) or the clams Possillippo, a sort of zuppa di pesce with a lovely homemade broth. The seafood was generally quite good, and the veal picante (called lemon veal at most places) was outstanding. One final compliment: Every dish is hot, so hot, in fact, that you can’t get near it for several minutes. You’ll probably wish you could enjoy Marcello’s food in more pleasant surroundings – the place looks like a basement rec room, complete with fish tank – but as long as the pasta is this strong, it’s hard to argue priorities. (9507 Overtake. 352-9594. Daily 5:30-11. Reservations. MC, V, DC. $$$)

Pietro’s. Pietro’s strong points have always been hearty, no-frills Italian cooking served in a homey, Mama’s kitchen style. Well, Pietro’s is still noisy and crowded, especially on weekends, and the portions certainly haven’t shrunk, but as the local competition has improved, its shortcomings have become more obvious. For instance, the bread (no heft, no crunch), salads (iceberg garnished with tomato wedge and a lone hot pepper), and tomato sauces (generally thick, acidic, and overwhelming). Sauces aside, we’re still fond of Pietro’s cannelloni (with a trace of anise) and think its antipasto, crème caramel, and cannoli are among the best in Dallas. But we can’t say much for its pasta, and with so much good pasta now available, that’s a major problem. The same for Pietro’s specials, like the over-designed vio alla Veronese – scallops of veal in lemon and wine sauce, topped with asparagus spears, served on a bed of toast points. So, old loyalties notwithstanding, Pietro’s needs some revamping. (5722 Richmond off Greenville. 824-9403, Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun & Mon. No reservations. MC, V. $$$)



D Revisits Mario’s. If you can get past the heavy, mortuary-like atmosphere, you’ll find some of the city’s most elegant Italian cuisine here, if not the best. Everything from a wide selection of antipasti to a variety of excellent flaming desserts can be found on Mario’s lengthy menu. The cannelloni stuffed with meat and spinach makes a stellar appetizer, although the sautéed snails in garlic butter are even better. The zuppa di pesce rivals the best you’ll find in any Italian restaurant within 50 miles. And the veal scaloppine with artichoke hearts in lemon butter is one of the better selections on a list of solid entrees that cover the gamut of chicken, fish, beef, and veal. If your taste runs to the offbeat, try the calamari alla Napoletana (sautéed squid with tomatoes and garlic) or the Moscovita Grand Marnier (mousse made with Grand Marnier). We sampled the strawberry and apricot flambé and found both to be superb. By the time you’ve reached dessert you’ll probably be on a first-name basis with your tuxedo-clad waiter, who is likely to hover over your table throughout the meal. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations. Jackets required for male customers. All credit cards. $$$)



Sergio’s. Pasta will usually tell you what you need to know about an Italian restaurant. If it huddles protectively in the center of the plate, or sticks to the roof of your mouth like bad bridge-work, you’ve got problems. No problems at Sergio’s. We tried the cannelloni and the manicotti (both homemade) and found them outstanding. Sergio’s salads and antipasto are nothing to wax operatic about, and the tomato sauce isn’t much better than at many other restaurants in town, but we have no complaints about the saltimboc-ca, or the eggplant parmigiana, or the chicken regina (breast of chicken in white sauce served on a bed of homemade spaghetti). In its first few months, Sergio’s survived staff problems and a fire that put it out of commission for several weeks. One can only speculate about where it would be if it had gotten off to a clean start. (Suite 192, the Quadrangle. 742-3872. Mon-Sat 11-10, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

II Sorrento. What Trader Vic’s is to the South Seas, II Sorrento is to Italy, except that II Sorrento’s decor – one part each sidewalk cafe, village square, and archaeological site – is a lot classier. And its food much better. From the long list of appetizers, the littleneck clams, minestrone, and antipasto were fine (the only off-note being some mushy snails). Among the entrees, we especially liked the manicotti and the fettucine al pesto, whose fresh basil sauce is lovely and, incidental-ly, sticks to your teeth in little green globs. For a sampler of elaborate dishes, which are more characteristic of II Sorrento’s kitchen, you might try the Combination alla Sorrento No. 1 (rolla-tina of veal, beef pizzaiola, breast of chicken Parmesan); all are house specialties and quite good. A well-run restaurant with the customers to prove it, and more gracious to children than the prices might suggest. (8616 Turtle Creek, north of Northwest Hwy. 352-8759. Daily 5:30- 10:30, Sat till 11:30, Reservations except Fri & Sat. All credit cards. $$$)



MEXICAN



Casa Dominguez. Pete Dominguez’ empire has grown into a taco conglomerate with locations stretching from the bowels of One Main Place to the Addison strip. You’ll still find the best food at the original location, however. The carne asa-da and tacos al carbon, the two big beef items on most Mexican menus, are better than average, and the special Mexican and Poblana dinners both give a credible cross section of Tex-Mex. The bean and cheese nachos have a slight hint of chili, which gives them an edge over some of the good but predictable items on the menu. Another bright spot is the pico de gallo – a spicy vegetable mixture served alongside the standard tosta-das and hot sauce. Service is courteous and quick. (2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri till 11, Sat 5-11, Sun till 10. No reserva-tions. MC, V. AE, DC. $)

Chiquita. No Mexican restaurant in Dallas has a wider variety of entrees or delivers more consistently good offerings than Chiquita. You’ll find this restaurant does good things with all the old standbys: enchiladas, tamales, tacos, frijoles, guacamole. It’s all there and it’s all good. But you can also do well by ordering some of the more unusual fare. The pescado marinero (sole stuffed with spinach and topped with a cheese and oyster sauce) is an excellent choice if you have the extra half hour it takes to prepare it. The kitchen staff is also skilled with chicken (enchiladas, grilled chicken breasts with lemon-butter sauce, even chicken nachos). We’ve grown particularly fond of the tortilla soup, which combines shredded tortillas, cheese, and a chili-seasoned hot sauce for a mixture that, suprisingly, is not quite as heavy as a bowl of chili. The place is a little more formal than most of its competition, but still relaxed. (3810 Congress off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)



Guadalajara. Little Mexican cafés seem to come and go, but Guadalajara may live – and excel – forever. There’s something about this spot that reminds us more of Mexico than anyplace else in Dallas. That has something to do with its somewhat gritty surroundings and less-than-polished atmosphere, and a lot to do with the food. There’s lots to choose from and it’s hard to go wrong. We suggest the chile relleno (with cheese, not beef), the carne asada (the real thing – no fancy trimmings), and the soft cheese tacos (the best in town). The menu also includes some unusual items like Nopalitos con Huevos (cactus and eggs), Chilaquiles (a traditional Mexican egg and tortilla dish), or a simple Papas con Heuvos (eggs and fried potatoes); great late-night food, and you can eat it here until 3:30 in the morning. And don’t leave without one of their fine sopapil-las with honey and cinnamon. (There’s a second Guadalajara on Henderson, but it doesn’t compare with the original.) (3308 Ross Avenue. 823-9340. Tue-Sun 11 am-3:30am. dosed Man. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



Raphael’s. Expansion of the old ranch-style building to include a cocktail lounge has helped; now you can sit and drink Margaritas while you wail for some of the best Mexican food in the city. Start with the queso flameado, a flaming white cheese appetizer seasoned with chili and rolled up burrito-style. Most house specialties like chicken mole, carne asada, flounder Vera-cruzano, and chiles rellenos are superb, but the carne Tampiqueno and polio Tampiqueno are in a class by themselves. Save room for the stellar sopapillas topped with whipped cream and strawberries; they are decadently delicious. Service is attentive and courteous. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640. Mon-Fri 11:30-10:30, Sat noon-10:30, closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. MC, V, At. $$)



D Revisits Herrera. You’ve heard this story before. The little cafe is a dump. People stand in line outside to crowd into a booth jammed up next to a soft-drink machine or sit at a table near a window with a view of an auto parts store. They come because the food is so good. Soon the cafe expands into a new location, which never quite has the flair of the original place. It’s a fill-in-the-blank success story that applies to a number of ethnic restaurants in Dallas, most notably Herrera. The original location at 3902 Maple doesn’t sell mixed drinks, or take credit cards, or reservations, or people with an aversion to standing in line. The building would look like a low rent warehouse if it weren’t so small. But the tacos, tamales, nachos, enchiladas, and guacamole arc as good as you’ll find north of San Antonio. The newerand larger Herreraat Lemmonand Welborn is the Anglicized version. They serve Margaritas and take every conceivable credit card except Sears, but the food just doesn’t have quite the zest you find at the old location. Nevertheless, they serve above-average Tex-Mex at either place. We offer one caveat: Stay away from the steak; our carne asada was tough enough to be used for shoe repair. (3902 Maple Ave. 526-9427. Mon, Wed, Thur 9-8, Fri-Sun till 10, closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



D Revisits Javier’s. Any doubts you have that this is a highbrow Mexican restaurant will disappear when you check the menu. You’ll be hard pressed to find a taco. And the listings you do find will have some rather staggering prices beside them. (Typical entrees are in the $9 range.) Some of them are worth it. The shrimp Guya-mas, broiled in garlic and butter and served with rice and green peas, is excellent, as is the barbecued shrimp; both have large portions of shrimp. But Javier’s is not so generous with its beef. Our carne asada was succulent; but the serving reminded us too much of a large postage stamp. The restaurant has several good baked chicken dishes, but undoubtedly the best thing on the menu is a heaping plate of “combination” nachos, made with black beans, guacamole, sour cream, and linares cheese. We also recommend the cheese panelas (cheese and green peppers wrapped in a flour tortilla) and the flaming crepe desserts. The atmosphere is as good as the best of the food – hanging vines, beamed ceilings, brick floors – and makes an ideal environment for hours of sampling Javier’s wide selection of Mexican beer. (4912 Cole. 521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till II. Reservations. MC, V. AE. $$)



El Taxco. Some regulars feared that Taxco’s spiffy new interior would mean the loss of that certain something in the kitchen. We’re happy to report that nothing essential has changed. The old favorites are intact, right down to the chile relleno, still a test of any fire-eater’s mettle. Special attractions include carne asada, a good-sized steak piled high with grilled onions; sour cream and chicken enchiladas; and tostadas à la McCaffrey, with lettuce, ground beef, guaca-mole, sour cream, and other ingredients too numerous to list. N.B.: The Margaritas, which have been described in these pages as “bilious” and “Kool-Aid,” are now really pretty tasty and a bargain at $1 from 11 to 5. (2126 N St Paul at McKinney. 742-0747. Wed-Mon 11-10, closed Tue. No reservations. MC, V. $)



ORIENTAL



Bo Bo China. The building is a dump, the food superb. And there’s always a crowd; plan on waiting 10 or 20 minutes to be sealed. You may spend longer than that with the extensive menu. Start with the kuo-teh, a tasty, ravioli-style appetizer, or the won ton soup, almost a one-dish meal. Of the more than 40 entrees, we’ve tried chicken with plum sauce, shrimp with lobster sauce, black mushroom pork, and green pepper beef, and haven’t yet been disappointed. If you want something extra fancy, try the Peking duck, which must be ordered a day in advance. Lunch costs about the same as a Big Mac with fries and is served even faster. (10630 Church Rd at LBJ Fwy. 349-2411. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11-2:30; Dinner: Sun, Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat till 10. No liquor license. Reservations. MC, V. $$)



D Revisits Asuka. A traditional Japanese restaurant: serene, spacious, and at the top of its class. Authentic offerings rnclude airy butterfly shrimp tempura, shabu shabu, and other delicate casseroles cooked at tableside; tonkatsu and ebi fry, pork and shrimp crisp fried with dipping sauce; and beef ishiyaki grilled over hot rocks. For seafood lovers, there’s a splendid yosenabe, clear broth loaded with scallops, shrimp, oysters, fresh fish, abalone, and other exotica, all simmered to perfection. To sample a few favorites and savor fresh foods in season, contrasting flavors, and beautiful presentation, we suggest sharing either of the Asuka Kaisekei combinations, or at lunchtime, Asuka Bento, a generous and ingenious array of tempura, sushi and sashi-mi, beef, vegetables, and – the only minor off-note – frozen Alaskan crabmeat when a spoonful of fresh is nicer. Whether one sits in rush chairs in the light, clean-lined dining room, or, as we prefer, on the floor in a tatami room, before long the table will be laden with small lacquer bowls proffering pickled vegetables, miso or clear soup, and, yes, even seaweed. Asuka is the real thing, so if you’re the least bit adventurous it’s worth a try. Sharing is often the way to go; ordering more as the meal progresses is customary; and sweet plum wine is far more potent than sake. The waitresses, dressed in kimonos, are gracious and helpful, but service, even with a few patrons, can be slow. Asuka’s wood sign is barely visible from the road; drive two blocks north of Park Lane, look for the Shamrock station, and hang a right. (7238 Greenville between Park and Walnut Hill. 363-3537. Lunch: 11-2; Dinner: 6-11. closed Mon. Reservations. MC, AE. $$$)

China Coast. Only a few restaurants offer consistently fine Hunan-Szechuan cooking in Dallas, and China Coast isn’t quite in that group. But if you pick and choose among the seafood dishes, the house specialties, you’ll do very well indeed. We recommend the crispy whole fish in a spicy sauce, mainly ginger, the fresh scallops in garlic sauce, the shrimp in ginger and hot sauce, and the shrimp with peanuts. They’re all as good as you’ll find in town. So is the shark fin soup and the velvet corn with crabmeat soup. But the farther you get from the sea, and spice rack, the more pedestrian things become. The pu-pu platter – the usual assortment of egg rolls, shrimp toast, and paper chicken – is mediocre, and you can do the basic won ton, fried rice, and sweet and sour pork routine as well at a dozen other local restaurants. The cavernous dining room was recently divided into a dine’n’dance section with an oversized television screen, and a smaller, quieter dining room, a somewhat inelegant but effective solution to the former chaos, especially on weekends. The management isextremely pleasant, the service efficient. Overall, a dependable and occasionally sparkling restaurant. (2930 Northwest Hwy at Bachman Blvd. 350-6282. Mon-Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat till 2 am, Sun 11-11. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)



Fujl-Ya. Probably the most interesting restaurant in far North Dallas, though that’s not nearly strong enough praise, since some of its principal competitors are the Arby’s and McDonald’s in the same shopping center. The menu includes plenty of entrees that you can get kids to eat – shrimp tempura, beef and chicken teriyaki, suki-yaki. All very good, though hardly a trip to the Far East. The adventurous diner will start with sashimi (sliced raw tuna, yellowtail, squid, octopus, and giant sea clam) served with a mix-it-yourself sauce of soy and wasanabi, an incredibly potent green horseradish. Then it’s on to the Ma-kunouchi Fuji-Ya Special, a.k.a. Combination C, a lacquered box containing pickled radishes, sautéed seaweed, tempura, rice cakes, and the star of our meal, marinated grilled salmon. A beautiful sushi plate is offered on Thursdays and Fridays. (13050 Coit Rd. 690-8396. Tue-Sat 11-10, Sun noon-10, closed Mon. Bar by membership. No reservations. MC, V. $$)



Hunan. You’ve probably wondered why all of Dallas’ Chinese restaurants are the same. The reason is that when this one opened a few years ago, it was wildly successful; even asbestos-tongued chili heads had to admit that there was something to be said for Chinese food. Then, through some inscrutable process, facsimiles of Hunan’s menu – faithful even to its typographical idiosyncracies – started appearing everywhere. Through it all, Hunan has been the best. Maybe not good enough, if you’re used to New York and San Francisco. Hunan’s range is narrow, and its successes are mostly on the hotter end of the spectrum. We recommend the hacked chicken, a cold appetizer with a wonderful spicy peanut sauce, and the crabmeat with corn rice soup. Of the entrees, only the fiery chicken and shrimp Hunan showed any flair – or maybe we should say flare. If you’re planning on being a hermit for a day or so, try the eggplant with garlic sauce – it’s good, and, uh, memorable. (5214 Greenville at Lovers Ln. 369-4578. Sun-Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat till midnight. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Royal Tokyo. Still the top expense-account Japanese restaurant in Dallas, and several notches below the best places. You have a choice of two menus, one containing more or less authentic sukiyaki, shabu-shabu, etc., and another with a limited selection of special dinners served in the hibachi room to the accompaniment of clacking cleavers and rattling saltshakers. The better food is often found in the latter, even if there’s nothing exciting about filet mignon and chicken breasts. In the tatami room, where you sit unshod on thin cushions, things are more ambitious and erratic. Good news first: excellent gyoza and superb sashimi appetizer. Our large (and expensive) sushi dinner contained fresh tuna, abalone, and snapper, along with a few inedibles such as red clam and an aged omelette stuffed with rice. In the unqualified disaster category were the gluey shrimp tempura and a salmon steak teriyaki that had been broiled nearly to powder. There’s no excuse for flubbing these basic dishes. So, not a restaurant for gourmets, but satisfactory for dabblers and dilettantes. (7525 Greenville Ave. 368-3304. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat till 11:30, Sun till 10. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



SEAFOOD



Crazy Crab. The trick here lies in knowing your way around the pun-filled menu. What not to order is anything fried; what to order is any of the non-fried shellfish offerings. Our favorite meal consists of a dozen oysters, a small order of boiled shrimp, and a whole Dungeness crab. The dinner comes with “seaweed,” Crazy Crab’s delicious fried onion rings, fresh vegetables, and a large, dull salad. If you’d rather not swing at crabs with a hammer, you might try Ahoy Polloi, fresh broiled crabmeat sautéed in butter; Old Salt’s Surprise, a properly underbroiled red snapper; or Cortez’s Cuisine, filet of sole sautéed with onions, chili peppers, and tomatoes. The large dining hall, with mile-high ceilings and newspaper-strewn tables, is too cavernous to be cozy, though it’s much improved now that the salty sayings and fishnets have been scraped from the walls. (3211 Oak Lawn at Hall. 522-5310. Mon-Thur 11 am-10pm. Fri till 11, Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. No reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Fausto’s. One of the few elegant restaurants in Dallas where you don’t have to buck the noon crowd. We showed up for lunch without reservations recently, got a prime table by the fountain, and enjoyed an excellent meal of baked giappino (seafood bisque heavy on crabmeat), trout amandine, and baked filet of sole. Fausto’s is crowded enough at dinner to make reservations advisable, and prices go up when the sun goes down. But one of the most expensive items also happens to be the best: the whole lobster, served with drawn butter (available on Fridays and Saturdays only). A few of the appetizers, like the crabmeat Orleans, are worth their somewhat inflated price tags. Service is attentive and agreeably formal. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Oysters. Oysters avoids trouble by serving straightforward fish dishes in no-nonsense New England style. Diners have a choice of, naturally, oysters (fried or on the half shell), boiled shrimp, seafood gumbo, or a number of daily specials including scrod, sole, red snapper, fried blue fish, or some other fresh catch of the day. We’ve yet to have a bad meal at Oysters, though the scrod and sole have consistently been better than the other entrees. The fried zucchini and eggplant appetizers are excellent, and a bargain at $1.75 for a large basket. For dessert, there’s carrot cake, as well as praline ice cream and lemon sherbet. And that’s about the whole story. The one serious omission is a sampling of good white wines to offset the mediocre house offering. Otherwise, a dependable, unpretentious place in an area already over-populated with gee-whiz theme restaurants and dreary steak and barbecue spots. (4580 Belt Line Rd. 386-0122. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun. MC, V, AE. $$)

S&D Oyster Company. A high-spirited oyster house whose plain good looks, bustling service, and simple offerings suggest a busy terminal not far from the sea. On a recent visit, the raw Gulf oysters sparkled, the red snapper shone, and our gallant waiter, straight off the old Congressional dining car, dazzled as he whipped up a fine red sauce with plenty of lemon juice and a touch of Tabasco. On an earlier trip, we had been surprised by uncharacteristically tired oysters and a waitress so surly she was surely on her way out the door. Even so, we enjoyed the homemade gumbo, thick with meat and fish; the pungent shrimp salad; and the boiled shrimp. S&D does almost everything well. Their fried shrimp and oysters are so good they almost convince us that fried isn’t such a bad idea after all. They do fall down in the baked goods department, though; we still can’t tell the lemon meringue pie from the cheesecake. Otherwise, no problems – except the line. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11am-10pm, Fri & Sat till 11, dosed Sun. No res-ervalions. MC, V. $$)



SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES



Broussard’s. The atmosphere is about like Bill King’s Brake-O, with most of the patrons in greasy work clothes and baseball caps with “Bar-dahl” printed across the front. But that’s all part of the down-home style that makes Frenchy Broussard’s place such a joy. The Cajun cooking is authentic and better than anything you’ll find on Greenville or McKinney. The oysters, fresh or fried, are superb, as is the catfish plate, Broussard’s most popular lunch item. We are particularly partial to the gumbo and the outstanding picante, which tastes terrific over rice. We’ve had mixed reports on the jambalaya, though. If you dine at Broussard’s on Friday or Saturday night, try the barbecued shrimp, which is well worth the drive to Irving; expect a crowd if you go for lunch any weekday. Brown-bagging is encouraged, and the only solution to Irving’s liquor laws. (707 N Belt Line Rd in Irving. 1 mile S of Rte 183. 255-8024. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10, closed Sun. No reservations. No credit cards. $$)

Celebration. You’ve eaten this kind of food before. It’s what your mother serves you when she thinks you need more balanced meals. Hearty meatloaf. Pot roast. Baked chicken. Heaping bowls of vegetables like steamed broccoli, pinto beans, and mashed potatoes. Huge green salads with homemade dressings. All is served “family style” (big bowls for the entire table instead of individual servings) by waiters as eager to bring you second helpings as your mother would be. The only item on the menu that doesn’t automatically entitle you to the vegetables is the spaghetti plate, which tastes more like it was prepared by dear old Mom than an Italian chef. Hot biscuits come with every dinner, of course. The only shortcoming of this restaurant is that it is not open for lunch. Expect a brief wait in line some evenings. (4503 W Lovers. 351-5681. Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11, Sun 5-10. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $)

Farmer’s Grill. You won’t find any fancy food at the Farmer’s Grill, just lots of it. “It” could be chicken-fried steak, liver and onions, barbecued hot links, a predictably fine vegetable plate, corn bread, peach cobbler, or half a dozen other items that fall under the general heading of Texas home-style cooking. Home-style fare is a bad joke at many local restaurants, but the Farmer’s Grill obviously serves the genuine article, since any time of day you’re likely to see truckdrivers, cops, secretaries, and several dozen pairs of bib overalls bent over heaped, steaming plates. The whole place is nearly as noisy as the produce market across the street, and the waitresses are all in the six-plates-to-an-arm class – friendly but firm. Even more important, the Farmer’s Grill is an excellent value. You have to struggle to spend $3.50, and anyone who manages to top $5.00 will probably have to be carried out. Also a good bet for breakfast. (1101 S Pearl Expwy. 741-9361. Mon-Sat 5 am-10 pm, Sun till 2 pm. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Red Moon Cafe. The Creole menu has some conspicuous weak spots (red beans and rice aren’t served with the entrees and the sauces tend to be more timid than tangy), but this quiet, rather dumpy little neighborhood cafe is one of the best around for consistent, home-style food. Get there early (it opens at 7:30 most days) and you can enjoy a hearty breakfast of well-prepared omelettes, biscuits, gravy, and grits. Luncheon offerings include New Orleans fare like crawfish, pork chops Creole, and several varieties of poor-boy sandwiches. The dinner menu includes all of the luncheon standbys, as well as shrimp Mediterranean, filet of beef Napoletana (cooked in Burgundy, garlic, tomatoes, and olive oil), and chicken jambalaya. The homemade desserts, like the buttermilk pecan pie, are standouts. (4537 Cole at Knox. 526-5391. Breakfast and lunch: Mon-Sat 7:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till II; Sun brunch 10-2. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

Sonny Bryan’s. As soon as you pull into the parking lot, you know the food has to be good. Why else would so many patrons crowd into barn-like surroundings unfit for a good quarter horse? Sonny Bryan’s serves spareribs fit for a king. We’ve sampled all the barbecue variations – sliced, chopped, sausage – and found them to be excellent, as are the home-style barbecued beans and slaw. The large pile of hickory stacked in front of the place is obviously used for more than decoration. Every morsel of barbecue has that unmistakable taste of slowly smoked meat. The only seating is on school-desk style benches, which you’ll be lucky to get during the noon hour, when the crowd is overflowing. Sonny Bryan’s has compensated for that with a pair of waitresses ready to fetch you a beer the minute you walk in the door. (2202 Inwood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 8-6 or until the meat’s all gone. Sat I1-3, Sun 11-2. Beer only. No reservations. No credit cards. $)