REFRESHER COURSE

How to bring the real you out of hiding.

’”Make-up shouldn’t wear the person, the person should wear the make-up. Its purpose is to make a woman look refreshed and pretty, not overdone and grotesque.” That’s the philosophy of Betty Myers, make-up stylist for Lou Lattimore. Following her own advice, Betty has applied make-up on our model for a natural, daytime look. Here are her comments as well as step-by-step instructions for achieving a natural look yourself.

Step 1. Cleansing. Before applying make-up, be sure your face is absolutely clean. “Make-up will look only as good as the skin beneath it.” says Betty. “Good skin care is absolutely essential.” (More on skin care later.)

Step 2. Moisturizing. Always use a good moisturizer under your foundation. This also applies to women with oily skin. Betty explains, ’”A good moisturizer conditions your skin. It doesn’t make it more oily.”” When applying moisturizer or any other skin treatment product, gently rub the liquid or cream on your face with your fingertips using an upward motion. This method allows the creams to penetrate the pores.

Step 3. Foundation. Apply foundation with an equally gentle motion. Use your fingertips, preferably the second and third fingers, for the lightest touch. Foundation and other “glamour” make-up should be applied with a downward motion so that it will blend with your facial hair, which also grows down. Apply foundation all over your face, including the mouth and eyelids. A foundation base makes lip color and eye make-up last longer. Do not put foundation on your neck. It only rubs off on your clothes. Says Betty, “Your foundation should match your natural skin color so that there isn’t a color line on your chin and jaw.”

Step 4. Shadow screen. “Most people’s eyes puff same principles artists apply in drawing. By shadowing, you make certain features less important. By highlighting, you make features more prominent. The simplest type of contouring can be achieved with shading rouge. It should be placed under the cheekbone and extended to the hairline to make the cheekbones more prominent. Blend the rouge with your foundation so it looks natural.

Step 7. Setting the make-up. Lightly moisten a sponge or cotton pad and gently pat the skin with the sponge or pad to directly under the lower lid and then the skin sinks in above the cheek bone,” Betty explains. This area requires special highlighting. Betty uses a peach or putty-colored cream, depending on the skin type, directly under the lid. Peach works best for light-colored skin, putty for darker skin types. Then she adds a pale green cream below that, gently blending the shades together.

Step 5. Powder. Betty prefers to use powder over foundation. “I think it helps to set the make-up and gives a woman a more finished, matte look.” Use a loose, translucent powder. Apply it rather heavily with a cotton ball, then with the edge of the cotton ball remove the excess using a downward motion.

Step 6. Contouring. This technique takes practice and training. Betty explains, “Most women have difficulty seeing their faces objectively. Contouring requires objectivity. It’s one of the most important things a professional can teach you about applying make-up.” Generally speaking, contouring uses the set the powder and foundation. Once this is done, you can apply lip, eye or cheek color in any sequence you wish.

Step 8. Eyes. If you don’t wear false eyelashes, several coats of mascara are necessary for a finished look. Betty applies one coat of mascara, then works on eye shadow or lip color while the first coat dries, adding more coats in the same manner. Apply mascara on both sides of the upper and lower lashes to make them look thicker. When choosing eye shadows, Betty cautions, “Don’t try to match the color of your eye. It just fights with your natural eye color. Instead, try to complement it. And above all, don’t get in a rut.” The color of your clothes and the kind of light you’re in should be taken into consideration. Apply a dark shade of eye shadow to the crease of the’eye with a Q-tip or brush, extending the shadow to the brow bone. This procedure makes that part of the eye recede, pulling the lid out to give it prominence. Apply a lighter shade of shadow to the lid, then using the Q-tip, blend the colors together so there isn’t a definite color line between them. Line the inside of the lower eyelid with blue eyeliner. It makes the whites of your eyes seem even whiter.

Step 9. If you want daytime cheek color, apply rouge high on the cheek bone and into the temple, then blend it into your foundation.

Step 10. Lips. Use a lip brush to apply lip color. It gives you a better line and your lipstick stays on longer. Then use a lip pencil to outline. This keeps the color from bleeding. Apply lip gloss, but only in the center of the mouth. If put on the edges of the mouth, lip gloss also has a tendency to bleed.

As a finishing touch, add a bit of rouge to your chin and forehead for color highlights.

This is a daytime look, but the same procedure works for applying evening make-up. The only difference is that at night, you do more of the same – more shading, more dramatic color.

” European women have a much better understanding of the importance of good skin care. We’re just learning,” says Betty. The skin is one of the most obvious indicators of good or poor health. Betty has this basic advice on good skin care: “Stay out of the sun. A tan isn’t worth the damage it does to your skin. Get the proper amount of sleep and watch your diet. Use a good night cream, and if you’re older, an eye and throat cream as well. Always remove your make-up before you go to bed to allow your skin to breathe and heal blemishes. And most important, have the right attitude about life. That’s what keeps you young.”

Make-up: A Design for Your Face



A make-up stylist is an artist. He can look at your face objectively, assessing its strong and weak points. He can apply make-up in such a way that your best features are emphasized and your weak features are played down. But no two make-up stylists will “design” your face the same way, just as no two artists will paint your portrait the same way. Each style may be attractive but you will probably prefer one approach over the other.

The stylists listed below will be glad to show you samples of their work and explain their unique approaches to make-up. Some are also licensed skin care specialists who can advise you on cosmetics and a good maintenance program that will keep your skin healthy.

Gigi Coker

Marie Leavell Beauty Salon

147 Inwood Village

357-6441

$30 per consultation

Appointments Saturday only from 9 to 4.



Richard Florio

Je Ne Sais Quoi

3225 Lemmon at Turtle Creek

528-4090

$25 first visit, $15 each successive visit

Appointments Tuesday-Saturday 8:30 to

5:30; Thursdays “til 7.



Phyllis Estes Goff

6211 W. Northwest Hwy. Suite 260

368-8930

$35 per consultation

Appointments Monday-Friday at 10,

11 or 12.



J. Martin

L’Image

3128 Harvard

522-6230

$30 per consultation

Appointments Tuesday-Saturday 9 to 4,

Thursdays “til 7.



Betty Myers

Lou Lattimore

4320 Lovers Lane

369-8585

$35 per consultation

Appointments Tuesday-Saturday

9:30 to 5:30.



Susan Posnick

826-9459

$35 per consultation Appointments Monday-Friday from

9:30 to 5.

Susan will also come to your home if that’s more convenient.



Kay Ochsenbein Reeder

3525 Cedar Springs

522-0890

$35 per consultation Appointments Tuesday-Saturday from

10 to 6.



Louis Stamm

268-5037/528-7435

$25 per consultation

Louis will be out of town until April 30. He does not have regular office hours. Call him at one of the numbers listed above to arrange the best time for an appointment.

Do’s and Dont’s From the Experts



Do use cosmetic sponges and brushes when applying make-up to keep from tearing the skin tissue.



Don’t use make-up with a fragrance if you’re susceptible to skin allergies. The alcohol or formaldehyde in the fragrance can cause an allergic reaction.



Do get plenty of sleep. Lack of sleep slows down the blood circulation. Blood feeds the skin properly and helps prevent clogged pores.



Don’t use abrasive pads or harsh granu-laE soaps to cleanse your skin. They might break the skin’s surface capillaries.



Do buy make-up with a sun screen. Look for any product that contains PABA, the ingredient that blocks out ultra-violet rays.



Do use a throat cream. The throat has only five layers of skin and no oil ducts. This area, and the area around the eyes. are the first to wrinkle and sag.

J. Martin



Do be aware that there is no one right way to apply make-up.



Don’t always think you have to fight a facial characteristic that you believe to be a weakness. Turn it into an asset.



Do look at your make-up from a distance as well as up close. Make-up should be applied for a total effect as well as to bring out individual features.



Unless you have very dry skin, do go without make-up whenever possible. Give your skin a chance to breathe.

Kay Ochsenbein Reeder



Do change your make-up base color at least twice a year. Your skin color changes when exposed to summer sun.



Do “’overmake” initially and let your skin drink in the color. Let it stand for five minutes, then take off the excess make-up with a cotton pad. Apply powder and what’s left will stay on all day.



Do use a powder blusher rather than a cream blusher if you have oily skin.



Don’t use a water-base foundation unless you have oily skin.



Don’t let your eyeliner show. If it shows, you have too much on.

Phyllis Estes Goff



Don’t wear frosted eye shadows. They look overdone and harsh.



Thicker eyebrows are in. but don’t pencil them too heavily. A brush-on brow line is softer.

Do follow the natural line of your lips when applying lip color. Unless you really know what you’re doing, an unnatural line looks – unnatural.

Richard Florio



Streetwear make-up is different from high-fashion make-up. Don’t overdram-atize by trying to copy make-up you see on fashion models in magazines.



Do pay proper attention to blending your make-up. Otherwise, the look is harsh and color areas are too distinctly defined.



Don’t do a lot of contouring for street make-up. Contouring is a craft that is hard to do properly without training.

Louis Stamm



Do experiment with various make-ups and make-up techniques to find the ones that are right for you.



Do get professional advice from a makeup artist.



Don’t overdo. It’s better to have someone say you look good than, “Your makeup looks good.”



Don’t use white under-eye shadow. Thecontrast is too harsh. Gigi Coker

Do Your Face a Favor

Getting a facial is one of the nicest things you can do for your face. Erica Miller, of Renee’s Cosmetology Center, explains, “The most important reason for a woman to get a facial is to get her skin thoroughly cleaned and be put on a maintenance program, especially if she has a long history of skin neglect.” No one is allowed to give facials without a state license.

A complete facial takes at least one hour and should include the following steps:



1. Skin analysis. Using a high intensity lamp with a microscopic lens, the aes-thetician will evaluate your skin type,looking for dry and oily areas, large poresand skin damage.



2. Cleansing. This is the most important part of the process. It includes steaming your skin with ozone steam to openpores and “vacuuming” pores with asuction tube.



3. Peels. A peel removes dead skin layers, blackheads and other impurities.Peels should not be abrasive and shouldnot contain harsh chemicals. The kind ofpeel used depends on skin type and thefrequency of facials.



4. Massage. This is what clients likemost about getting a facial. A good aes-thetician should have a gentle touch.Massaging tones up the facial musclesand improves circulation.



5. Feeding the skin. The type of creamsused depends on skin type and frequency of facials. Creams replace nutrients the skin may be losing due to neglect or exposure to harsh weather.

A good facialist should make you feel relaxed and pampered. As a rule, blemishes should not be extracted or forced. Some of the machinery a facialist uses looks a little intimidating – sort of like the tools you see in a dentist’s office – but the procedure should be painless. Many aestheticians have such a gentle touch that their clients fall asleep. When a facial is completed, your skin should not be sensitive or look red or blotchy.

Make-up stylists and skin care experts most frequently recommended getting a facial at these salons:



Renee’s Cosmetology Center

4447 McKinney

526-0196

Renee’s is really a school, not a salon, but they need guinea pigs to train their students. If you’re willing to be a guinea pig, a facial costs only $5. Each student is supervised by a licensed aesthetician.



Rose Pallia

The French Boutique

5934 Royal Lane

361-8439

Rose was trained in Europe and has a particularly gentle touch. She makes some of the masks and lotions herself and is willing to schedule working women at odd hours. Each facial is $30.



La Contessa Too

Spanish Village at Coit and Arapaho

239-5391

Open 8 to 5, Monday-Saturday

Mini facials-$15. $20

I hour facial-$25

l ’/2 hourfacial-$32



Neiman-Marcus Beauty Terrace

Downtown/741-6911

Monday-Saturday, 9:30-4

NorthPark/363-8311

Monday-Saturday, 10-4

N-M offers four types of facials for $25 or $35.



Coiffure Continental

210 NorthPark Center

363-9331

Monday-Friday 9-4:30

Thursdays until 6. Saturdays until 3:30

Facial-$15



Services for The Total You



Maybe you need more than a facial and a make-up analysis to feel ’”made-over.” There are two services in town which deal with “the total you.”



The Glamour Group

Jeff Alexander, Gene Furness and Carolyn Sutton have started a workshop for people who want advice on clothing, make-up, hair-styling, body toning and, most important, help in finding their own individual style. Experts in fashion, make-up and hairstyling are brought in to supplement their program. “Glamour is really an attitude. It comes from within a person,” says Alexander. “So many women follow fads and buy an external look that isn’t right for them in the first place. Then they wonder why they can’t back it up.” The workshop lasts 10 weeks and meets every Tuesday night from 7 to 9:30. Classes are limited to 10 people. The cost is $200 per person. For more information, contact The Glamour Group at 528-2700.



The Concierge

Mary Tillery conducts two different types of seminars. One is for groups of at least 20 but no more than 40 people. In two three-hour sessions, she and a staff of experts discuss fashion, make-up, hair care and body toning, with particular attention given to the ways in which these externals can help women have a healthier self-image. The course is offered on Monday only and costs $100 per person. If you don”t feel like rounding up your office staff or women’s club for this seminar. Mary also conducts a two-hour course for any number of people on wardrobe planning. She explains how to get the most out of your wardrobe for the least investment and evaluates retail stores in the area. The cost is $25 per person. For information, call 522-0628.

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