RESTAURANTS Dining Out

Handicappers. A dark-paneled, high-ceilinged bar in the Adolphus Hotel, decorated with gleaming brass fixtures and a collection of appropriate sporting prints. The best thing about Handicappers is its location. Those who complain about the lack of urban ambience in Dallas should drop by for a drink and watch the pigeons decorate the Mobil Building across the street. As for the menu, it consists of one dish – prime rib – complemented by potato salad, cole slaw, and, depending on the day, fresh strawberries, Black Forest cake, or some other standard sweet. All very good, reasonably priced ($6.50), and unfortunately, very boring. Odds are against Handicappers developing much of a following unless it adds a few more items to its menu. On both of our visits the dining room was virtually deserted, and most of those present were drinking rather than eating. This may be by design, of course, but it would be nice to have a good downtown restaurant where displaced urbanités could gather to reminisce about subways and muggings. As it is, we’ve a very classy new downtown bar. (Adolphus Hotel, 1321 Commerce. 747-6411. Lunch only: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. All credit cards.$$)

Sh-boom’s. Sh-boom’s (formerly the Health Nut) has enlarged the standard wheat-germ-and-sprouts menu to include what they call “gourmet natural foods.” As best we can tell, this means quiche, special soups, fresh fish, and more herbs and spices than one usually encounters in natural-food restaurants. In any case, Shboom’s is a very pleasant place, decorated in something called the Monterey motif and staffed by very cheerful, if sometimes very scatterbrained waiters. We were particularly impressed with the mushroom soup, delicately seasoned and thick with mushrooms, the Monterey-Jack-and-pumpkin-seed quiche, and the avocado-and-salmon salad. The broiled scrod, our catch of the day, was expertly prepared, and we made a mental note to try the fresh salmon steak after listening to the chorus of hallelujahs from the party sitting behind us. Right now the daily specials are more intriguing than the regular menu, which features the customary wholesome sandwiches (vegetarian Reuben, for example, and a tabouli-and-tahini-cheese concoction) and a selection of raw vegetable plates. We tried the tempura fried vegetables and found the batter unpleasantly thick and soggy. Our sauteed Chinese mushrooms were somewhat better, though at the moment Sh-boom’s isn’t doing too well by the Orient. Special teas and coffees and a good selection of beer and wine, including a surprisingly good Riesling from Washington state. Overall, an unusual restaurant that will probably get even better. Bar by membership. (4356 Lovers Lane at Armstrong Pkwy. 692-1411. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2:30; Dinner: 5:30-11, closed Sunday. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Crazy Crab. For months, we listed exactly one seafood restaurant. Recently, we added a second. So how nice it would be, we thought, if the Crazy Crab were as good as we’d heard. How nice if, in spite of its breathtakingly foolish sign, its pun-filled menu (anyone for Shrimply Delicious or Ahoy Polloi?), and its kitschy dockside decor, it served up decent seafood. Well, the Crazy Crab’s seafood is decent, or nearly so, but it’s certainly not great. Throughout, we had the feeling we’d stumbled on a new seafood chain that was shooting slightly above Red Lobster. The Southwestern Bell operator who gave us the restaurant’s telephone number may have defined the central problem with this place when she asked, “Ma’am, is that ’crazy’ with a C or a K?” We still don’t know. Having said all that, we should add that the Crazy Crab is doing good business from its gaudy building at Oak Lawn and Hall. At lunch, the place was noisy, in part because it has little in the way of sound-absorbing materials (even tablecloths have been abandoned for sheets of newspaper, so watch out for your shirtsleeves) and in part because people evidently like what they’re eating enough to come back. What they’re eating is mostly seafood “platters,” shrimp, oysters, crab, lobster, or fish filets served on plates that would hold a good-sized turkey, accompanied by bowls of parsley potatoes and green beans and a mound of “Seaweed,” Crazy Crab’s version of onion rings. We opened our lunch with oysters on the half shell, which were very good and a bargain at $2.50 for a half-dozen, and stone crab claws (they didn’t yield their meat readily but what we got was delicious). We tried the “Hook, Line, and Super,” a sampling of fried shrimp, oysters, scallops, and unspecified filet. (We think it was sole, but this is the sort of place where fish is just fish.) All but the shrimp were overdone and rather tough. We also ordered the “Old Salt’s Surprise,” a filet of sole cooked to near-mushiness. But there was one nice surprise: The onion rings that accompany every meal are delicious, cut thin and fried with a very light batter. Service provided cheerfully by what appear to be SMU sophomores on summer break. (3211 Oak Lawn at Hall. 522-5310. Lunch: Daily 11-2; Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11. No reservations. AE, V, MC, DC. $$)



RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas and Fort Worth dining. It is implicit that we recommend all of them highly.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They indicate only a general price range.

$ Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $12 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC/Master Charge, V/Visa, AE/American Express, DC/Diner’s Club, CB/Carte Blanche. “All credit cards” indicates that all five are accepted.



CONTINENTAL



Antares. An unrivaled view of the city as featured by an average restaurant, though if you choose carefully from the menu you can have your scenery and a decent meal, too. From the limited selection of entrees, the steaks seem to be the best (the tenderloin is the best value), though the appetizers are more intriguing: a good and bountiful salade Nicoise, marvelous onion soup, tasty fried escargots. If you don’t like these, you might as well move up one floor to the bar. (Reunion Tower at the Hyatt Regency Hotel. 741-3663. Lunch: 11-2; Dinner: 5-midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Arthur’s. The place to mix business with pleasure, which makes for a terrific bar with stiff drinks and some solid, well-prepared food. The chef shines at the grill with a good cut of meat: Filet, calf’s liver and onions, lamb chops, all are first-rate. The seafood dishes tend to be ordinary or overdone, so it pays to stick with the simple things. Service is generally excellent. (1000 Campbell Centre. 36J-8833. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun-Fri 6-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Bagatelle. One of the classiest dining rooms in town, with a solid wine list, sophisticated service, and a cozy bar. The sole Veronique and veal francaise, seasoned with herbs and wine, have been impressive on recent visits, as have the shrimp du chef appetizer and the escargots. Lunch at the companion Plaza Cafe is more chaotic than classy. Expect slow service and scrambled orders, though the food is good when it finally arrives – especially old standbys like the Plaza omelette and the quiche Lorraine. (One Energy Square, Greenville at University. 692-8224. Bagatelle: Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10, bar till 2 am. Plaza: Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. Bagatelle: $$$, Plaza: $$)

D Revisits The Brasserie. We recommended this restaurant as long as we felt it was a good place for a late-night meal. It is still the classiest place in town for a snack after 2 am (when Le Rendez-Vous closes), but neither quality nor price seems to justify even this distinction. Lunch is likely to be an expensive disaster, and dinner is pointless – you are only blocks away from some of the best restaurants in town. Why pay $14 for tiny, gristly lamb chops with watery broccoli on the side and equally absurd prices for aging smoked salmon, dry roast beef on stale buns, and salads made mostly of iceberg lettuce? In fact, we discovered one little secret: At lunch, the Pyramid Room is slightly cheaper (unfortunately, it isn’t much better – the same kitchen supplies both restaurants – so the choice is between the Pyramid’s gilded elegance and the Brasserie’s French Provincial frou-frou). As for after-hours dining, you’re better off picking up a Stouffer’s frozen lasagna at an all-night supermarket than paying premium prices for the Brasserie’s mediocre food. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard. 748-5454. 24 hours daily. No reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Chateaubriand. The perfect Fifties post-prom trip, complete with music, dancing, hat-check girl, and an army of tuxedoed waiters battling to light your cigarette. Nothing distinguished about the food, but considering the size of the menu the quality is surprisingly high. We’ve had good luck with the Greek fare (pastitsa and dolma appetizers, Greek veal) and the broiled lamb chops; less than good luck with the shrimp appetizer and most of the vegetable offerings. At lunch, the menu shrinks a bit, and quality and service drop a notch. Chateaubriand is what dining meant before there was a Greenville Avenue. (2515 McKinney. 741-1223. Mon-Sat 11:30 am-mid-night. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

The Chimney. A nice cozy place with a Swiss accent. The veal is excellent, and it takes many forms. The simplest, the lemon veal, may be the best, because it allows the meat to shine. The calf’s liver, thick and tender, is superb. Lunch is aimed at a matronly clientelle, but it recently featured a fiery chicken curry that hearty eaters would scarf up with pleasure. Desserts – sachertorte, Black Forest cake – are worth leaving half your entree uneaten for. Service is pleasant and efficient. (Willow Creek Ctr, 9739 N Cen Expwy at Walnut Hill. 369-6466. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10:30, Sun till 10; Sun brunch 11-2. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)



D Revisits The Pyramid Room. Has the Pyramid slipped? Or is it just that so many Dallas restaurants now serve comparable food at lower prices? Recent visits make us suspect it’s the former. Lunch was a disaster. Once it was of the same caliber as dinner – just simpler and cheaper. Now it obviously comes from the same pots that serve the Fairmont’s overpriced coffee shop, the Brasserie; we were served the same depressing, insipid broccoli hollandaise and the same dry, hard rolls in both restaurants recently. The Pyramid’s filet of red snapper turned out to be a dry, breaded, tasteless lump that wouldn’t pass muster at Long John Silver’s. The steak tartare, though it started with good ingredients, was mixed with too many condiments, so the fine sirloin faded under onions, pepper, capers, and an overdose of Worcestershire. Dinner a few days later was much better, but still not up to the Pyramid’s reputation. A few touchstones were well below par: The vichyssoise was creamy and well-blended, but much too salty. And the celebrated Grand Marnier soufflé arrived scorched on the top and underdone in the middle. To the waiter’s discredit, he not only served it anyway, but divided it into servings behind our backs. The rest of the meal was much better, including a stunning lobster bisque and a splendid filet bordelaise. It may be that we hit a couple of off-days. Or it may be that the Pyramid has gone the way of Old Warsaw: Stan Slawik’s restaurant was a training ground for chefs, waiters, and restaurant managers who left to start their own fine restaurants in the Sixties. The Pyramid has provided the same training for restaurant personnel in the Seventies; its alumni are all over town. Let’s hope it gets new stars – and new life – soon. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard. 748-5454. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-1:30; Dinner: daily 6-9:45. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)



Ewald’s. The emphasis here is on homey comforts and leisurely, classy service, and on these grounds alone Ewald’s beats out many restaurants serving more interesting food. Fortunately, Ewald’s food is good, with veal and beef dishes the specialties of the house. Stick with the proven favorites: pepper steak, loaded with grains of hot white pepper; tenderloin tips à la Ewald, tender chunks of steak with fresh mushroom slices, bell pepper, and pimiento. On the whole, a steady, relaxed restaurant that set its course years ago and has stuck with it. (5145 W Lovers Ln. 357-1622. Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat till 11, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V. $$$)

]

D Revisits Three Vikings. A warm, family-owned place serving altogether pleasing Swedish cooking. And what is Swedish cooking? That’s still an open question, since Three Vikings has no competition locally, but it’s given us the start of an answer with its hearty, well-seasoned soups, pungent sauces, and carefully prepared seafood and meat dishes. Sauces seem to be the key here, from the dill-based house salad dressing to the lovely, dark almond sauce on the roast duck. Chef Anders Edman has an experimental attitude in the kitchen (he’s currently trying out an onion soup made from several varieties of onions and a light veal stock – delicious) and the unusual menu will probably encourage you to adopt the same. For openers, we’ve never gone wrong with the shrimp chowder (though it’s sometimes spicy, sometimes bland – we vote for the spicy version) and the shrimp Erika appetizer. Or, if you’ve a big appetite, try the plate of smoked salmon with side dishes of capers, chopped red onion, lemon, and cream sauce, the only good version of this treat in town. If you think you hear a carpenter driving nails in the kitchen, take your cue: It’s Anders preparing Swedish steak, tenderloin pounded thin and cooked with onions and a rich, meaty sauce. That’s one of Three Vikings’ standards, as is the grilled salmon with dill sauce. The duck with almond sauce is a new entree destined for success – the kitchen thoughtfully breaks the joints for you, so you don’t have to grapple with a sticky carcass, and the meat is tender with the crisp, burnt edges that drive duck-lovers wild. Now to the weak point: the salads. The dill house dressing is wasted on tired iceberg and Bermuda onion, and the too-sweet cucumber salad has lost its crunch; they’d be better off serving the cukes sooner or trying a lower-octane marinade. The spinach salad, made with real bacon and slightly sweet dressing, is safer. Whatever your salad choice, though, down it with a few slices of bread – a Denton bakery approximates Swedish limpa for them, and its nutty, buttery flavor would perk up the sorriest salad. (2831 Greenville at Goodwin. 827-6770. Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-11; Sun brunch 11:30-3; closed Mon. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)



The Grape. Nothing chic here. Just pleasantly tacky decor and consistently good food. You can make a meal out of a plate of cheese (the best selection in town, served with fruit and fresh bread), soup or salad, and a carafe of wine, but the entrees won’t let you down. Recent standouts include chicken and artichokes cooked in Scotch, chateaubriand in perfect béarnaise, and a delicately prepared filet of sole. Still one of the most dependable restaurants in Dallas. (2808 Greenville at Goodwin. 823-0133. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-11, open later on Fri & Sat for wine and cheese. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

Jennivine. The notion of an English wine bistro is a bit odd, but Jennivine has to be con-:sidered more than a curiosity. Don’t get too attached to any one dish, though, since the menu changes daily, alternating between fresh fish (according to season), baked ham, prime rib, and others. One new addition is chicken Mirepoix (sautéed, with vegetables). Great sourdough bread. The wine list features good selections and a high mark-up. (3605 McKinney. 528-6010. Tue-Sat 11:30 am-11:30 pm, closed Sun & Mon. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Old Warsaw. Old Warsaw has the brandy-and-cigar motif down pat, as well as most of the dishes that fall under the general heading of Continental. In addition to the standard offerings, one finds a delightful brie soup, a superb artichoke-heart-and-sweetbreads appetizer in Madeira sauce, and a terrine de poisson that is both rich and light. As for the entrees, we’ve never tasted a better duck à l’orange or a more delicate poached salmon; the only letdown was the beef bourguignon, which was, well, beef bourguignon. The dessert soufflés are wonderful. Although no longer without competition, Old Warsaw hasn’t slipped, like some other old standbys. (2610 Maple. 528-0032. Tue-Sun 6-10:45, Sat till 11:45. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$$)

La Polonaise. You’ll find true elegance mixed with more than a few pretensions here, though the kitchen’s achievements tend to balance things out. La Polonaise’s mushrooms stuffed with crab are as good as we’ve tasted, as is the delicate cream of carrot soup, and the dessert soufflés waiting at the other end of the meal are exquisite. We visited on a busy night, and the quality of our entrees suggested a harried kitchen, but if you time your visit a little better, you’ll do just fine-the talent is obviously there. La Polonaise’s dining room is sophisticated and very pretty, and the management has excellent credentials. 2123 Highland Park Village. 522-6270. Mon-Sat 6-11. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$$)



DELICATESSENS

Kuby’s. Some purists gripe a bit – Kuby’s gives them lean corned beef when they’d prefer greasy, plain old rye or white when they’d like an onion roll. But over the years, most of us have adjusted and keep on turning up at Kuby’s for good thick soups, a succulent tartar sandwich, delicious hot potato salad and sauerkraut, first-class wurst, and pastries that have caused many patrons to take up jogging in penance. Always crowded at noon, but you can slip around to the take-out window for a brown bagger that will make you the envy of the office’s egg-salad set. (6001 Snider Plaza. 363-2231. Mon-Sat 8-6, sandwiches till 5:30. No reservations. MC for purchases over $15. $)

Wall’s. A cozy deli/restaurant that offers everything you can reasonably expect in these parts, including an extensive list of triple-decker sandwiches, generous servings of creamy chopped liver, and kreplach cooked exactly right, with just a glimmer of schmaltz on top. Some of the desserts are disappointing (chocolate pie with instant-pudding filling and a Graham-cracker-and-Nilla-wafer crust?) but most offerings are solid deli fare, served up cheerfully by some very busy waitresses. As a self-respecting deli must, Wall’s serves Dr. Brown’s cream soda. (10749 Preston Rd near Royal Ln. 691-4444. Daily 7am-7:30pm. Reservations. MC, V. $$)



FRENCH

Calluaud. We’ll miss the homey old place on Fairmount, but Guy and Martine Calluaud have brought a great deal of warmth to their new quarters on McKinney. The lunch menu is essentially the same – divine omelettes, soups, patés, and salads, marvelous filet of sole and steak Parisien. The one new addition is the excellent calf’s liver, done with onions and a touch of vinegar. The dinner menu now includes treats like pheasant and squab, though if you’re in the mood for exotic fowl, the best we’ve tasted is the quail in garlic-and-cognac sauce. Another new item, the filet mignon en croute in Madeira sauce, bears the Calluaud trademark of elegant simplicity. For dessert lovers, the legendary fruit tarts are still available, accompanied now by Fine soufflés. We know we’re raving, but Guy Calluaud is quite possibly the best chef in town. (2619 McKinney Ave. 823-5380. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-10:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

D Revisits La Cave. We’d heard rumors that La Cave had slipped a notch or two, and can now report, happily, that the rumors are unfounded. Although service is no snappier than ever – with more than a dozen patrons, things seem to unravel – and the kitchen has an occasional off night, La Cave remains a solid, dependable, altogether delightful place. Several items have recently been dropped from the menu, notably the ham sandwich and the shrimp salad, but as far as we can tell they’ve been replaced with winners, especially the paté de maison, among the best we’ve eaten. Our gazpacho and ratatouille were both outstanding, and we have no complaints about old standbys such as the salade Nicoise and the artichoke stuffed with shrimp and caviar. Finish up with a slice of almond torte and a pot of fresh coffee and you’ll leave content, even smug. Equally significant is the fact that, despite price gouging by French growers and shippers, La Cave still manages to offer a wide selection of excellent, reasonably priced wines. Some of the chateaux and districts may be unfamiliar, but we’ve yet to be burned by the proprietor’s suggestions. An ideal spot for a light meal. (2926 N Henderson. 826-2190. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, cheese plates and wine only 2-5:30; Dinner: Mon-Fri 5:30-11:30; Sat continuous food service noon-11:30. Retail wine sales Mon-Fri 10 am-midnight, Sat 10:30 am-midnight. MC, V, AE. $$)

Le France Co. A bustling little place with some of the flavor of a French cafe and some of the quality, too. Lunch is a small selection of soups, salads, omelettes, and sandwiches that vary in quality-the standout being the onion soup. Dinner is much better, featuring several well-prepared entrees, including recently an émince de capon à l’Indienne in a delightful light curry sauce. The crème caramel is a knockout for dessert. The wine list is short and over-priced. Cheery and casual, a good spot for a light meal. (The Quadrangle, 2800 Routh. 742-2276. Lunch: Tue-Sat 11-2:30; Dinner: Tue-Sat 6-10; closed Sun & Mon. MC, V, AE. $$)

Jean Claude. An exquisite restaurant, with care taken at every point of preparation and service. Chef Jean Claude Prevot prepares everything in his open kitchen; the menu is small but changes every night, and always offers an opportunity to try something new. Recent delights have included marvelous duck liver paté, shrimp appetizer prepared with walnuts and curry sauce (this would have been unspeakable almost anywhere else in town), veal tournedos with green peppercorns, and fresh Maine lobster in a light cream sauce. For dessert, try one of the perfect soufflés. It’s hard to think of anything bad to say about this place; the prices, while high, are nowhere near the highest in town, and when the food is this good, who cares? One of the city’s top three. (2520 Cedar Springs. 653-1823. Dinner: Tue-Sat 6:30-9:30. Reservations only. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Patry’s. Patry’s has aged better than many of the city’s old-line restaurants because it acknowledges its limitations: The kitchen has the textbook dishes down pat and doesn’t take many liberties. For openers, try the stuffed leeks or the vichyssoise, as good as any in town. The coq au vin is excellent, as is the escalope de veau with cream sauce. The only flop among the entrees was the Dover sole meunière: nice sauce, lousy fish. For dessert, there’s a Grand Marnier soufflé topped with apricot sauce. Rather chilly decor, but warm and polished service. Overall, a dependable if not adventurous restaurant. (2504 McKinney. 748-3754. Tue-Sun 6-11, Sat till 11:30, dosed Mon. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Mr. Peppe. Once one of the best restaurants in the city, though by today’s standards both decor and menu could use some new life. Mr. Peppe covers the old French standby s, from paté to chocolate mousse, and delivers competent versions in most cases – recent strong points were surprisingly good beef Wellington, nicely cooked fresh vegetables, and an excellent crème caramel. Mr. Peppe’s strongest suit, however, is its utterly charming waiters. (5617 W Lovers Ln. 352-5976. Mon-Sat 6-10, closed Sun. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Le Rendez-Vous. A charming French restaurant, brasserie-style: long hours, à la carte menu, first come First served. The lengthy menu covers all the bases, from salads and omelettes to seafood and steaks, but it pays to be adventurous. Try the subtle fish mousse, shrimp croquettes in tomato-based sauce Nan-tua, cucumber salad, filet of red snapper in pastry shell, or – a first locally – sautéed rabbit in a beautifully seasoned brown sauce. This is also the place to try prosciutto and melon – the prosciutto is the real thing – and the pepper steak, served with a boat of cream and pan drippings, is one of the best ever. Service is occasionally awkward, but we expect Le Rendez-Vous’ waiters to develop the esprit de corps that we associate with Alberto Lombardi’s other enterprises. (3237 McKinney at Hail. 745-1985. Mon-Sat 11:30-1 am, closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)

INDIAN

India House. The kitchen has undergone a rather stunning rejuvenation, raising hopes that Dallas will at last get a curry worthy of the name. Be prepared: the Vindaloo (hot) curries here are the genuine article. We were also impressed with the Saagwalla dishes (meat cooked in a spicy spinach purée) and the Bhunna (marinated meat, seafood, or vegetables sauteed in spices), with special praise going to the Iamb and the shrimp. If you’re not especially hungry, try the hors d’oeuvres platter and the unusual breads. (5422 E Mockingbird. 823-1000. Lunch: 11:30-2:30; Dinner: 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11. Reservations. MC, V. $$)

ITALIAN

lanni’s. If you revel in such tackiness as a vast arbor of plastic grapes and a Dmitri Vail portrait of Mickey Rooney, you’ll become a regular; if not, you’ll never come back. Being a regular means learning your way around the menu, which is mostly good but has some definite pitfalls. Winners include the antipasto plate, broiled shrimp and broiled sausage appetizers; the veal scallopine pizzaiola, eggplant parmigiana, and fettucini. Service is invariably warm and efficient. Not a restaurant that will win awards, but over the years it has definitely won some hearts. (2230 Greenville. 826-6161. Dinner: daily 5-11:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

D Revisits Campisi’s. Campisi’s would probably have the same crowd queued up every evening if it didn’t serve any food at all. That is not to say that the food is necessarily bad – the thin crust pizza is quite good, and the spaghetti is better than Stouffer’s – but that it’s beside the point. The point is that you’re going to Dallas’ original pizza parlor, Campisi’s Egyptian Restaurant, where it’s cool and dark and you sit in red leatherette booths and are served by some of the city’s finest pro waitresses. It’s a great place year round, but especially hospitable for lunch on a summer day, when it makes the heat, noise, and traffic outside seem like a bad dream. Try this for nostalgia: The cocktail list includes Shirley Temples and Roy Rogers. (5620 E Mockingbird. 827-0355. Mon-Fri 11 am-midnight, Sat till 1 am, Sun noon-midnight. Reservations for 6 or more. No credit cards; personal checks accepted. $$)

Lombardi’s. Servizio con brio. That’s one reason Lombardi’s has become one of the most enjoyable restaurants in town. Another is the food. The saltimbocca is right at the top, along with the veal limone and the zuppa de pesce, which is now served at lunch every Friday. And don’t pass up the mussels and langostinos when they’re available. The pasta dishes can be uneven, but with so many unusual choices, why be mundane? The more limited lunch menu includes roast veal and peppers, frittatas (an Italian omelette shaped like a pancake), and excellent spinach salad. (2815 McKinney. 823-6040. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat 5:30-11, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Mario’s. A mainline classy restaurant whose kitchen is capable of great things, even if its standard performance is less than consistently excellent. The seafood appetizers are good, especially the hot antipasto tray, and the lemon veal and lamb chops are well above average. For dessert, try the chocolate cheesecake, or order a Cognac and coffee – if that ritual ever makes perfect sense, it’s at Mario’s. The one-item dress code requires men to wear jackets. (135 Turtle Creek Village, Oak Lawn at Blackburn. 521-1135. Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Pietro’s. High spirits prevail here – on a good night, spontaneous toasts, crying babies, and a hearty Muzak rendition of “Santa Lucia” blend into one of the most pleasantly chaotic atmospheres in town. And the food is good – creamy tagliolini with salty ham slices, fresh lemon veal, tremendous crème caramel, and a nice wine list. The minestrone, spaghetti, and salads are ordinary, but it’s a big menu. Expect crowds on weekends. (5722 Richmond off Greenville. 824-9403. Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun & Mon. No reservations. MC, V. $$$)

II Sorrento. II Sorrento reopened recently after a serious kitchen fire, and on the face of things, nothing has changed: the same campy decor, pro waiters, strolling violinist and accordionist. The kitchen is even better than it was, however. We tried some old favorites and found them improved over our last visits – tournedos Rossini, as close as you come in this town to the real thing; saltimbocca with a light wine sauce laced with sage, excellent veal, and a thick bed of fresh spinach. The vegetables, soups, salads, and desserts were all good, but the wonderful entrees overshadowed them. Welcome back, II Sorrento. (8616 Turtle Creek, north of Northwest Hwy. 352-8759. Daily 5:30-11, Sat till midnight. Reservations except on Fri & Sat. All credit cards. $$$)



MAINLY FOR LUNCH



The Bronx. If you want to listen to the Pachelbel Canon and pretend you’re in San Francisco, the Bronx is a great escape. Always reliable for lunch or a light supper, and the dinner specials have become more promising lately; they include such varied plates as roast pork, burritos, lasagna, and red snapper. We’re partial to the regular menu, especially the omelettes and the magnificent chef’s salad. The Bronx chocolate mousse has become a legend in its time, but the peach and walnut pie is not far behind. Very casual, very solid. Beer and wine only. (3835 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn. 521-5821. Mon-Thur 11:30-2 am, Fri till 1:30, Sat 6-11:30, bar till 2, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V. $$)

Stoneleigh P. A made-over drugstore, with two very popular items on the menu – lentil soup and a cheeseburger on a dark rye bun with Provolone cheese. Other standouts include broiled boneless chicken and sausage sandwich. The Godiva chocolate pie is great for dessert. Check out the eclectic jukebox – everything from classical to country – and the marvelous magazine rack. (2926 Maple. 741-0824. Mon-Thur 11-midnight, Fri & Sat till 1:30 am, Sun 12-midnight; bar daily till 1 am, Fri & Sat till 2. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



MEXICAN



Casa Dominguez. Casa Dominguez was the first of Pete Dominguez’ chain of Tex-Mex enterprises, and is still by far the best. The tacos are still crisp, with perhaps the best-seasoned filling in town. Over the years, the menu has expanded into some specialties: an excellent came asada, fine tacos al carbon, a good chile relleno. In addition to the standard bowl of hot sauce, with your tostados you get a delightful pico de gallo-a spicy vegetable mixture with carefully seeded jalapenos. There are some weak spots: the cheese on the con queso items is gluey-apparently a pasteurized process cheese “extended” with flour-and the tasty guacamole comes in stingy portions. The other Dominguez restaurants are pleasant -especially the cheerful Los Vaqueros in Highland Park Village-but the food is best at Casa Dominguez. (2127 Cedar Springs. 742-4945. Tue-Thur 11-10, Fri 11-11, Sat 5-11, Sun 5-10. No reservations. AE, DC, MC, V. $)

Chiquita. Chiquita has been one of the city’s most popular restaurants for years, largely because Mario Leal is usually on the spot to see that things go right. Popularity means crowds – big crowds – though once the food arrives you probably won’t care. Stick to the specialties here, especially the pescado marinera and the grilled chicken breast with lemon-butter sauce. The standards – enchiladas, tacos, rice and beans – are fair to good, but avoid anything with ranchera sauce, a concoction that tastes like Campbell’s tomato soup. The appetizers and dishes made with Linares cheese, like the queso flameado, are wonderful. Bright, charming surroundings and attentive service. (3810 Congress, off Oak Lawn. 521-0721. Mon-Thur 11:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $)

El Taxco. This place made its reputation with generous, delicious, cheap Tex-Mex, though it’s no longer as consistent as it was. Stick to the standards – enchiladas, tacos, rice and beans – and you’ll probably find it satisfactory. But the more ambitious the item, the more unpredictable the results. Watch out for the chile relleno, a flaming capsule loaded with seeds, each a tiny dynamite charge; the cheese enchiladas, topped with a pleasant tomato and onion sauce, are a better bet. El Taxco now has a full bar, but the drinks are pretty bad – especially the bilious Kool-Aid margaritas, mostly syrup with a drop of tequila. (2126 N St Paul at McKinney. 742-0747. Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat till 10, closed Tues. No reservations. MC, V. $)

Herrera Cafe. Forget the Lemmon Avenue location and head straight for the Maple Avenue hole in the wall. You’ll probably stand in line, but the food has soul. All the standard Tex-Mex fare is good, especially the nachos, guacamole, and magnificent thick flour tortillas. Portions are large: Two people can stuff themselves for well under $10. No alcohol served, so bring your own. (3902 Maple. 526-9427. Mon, Wed, Thur 9-8, Fri-Sun till 10, closed Tue. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Javier’s. One of the most attractive dining rooms in town, and some of the most interesting food. It pays to be adventurous here – Javier’s eschews standard Tex-Mex in favor of steaks, seafood, and chicken dishes from Mexico, like shrimp broiled with lots of fresh garlic and chicken in the best mole sauce we’ve had. The thin flour tortillas wrapped around baked Linares cheese, green pepper, onion, and sausage make a wonderful appetizer. Save room for the crêpes topped with cajeta (caramel sauce) and flamed with Amaretto and brandy -they’re a knockout. (4912 Cole Ave. 521-4211. Sun-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat till 11:30, bar till 2 am. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Raphael’s. This standby lacks some of the pizzazz that once set it apart from Dallas’ other Mexican restaurants, but there’s still plenty to like here, from the cozy ranch-style decor to the attentive service and occasionally wonderful food. The queso flameado appetizer and the flautitas are excellent appetizers, and among the main dishes, we especially enjoyed the flounder Veracruzano and the came asada. You probably won’t enjoy the crowds, though; the dinner rush is being handled more efficiently than before, but there’s still a good chance of sitting on somebody’s enchiladas or having somebody sit on yours. (3701 McKinney. 521-9640. Mon-Fri 11:30-10:30, Sat noon-10:30, closed Sun. Reservations Mon-Thur only. MC, V, AE. $$)

ORIENTAL

Bo Bo China. Don’t let the plastic food on display in the entryway scare you, because good Mandarin cooking waits inside. The Peking duck, with its honey-crisped skin served as a separate course, is outstanding (a day’s notice is required on this order), as is the Mo Shu Pork, delicately seasoned and served with four paper-thin pancakes and plum sauce. (Two weaker entrees are the shrimp with lobster sauce and the Bo Bo Beef.) The appetizers are a real treat, especially the Pot Stickers – deep-fried meat ravioli. The service is attentive and friendly. There is one drawback: no liquor. (10630 Church Road at LBJ Freeway. 349-2411. Lunch: Daily 11-2:30, except Sun & Mon; Dinner: Tue-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat till 10, Sun till 9. Reservations. MC, V. $$)

China Coast. China Coast has all the charm of a Grange hall, but the food is good enough to distract you. The Hunan/Szechuan menu emphasizes seafood dishes, and these are certainly the stars, particularly the green jade scallops (with snow peas, broccoli, and water chestnuts), the four-flavor shrimp (actually one-flavor shrimp and three-flavor vegetable), and the crispy whole fish served with a delicate sweet-and-sour sauce. China Coast’s other dishes are less memorable, though the sliced chicken with orange peel and the paper chicken appetizer were delightful. Watch out for overseasoning in the Hunan lamb, eggplant with garlic sauce, and hot-and-sour soup – the last can give you laryngitis. The staff is efficient and eager to please, and for the most part, China Coast does precisely that. (2930 Northwest Hwy at Bachman Blvd. 350-6282. Mon-Thur 11:30 am-11 pm, Fri & Sat till midnight, Sun 12-11. Reservations. AE, MC, V. $$)

Fuji-Ya. Possibly the best Japanese restaurant in town, and certainly the most reasonably priced. You have to work to spend $10 and can usually eat like an emperor for considerably less. Start with the sashimi (raw fish), especially if it includes tuna or yellow-tail. The egg rolls, shaped like ravioli and deep-fried, are delicious, as is the suimono soup, a chicken broth with pieces of shrimp and chicken added. Among the entrees, only the Yosenabe (a vegetable and seafood stew) was below par: It tasted cooked out. The shrimp tempura and the sukiyaki are both excellent, but if you prefer something less ordinary try the yakisoba (a pan-fried noodle with beef and vegetables) or the Tohkatsu (pork cutlet in special sauces). For dessert there’s only sherbet and a Japanese bean cake, which our waitress said Americans don’t like. She was right. Fuji-Ya has also begun preparing sushi on Thursdays. Lunch is limited to a few teriyaki dishes and a daily special. Ours was a delicious chicken cutlet tempura. Club memberships required for alcohol. (13050 Coit Road. 690-8396. Tues-Sun 11-10: lunch 11-2. Closed Monday. Reservations. MC, V. $$)

Hunan. Where the Szechuan boom began, and still some of the best in town. A current favorite is the San Shien soup (pork, shrimp, chicken), and the abalone with chicken is a strong second place. Everything except champagne chicken and crab velvet-bad ideas to start with-seems to be top-notch. On its way to becoming a Dallas institution. (5214 Greenville at Lovers Ln. 369-4578. Mon-Thur 11:30-11, Fri & Sat till midnight, Sun till 11. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Mihama Ya. A slightly screwy place with good, inexpensive Japanese food. This time we tried the gyoza (egg rolls, something like Chinese potstickers) and kara age (marinated fried chicken) appetizers, both excellent. The tempura plate was bountiful and nicely prepared, though the evening’s excitement was provided by Chirashi Donburi, a collection of raw tuna, shrimp, and squid on sushi rice, served in a lovely lacquered box. Each entree comes with soup and a salad whose principal value is for chopstick practice. Lunch is a bargain at three dollars for entree, soup, salad, and rice, though the fare is limited to America’s favorites. Ambience provided by Japanese top-forty music. (7713 In wood Rd. 351-9491. Lunch: Tue-Thur 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Tue-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11, Sun 1-10. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Royal Tokyo. Over the years, Royal Tokyo’s food has suffered from its emphasis on production values (fish pond, dancing waitresses, cleaver-wielding chefs in the Hibachi Room), though our last visits held some pleasant surprises. The deluxe sushi dinner, a plate of raw tuna, shrimp, octopus, squid, and lobster roe on rice cakes, (each with a pellet of hot green mustard inside) was good-looking and as fresh as it obviously has to be; the shabu-shabu (a sort of meat and vegetable fondue) continues to please. Lunch featured a wonderful soup, with a thick cloud of pulverized soy suspended in tasty chicken broth. The suonomo (sliced cucumber) salad and scallops kushi were both fine, though the standard entrees – tempura, gyoza, teriyaki – could use some work. (7525 Greenville Ave. 368-3304. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat till 11:30, Sun till 10. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)



D Revisits South China. A dependable alternative if you’re burned out – double meaning intended – on Szechuan restaurants with copy-cat menus. Although South China isn’t on anyone’s list of the city’s top ten, it handles standard Chinese fare – sweet and sour dishes, moo shi pork, etc. – with finesse. Appetizers are its weakest point – ours were overcooked and generally dull. But the beef with oyster sauce was excellent and the shrimp curry deceptively subtle, with each mouthful hotter than the last. The place is tucked away in that curious restaurant shopping center across from the Dr Pepper plant on Mockingbird, and it’s rather drab. But drabness suggests a restaurant that’s settled in for a long stay and doesn’t plan to move or change. In a city where restaurants appear and disappear like Brigadoon, that’s reassuring. (5424 E Mockingbird. 826-5420. Lunch: daily 11:30-2:30, Sat & Sun noon-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thurs 11:30-11, Fri & Sat till midnight. Reservations on weekends. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)



Szechuan. A dependable neighborhood restaurant with the menu shared by most of the town’s Szechuan-style restaurants. A few of the “Chef’s Specialties” really are special: Try the house chicken with scallions, celery, and green peppers. One of this restaurant’s virtues is a dependable take-out service. The moo-shi pork is an old take-out favorite that is sometimes sensational. Very friendly, ever-smiling staff. (4117 Lemmon near Douglas. 521-6981. Sun-Thurs 11:30-11, Fri & Sat till 12. Reservations on weekends. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)



SEAFOOD

Fausto’s. A chic, comfortable grotto off the lobby of the Hyatt Regency Hotel, with varied seafood dishes ranging from the simple to the excessively complex. We ate well as long as we stayed with the plainer fare-raw oysters, broiled Gulf trout, gumbo, and red snapper Provencale were all good. So was the imposing Crab Louis, a huge platter of excellent crab-meat, lettuce, grapes, tomatoes, and fresh pineapple that is probably the perfect uptown lunch. More complicated fare didn’t hold up as well, and is probably irrelevant to basic seafood lovers anyway. The steaks are fine. Fausto’s offers fresh lobster, but they only come in on Fridays and Saturdays, so reserve your table early. (Hyatt Regency Hotel. 651-1234. Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2; Dinner: daily 6-11:30. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

D Revisits S&D Oyster Company. The S&D menu is limited to what they can get fresh and serve right, and our latest visit was rewarding as always. The gumbo is thick with shrimp and light on okra, and offers up an occasional oyster. Oysters on the half shell are perfectly fresh and plump, in fact a little too plump for some – if you’re uneasy about swallowing a live mollusk, specify small ones. The shrimp loaf is an excellent though unwieldy sandwich – fried shrimp, tartar sauce, and ketchup on buttery French bread. Of the broiled fish, the Gulf trout and snapper are most flavorful, though the blandness of the flounder is offset by your waiter’s performance filleting it tableside. The waiters continue to be one of the main attractions – some gruff, some courtly, all dedicated. And now there are a couple of very efficient waitresses, who seem to be holding their own quite well. Stay away from the desserts. The lemon meringue pie is so sweet it’ll make your sinuses hurt. There’s a line outside every evening, but the noise and bustle inside keep turnover high – and the profit margin fat. (2701 McKinney. 823-6350. Mon-Thur 11 am-10 pm, Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

SOUTHERN SPECIALTIES

Broussard’s. In a new location, it still has a raucous boarding house atmosphere and superb oysters, fresh or fried; sweet catfish; outstanding piquante and gumbo; and the best crawfish this side of Baton Rouge. The only weak spots are tough and tasteless frog legs and the jambalaya, which frequently suffers from over-exposure to the infra-red lamps. Bring your own liquor. (707 N Belt Line Rd, Irving, 1 mile S of Rte 183. 255-8024. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10. Closed Sun. No credit cards. No reservations. $$)

Celebration. No one in town has successfully duplicated Celebration’s winning formula: five entrees, salad, and fresh vegetables served in big bowls (“family-style”), at an all-you-can-eat rate, dessert extra. Period. It works so well they don’t take reservations; people still line up on the front porch for half an hour. We’ve always touted the pot roast, but the broiled trout, baked chicken, and meat loaf add up the same: plain and enjoyable. Yes, you still get those little biscuits and yes, they’re still delicious. (4503 W Lovers Ln. 351-5681. Mon-Thur 8:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11, Sun 5-10. No reservations. MC, V. $)

Pittman House. This place boasts a classy kind of home cooking, food like mother would have made if she’d been really good at it. And sometimes (especially at dinner) it delivers. But things have slipped lately. At lunch the terrific avocado-crabmeat-and-bacon sandwich has turned into a mayonaise-laden mess with a few filaments of crab, and the little complimentary rolls seem to be smaller and more warmed-over. At dinner, we had good shrimp remoulade and quail, but nothing else was up to snuff. The pound cake and ice cream ball were still good, though. It’s time to rethink your menu, Pittmans. Simplify, simplify. (2911 Routh. 745-1149. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Sat & Sun 12-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thurs 6-10, Fri & Sat 6-10:30. Reservations evenings only. MC, V, AE. $$$)



D Revisits Sonny Bryan’s. Yes, they really do cook 800 pounds of meat a day, and it’s usually gone before they close at six o’clock. Sonny Bryan’s is a Dallas institution with great barbecue, onion rings, and cole slaw. The best time to go is Friday lunch, when the place is absolutely packed – while you wait, you can guess the age of the soot on the walls and watch other patrons try to ease into rickety little school desks while balancing plates of ribs and beans. Great fun. Beer only. (2202 In-wood. 357-7120. Mon-Fri 8-6 or until the meat’s all gone; Sat 11-3, Sun 11-2. No reservations. No credit cards. $)



Red Moon Cafe. Creole specialties are the heart of the menu, and the Red Moon’s versions are good (if occasionally unorthodox). But don’t stop there: The liver and onions, omelettes, salads, and vegetables are terrific, as are the homemade desserts (especially the buttermilk-pecan pie). Early risers should check out the breakfast menu, with eggs, grits, biscuits, and some of the best coffee in town. Already a neighborhood resource; with more polish in the service and a cheerier decor, the Red Moon could be a real contender. (4537 Cole at Knox. 526-5391. Breakfast and lunch: Mon-Sat 7:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till 11; Sun Brunch: 10-2. No reservations. MC, V. $$)



STEAKS, BURGERS, ETC.

Chili’s. Not ambitious, but expert. The Old Timer (mustard, lettuce, tomato, etc.) and the Terlingua Pride (everything in the kitchen plus chili) are the best of the burgers, the soft tacos the best of the other items. You’ve probably tasted better chili, but never, never better French fries. Pleasantly casual atmosphere and quick and friendly service once you get inside. There’s usually a long waiting line. (7567 Greenville at Meadow. 361-4371. Daily 11 am-2 am. No reservations. MC, V. $)

Cork ’n’ Cleaver. Despite the cute name and the fact that this is a chain restaurant, the prime rib is excellent – and you can have seconds of it at no extra charge. The steaks are equally good, and the salad bar is varied: spinach, mushrooms, cottage cheese, cauliflower, sprouts, grated cheese, and assorted other goodies-a lunchtime meal in itself for $3.25. The only annoyance is a phony Colorado motif, especially in the bar. The current leader in the steak-and-salad-bar sweepstakes. (8080 N Central Expwy at Caruth Haven. 361-8808. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri till 12,Sat till 12, Sun till 10. Reservations Sun – Thurs only. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Houlihan’s. Unlike some of its Greenville Avenue neighbors, Houlihan’s takes itself seriously as a restaurant. For starters, have the fried zucchini strips or the boiled spiced shrimp with red sauce. Try the gazpacho, which is available with gin and vermouth as a sort of Spanish martini. You’ll fare best among the burgers and omelettes and steaks, but the roast duck with orange sauce is surprisingly good. Desserts look tempting but are mediocre. Since you’ll probably have to wait in the bar, it’s nice that the drinks are excellent. (4 NorthPark East at Park Lane and Central. 361-9426. Sun-Thurs 11-11. Fri & Sat till 1 am. No reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Kirby’s. Step inside and you’re back in the Fifties, when dining out meant sitting in a very dark place and eating a huge piece of meat. It’s still great. Kirby’s steaks are tender, among the best in town, and priced to compete with the chains’. You might want to order rarer than usual, though – our steaks were left on the fire a bit too long. Kirby’s offers all the salad you can eat (though it’s just iceberg and cherry tomatoes) and fine baked potatoes topped with everything. (3715 Greenville. 823-7296. Tues-Sun 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till midnight. Reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Strictly Ta-Bu. The decor is Forties seedy, overpoweringly seedy in the daylight. But the food is a pleasant surprise. The pizza is excellent (though small for the price), a crispy-crust version with plenty of cheese and fresh toppings. The burgers are good, as are the Italian entrees listed on the blackboard. Ta-Bu also offers a dining adventure: the Ta-Bu special, a sandwich with ham, turkey, bacon, and a mouthful of Thousand Island dressing-a lapful if you bite incautiously. There’s live jazz most evenings and a great jukebox the rest of the time. (4111 Lomo Alto. 526-9325. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-3; Dinner: Sun-Thurs 5-12, Fri & Sat 6-1. No reservations. MC, V. $$)

T.G.I. Friday’s. Dozens of burgers; enormous portions of beef, chicken, and shrimp; thick, gooey desserts – Friday’s menu rolls on and on. We’re especially fond of the pocket sandwiches, steak Fingers, and crabmeat-and-arti-choke omelette. For appetizers, try the baked brie or the zucchini slices, and for a treat, a side order of fried potato skins. Always mobbed with singles, but there are compensations – Mexican pizza, for instance, and those fried artichoke hearts. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville. 363-5353. Daily 11:30 am-2 am; Sun Brunch 11-2. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)



FORT WORTH RESTAURANTS

Angelo’s. An old, shacky building in an industrial complex, with regulars sipping Coors from tub-sized goblets, and Willie wailing out of the juke box. Hard to believe it’s anything special, but there are those who claim Angelo’s serves Texas’ finest barbecue. We can’t disagree. The brisket is fork-tender, perfectly cooked, and topped with excellent sauce. The ribs are even better, and the hot links a spicy addendum to the combination plate. Prices are high and servings enormous. Angelo’s has doubled its seating area in the last year, but a wait is inevitable. Still in place are the moldy moose head and the enormous stuffed bear wearing T-shirt and cap. (2533 White Settlement Road. (817) 332-0357. Mon-Sat 11-10. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

The Balcony. It will never be mistaken for a great restaurant, but it’s a pretty good one, and the place for Ridglea society matrons to meet for lunch. The trout amandine was too dry on a recent visit, and the beef Oriental is probably called beef stronganoff in other restaurants, but there was a very good vegetable soup. The service is brisk, competent, and friendly, and the house white wine excellent. (6100 Camp Bowie. (817) 731-3719. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 10:30, closed Sun. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Carriage House. You’ll need a reservation here; there’s hardly a lull in the throngs of people, no place to wait, and limited parking. All of which suggests that the Carriage House’s reputation for excellence continues to be deserved. The menu is lopsided toward beef (this place knows its customers), but offers more adventurous dishes as well-we tried the pepper steak and the veal Milanese, both of which were done to perfection. The salads were crisp and cold, and topped with the house’s tasty avocado dressing. Service, however, is very slow. (5136 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2873. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: daily 6-11, Sun 6-10; Sun Brunch: 11-3. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$$)

Cattlemen’s. Funny, it doesn’t look like a shrine. But it is – a momument to the Great Beef God. Cattlemen’s is a world-class steak restaurant settled in the pseudo-western facade of the Fort Worth Stockyards. We took a Northern friend, a confirmed escargot gourmet, for lunch; he tackled the 18-ounce Texas strip sirloin and was born again. We ate lightly, choosing the Arkansas Traveler special, roast beef on open cornbread with brown gravy and black-eyed peas. The medium T-bone, the ribeye. . . each was perfect, fork-tender and juicy. Stick to the steaks here – otherwise there’s no point. 2458 N Cattlemen’s. (817) 624-3945. Mon-Fri 11-10:30, Sat 4:30-10:30, closed Sun. Reservations. All credit cards. $$$)

Edelweiss German Restaurant. The attraction here isn’t the food – it’s the Gemutlich-keit, the infectious good humor that fills this huge West Side beerhall. Bernd Schnerzinger, with a voice big enough to be heard from the mountaintops, sings nightly with an oom-pah band; singalongs and dancing are encouraged. Service is better than good, and so is the food, as authentically German as one finds in Texas. Although the schnitzel sometimes resembles thinly battered chicken-fried steak, the sausages, sauerkraut, cabbage, and potato pancakes are tasty, and the Black Forest cake excellent. (3801-A Southwest Blvd. (817) 738-5934. Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10:30. Reservations. MC, V, DC. $$)

Endicott’s Ore House. Despite its name, this massive replica of a Colorado gold mine makes its way as a middle-of-the-road family place. We tried the nachos, perhaps the best in town-a huge plate of tostadas overflowing with meat, beans, cheese, and jalapeno peppers. The onion rings have virtually no taste, but the Mexican burger (with chili and cheese) was delicious. From there, we moved to the “steak on a pick and shrimp,” an odd shishkebob; the meat was excellent but the shrimp undercooked. Good crisp salads and sweet Italian house dressing. The waiters have stopped introducing themselves to each table, but they continue to rush patrons through the meal. Our time: 40 minutes from sit-down to tip. (7101 Calmont. (817) 732-8031. Lunch: daily 11-2; Dinner: daily 4:30-11:30. No reservations. All credit cards. $$)

Hedary’s. The food is pure Lebanese, prepared and served by Hedary, his wife, and seven of their nine children. The result is a long roster of exotic dishes served in a mildly erratic fashion. We’ve tried the Hummus Bit-Tahini, a salad of garbanzo beans, pine nuts, spices, and ground beef – the combination was fresh and delicious – and the Frarej entree, baked chicken and vegetables basted with olive oil and lemon juice. Finish up with Arabian coffee, brewed bitter and black for sad occasions and sweet for good times. Ours was sweet. (3308 Fairfield in Ridglea Center. (817) 731-6961. Sun-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-midnight. No reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$)

Joe T. G arcia’s. Garcia’s is Fort Worth’s favorite Mexican restaurant. The food is southern Mexico-style, less spicy than Tex-Mex, and the menu is limited, a set meal at a set price. But most people don’t care – they come mainly for the atmosphere. You can eat in the old house or alfresco beside the pool. The service is often slow, crowds overflow, it’s noisy, confused, and very friendly. (2201 N. Commerce. (817) 626-4356. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Sun 5-10:30. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

Kincaid’s. The best hamburgers in Texas, maybe the world. Kincaid’s is a gourmet burger joint cleverly disguised as a neighborhood grocery store. The burgers come from behind the meat counter and they are huge, juicy, and freshly made, with meat patties the size of small sofa pillows. Kincaid’s has Texas deli items, too, for takeout – the chicken-fried steak, cornbread, and barbecue are excellent. The crowds are huge: You wait for your order, and eat standing up. But no one cares. (4901 Camp Bowie. (817) 732-2881. Mon-Sat 10-6:15. No reservations. No credit cards. $)

London House. An old-line favorite for steak-lovers, London House has the basics down pat – salad, beef, and potato. The decor is ersatz-Tudor English, but a less obvious forgery than those beef-and-ale chain operations. The steaks come in rather large sizes for the price. If there is a criticism, it could be that the lettuce is not always as fresh as it should be on the heavily stocked salad bar. (4475 Camp Bowie Blvd. (817) 731-4141. Dinner: Mon-Thurs 5:30-11, Fri-Sat till midnight, Sun till 10:30.Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Massey’s. More properly known as Herb Massey’s Dinner Place, this red-leatherette-booth cafe is always crowded. The reason is chicken-fried steak – the very best, served with salad, French fries, cream gravy and homemade biscuits. (Massey’s menu ranges from Mexican to seafood, but chicken-fried steak is the pièce de résistance.) Service is fast and folksy. (1805 Eighth Ave. (817) 924-8242. Daily: 6:30 am-10:30 pm. No reservations. MC, V. $)

Merrimac. This restaurant/disco sprang to life beside the Trinity River and instantly became a crowded weekend favorite. The food is nothing spectacular (although the Alaskan king crab legs are delicious and well-prepared) and service could be better, so it must be the ambiance, which is cozy and somewhat romantic. The disco is upstairs and evening diners are shielded from the music, but you may be happier with everything at lunch when the Mer-rimac is less frenetic. Without reservations on Friday and Saturday evenings, expect an hour’s wait. (1541 Merrimac Circle off University Dr. (817) 332-9306. Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11; Fri-Sat 6-midnight; Sun Brunch 11:30-230. Reservations. MC, V, AE. $$)

Old Swiss House. An oasis in Fort Worth’s heavy beef desert, thanks to Walter Kauf-mann, the only local chef who can be trusted with sauces more complicated than red-eye gravy. He’s deft in the opening courses-a light touch of garlic in the escargots (not on the menu, though he occasionally prepares them as a specialty), and excellent salads, although we would prefer a choice of dressings. Then the entrees: goulash with mushrooms swathed in burgundy sauce, and from Walter’s extensive bag of veal tricks, escalopes aux champignons. Both were excellent. One complaint: the waiters. They’re competent enough, but just once, we’d like to catch one smiling. (5412 Camp Bowie. (817) 738-8091. Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till 10:30. Reservations. MC, V, AE, DC. $$$)

Rangoon Racquet Club. Even if this weren’t the best singles bar in town, a visit would be required to sample the hamburgers, which are large and packed with all the trimmings. Other luncheon items include ham hocks and lima beans. The atmosphere is dark and cozy in this nicely re-done old mansion, the service cheerful and quick. Singles begin arriving right after work, and the most popular drink seems to be an exceptionally good house Chablis. (4936 Coll in wood at Camp Bowie. (817) 737-5551. Mon-Sat 11:30-9, bar till 2 am, closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V, AE. $)

Willow Garden. The menu claims Chinese, Thai, and Mongolian dishes, and who’s to argue? To an American taste, the food is Oriental, good, and inexpensive. To begin with,there is an excellent Moo Goo Gai Pan (breast of chicken with vegetables and mushrooms), a benchmark for Chinese restaurants. The Mongolian Barbecue, chunks of beef and pork in a vegetable sauce, and Hung Sui Har, eight jumbo shrimp with a mix of scallions, tomatoes, and ginger, are highlights from a lengthy menu. All is served in booths with beaded curtains. A good buy. (6712 Camp Bowie. (817) 738-7211. Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner: daily 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun. No reservations. MC, V, DC.$)