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Travel THE CHATEAU OF YOUR SMILE

By Ralph H. Peck |

Where we could pick out fresh moose tracks on a washed-out dirt road, we let our horses munch on all the weeds in sight. We were on trail in the Reserve, a wild habitat at Quebec’s Chateau Montebello resort, 46 miles east of Ottawa. I was the sole member of our group who’d sat a horse recently. The others were feeling their kinks, but they were happy vacation kinks, soon unkinked in the sauna and outdoor swimming pool.

The Chateau Montebello is a sports complex of spring-fed lakes and forests and manicured gardens unmatched in North America. Its history-book enchantments hark back to Canada’s French roots. In this salubrious setting, each of us had time for shared experiences and contemplative quietude, which suits the often advertised (but too seldom realized) dream of a relaxing vacation.

In land spread, the Chateau Montebello probably couldn’t be anywhere else but in Canada, which is second only to the Soviet Union in size. The private enclave sprawls over 67,500 acres in the foothills of the Laurentian Mountains. That’s 105 square miles. The Chateau was opened to the general public only six years ago, so it’s a comparatively new tourist destination. From 1930 to 1971, it was a private club, and before 1930, a Seigniory – a majestic land grant from the King of France (dated 1674).

During the Chateau’s tenure as a private retreat, it was known as the Seigniory Club, an unabashedly plush membership-only hangout for millionaires. The main lodge, the biggest log cabin in North America, showcases Scandinavian solid timber carpentry, the only example I’ve seen outside Northern Europe. As we entered the lobby, I could hardly take my eyes off the place long enough to sign in.

The lobby is immense. About five stories high, it’s beamed with whole round logs. Timbered mezzanines wrap around the vast interior space. As a centerpiece, a stone fireplace as big as a castle keep towers through the ceiling. Five hearths were ablaze when we arrived. Despite the magnitude of the public room, it’s cozy with deep-pillowed sofas and chairs and richly hued carpets. “I guess we can say the place is rustic with class,’’ a companion observed. Without a doubt. I’d rank the log chateau among the world’s ten most beautiful hotels.

More polished wood carries the theme in guest rooms. Dark beams stand out against creamy plaster. I occupied a large, high-ceilinged, twin-bedded room that cost $57.50 per night single, $80.50 double, full American Plan (all meals included). Roomy beds and quality furnishings assure solid comfort.

The only problem I encountered at the Chateau Montebello was in choosing what to do, and when. I immediately signed up to go horseback riding daily on the manicured bridal paths and in the wilderness. There are plenty of spirited or gentle horses, English and Western saddles. Beginners usually go out in “posses” with instructors, but experienced riders may take to the trails alone.

In the Chateau’s uncounted lakes, bass and freshwater salmon are fighting and wily. Indian guides do the paddling, taking anglers to the best fishing holes. The resort has its own hatchery to replenish the lakes, since fish don’t breed in spring-fed waters, I’m told. To get around that, oxygen is removed from the lakes by chemicals every three years. Older fish (not as tasty or challenging to anglers) are skimmed off and recycled as animal feed and fertilizer. Fingerlings then are let loose. If you like, the Chateau’s chefs will prepare and serve your catch to order.

The golf course is all hill and dale; you can even tee-off from a rugged cliff on one hole. If you’ve never tried them, mountainous courses are good tests for golfers since the winds blow in unexpected gusts, and perspectives can be ornery. The Chateau’s club house and pro shop are top notch, too. I had a couple of very sassy Bloody Marys on the terrace with a view, not that the green hills weren’t enough to get high on.

I tried my hand at archery for the first time at the Chateau. We also shot skeet, and swam, and played tennis. Sports at Chateau Montebello are tempting in all seasons. In winter, cross-country skiing is the rage. There’s sleighing in horse or husky-drawn sleds, ice skating, hockey, curling, snow-shoeing, ice fishing, and more. For hunters, there’s an open season on moose and small game.

The Chateau Montebello also has diversions for the sedentary. The lobby and mezzanines are replete with gift shops and boutiques full of choice buys. By mid-afternoon, the elegant Cafe Habitant bar and lounge gets busy. After dinner, it’s open till all hours for dancing nightly, except Sunday.

Food at the Chateau Montebello has continental flair. The Quebecois dishes are worthy, as are the wines. In the main dining room, a massive stone fireplace is flanked by 30-foot antique totem poles from the Canadian Northwest. Smaller, more intimate rooms are open for breakfast and snacking. A concert grand, which Eddie Duchin played as a regular at the log chateau (then the Seigniory Club) sets the tone at festive dinners.

The log chateau and two other huge log structures were built in 1930. The construction technology used in the remote Quebec outpost made headlines at the time. More than 3,500 workers (many Scandinavian) were employed on the project. A temporary railroad spur had to be built to transport more than 10,000 red cedar logs to the site. That’s more than 40 miles of timber. The principal investor was a visionary American, who later sold his interest to Canadian Pacific. Although the project was grandiose, it was completed in only three months.

The Seigniory Club kept its privacy until Canadian Pacific purchased it and opened the doors to travelers. Only 275 guests can be accommodated, so reservations are a must.

I can hardly wait to go back to Chateau Montebello. It’s a vacation retreat with style, grandeur and bucolic pleasures. The joys of fresh piney nature are there to be discovered, as are sports and just plain unwinding. At the Chateau Montebello, Canadian Pacific has preserved the socially registered delights. That’s rare these days.



For additional information on Chateau Montebello. write to:

Société d’aménagement de l’Outaouais

768, boul St-Joseph

C.P. 666, Hull, Québec

Att: Guy Hotte, Agent de développement touristique

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