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Food and Spirits DINING OUT

By D Magazine |

Eye of Newt, Toe of Frog



When you drop an Alka-Seltzer in a glass of water does it sound like the Big Thompson River cascading down from the
spring thaw in the Rockies? Does your stomach remind you of the dishwasher when it shifts into the pots and pans
cycle? Is your tongue jaded and grotesque? Roof of your mouth feel like sculptured shag? Teeth itch? You, sir, have
a hangover. But before you bemoan the loss of the body which has become so dear to you, peruse this assemblage of
antidotes to anguish which we have collected from empathetic inebriates and practitioners (both amateur and
professional) of the medicinal arts.

Crime and Punishment

Some psychologists are convinced that the real cause of the hangover is guilt. You know that you have done wrong and
that punishment must ensue. Thus the hangover. If you cursed the boss or pinched Fred’s wife the night before, all
the more guilt, all the worse hangover. To purge oneself of this guilt calls for the harshest of remedies, not the
least of which is the Prairie Oyster:

1 tsp. Worcestershire

1 drop Tabasco

2 tsp. catsup

1/2 tsp. vinegar

Pinch of salt and pepper

Pour all of this over a raw egg, then down it in a single swallow.



Stale beer is another popular punishment, as is the rather unlikely mixture of stout and champagne, in equal
proportions, called the Black Velvet. The Russians use salted cucumber juice.

Adding Fuel to the Fire

The hair of the dog remedy is a paradox known only to hangover devotees. It’s something like slamming a door on your
hand, then the next morning slamming the same door on just the index finger to appease the rest of the hand. It all
began during the grandeur that was Rome. The Romans believed that if you were bitten by a wild dog it was imperative
to drink wine containing burnt hair from the same dog that administered the bite. Little is recorded as to how the
dog was apprehended or how it reacted to the hair removal process. At any rate, since some of the wounded survived,
the remedy became widely accepted – even to this day. The favorite of favorites is the Bullshot:

1 oz. vodka

1/2 tsp. Worcestershire

1/4 oz. lemon juice

Dash of Tabasco

3 oz. beef bouillon

And Trader Vic’s Bartender’s Guide has even named a drink Hair of the Dog:

1 oz. Scotch

1/2 oz. cream

1/2 oz. honey

Blend with shaved ice.

Greasing the Skids

There is a popular belief, apparently with some medical support, that the best way to ward off a hangover is to
drink milk. (Some suggest olive oil, but this seems to elevate the remedy to a level of distaste equal to the
hangover itself.) Milk is said to spread itself over the lining of the stomach, protecting the sensitive innards
from evil liquids. And the sooner the better, ideally before the evening revelry even begins. Some drink nothing but
Scotch and milk, downing the opposing influences in the same gulp to let them fight it out below. One local imbiber
says that it even helps to drink milk the morning after. We asked whether the milk should be hot or cold.
“Preferably cold. It has been my experience that hot milk will make you vomit.” Here’s a simple recipe for Milk
Punch:

2 oz. brandy

4 oz. milk

1/2 tsp. sugar syrup

1 egg

Blend and serve over crushed ice.

Nibbling throughout the course of the evening, particularly the high protein tidbits such as cheese and sausage
balls, also seems to help immensely. The food serves as a sort of blotter, soaking up a large measure of the alcohol
before it can devastate you. One local tippler never imbibes heavily without a midnight snack of scrambled eggs
topped with chili.

Play Dead, But Don’t Roll Over

There is a local cult with a large following which believes that the only effective weapon against a hangover is
absolute immobility. This requires careful planning. Be sure that all shades and drapes are tightly drawn, otherwise
a crack of light could cause a reflexive jerk of the eyelid, thereby violently shaking the wounded body. Drink no
morning liquids, no matter how parched and swollen the tongue becomes, or else you will not be able to withstand the
urge to arise. If you must, have a sip of water, but only in this manner: Take a soft towel and wrap one end around
the glass. Grasp the wrapped glass in your right hand. Carefully place the other end of the towel around the back of
your neck, then clasp that end in your left hand. Slowly pull down on the towel with your left hand, which will
hoist the glass toward your lips.

The leader of the local chapter of the Immobility Society is a Dallas petroleum engineer. “Last New Year’s I came in
and knew I’d had it. I had everything set up to sleep in. At about eight in the morning I saw this blur barreling
down the hall toward me. Before I could open my mouth and try to scream, my six-year-old son jumped on me, stuck his
knee in the pit of my stomach, and shouted ’Happy New Year, Daddy.’ “

The Sufferin’ Bawstard

Many years ago in Cairo, there was a regiment of British troops with little to divert their attention except strong
drink. One rainy morning an unseeing sergeant staggered into the Shepheard Hotel, felt his way to the bar and said
“Matey, can you fix something special for a poor sufferin’ bawstard?” The compassionate barkeep concocted this
potion to put the wretch out of his misery:

1 oz. brandy

1 oz. gin

1 oz. lime juice

4 dashes bitters

3 oz. ginger ale

Word of this marvelous cure quickly spread throughout the British Empire, and soon thereafter to the whole world. As
far as we know, however, there has yet to be devised an antidote for the afternoon miseries which ensue when the
temporary euphoria from this lovely liquid vanishes.

For Bitter or For Worse

For some reason, bitters have gained acceptability throughout the world as hangover remedies. The Germans drink
Underberg, the Italians Branca Fernet. Both are quite potent and can cause the same afternoon difficulties as the
Suf-ferin’ Bawstard. (Your doctor, by the way, would probably advise you that the intake of any of these early
morning de-sensitizers makes a hell of a poor habit.) Angostura and soda water is also popular with the bitter pill
set. And Sazerac (a blend of Angostura, rum, Pernod and sugar syrup) is a featured eye opener at Brennan’s, the
recognized downtown Dallas morning-after headquarters.

Variations on a Theme in Red

Perhaps the most widely recognized morning-after beverage in all the world is the Bloody Mary. It’s rich in
vitamins, which appeals to the health freaks. It tastes bad enough to interest the maso-chists. And it’s made with
vodka, said to be the “purest” of liquors and therefore the least harmful. (Though if that’s the case we cannot
understand why the grocery shelves in Moscow are said to stay well-stocked with cucumber juice.) Others prefer
plain, ice-cold tomato juice, and still others a cold can of whole peeled tomatoes. There is a Dallas-based salesman
who is fond of partying all night, then recovering with a four-ounce shot of ice-cold tomato juice mixed with four
teaspoons of Tabasco. Those who have witnessed this ritual marvel at the continued existence of the various sections
of the drummer’s digestive tract.

The Laredo Special

A Fort Worth lawyer relates this experience from his hell-raising days. “I was working in Laredo before the war.
Every night I would go across the border to carouse. I got to be pretty good buddies with some of the Mexicans, and
finally they let me in on their secret of how to avoid hangovers.” The answer was menudo, a peppery, oniony stew
that has a remarkable ability to absorb alcohol. The Mexicans would invariably take time out from their tequila at
one or two o’clock in the morning to down a bowl of the miraculous stew.

’’ It was the damnedest thing I ever saw. I had a big bowl of menudo with the boys and the next morning I woke up
feeling great.” Our gringo crossed the bridge early that night to report on the excellent state of his health. “How
do you make that stuff?” he demanded to know. “Goots,” replied his compadre. “You make weeth goots.” “What the hell
are goots?” the American queried.

“Oh, you comprende, companero. Goots. G-u-t-s, goots. How you say, cow goots.”

And so it goes. But enough of this advice from scoundrels and revelers. What do the doctors think? “The best thing
for a hangover is oxygen,” says a Dallas physician. “We used to really shoot it to the winos when I was working in
the hospital. But oxygen is not generally available except to airline pilots. About the only other thing that really
helps is rest, preferably sleep.”

We also talked with Dr. William Sargent of the Alcohol Research Center at Tennessee Psychiatric Hospital in Memphis.
He was not impressed with the hair of the dog technique. “Alcohol will provide some temporary relief from the
hangover, just like any other depressant would. But you are really just compounding the problem. As far as I know,
there is no practical way to alleviate the symptoms of a hangover.”

It seems that humorist Robert Bench-ley was not far off the mark when he responded to a request for advice on
hangover remedies: “There is no cure . . save death.”

– Tom Peeler

Newcomers

Jennivine. Just a few months ago, Dallas was blessed with its first “wine bar” (La Cave on Henderson). Now,
close on its heels, comes a second. Where the accent at La Cave is distinctly French, the accent at Jennivine is
decidedly British, in both cases reflecting the native homes of the owners. Jennivine is a warmly remodeled little
frame house on McKinney Avenue, done up in rich dark woods and deep greens, with a bit of the ol’ pub feeling about
it. For serious wine people, Jennivine is somewhat of a disappointment (especially when the obvious comparison to La
Cave is made) – there is a limited overall selection (mostly because of unfortunate storage limitations), only two
or three wines served by the glass, and no “take-out” sales for off-premise consumption. But as a place to sip and
nibble, Jennivine is a satisfactory option. An excellent pate maison (featured as a complimentary dish during “pate
hour” in the late afternoon) is the crowning achievement here; the pate chasseur, however, is much less appealing.
Nice salads and quiches, a rather uninspired cheese board, and a daily special round out the menu. (Dinner was not
yet being served during our visits.) Service, particularly the wine service, is almost too casual, but very friendly
and refreshingly unpretentious. And, ah, those wonderful British accents. (3605 McKinney at
Lemmon/528-6010/Lunch: 11-2:30, Dinner: 6-11, Wine: ll a.m.-midnight/ Reservations on weekends/MC, V/$)


Pompano. This restaurant knows what it wants to do, which is more than you can say for most of the new
restaurants on Greenville Avenue. The menu is almost exclusively seafood, and for sheer chutzpah it tops any other
in Dallas – scallops, scrod, flounder, oysters, clams, Maine lobster. What’s lacking at the moment is consistency.
The Pompano en Papillote. a generous fillet covered with a light shrimp and crab sauce and cooked in a sack, is
outstanding, but the soft-shell crabs were over-cooked and greasy, somewhat like French fries from a corner
take-out. The lemon sole was pasty and topped with a sauce reminiscent of Cheez Whiz, but the scallops en brochette
were moist and tasty. And so it goes, appetizers included. Delicious Oysters Bienville and excellent crab fingers,
served with a gently spiced sauce, but mediocre fish and clam chowders and a dreary salad. One has the feeling that
the raw materials are first-rate but that the chefs haven’t yet developed the light touch that is essential in
preparing good seafood. Service is attentive but not always well-coordinated. You’re likely to get six loaves of
bread and then have to wait half an hour for a cup of coffee. Practice should correct this problem. One hopes it
does the same for the kitchen’s problems. Pompano is certainly an ambitious restaurant, with a tasteful uptown
nautical decor. May it stay afloat. (6950 Greenville/750-6728/ Dinner: 5-11 /Reservations/V, MC, AE,
CB/$$$)


Recommended Restaurants



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit then that we recommend all of them highly.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid
preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general price range.



$ – Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ – Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ – Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $10 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ – Very expensive.



Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC – Master Charge / V – Visa / AE – American Express / DC – Diner’s Club / CB – Carte
Blanche / “All Credit Cards” indicates that all the above are accepted.



Continental



D REVISITS

Arthur’s. First-class restaurants often become second-class restaurants at lunch – the chef takes a break,
the evenings busboys get training time as waiters, and the menu suffers from attrition But lunch at Arthur’s is
almost as special as dinner. It’s a favorite businessmen’s re-rreat. and the portions are designed to keep the
three-martini-luncher on an even keel. Try the open-face roast beef sandwich or the magnificent calves liver with
Canadian bacon and sau-teéd onions Dinner maintains the restaurant’s reputation for sophistication without

stuffiness Have the fine vichyssoise – perhaps the best in Dallas – and any of the beef dishes. The lamb chops are
sensational, especially if you think lamb chops are gristly little knots of meat attached to greasy bones and come
on styrofoam trays with little boxes of mint jelly These are great, succulent wonders, perfectly seasoned and
lovingly cooked Arthur’s is not for the budget watcher – its prices are for the expense account set – but the
quality is high, too. (1000 Campbell Centre/361-8833/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11. Sat till
midnight/Reserva-tions/AII credit cards/$$$)




Bagatelle. This stylish restaurant has always delighted us with its atmosphere. but never overwhelmed us with
its food The kitchen is competent but not dazzling. One standout is the tournedos cafe royale.” The new menu also
features a rich and intriguing pheasant under glass, but you II have to decide whether you want to pay that much for
any entree. Service is sometimes well-paced. sometimes not The companion Plaza Cafe has a rather windy
outdoor dining area, and a pleasant indoor one The food there is nothing exceptional, but it’s a nice place for a
snack and a drink if you’re on Greenville and don’t want to fend off singles. (One Energy Square. Greenville at
University/692-8224/Bagatelle: Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till 11. bar till 2.
Plaza: Lunch Mon-Fri 11 30-2:30. Dinner Mon-Sat 6-midnight/Reservations/MC,V,AE,DC/$$$-$$)


Le Bistro. It’s impossible not to like this place, with its sophisticated renovation of an old Oak Lawn house
and its excellent service, but there’s something lacking in the kitchen. Appetizers and salads are excel lent:
especially the escargots and the “Salade Le Bistro” with avocado and fresh mushrooms. But the entrees often come to
the table over- or under-cooked, and carelessly seasoned Too bad. because they have the right idea, offer a limited
range of French entrees. Maybe they’re learning and maybe they’ll get it right some day. Meanwhile, we keep hoping.
(3716 Bowser, just off Oak Lawn/528-4181/Tue-Thur 6-11; Fri & Sat 6-11; Sun 6-10/Reservations/MC, V.
AE/$$$)


Brasserie. The most elegant coffee shop” in town In the wee hours of the morning (they re open 24 hours),
stop by to treat yourself to Dallas’ best Eggs Benedict – sprinkled with truffles (at 3 a.m. they bother?), or a
sandwich of sirloin on crisp, buttery French bread During the other hours, especially lunch, the fare is mostly
overpriced and undistinguished (Fairmont Hotel. Floss & Akard/ 748-5454/24 hours. seven days a week/No
reservations/ MC, V, AE, DC/$$)


Calluaud. One of Dallas’ most civilized restaurants Set in a small frame house, with a casual yet intimate
atmosphere complemented by consistently fine French foods Superb soups and excellent omelettes, and desserts not to
be missed: simple and wonderful fruit tarts (try the apple) and exquisite profiteroles. The imaginative dinner menu
changes frequently but recently featured a fabulous roast duck and Guy Calluaud’s superb Veau Normande For lunch,
the filet of sole is an excellent alternative if for some reason you want to pass up the omelettes Prices are a
bargain for the quality. Reservations – made well in advance, especially for weekends – are necessary. (2917
Fairmount off Cedar Springs/ 742-8525/Lunch: Mon-Fn 11:30-2:30 p.m.;Dinner Mon-Fn 6 30-10:30. Sat till 11. closed
Sun/Reservations/MC, V, AE/$$$)


La Cave. The first wine bar toopen in Dallas, so some visitors haven’t quite caught on to the fact that they
can go here and sample fine wines and then buy bottles to take home with them Food is a secondary consideration good
salads, sandwiches, paté, and cheeses to keep you steady as you sample the wonderful array of wines. Congenial and
civilized, though the wine chat can get an-noyingly snobbish at times. (2926 Henderson/826-2190/ Lunch: Mon-Sat
11-2:30: Dinner: Mon-Fri 5:30-12. Sat till 1. open for off-premise wine sales all day/No reserva-tions/MC,
V/$)


Chablis. An odd little French restaurant, difficult to put your finger on – the style is neither elegant nor
quaint. But the food. while in some instances overpriced, is decidedly good A tasty complimentary rillettes, a fine
pepper steak, and a subtly glazed roast duckling are highlights Light flaky bread (with a very “French” flavor) and
the sweetest, richest chocolate mousse in town. (120 Quadrangle, 2800 Routhl522-0910IMon-Thur 6-11. Fri & Sat
till midnight, closed Sun/Reservations on weekendslMC, V. AE. DC/$$$)


Chateaubriand. A wide-ranging menu, with everything from sweetbreads to frog legs to lobster to veal
parmigiana, and a high percentage of it is quite well-executed. The standouts, interestingly, are the Greek
specialties: try the pastitsa and dolma appetizer and the “Greek veal” in a pleasant lemon-butter-oregano sauce.
Chateaubriand’s old-fashioned overdressed style is not to all tastes, but service is attentive and the place is
comfortable. Lunch is nothing special (2575 McKinney/741-1223IMon-Sat
11:30a.m.-midnight/Reservations/AIIcreditcards/$$$)


The Chimney. An unpretentious Swiss-Austrian restaurant that specializes in excellent veal, ranging from a
simple lemon veal to more extravagant preparations Also one of the few places where you can have venison. And for
dessert, have the excellent home-made cheesecake. At lunch, the fare is strictly ladies’ tearoom, though it’s one of
the best of its kind Attentive service, and a nice atmosphere (though the piano is placed too close to some of the
tables to make conversation comfortable) (Willow Creek. 9739 N Cen Expwy at Walnut Hill/369-6466/Lunch: Tue-Sat
11:30-2: Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10.30, Sun brunch 11 -2/Reservations/MC. AE, DC/$$$)


Ewald’s. Loyal regulars flock to this old standard, whose decor and menu have changed very little over the
years. The style is sort of continental home-cooking; more hearty than delicate, more homey than classy The veal is
excellent, though some preparations are over-embellished. Try the veal Papagallo with Canadian bacon and Swiss
cheese or the veal Picatta-Milanese. Excellent pepper steak and Tenderloin a la Ewald, ” And a rarity –
well-prepared fresh vegetables. Have a side order of spaetzli if your entree doesn’t come with it, and conclude with
the Black Forest cake. No frills, but tew disappointments, either (5415 W Lovers Ln/357-1622/Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat
6-11/Reservations/MC,. V/$$$)


The Grape. An old favorite with some new delights, especially at lunch, which has become more adventurous.
The beef dishes, particularly the tournedos béarnaise and the boeuf à la mode, are outstanding. Other delights are
the escargots aux champignons and the omelette aux crevettes chinoise (with shrimp, mushrooms, and bean sprouts) The
mushroom soup is famous, but the potage au Tripoli, a chickpea soup with herbs and spices, is a new winner Still
hard to beat for the money. (2808 Green-ville/823-O133/Lunch:Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30, open later
on Fri & Sat for wine and cheese only/No Reservations/MC, V/$$)




D REVISITS

Marcel’s. Marcel’s has always been a quiet, subdued sort of restaurant, but at the moment some of the
understatement could pass for drabness. Not that things are bad, exactly, just uninspired, as though the entire
operation were running at quarter speed At $6.95, the table d’h6te dinner is still one of the best bargains in town,
and if you choose carefully – the Beef Wellington, for instance, or the coq au vin – you can have a pleasant evening
at a remarkable price Beyond this, things need sprucing up. The complimentary hors d’oeuvres, consisting of an
indifferent paté and an assortment of pickled vegetables, are hardly mouth watering, and both the soups and the
salads are thoroughly ordinary. (Won’t someone declare a moratorium on iceberg lettuce and cherry tomatoes?)
Marcel’s has a solid wine list, however, and a nice selection of cheeses and desserts, all served by waiters who
seem to know what they’re doing but aren’t about to do it with much flair or enthusiasm Five years ago, Marcel’s
might have seemed impressive, but with the current explosion of continental restaurants in Dallas, it has some
catching up to do. (5721 Lovers Ln/358-2103/Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight. Closed
Mon/ReservationslMC, V, AE, DC/$$)




Mr. Peppe. Old-timers swear by it, and it was once one of the best restaurants in Dallas. But the years have
not beer kind, and you may find it drab rather than cozy. The key word in recent years has been”inconsistency” When
this restaurant is good, it’s very, very good And fortunately it’s never terribly bad. Try the pepper steak, which
is stunningly seasoned, and the excellent desserts; otherwise, take your chances – and good luck. (5617 W Lovers
Lnl352-5976/Mon-Sat 6-10/Reservations/MC. V, A.,DC/$$$)


Old Warsaw. The “new Old Warsaw” – after some tasteful remodeling of the interior and some successful
revamping of the menu – is on the upswing. The place is less gilded, more engaging. The new menu is less erratic,
more interesting. New treats: a paté of duck, crème de cresson (puree of watercress), and a splendid Cote de Veau
Also a nightly selection of “Nouvelle Cuisine,”the reduced-calorie style popularized by Paul Bocuse. The prices were
not remodeled – still very expensive – but now the paying is less painful. (2510 Maple/528-0032/ Daily 6-11, Sat
Ml midnight/Reservations/MC, V, AE, DC/$$$$)


Patry’s. When the Patry family is at work, you can’t go wrong. Start with the poireaux farcis (stuffed leeks)
or the delicate, light, near-perfect vichyssoise, then have any of the superb entrees: a wonderful coq au vin, a
filet in a flawless béarnaise, or their splendid escalope of veal The place itself is a bit sterile except for
their terrific – and very French- little bar. (2504 McKinney/748-3754/ Tue-Fri 6-11, Sat till 1l:30
/Reservations/MC, V, AE, DCI$$$)


Pyramid Room. The classiest dining room in Dallas – an aura of affluence and impeccable taste A paragon of
service – absolutely professional but without pomposity, including a theatrical sommelier A dizzying dinner menu of
French specialties of the highest order (lunch is less glamorous). The Grand Marnier dessert souffle is a triumph.
In sum, Dallas’ finest restaurant.But even at that, capable of disappointment because it is so expensive. Too
expensive But always a pleasure if you can pay the price. (Fairmont Hotel. Ross & Akard/748-5454/ Lunch: Mon-Fri
11:30-2:30; Dinner:Daily 6-midnight/ Reservations/All credit cards/$$$$)




Italian

Campisi’s. The sign says “Egyptian Restaurant,” but the place is strictly Italian, carried on in the proud
family tradition of papa Carlo Campisi. whose portrait still watches over the proceedings. Dallas’ original pizza
specialists – and still the best. Or try the plateful of sausage and peppers. Warm (in fact steamy) and wonderful –
and always a waiting line to prove it. (5610 E Mockingbird/827-0355/Mon-Fri 11 a..m.-midnight, Sat till 1 a.m..
Sun noon-midnight/No credit cards. Checks accepted/Reservations tor 6 or more/$)


lanni’s. An undistinguished shopping center facade, an entry lobby tacked with Dallas sports photos and
celebrity glossies, and a dining room that’s a vineyard of plastic grapes doesn’t bode well. But lanni’s can
surprise you. It’s relaxed and unpretentious – a throwback to simpler dining. The waitresses are pros and the
kitchen is sound if not stunning. And the homemade Italian sausage is as good as any in town. (2230
Greenville/826-6161 /Daily 5:30-11 p.m./ReservationslMC, AE/$$)


II Sorrento. Still maintaining the elusive blend of friendliness and intimacy that gives it a unique
personality among Dallas restaurants. II Sorrento is competently staffed from strolling musician to head chef Its
veal dishes are invariably superb, and the beef entrees – tournedos Rossini and medallions of beef frascati in
particular – are outstanding An excellent wine list and a know-ledgable sommelier. And the most delightfully hoky
decor in town The only major criticism we have is that reservations sometimes get lost and you wind up waiting in
the bar anyway Fortunately, the wait is worth it. (8616 Turtle Creek. North of NW Hwy/352-8759/Daily 5:30-11, Sat
till midnight/Reservations except on Fri & Sat/All credit cards/$$$)


Italian Pavilion. An out-of-the-way location and rather garish decor are the negatives here Otherwise, the
food is excellent, including the delicious hot antipasto and fine veal dishes, particularly the veal Fiorentina,
with crab meat, and the veal Gaetano, with madeira sauce and mushrooms. Soups and salads are less distinguished, and
the service, while pleasant, can be slow A good, moderately priced wine list and excellent cappuccino help round out
the generally positive picture of Italian Pavilion. (Le Baron Hotel. 1055 Regal Row at Carpenter Fwy/634-85501
Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri-Sat 6-11:30, closed Sun/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)


Lombardi’s. No gimmicks, just a delightfully remodeled old house where they serve excellent Italian food at
reasonable prices The lasagna (the lightest version imaginable) and the saltimbocca are standouts – maybe the best
in town. The manicotti is made with a crêpe-like pasta, the pork parmigiana is an unusual delight and the rich
green-noodle fettucine is outstanding. A warning on the minestrone: it is thick and flavorful but stew-like – an
appetite killer. Lunch is usually less impressive than dinner. But everyone is eager to please at Lombardi’s; the
service is sophisticated and responsive. (2815 Mc-Kinney Ave/823-6040/Lunch; Mon-Sat 11-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur
6-10:30. Fri & Sal till 11lReservations/MC, V. AE/$$$)


Mario’s. One of few Dallas restaurants to take the sophisticated approach and do so with dignity, with
natural elegance. A longstanding family success, so there is an air of confidence and pride. Delicious
roquefort-based cheese spread (complimentary), dense and delicious French bread loaves, marvelous fried zucchini.
Try the “Fritiura Delizie Romana,” a batter fried spinach appetizer. Entrees (northern Italian specialties) are
stylish but not exceptional Splendid wine list. (135 Turtle Creek Village/521-1135/Daily 6-11, Sat till
midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)


Pietro’s. In a city without neighborhood restaurants. Pietro’s comes closest to what you’d find in, say, the
North End of Boston – homestyle Sicilian cooking with scads of loyal patrons. The pasta dishes are the best bets,
though Pietro’s veal scallopini a la Siciliano is excellent. Have the crème caramel for dessert. Friendly, brisk
service, though the “No reservations” policy means you’ll have to wait. It’s usually worth it. (5722 Richmond off
Greenville/ 824-9403/Tue-Thur 530-10 p.m. ,Fri & Sat till 11 pm./No reservations/No credit cards/$$)


Oriental



China Inn. A competent, dependable Chinese restaurant, crowded even on weekdays. Definitely better at dinner
than at lunch. Good appetizers, well-prepared sweet and sour dishes The standouts are ginger beef, crackling with
mildly hot slices of ginger, and war sue har, delicately fried shrimp with a delicious red sauce Amiable and quick
service, (6521 E NW Hwy/361-7733/ Lunch; Mon-Fri 11-2 p.m.; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10:30 p.m. , Fri & Sat 5-midnight;
Sun 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m./Reservations tions 5 or more/MC, V. AE/$$)


Chinese Pavilion. The menu here is identical to that of Hunan, the restaurant that spawned this one. Be
adventurous and put yourself in the waiter’s hands. For $8 per person you’ll be treated to a multicourse dinner
featuring the chef’s Hunan and Szechuan-style specialties. And the crabmeat and corn soup is a must. (European
Crossroads, 2829 W Northwest Hwy/357-5777/Sun- Thur 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri & Sat till midnight/Reservations/MC, V,
AE/$$)


Hunan. Currently Dallas’ best Chinese restaurant The Hunan cuisine that is its specialty is milder than
you’ll find in New York, but still potent. Have the “pu pu tray” of appetizers, and then you’re on your own – it’s
all good (though we recommend Hunan Lamb. Champagne Chicken, and Shrimp with Garlic Sauce). Small and comfortable,
but service is sometimes haughty and cold. (5214 Greenville Ave at Lovers Ln/369-4578/Mon-Thur 11:30a.m. -11
p.m., Fri, Sat & Sun 11-midnight/Reserva-tions/MC, V, AE/$$)


Peking Palace. Once Dallas’ Oriental best, but it hasn’t quite kept up with the booming competition. Too many
items taste warmed-over, but the Szechuan-style selections are. for the most part, excellent {try the shredded pork
with garlic sauce). And the Won Ton soup is the best in town. And still the most pleasant dining room of any Dallas
Oriental restaurant. (4119 Lomo Alto/522-1830/ Lunch:Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30;Dinner:Mon-Thur5-11, Fri & Sat till
midnight, Sun noon-10 p.m./Reservations on weekends/MC, V, AE/$$)


Ports O’Call. The menu now docks in many new ports (wiener schnitzel from Germany, steak au poivre from
France, etc.). though the featured fare is still mostly Polynesian And nothing special at that – but then that’s
never been the appeal here anyway. The attractions are the lavish (almost ludicrous) dining rooms, the 37th floor
view with the “big-city” feeling, and the exotic rum concoctions in the tiki-god-and-blowiish bar – try the Test
Pilot, limit 2 per customer (Southland Center, 2117 Live Oak/742-2334 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily
5:30-10:30/ReservationslAII credit cards/$$$)


Royal Tokyo. As far as service and consistency of cuisine are concerned. Royal Tokyo seems to have risen from
its period of decline. But it’s not quite the star it once was Perhaps the competition has forced it to Americanize
its menu, because the sauces and seasonings are anything but delicate. A pity, because real Japanese cuisine
is among the most subtle in the world Still a pleasantly appointed place Try the shabu-shabu, a variation on
sukiyaki. (7525 Greenville Ave/368-3304/Lunch Daily11:30-2, except Sat; Dinner: Mon- Thur5:30-11. Fri & Sat till
11:30, Sun 5-10/Reservations/MC. V, AE, DC/$$$)


South China. Quiet and consistent. South China continues to distinguish itself from the ever-increasing
hordes of competitors. The combination appetizer plate is perhaps the best in Dallas and the Mandarin specialties
that follow usually keep up the pace: fine sizzling rice soup, moo shi pork, beef with green onion and ginger, and
tantalizing sweet and sour shrimp Black bean sauce is a favorite here – try it over the braised chicken and you’ll
see why Their new spinoff restaurant, Chu’s in Addison, shows promise of being even better. (5424 E
Mocking-bird!826-5420/Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30, Sat & Sun noon-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-11. Fri & Sat 5-12. Sun 5-10/
Reservations/MC, V, AE/$$)


Szechuan. The Lemmon Avenue spinoff of Greenville Avenue’s Hunan restaurant does justice to the parent
organization’s menu. The first page of “Chef Specialties” is special indeed. Try the Hunan Beef, River Shang Pork,
House Lamb, or House Chicken The more traditional items, such as hot and sour soup, moo shi pork, or lo mein, are
also recommended. The dining room is on the stark and sterile side, and the service is sometimes charming but
inarticulate. A pleasant oasis in the fast food desert.(4177 Lemmon near Douglas/521-6981/ Daily 11:30a.m. -11
p.m., Fri & Sat till midnight/Reserva-tions on weekends/MC, V, AE, DC/$$)


Trader Vic’s. Have fun, but don’t expect anything sublime here – they cover too much ground to have any
specialties except the wacky drinks (gardenias floating in rum punch, and so on). The creamed curry dishes are nice,
the Indonesian lamb interesting, and the Chinese dishes varied but over-sweet. But while the mood may be fun, the
prices are serious. Just have another Samoan Fog Cutter and you may not even notice. (Hilton Inn, 5600 N Cen
Expwy/827-3620/Daily 5-11:30 p.m., weekends till midnight/Reservations/AII credit cards/$$$)




Mexican

Adelante. An odd little spot in an almost secretive behind-the-shopping-center location. But once you find
it, you’ll surely find your way back. Fantastic and unique Mexican food graced with flair and freshness. Thin,
grease-tinged tostadas made on the spot, nachos buried in fresh relishes, flautas with fabulous guacamole. delicate
green chile quiche, and an egg and tortilla dish called “Chila-quiles” – both subtle and exotic. And don’t pass up
the unbelievable praline cheesecake. Bar “by membership.” (5934 Royal Ln /691-8301/Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri&
Sat till 10 p.m., closed Sun/No reservations/ MC, V, AE/$)


Chiquita. One of the most cheerful restaurants in town, and – at least where Mexican food is concerned – one
of the best. Tex-Mex has never been Chiquita’s forte, but they serve some sensational specialties, like an excellent
tortilla soup and fabulous chicken sour cream enchiladas. In their new location they’ve stopped serving
complimentary cups of bean soup, so order some – it may be the best this side of the border. Always crowded, but
always delightful. (3810 Congress, off Oak Lawn/ 521-0721/Mon-Sat 11:30-11 I No reservations/MC, V, AE/ $)

El Taxco. Maybe the best dining value in Dallas. Dependable Tex-Mex right down to the retried beans just the
way they ought to be – and at very low prices. A subtle style with less hot seasonings makes it an especially good
spot for newcomers to Mexican food. A casual, friendly cafe. (2126 N St Paul/742-0747/Wed-Mon 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.,
closed Tue/No reservations/MC/$)


Herrera Cafe. Home-cooked Tex-Mex from two odd locations. The ludicrous-looking newer version on Lemmon
Avenue serves the same great food as the original adobe hole-in-the-wall on Maple. But at the Lemmon location,
quality is not a certainty Visit Maple for good old fat flour tortillas hot off the grill, wonderful burntos, great
guaca-mole. And the menudo is a community tradition. (3902 Maple/526-9427/Weekdays 9 a.m. -8 p.m., closed Monl No
reservations/No credit cards/$)




D REVISITS



Javier’s. Javier’s continues to serve “gourmet” Mexican food in a quietly elegant setting, but the whole
operation has been tightened up since opening day. Some items have been dropped, such as the fried pork skin
munchies and the cactus salad, and the waiters have eased up on their histrionics, which some nights resembled a
cross between flamenco and Ballet Russe. Good thing, considering how crowded the place usually is. The Red Snapper
Javier (formerly Veracruzana) remains a standout, with the Garlic Shrimp Guaymas and the Corazon de Filete (a
tenderloin filet with huitlacoche crêpes) right behind. Among the newcomers, the pork chops with a fruit and wine
sauce are outstanding. Javier’s obviously has the knack for seasoning food without overpowering it. For dessert, the
Peaches en Alimbar and the mango custard are excellent, and the Cajeta Crêpes superb. If you have nothing planned
for the following day, you might also try the special coffee flambé, a mixture of brandy and half a dozen other
liqueurs. In general, a good restaurant that seems to be getting better. (4912 Cole Ave/521-4211/Weekdays 11-11,
Fri & Sat till 11:30, closed Sun/MC, AE/$$)




Raphael’s. The ever-present waiting line tells you how good it is But popularity does have its problems – the
hustle-bustle can be nerve-wracking and weekends are hopeless But if you can hit a lull in the action, the warm
ranch-house atmosphere is lovely. And the food will likely be at its best. If you must have Tex-Mex, the “Raphael’s
Plate” is a superb sampling of good stuff But even better are the specialties: chicken mole, shrimp enchiladas, and
chiles rellenos – a dependable favorite. And maybe best of all. the carne Tampiqueno or the polio Tampi-queno – they
can make the waiting worth it. (3701 Mc-Kinney/521-9640/Mon-Fn 11:30 am-10:30 p.m.. Sat noon-10:30. closed
Sun/Reservations Mon-Thur only/ MC,V, AE/$$)


Spanish



D REVISITS

Gitana. With its white walls and ceilings and ornamental iron work, Gitana is one of the most pleasant
restaurants in town. It’s nice to report that the food is improving steadily, having gone from intermittently awful
to consistently good in a matter of months. Most of the appetizers are excellent, with the ratatouille (diced
eggplant and squash served with a spicy tomato sauce) and the fried artichoke hearts being particular favorites.
There is also a good gazpacho and, most times, a tasty lamb soup. As for the main dishes, the paella is only average
– well-seasoned but a bit too dry – but the shrimp dishes are generally excellent. Gitana also has daily specials,
but the one we tried, scallops and noodles covered with a tomato sauce, was not especially memorable. The lunch menu
includes linguine and fettucine, the latter very rich and creamy, an assortment of salads and sandwiches, and a
delightful boned chicken dish with a Dijon mustard sauce. Good wine selection and some excellent sherries. Service
ranges from attentive to whimsical depending on the day. Gitana still has a way to go, but at the moment it is
clearly headed in the right direction. (3236 McKinney/521-4360ILunch: 11-2; Dinner: 6-11;closed Mon/AE, V,
MC/$$)


Greek



Greek Key. A lively longstanding favorite marked by belly dancing, customer participation, and other revelry.
But the kitchen is serious, doing a creditable job of filling the Dallas Greek food void. Dolmas, pastitso,
spanakopita, moussaka (or try the combination plate). Forgo the “Grecian shrimp,”but don’t pass up the baklava
delicately seasoned with walnuts and honey, finished off by a demitasse of heavy Greek coffee. (2903 W Northwest
Hwy/ 358-5177/Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2 a.m., closed Sun/Ail credit cards/Reservations/$$)


Goldfinger. More successful as a lively, raucous nightclub than as a restaurant, but Goldfinger does provide
some of the city’s best Greek food – a woefully limited aspect of Dallas’ cuisine. So, while you’re clapping and
singing with the Greek musicians, try the flaming saganaki, the avgolemeno soup, the shrimp and meat kostas, and the
veal venetikia. And the dolmas are a must. (2905 Cridelle at W Northwest Hwy/350-6983IMon-Fri 11 a.m -2 a.m.,
Sat-Sun 6 p.m.-2 a.m. /Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)




Southern Specialties



Celebration. Some of the homestyle pride seems occasionally to be missing from the homestyle cooking since
the expansion of this friendly place But still a good-spot for a wholesome meal at a reasonable price. Pot roast is
the best of the five entrees. Plus big bowls of good family-style-help-yourself vegetables Beer and wine are
avail-able now. but try the apple juice at least once – it’s great. (4503 W Lovers Ln/351-5681/Mon-Sat 5:30-11,
Sat till 10:30lNo reservations/MC, V/$)


Dixie House. Good food, amiable service, and great drinks The style is comfortable and casual – a great place
for a lunch break, but not if you’re dieting, since the cuisine is calorie-loaded Southern style. The meat loaf, the
pot roast, and the pork chops are standouts. The fried chicken is a “specialty,” but not to all tastes. The catfish
is variable, and sometimes the French fries are a bit fishy. Try the beer-batter-fried onion rings Another McKinney
Avenue restoration – comfortable and low-keyed, without ersatz nostalgia. (2822 McKinney /823-0071 /Mon-Thur
11-11,Fri & Sat till midnight, Sun noon-11 /No reservations/MC, V, AE/$$)


Red Moon Cafe. Cozy, charming and almost romantic – a purely pleasant little place The menu has Creole
overtones: gumbo (the real thing), crawfish, chicken Jamba-laya.” pork chops “Creole. ” But perhaps their most
winning dish has nothing to do with New Orleans – fettucine that ranks with the best in town. Nice fresh seafood
specials – they’ve done some wonderful things with trout. Open for breakfast, but nothing special, unless coffee is
your passion. Their chicory version has no peer. (4537Cole/526-5391 IMon-Sat 7-2:30. 6-10/ No
reservations/ No credit cards/$)


Sonny Bryan’s. Best barbecue in town? You’ll never get a consensus, but this one gets a lot of votes. Juicy,
juicy stuff in a funky, funky little smokehouse. No tables – you eat on individual school desk tops. Beer, no bar
(2202 lnwood/357-7120/Mon-Sat 6 a.m.-6 p.m., Sun 11-2/No reservations/No credit cards/$)



Indian



D REVISITS

India House. There are tastes and touches in Indian food you won’t get anywhere else, and India House is the
place to experience them all. Though the exotic names might bewilder the uninitiated, a helpful staff will ease you
through the culture shock; the variety plate of appetizers and the Shahi House dinner will get you going. Beyond
these are a host of dishes as good-tasting as they are exciting. Mulligatawney soup, for openers, has ground lentils
and is bright orange; or else you can go with a very good coconut and milk soup. Follow that with Parantha Ahu,
bread with potatoes, peas, and meat, sort of like a puffed taco. A specialty at India House is the Tandoori dinner,
a bright orange chicken dish that comes with dahlk, bread containing yellow lentils and peas, and also with a side
dish of bahjji, cabbage and chutney, in short, a feast in itself. Or try the Bhunna dinner, lamb and rice pilau,
prepared to absolute perfection. Side dishes are a whole other subcontinent open for exploration. You’ll want to
order bread; poori is puffed, chapati is floury, flat bread; both are irresistible. Sample the yellow peas, the
cabbage, and by all means dip into the various condiments, a very minty mint chutney and a fresh, delicious fruit
chutney. Stand warned that the Queen Citriana wine, a sherry-like concoction, packs a punch that will leave you
gasping, and a little dish of aniseed for us spoiled the aftereffect of this splendid meal. But all in all. this
restaurant is better than at our last visit, with added pungency in the meat, vegetables, and bread. (5422 E.
Mockingbird/832-1000/Luncn: daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: 5-10, Fri and Sat until 11/Reservations/All Credit
Cards/$$)




Natural Foods



Health Nut Dallas’ original full-scale natural foods restausettled now in its airy and attractive Lovers Lane
location, crowned by a lovely sun-terrace room upstairs. Good sandwiches, light and imaginative soups, and wonderful
salads – a fresh vegetable saiad with tahini dressing or, even better, a fresh fruit salad in a delicious
lemon-honey dressing. A special steamed meal daily (Tuesday is Mexican and Wednesday is Oriental). And, of course,
smoothies. (4356 W Lovers Ln/692-1411/Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-9 p.m./No reservations/MC/$)



Delicatessens



Kuby’s. Busy and bustling. Excellent homemade sausages (served with hot potato salad or sauerkraut), thick
sandwiches (try the pastrami), great pastries, and a soup of the day which is a lunchtime bargain (700) A congenial
spot with a German accent. (6601 Snider Plaza/363-2231/Mon-Sat 8:30-2:30, sandwiches till 5:30/Noreservations/MC
– $15 minimum/$)


Walls. A worthwhile stop for displaced New Yorkers and insatiable corned beef fans, though its reputation as
the best for kosher-style food in Dallas is earned mainly by default. The kosher standards – gefilte fish, herring
in sour cream, cheese blintzes – are very tasty, but the quality of food and service is uneven. Except for the
disappointing chopped liver, sandwiches are the best bet. And try the outstanding cabbage soup. (10749 Preston
Rd/691-4444/Daily 7:30 a.m. -7:30 p. m./No reservations/ MC, V/$$)


Seafood



S & D Oyster Company. Excellent oysters and shrimp and a few broiled fish – usually snapper or trout – when
they’re available. They wisely avoid the fancier stuff – crab or lobster or clams – that has to be shipped in
frozen. Simplicity of preparation is the key to this restaurant’s well-deserved success. For lunch, oyster loaf –
fried oysters on a French roll with tartar sauce – is a good choice. For dinner, have some boiled shrimp for
starters and finish off with their home-made pie. A bit noisy, .but the place is for eaters as opposed to diners.
Beer and wine only. (2701 McKinney near Routh/823-6350/Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-10p.m., Fri & Sat till 11. closed Sun/No
reservations/MC/$$)




Steaks, Burgers, Etc.



Chill’s. A handsome burger joint. Good chili, unusual soft tacos of flour tortillas, and, best of all, long,
thin, greasy French fries with the skin still on them. Always hopping -you’ll likely wait in line. (7567
Greenville Ave at Meadow Rd/361 -4371 /Daily 11 a.m. -midnight. Fri & Sat till 2 a.m./ No reservations/MC/$)


Houlihan’s. With a menu ranging from a hot dog to roast duck and touching on most everything in between,
there are no great expectations. Which is why Houlihan’s is usually a pleasant surprise for the good – despite the
scope, there are lots of hits and few misses Very good omelettes, burgers, quiche, nice salads, and several more
ambitious options (stuffed shrimp, baked trout, etc.) A host of rich and gooey desserts and cappuccino – a good spot
for midnight munchies. (4 NorthPark East/ 361-9426/Daily 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m ./No reservations/MC. V. AE.
DC/$$)


Ichabod’s. Slick in the Greenville Avenue tradition, bur Ichabod’s is nevertheless a very pleasant and
dependable place. The key to their success is a limited menu of steaks and seafood with nothing so elaborate that
the kitchen staff cant handle it. A nice dining area with its own entrance to separate it from the teeming swingles
bar. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/691-2646/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: daily 6-11 /No reservations/All
credit cards/$$)


Kirby’s. Simply astonishing steaks at prices that will please if not astonish you. Kirby’s is the only place
to think of if all you want is a steak. It has some other things going for it great baked potatoes, a battery of
motherly waitresses, and a Fifties-style decor that’s funky without trying to be. But the main thing here is the
beef. (3715 Greenville/ 823-7296/Tue-Sun 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight/Reservations/All credit
cards/$$)


Stoneleigh P. An Oak Lawn favorite and eclectic hangout. A restoration of what was long a pharmacy – clever
but not cutesy. Provolone cheeseburgers on pumpernickel are the favorite among many goodies. Great magazine rack
(browsing encouraged) and fabulous juke box (from Bach to Stones). (2926 Maple/741-0824/Mon-Thur 11:15-midnight,
Fri & Sat till 1:30 a.m., Sun 12-12; bar daily till 1 a.m., Fri & Sat till 2/No reservations/No credit
cards/$)


Strictly Ta-Bu. A terrific old neighborhood bar with a mixed bag clientele. The original 1948 decor has been
virtually untouched and charms with its classy-tacky effect. Great homemade soups and sometimes great pizza – the
kitchen is rather erratic lately. Also burgers, steaks. sandwiches. Live jazz most nights and an occasional free
flick. (4111 Lomo Alto/526-9325/Mon-Fri 5 pm.-2 a.m., Sat 6 p m.-1 a.m./No reservations/MC, V/$$)

T.G.I. Friday’s. This may be Dallas’ junk food paradise – if junk food means luscious hamburgers (still among
the best in town), a munchy concoction called “nacholupas,” the biggest salad you’ll ever see. and even rhubarb pie
Good steak bargains, avoid the omelettes. The place is lively as ever, with lots of swingles and a little of
everything else. (Old Town, 5500 Greenvtlle/363-53S3/Daily 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m/No reservations/MC, V, AE/$$)



Mainly For Lunch

The Bronx. A warm and funky little place with few pretensions and some territic food coming from its kitchen.
Nothing fancy, just great omelettes (served with a side of Italian sausage and a toasted bagel), sausage sandwiches,
mushroom meatloaf, and a hot pastrami on toasted rye that ranks with the best By all means have dessert homemade
pies and cheesecake and a chocolate mousse that will bring you to your knees Lunch seems to be in general a better
bet than dinner Beer and wine only, but a great selection of that, and a friendly, casual atmosphere. (3835 Cedar
Springs near Oak Lawn/521 -5821/ Daily 11:30-12:30 a.m., bar till 2/No reservations/MC/$$).


Ciro’s. Great Sicilian-style pizza and an attractive array of elaborate sandwiches in an airy, old-time
corner store at McKinney and Hall. The “wine bar” serves fine wines by the glass, the beers include some nice
imports, and there’s a great hard apple cider with a real kick. (3237 McKinney at Hall/745-9464/Mon-Wed 11:30
a.m. -3p.m., Thur & Fri till midnight. Sat till 1 a.m., closed Sun/No reservations/MC/$$)


Gallery Buffet An expertly catered buffet table at the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, featuring hearty soups,
salads, homemade breads, and desserts for only $3 Wine extra. (DMFA, Fair Park/421-4187/Tue-Fri 11:30 am.-1:30
p.m./No reservations/No credit cards/$)


Magic Pan. A very popular place with a delicious selection of crêpes, including outstanding dessert crêpes.
Very crowded during the week, but nice for Sunday brunch or late night after-theater snacks. (NorthPark – New
Mall/ 692-7574/Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-midnight, Fri till 1 a.m.. Sat 10a.m.-1 a.m. , Sun 10 a.m. -midnight/No
reservations/ MC, V. AE. DC/$$)


The Zodiac Room. A local institution that has begun to lack luster, though loyalists still flock there. Lunch
is better than the Thursday buffet. When things are going right, the hot popovers. the cream of spinach soup, the
sea and garden salad, and the vanilla ice cream ball with phenomenal hot fudge sauce are stunning. But things don’t
always go right, so you’ll have to decide for yourself whether the Zodiac is a tradition worth observing.
(Nei-man-Marcus, downtown/741-6911/Mon-Sat 10:30 a.m-2:30 p.m.; teatime daily 3-5 p.m except Thur 2:30-3:30; Thur
dinner 5-7 p.m./Reservations/Neiman-Marcus charge card only, checks accepted/$$)




Fort Worth Restaurants



Angelo’s. A name that’s known across the state as one of Texas premiere barbecue pits. And it is. Gireat
beef, rich spicy sauce, big sandwiches, cold draught, and a setting that fits- West Texas rustic and sawdust floors.
And overlooking the proceedings is a monstrous stuffed bear – a landmark himself. (2533 White Settlement Rd/(817)
332-0357/Mon-Sat 11-10/No reservations/No credit cards/$)


The Balcony. Perched in the second story of a shopping center. The Balcony serves well-prepared but not
extraordinary food. Standouts are the onion soup, a red snapper prepared with crab, lobster, and a subtle mushroom
sauce, and a pleasant veal dish served with Wisconsin cheese, (6100 Camp Bowie Blvd/(8I7) 73l-3719/Lunch: Mon-Fri
11:30-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11/Reservations/MC, V, AE/$$$>


Le Bistro. French style in Fort Worth, a stone’s throw from the Kimbell, An impressive wine rack, subtle
Gallic decor, but sometimes rather routine work in the kitchen. Good assorted hors d’oeuvres and an authentic French
onion soup, a real treat Take your chances with the entrees, however – the French on the menu is better than the
French in the food. (3322 Camp Bowie/(8l7) 332-5102/ Brunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2, Dinner: Tue-Sat 5:30-9:30/
Res-ervations/MC. V/$$$)


Carriage House. One of the oldest names in Fort Worth dining, the Carriage House is not the wonder it once
was, but it still has its moments It’s a meal of ups and downs: fine Old-plantation-style service But in a drab
setting; excellent appetizers (have their splendid smoked salmon) but miserable soups; a fine Chateaubriand (beef
dishes are their specialty) but served with canned peas and carrots. (5236 Camp Bowie/(817) 732-2873/Lunch:
Sun-Fri 11-2: Dinner: Daily 6-11/Reservations/MC, V, AE/$$$)


Cattleman’s. A famous Texas name that still delivers, and still from its original location right in the heart
of the stockyards. The steaks are the thing here and they’re terrific – you can watch them being cooked on the
grills at the end of each dining room. Lots of other options, ranging from calf fries (“Mountain Oysters”) to
lobster and spaghetti. (2458 N Main/(817)624-3945/Mon-Fri 11 a.m -10:45p.m . Sat 4-10:45p.m., closed
Sun/Reserva-tions/AII credit cards/$$)


Old Swiss House. Many claim that this is Fort Worth’s finest.Certainly a Fort Worth favorite – the Kaufmann
familyhas been serving fine continental cuisine here for manyyears Delightful veal dishes (the St. Moritz is rich
andsatisfying) and a daily fresh seafood special. Great littlecomplimentary cheese rolls and a lovely Boston
lettucedinner salad. Not a particularly distinctive place, morecomfortable than classy. And the service can
seemhurried. (5412 Camp Bowie/(817) 738-8091 / Mon- Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat till 10:30. closed SunlResenations/MC.
V.AE. DC/$$$)


Recipe

Viva Maxine

“With Adelante,” says Maxine Oest-erling, its owner and creator, “I really wanted to make a statement about what
Mexico is. I mean, I grew up in San Antonio, I come from a large and probably crazy Mexican family, and I thought
people in Dallas should have a taste and a sight of something authentically Mexican.”

So, before Adelante opened in April 1976, Maxine scouted Mexico for folk art – glassware, pottery, woodcarvings and
metal sculpture, as well as handmade embroidered dresses. For the unique and delicious Mexican dishes that
Dallasites have come to love, Maxine scouted her own aunts. Some usual Mexican restaurant fare and practices she
ruled out peremptorily: no hard-to-eat crisp tacos “filled with that pink dogfood-looking meat,” no canned beans or
canned chili sauce, no frozen foods – not even a freezer on the place! On the combination nachos, for example, the
vegetables crunch with freshness, the beans were cooked on the premises and taste like it and the cheese is real.

The cheesecake with praline sauce, a runaway favorite, lies in the province of chef Walter Williams, who sometimes
makes batches of two or three at a time – and it’s a knockout.

Preheat oven to 250°. Mix together and beat until lumps of cream cheese disappear:



2 T. cornstarch

8 T. flour

Dash of salt

1/4 t. almond extract

1 T. vanilla

3-8 oz. packages cream cheese, softened and cut in chunks

1 egg

8 T. sour cream

1 T. melted butter

Beat until stiff:

5 egg whites

8 T. sugar



Fold egg whites into the cream cheese mixture. Pour into graham cracker crust. Bake for 2 hours. Remove from oven
and refrigerate. Serve cold with warm or cold praline sauce. To make sauce:



1 box light brown sugar

1 box dark brown sugar

1 T. vanilla

1 1/2C. milk

1/2 stick butter

1 1/2 C. Karo syrup

1 C. chopped pecans (optional)



Mix all ingredients in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce heat: simmer for a few
minutes. Add pecans, if desired. Leftover sauce makes a fine topping for ice cream.

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