RESTAURANTS Dining Out

Asuka. It will be interesting to watch what happens to this very good restaurant. It has a jinx to beat: Three other restaurants, most recently the ludicrous Chicken Ranch, have died on this spot. And it is most uncompromising in its resolve to serve authentic Japanese food. It has no chefs in karate outfits juggling knives, no kitschy pagodas and fish ponds. It does have an abundance of unidentifiable vegetables and other foods with unpronounceable names. When we first visited, two weeks after its unpublicized opening, the restaurant was virtually empty. Normally, that’s a pretty depressing experience, but we were seated in one of the little screened rooms where you sit on the floor (actually with your feet in a pit under the table-one accommodation to lankier western patrons). We felt wrapped in a private and very foreign-in the best, most adventurous sense-world. Hard to believe that just a few hundred feet away discotheques were throbbing and tempers were flaring at the intersection of Greenville and Park. We ordered the special “Matsu” dinner, a sample of almost everything the restaurant has to offer. Though the waitress had a little trouble understanding that we wanted a leisurely meal and kept bringing new courses before we had finished the old, Asuka’s presentation was superb. Each dish was a visual feast, enhanced by some of the handsomest pottery we’ve ever seen in a restaurant. The sashimi, several varieties of raw fish, was excellent, and the tempura, with a delicate batter, the best we’ve had in Dallas. (Dessert, incidentally, was a thing almost unimaginable: tempura ice cream-sort of a tiny baked Alaska.) The soups were superb, as was a dish of cubed meat and sprouts served in a big bowl filled with hot rocks. (One measure of our naivete is that we tried to pick up one of the round black rocks with our chopsticks, thinking it was yet another unfamiliar vegetable.) Lunch was simpler, but perhaps prepared even better. It came with an interesting appetizer: a chilled soft-boiled egg in a lemon-and-soy-flavored broth. (One of our party, it should be noted, found this dish as unpalatable as it may sound.) The clean elegance of Asuka’s decor makes it an island of simplicity and civility on Boogie Boulevard, and it will be a measure of Dallas’ sophistication if a restaurant offering such subtle and exotic fare thrives. (7236 Greenville, between Park and Walnut Hill. 363-3537. Lunch: 11-2; Dinner: 6-11; closed Wednesday. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Le Boul’ Mich (short, we’re told, for Boulevard St. Michel, a classy street on the Left Bank) is Jean Claude Prevot’s Continental lunch spot with quiche, steak, soups, and sandwiches on a blackboard menu. (It’s open for dinner too, but the selection doesn’t change.) The building is striking, a restored house with much of the seating on a glassed-in porch. Our guess is that any restaurant project Jean Claude takes seriously will eventually serve first-rate food; his other restaurant, Jean Claude, is reviewed elsewhere in these pages as one of Dallas’ top three. As of late March, however, Boul’ Mich wasn’t even close. At lunch, our steak Parisien was fine, but it was accompanied by over-cooked steamed vegetables and under-cooked French fries. The pate in the pate sandwich was good, but the bread was so crusty that each bite mashed the filling out the sides. The meal was partly redeemed by the soup of the day (spicy tomato) and a tray bearing excellent pastry. A favorable review had appeared in the Times Herald the morning of our dinner visit, and we looked forward to seeing how the kitchen and service staff handled a full house. Now we know: They fell apart. We arrived at 8 o’clock; drinks were served at 8:25, and the table was set at 9:20. By the time the soup course was served, we were hungry enough to finish a bowl of soup that bore marked resemblance to Kagu extra-spicy spaghetti sauce. It wasn’t so bad when you dunked bread in it-almost like pizza. The onion soup was decent, and the member of our party who had ordered a salad shared it at knifepoint; my bite was very good. The crowd began to thin out at 9:45. Our entrees hit the table at 10, and they were truly awful. The high points were the sandwich “maison,” a rubbery Polish sausage embedded in a hunk of bread and melted cheese; overdone ham quiche harboring a large piece of gristle; and the plat du jour, tastless and chewy roast beef. The crowning insult: Each non-sandwich entree was awash in a lake of extremely institutional lima beans. At 10:30 we adjourned to Burger King for supper. The French fries were excellent. (2704 Worthington. 826-0660. Mon-Sat 11-midnight. Reservations for six or more. MC, V, AE. $$)



RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining. It is implicit that we recommend all of them highly.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.



The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.



$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $12 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC/Master Charge, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diner’s Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All Credit Cards” indicates that all five are accepted.



CONTINENTAL

Antares. An unrivaled view of the city as featured by an average restaurant, though if you choose carefully from the menu you can have your scenery and a decent meal, too. From the limited selection of entrees, the steaks seem to be the best (the tenderloin is the best value), though the appetizers are more intriguing: a good and bountiful salade Nicoise, marvelous onion soup, tasty fried escargots. If you don’t like these, you might as well move up one floor to the bar. (Reunion Tower at the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 741-3663. Lunch: 11-2; Dinner: 5-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Arthur’s. The place to mix business with pleasure, which makes for a terrific bar with stiff drinks and some solid, well-prepared food. The chef shines at the grill with a good cut of meat: Filet, calf’s liver and onions, lamb chops, all are first-rate. The seafood dishes tend to be ordinary or overdone, so it pays to stick with the simple things. Service is generally excellent. (M-1000 Campbell Centre. 361-8833. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun-Fri 6-11, Sal till midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Bagatelle. One of the classiest dining rooms in town, with a solid wine list, sophisticated service, and a cozy bar. The sole Véronique and veal francaise, seasoned with herbs and wine, have been impressive on recent visits, as have the shrimp du chef appetizer and the escargots. Lunch at the companion Plaza Cafe is more chaotic than classy. Expect slow service and scrambled orders, though the food is good when it finally arrives – especially old standbys like the Plaza omelette and the quiche Lorraine. (One Energy Square, Greenville at University. 692-8224. Bagatelle: Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10, bar till 2 am. Plaza: Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. Bagatelle: $$$, Plaza: $$)

Brasserie. This elegant coffee shop still fills a local void as a late-night snack stop after a dressy evening, and some of its post-midnight treats are as wonderful as ever: sensational eggs Benedict, avocado stuffed with crabmeat, and sirloin steak sandwich. But the salads, omelettes, and sandwiches are no better than you can get at lots of other places – just considerably more expensive – and around 2 a.m. you can get the uneasy feeling that you’re keeping the place open. Still, late night is the only time to visit. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard. 748-5454. 24 hours, seven days a week. No reservations. MC. V, AE, DC. $$)



Chateaubriand. The perfect Fifties post-prom trip, complete with music, dancing, hat-check girl, and an army of tuxedoed waiters battling to light your cigarette. Nothing distinguished about the food, but considering the size of the menu the quality is surprisingly high. We’ve had good luck with the Greek fare (pastitsa and dolma appetizers, Greek veal) and the broiled lamb chops; less than good luck with the shrimp appetizer and most of the vegetable offerings. At lunch, the menu shrinks a bit, and quality and service drop a notch. Chateaubriand is what dining meant before there was a Greenville Avenue. (2515 Mc-Kinney. 741-1223. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-mid-night. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



D Revisits The Chimney. A nice cozy place. You won’t have any gustatory epiphanies here, but you’ll probably never go away feeling cheated. The accent is Swiss, and if you remember Harry Lime’s observation that the major contribution of Switzerland to civilization is the cuckoo clock, you know that Swiss cuisine will not dazzle your palate. What they do here is prepare each dish with care. The veal is excellent, and it takes many forms. The simplest, the lemon veal, may be the best, because it allows the meat to shine. But the calf’s liver, thick and tender, is superb. Lunch is aimed at a matronly clientele, but it recently featured a terrific, fiery chicken curry that any hearty eater would scarf up with pleasure. Desserts tend to the Viennese-sachertorte. Black Forest cake-and they’re worth leaving half your entree uneaten for. Service was slow at lunch, but pleasant and efficient at dinner. (Willow Creek, 9739 N Cen Expwy at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; Sun Brunch 11-2; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10:30, Sun 6-10. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Ewald’s. The emphasis here is on homey comforts and leisurely, classy service, and on these grounds alone Ewald’s beats out many restaurants serving more interesting food. Fortunately, Ewald’s food is good, with veal and beef dishes the specialties of the house. Stick with the proven favorites: pepper steak, loaded with grains of hot white pepper; tenderloin tips a la Ewald, tender chunks of steak with fresh mushroom slices, bell pepper, and pimiento. On the whole, a steady, relaxed restaurant that set its course years ago and has stuck with it. (5145 W Lovers Ln. 357-1622. Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat till 11, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V. $$$)

The Grape. Nothing chic here. Just pleasantly tacky decor and consistently good food. You can make a meal out of a plate of cheese (the best selection in town, served with fruit and fresh bread), soup or salad, and a carafe of wine, but the entrees won’t let you down. Recent standouts include chicken and artichokes cooked in Scotch, Chateaubriand in perfect bearnaise, and a delicately prepared filet of sole. Still one of the most dependable restaurants in Dallas. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-11, open later on Fri & Sal for wine and cheese. No reservations. MC, V. $$)



Jennivine. The notion of an English wine bistro is a bit odd, but Jennivine has to be considered more than a curiosity. Lunch has been especially good recently – there’s a delightful quiche divan, packed with chicken; a nicely prepared roast loin of pork; and an excellent spinach-and-sprout salad. The dinner menu includes a perfectly cooked red snapper filet and a dish called chicken Wessex that is heavy, soggy, and downright unappealing. Great sourdough bread. The wine list wine list features good selections and a high mark-up. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Tue-Sal 11:30 am-l1:30 pm, closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Old Warsaw. Old Warsaw has the brandy-and cigar motif down pat, as well as most of the dishes that fall under the general heading of Continental. In addition to the standard offerings, one finds a delightful brie soup, a superb artichoke-heart-and-sweetbreads appetizer in madeira sauce, and a terrine de poisson that is both rich and light. As for the entrees, we’ve never tasted a better duck a l’orange or a more delicate poached salmon; the only letdown was the beef bourguignon, which was, well, beef bourguignon. The dessert souffles are wonderful. Although no longer without competition, Old Warsaw hasn’t slipped, like some other old standbys. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Tue-Sun 6-10:45, Sat till 11:45. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

La Polonaise. You’ll find true elegance mixed with more than a few pretensions here, though the kitchen’s achievements tend to balance things out. La Polonaise’s mushrooms stuffed with crab are as good as we’ve tasted, as is the delicate cream of carrot soup, and the dessert souffles waiting at the other end of the meal are exquisite. We had a little trouble with the entrees last time, no doubt because we visited on Valentine’s Day. The medallions of veal with morel mushrooms would have been brilliant had they not been served lukewarm; the quail were nicely seasoned but had lingered at the stove much too long; the kitchen ran out of paté du chef and served us a canned substitute without asking if we’d prefer something else. But if you time your visit a little better, you’ll do just fine-the kitchen talent is obviously there. La Polonaise’s dining room is sophisticated and very pretty, and the management has excellent credentials. We hope for great things from this restaurant. 2123 Highland Park Village. 522-6270. Mon-Sat 6-11. Reservations. AE, V, MC. $$$$)



Pyramid Room. The Fairmont has an ace up its sleeve: the Pyramid Room. The overall dining experience here is unrivaled in Dallas. That’s attributable to its charming, efficient staff and a relaxed approach to splendid food. We’ve recently sampled the excellent veal chop baked with honey and dressed with grated carrot; even better was the lamb loin baked in a pastry shell with tarragon sauce – a lamb-lover’s dream. Lunch is almost as great a pleasure – the calf’s liver with onions and baked apple is as good as you’ll ever taste, the fresh fruit salad truly fresh, and the pastry cart incredible. We even tried the “Pyramid Hamburger.” It was, of course, superb. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard. 748-5454. Lunch: 11:30-1:30 Mon-Fri; Dinner: Daily 6-9:45. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)



D Revisits The Paradise. If ever you wanted a restaurant to shine, it’s this one. As the cornerstone of the Union Terminal renovation project, the Paradise must prove a success for this ambitious resurrection to thrive. It would be a shame if it didn’t. The face lift given the Terminal is stunning, a throwback to the days when the railroads were prosperous and proud. The Paradise, one of several eating and drinking alcoves skirting the central courtyard, is warm and comfortable, relaxed by a balcony pianist. But in spite of its physical attractions, the place must serve good food to draw-it is, after all, downtown. The menu is simple, which is smart; we’ve had some trouble with their seafood before, so this visit we stuck with simple beef dishes. The strip steak in Bordelaise was, alas, a complete failure: tough cut of meat, overcooked, in a sauce that was more like plain old brown gravy. The pepper steak was much better, very tender, in an acceptable peppered brown sauce, but nothing spectacular. Following the trend of mediocrity, trimmings ranged from a generous crab cocktail to a fair vegetable soup to salads drenched in vinegar. All in all, not what we’d hoped for. The staff was friendly and the service precise, but if they don’t get the kitchen in order here soon, the Paradise may be lost. (Union Terminal, 400 S Houston. 741-6385. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner: Mon-Sai 5-11. Sun noon-11. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



Three Vikings. This is a delightful restaurant, unlike any other in town. Run by a Swedish family, Three Vikings features one of the nicest fish dishes around – a perfectly cooked filet of sole with crabmeat and a light, lemony sauce. Other treats are Swedish steak, lightly steamed fresh vegetables, terrific shrimp chowder, and chocolate cheese pie. Service is friendly and helpful. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Man-Sal 6-11. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



DELICATESSENS



Kuby’s. Some purists gripe a bit – Kuby’s gives them lean corned beef when they’d prefer greasy, plain old rye or white when they’d like an onion roll. But over the years, most of us have adjusted, and keep on turning up at Kuby’s for good thick soups, a succulent tartar sandwich, delicious hot potato salad and sauerkraut, first-class wurst, and pastries that have caused many patrons to take up jogging in penance. Always crowded at noon, but you can slip around to the take-out window for a brown bagger that will make you the envy of the office’s egg-salad set. (6001 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Mon-Sat 8-6. sandwiches till 5:30. No reservations. MC for purchases over $15. $)



Wall’s. A cozy deli/restaurant that offers everything you can reasonably expect in these parts, including an extensive list of triple-decker sandwiches, generous servings of creamy chopped liver, and kreplach cooked exactly right, with just a glimmer of schmaltz on top. Some of the desserts are disappointing (chocolate pie with instant-pudding filling and a Graham-cracker-and-Nilla-wafer crust?) but most offerings are solid deli fare, served up cheerfully by some very busy waitresses. As a self-respecting deli must. Wall’s serves Dr. Brown’s cream soda. (10749 Preston Rd near Royal Ln. 691-4444. Daily 7 am-7:30pm. Reservations. MC, V. $$)



FRENCH



Calluaud. We’ll miss the homey old place on Fairmount, but Guy and Martine Calluaud have brought a great deal of warmth to their new quarters on McKinney. Better yet, Guy’s kitchen is back in action. The lunch menu is essentially the same – divine omelettes, soups, pates, and salads, marvelous filet of sole and steak Parisien. The one new addition is the excellent calf’s liver, done with onions and a touch of vinegar. The dinner menu now includes treats like pheasant and squab, though if you’re in the mood for exotic fowl, the best we’ve tasted is the quail in garlic-and-cognac sauce. Another new item, the filet mignon en croute in Madeira sauce, bears the Calluaud trademark of elegant simplicity. For dessert lovers, the legendary fruit tarts are still available, accompanied now by fine souffles. We know we’re raving, but Guy Calluaud is quite possibly the best chef in town. (2619 McKinney Ave. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

La Cave. Great for a light meal and good wine in pleasant surroundings. The gimmicks are the wine bar and open wine cellar, which allow a wide sampling of foreign and domestic wines at bargain prices, but La Cave succeeds on culinary grounds, too. We’ve had excellent onion soup, avocado stuffed with crabmeat, and chicken liver pate, as well as some exceptional desserts – try the apple cheesecake and orange-flavored double cream cheese. Service is informative and efficient. (2926 N Henderson. 826-2190. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Fri 5:30-midnight, Sat 1 pm-1 am; open all day for package wine sales. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $)

Le France Co. A bustling little place with some of the flavor of a French cafe and some of the quality, too. Lunch is a small selection of soups, salads, omelettes, and sandwiches that vary in quality-the standout being the onion soup. Dinner is much better, featuring several well-prepared entrees, including recently an émince de capon a I’lndienne in a delightful light curry sauce. The crème caramel is a knockout for dessert. The wine list is short and over-priced. Cheery and casual, a good spot for a light meal. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 742-2276. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11-2:30; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10; closed Sun & Mon. MC, V, AE. $$)

Jean Claude. An exquisite restaurant, with care taken at every point of preparation and service. Chef Jean Claude Prevot prepares everything in his open kitchen; the menu is small but changes every night, and always offers an opportunity to try something new. Recent delights have included marvelous duck liver paté, shrimp appetizer prepared with walnuts and curry sauce (this would have been unspeakable almost anywhere else in town), veal tournedos with green peppercorns, and fresh Maine lobster in a light cream sauce. For dessert, try one of the perfect souffles. It’s hard to think of anything bad to say about this place; the prices, while high, are nowhere near the highest in town, and when the food is this good, who cares? One of the city’s top three. (2520 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Dinner: Tue-Sal 6:30-9:30. Reservations only. MC, V, AE. $$$)



Patry’s. Patry’s has aged better than many of the city’s old-line continental restaurants because it acknowledges its limitations: The kitchen has the textbook dishes down pat and doesn’t take many liberties. For openers, ry the stuffed leeks or the vicoyssoise, as good as any in town. The coq au vin is excellent, as is the escalope de veau with cream sauce. The only flop among the entrees was the Dover sole meuniere: nice sauce, lousy fish. For dessert, there’s a Grand Marnier souffle topped with apricot sauce. Rather chilly decor, but warm and polished service. Overall, a dependable if not adventurous restaurant. (2504 McKinney. 748-3754. Tue-Sun 6-11, Sat till 11:30, closed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Mr. Peppe. Once one of the best restaurants in the city, though by today’s standards both decor and menu could use some new life. Mr. Peppe covers the old French standbys, from pate to chocolate mousse, and delivers competent versions in most cases – recent strong points were surprisingly good beef Wellington, nicely cooked fresh vegetables, and an excellent créme caramel. With the exception of its charming waiters, however, whatever gave Mr. Peppe an aura of elegance and excitement has faded. (5617 W Lovers Ln. 352-5976. Mon-Sat 6-10, closed Sun. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

INDIAN



D Revisits India House. Those who have bad memories of the old India House – and frankly that includes us – are encouraged to give the revised version a try. The kitchen has undergone a rather stunning rejuvenation, raising hopes that Dallas will at last get a curry worthy of the name. And be prepared-the Vindaloo (hot) curries here are the genuine article, not some feeble American imitation. We were also impressed with the Saagwala dishes (meat cooked in a spicy spinach puree) and the Bhun-na (marinated meat, seafood, or vegetables sauteed in spices), with special praise going to the lamb and the shrimp. The only disappointment was the chicken tandoori, underbaked and bland. If you’re not especially hungry, try the hors d’oeuvres platter and several of the breads, maybe Naan and a meat or vegetable paranthha. The extensive dessert menu includes a mango sherbet that is, well, different. (5422 E Mockingbird. 823-1000. Lunch: 11:30-2:30; Dinner 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11. Reservations. MC, V. $$)



ITALIAN

Campisi’s. Everyone’s fantasy of the neighborhood Italian restaurant – small, dark, and bustling, with family portraits on the wall and an army of no-nonsense waitresses. Unfortunately, the food is pretty ordinary – the kitchen does well with staples like pizza, Iasagna and ravioli (the last is homemade), but tends to manhandle mildly sophisticated dishes like veal scaloppine marsala and scampi. So stick to the basics and enjoy the atmosphere. At its best on a Friday night. (5610 East Mockingbird Ln. 827-0355. Mon-Fri 11-midnight, Sat till I am. Sun noon-midnight. No credit cards, but personal checks accepted. Reservations for 6 or more. $)



lannl’s. A family-run restaurant with excellent pasta – try the baked ziti with eggplant and mozzarella or the buttery, thick fettucini Ianni – and terrific appetizers. The “house specialties,” on the other hand, are nothing special. Good desserts and coffee; tacky decor. (2230 Greenville. 826-6161. Dinner: daily 5-11:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)



Italian Pavilion. An almost overbearingly opulent restaurant atop the Le Baron Hotel, which nevertheless has its virtues, including attentive service, comfortable seating, and a good selection of Italian wines. Unfortunately, much of the food is only so-so. Recommended dishes are the veal Fiorentino with butter and béarnaise and the shrimp Fra Diavolo with peppery tomato sauce. Vegetable side dishes are excellent. Somebody should take a cloth to the glasses and silver, though – housekeeping was wretched on a recent visit. $10 annual membership required for alcohol. (Le Baron Hotel, 1055 Regal Row at Carpenter Fwy. 634-8550 ex 7200. Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11:30, closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Lombardi’s. Servizio con brio. That’s one reason Lombardi’s has become one of the most enjoyable restaurants in town. Another is the food. The saltimbocca is right at the top, along with the veal limone and the zuppa de pesce, which is now served at lunch every Friday. And don’t pass up the mussels and langostinos when they’re available. The pasta dishes can be uneven, but with so many unusual choices, why be mundane? The more limited lunch menu includes roast veal and peppers, frittatas (an Italian omelette shaped like a pancake), and excellent spinach salad. (2815 McKinney. 823-6040. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, dosed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Paisan’s. A deceptive place, whose unengag-ing exterior hides a splendid kitchen. We’ve never had anything but masterly meals here (though we’ve heard of occasional off nights). The best opener is the zuppa pavese, beef broth with a poached egg and Parmesan, but it’s with the entrees that this menu shines. A few favorites: veal Siciliano, topped with eggplant and green peppers in a wonderfully rich tomato sauce; and sausage alla Turiddu with black olives and green pepper, surely the best sausage dish in town. For dessert, you need not look past the cheesecake with white raisins and pine nuts. (9405 Overlake. 352-1765. Daily 5:30-11. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)



D Revisits Mario’s. A mainline classy restaurant, one that loads of long-time city residents return to on their Big Nights Out. And rightly so, for Mario’s kitchen is capable of great things, even if its standard performance is less than consistently excellent. We hit on two out of three appetizers last visit-the fumble was the crab cocktail, a generous portion of perfectly fresh crabmeat doused, unfortunately, with heavy “cocktail sauce”; if Mario’s patrons like ketchup enough to justify serving it, it should at least come on the side, with lots of lemon slices as an alternative. But the hot antipasto, a sampling of seafood appetizers that resembled an Italian pu pu tray, was wondertul, and our bluepoints on the hall shell were fresh and cold. We fared as well with the entrees-a delightful lemon veal, straightforward and very tender, and some of the most lender lamb chops around, the kind that make you want to pick the bone clean. The baked oysters Mario didn’t work as well-the sample on the hot antipasto plate was perfect, a truce between the oyster and bread crumbs, but the entree arrived at room temperature, with crumbs turned to sludge. For dessert, try the chocolate cheesecake. It’s light, really more cake than cheese, and delicious. Or order a Cognac and coffee-if that ritual ever makes perfect sense, it’s at Mario’s. The one-item dress code requires men to wear jackets. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Pietro’s. High spirits prevail here – on a good night, spontaneous toasts, crying babies, and a hearty Muzak rendition of “Santa Lucia” blend into one of the most pleasantly chaotic atmospheres in town. The food seems secondary, though it’s pretty good – creamy taglio-lini with salty ham slices, fresh lemon veal, tremendous crème caramel, and a nice wine list. The minestrone, spaghetti, and salads are ordinary, but it’s a big menu. Expect crowds on weekends. (5722 Richmond off Greenville. 824-9403. TueThur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till II, closed Sun & Mon. No reservations. MC, V. $$$)

II Sorrento. II Sorrento reopened recently after a serious kitchen fire, and on the face of things, nothing has changed: the same campy decor, pro waiters, strolling violinist and accordionist. The kitchen is even better than it was, however. We tried some old favorites and found them improved over our last visits – tournedos Rossini, as close as you come in this town to the real thing; saltimbocca with a light wine sauce laced with sage, excellent veal, and a thick bed of fresh spinach. The vegetables, soups, salads, and desserts were all good, but the wonderful entrees overshadowed them. Welcome back, II Sorrento. (8616 Turtle Creek, north of Northwest Hwy. 352-8759. Daily 5:30-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations except on Fri & Sal. All credit cards. $$$)



MAINLY FOB LUNCH



The Bronx. Quick and friendly service makes lunch at the Bronx a treat. Try the inventive chef’s salad, with all the usual ingredients plus guacamole, black olives and red onion; the omelettes; and the hearty, homestyle mushroom meatloaf. The dinner menu, posted on a chalkboard, changes nightly. Don’t miss the creamy, rich chocolate mousse, with whipped cream and nuts – if you can’t finish it on the premises, they’ll give you a doggie bag. Finish up with coffee, a blend of French roast and mocha. (3835 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn. 521-5821. Mon-Thur 11:30-12:30 am, Fri till 1:30, Sat 6-1:30, bar till 2, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V. $$)

Stoneleigh P. A made-over drugstore, with two very popular items on the menu – lentil soup and a cheeseburger on a dark rye bun with Provolone cheese. Other standouts include broiled boneless chicken and sausage sandwich. The Godiva chocolate pie is great for dessert. Check out the eclectic jukebox – everything from classical to country – and the marvelous magazine rack. (2926 Maple. 741-0824. Mon-Thur ll-midnight, Fri & Sat till 1:30 am, Sun 12-midnight; bar daily till I am, Fri & Sat till 2. No reservations. No credit cards. S)



MEXICAN



Casa Dominguez. Casa Dominguez was the first of Pete Dominguez’ chain of Tex-Mex enterprises, and is still by far the best. The tacos are still crisp, with perhaps the best-seasoned filling in town. Over the years, the menu has expanded into some specialties: an excellent carne asada, fine tacos al carbon, a good chile relleno. In addition to the standard bowl of hot sauce, with your tostados you get a delightful pico de gallo-a spicy vegetable mixture with carefully seeded jalapenos. There are some weak spots: the cheese on the con queso items is gluey-apparently a pasteurized process cheese “extended” with flour-and the tasty guacamole comes in stingy portions. The other Dominguez restaurants are pleasant -especially the cheerful Los Vaqueros in Highland Park Village-but the food is best at Casa Dominguez. (2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. No reservations. AE, DC, MC, V. $)

Chiquita. Chiquita has been one of the city’s most popular restaurants for years, largely because Mario Leal is usually on the spot to see that things go right. Popularity means crowds – big crowds – though once the food arrives you probably won’t care. Stick to the specialties here, especially the pescado marinera and the grilled chicken breast with lemon-butter sauce. The standards – enchiladas, tacos, rice and beans – are fair to good, but avoid anything with ranchera sauce, a concoction that tastes like Campbell’s tomato soup. The appetizers and dishes made with Linares cheese, like the queso flameado, are wonderful. Bright, charming surroundings and attentive service. (3810 Congress, off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till II. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $)



El Taxco. This place made its reputation with generous, delicious, cheap Tex-Mex, though it’s no longer as consistent as it was. Stick to the standards – enchiladas, tacos, rice and beans – and you’ll probably find it satisfactory. But the more ambitious the item, the more unpredictable the results. Watch out for the chile relleno, a flaming capsule loaded with seeds, each a tiny dynamite charge; the cheese enchiladas, topped with a pleasant tomato and onion sauce, are a better bet. El Taxco now has a full bar, but the drinks are pretty bad – especially the bilious Kool-Aid margaritas, mostly syrup with a drop of tequila. Service can be hassled and surly. (2126 N St Paul at McKin-ney. 742-0747. Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sal till 10, closed Tues. No reservations. MC, V. $)



Herrera Cafe. Forget the Lemmon Avenue location and head straight for the Maple Avenue hole in the wall. You’ll probably stand in line, but the food has soul. All the standard Tex-Mex fare is good, especially the nachos, guacamole, and magnificent thick flour tortil-las. Portions are large: Two people can stuff themselves for well under $10. No alcohol served, so bring your own. (3902 Maple. 526-9427. Mon, Wed, Thur 9-8, Fri-Sun till 10, closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Javier’s. One of the most attractive dining rooms in town, and some of the most interesting food. It pays to be adventurous here – Javier’s eschews standard Tex-Mex in favor of steaks, seafood, and chicken dishes from Mexico, like shrimp broiled with lots of fresh garlic and chicken in the best mole sauce we’ve had. The thin flour tortillas wrapped around baked Linares cheese, green pepper, onion, and sausage make a wonderful appetizer. Save room for the crepes topped with cajeta (caramel sauce) and flamed with Amaretto and brandy -they’re a knockout. (4912 Cole Ave. 521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat till 11:30. bar till 2 am. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Raphael’s. This standby lacks some of the pizzazz that once set it apart from Dallas’ other Mexican restaurants, but there’s still plenty to like here, from the cozy ranch-style decor to the attentive service and occasionally wonderful food. Thequeso flameado appetizer and the flautitas are excellent appetizers, and among the main dishes, we especially enjoyed the flounder Veracruzano and the came asada. You probably won’t enjoy the crowds, though; the dinner rush is being handled more efficiently than before, but there’s still a good chance of sitting on somebody’s enchiladas or having somebody sit on yours. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640. Mon-Fri 11:30-10:30, Sal noon-10:30, closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. MC. V, AE. $$)



ORIENTAL



Bo Bo China. Don’t let the plastic food on display in the entryway scare you, because good Mandarin cooking waits inside. The Peking duck, with its honey-crisped skin served as a separate course, is outstanding (a day’s notice is required on this order), as is the Mo Shu Pork, delicately seasoned and served with four paper-thin pancakes and plum sauce. (Two weaker entrees are the shrimp with lobster sauce and the Bo Bo Beef.) The appetizers are a real treat, especially the Pot Stickers – deep-fried meat ravioli. The service is attentive and friendly. There is one drawback: no liquor. (10630 Church Road at LBJ Freeway. 349-2411. Lunch: Daily 11-2:30, except Sun & Mon; Dinner: Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat till 10, Sun till 9. Reservations. MC. V. $S)



D Revisits China Coast. China Coast has all the charm of a Grange hall, but the food is good enough to distract you. The menu is standard Hunan-Szechuan, with a strong emphasis on seafood dishes. These are certainly the stars, particularly the green jade scallops (with snow peas, broccoli, and water chestnuts), the four-flavor shrimp (actually one-flavor shrimp and three-flavor vegetables), and the crispy whole fish-in our case yellow tail-that was served with a delicate, non-competitive sweet and sour sauce. China Coast outdoes most of the seafood restaurants in town; their other dishes are less memorable, though still above average. We were delighted by the sliced chicken with orange peel, but found both the Hunan lamb and the eggplant with garlic sauce badly over-seasoned. Scorching, in fact. Our appetizers were also fairly ordinary except for superb paper chicken and a hot-and-sour soup that can give you laryngitis (we can’t say it’s good but it certainly is dramatic). The staff is efficient and eager to please. For the most part, China Coast does precisely that. (2920 Northwest Hwy at Bachman Blvd. 350-6282. Mon-Thur 11:30 am – 11 pm, Fri & Sal till midnight. Sun 12-11. Reservations. AE, MC, V. $$)



Fuji-Ya. Possibly the best Japanese restaurant in town, and certainly the most reasonably priced. You have to work to spend $10 and can usually eat like an emperor for considerably less. Start with the sashimi (raw fish), especially if it includes tuna or yellow-tail. The egg rolls, shaped like ravioli and deep-fried, are delicious, as is the suimono soup, a chicken broth with pieces of shrimp and chicken added. Among the entrees, only the Yosenabe (a vegetable and seafood stew) was below par: It tasted cooked out. The shrimp tempura and the sukiyaki are both excellent, but if you prefer something less ordinary try the yakisoba (a pan-fried noodle with beef and vegetables) or the Tohkatsu (pork cutlet in special sauces). For dessert there’s only sherbet and a Japanese bean cake, which our waitress said Americans don’t like. She was right. Fuji-Ya has also begun preparing sushi on Thursdays. Lunch is limited to a few teriyaki dishes and a daily special. Ours was a delicious chicken cutlet tempura. Club memberships required for alcohol. (13050 Coil Road. 690-8396. Tues-Sun 11-10: lunch 11-2. Closed Monday. Reservations. MC, V. $$)



Hunan. Where the Szechuan boom began, and still some of the best in town. A current favorite is the San Shien soup (pork, shrimp, chicken), and the abalone with chicken is a strong second place. Everything except champagne chicken and crab velvet-bad ideas to start with-seems to be top-notch. On its way to becoming a Dallas institution. (5214 Greenville at Lovers Ln. 369-4578. Mon-Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat till midnight, Sun till 11. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Mihama Ya. A family-run Japanese restaurant with a gift shop up front. Terrific shrimp tempura and chicken teriyaki; delightful yakiniku, a beef and vegetable dish; and wonderful chicken kara age, marinated and deep fried. The only weak spots are the soups and salads. An off-beat, thoroughly delightful place. (7713 Inwood Rd. 351-9491. Lunch: Tue-Thurs 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Tue-Thurs 5:30-10, Fri & Sal till 11, Sun 1-10. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $)

Royal Tokyo. This restaurant has always tended to be stronger on theatrics than on performance, and the situation hasn’t changed. In the Hibachi Room, for example, the chefs like to juggle salt shakers and chip vegetables onto your plate while preparing hibachi shrimp (very good) and teriyaki steak (ordinary). Skip the special dinners (they’re overpriced and undistinguished) and try one of the sashimi (raw fish) dishes, the shabu-shabu (beef and vegetables cooked in broth), the yakitori, or the kani-crab fingers. Everything else is fair-to-middling, and you may have to wait an hour or more to be seated, even with reservations. All in all, Royal Tokyo needs to do some tightening. (7525 Greenville Ave. 368-3304. Lunch: Daily 11:30-2 except Sat; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat till 11:30, Sun till 10. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Szechuan. A dependable neighborhood restaurant with the menu shared by most of the town’s Szechuan-style restaurants. A few of the “Chef’s Specialties” really are special: Try the house chicken with scallions, celery, and green peppers. One of this restaurant’s virtues is a dependable take-out service. The moo-shi pork is an old take-out favorite that is sometimes sensational. Very friendly, ever-smiling staff. (4117 Lemmon near Douglas. 521-6981. Sun-Thurs 11:30-11. Fri & Sat till 12. Reservations on weekends. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

South China. Its competitors waver and topple, but South China continues to produce consistently excellent Chinese cuisine. Sweet and sour shrimp doesn’t come any better in Dallas, nor ginger beef more delicately seasoned. Recent discoveries include the moo shi pork, with a delicious filling, and (he white mushrooms with crisp broccoli. South China sometimes fumbles the appetizers, but the shrimp toast, beef strips, fried wonton, and sizzling rice soup are fine. Not to be missed: Saturday and Sunday at lunch the chef prepares Chinese delicacies not on the regular menu for bargain prices. (5424 E Mockingbird. 826-5420. Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30, Sal & Sun noon-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thurs 5-10, Fri & Sal till 12. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)



SEAFOOD



Fausto’s. A chic, comfortable grotto off the lobby of the Hyatt Regency Hotel, with varied seafood dishes ranging from the simple to the excessively complex. We ate well as long as we stayed with the plainer fare-raw oysters, broiled Gulf trout, gumbo, and red snapper Provencale were all good. So was the imposing Crab Louis, a huge platter of excellent crabmeat, lettuce, grapes, tomatoes, and fresh pineapple that is probably the perfect uptown lunch. More complicated fare didn’t hold up as well, and is probably irrelevant to basic seafood lovers anyway. The steaks are fine. Fausto’s offers fresh lobster, but they only come in on Fridays and Saturdays, so reserve your table early-we arrived at 10 o’clock Friday night, and the Dental Mid-America conventioneers had eaten every one. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2; Dinner: daily 6-11:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

S&D Oyster Company. You take no chances at S&D: The menu is limited to (he few broiled and fried items they can handle. The oysters are plump and juicy, the shrimp sweet, the red snapper broiled to the point of perfection. And the gumbo is the real thing, full of shrimp. There are some weak points: dense, dry hush-puppies, too-sweet desserts, a bar limited to beer and wine, and deafening clatter when the place is crowded – as it always is. Fortunately, the pleasures outweigh the pains. (2701 McKin-ney near Routh. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11-10. Fri & Sal till II, closed Sun. No reservations. MC. V. $$)



SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES



Broussard’s. In a new location, it still has a raucous boarding house atmosphere and superb oysters, fresh or fried; sweet catfish; outstanding piquante and gumbo; and the best crawfish this side of Baton Rouge. The only weak spots are tough and tasteless frog legs and the jambalaya, which frequently suffers from over-exposure to the infra-red lamps. Bring your own liquor. (707 N Bell Line Rd, Irving, I mile S of Rte 183. 255-8024. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. No credit cards. No reservations. $$)

D Revisits Celebration. It’s amazing that, in these days of restaurant mimicry, no one else in town has successfully duplicated (or even tried to duplicate) Celebration’s winning formula. It’s consummately simple, and hasn’t changed from the day they opened: five entrees to choose from, salad and fresh vegetables served in big bowls (“family-style”) at an all-you-can-eat rate, dessert extra. Period. It works so well they won’t take reservations and people still line up on the front porch and wait for half an hour. Of the five entrees, all as simple as can be, we’ve always touted the pot roast. This time we tried the broiled trout, the baked chicken, and the meat loaf. Same result as always: plain, edible, enjoyable. Most people probably come here for the fresh vegetables, a nutritional fix; they serve a vegetables-only dinner and a lot of people cash in on the bargain. Probably the best thing you can say about Celebration is that there’s really nothing new to say. And yes, you still get those great little round biscuits and, yes, they’re still delicious. (4503 W Lovers Ln. 351-5681. Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11, Sun 5-10. No reservations. MC. V. $)



D Revisits Pittman House. A smart rap across the knuckles is in order for this pleasantly appointed restaurant. It boasted a kind of classy home cooking, food like mother would have made if she’d been really good at it. And sometimes, especially at dinner time, it delivered. But lately things have slipped. Lunch was always a little chancy – as if they were trying out things they wouldn’t dare serve at dinner – but the avocado-crabmeat-and-bacon sandwich was terrific. Lately, that has turned into a mayonnaise-laden mess with a few filaments of crab, some overcooked bacon, and stringy avocado. The little complimentary rolls seemed to get smaller and more warmed-over. Dinner recently was a little better, but there were some bobbles. The shrimp rémoulade was very nice, with fresh-tasting shrimp, but on another night the “Leslie’s Shrimp” entree was anything but fresh – and overpowered by spices and awash in butter. The green chili-quiche appetizer had an unpleasant consistency – partly watery, partly cardboardy. The avocado dip for the fresh vegetables could have been mayonnaise and green food coloring for all we could tell. As for the entrees, the red snapper was overcooked to the point of mush, and the quail, while tasty, was served with too many buttery side dishes – the choice of a rice or potato casserole creates some unappealing flavor combinations and the effect was cloying and greasy. Desserts were still pretty good: The pound cake and ice cream ball were pleasant, but the strawberry ice cream was frozen so hard it skittered around the plate until we finally gave up. Time to rethink your menu, Pittmans. Simplify, simplify. (2911 Roulh. 745-1149. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Sal & Sun 12-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thurs 6-10, Fri & Sal 6-10:30. Reservations evenings only. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Red Moon Cafe. Things are looking up at this attractive little neighborhood restaurant. Creole specialties are the heart of the menu, and the Red Moon’s versions are good (if occasionally unorthodox). But don’t stop there: The liver and onions, omelettes, salads, and vegetables are terrific, as are the homemade desserts (especially the buttermilk-pecan pie). Early risers should check out the breakfast menu, which runs from grits and pancakes to fresh croissants and some of the best coffee in town. Already a neighborhood resource; with a little more polish in the service and a cheerier decor, the Red Moon could be a real contender. (4537 Cole at Knox. 526-5391. Breakfast and lunch: Mon-Sat 7:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sal till 11; Sun Brunch: 10-2. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

Sonny Bryan’s. A down-home barbecue joint furnished with old school desks and picnic tables – a distinctive Dallas institution. The 800 pounds of meat they’re reported to cook every day is usually gone by late afternoon. Don’t pass up the onion rings or the fries, and the crisp fresh cole slaw is great. (2202 In wood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 7 am-6 pm, Sal 7-3, Sun 11-2. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



STEAKS, BUROERS, ETC.



Chili’s. Not ambitious, but expert. The Old Timer (mustard, lettuce, tomato, etc.) and the Terlingua Pride (everything in the kitchen plus chili) are the best of the burgers, the soft tacos the best of the other items. You’ve probably tasted better chili, but never better French fries. Pleasantly casual atmosphere and quick and friendly service. There’s usually a long waiting line. (7567 Greenville at Meadow. 361-4371. Sun-Thurs 11-11:30, Fri-Sat 11-1:30. No reservations. MC. V. $)

Cork ’n’ Cleaver. Despite the cute name and the fact that this is a chain restaurant, the prime rib is excellent – and you can have seconds of it at no extra charge. The steaks are equally good, and the salad bar is varied: spinach, mushrooms, cottage cheese, cauliflower, sprouts, grated cheese, and assorted other goodies – a lunchtime meal in itself for $3.25. The only annoyance is a phony Colorado motif, especially in the bar. The current leader in the steak-and-salad-bar sweepstakes. (8080 N Central Expwy at Caruth Haven. 361-8808. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat till 12, Sun till 10. Reservations Sun-Thurs only. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Houlihan’s. Unlike some of its Greenville Avenue neighbors, Houlihan’s lakes itself seriously as a restaurant. For starters, have the fried zucchini strips or the boiled spiced shrimp with red sauce. Try the gazpacho, which is available with gin and vermouth as a sort of Spanish martini. You’ll fare best among the burgers and omelettes and steaks, but the roast duck with orange sauce is surprisingly good. Desserts look tempting but are mediocre. Since you’ll probably have to wait in the bar, it’s nice that the drinks are excellent. (4 North Park East at Park Lane and Central. 361-9426. Sun-Thurs 11-11, Fri A Sal till 1 am. No reservations. MC. V, AE, DC. $$)

Kirby’s. Step inside and you’re back in the Fifties, when dining out meant sitting in a very dark place and eating a huge piece of meat. It’s still great. Kirby’s steaks are tender, among the best in town, and priced to compete with the chains’. You might want to order rarer than usual, though – our steaks were left on the fire a bit too long. Kirby’s offers all the salad you can eat (though it’s just iceberg and cherry tomatoes) and fine baked potatoes topped with everything. (3715 Greenville. 823-7296. Tues-Sun 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Strictly Ta-Bu. The decor is Forties seedy, overpoweringly seedy in the daylight. But the food is a pleasant surprise. The pizza is excellent (though small for the price), a crispy-crust version with plenty of cheese and fresh toppings. The burgers are good, as are the Italian entrees listed on the blackboard. Ta-Bu also offers a dining adventure: the Ta-Bu special, a sandwich with ham, turkey, bacon, and a mouthful of Thousand Island dressing-a lapful if you bite incautiously. There’s live jazz most evenings and a great jukebox the rest of the time. (4111 Lomo Alto. 526-9325. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; Dinner: Sun-Thurs 5-12, Fri & Sat 6-1. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

T.G.I. Friday’s. Dozens of burgers; enormous portions of beef, chicken, and shrimp; thick, gooey desserts – Friday’s menu rolls on and on. We’re especially fond of the pocket sandwiches, steak fingers, and crabmeat-and-arti-choke omelette. For appetizers, try the baked brie or the zucchini slices, and for a treat, a side order of fried potato skins. Always mobbed with singles, but there are compensations – Mexican pizza, for instance, and those fried artichoke hearts. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville. 363-5353. Daily 11:30 am-2 am; Sun Brunch 11-2. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)



FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS

Angelo’s An old, shacky building in an industrial complex, with regulars sipping Coors from tub-sized goblets, and Willie wailing out of the juke box. Hard to believe it’s anything special, but there are those who clam Angelo’s serves Texas’ finest barbecue. We can’t disagree. The brisket is fork-tender, perfectly cooked, and topped with excellent sauce. The ribs are even better, and the hot links a spicy addendum to the combination plate. Prices are high, and servings enormous. Angelo’s has doubled its seating area in the last year, but a wait is inevitable. Still in place are the moldy moose head and the enormous stuffed bear wearing T-shirt and cap. (2533 White Settlement Road. (817) 332-0357. Mon-Sat 11-10. No reservations. No credit cards. $))

The Balcony. It will never be mistaken for a great restaurant, but it’s a pretty good one, and the place for Ridglea society matrons to meet for lunch. The trout amandine was too dry on a recent visit, and the beef oriental is probably called beef stronganoff in other restaurants but there was a very good vegetable soup. The service is brisk, competent, and friendly, and the house white wine excellent. (6100 Camp Bowie. (817) 731-3719. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sal till 10:30, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Carriage House. You’ll need a reservation here; there’s hardly a lull in the throngs of people, no place to wait, and limited parking. All of which suggests that the Carriage House’s reputation for excellence continues to be deserved. The menu is lopsided toward beef (this place knows its customers), but offers more adventurous dishes as well-we tried the pepper steak and the veal Milanese, both of which were done to perfection. The salads were crisp and cold, and topped with the house’s tasty avocado dressing. Service, however, is very slow. (5136 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2: Dinner: daily 6-11, Sun 6-10; Sun Brunch: 11-3. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Edelweiss German Restaurant. The attraction here isn’t the food – it’s the Gemutlichkeit, the infectious good humor that fills this huge West Side beerhall. Bernd Schnerzinger, with a voice big enough to be heard from the mountaintops, sings nightly with an oom-pah band; singalongs and dancing are encouraged. Service is belter than good, and so is the food; as authentically German as one finds in Texas. Although the schniizel sometimes resembles thinly battered chicken-fried steak, the sausages, sauerkraut, cabbage, and potato pancakes are tasty, and the Black Forest cake excellent. (3801-A Southwest Blvd. (817) 738-5934. Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10:30. Reservations. MC. V, DC. $$)



D Revisits Cattlemen’s. Funny, it doesn’t look like a shrine. But it is, of course-a monument to The Great Beef God. Cattlemen’s, without the hyperbole, is a world-class steak restaurant settled into the pseudo-western facade of the Fort Worth stockyards. Since 1947 the restaurant has been receiving national awards, and we have never been served anything but the best there. Indeed, we know of no one who has ever complained of Cattlemen’s steaks. This lime we visited twice, first with a northern friend for lunch. A confirmed escargot-gourmet, he tackled the 18-ounce Texas strip sirloin and was born again. We ate lightly, the down-home Arkansas Traveler special, roast beef on open corn-bread with brown gravy and black-eyed peas. Nothing better. Later we tried Cattlemen’s on a Thursday evening (and waited in line for a table). We chose the medium T-Bone and the ribeye. What can we say? Each was perfect, fork-tender and juicy. If we have to search for an area to complain, the coconut pie (made in Cattlemen’s kitchen) was straight from the refrigerator and too cold. As usual, the service was so efficient and professional we over-tipped. The men who know beef best eat at Cattlemen’s. We salute their taste. (2458 N Main. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11-10:30, Sat 4:30-10:30. closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)



Endicotl’s Ore House. Despite its name, this massive replica of a Colorado gold mine makes its way as a middle-of-the-road family place. We tried the nachos, perhaps the best in town – a huge plate of tostadas overflowing with meat, beans, cheese, and jalapeno peppers. The onion rings had virtually no taste, but the Mexican burger (with chili and cheese) was delicious. From there, we moved to the “steak on a pick and shrimp,” an odd shishkebob; the meat was excellent but the shrimp was under-cooked. Good crisp salads and sweet Italian house dressing. The waiters have stopped introducing themselves to each table, but they continue to rush patrons through the meal. Our time: 40 minutes from sit-down to tip. (7101 Calmont. (817) 732-8031. Lunch: daily 11-2; Dinner: daily 4:30-11:30. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Hedary’s. The food is pure Lebanese, prepared and served by Hedary, his wife, and seven of their nine children. The result is a long roster of exotic dishes served in a mildly erratic fashion. We’ve tried the Hummus Bit-Tahini, a salad of garbanzo beans, pine nuts, spices, and ground beef – the combination was fresh and delicious – and the Frarej entree, baked chicken and vegetables basted with olive oil and lemon juice. Finish up with Arabian coffee, brewed bitter and black for sad occasions and sweet for good times. Ours was sweet. (3308 Fairfield in Ridglea Center. (817) 731-6961. Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. No reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Joe T. Garcia’s. Garcia’s is Fort Worth’s favorite Mexican restaurant. The food is southern Mexico-style, less spicy than Tex-Mex, and the menu is limited, a set meal at a set price. But most people don’t care – they come mainly for the atmosphere. You can eat in the old house or alfresco beside the pool. The service is often slow, crowds overflow, it’s noisy, confused and very friendly. (2201 N. Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Sun 5-10:30. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Kincaid’s. The best hamburgers in Texas, maybe the world. Kincaid’s is a gourmet burger joint cleverly disguised as a neighborhood grocery store. The burgers come from behind the meat counter and they are huge, juicy and freshly made, with meat patties the size of small sofa pillows. Kincaid’s has Texas deli items, too, for takeout – the chicken-fried steak, cornbread, and barbecue are excellent. The crowds are huge: You wait for your order, and eat standing up. But no one cares. (4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Mon-Sat 10-6:15. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



London House. An old-line favorite for steak-lovers, London House has the basics down pat – salad, beef, and potato. The decor is ersatz-Tudor English, but a less obvious forgery than those beef-and-ale chain operations. The steaks come in rather large sizes for the price. If there is a criticism, it could be that the lettuce is not always as fresh as it should be on the heavily-stocked salad bar. (4475 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-4141. Dinner: Mon-Thurs 5:30-11, Fri-Sat till midnight. Sun till 10:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Massey’s. More properly known as Herb Massey’s Dinner Place, this red-leatherette-booth cafe is always crowded. The reason is chicken-fried steak – the very best, served with salad, French fries, cream gravy and homemade biscuits. (Massey’s menu ranges from Mexican to seafood, but chicken-fried steak is the piece de resistance.) Service is fast and folksy. (1805 Eighth Ave. (817) 924-8242. Daily: 6:30 am-10:30 pm. No reservations. MC, V. $)

Merrimac. This restaurant /disco sprang to life beside the Trinity River and instantly became a crowded weekend favorite. The food is nothing spectacular (although the Alaskan king crab legs are delicious and well-prepared) and service could be better, so it must be the ambiance, which is cozy and somewhat romantic. The disco is upstairs and evening diners are shielded from the music, but you may be happier with everything at lunch when the Merrimac is less frenetic. Without reservations on Friday and Saturday evenings, expect an hour’s wait. (1541 Merrimac Circle off University Dr. (817) 332-9306. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11; Fri-Sai 6-midnight; Sun Brunch 11:30-2:30. Reservations. AE, MC, V. $$)

Old Swiss House. An oasis in Fort Worth’s heavy beef desert, thanks to Walter Kauf-mann, the only local chef who can be trusted with sauces more complicated than red-eye gravy. He’s deft in the opening courses – a light touch of garlic in the escargots (not on the menu, though he occasionally prepares them as a specialty), and excellent salads, although we would prefer a choice of dressings. Then the entrees: goulash with mushrooms swathed in burgundy sauce, and from Walter’s extensive bag of veal tricks, escalopes aux champignons. Both were excellent. One complaint: the waiters. They’re competent enough, but just once, we’d like to catch one smiling. (5412 Camp Bowie. (817) 738-8091. Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sal till 10:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE. DC. $$$)

Rangoon Racquet Club. Even if this weren’t the best singles bar in town, a visit would be required to sample the hamburgers, which are large and packed with all the trimmings. Other luncheon items include ham hocks and lima beans. The atmosphere is dark and cozy in this nicely re-done old mansion, the service cheerful and quick. Singles begin arriving right after work, and the most popular drink seems to be an exceptionally good house Chablis. (4936Collinwood at Camp Bowie. (817) 737-5551.Mon-Sat11:30-9, bar till 2 am, closed Sun. Noreservations. MC, V, AE. $)

Willow Garden. The menu claims Chinese,Thai, and Mongolian dishes, and who’s to argue? To an American taste, the food is Oriental, good, and inexpensive. To begin withthere is an excellent Moo Goo Gai Pan (breastof chicken with vegetables and mushrooms), abenchmark for Chinese restaurants. The Mongolian Barbecue, chunks of beef and pork in avegetable sauce, and Hung Sui Har, eight jumbo shrimp with a mix of stallions, tomatoes,and ginger, are highlights from a lengthymenu. All is served in booths with beaded curtains. A good buy. (6712 Camp Bowie. (817)738-7211. Lunch: Mon-Sal 11:30-2; Dinner:daily 5-10, Fri & Sat till II, closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V, DC. $)