Food and Spirits DINING OUT

Hello, Deli



If you’d awakened on a Sunday morning a year ago with a craving for lox and bagels, you’d likely have had some searching to do. Then came the latest influx phase in that curious process called the Easternization of Dallas: Kosher Cuisine comes to town. If the current trend holds its course, you’ll wake up on a Sunday morning a year from now, hop in the Pontiac, and drive-thru for a Lox McBagel.

Before proceeding any further in this survey of Southern Nouveau Jewish Foods, it is only fair to say first that I am not kosher. My grandmother never fixed me a bowl of kasha varnishkes. I never watched my mother make matzoh. I used to wonder whether a gefilte fish was bigger than a sardine. I now have my feelings and my favorites in kosher cuisine, but in a strict sense, these opinions are about as legitimate as a bacon sandwich on the Sabbath. I am, indeed, a shaigetz. And this is strictly a gentile’s point of view. But some of my best friends, as they say . . . and to them I am indebted.

The Dallas wave began when the sign went up on Northwest Highway brashly proclaiming “Everybody’s Kosher.” The marketing intent was obvious: kosher foods for one and all, regardless of race, color, creed, etc. The entryway to Everybody’s Kosher through the spotless, odorless mock subway car lets you know exactly what this is all about: New York City comes to Preston Center. Authenticity is not its forte. Our waitress (a blonde-haired shikseh who wouldn’t know a knish if she sat on one) furthered that image. When we ordered the lox on bagel, she grimaced, “Our electric bagel slicer is broken so I’ll have to slice it by hand. No guarantees.” When she brought the chocolate egg cream, she said, “You better taste this first to see if it’s okay because I made it myself.” When we inquired as to which of the various cheesecakes might be the freshest, she replied, “I don’t know. They don’t put a date on them.” Everybody’s Kosher, like each of the places visited, has its strengths and weaknesses. Recommended: Chicken and matzoh ball soup – the best version of this kosher standard that we tasted, tangy broth and not-too-heavy, not-too-starchy matzoh. Kishke – a kind of matzoh meal stuffing, the only sample, oddly, of this traditional Jewish side dish that we found, and a respectable rendition it is. Chocolate egg cream – despite the waitress’ foreboding, this (Brooklyn’s answer to the chocolate soda) was a very good one. Not recommended: Lox on bagel – they didn’t have the personally preferred Nova Scotia lox (heavily smoked), only the standard salty lox (and salty it was), the bagel was hard, and the cream cheese was whipped. Kasha- another kosher side dish standard (made primarily with groats), this version was for some reason fried (and oily) and for some reason mixed with grilled onions and for those reasons not very good. Chopped liver – suffice it to say that it looked greenish. And tasted greenish. [Oops. Just as this magazine went to press. Everybody’s Kosher folded. Never mind.]



Bagelstein’s, on Spring Valley Road near Coit Road, was the next instance of Kosher Clever to open its doors. Actually Bagelstein’s, except for the name, is a fairly straightforward deli and bagelry, an operation without all the elaborate trappings of its counterparts, and so feels a bit more down to earth. It’s also a family-and-friends outfit, and that aspect adds to the appeal. The menu, too, is much less extensive. Recommended: The bagels – true to its name, this place makes outstanding fresh bagels of several kinds (garlic, salt, pumpernickel, etc.), perfect semi-hard crust, perfect chewiness inside. Chopped liver – a very smooth, meaty version, the best we tasted. Bauer’s Bavarian Mints – no, not a plug for the family business, these unrelated chocolate wonders just happen to be fantastic. Not recommended: The chocolate egg cream – because they don’t have them. When we ordered one, the owner laughed, “Hey, we’re not that New Yorky.”



Trumpeted by a barrage of catchy radio ads. Bagel Nosh (Preston Road at Forest) is the latest Kosher-for-Dallas arrival. The 34th in a young and enormously successful national chain (the original being in Manhattan, number 35 slated for North-Park), Bagel Nosh (“nosh” means “snack,” more or less) is the furthest extension of Deli Today. Laced with latticework, antiques, mirrors, and plants, Bagel Nosh is almost too cheery to stomach. But the upset is eased considerably by what are surprisingly good (considering the chain affiliation) and reasonably priced foods. Again, there was nothing “authentic” about our rosy-cheeked waitress (“Is everything all right, y’all?”), but she was obviously well-trained in the great national chain tradition. Recommended: Lox on bagel – the best (by far the best) lox we tasted, firm, smoky Nova Scotia on a very good (and very big) bagel, marred only, again, by whipped cream cheese. At the take-out counter, these lox, unlike the timid, pre-sliced offerings at the other places, were displayed in big, tempting, whole-fish slabs. Kasha var-nishkes – kasha with noodles (though not the traditional bow-tie noodles), hot, flavorful, wonderful. Chocolate cheesecake – a thick, rich cheesecake with a thin topping layer of fudgey chocolate, a unique and successful variation. Not recommended: Potato salad – cubed potatoes with a pre-fab taste. Potato knish – a very odd, crispy, fried version, shaped with a hole in the middle like a donut, not at all like a normal knish.



The New Kosher. But, ah, for the real thing, for kosher without 1977 stamped all over it. Phil’s Delicatessen (Oak Lawn near Lemmon) has taken some bad raps over the years – and, true, you may on occasion spot a touch of mold on an onion roll or a cockroach (but a little one) on the floor – but Phil’s is the real thing and Phil’s is fine by me. Instead of hanging plants there are Menorahs for sale on the shelves. Instead of a high school smiler behind the counter, there is a stocky, rumpled woman who barks, “Ya want lox to take home, we got lox to take home. Ya wanna eat it here, we got lox to eat here. Whatever ya want.” And, usually, the whatever is very good. Recommended: Hot pastrami on rye – if there’s a better hot pastrami sandwich in town, I’ve yet to find it. Potato pancakes (with applesauce) – a great treat, and these were the most flavorful we found. Fried krep-lach – sort of a kosher version of what the Chinese would call fried meat dumplings and the Italians would call toasted ravioli, except these may be better than either. Not recommended: Bagels – the new wave people do a better, fresher job in this category. Chicken and matzoh ball soup – the matzoh is literally the size of a tennis ball. There’s no room left in a cup for the soup.

But it’s real. So there we are in Phil’s, munching on the best dill pickles in Dallas, thinking how kosher it all is, when a woman in the booth behind, in her best Texas twang, says, “Hey, Donna Sue, they got matzoh ball soup here. I reckon this must be a Jewish restaurant.” Oy.

– David Bauer



Newcomers



Bellmaster. Can haute cuisine survive in far North Dallas? Open since March under new management after being closed for a year, the Bellmaster is making a noble stand against some formidable adversaries. There are the liquor laws, which means shelling out the nominal “membership fee” for a glass of wine or for one of the liqueur-topped ice-cream desserts. There is the location, the amiable but isolated Carillon Plaza shopping center, which, although just off LBJ, seems far away from everything. Finally, few people appear to know that this jewel of a restaurant exists, and that’s a shame, because it has one of the most competent kitchens in Dallas. With a comfortable dining room, a large semicircular sunken bar and a semi-classical pianist (who is too loudly amplified, however), the surroundings are pleasant and subdued. It’s a small operation, served, as far as we could tell, by only the chef and owner, Joel, a bartender, cocktail waitress and a single waiter, Clyde (of whom more later). Most of the expense and attention clearly goes into the preparation of the food. For starters, the Bellmaster has a memorable creamy oil and vinegar house salad dressing, a prelude to some absolutely stellar entrees. Bursting with butter, adroitly flavored with Grand Marnier, Joel’s chicken kiev is an imaginative variation on a familiar dish. The same holds for beef marchand de vin. Filet of sole was among the dinner entrees offered at lunch, where again you can hardly go wrong. Among the regular lunch entrees, the sherried mushroom sauce converted a humble broiled open steak sandwich into a delicacy. When you go, snap up the lunch special. A hearty, generous portion of vividly seasoned veal parmigiana was on one day, and is worth asking for. The only complaint: mushy, watery onion soup, which isn’t improved a bit by the flame that’s lit under it at the table. Who wants to twiddle his thumbs while the soup plate burns? All in all, however, the Bellmaster’s fare has the spark of genius, and the same can be said for its service. Clyde is quick, unpretentious, funny and inventive. For dessert, get Clyde to whip up his strawberries, brown sugar and cream sauce, rum over ice cream concoction (Strawberries Clyde?). (Carillon Plaza, Preston Rd. at Alphal239-0102/ Lunch 11:30-2:30, Mon-Fri; Dinner 6-10 p.m. Mon-Sat, closed Sun/Reservations/AE,BA,MC/ $$$).



La Cave. At a time when novelty has worn thin on the Dallas dining public, La Cave pops open with a refreshing idea whose arrival is most welcome (in fact, overdue) – the wine bar. The notion of fine wines by the glass has been dabbled with locally, but La Cave is the first place to make wines the heart and soul of the operation. The people in charge are great lovers of wine and are serious in their intent to make wines less elusive to the average, untrained palate. The menu lists about a dozen wines (an ever-changing dozen) available by the glass, ranging in price from 89￠ to $1.49. If you like what you taste, you can buy a bottle, either to drink there or to take home. If you don’t like it, try another. In addition, there is a wine cellar, open for browsing, with some 150 additional wines available by the bottle or case – sample a bottle at the restaurant and if you’re pleased, get some to take home. The emphasis is on “good value wines,” with excellent selections (mostly French) in the $3-$6 per bottle range, though prices range from $2.30 to $300. And the prices are competitive with retail liquor stores, meaning none of the 200-300 percent markup found in most restaurants. But man does not live by wine alone. Whet your thirst with a selection of splendid cheeses (try the Morbier), casse-croutes (the traditional French bar sandwich of ham or salami on a small sliced loaf), an elaborate Nicoise sandwich, a wonderfully rich pate, or a fabulous terrine that rates with the city’s finest. (2926 N. Henderson just off Cen. Expwy. / 826-2190/Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat till 1 a.m. / No reservations/MC, BA/$)



Javier’s, The proximity of this little restaurant to the Park Cities – it’s just across the tracks at the upper end of Cole – is only one of the things it’s got going for it. Tucked into a row of shops in the former home of Mazo’s Pub, it has built-in atmosphere akin to the restaurants in what is coming to be known as the McKinney Avenue Renaissance. Further, it’s unique in its cuisine. The sign out front says “Gourmet Mexicano” and, for the most part, the claim is justified. Not a taco or an enchilada in sight. And instead of tostados, you can start with a basket of fried pork skins, move on to a bowl of excellent ceviche or a Mexican cactus salad, followed by Garlic Shrimp Guaymas or Red Snapper a la Vera-cruzana. All the fish dishes we tried were superb. The Asada Javier, an eight-ounce steak smothered in shallots, peppers, and tomatoes, was tasty and well-prepared but the Alambre de Filete was just another shish kebob. For desert try the luscious mango custard or Peaches en Almibar. There’s also a scalded milk desert called Ohongos Zaoranos that is, well, rather odd. Overall, a bright, promising place, tastefully decorated with antiques and period photographs and staffed by a group of cheerful, efficient waiters, one of whom sings and plays the guitar on weekends. (4912 Cole Avenue/521-4211/5:30-11:30 Wed-Mon/MC,AE/$$).



Pierre’s. Set in a remodeled private house on the south shore of Bachman Lake, Pierre’s is something of a family operation. Owner Pierre Fontaine, a restaurateur who’s just recently returned to the Dallas scene, greets many obviously loyal former customers by first name as he moves from table to table. His wife serves as hostess, while a young Fontaine busses tables. The rooms are small, but the atmosphere cozy rather than cramped. The food is good but pricy, and on a recent weekend visit soon after Pierre’s opened, service got slower and slower – in spite of a traffic jam of waiters, wine stewards and bus boys, who in all eagerness kept refilling the water glasses and restocking the butter dish. It took 20 minutes to get the hors d’oeuvres on the table when the restaurant was almost deserted and 30 minutes to get the check when it was almost full. As for the food, none of the portions was really generous, but everything was well-prepared. Appetizers are attended to with care, particularly the crab claws garnished with scallions and stuffed mushrooms. The inch-and-a-half-thick New York sirloin was inspiring till the last bite, although it was small for the price. Its mushroom sauce was simply delicious. The chef, previously at the Old Warsaw, was no less a master at seafood, and his subtle sauce for the Red Snapcused, like its predecessor, of running the city as if it owned it.

The three spheres have titular heads – Mayor Bob Folsom, Chamber of Commerce chairman Junk Food

The Hole Truth



In 1952, I failed third grade, but I learned about Commies, Ike, Polio, and Donuts. The last came in the form of a door-to-door product called Spudnuts. The name made me think they were made of potatoes, but reflecting on the taste, I’m sure it was polyurethane foam and corn syrup.

My next meaningful relationship with donuts was much more pleasant. It took place in a Temple of the Doughy Arts on Ross Avenue that may have been Southern Maid’s first factory. As you munched away on donuts, ice cream, and other gooey stuff you were entertained by a juke box that featured a miniature mechanical band of little rubber musicians that jiggled away as Georgia Gibbs or Theresa Brewer implored you to put another nickle in …. I always did.

Donuts. Depression days staple, backbone of the Red Cross, treasure at the end of Salvation Army soup lines, the mission of valiant secretaries on their morning run. Donuts seem to have no recorded history, so I’ll make one up.

The donut was originally sold at county fairs by wandering merchants. They have holes so it’s easier to carry them on sticks. That way the merchant could keep track of his inventory. They’re called “dough nuts” because they’re made of dough – Really? I didn’t know that – and because they have eight sides like metal nuts. (You thought it was for people who were crazy about dough, didn’t you?) Enough.

The modern donut has become the foundation of many fast food empires – Winchell’s, Tastee, Dunkin – all of which have a wide range of goops, jellies, and consistencies that appear to be right out of a decorator’s wall-texture sample book. Having tried most of the spiffy new franchises and been disillusioned, I was pleased to discover, at 11 o’clock one night, Lone Star No. 12, Mockingbird at Greenville. These guys are the Dukes of Donuts. Jim Ingram’s “Moon Rocks” pack 40 percent eggs into French cruller dough which blows up to about the size of your wrist and is filled with two blasts from the vanilla cream pump and is covered with chocolate. A real bunch-o’-munch to get you through the late late show.

Old No. 12 is a tiny shop, family-run, with two fresh fries daily. They push the hot stuff, and it’s the best I’ve had. (I’ll get letters on this.)



– George Toomer

Spirits

The Pursuit of Happiness



Happiness is bubbling over in our local pubs and restaurants. In fact, it’s getting easier to find a happy hour than it is to avoid one. But there are all kinds of happy hours, from the ecstatic to the melancholy. There are good deals and ripoffs, good whiskey and rotgut. Here’s what to expect locally in your pursuit of the ever-illusive something for nothing.

The deals. If an establishment wanted to deceive you, the easiest way to do it would be with the two-drinks-in-one-glass deal. “We don’t do it here,” claims one downtown bartender, “but I’ve worked at places that heavy-poured.” Heavy-pouring is givingjust enough over a shot to be distinguishable from a single, but still well short of a double. A local bartendress says that any place that does it is crazy: “Just think about it. Happy hours are for regular customers.” Since most places use bar guns now, it’s as hard to see what you’re getting as it is to count cards in Las Vegas with a mixed deck dealer. But, relying on a taste test, I have no reason to suspect the doubles I sampled at Baby Doe’s, the Currency Club, Daddy’s Money, or Magoo’s.

A spinoff of the double is two drinks for the price of one, such as offered at Mariano’s, Pepe Gonzales, the Executive Inn and Casa Del Sol in Fort Worth. It’s not a good deal if you are alone. Most places will bring your drinks one at a time and charge for every other drink, but it’s easy to lose track that way. And if they set you up with two at a time, people will talk. I haven’t ordered two drinks at a time since I ordered two Wild Turkeys on a Frontier flight from Denver, only to find that my seatmate was a Mormon missionary starting a two-year tour of duty.

The best, most convenient and easiest to keep up with deal is the good old half-price drink program observed by Ports o’ Call and Montana Mining Company. Or, whether half price or not, cheap drinks like the 75c shot at Ichabod’s or the two-bit beer at J. Alfred’s. The most popular gimmick among the establishments is the reduced price hour. Some of the reductions are meaningful, such as Brennan’s ($1.80 to $1); others, like the Waterworks in Fort Worth ($ 1.75 to $ 1.40), are merely tokenism.



The drinks. Bar whiskey has not improved much since invented by the weird sisters with their legendary concoction of eye of newt and toe of frog, wool of bat and tongue of dog. Kentucky Choice enraged my taste buds. Bellows shriveled my tonsils. Echo Springs should be obtainable by prescription only. But a few places, such as Brennan’s (Early Times), Arthur’s (Old Crow), Bagatelle (Antique) and Ichabod’s (Kentucky Tavern), offer bar whiskey drawn from somewhere above the bottom of the barrel.

On the average, Scotch drinkers have a better deal. “Most Scotch drinkers take their drinks with water or on the rocks,” advises a Greenville Ave. dispenser. “You can’t disguise the taste like you can with a lot of other drinks. And Scotch drinkers are just more particular.’’ Even so, much bar Scotch served in the area has yet to appear on anyone’s top ten, like McDuff’s, which seems to turn up wherever you encounter Bellows or Echo Springs. A Scotch drinker’s bonanza is waiting, however, at Arthur’s (Dewar’s) and Chelsea Corner (Johnny Walker Red).

Martini lovers can’t miss with the $1.25 special at Arthur’s, perhaps the best martini in town. Baby Doe’s serves happy hour martinis in pint fruit jars ($ 1.75). It’s an awesome sight, but really just a double with lots of ice and two huge (hard to get at) olives. In Margaritaville, Mariano’s serves two seven-ouncers for $1.65, and Pepe Gonzales a 17 1/2-ounce glassful for $1. H.P. Cassidy’s features small pitchers of margaritas, salty dogs, pina coladas, screwdrivers or Cuba libres for $1.75 – for couples only. (I couldn’t tell whether they were trying to discourage singles or threesomes.)



The eats. This is a sensitive area. The first problem lies in the fact that free hors d’oeuvres as advertised are much more extensive than free hors d’oeuvres as served. And free food is often well-con-cealed, so be sure to ask.

Hot hors d’oeuvres are generally served when the mood hits, so it’s strictly feast or famine for happy hour drop-ins. Cold snacks are more dependable, but not necessarily good. Most of the popcorn now served in area bars tastes like it was purchased at the Palace Theater’s going-out-of-business sale. Best bets are the Spanish peanuts at Bagatelle, tostados at Mariano’s, and nachos at Saturday’s. Dieters will love the raw vegetables at Ichabod’s. And if you are willing to pay a little, you can do well at the 15￠ shrimp and oyster bar at the Currency Club.



The times. Mariano’s has 48 1/2 hours of happiness per week. So many, in fact, that they call them “happy days.” But the record is held by that friendly neighborhood bar, Chelsea Corner, with 85￠ drinks served 54 1/2 hours per week. Andrew’s is close behind, with 52 1/2 hours of 90￠ servings. Ten hours a week is the shortest, at Brennans, Arthur’s, Bagatelle, Ichabod’s, Ports o’ Call and Friday’s. Saturday bargains are offered by Andrew’s, Chelsea Corner and Daddy’s Money, but not by Saturday’s. Happy hours are universally under way at 5 p.m. Monday through Friday. In all my searching, the only thing I could not find was a happy hour that lasted just an hour.

A happy heart, it seems, is not necessarily a cheerful giver. Waitresses generally feel that there is abuse amidst all this happiness. Most feel tips should be based upon the regular price of drinks, not-the happy hour price. “Some people come in here for cheap drinks and get to acting cheap,” says Helen, a 38-year-old grandmother. “How would you like to work your tail off and not get nothing out of it?” I could only say, in all honesty, that I would not like it.

– Tom Peeler

Recommended Restaurants



These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit then that we recommend all of them highly.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid- preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general price range.



$ – Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ – Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ – Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $10 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ – Very expensive.



Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC – Master Charge / BA – BankAmericard / AE – American Express / DC – Diner’s Club / CB – Carte Blanche / “All Credit Cards” indicates that all the above are accepted.



Continental



Arthur’s. Once a rustic steakhouse. now a shimmering beef palace. Steak remains the pillar of the operation, but other options abound: lamb chops, veal chops, and calf’s liver to name a few favorites. American wines only – an intriguing and imaginative touch. Warm and classy with one of Dallas’ best bars. Live entertainment (1000 Campbell Centrel361-8833/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight/ Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

Bagatelle. The charm of this lovely but low-key restaurant stems directly from its gracious owner/host Veal has always been the specialty of the house – try the veal escalopes “Vieux Chalet.” The shrimp du chef (in a garlic sauce) is a delight for starters A cozy bar with good jazz Nice Sunday brunch The Plaza Cafe is a more casual offshoot of the same kitchen, featuring a fountainside patio for outdoor dining from a varied light-continental menu. (One Energy Square, Greenville at University1692-8224IBagatelle: Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Sun brunch 10:30-2:30, Dinner Sun-Thur6-10,Fri& Sat till 11, bar till 2; Plaza: Lunch Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30, Dinner Mon-Sat 6-midnight/ReservationslMC,BA.AE,DCI$$-$$$)

Le Bistro. Such a lovely, lovely restaurant. But such a time they have trying to get things right in the kitchen. There is not a more charming place in Dallas to enjoy French foods than this gracious old two-story house But while waiting for your dinner, cross your fingers – Le Bistro is never bad. but often just isn’t as good as you expect it to be, its problem from the beginning But opt for the simpler dishes, enjoy the surroundings, finish with a cold almond souffle, and you’ll leave with a smile. (3716 Bowser, just off Oak Lawn/528-4181/Tue-Sun 6-10 p.m., except Fri & Sat till 11 pm., closed Mon/Reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$$)

Brasserie. The most elegant “coffee shop” in town. In the wee hours of the morning (they’re open 24 hours), stop by to treat yourself to Dallas’ best Eggs Benedict – sprinkled with truffles (at 3 a.m. they bother?), or a sandwich of sirloin on crisp, buttery French bread During the other hours, especial ly lunch, the fare is mostly overpriced and undistinguished. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard 748-5454124 hours, seven days a week/ No reservations/MC,BA,AE, DC/$$)

Calluaud. One of Dallas’ most civilized restaurants Set in a small frame house,with a casual yet intimate atmosphere complemented by consistently fine French foods Superb soups and excellent omelettes; and desserts not to be missed: simple and wonderful fruit tarts (try the apple) and exquisite profiteroles The imaginative dinner menu changes frequently but has provided such items as a perfectly prepared fresh salmon steak and roast pork in a prune sauce. Prices are a bargain for the quality. It’s easy to get hooked on this place. (2917 Fairmount off Cedar Springsl742-8525ILunch: Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., Dinner: Mon-Fri 6.30-70.30, Sat till 11. closed Sun/ ReservationslMC,BA.AEI$$$)

Chablis. An odd little French restaurant, difficult to put your finger on – the style is neither elegant nor quaint. But the food, while in some instances overpriced, is decidedly good. At dinner, a tasty complimentary rillettes, a fine pepper steak, and a subtly glazed roast duckling are highlights. Lunch leans to lighter regional specialties and sandwiches. Light flaky bread (with a very “French” flavor) and the sweetest richest chocolate mousse in town. (120 Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/522-0910l Lunch: Mon-Fri 11 30-2:30: Dinner: Mon- Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat till midnight: closed Sun/Reservations on weekendslMC, BA,AE,DCIt$$)



D REVISITS

Chateaubriand. This restaurant has more going for it than its somewhat overdressed elegance would suggest (as one of our party said, “It’s like dining in the lobby of a hotel”). All too often, when restaurants attempt a menu of the range and variety of Chateaubriand’s, they fall all over themselves. Can a restaurant really do everything from sweetbreads to frog legs to lobster to veal parmigiana well? Should it even try? Chateaubriand gives it a try and apparently succeeds, though not without occasional disappointments. The toumedos Rossini, for example, was excellent beef, but the first attempt at medium rare was decidedly on the medium-well side (the second on the rare side), and it was served with no sign of the pate that makes it “Rossini” and with a bearnaise sauce that tasted strongly of canned bouillon. No matter, the marinated crab fingers that preceded it were superb, and the fresh strawberry pie that followed was excellent. But best of all, Chateaubriand serves very good Greek items – the pastitsa and dolma appetizer is a standout, and the “Greek veal” is tender, delightful veal in a pleasant lemon-butter-oregano sauce. Service is attentive (though somewhat bemused by our attempts to get the tournedos cooked right), and if you dine before the band starts playing you can have a pleasant meal. Lunch is also wide-ranging, but with the exception of the daily bargain specials, not outstanding There are better continental restaurants in Dallas (with better prices), but Chateaubriand has its own kind of stuffy charm. (2575 McKinney/741-1223/Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-midnight/Reservations/ All credit cards/$$$).



The Chimney. An unpretentious Swiss-Austrian restaurant that specializes in excellent veal, ranging from a simple lemon veal to more extravagant preparations Also one of the few places where you can have venison And for desert, have the excellent home-made cheesecake. At lunch, the fare is strictly ladies’ tearoom, though it’s one of the best of its kind. Attentive service, and a nice atmosphere (if you don’t sit too near the piano) (Willow-creek, 9739 N Cen Expwy at Walnut Hilll369-6466/Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2, Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30, Sun brunch 11-2/Reservations/MC.AE.DCI$$$)

Ewald’s. An inspired collection of veal dishes (Veal “Palm Beach” with Westphalian ham. hearts of palm, and beamaise sauce) have given Ewald his loyal following But he also serves a cognac-flamed pepper steak that ranks with the best in town A smattering of other continental dishes (with a Swiss flavor) and a limited seafood selection A small, plain -in fact bland -dining room (5415 W Lovers Lnl357-1622IMon-Fri 6-10:30. Sat 6-11 IReserva-tionslMC.BAI$$$)

Marcel’s. Marcel is a charming host in the classic French tradition; it’s that French feeling that has made this a long-popular restaurant That and a complete table d’ note dinner for only $6.50 – not the finest French cuisine in the city but certainly the best priced Beef Wellington is the house specialty, but the real star may be the cop au vin Relaxed, quiet dining. (5721 W Lovers Lnl358-2103 ISun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat tilt midnight. Closed Monl Reservations/MC.BA.AE.DCI$$)

D REVISITS The Grape. Lower Greenville Avenue has been virtually im- passible for several months now, thanks to the widening of the streets, but despite the single-lane, one-way traffic and the fair chance of getting creamed by a bulldozer, a steady stream of regulars still finds its way to The Grape. They’ve added a few new posters since our last visit, but otherwise it’s the same cozy, unpretentious, thoroughly dependable little restaurant. The beef dishes continue to impress, with the tournedos béarnaise and boeuf a la mode being special favorites. The lunches are becoming more varied and adventurous. Among the latest delights are the escargots aux champignon and omelette aux crevettes chinoise (shrimp, mushrooms and bean sprouts). For those who want to break the mushroom soup habit, there’s a delicious potage au Tripoli, a creamy chickpea soup with herbs and spices. Do-it-yourselfers can choose from an impressive array of cheeses and a wine list that is both reasonably priced and full of surprises. Still hard to beat for the money. (2808 Greenville Avenuel823-0133/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner Tue-Sun, 6- 70:30, open later on Fri & Sat lor wine and cheese only/No reservations/No credit cardsl$$)

Mr. Peppe. Some say it’s the best French restaurant in the city. Others cite inconsistencies and argue Regardless, there is a friendly intimacy and refreshing informality at work here – a warm, dark, and cozy setting. Wonderful rack of lamb, superb pepper steak. And the pastries – owner/chef Albert’s specialties – are almost too good to be true. (5617 W Lovers Lnl352-5976/Mon-Sat 6-10IReserva-tionslMC,BA,AE,DCI$$$)

Old Warsaw. The “new Old Warsaw” – after some tasteful remodeling of the interior and some successful revamping of the menu – is on the upswing. The place is less gilded, more engaging. The new_ menu is less erratic, more interesting. New treats: a pate of duck, crème de Cresson (puree of watercress), and a splendid Cote de Veau. Also a nightly selection of “Nouvelle Cuisine,” the reduced-calorie style popularized by Paul Bocuse. The prices were not remodeled – still very expensive – but now the paying is less painful. (2510 Map/e/528-0032IDaily 6-11. Sat till midnightlResenationslMC.BA,AE,DCI$$$$)Patry’s. When the Patry family is at work, you can’t go wrong. Start with the poireaux farcis (stuffed leeks) or the delicate, light, near-perfect vichyssoise, then have any of the superb entrees: a wonderful coq au vin, a filet in a flawless bearnaise. or their splendid escalope of veal The place itself is a bit sterile except for their terrific – and very French – little bar. (2504 McKinney/748-3754l Tue-Fri, 6-11, Sat till 11:30IResenationslMC,BA,AE.DCI $$$).

Pyramid Room. The classiest dining room in Dallas – an aura of affluence and impeccable taste A paragon of service – absolutely professional but without pomposity, including a theatrical sommelier. A dizzying dinner menu of French specialties of the highest order (lunch is less glamorous). The Grand Mamier dessert souffle is a triumph. In sum, Dallas finest restaurant. But even at that, capable of disappointment because it is so expensive. Too expensive. But always a pleasure if you can pay the price. (Fairmont Hotel. Ross & Akard/748-5454ILunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: Dinner: Daily 6-midnight/Reservations/AII credit cardsl$$$$)



Italian



Campisl’s. The sign says “Egyptian Restaurant,” but the place is strictly Italian; carried on in the proud family tradition of papa Carlo Campisi, whose portrait still watches over the proceedings Dallas’ original pizza specialists – and still the best. Or try the platefull of sausage and peppers. Warm (in fact steamy) and wonderful – and always a waiting line to prove it. (5610 E Mockingbird/ 827-03551 Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat till 1 a.m.. Sun noon-midnight)No credit cards. Checks accepted/Reservations for 6 or more/$)

lannf’s. .An undistinguished shopping center facade, an entry lobby tacked with Dallas sports photos and celebrity glossies, and a dining room that’s a vineyard of plastic grapes doesn’t bode well. But lanni’s can surprise you. It’s relaxed and unpretentious – a throwback to simpler dining The waitresses are pros and the kitchen is sound if not stunning And the homemade Italian sausage is as good as any in town (2230 Greenville/826-6161IDaily 5 30-11 p.m IReservationslMC.AE/$$)

II Sorrento. The best Italian food in Dallas in a marvelously hokey setting – like a Hollywood designer’s dream of Venice, complete with strolling musicians and bread vendors. The fettucine Alfredo and the tagliatelle – both prepared at your table – are standouts among the pasta dishes; the veal dishes are crowned by the Marsala and piccata. Be warned that even with a reservation you may be forced to bide time waiting in the bar. (8616 Turtle Creek (North of NW Hwy)/352-8759IDaily 5 30-11. Sat till midnight/Reservations except on Fri & Sat/All credit cardsl$$$)

Italian Pavilion. This overdone (fancy-tacky) dining room atop the LeBaron Hotel seems an unlikely setting for fine Italian dining But fine it can be. Try any of the veal dishes – the saltimbocca in a superb marsaia sauce is, particularly good Excellent appetizers and desserts and an interesting Italian wine list combine to make this a place worth a visit. (LeBaron Hotel, 1055 Regal flow at Carpenter Fwyl634-8550ILunch: Mon-Fri 11-2: Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11 p.m. /Reservations/All credit cardsl$$$)

Lombardi’s. No gimmicks, just a delightfully remodeled old house where they serve excellent Italian food at reasonable prices. The lasagna (the lightest version imaginable) and the saltimbocca are standouts – maybe the best in town The manicotti is made with a crepe-like pasta, the pork parmigiana is an unusual delight and the rich green-noodle fettucine is outstanding. A warning on the minestrone: it is thick and flavorful but stew-like – an appetite killer. And there are occasional lunch-time gaffes such as an overcooked, over-breaded veal cutlet But everyone is eager to please at Lombardi’s; the service is sophisticated and responsive. (2815 McKinney Avel823-6040/Lunch: Mon-Sal 11-2:30; Dinner Mon-Thur 6-10:30, Fri 4 Sal till 11/ Reservations/MCBA.AE/$$$)



D REVISITS

Pietro’s. On a typical night, Pietro’s seems to be the neighborhood Italian restaurant for about half the population of Dallas. Homestyle Sicilian cooking still draws scads of loyal patrons, and although the “No Reservations” policy sometimes causes waits, it’s always worth your while to grab a drink and hang on. Service is friendly and brisk, and the tone of the main dining rooms is charged with the sound of people who know they’re on to a good thing. Who wouldn’t? Surrounded by flashy red and gold walls, seated in a comfortable booth or at an intimate table, you’re served some very good Italian fare It’s best to head straight for the pasta dishes, though Pietro’s veal scallopinialaSiciliano, a generous portion with richly seasoned tomato sauce, is remarkable. The cannelloni verde is well-prepared also, though the besciamella sauce was rather bland And Pietro’s crème caramel is a masterful dessert. (5722 Richmond off Greenville/824-9403/Tue-Thur 5:30-10 p.m., Fri & Sat till 11 p.m./No reservations/No credit cards/$$)

Mario’s. One of few Dallas restaurants to take the sophisticated approach and do so with dignity, with natural elegance. A lonastanding family success, so there is an air of confidence and pride Delicious roquefort-based cheese spread (complimentary), dense and delicious French bread loaves, marvelous tried zucchini. Try the “Frittura Delizie Romana” a barter fried spinach appetizer Entrees (northern Italian specialties) are stylish but not exceptional Splendid wine list. (135 Turtle Creek VillagelS21-113SIDaily 6-11, Sat till midnightlReservationslAII credit cardsl$$$)



Oriental



China Inn. A dependable restaurant with a Cantonese emphasis. Standouts are the sweet-and-sour dishes, the ginger beef, and war sue har (batter-fried shrimp with a “country-style” sauce) Huge eggrolls and excellent homemade almond cookies Low-keyed and comfortable. (6521 E Northwest Hwyl369-7733IMorhFri 11 am-2 p.m. 5-10:30 p.m.; Sat till midnight. Sun 11 a.m. -10:30 pm./Reserva-tions/MC,BA,AE/$$)

Chinese Pavilion. The menu here is identical to that of Hunan, the restaurant that spawned this one. Be adventurous and put yourself in the waiter’s hands For $8 per person you’ll be treated to a multicourse dinner featuring the chef’s Hunan and Szechuan-style specialties And sthe crabmeat and corn soup is a must. (European Crossroads, 2829 W Northwest Hwy/35 7-5 777ISun- Thur 11:30 am -11 p.m., Fri 4 Sat till midnight/Reservations/MC. BA,AEI$$)

Hunan. Currently Dallas’ best Chinese restaurant. The Hunan cuisine that is its specialty is milder than you’ll find in New York, but still potent Have the “pu pu tray” of appetizers, and then you’re on your own – it’s all good (though we recommend Hunan Lamb, Champagne Chicken, and Shrimp with Garlic Sauce). Small and comfortable (5214 Greenville Ave at Lovers Lnl369-4578IMon-Thur 11:30a.m.-11 pm, Fri, Sat&Sun 11-midnight/Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/$$)

Peking Palace. Once Dallas’ Oriental best, but it hasn’t quite kept up with the booming competition. Too many items taste warmed-over, but the Szechuan-style selections are, for the most part, excellent (try the shredded pork with garlic sauce). And the Won Ton soup is the best in town And still the most pleasant dining room of any Dallas Oriental restaurant (4119 Lomo Alto/522-1830/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: Dinner: Mon- Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat till midnight, Sun noon-10.p.m /Reservations on week-endslMC,BA.AEI$$)

Ports O’Call. The menu now docks in many new ports (wiener schnitzel from Germany, steak au poivre from France, etc.), though the featured fare is still mostly Polynesian. And nothing special at that – but then that’s never been the appeal here anyway. The attractions are the lavish (almost ludicrous) dining rooms, the 37th floor view with the “bid-city” feeling, and the exotic rum concoctions in the tiki-god-and-blowfish bar – try the Test Pilot, limit 2 per customer. (Southland Center, 2117 Live Oak/742-2334/Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30: Dinner: Daily 5:30-10:301 Reservations/All credit cardsl$$$)

Royal Tokyo. As far as service and consistency of cuisine are concerned. Royal Tokyo seems to have risen from its period of decline. But it’s not quite the star it once was. Perhaps the competition has forced it to Americanize its menu, because the sauces and seasonings are anything but delicate. A pity, because real Japanese cuisine is among the most subtle in the world. Still a pleasantly-appointed place. Try the shabu-shabu. a variation on sukiyaki (7525 Greenville Avel36B-3304ILunch: Daily 11:30-2, except Sat; Dinner: Mon- Thur 5:30- 11.Fri& Sat till 11:30. Sun 5-10IReservationslMC,BA,AE,DCI$$$)

South China. Quiet and consistent. South China continues to distinguish itself from the ever-increasing hordes of competitors The combination appetizer plate is perhaps the best in Dallas and the Mandarin specialties that follow usually keep up the pace line sizzling rice soup, moo shi pork, beef with green onion and ginger, and tantalizing sweet and sour shrimp. Black bean sauce is a favorite here – try it over the braised chicken and you’ll see why Their new spinoff restaurant, Chu’s in Addison, shows promise of being even better (5424 E Mocking-birdl826-5420ILunch: Daily 11 30-2:30 Sat 4 Sun noon-2:30; Dinner Mon-Thu 5-11, Fri & Sat 5-12, Sun 5-10,1 ReservalionslMC, BA,AEI$$)

Trader Vic’s. One of the best of a variable chain of Oriental-Polynesian restaurants, this one has excellent hors d’oeuvres (try the “Cosmo Tidbit” platter), a fine limestone lettuce salad, and well-prepared entrees. We suggest the curries, the almond duck, lobster Cantonese, or the Indonesian lamb roast Exotic and powerful rum concoctions, (Hilton Inn, 5600 N Cen Expwyl827-3620/Daily 5-11:30 p.m., weekends till midnightlReservationslAll credit rards/$$$)Mexican



Adelante. An odd little spot in an almost secretive behind-the-shopping-center location But once you find it, you’ll surely find your way back. Fantastic and unique Mexican food graced with flair and freshness. Thin, greasetinged tostados made on the spot, nachos buried in fresh relishes, flautas with fabulous guacamole, delicate green chile quiche, and an egg and tortilla dish called “Chilaquiles” – both subtle and exotic. And don’t pass up the unbelievable praline cheesecake. Bar “by membership .” (5934 Royal Lanel691-B301IMon-Thur 11 a.m. 9p.m., Fri&Sattill 10pm., closed Sun/No reservations IMC.BA.AEIS)

El Taxco. Maybe the best dining value in Dallas. Dependable Tex-Mex right down to the refried beans just the way they ought to be – and at very low prices A subtle style with less hot seasonings make it an especially good spot for newcomers to Mexican food. A casual, friendly cafe. (2126 N St. Paul/742-0747IWed-Mon 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m., closed TueINo reservationslMCI$)

Herrara Cafe. Home-cooked Tex-Mex from two odd locations. The ludicrous-looking newer version on Lemmon Avenue serves the same great food as the original adobe hole-in-the-wall on Maple. But at the Lemmon location, quality is not a certainty Visit Maple for good old fat flour tortillas hot off the grill, wonderful burritos, great guacamole. And the menudo is a community tradition. (3902 Maple/ 526-9427 Weekdays 9 a.m.-8 p.m., closed MonINo reservations/No credit cardsIS)

Raphael’s. The ever-present waiting line tells you how good it is But popularity does have its problems – the hustle-bustle can be nerve-wracking and weekends are hopeless But if you can hit a lull in the action, the warm ranch-house atmosphere is lovely And the food will likely be at its best Bypass the Tex-Mex and dive into the specialties: chicken mole, shrimp enchiladas, and chiles rellenos – a dependable favorite And maybe best of all. the carne Tampiquena or the polio Tarnpiqueno – they can make the waiting worth it, (3701 McKinneyl521-9640/Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-10:30p.m., Sat noon-10:30. closed Sun/Reservations Mon-Thur onlylMC,BA.AEI$$)



Greek

Greek Key. A lively and longstanding favorite marked by belly dancing, customer participation, and other revelry. But the kitchen is serious, doing a creditable job of filling the Dallas Greek food void Dolmas, pastitso, spanakopita. moussata (or try the combination plate) Forgo the “Grecian shrimp.” but don’t pass up the baklava delicately seasoned with walnuts and honey, finished off by a demi-tasse of heavy Greek coffee (2903 W Northwest Hwy/358-5 177/ Mon-Sat 11a.m.-2 p.m., closed Sun/All credit cards/Re-servationsl$$)

Goldfinger. More successful as a lively, raucous nightclub than as a restaurant, but Goldfinger does provide some of the city’s best Greek food – a woefully limited aspect of Dallas’ cuisine. So. while you’re clapping and singing with the Greek musicians, try the flaming saganaki. the avgolemeno soup, the shrimp and meat kostas, and the veal venetikia And the dolmas are a must (12905 Cridelle at W Northwest Hwy/350-6983IMon-Fri 11 a.m.-2 a.m.. Sat-Sun 6 p.m.-2 a.m/Reservations/AII credit cardsl$$$)



Indian

India Houm. An authentic representation of Indian cuisine. The uninitiated may find it all a bit exotic – but a culture shock made pleasant by the helpful guidance of the staff (or try the Shahi House Dinner for a broad sampling). Aficionados of the Indian tradition may find the preparation lacking perfection, but with so much to choose from, danger of disappointment is slight. Something is sure to please – or at least to surprise. (5422 E Mockingbird! 823-10001 Lunch Daily 11: 30-2.30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11 /Reservations/All credit cardsl$$)



Southern Specialties



Ceiebration. Some of the homestyle pride seems occasionally to be missing from the homestyle cooking since the expansion of this friendly place But still a good spot for a wholesome meal at a reasonable price. Pot roast is the best of the five entrees Plus big bowls of good family-style-help-yourself vegetables. Beer and wine are available now, but try the apple juice at least once – it’s great. (4503 W Lovers Lnl351-5681IMon-Sat 5:30-11. Sun till 10:30/No reservationslMC.BAI$)



Red Moon Cate. Cozy, charming, almost romantic – a purely pleasant little place The menu has Creole overtones gumbo (the real thing), crawfish, chicken “Jambalaya.” pork chops “Creole ” But perhaps their most winning dish has nothing to do with New Orieans -fettucine that ranks with the best in town Nice fresh seafood specials – they’ve done some wonderful things with trout Open for breakfast, but nothing special, unless coffee is your passion Their chicory version has no peer (4537 Co/e/, 526-5391/Mon-Sai 7-2.30, 6- 10INo reservations/No credit cards/$)



Sonny Bryan’s. Best barbecue in town? You’ll never get a consensus, but this one gets a lot of votes Juicy, juicy stuff in a funky, funky little smokehouse No tables – you eat on individual school desk tops. Beer, no bar (2202 Inwoodl357-7120/Mon-Sat6a.m -6 30p.m., Sun 11-2/No reservations/No credit cardsI$)



Natural Foods



Health Nut. Dallas’ original lull-scale natural foods restaurant – and still a unique institution – is comfortably settled now in its airy and attractive Lovers Lane location, crowned by a lovely sun-terrace room upstairs Good sandwiches, light and imaginative soups, and wonderful salads – a fresh vegetable salad with tahini dressing or. even better, a fresh fruit salad in a delicious lemon-honey dressing A special steamed meal daily (Tuesday is Mexican and Wednesday is Oriental) And, of course, smoothies. (4356 W Lovers Lane/692-1411/Mon-Sat 11 a m-9 pm./No re-servations/MC/$)

Seafood



D REVISITS

Oporto. Maybe nobody expects this land-locked prairie town to have great seafood, but we ought to be able to do better. Oporto is simply the best of a mediocre lot. While it serves excellent oysters and a good, thick gumbo, it tries to disguise the rest of its offerings with sauces that are only passable. Take the crab-stuffed mushrooms served as appetizers, for example. The crabmeat is undoubtedly frozen, for what little taste it possesses is masked by a heavy mixture of herbs. It could, in short, be anything – tasty but not tasting of crab. The sauce problem affects its shrimp curry as well. It’s a potent curry – too potent for the shrimp, more suited for a stronger taste like lamb – but the sauce rapidly becomes unappetizingly gluey. As we’ve said before, stick with the simpler broiled scrod or the nice brook trout meunière. But even these were somewhat overcooked on a recent visit. It’s a shame to have to be negative about Oporto – the place is pleasantly dark, the bar-tending is good and the service has improved tremendously – since there are few alternatives when you want seafood. (2701 McKin-ney near Routh/823-6350IMon-Thur 11 a.m.-10 p.m.,Fri&Saltill 11, closed Sunl No reservations/ MC/I$$)



S & D Oyster Company. A handsomely restored 19th-century livery/grocery building with brick walls and bentwood chairs lending themselves to a mild New Orleans atmosphere. Oysters are the specialty-delicious whether on the half-shell or fried. Also boiled or fried shrimp, a pleasant gumbo, and broiled flounder or snapper. Beer and wine only. A welcome addition to the limited sea fare in town. (2701 McKinney near Routh/823-6350IMon- Thur 11 a.m.-10 p.m.. Fri 4 Sat till 11. closed SunINo reservations/MCI $$)

Delicatessens



Black Forest Austrian-style food – sausages, salamis. coffee cakes, breads, a lovely cold cut platter, and excellent sandwiches. Try the veal sausages with hash browns and black bread, and any of the pastries Excellent selection of German beers and wines. (5819 Blackwell off Northwest Hwy/368-4490IMon-Fri 8 a.m-6 p.m.. Sat till 5 p.m.I No reservationslBAI$)

Kuby’s. Busy and bustling. Excellent homemade sausages (served with hot potato salad or sauerkraut), thick sandwiches (try the pastrami), great pastries, and a soup of the day which is a lunchtime bargain (70￠). A congenial spot with a German accent. (6601 Snider Plazal363-2231IMon -Sat 8:30-2:30. sandwiches till 5:30/Wo reservationslMC – $15 minimum/$)

Walls. A worthwhile stop for displaced New Yorkers and insatiable corned beef fans, though its reputation as the best for kosher-style food in Dallas is earned mainly by default. The kosher standards – gefilte fish, herring in sour cream, cheese blintzes – are very tasty, but the quality of food and service is uneven. Except for the disappointing chopped liver, sandwiches are the best bet. And try the outstanding cabbage soup. (10749 Preston Rdl691-4444IDaily 7:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m.INo reservations/ MC,BA/$S)

Steaks, Burgers, Etc.



Chili’s. A handsome burger joint Good chili, unusual soft tacos of flour tortillas, and, best of all, long, thin, greasy french fries with the skin still on them. Always hopping – you’ll likely wait in line. (7567 Greenville Ave at Meadow Rd/361-4371/Daily 11 a.m.-midnight. Fri & Sat till 2 a.m.I No reservationslMC.BA.AEI$)

The Den. A distinctive spot in the venerable old Stoneleigh Hotel with a convivial clientele of various professional types – like a seasoned Upper East Side bar. Terrific cheeseburgers, a great prime rib sandich. chefs specials. And free popcorn. (2927 Maplel742-7111 /Restaurant: Mon-Fri 6 a.m.-9 p.m. Sat & Sun 6 a.m.-1 a.m.; Bar: Mon-Fri 11 am -midnight, closed Sat & Sun/MC.DC.AE.CBI$$)

The Filling Station. Aptly named – everything here is huge and heavy, frorr the platter of beet nachos (a meal in itself, hardly an appetizer) to the ￥4-pound “Ethyl Hamburger” to the great greasy trench fries. Only the onion rings – more like doughnuts than rings – are substandard, if only because they’re so doughy you can’t taste the onion. It’s a gimmicky, Greenville-Avenue transmogrification of an actual gas station, but the clutter of old gas pumps and signs and a neon Mobil Flying Red Horse is more interesting than most such nostalgic assemblages. Strictly for bar-hoppers – and hungry ones at that (6862 Greenville Ave near Park Lanel691-4488I Tue-Sat 11 a.m.-1 a.m., Sun & Mon till midnightlNoreser-valions/MC.BA.AEIS)

Houlihan’s. With a menu ranging from a hot dog to roast duck and touching on most everything in between, there are no great expectations Which is why Houlihan’s is usually a pleasant surprise for the good – despite the scope, there are lots of hits and few misses Very good omelettes, burgers, quiche: nice salads: and several more ambitious options (stuffed shrimp, baked trout, etc ) A host of rich and gooey desserts and cappuccino – a good spot for midnight munchies (4 NorthPark East/ 361-9426IDaily 11 a.m -1:30 a.m INo reservationslMC.BA, AE.DCI$$)

Ichabod’s. Slick in the Greenville Avenue tradition, but Ichabod’s is nevertheless a very pleasant and dependable place The key to their success is a limited menu of steaks and seafood with nothing so elaborate that the kitchen staff can’t handle it. There are a few nicely imaginative touches, like a “relish tray” of raw fresh vegetables instead of a tired salad. A nice dining area with its own entrance to separate it from the teeming swingles bar, (Old Town, 5500 Greenvillel691-2646ILunch: Mon-Fri11.30-2.30, Dinner daily 6-1 /No reservationslMC.BA.AE.DC,CBI$$)

Kirby’s. Dallas’ original steakhouse and time has only enhanced its appeal. No gimmicks, waitresses of the old school, and good food values. The “special cut” sirloin strip is big and beautiful and the creamy garlic house dressing alone is enough for some fans (3715 Greenville/ 823-7296/ Tue-Sun 5:30-10:30. Fri & Sat till midnightlRe-servationslAII credit cards/$$)

Stoneleigh P. An Oak Lawn favorite and eclectic hangout A restoration of what was long a pharmacy – clever but not Cutesy Provolone cheeseburgers on pumpernickel are the favorite among many goodies. Great magazine rack (browsing encouraged) and fabulous juke box (from Bach to Stones) (2926 Maplel74)-0824IMon-Thur 11 :15-mid-night, Fri & Sat till 1:30 a.m.. Sun 12-12, bar daily till 1 a.m., Fri & Sat till 2INo reservations/No credit cardsI$)

Strictly Ta-Bu. A terrific old neighborhood bar with a mixed bag clientele. The original 1948 decor has been virtually untouched and charms with its classy-tacky effect. Great homemade soups and sometimes great pizza – the kitchen is rather erratic lately. Also burgers, steaks, sandwiches. Live jazz most nights and an occasional free flick. (4111 Lomo AIto/526-9325/Mon-Fri 5 p.m-2 a.m., Sat 6 p.m.-1 a.m/No reservations/MC,BA/$$)

T.G.I. Friday’s. This may be Dallas’ junk food paradise – if junk food means luscious hamburgers (still among the best in town), a munchy concoction called “nacholupas,’ the biggest chef’s salad you’ll ever see. and even rhubarb pie. Good steak bargains; avoid the omelettes. The place is lively as ever, with lots of swingles and a little of everything else. (Old Town. 5500 Greenville/363-S353/Daily 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. /No reservations/MC.BA.AE/$$)



Mainly For Lunch



Ciro’r Great Sicilian-style pizza and an attractive array of elaborate sandwiches in an airy, old-time corner store at McKinney and Hall The ’wine bar” serves fine wines by the glass, the beers include some nice imports, and there’s a great hard apple cider with a real kick. (3237 McKinney at Hall/745-9464/Mon-Wed 11:30 a.m -3 p m., Thur & Fri till midnight. Sat till 1 a.m., closed Sun/No reservations/MC/$$)

Tho Bronx. A warm and funky little place with few pretensions and some terrific food coming from its kitchen. Nothing fancy, just great omelettes (served with a side of Italian sausage and a toasted bagel), sausage sandwiches, mushroom meatloat. and a hot pastrami on toasted rye that ranks with the best By all means have dessert homemade pies and cheesecake and a chocolate mousse that will bring you to your knees. Lunch seems to be in general a better bet than dinner. Beer and wine only, but a great selection of that, and a friendly, casual atmosphere. (3835 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn/521-5821/ Daily 11:30 am -12:30 am , bar till 2/No reservations/ MC/$$).

Crackers. A refreshingly unpretentious, gimmick-free restaurant. Set in a renovated McKinney Avenue house with modest charm, though rather noisy when crowded, which it usually is at lunch. With good reasons – among them excellent soups (they change daily, but the cream of broccoli and the corn chowder are particularly fine), a super-creamy quiche made with gourmandise cheese, and good hamburgers. Also a few hot entrees – the filet of sole is best. The daily luncheon “surprise” is usually unsurprising (meat loaf, roast beef) – stick to their regular fare. (2691 McKinney Ave/827-1660ILunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10. Fri & Sat 11: closed Sun/Reservations dinner onlylMC,BAI$$)

La Creperie. The courtyard patio under Cinzano umbrellas provides the nicest al fresco dining in Dallas. (There are inside tables for winter or rain.) The crepes are hefty one-per-serving size, in 47 varieties, including several ratatouille and several creamed spinach versions (#13 – spinach, Italian sausage, and mushrooms). For a different dessert, try their “tortillions.” (Quadrangle. 2800 Routh/651 -0506/ Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-10 p.m., closed Sun/Reservations re-commendedlMC.BA,DC,AEI$$)

Gallery Buffet. An expertly catered buffet table at the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, featuring hearty soups, salads, homemade breads, and desserts for only $2.50. Wine extra. (DMFA. Fair Park/421-4187/Tue-Fri 11:30a.m-1:30 p.m.INo reservations/No credit cards/$)

Magic Pan. A very popular place with a delicious selection of crepes, including outstanding dessert crepes. Very crowded during the week, but nice for Sunday brunch or late night after-theater snacks. (NorthPark – New Mall/ 692-7574IMon-Thur 11 a.m.-midnight. Fri till 1 a.m., Sat 10 a.m-1 a.m., Sun 10 a.m.-midnight/No reservations/ MC,BA.AE,DC/$$)

Zodiac Room. A stunning effect with salads as handsome as they are tasty, and an irresistible array of desserts – including their famous strawberry shortcake. Always crowded. Wine and beer. (Neiman-Marcus, downtown/741-6911/ Mon-Sat 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; teatime daily 3-5 p.m. except Thur 2:30-3:30: Thur dinner 5-7 p.m./Reservations! Neiman-Marcus charge card only, checks accepted/Si)



Fort Worth Restaurants

Angelo’s. A name that’s known across,the state as one of Texas’ premiere barbecue pits. And it is. Great beef, rich spicy sauce, big sandwiches, cold draught, and a setting that fits – West Texas rustic and sawdust floors. And overlooking the proceedings is a monstrous stuffed bear – a landmark himself (2533 White Settlement Rd/(817) 332-0357/Mon-Sat 11-10/No reservations/No credit cards $)

The Balcony. It’s not often that you find food like this at prices like this – a bargain in French cuisine. A nicely varied menu of entrees; including a delicious trout amandine. An odd but tasty touch: miniature egg rolls served gratis. It’s not without fault – the salads tend to be limp and the soups are suspect. A pleasant country-resort feeling – easy-going but gracious. (6100 Camp Bowie/(817)713-3719/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Fri & Sat 10:30; closed Sun/Reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$)

Carriage House. One of the oldest names in Fort Worth dining, the Carriage House is not the wonder it once was. but it still has its moments It’s meal of ups and downs. fine Old-plantation-style service but in a crab setting, excellent appetizers (have their splendid smoked salmon) but miserable soups: a fine Chateaubriand (beef dishes are their specialty) but served with canned peas and carrots. (5236 Camp Bowie (817)732-2873/Lunch. Sun-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11/Reservations/MC,BA.AE/$$$)

Cattleman’s. A famous Texas name that still delivers, and still from its original location right in the heart of the stockyards. The steaks are the thing here and they’re terrific – you can watch them being cooked on the grills at the end of each dining room. Lots of other options, ranging from calf fries (“Mountain Oysters”) to lobster and spaghetti. (2458 N Main/(817)624-3945/Mon-Fri 11 a.m. -10:45 p.m., Sat 4-10:45 p.m., closed Sun/Reservations/MC.BA,AE.DC.CB/$$)

Le Bistro. Authentic French cooking in a restaurant low in atmosphere but high in personal care. Papa Henri executes with talent his own varied and distinctive menu (dinner selection ranges from Eggs Benedict to frog legs Provencale to medallions of veal: at lunch, try his crepes) and daughter Michelle serves it up with unassuming charm. Extensive wine list. (No relation to Le Bistro in Dallas.) (3322 Camp Bowie/(817)332-5102/8runch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner: Tue-Sat5:30-9.30/Reservations/MC, BA/$$$)

Old Swiss House. Many claim that this is Fort Worth’s finest.Certainly a Fort Worth favorite – the Kaufmann familyhas been serving fine continental cuisine here tor manyyears. Delightful veal, dishes (the St. Moritz is rich andsatisfying) and a daily fresh seafood special. Great littlecomplimentary cheese rolls and a lovely Boston lettucedinner salad Not a particularly distinctive place, morecomfortable then classy. And the service can seem hurried. (5412 Camp Bowie/(817)738-8091/Mon-Thur 6-10.Fri & Sat till 10:30. closed Sun/Reservations/MC,BA,AE.DC/$$$)