Friday, March 29, 2024 Mar 29, 2024
61° F Dallas, TX
Advertisement
Publications

Food and Spirits DINING OUT

By D Magazine |

Entree

Denim Isn’t Dashing and Jeans Aren’t Genteel



“Hello, élan. May I help you?”

“Yes, I was wondering if there’s any need to make a dinner reservation for this evening, late, around 10 o’clock.”

“Let’s see. This is Wednesday . . . Oh, no sir, you shouldn’t have any problems.’’



That was somewhat reassuring. The girl on the phone had sounded quite nice, very natural, very . . . normal. And normal was reassuring at this point because some of the preliminaries to our visit to elan, a much trumpeted new restaurant/disco, were a bit unsettling.

First of all, there was the name itself, élan. Yes, it’s a rather pretty word. And yes, as the advertisements tell us, Carole Lombard and Clark Gable probably had it. But still, a little nervy. It’s doubtful that it would be any less disconcerting if they had named the place “frenchy-poo.” At least people wouldn’t be calling it “Elaine’s” all the time. And what’s worse, they didn’t capitalize the “e.” But then, it could have been worse – they could have named it “joie.”

More unnerving was the fact that a membership in élan was going to cost $100. Now that definitely separates the wheat from the chaff. And for those of us who usually fall in the chaff department, it was a little scary to imagine the prospect of wandering around in all that wheat. Our hesitancy was reinforced by the letter that arrived inviting us to visit for a preview membership. Because now the name was not only elan, but was subtitled “A Club For The Dashing.” Dashing? What exactly is “dashing?” Who exactly is “dashing?” Robin Hood came first to mind, but, dead as he is, Robin wasn’t likely to be previewing with us. Neither, for the same reason, would Errol Flynn, who also seemed “dashing.” And there certainly weren’t any of my friends who I’d ever considered “dashing,”’ least of all myself. Curious. I wondered who would be there.

A P.S. to the letter warned that “The wearing of denim is discouraged.” And furthermore, “Conservative grooming and genteel conduct are entrance prerequisites.” More misgivings. I could handle the denim part – I’m not belligerent a-bout my jeans; besides, just the week before I’d bought a nifty pair of beige slacks, and beige surely couldn’t be misconstrued as liberal. So they wouldn’t get me on jeans and they wouldn’t get me on beige. And surely they wouldn’t strike down my grooming for being bearded (Robin Hood probably sported a beard now and then). It was the “genteel” part that had me worried. Because I suspect I’m no more genteel than I am dashing. So there was this embarrassing, nightmarish vision of being blocked at the elan doorway by a large, clean-shaven, tuxedoed doorman. And as the dashing wheat gathered around me, he would say in an over-loud voice, “Sorry, sir. Not genteel.” Whereupon I would slump rejectedly off into the darkness of the parking lot.

The notion that this P.S. might have been just an unfortunate afterthought was quickly dispelled when another piece of literature from elan arrived in the mail. After some preliminary notes about the “tremendous response” and the “dramatic growth,” there came a section entitled “Statement of Club Policies” and a subsection titled “General Dress Standard.” Oh, oh. “Club standards,” it read, “require tasteful, appropriate attire and impeccable grooming at all time.” They certainly were making it difficult. Now 1 had to be not only dashing and genteel, but also impeccable. The paragraph went on to explain and clarify the denim issue. “Jeans are restricted to highly fashionable, continental dress/designer jeans which are a part of a stylish, coordinated, and conservative outfit. “Western” jeans are considered too casual for Club wear.” Ah. Now I understood. It was just that, while I had some inklings, nobody before had ever taken the time to explain to me the difference between right denim and wrong denim. The dress standard concluded with a paragraph that “specifically prohibited” these items: “men’s T-shirts and other collarless shirts; ladies’ informal halter tops; athletic shoes (tennis or other); shorts; men’s hats.” I concluded that men’s hats are either not dashing, not genteel, or tend to be unimpeccable.

There was more cause for concern: the “General Conduct Standard.” The ultimatum of “Genteel conduct by members, guests, and staff is required” was reiterated here. They were definitely not taking this genteel business lightly. And my hopes for anything of a good time were slightly diminished by the notice that “Loud, boisterous behavior is not acceptable.” But then I was relieved to read that “Illegal activities are prohibited.”



In hopes that our own suspect presence would not constitute an illegal activity, we decided to visit elan. We arrived about 10 p.m. on a Wednesday night as planned, and found the parking lot brimming with impeccable cars. Recalling no General Parking Standards, I went ahead and pulled into a space headlights first. We nervously approached the club and were relieved to find no large doorman. Once inside we were greeted by a smiling girl who said, “Hi.” That seemed shockingly informal and encouraging. There was some brief desk and card work and we were shown in.

The place was jammed, but a friendly waiter eventually got us a table. Though we were the only people in the entire place having dinner, we enjoyed a reasonably nice meal (at incredibly low prices) of Steak Tartar and Beef elan. Oh, the evening wasn’t entirely free of misgiving. The menu felt a need to define and pronounce “elan” (“é●lan (pronounced: eh●lón), n. spirit, flair, impetuous ardor”), which would seem an affont to such genteel clientele. Besides, it confuses: My dictionary pronounces it “a●lan.” And occasionally a tightly wrapped buttock would cruise through my escargot champignon. And the backgammon bar was slightly annoying (nothing against backgammon, but there’s no need to make an upfront spectacle of the game). And where I’d imagined a nice bit of chrome-and-purple decadence, there were bright cheery fabrics and a “”library” with such timeless treasures as Our Navy by R.P. Stevens. A Short Course in Anatomy, and odd numbers of The Federalist Digest, most of them stacked upside down.

But our initial fears and hesitations were calmed by a good bit of loud, boisterous behavior. And. though there was a high percentage of continental dress/designer jeans which were a part of stylish, coordinated, conservative outfits, there was one reassuring degenerate who managed to slip in wearing his ungenteel Western types. What’s more, nobody ever gave me a long, quizzical stare as if to say. “Well. 1 certainly wouldn’t call him dashing.” I think it was my beige slacks that fooled them.

David Bauer

Recipe

Sicilian Connection

The hundreds of fans of Ciro’s Sicilian pizza have only Charlotte Stockton to thank for it. Charlotte, co-owner of Ciro’s, devised the recipe herself (for herself, she admits) when she came to Dallas. “I ate it three or four times a week in New York, and when I moved back to Texas there was none to be found. Then we started serving it at Ciro’s because I thought people would like it. Now we run out every day – and I don’t even get to eat it anymore.”



Crust



2 tbsp butter

1 tsp salt

1/4 cup sugar

1 cake yeast

l 1/2cups lukewarm water

3 1/2 cups sifted flour

1 egg well-beaten

olive oil

Tomato Sauce



12 oz. can tomato paste

1/3 cup dry red wine

1 tsp leaf oregano

1 tsp sweet basil

3 cloves garlic, pressed

(Combine ingredients in a bowl.)



Meat Filling



1 lb. lean ground beef

1 medium onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, pressed

1/2 to 1 tsp tabasco sauce

1 tsp salt

1/2 cup dry red wine

(Brown beef and onion in a skillet. Add garlic, tabasco, salt and wine. Simmer for 15 minutes. Drain off juices.)



Miscellaneous Ingredients



2 ripe tomatoes

1/2 lb. sliced mushrooms

8 oz. grated mozzarella

1 cup grated parmesan



To prepare crust, add butter, salt, sugar, and crumbled yeast cake to water;stir until butter is melted. Stir in flour,cover and set in warm place to rise. Whendoubled in bulk, add egg, knead lightlyand let rise again until doubled in bulk.Pat into well-oiled (olive oil) pan, 10″ x18 1/2″ x 3 1/2″. Brush top of dough witholive oil and bake at 400° for 20 minutes.Remove from oven and layer tomatosauce, meat filling, two tomatoes (peeledand thinly-sliced), sliced mushrooms,grated mozzarella, and grated parmesan sprinkled evenly over pizza. Bakein 400° oven 15-20 minutes until cheeseis golden brown. Serves eight.

Newcomers



The Bijou. At the comer of Northwest Highway and Skillman, what was once Pelican’s Wharf, with its down-by-the-seaside motif, is now The Bijou, which looks like, as one visitor described it, “the Alamo in Deco.” Obviously a great deal of money has been spent to make such a facelift. The investment is half sound, half shaky. To the right of the entry lobby is the bar and disco – this is the good half. Following the deco theme, the large room is done in deep blues and violets, trimmed in neon tubing, and highlighted by some striking decoesque fixtures: golden palm trees overhanging the dance area and several stunning layered mirrors. It’s a lovely room that shows that rare restaurant combination of imagination and restraint. But on the other side of the lobby, where you pick up your “Admission” pass for dinner at the ticket booth (The Bijou, remember), the imagination runs amuck and restraint disappears entirely. The setting becomes “backstage,” with stage props of all sorts hanging from the ceiling (why didn’t they stick with the deco success?) The waiters and waitresses are garbed as famous film stars of the Thirties and Forties – we were served by “Mr. Chips” (whose tableside commentary was less than professorial), and by Spencer Tracy. The menu is the pop-continental mixed bag that is becoming common – and is, at this point, done better elsewhere. The medallions of beef in “bearnaise” and the Chicken Bijou in “game sauce” were not even forgettable – the failure lingered. Much better were the duck (ample if uninteresting), the filet of sole with a decent “seafood stuffing,” and the veal with vegetables (almost an Oriental approach and quite good). Forget the stuffed mushrooms and the “Swiss onion soup” (like gravy) and have the oysters wrapped in bacon and Swiss cheese (fun and tasty, though the noble oyster is buried). And the fried artichoke hearts are nice, too. But until the kitchen polishes its craft, a trip to the Bijou is like a a movie with a great beginning and a half-baked ending. (500 Medallion Center, E. NW. Hwy at Skillmanl69l-3037/Daily 5:30-11 (plans to open for lunch still pending) No reservations/ MC, BA, AE/ $$$)

The French Quarter/Fort Worth. Hoping to give Fort Worth “a taste of New Orleans” (as the motto on the menu reads), the French Quarter gives less a taste than a quick look. Visually, no expense has been spared in its New Orleans motif, from the pen and ink scenes of the Viecix Carré to the vista of Bourbon Street on the wallpaper. The antique furnishings and china on display in the foyer are meant to suggest the faded elegance of grand old houses with fine family cooks. The pleasant downstairs dining room, dominated by a comfortable wooden bar, looks out on a charming little patio sporting white café tables topped by Cinzano umbrellas. Wall-hung carpets, bamboo blinds and straw placemats, all with the right spirit and ambience. Tasteful, yes, but a real taste of New Orleans, no. The menu is a melange of French, Cajun and American dishes leaning heavily (and heavily is the right word) to seafood. Oysters mosca was a pasty glump of oysters and mushrooms, indistinguishable from one another, stirred into white rice. Bits of shell, many bits of shell, marred both the crab imperial and the seafood crêpes. At lunch we were served tough, overcooked bacon and mushroom quiche, and the onion soup cowered below a soggy mass of cheese and bread.

A hearty gumbo unexpectedly – and unfortunately – included chunks of meat. Add to that limp salads, though the Hospers dressing was nice – almonds, Parmesan, oil and vinegar. Only a single dessert saved this excursion – “pecan luxurio,” a delightful praline-y sauce of pecans and molasses over vanilla ice cream. But flan as thick as bread pudding, and the Creole bread pudding . . . well, even the overdose of bourbon topping couldn’t lift its spirits. In spite of good cornbread and homemade rolls, the taste of New Orleans didn’t make it across the state line. (4801 Camp Bowie Blvd./ 817-732-5524/ Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m. -2:30 p.m., 5:30-10 p.m., Sat & Sun 5:30-11 p.m./ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

Merrimac / Fort Worth. Although it’s hardly Manhattan, Merrimac may be as close as Fort Worth gets to having a “New York style disco-restaurant.” Instead of A la Carte



There seems to be a bit of a culinary battle simmering in the Great State of Texas. Several weeks ago. State Rep. Ben Z. Grant (What do you suppose the Z. stands for?) of Athens, Tx. proposed that the state legislature adopt chili as our State Dish. A silly enough proposal, something befitting our legislature, something to waste a wonderful amount of time and taxes over. Especially when there arose, probably much to Ben Z.’s surprise. Political Opposition. The Repasts In Barbecue Society (RIBS), internationally headquartered in Dallas, immediately fired out a bulletin in behalf of their own beloved stuff, citing the existence of barbecue in Texas “at least 40 years earlier than the Texas advent of chili.”

Immediately recognizing a vital and volatile issue, the Dallas Morning News’ Instapoll citizen survey system queried the Dallas populace as to which side of the stove they stood on. Two to one in favor of barbecue, were the headlined results, in distinct contrast to the results of a similar poll in Austin which found its people four to one in favor of chili. “Aw,” observed one keen political observer and chili proponent, “that’s just ’ cause there’s a bunch a Yankees livin’ in Dallas.”

As a concerned citizen, you’ll surely want to make your own enlightened decision regarding the important Dish Issue. On the chili side, we suggest that your research begin at Tolbert’s Texas Chili Parlor and Museum of the Chili Culture, deep in the heart o’ downtown Dallas. Frank X. Tolbert, widely known columnist for the Dallas News, is the Founding Father, the Patron Saint of chili. The now-famous Terlingua Chili Cook-off is a Tolbert creation; his book Bowl of Red is the last word on the subject; and his Chili Parlor and Museum is the gathering spot of the chili culture.

$1.75 will get you a bowl of red (onions and cheese optional), Tolbert’s original concoction and a quintessential chili, a solid signpost by which to make your political judgement.”The recipe is moderated for the mob,” says Frank. “We have to make it a little less pungent, cut down a little on the chili peppers, for the general clientele.” Like any chili chef, Frank is not about to divulge his recipe in its entirety, but he cites two key ingredients as cilanthro and Lone Star Beer. “And it’s not greasy,” says Frank. “We use lean chuck and no lard, just sweet suet, kidney suet. You can eat this chili with heartburn.”

Some of the barbecue barristers are arguing that chili is not even Texan, that it comes from Mexico. Frank, who has been all over the world with his chili, (“I made reindeer chili in Norway last summer”) quickly sets that record straight. “Even the Mexican dictionary describes chili as a ’dish erroneously called Mexican.” The fact is, about fifteen years ago, the Chili Society and I introduced chili to Mexico.”

(802 Main at Austin St.1742-63361 Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-2 p.m.. Sat till I a.m.)

the concrete jungle, the setting is practically pastoral: not the foul Hudson but the placid Trinity lapping at the well-manicured banks outside your riverview window in Cowtown’s leafiest section, River Plaza. There are three floors – for dining, drinking, and dancing – and all kinds of sounds, from heavy metal to C&W, filter down from the disco speakers on the upper level. But then a soft-voiced, down-home hostess leads you to your table and, amid the incongruous decor (including aluminum tubular wicker chairs), Merrimac’s southern hospitality softens you up for first-rate food. Crisp chicken and shrimp lumpia are well worth a taste, and their thick cream of chicken and almond soup is delightful. The escargots and the onion soup were less successful (each was too salty), but with its entrees, Merrimac performs solidly. Chicken flannery (chicken stuffed with mushrooms and covered with swiss cheese) heads a formidable list of dishes. The shrimp Merrimac would be like sauteed shrimp anywhere – garlic, butter, shallots – but the white wine glaze lifts it out of the ordinary. The medium rare London broil is satisfying and above all try the roast duckling with almonds, the house specialty. On the sides, the Bibb lettuce salad is springy-fresh and delicious, but the vegetable portions are criminally small. For dessert: crêpes Andres, with cream cheese filling and a Galliano sauce topping, a mouth-watering winner. The Merrimac may not be New York, but then it isn’t Fort Worth either. (1541 Merrimac Circle, River Plaza off University/ (817) 332-9306/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Fri 6-11, Sat & Sun till midnight; Sun brunch 11-2/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/$$$)

Spirits

Sherry: It Reigns In Spain



If Frank Gifford can recommend it, it must mean that sherry has finally graduated from the old maids’ musty parlours and into the shining world of macho and disco. But as far as I’m concerned, sherries always belonged in the repertoire of the serious, or rather the studious, wine lovers.

Please don’t say, as so many do, “I like sherry,” or “I don’t like sherry.” Sherry is not one single wine. Sherries are a family of wines with an almost endless variety of tastes, colors, and fragrances. We can basically divide them into two types – fino (dry, light and pale) and oloroso (dark, rich and fragrant) – but there are enough variations within each type to fit any wine serving occasion.

The tastes range from the bone-dry, almost salty Manzanilla style (usually served before meals) through a variety of Amontillados each with a different degree of sweetness (for pleasant afternoon sipping) to the dark, luscious sweet cream oloroso (a perfect after-dinner finale).

Sherries are Spanish. No matter that almost every wine – producing country makes a sherry type wine – none of them approach the uniqueness of the true sherry from Jerez. There are many reasons for the unique qualities of Spanish sherry. One is the rare, snowwhite “Al-bariza” soil containing over 80 percent chalk on which the finest vineyards grow the one and only Palomino grape. The “Barro” soil, consisting of brownish clay with a large proportion of limestone, is planted mostly with the Pedro Ximenez grape, the producer of the very sweet wine used for the mellowing of the final blend.

The harvest in Jerez starts in early September. The Palomino grapes are picked and allowed to dry in the sun for one day.

The next step is disappointing to the visitors who have expected the traditional treading of the grapes with human feet – the picture book square wooden troughs with four men wearing hobnailed boots stomping the grapes are a faded vision of the past, replaced during the last couple of decades by the most modern mechanical grape crushers invented in Germany. The juice is then fermented in small casks. The first fermentation is rapid and turbulent and lasts only three to four days, but continues in a slowly diminishing way until almost the end of the year. The wine falls bright in winter and is racked away from the lees on the bottom of the cask.

In spring the mysterious “flor” (the flower) appears on the surface of the wine in the form of thick white film. The “flor” cannot be induced to appear but on the other hand can very easily be killed.

The progress and development of each barrel is regularly tested by smell alone. The manager (capataz) draws samples of wine with a curious instrument called the venencia, a silver cup on the end of a flexible four foot whalebone and with a flowing gesture lifts the silver cup high in the air, catching the falling stream of sherry into a small glass held at the waist level. Theatrical, yes, but it accomplishes its purpose, which was to aerate the wine.

During its aging period in the original cask the sherries are fortified with some local brandy.

After two to three years, wines judged to have similar characteristics are moved to the appropriate solera. The solera system of maturing and blending sherries allows each sherry house to produce several uniform wines of unvarying, exact taste year after year. The consumer can be assured that Tio Pepe, Bristol Cream, or Croft Original will always taste the same. The solera consists of rows of barrels placed three to four high, with the oldest wine in the bottom scale and youngest in the topmost. At regular intervals about 1/3 of the contents of the oldest sherry is withdrawn and is replaced by 1/3 of the wine from the middle barrel which in turn is replaced by the youngest sherry from the top. The older wines subtly change the younger. (This picture of barrels on top of each other is only a simplistic explanation, since most sherries need as many as 15 scales and movements and obviously one cannot physically place 15 barrels on top of each other; so more often than not, this flowing rotation of sherry from cask to cask is horizontal, not vertical.)

Very few sherries are marketed as straight bone dry solera types – the public demands different degrees of sweetness, accomplished in the final blend by addition of the super-sweet, luscious wines made from the previously-mentioned Pedro Ximenez grapes. There are no “vintage” sherries; all are blended.

Sherries do not improve in the bottle, so it does not make sense to stock up on sherries for home use, rather one should buy them only as needed. Once opened, sherries will remain fresh longer than regular table wines, but their life is limited to maybe a week or two before they start deteriorating. Chill dry sherries; do not chill sweet sherries.

The regular wine glass tapering at the top is correct for sherries, but the triangular 2 1/2 ounce so-called “sherry glass” is not even adequate. The very best glass is the copita style as used in Spain, a sort of narrow elongated brandy snifter on a short stem.

A taste for sherries is most definitely an acquired taste, a taste acquired by experimentation and a taste worth exploring. The favorite sherries of most are the medium-dry sherries – the Amontillados – so it is here that your experimentation should most logically begin. On the Dallas market, the Amontillados are easily available. My suggestions (you may find your own favorites differ) among the many available are these:

Harvey’s Bristol Milk ($4.69 a fifth)

Williams & Humbert Dry Sack ($4.99)

Gonzalez & Byass Tulita ($5.29)

Buy a bottle and sample over a period of a week or two. By then you will know if you want to move to the drier finos or the much sweeter cream sherries.

In the dry class, I would suggest, for your taste samplings, any of the following:

Croft Pale Dry ($3.97) Gonzalez & Byass Tio Pepe ($5.49) Duff Gordon El Cid ($5.49) Pedro Domecq La Ina ($5.49)

At the other end of the spectrum, are the sweet cream sherries, often preferred by women (I’m not casting any unliber-ated aspersions here – it’s just the truth!). From the sweet sherries, I would suggest you sample these:

Harvey’s Bristol Cream ($7.99)

Pedro Domecq Celebration Cream ($6.79)

Williams & Humbert Canasta Cream($6.59)

The most unusual of cream sherries, and one relatively new on the market (since about three years ago) is the Croft Original Cream ($5.97), Most of the cream sherries are very dark in color and heavy; the Croft Original is pale and comparatively light.

– Victor Wdowiak

Dining Directory

These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit then, that we recommend all of them highly.

These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general price range.

$ – Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ – Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ – Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $10 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ – Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC – Master Charge/BA – Bank Americard/AE – American Express/DC – Diner’s Club/CB – Carte Blanche/”AII Credit Cards” indicates that all the above are accented.



Continental

Arthur’s. Once a rustic steakhouse. now a shimmering beef palace. Steak remains the pillar of the operation, but other options abound: lamb chops, veal chops, and calf’s liver to name a few favorites. American wines only – an intriguing and imaginative touch. Warm and classy with one of Dallas’ best bars. Live entertainment. (WOO Campbell Centre/361-8833/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

Bagatelle. The charm of this lovely but low-key restaurant stems directly from its gracious owner/ host. Veal has always been the specialty of the house – try the year escalopes “Vieux Chalet.” The shrimp du chef (in a garlic sauce) is a delight for starters. A cozy bar with good jazz. Nice Sunday brunch. The Plaza Cafe is a more casual offshoot of the same kitchen, featuring a fountainside patio tor outdoor dining from a varied light-continental menu. (One Energy Square, Greenville at University/ 692-8224/ Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Sun brunch 10:30-2 Bagatelle dinner: Sun- Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till 11, bar till 11:30, Plaza dinner: Sun-Thur 6-12,Fri & Sat till 1 / Reservations / MC, BA.AE.DC/$$-$$$)

The Balcony/ Fort Worth. It’s not often that you find food like this at prices like this – a bargain in French cuisine. A nicely varied menu of entrees, including a delicious trout amandine. An odd but tasty touch: miniature egg rolls served gratis. It’s not without fault – the salads tend to be limp and the soups are suspect. A pleasant country-resort feeling – easy-going but gracious. (6100 Camp Bowie/ (817)713-3719/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fn & Sat 10:30; closed Sun/ Reservations/ MC.BA.AE/ $$)

Le Bistro. A delightful place (an old two story house redone with a gracious touch and without pretension), but one that has never quite realized its potential as a purveyor of provincial French cuisine. Very recently, there have been changes in management and kitchen staff (along with further remodeling), so perhaps Le Bistro will finally find its groove. Because when they’re on, they’re excellent. And the desserts are always a treat – try the cold almond souffle. (3716 Bowser, just off Oak Lawn/528-4181/Tue-Fn 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 6-10 p.m.; Sat & Sun 6-10 p.m.. closed Mon/Reserva-tions/MC. BA.AE/$$$)

Le Bistro Fort Worth. Authentic French cooking in a restaurant low in atmosphere but high in personal care. Papa Henri executes with talent his own varied and distinctive menu (dinner selection ranges from Eggs Benedict to frog legs Provencale to medallions of veal; at lunch, try his crepes) and daughter Michelle serves it up with unassuming charm. Extensive wine list. (No relation to Le Bistro in Dallas.) (3322 Camp Bowie/ (817)332-5102/ Brunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2. Dinner: Tue-Sat 5:30-9:30/ Reservations/ MC.BA/ $$$)

Brasserie. The most elegant “coffee shop” in town. In the wee hours of the morning (they’re open 24 hours), stop by to treat yourself to Dallas’ best Eggs Benedict – sprinkled with truffles (at 3 am they bother?), or a sandwich of sirloin on crisp, buttery French bread During the other hours, especially lunch, the fare is mostly overpriced and undistinguished. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Ak-ard/748-5454/24 hours, seven days a week/No reservations/MC, BA.AE, DC/$$)

Brannan’s. Forget it for dinner – even the enormous menu selection can’t satisfy Lunch is a legitimate option only if you’re already downtown. But “Breakfast at Brennan’s” (or Sunday brunch) can still fill you with fantasies of the idle rich and morning luxury – and with their many famous variations on the poached egg. (One Main Place/747-1911 /Breaktast & lunch: 7-2:30 weekdays, 8-2:30 weekends: Dinner: Daily 6-10, till 11 weekends/Reservations/ All credit cards/$$$)

Calluaud. One of Dallas’ most civilized restaurants. Set in a small frame house, with a casual yet intimate atmosphere complemented by consistently fine French foods. Superb soups and excellent omelettes; and desserts not to be missed: simple and wonderful fruit tarts (try the apple) and exquisite profiteroles. The imaginative dinner menu changes frequently but has provided such items as a perfectly prepared fresh salmon steak and roast pork in a prune sauce. Prices are a bargain for the quality. It’s easy to get hooked on this place. (2917 Fairmount off Cedar Springs/ 742-8525/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.: Dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat till 11, closed Sun/ Reservations/ MC.BA.AE/ $$$)

Carriage House/ Fort Worth. One of the oldest names in Fort Worth dining, the Carriage House is not the wonder it once was, but it still has its moments It’s a meal of ups and downs: fine Old-plantation-style service but in a drab setting; excellent appetizers (have their splendid smoked salmon) but miserable soups; a fine Chateaubriand (beef dishes are their specialty) but served with canned peas and carrots. (5236 Camp Bowie/

D REVISITS

Chablis. In its own unintentional y. Chablis is one D REVISTS of the oddest little restaurants in Dallas. It is certainly French – the lilting accents of the proprietors and many of the staff make that much clear. But just what sort of a French restaurant is a bit difficult to determine. Despite white linen and candlelight it cannot really be classified as “elegant;” despite the shape and texture of a wooden shed, it can’t really be called “quaint.” By day it can seem somewhat gloomy, by night it can seem rather romantic. The menu too is curious. At dinner, the focus is on sophisticated specialties such as an expertly-prepared pepper steak or a roast duckling in a subtle glaze (refreshingly free of the usual orange overdose) But at lunch, among several French regional specialties, there is an unexpected selection of deli-style sandwiches (like good old pastrami and Swiss). And the daily luncheon specials are likely to include a dish like veal liver with onions – delicious, but much more in the style of Texas country cookin’ than French haute cuisine. Individual highlights include wonderful light, flakey-crusted bread; a tasty chicken pate served complimentary at dinner; and a sweet, rich chocolate mousse that avoids the usual chalkiness. Low-lights are the pricing on such items as a small crock of onion soup ($2) and a slice of quiche ($3.75). When you leave Chablis, you’re not quite sure where you’ve been – but you’re usually not sorry you went. (120 Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/522-0910/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2 30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat till midnight; closed Sun/Reservations on weekends/MC.BA, AE,DC/$$$)

(817)732-2873/ Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11/ Reservations/ MC.BA.AE/ $$$)

Chateaubriand. A long-time Dallas fixture whose popularity survives in spite of a loud clash of styles including a glossy, almost garish, French provincial dining room with marble statues and chandeliers. The international menu sweeps from “Greek Veal” to “Pepper Steak – Hawaiian Style.” Many steaks and shellfish. Bargain daily hot luncheon specials (3515 McKinney’ 741-1223/ Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m-midnight/ Resewations,’ All credit cards/$$$)

The Chimney. A Swiss Austrian style characterizes this kitchen and gives this restaurant some special appeal. The Naturschnitzel is a fine veal dish, as is the veal Zurich. For a twist, try the venison tourne-dos. Lunch is still served in the tearoom tradition that originally established The Chimney. The dining room is American colonial in motif – handsome but a bit lifeless. (Willowcreek, 9739 N Cen Expwy at Walnut Hill/369-6466/Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30/Sun brunch 11-2/Reservations/MC.AE,DC/$$$)

Enclave. A tancily-appointed mood restaurant (in the subdued smoked-mirror-and-chandeliers tradition)

– a place for those who relish the romance ofcandlelight and sett music. Unfortunately, the fooddoesn’t measure up to the surroundings – fromthe copious menu you’ll get an adequate meal, butdon’t expect the sublime. Lunch, more modest inrange and price, is a better bet. Well-disciplinedservice and a fine wine list. (8325 Walnut Hill/ 363-7487/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11. bar till 12/ Reservations/ MC.BA.AE.DC/$$$)

Ewald’s. An Inspired collection of veal dishes (Veal “Palm Beach” with Westphalian ham, hearts of palm, and béarnaise sauce) have given Ewald his loyal following. But he also serves a cognac-flamed pepper steak that ranks with the best in town. A smattering of other continental dishes (with a Swiss flavor) and a limited seafood selection A small, plain – in fact bland – dining room. (5415 W Lovers Ln/357-1622/Mon-Fri 6-10:30. Sat 6-11 /Reservalions/MC,BA/$$$)

The Grape. Cozy, congenial, and crowded, The Grape delights its loyal tans with a wonderful array of cheeses from which you create your own elegant cheese board combinations. A daily menu of light entrees, plus lovely omelettes and great soups – the fresh mushroom has a reputation of its own.A diverse and interesting wine selection An oldand unassuming little place. (2808 GreenvilleAve/823-0133/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Tue-Sun, 6-10:30, open later on Fri & Sat torwine and cheese only/No reservations/No creditcards/$$)

Marcei’s. Marcel is a charming host in the classic French tradition; it’s that French feeling that has made this a long-pcpular restaurant. That and a complete table d’hote dinner for only $6.50 – not the finest French cuisine in the city but certainly the best priced. Beef Wellington is the house specialty, but the real star may be the coq au vin. Relaxed, quiet dining (5721 W Lovers Ln/358-2103/Sun-Thur 6-10:30. Fri & Sat till midnight. Closed Mon/Reservations/MC,BA.AE,DC/$$)

Mr. Peppe. Some say it’s the best French restaurant in the city. Others cite inconsistencies and argue. Regardless, there is a friendly intimacy and refreshing informality at work here – a warm, dark, and cozy setting. Wonderful rack of lamb, superb pepper steak. And the pastries – owner/chef Albert’s specialties – are almost too good to be true (5617 W Lovers Ln/ 352-5976/ Mon-Sat 6-10/ Reservations/ MC.BA.AE.DC/ $$$)

Old Swiss House/ Fort Worth. Many claim that this is Fort Worth’s finest. Certainly a Fort Worth favorite – the Kaufmann family has been serving fine continental cuisine here for many years Delightful veal dishes (the St. Moritz is rich and satisfying) and a daily fresh seafood special. Great little complimentary cheese rolls and a lovely Boston lettuce dinner salad. Not a particularly distinctive place, more comfortable than classy. And the service can seem hurried. (5412 Camp Bowie/ (817) 738- 8091/ Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sal till 10:30, closed Sun/ Reservations/ MC.BA.AE.DC/ $$$)

Old Warsaw. Not always up to its glowing reputation and illustrious heritage, but the stately luxury and Old World appeal still prevail. The meal may have its ups and downs, but the entrees usually dazzle. A tine duck Bigarade and beautifully prepared seafood dishes. Service is sometimes perfect, sometimes far from t. Magnificent wine cellar. (2610 Maple/ 528-0032/Daily 6-11, Sal till midnight/Res-ervations/MC, BA.AE, DC/$$$$)

Patry’s. Another contender in the “best-French-res-taurant-in-town” debate. A family-run operation with an obvious personal touch is one reason. A menu of exquisite hors d’oeuvres is another (have the stuffed leeks in cream sauce). The escalope of veal is the star of the entrees. Neither luxurious nor intimate, but that doesn’t deter a very loyal clientele. (2504 McKinney/748-3754/Tue-Fri 6-11, Sat till 11:30/Reservations/MC,BA,AE,DC/$$$)

Pyramid Room. The classiest dining room in Dallas – an aura of affuence and impeccable taste. A paragon of service – absolutely professional but without pomposity, including a theatrical sommeli-er. A dizzying dinner menu of French specialties of the highest order (lunch is less glamorous). The Grand Marnier dessert souffle is a triumph. In sum, Dallas’ finest restaurant. But even at that, capable of disappointment because it is so expensive. Too expensive. But always a pleasure if you can pay the price. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard/ 748-5454/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily 6-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$$)



Italian



Campltl’s. The sign says “Egyptian Restaurant,” but the place is strictly Italian, carried on in the proud family tradition of papa Carlo Campisi, whose portrait still watches over the proceedings. Dallas’ original pizza specialists – and still the best. Or try the platefull of sausage and peppers. Warm (in fact steamy) and wonderful – and always a waiting line to prove it. (5610 E Mocking-bird/827-0355/Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat till 1 a.m., Sun noon-midnlght/No credit cards. Checks accepted/Reservations lor 6 or more/$)

lanni’s. An undistinguished shopping center facade, an entry lobby tacked with Dallas sports photos and celebrity glossies and a dining room that’s a vineyard of plastic grapes doesn’t bode well. But lanni’s can surprise you. It’s relaxed and unpretentious – a throwback to simpler dining. The waitresses are pros and the kitchen is sound if not stunning. And the homemade Italian sausage is as good as any in town. (2230 Greenville/ 826-6161/ Daily 5:30-11 p.m./ Reservations/ MC,AE/$$)

II Sorrento. The best Italian food in Dallas in a mar-velously hokey setting – like a Hollywood designer’s dream of Venice, complete with strolling musicians and bread vendors. The fettucine Alfredo and the tagliatel’e – both prepared at your table – are standouts among the pasta dishes; the veal dishes are crowned by the Marsala and piccata. Be warned that even with a reservation you may be forced to bide time waiting in the bar. (8616 Turtle Creek/352-8759/Daily 5:30-11. Sat till midnight/Reservations except on Fri & Sat/All credit cards/$$$)

Italian Pavilion. This overdone (fancy-tacky) dining room atop the LeBaron Hotel seems an unlikely setting for fine Italian dining. But fine it can be. Try any of the veal dishes – the saltimbocca in a superb marsala sauce is particularly good. Excellent appetizers and desserts and an interesting Italian wine list combine to make this a place worth a visit. (LeBaron Hotel, 1055 Regal Row at Carpenter Fwy/ 634-8550/ Mon-S.it 6-11 p.m./ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

Mario’s. One of few Dallas restaurants to take the sophisticated approach and do so with dignity, with natural elegance. A longstanding family success, so there is an air of confidence and pride. Delicious roquefort-based cheese spread (complimentary), dense and delicious French bread loaves, marvelous fried zucchini Try the “Frittura Delizie Romano,” a batter tried spinach appetizer Entrees (northern Italian specialties) are stylish but not exceptional. Splendid wine list (135 Turtle Creek Village/521-1135/Daily 6-11, Sat till mid-night/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

Pletro’s. Home-style Sicilian cooking with flocks of regular customers. The standouts are the pasta dishes – manicotti, cannelloni, fettucine alla Ro-mana, lasagna with meat sauce, and spaghetti ma-rinara – and old standbys like pizza (order the special Sicilian style in advance) and garlic bread (baked on the premises) (5722 Richmond off Greenville/824-9403/Tue-Thur 5:30-10 p.m., Fri & Sat till 11 p.m./No reservations/No credit cards/$$)



Oriental

China Inn. A dependable restaurant with a Cantonese emphasis. Standcuts are the sweet-and-sour dishes, the ginger beef, and war sue har (barter-fried shrimp with a “country-style” sauce). Huge eggrolls and excellent homemade almond cookies Low-keyed and comfortable. (6521 E Northwest Hwy/ 369-7733/ Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 5-10:30 p.m.: Sat till midnight: Sun 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m./ Reservations’ MC.BA.AE/ $$)



D REVISTS

Atla Garden. With a Chinese restaurant on almost every cor- ner now (Hunan alone seems to have spun off two), there real ly has to be a super-chef in the kitchen to attract notice. That’s what Asia Garden has – fortunately, since it doesn’t have much else. Its in one of the world’s worst locations (the restaurant population bomb at Greenville and Park) and the decor is cold and bright, with distinctly occidental Muzak blaring in the background. Service, too, varies from sullen to superb. But once the food arrives, you won’t really care – everything is prepared with finesse, including perhaps the best eggrolls in Dallas. The entrees (mostly Mandarin in style) are all carefully prepared, without that warmed-over taste that Chinese food gets when it sits around in pots and also without the sledgehammer hype of MSG that so many Oriental establishments rely on to give their food pizazz Try the moo Shi pork, the shrimp with sizzling rice, the “Imperial Prawns,” or the almond diced chicken. Lunch is a curious affair with an all-you-can-eat buffet and a gluttonous clientele Note. At press time, a fire has temporarily closed the restaurant – they plan to reopen in a few weeks. (6936 Greenville Avenue/692-8381 /L unch: Daily 11:30-2:30: Dinner: 5:30-10, Fri & Sat till 11/All credit cards/$$)

Chinase Pavilion. The menu here is identical to that of Hunan, the restaurant that spawned this one. Be adventurous and put yourself in the waiter’s hands. For $8 per person you’ll be treated to a multi-course dinner featuring the chef’s Hunan and Sze-chuan-style specialties. And the crabmeat and corn soup is a must. (European Crossroads, 2829W Northwest Hwy/357-5777/Sun-Thur 11:30 a.m-11 p.m., Fri & Sat till midnight/ Reservations/ MC, BA.AE/$$)

Hunan. Currently Dallas’ best Chinese restaurant. The Hunan cuisine that is its specialty is milder than you’ll find in New York, but still potent Have the “pu pu tray” of appetizers, and then you’re on your own – it’s all good (though we recommend Hunan Lamb, Champagne Chicken, and Shrimp with Garlic Sauce) Small and comfortable. (5214 Greenville Ave at Lovers Ln/369-4578/Mon-Thur 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri, Sat & Sun 11-midnight/Reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$)

Peking Palace. Once Dallas Oriental best, but it hasn’t quite kept up with the booming competition. Too many items taste warmed-over, but the Sze-chuan-style selections are, for the most part, excellent (try the shredded pork with garlic sauce). And the Won Ton soup is the best in town. And still the most pleasant dining room of any Dallas Oriental restaurant. (4119 Lomo Alto/522-1830/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-11. Fri & Sat till midnight. Sun noon-10 p.m./Reservations on weekends/MC,BA,AE/$$)

Ports O’ Call. The menu now docks in many new ports (wiener schnitzel from Germany, steak au poivre from France, etc.), though the featured fare is still mostly Polynesian. And nothing special at that – but then that’s never been the appeal here anyway. The attractions are the lavish (almost ludicrous) dining rooms, the 37th floor view with the “big-city” feeling, and the exotic rum concoctions in the tiki-god-and-blowfish bar – try the Test Pilot, limit 2 per customer. (Southland Center, 2117 Live Oak/’742-2334/Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily 5:30-10:30/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

Royal China. A friendly place with a loyal clientele, a most gracious host, and some unusual menu items: Tea Smoked Duck, Golden Crown of Pork, and Dry Stir Beef. All the food is attractively presented – the chef even sculpts elegant little butterflies from carrots. Unfortunately, the appetizers are on the greasy side. (201 Preston Royal Shopping Center/361-1771 or 368-9692/Tues-Sun 11:30-2:30 and 5:30-10 p.m., closed Mon/MC.BA, AE,DC/$$)

Royal Tokyo. Long the home of superb Japanese cuisine, but lately in a slump. Once-favorite dishes like shabu-shabu and the teriyaki dinner have suffered from careless preparation. Even the delicate sunomono salad is not what it used to be. It seems recent remodeling has upset the gracious care of old. Only temporary, we hope. Because at its best, it’s wonderful. (7525 Greenville Ave/368-3304/Lunch: Daily 11:30-2, except Sat; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat till 11:30, Sun 5-10/Reservations/MC.8A,AE, DC/$$)

South China. An unassuming restaurant that specializes in Mandarin cuisine. The dishes with black bean sauce are the standouts, as well as the spicy chicken with pecans, barbecued pork with vegetables, and the shredded beef with hot sauce Excellent soups and appetizers. (5424 E Mocking-bird/826-5420/Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30, Sat & Sun noon-2:30; Dinner: Daily 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11 /Reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$)

Trader Vic’s. One of the best of a variable chain of Oriental-Polynesian restaurants, this one has excellent hors d’oeuvres (try the “Cosmo Tidbit” platter), a fine limestone lettuce salad, and well-prepared entrees. We suggest the curries, the almond duck, lobster Cantonese, or the Indonesian lamb roast. Exotic and powerful rum concoctions. (Hilton Inn, 5600 N Cen Expwy/827-3620/Daily 5-11:30 p.m., weekends till midnight/Reservations/ All credit cards/$$$)



Mexican

Adelante. An odd little spot in an almost secretive behind-the-shopping-center location. But once you find it, you’ll surely find your way back. Fantastic and unique Mexican food graced with flair and freshness. Thin, grease-tinged tostados made on the spot, nachos buried in fresh relishes, flau-tas with fabulous guacamole, delicate green chile quiche, and an egg and tortilla dish called “chila-quiles” – both subtle and exotic. And don’t pass up the unbelievable praline cheesecake. Bar “by membership.” (5934 Royal Lane/691-8301/Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-9 p.m.. Fri & Sat till 10 p.m., closed Sun/No reservations/MC,BA,AE/$)

Chlquita. The reputation for greatness here was not built on consistency – Chiquita is sometimes lovely, sometimes lousy. The Tex-Mex has never been sublime, but on a good day the chiles relle-nos are generously stuffed and the steak dishes are usually a good bet – try the filete a la Chiquita and ask tor the special garlic sauce. The trimmings are always nice – a good complimentary bean soup, and great chicken-sour cream nachos, (3325 Oak Lawn/ 521-0721/ Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m./ No reservations/ MC.BA.AE/ $$)

Herrera Cafe. Home-cooked Tex-Mex from two odd locations. The ludicrous-looking newer version on Lemmon Avenue serves the same great food as the original adobe hole-in-the-wall on Maple. But at the Lemmon location, quality is not a certainty. Visit Maple for good old fat flour tortillas hot oft the grill, wonderful burritos, great guacamole. And the menudo is a community tradition. (3902 Ma-ple/526-9427/Weekdays 9 a.m.-8 p.m.. weekends till 10: closed Tue/3708 Lemmon/’528-2250/Daily 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri & Sat till 10 p.m.. closed Mon/ No reservations/No credit cards/$)

Raphael’s. All in all, Dallas’ best Mexican restaurant – and oh the crowds to prove it. From puffed ta-cos to shrimp enchiladas you can’t go wrong, but take note that the chicken-sour cream enchiladas are the best in town. A lovely old place with warm, wooden, ranchero style. (3701 McKinney/521-9640/Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.. Sat noon-10:30, closed Sun/Reservations Mon-Thur only/MC.BA,AE/$$)

El Taxco. Maybe the best dining value in Dallas Dependable Tex-Mex right down to the retried beans just the way they ought to be – and at very low prices. A subtle style with less hot seasonings make it an especially good spot for newcomers to Mexican food. A casual, friendly cafe. (2126 N St Paul/742-0747/Wed-Mon 10:30 am-9 p.m.. closed Tue/No reservations/MC/$)



Greek

Goldtlnger. In the limited realm of Greek cuisine in Dallas, Goldfinger serves some of the best. But still, this is as much a nightclub (live music with belly dancing) as it is a restaurant and the food is only good, not great The combination dinner of souvlaki and large charcoaled shrimp is nice and rack of lamb is the house specialty. And the dol-mas are great. (2905 Cridelle/350-6983/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2: Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11. Fri & Sat till midnight/Reservations on weekends/MC.BA. AE.DC/$$)



D REVISITS

Greek Key. Dining at this longstanding Dallas favorite is still a lively experience. Enthusiastic folk dancers get the clientele into the act, and you can expect the belly dancer to sashay her veils and what not around the table, all tor fun. But what goes on in the kitchen is serious. The Greek specialties – dolmas, pastitso, spanak-opeta, and moussaka – are excellent. It it’s all Greek to you, try the combination plate. We suggest you forgo the Grecian shrimp which is a disappointment, with nothing distinctive in the preparation or the seasoning. Lamb Kapama, which isn’t on the menu at all. is the chef’s special (being served on a trial basis, and it’s wonderful), fork-tender lamb braised in a thick dark sauce, served with rice and lemon-seasoned vegetables. Ask your waiter. Baklava delicately flavored with walnuts and honey, and a demi-tasse of heavy Greek coffee, and you’ll want to emigrate. The menu also otters steak, veal, and seafood for the timid American palate. The noontime buttet has been discontinued in favor of a luncheon special (veal Parmesan on a recent visit) and a smaller version of the dinner menu While Dallas still surfers from a surprising dearth of fine Greek food (ah. to be able to walk across the street and grab a real gyros sandwich), the Greek Key at least does a creditable job of filling the void. (2930 W Northwest Hwy/358-5177/Mon-Sat 11 am-2 p.m.. closed Sun/All credit cards/Reservations’$$)

Indian

India House. An authentic representation of Indian cuisine. The uninitiated may find it all a bit exotic – but a culture shock made pleasant by the helpful guidance of the staff (or try the Shahl House Dinner for a broad sampling) Aficionados of the Indian tradition may find the preparation lacking perfection, but with so much to choose from, danger of disappointment is slight. Something is sure to please – or at least to surprise (5422 E Mockingbird/823-WOO/Lunch: Daily 11 30-2:30; Dinner Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11/ Reservations /All credit cards/$$)



Southern Specialties



Angelo’s / Fort Worth. A name that’s known across the state as one of Texas’ premiere barbecue pits And it is. Great beef, rich spicy sauce, big sandwiches, cold draught, and a setting that fits – West Texas rustic and sawdust floors And overlooking the proceedings is a monstrous stuffed bear – a landmark himself (2533 White Settlement Rd/ (817)332-0357/ Mon-Sat 11-10/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)

Calebration. Some of the homestyle pride seems occasionally to be missing from the homestyle cooking since the expansion of this friendly place But still a good spot tor a wholesome meal at a reasonable price Pot roast is the best of the five entrees. Plus big bowls of good family-style-help-yourself vegetables Beer and wine are available now, but try the apple juice at least once – it’s great (4503 W Lovers Ln/ 351-5681/ Mon-Sat 5:30-11, Sun till 10:30/ No reservations/ MC.BA/ $)

Mr. Chicken. Many rate it the best fried chicken in town. Small town cafe style (including TV). Chicken and dumplings and other plate lunches; grilled steaks And luscious onion rings Beer only (5114 Greenville Ave near Lovers Ln/363-6969/Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m./No reservations/No credit cards/$)

Red Moon Cato. A charming and romantic little European-cafe setting helps hide the consistently inconsistent kitchen But when they’re on, the featured Creole cooking (more Spanish than French in influence) can be a treat. Open for breakfasts trimmed with grits and biscuits. (4537 Cole/526-5391 /Mon-Sat 7-2:30, 6-10/No reservations/No credit cards/$$)

Sonny Bryan’s. Best barbecue in town? You’ll never get a consensus, but this one gets a lot of votes Juicy, juicy stuff in a funky, funky little smokehouse No tables – you eat on individual school desk tops Beer, no bar. (2202 lnwood/357-7120/Mon-Sat 6 am-6:30 p.m., Sun 11-2/No reservations/No credit cards/$)



Seafood

Oporto Oyster Bar. A somewhat unpredictable place (the service is sometimes perfect, sometimes miserable), but if you go with the simpler broiled dishes, especially the Boston scrod and the baby flounder, you’ll surely be pleased. Often crowded to the point of a wait in line One reason is that the oysters on the half shell are, predictably, wonderful. (2929 N Henderson/826-2553/Daily 5-11 p. m., Fri & Sat till midnight/No reservations/BA, AE/$$)

S & D Oyater Company. A handsomely restored 19th century livery/ grocery building with brick walls and bentwood chairs lending themselves to a mild New Orleans atmosphere. Oysters are the specialty – delicious whether on the half-shell or fried Also boiled or fried shrimp, a pleasant gumbo, and broiled flounder or snapper. Beer and wine only. A welcome addition to the limited sea fare in town. (2701 McKinney near Routh/ 823-6350/ Mon-Thur 11 a m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun/ No reservations/ MC/ $$)

Vahon’a. An unpretentious oyster bar that grew into a schlocky restaurant, Vehon’s still serves the best oysters in town, giant red Spanish shrimp, baked (not broiled) rainbow trout, catfish, and – a rarity in Dallas – a properly black, hot gumbo Casual to the point of crudeness, but there are lots who love it. (4844 Greenville Ave/368-8911/Mon-Sat 11 a. m.-11 p.m., Sun 5-11 p.m./ No reservations /All credit cards/$$)



Natural Foods



Arjun’s. Low-keyed and attractive surroundings for imaginative food that’s good for you. The hot entree changes daily, and it’s usually excellent, but they always have delicious, huge, unwieldy avocado sandwiches, generous fresh fruit and vegetable salads, good soups, and custom-made smoothies (4220 Oak Lawn/526-4050/Mon-Fri 11-3, 5-9; Sat 11 -9/No reservations/No credit cards/$)



Delicatessens



Black Forest. Austrian-style food – sausages, sa-lamis, coffee cakes, breads, a lovely cold cut platter, and excellent sandwiches. Try the veal sausages with hash browns and black bread, and any o( the pastries. Excellent selection of German beers and wines. (5819 Blackwell off E Northwest Hwy/368-4490/Mon-Fri 8 a.m.-6 p.m.. Sat till 5 p. m. /No reservations/BA/$)

Kuby’s. Busy, bustling, with excellent homemade sausages (served with hot potato salad or sauerkraut), thick sandwiches (try the pastrami), great pastries, and a soup o( the day which is a lunch-time bargain (70?). A congenial spot with a German accent. (6601 Snider Plaza/ 363-2231/ Mon-Sat 8:30-2:30, sandwiches till 5:30/ No reservations/ MC – $15 minimum/$)

Walls. A worthwhile stop Jor displaced New Yorkers and insatiable corned beef fans, though its reputation as the best for kosner-style food in Dallas is earned mainly by default The kosher standards – gefilte fish, herring in sour cream, cheese blintzes – are very tasty, but the quality of food and service is uneven. Except for the disappointing chopped liver, sandwiches are the best bet And try the outstanding cabbage soup. (10749 Preston Rd/691-4444/ Daily 7:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m./ MC, BA/SS)

Steaks, Burgers, Etc.



Cattleman’s Fort Worth. A famous Texas name that still delivers, and still from iis original location right in the heart of the stockyards. The steaks are the thing here and they’re terrific – you can watch them being cooked on the grills at the end of each dining room. Lots of other options, ranging from calf fries (“Mountain Oysters”) to lobster and spaghetti. (2458 N. Main/ (817)824-3945/ Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-10:45 p.m.. Sat 4-10:45 p.m., closed Sun/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE,DC,CB/$$)

Chill’s. A handsome burger joint Good chili, unusual soft tacos of flour tortillas, and, best of all, long, thin, greasy trench fries with ;he skin still on them. Always hopping – you’ll likely wait in line. (7567 Greenville Ave at Meadow Rd/361 -4371 /Daily 11 a.m.-midnight, Fri & Sat till 2 a.m./No reserva-tions/MC,8A.AE/$)

The Den. A distinctive spot in the venerable old Stoneleigh Hotel with a convivial clientele of various professional types – like a seasoned Upper East Side bar. Terrific cheeseburgers, a great prime rib sandwich, chef’s specials. Dallas’ best bartending. And free popcorn (2927 Maple/742-711 1 /Restaurant: Mon-Fri 6 am.-9 p.m., Sat & Sun 6 a.m-1 a.m.; Bar: Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-midnight, closed Sat & Sun/MC,DC,AE,CB/$$)

The Filling Station. The last word on motif dining. An old gas station transformed into a restaurant. Automobile paraphernalia abounds, gas pumps dispense beer at the bar, and the Mobil flying horse hovers over it all. “Ethyl.” “Regular,” and “Low Lead” (no bun) hamburgers. No kidding (6862 Greenville Ave near Park Lane/691-4488/Tue-Sat 11 a.m.-1 a.m., Sun & Mon till midnight/No reser-vations/MC,BA,AE/$)

Houlihan’s. If you want it, they’ve probably got it. From escargots to cheeseburgers, from crab Newburg to Belgian waffles, from omelettes to roast duck, from crepes to steak. And, considering the range, the overall quality is surprisingly good. Antique clutter motif. Often long lines. (4 NorthPark East/361-9426/Daily 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m./No reser-vations/MC,BA,AE,DC/$$)

Ichabod’t. Slick in the Greenville Avenue tradition, but Ichabod’s is nevertheless a very pleasant and dependable place. The key to their success is a limited menu of steaks and seafood with nothing so elaborate that the kitchen staff can’t handle it. There are a few nicely imaginative touches, like a “relish tray” of raw fresh vegetables instead of a tired salad. A nice dining area with its own entrance to separate it from the teeming swingles bar. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/691-2646/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily 6-11/No reser-vations/MC,BA,AE,DC,CB/$$)

Klrby’t. Dallas’ original steakhouse and time has only enhanced its appeal. No gimmicks, waitresses of the old school, and good food values The “special cut” sirloin strip is big and beautiful and the creamy garlic house dressing is alone enough for some fans. (3715 Greenville/823-7296/Tue-Sun 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$)



D REVISITS

Railhead. Several years ago, a brilliantly foresighted entrepre- neur glued together some old railroad boxcars at the obscure corner of Greenville Avenue and Park Lane, polished them up, and started serving steaks and prime rib inside of them. Its success was immediate and immense. While all around it there burst a voracious new world of restaurants, some good, some atrocious, the Railhead managed to hold firm with consistent performance – you could always count on the Railhead. Alas, all things run their course and it seems that lately the Railhead has run off the track. The menu has been periodically expanded over the years; at first the additions were inspired, now they can be closer to insipid. The beef tournedos, for example, was, on recent visits, laced with gristle under a gooey bearnaise. The steak and chicken teriyaki, often a delight, was sticky and dull. The artichokes were mushy and tasteless. But here’s the real disappointment: prime rib has always been the mainstay of this restaurant – juicy, tender slabs of prime rib at its best. But at one recent sampling the portions were smaller than usual, cooked past specifications, and served cold. On the next visit, we were informed that there wasn’t any prime rib that night at all. Even the service, which once only suffered from too much joviality, now is occasionally flip and rude. This restaurant has too much going for it to be allowed to fall to a level of mediocrity. A little renewed effort could put this depot back in order. (6919 Twin Hills Ave at Park Ln/369-8700/Lunch: Daily 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thu 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5-11:30, Sun, 5-10:30; bar till 2 a.m. nightly/Reservations on weekends before 7 p.m. and after 10:30 p.m. only/MC.BA, AE/$$$)

StoneMgh P. An Oak Lawn favorite and eclectic hangout. A restoration of what was long a pharmacy – clever but not cutesy. Provolone cheeseburgers on pumpernickel are the favorite among many goodies. Great magazine rack (browsing encouraged) and fabulous juke box (from Bach to Stones). (2926 Maple/741-0824/Mon-Thur 11:15-midnight, Fri & Sat till 1:30 a.m., Sun 12-12; bar daily till 1 a.m., Fri & Sat till 2/No reservations/No credit cards/$)

Strictly Ta-Bu. A terrific old neighborhood bar with a mixed bag clientele. The original 1948 decor has been virtually untouched and charms with its classy-tacky effect. Great homemade soups and sometimes great pizza-the kitchen is rather erratic lately. Also burgers, steaks, sandwiches. Live jazz most nights and an occasional tree flick (4111 Lomo Alto/526-9325/Mon-Fri 5 p.m.-2 a.m.. Sat 6 p.m.-2 a.m.. Sun 6 p.m.-1 a.m./ No reservations/ MC,BA/$$)

T.G.I. Friday’s. This may be Dallas’ junk food paradise – if junk food means luscious hamburgers (still among the best in town), a munchy concoction called “nacholupas,” the biggest chef’s salad you’ll ever see, and even rhubarb pie. Good steak bargains; avoid the omelettes. The place is lively as ever, with lots of swingles and a little of everything else (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/363-5353/Daily 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m./No reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$)



Mainly For Lunch



The Bronx. A surprisingly quiet little spot amidst the Cedar Springs sideshow The tare is simple but stylish: for example, a plate of bagels and lox with red onions and cream cheese or a pretty omelette with a bagel and a side of terrific Italian sausage Atmosphere (rustic and woody) but without coming on too strong Beer (lots of imports) and wine only. (3835 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn/ 521-5821/ Daily 11:30 am.-12:30 a.m., bar till 2/ No reservations/ MC/ $$)

Clro’s. Great Sicilian-style pizza and an attractive array of elaborate sandwiches in an airy, old-time corner store at McKinney and Hall. The “wine bar” serves fine wines by the glass, the beers include some nice imports, and there’s a great hard apple cider with a real kick. (3237 McKinney at Hail/745-9464/Mon-Wed 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Thur & Fri till midnight, Sat till 1 a.m., closed Sun/No reserva-tions/MC/$S)

La Creperle. The courtyard patio under Cinzano umbrellas provides the nicest al fresco dining in Dallas. (There are inside tables for winter or rain.) The crfipes are hefty one-per-serving size, in 47 varieties, including several ratatouille and several creamed spinach versions (#13 – spinach, Italian sausage, and mushrooms). For a different dessert, try their “tortillions.” (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/651-0506/ Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-10 p.m.. closed Sun/ Reservations recommended/ MC.BA, DC.AE/ $$)

Gallery Buffet. An expertly catered buffet table at the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, featuring hearty soups, salads, homemade breads, and desserts for only $2.50. Wine extra. (DMFA, Fair Park/421-4187/Tue-Fri 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m./No reservations/No credit cards/$)

The Lunch Basket Tearoom. Bright and cozy Homemade lunches with unusual salads and soups, and homemade tea breads that you can also buy by the loaf. Foreign blend coffees and teas (66/7 Snider Plaza, Studio 216/ 369-3241/ Mon-Sat 10 a.m.S p.m./ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)

Magic Pan. A very popular place with a delicious selection of crepes, including outstanding dessert crepes. Very crowded during the week, but nice for Sunday brunch or late night after-theater snacks. (NorthPark – New Mall/692-7574/Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-midnight, Fri till 1 a.m.. Sat 10 a.m.-1 a.m.. Sun 10 a.m.-midnight/No res-ervations/MC,BA,AE,DC/$$)

Upper Crust. Homestyle specialties like chicken & dumplings and red beans & rice, plus wonderful buttermilk pie and a great buttermilk salad dressing. Also sandwiches and homemade soups. A casual “indoor courtyard” setting. (Olla Podrida, 12215 Coit Rd/661-5738/Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3; Dinner: Thur only, 5:30-8:30/No reservations/No credit cards/$)

Zodiac Room. A stunning effect with salads ashandsome as they are tasty, and an irresistible array of desserts – including their famous strawberry shortcake. Always crowded. Wine and beer(Neiman-Marcus, downtown/ 741-6911/ Mon-Sat10:30 am -2:30 p.m.; teatime daily 3-5 p.m. except Thur 2:30-3:30; Thur dinner 5-7 p.m./Reser-vations/Neiman-Marcus charge card only, checksaccepted/$$)

Related Articles

Image
Arts & Entertainment

Here’s Who Is Coming to Dallas This Weekend: March 28-31

It's going to be a gorgeous weekend. Pencil in some live music in between those egg hunts and brunches.
Image
Arts & Entertainment

Arlington Museum of Art Debuts Two Must-See Nature-Inspired Additions

The chill of the Arctic Circle and a futuristic digital archive mark the grand opening of the Arlington Museum of Art’s new location.
By Brett Grega
Image
Arts & Entertainment

An Award-Winning SXSW Short Gave a Dallas Filmmaker an Outlet for Her Grief

Sara Nimeh balances humor and poignancy in a coming-of-age drama inspired by her childhood memories.
By Todd Jorgenson
Advertisement