Food and Spirits DINING OUT

Entree

Cafe Olé

Including all of the Taco Bells, Taco Casas, Taco Patios, Taco Spots, and Taco Buenos, there may be 200 places around Dallas to eat Mexican food. Mexico City probably can’t even make that claim. But there is really only one kind of place to eat Mexican food, as far as I’m concerned. The Mexican cafes. Actually, “cafe” is not a telling word. “Dump” is closer to the point. It’s been my experience that the less chance a place has to remain standing in a strong wind, the better the Mexican food.

Nopalitos, at 2818 Harry Hines, has a nifty brick facade. This is deceptive – behind the brick it’s just another delightful dump. There is also a spiffy neon-tube-scripted sign in the window saying “Nopalitos.” Nopalito means “little cactus.” Cactus is not the specialty of the house. The other neon sign in the window says “Cabrito.” Cabrito is the specialty of the house. Cabrito means goat. Cabrito is served here in the form of boiled ribs. If boiled goat ribs don’t sound particularly good, they don’t look particularly good either. The rib bones themselves are small and square (Who would ever guess that goats have square bones?). The meat is dark with a purplish-red tone and looks stringy. It’s not – just very, very tender. There is a distinctive undertaste, but the overall effect is really not exotic – if you didn’t know, you might think you were eating pot roast. But you do know, so it tastes like goat.

The standard Mexican fare at Nopali-tos is good but not thrilling (the flour tortillas, the tamales, and the rice are their best efforts). And besides a pair of wrought iron fighting roosters and a large painted turkey platter, there’s not much of the usual Border crapola to ad-mire. The eyecatcher instead was our waiter/host – he was the only employ-be we saw in the place – who arrived at the table wearing a postman’s shirt. Curious.

“You’re not really a mailman are you?” I asked.

“Yes.”

“Oh, so you’re just here helping out on your lunch break, huh?”

“No, I’m just here just because.”

“Oh.”

Just to the south, over the hill, at 2718 Harry Hines is Cuquita’s. Cuquita’s too has a brick facade (with a cactus and the hours painted next to the door), but this one is not even deceptive. Stretching visibly behind is a very long, very narrow, very tipsy, yellow frame | dump. If you have any doubts as to the category, you’ll be convinced when the front doorknob comes loose in your hand. Eating in Cuquita’s is like eating in a plywood paneled trailer house – there are booths on either side and a narrow walkway in between. All the basics are offered, but the only things exceptional are the luncheon special prices – in the $1.60 range and a bargain. The big item here is the chiles rellenos plate: Two chiles (one stuffed with meat, one with cheese) plus trimmings for only $2.45. And delicious.

Again the decor is a little disappointing (there are a few black velvet paintings but only of bullfighters – none of the raunchy classics like the busty border babes or The Devil with a hypo in hand). But the clientele – another prized feature of the dump circuit – is enough to look at. The other three occupied tables on this visit included a trio of hipsters dressed with great effort in furry vests and head scarves, a pair of three-pieced businessmen off on a lunchtime adventure (“Can you be-lieeeeeve this place?”), and an elderly and impoverished Mexican couple obviously appreciative of $1.60. An insider’s note: there is another unnoticeable dining room in back (take a left past the cash register), the room that would ordinarily be called the “banquet room.” Let’s just call it another dining room.

Rositas’s, 4906 Maple, occupies what apparently used to be a 7-Eleven or e other convenience grocery. Sturdy, but still funky. If that doesn’t catch your eye, the painted-over sign that once identified the grocery will. “MEXICAN FOOD. We specialize in Mexican Food.” There doesn’t seem to be a house specialty, but the food in general is quite good. A #8 will get you a meaty enchilada, a plump juicy taco, and a nice soft cheese taco for $1.90. And for entertainment, there’s a gallery of plaster trinketry, including a plaster “LOVE,” a plaster Aztec calendar, a plaster Last Supper, and a huge plaster lion on top of the cigarette machine. Again, though, it was a little difficult to get a handle on the place.

“Do you serve beer here?” I asked our waitress.

“No. But we can get you some from next door.”

“Are you Rosita?”

“No.”

“Is there a Rosita?”

“Yes.”

“Is she in the kitchen?”

“No, she’s my daughter.”

“Oh.”

“My husband is in the kitchen.”

“Oh, so you just used your daughter’s name to name the place, huh?”

“No. She owns it.”

At 2210 Butler, a few blocks off Maple, is the Escondido Restaurant. It looks like a rock-bottom beer joint, which is what it used to be. The sign indicates parking for “Costumers Only,” but we went in anyway. The front room is typical cafe-dump, but the back room is where you’ll want to be. You’ll have to make two physical adjustments – to the smell of disinfectant (you’ll get used to it) and to the darkness (it’s like a dungeon back here). After your eyes make the transition, the motif will be clear: Nuevo Bandito. The walls are covered with wanted posters for Francisco (Pancho) Villa and other assorted desperadoes. Even the menu is designed as a bounty poster. And the ceiling tile looks like a graffitied subway wall. But that’s where the eccentricities end. When it comes to the food, this place is solid. The kitchen here believes passionately in cheese: the nachos are literally heavy with the stuff and the excellent soft cheese tacos are stuffed full with it. But the star of the plate is the meat taco: a greasy-fried shell version with great meat filling – the best taco I’ve encountered in a long time. A word of warning: the hot sauce here is green – that’s because it’s pure, unadulterated, ground jalapenos. Only in a dump.

– David Bauer



Newcomers

Andrew’s. Most of the menu (it’s really more like a book) is taken up by elaborate descriptions and four color drawings of the exotic drinks served here (Example: Full Sail – cherry brandy, apricot brandy, rum, cranberry juice, orange juice, and sour mix!). Which indicates that Andrew’s is really more of a bar than a restaurant. But if you like a good drink (or two) with your lunch or if you like to munch royally when you drink, this is a great new gathering spot. The place is built around the interior courtyard of a distinctive old building at the corner of McKinney and Hall, handsomely refurbished with lots of wood and brick (the courtyard itself should make a delightful warm weather terrace). The food is better-than-average bar food: Burgers, of course (the best is the blue cheese and bacon burger); knackwurst and bratwurst sandwiches; a “house specialty” of crabmeat salad served open-faced on a toasted bun; an assorted cheese plate; and something called “artichoke nibbles” – a catchy (but overpriced) baked cheese and artichoke souffle cut into little squares. Maybe the best feature of all is the impressive selection of imported beers – try the hefty Elephant Malt Liquor from Denmark or the Anchor Steam from a tiny brewery in San Francisco. Live entertainment – usually a solo singer/guitarist – most nights. (3301 McKinney at Hall/526-9501/Daily 11:30 a.m. – 2 a.m. / No reservations MC,BA,AE/$$)

Crackers. It’s nice to see that someone in the restaurant business can still show restraint. Ever since that fateful day when some guy first put tables inside a railroad car, it’s been a mad Disneyesque dash for the gaudy and the gimmick. If Crackers has a gimmick, it is that they make their own little cheese crackers. Otherwise this is a refreshingly straightforward restaurant. Set in an old house on lower McKinney, the place is mildly decorated – in fact, closer to sparse than spectacle. It seems the operation is geared more toward lunch than dinner – if only because the lunch menu has everything the dinner menu has and more. Neither is extensive. Neither is splashy. But what is served is served well. Highlights have been a wonderful quiche Lorraine (rich and creamy with gourmandise cheese), a fine split pea soup (none of the mealy texture that usually ruins his soup), and a luxurious “Hamburger Canadian” (an 8-oz. chopped sirloin with Canadian bacon, cheese, and fresh garnishes). There are also salads, sandwiches, and omelettes; specialty dishes include chicken baked in an orange sauce with sesame seeds and a beef burgundy – neither is extraordinary, but both are nicely portioned and priced. (2621 Mc-Kinney Ave/827-1660/Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat till midnight; closed Sun/Reservations for weekday dinner only/MC, BA/$$)

Everybody’s Kosher. This is not a great restaurant – but it will probably be a great success. What this is is a pretty good restaurant with a very good idea – a wide-ranging “Kosher” menu served 24 hours a day in a neighborhood that needs it. The menu is a four-page monster – from gefilte fish to blueberry blintz. We’ve only begun to sample, but scattershooting through the menu has found most items satisfactory but rarely special (the kitchen seems still to be finding their way – and they run out of things a lot). For example, the lox and cream cheese on bagel was nice but no knockout; the pastrami on rye was generous (it ought to be at $2.75) but too lean and lifeless; the stuffed kish-ka was light and tasty, better than average; the stuffed cabbage was dry and uninteresting, less than average; the potato knish was large but sluggish; the potato pancakes are nicely crisp and greasy. The soups are quite good, including an unusual borscht (creamy and sweet) and an interesting lima bean soup. But the highlights of a meal here come at the beginning and end: the complimentary basket of thinly sliced bagels with butter is a great touch and the dessert selection isbeautiful, crowned by superb cheesecake. There is also a breakfast page(served midnight to 11:30 a.m.) with15 omelettes or eggs with salmon orsturgeon. And much more, including asmattering of distinctly non-Kosheritems like cheeseburgers, chow mein,and fried chicken. The place itself is acutesy evocation of New York thatlooks like nothing in New York: theentryway is a bright and shiny subway car, the dining room is garnishedas a backstage alleyway but looks likea stage set. But no matter – there arealready waiting lines to get in. Beerand wine “by membership.” (8405Pickwick Lane in Preston Center/691-0923/24 hours daily/No reserva-tions/MC,BA,AE/$$)

A la Carte

Bagelstein’s is easy to miss if you’re not looking in just the right place. It’s hidden in the Northwood Hills Shopping Center, in the southeast quadrant at Coit and Spring Valley.

On an average weekend, Bagelstein’s sells from 800 to 1,000 dozen bagels. That’s 6,000 bagels a day. Pumpernickel, egg, garlic, salt, onion, plain, even raisin.

Bagels by the thousands require an assembly-line approach and Larry Goldstein knows the science of bagel-making: mix the dough, let it rest and rise, shape the bagels, refrigerate them, boil the bagels, bake them, and sell them. But the fine points of bagel-making are an art, one not lost on Larry: the dough must be allowed to rest after it is mixed – otherwise the yeast can be overworked, and the dough too tough; sometypes of bagel dough, such as pumpernickel, need longer periods of refrigeration to achieve proper firmness; thetemperature of the water must be maintained at an even 220° Fahrenheit orthe all-important step of boiling is useless; and finally, the bagels must bebaked longer on the second side than onthe first. You didn’t know that, did you?

There is much at Bagelstein’s to accompany your bagels: deli meats andcheeses are placed between two bagelhalves for delectable sandwiches; potatosalad is nice on the side; try some herring or cream cheese and lox. And, by allmeans, leave room for the cheesecake,flown in from New York and worth every calorie. (Northwood Hills ShoppingCenter, Coit at Spring Valley/234- 3787/Mon-Thur 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m.; Fri & Sat’till 10 p.m.; Sun till 7 p.m.)

Recipe

Strawberry Crepe Supreme

The Magic Pan in NorthPark is part of a chain operation of crêpe makers that stretches from the original location in San Francisco to the newest one (number 50) recently opened near New Orleans. The Dallas Magic Pan has served more than its fair share of these crêpes: in a single day, 2,100 customers were served, a nationwide record for the chain. To keep up with the clientele, 110 employees staff the Magic Pan.

The Magic Pan menu offers 23 variations on the crepe theme. High on the list of most-favored dessert crepe is the Strawberry Crêpe Supreme, a blend of freshness and sweetness made with sour cream and strawberries. You can substitute any other fresh fruit (or vegetable, cheese, or meat fillings) and, armed with the basic crepe recipe provided here, create your own crêpes.

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups milk

3 eggs

pinch of salt

1/2 cup oil or melted butter (for frying)

Sift the flour and salt together into a mixing bowl. Add eggs and mix together thoroughly (the mixture will form a thick paste). Add milk gradually and beat thoroughly until the mixture is smooth. The batter will have the consistency of heavy cream. Let batter stand for 2 hours before using.

Brush a hot crêpe pan with the butter or oil. Pour in approximately l 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of batter, depending upon the size of the pan. Tip the pan to coat it with a thin layer of batter. When the crêpe is golden brown (about 1 minute) turn it and brown the other side. Continue cooking crêpes, adding oil or butter to the pan when needed. Makes 12 to 14 crêpes, 6 to 6 1/2 inches in diameter.



Strawberry filling:



6 cups sliced fresh strawberries

6 whole strawberries for garnish

3/4 cup brown sugar

1 cup sour cream

powdered sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar

6 cooked crepes



For best results, slice the berries nomore than an hour or two ahead of serving time. It is important not to bruisethe berries or allow them to get mushy.Toss the sliced berries very gently with 3/4 cup brown sugar. At serving time,place 1 cup of sliced sweetened strawberries in center of each crepe. Top eachserving with 2 tablespoons of sourcream. Fold sides of crepe over center toenclose filling. Sprinkle a little powdered sugar over the filled crepes. Topeach with 1 tablespoon sour cream.Sprinkle 1 teaspoon brown sugar overeach serving and top with a wholestrawberry. Six servings.

Dining

Directory

These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit then, that we recommend all of them highly. The star ratings only serve to point up restaurants of special significance.

★ – Indicates a best-of-the-offbeat restaurant, a place with unique and unusual appeal.

★★ – Indicates a restaurant worthy of special note, which has proved consistently to be one of the best of its kind.

★★★ – Indicates overall excellence, one of the city’s superior restaurants.



These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general price range.

$ – Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ – Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ – Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $10 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.

$$$$ – Very expensive.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC – Master Charge/BA – Bank Americard/AE – American Express/DC – Diner’s Club/CB – Carte Blanche/”AII Credit Cards’ indicates that all the above are accepted.



Continental



★★Arthur’s. Once a rustic steakhouse, now a shimmering beef palace. Steak remains the pillar operation, but other options abound: lamb chops, veal chops, and calf’s liver to name a few favorites. American wines only – an intriguing and imaginative touch. Warm and classy with one of Dallas’ best bars. Live entertainment. (1000 Campbell Centre/361 -8833/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

Bagatelle. A charming, low-keyed restaurant under the watchful care of a gracious owner/host. A change of chef has left the kitchen less dependable than before, but veal is still the specialty of the house – try the veal escalopes “Vieux Chalet.” Start with the shrimp du chef (fried shrimp in a garlic sauce) and finish with the strawberries flavored with Grand Marnier. A cozy bar with good jazz. (One Energy Square/Greenville Ave at Universi-ty/692-8224/Lunch: Daily 1130-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-10. Fri & Sat till 11; Bar till 1:30 a.m. nightly/Reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$$)

The Balcony/ Fort Worth. It’s not often that you find food like this at prices like this – a bargain in French cuisine. A nicely varied menu of entrees, including a delicious trout amandine. An odd but tasty touch: miniature egg rolls served gratis. It’s not without fault – the salads tend to be limp and the soups are suspect. A pleasant country-resort feeling – easy-going but gracious. (6100 Camp Bowie/ (817)713-3719/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 10:30; closed Sun/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/ $$)

Le Bistro. A gracefully restored old house with dining rooms upstairs and down marked by a quiet, unadorned charm. The menu is classically French both in style and selection, bursting with promise. But in execution, the kitchen has proved capable of both brilliance and disappointment. Service is highly polished, efficient but not ebullient. (3716 Bowser, just off Oak Lawn/528-4181/Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 6-10 p.m.; Sat & Sun 6-10 p. m./ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/$$$)

Le Bistro/Fort Worth. Authentic French cooking in a restaurant low in atmosphere but high in personal care. Papa Henri executes with talent his own varied and distinctive menu (dinner selection ranges from Eggs Benedict to frog legs Provencale to medallions of veal; at lunch, try his crepes) and daughter Michelle serves it up with unassuming charm. Extensive wine list. (No relation to Le Bistro in Dallas.) (3322 Camp Bowie/ (817)332-5102/ Brunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2, Dinner: Tue-Sat 5:30-9:30/ Reservations/ MC,BA/ $$$)

Brasserie. The most elegant “coffee shop” in town. In the wee hours of the morning (they’re open 24 hours), stop by to treat yourself to Dallas’ best Eggs Benedict – sprinkled with truffles (at 3 a.m. they bother?), or a sandwich of sirloin on crisp, buttery French bread. During the other hours, especially lunch, the fare is mostly overpriced and undistinguished. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Ak-ard/748-5454/24 hours, seven days a week/No reservations/MC, BA,AE. DC/$$)

D REVISITS

Brennan’s. There are certain restaurants whose reputation sets you up for a special dining experience. Brennan’s, of New Orleans heritage and national fame, is one of those. The Dallas version unfortunately exemplifies the problems that can arise when a family enterprise goes big-time. Brennan’s offers a menu of enormous promise, and the allure of dining downtown surrounded by brocade and mirrored walls is irresistible. But an underachieving kitchen and inattentive staff can dim the overall enjoyment (dirty tablecloths and spotted silver are not what one would expect in a restaurant like this). The dinner menu is heavy with Creole French seafood fare, supplemented by veal, steak and fowl dishes. Most are prepared seemingly by rote, with little flair for seasoning and texture. The turtle soup is richly satisfying, but appetizers are hit or miss – the traditional oysters Rockefeller and Bien-ville are passable, the escargots an insult to the noble creepers. But fortunately “Breakfast at Brennan’s” can still be a dining event. There is something uplifting about dressing up to go downtown for a leisurely and luxurious morning meal The specialties, of course, are poached eggs served with a variety of complements and usually topped with Hollandaise. The kitchen seems more in control here, and everything is tasty (though it is not uncommon tor the eggs to be served a trifle cold). If you don’t mind paying for it, Brennan’s for breakfast can still provide the pleasant illusion of dining like the idle rich. (One Main Place/747-1911/Breakfast & lunch: 7-2:30 weekdays, 8-2:30 weekends; Dinner: Daily 6-10, till 11 weekends/Reservations/All credit cards $$$)

Calluaud. One of Dallas’ most civilized restaurants. Set in a small frame house, with a casual yet intimate atmosphere complemented by consistently fine French foods. Superb soups and excellent omelettes; and desserts not to be missed: simple and wonderful fruit tarts (try the apple) and exquisite profiteroles. The imaginative dinner menu changes frequently but has provided such items as a perfectly prepared fresh salmon steak and roast pork in a prune sauce. Prices are a bargain for the quality. It’s easy to get hooked on this place. (2917 Fairmount off Cedar Springs/ 745-9571/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30. Sal till 11, closed Sun/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/ $$$)

Carriage House/ Fort Worth. One of the oldest names in Fort Worth dining, the Carriage House is not the wonder it once was, but it still has its moments. It’s a meal of ups and downs: tine old-plantation-style service but in a drab setting; excellent appetizers (have their splendid smoked salmon) but miserable soups; a tine Chateaubriand (beet dishes are their specialty) but served with canned peas and carrots. (5236 Camp Bowie/ (817)732-2873/ Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/ $$$)

Chablis. Satisfying rather than sensational, dependable rather than dazzling, Chablis has quietly established a loyal clientele, particularly at lunch. A nice variety of regional French specialties with popular daily specials. Excellent quiche, salads, and sandwiches. And don’t pass up the apple pie with brandy butter. An attractive, low-key place. (120 Quadrangle. 2800 Routh/522-0910/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat till midnight; closed Sun/Reservations on weekends/MC,BA,AE/$$$)

Chateaubriand. A long-time Dallas fixture whose popularity survives in spite of a loud clash of styles including a glossy, almost garish, French provincial dining room with marble statues and chandeliers. The international menu sweeps from “Greek Veal” to “Pepper Steak – Hawaiian Style.” Many steaks and shellfish. Bargain daily hot luncheon specials. (3515 McKinney/ 741-1223/ Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/$$$)

The Chimney. A Swiss/Austrian style characterizes this kitchen and gives this restaurant some special appeal. The Naturschnitzel is a tine veal dish, as is the veal Zurich. For a twist, try the venison tournedos. Lunch is still served in the tearoom tradition that originally established The Chimney. The dining room is American colonial in motif – handsome but a bit lifeless. (Willowcreek, 9739 N Cen Expwy at Walnut Hill/ 369-6466/ Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner: Tue-Sun 6-10:30/ Sun brunch 11-2/ Reservations/MC,AE/$$$)

Enclave. A tancily-appointed mood restaurant (in the subdued smoked-mirror-and-chandeliers tradition) – a place tor those who relish the romance of candlelight and soft music. Unfortunately, the food doesn’t measure up to the surroundings – from the copious menu you’ll get an adequate meal, but don’t expect the sublime. Lunch, more modest in range and price, is a better bet. Well-disciplined service and a tine wine list. (8325 Walnut Hill/ 363-7487/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30: Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11, bar till 12/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE, DC/ $$$)

Ewald’s. An inspired collection of veal dishes (Veal “Palm Beach” with Westphalian ham, hearts of palm, and bearnaise sauce) have given Ewald his loyal following. But he also serves a cognac-flamed pepper steak that ranks with the best in town. A smattering of other continental dishes (with a Swiss flavor) and a limited seafood selection. A small, plain – in fact bland – dining room. (5415 W Lovers Ln/357-1622/ Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11/Reservations/MC,BA/$$$)

★ The Grape. Cozy, congenial, ana crowded, The Grape delights its loyal tans with a wonderful array o1 cheeses from which you create your own elegant cheese board combinations. A daily menu of light entrees, plus lovely omelettes and great soups – the fresh mushroom has a reputation of its own. A diverse and interesting wine selection. An old and unassuming little place. (2808 Greenville Ave/823-0133/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Tue-Sun, 6-10:30, open later on Fri & Sat lor wine and cheese only/No reservations/No credit cards/$$)

Marcel’s. Marcel is a charming host in the classic French tradition; it’s that French feeling that has made this a long-popular restaurant. That and a complete table d’hote dinner for only $6.50 – not the finest French cuisine in the city but certainly the best priced. Beef Wellington is the house specialty, but the real star may be the coq au vin. Relaxed, quiet dining. (5721 W Lovers Ln/358-2103/Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight. Closed Mon/Reservations/MC,BA,AE,DC/$$)

★★Mr. Peppe. Some say it’s the best French restaurant in the city. Others cite inconsistencies and argue. Regardless, there is a friendly intimacy and refreshing informality at work here – a warm, dark, and cozy setting. Wonderful rack of lamb, superb pepper steak. And the pastries – owner/ chef Albert’s specialties – are almost too good to be true. (5617 W Lovers Ln/ 352-5976/ Mon-Sat 6-10/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/ $$$)

Old Swiss House/ Fort Worth. Many claim that this is Fort Worth’s finest. Certainly a Fort Worth favorite – the Kaufmann family has been serving fine continental cuisine here for many years. Delightful veal dishes (the St. Moritz is rich and satisfying) and a daily fresh seafood special. Great little complimentary cheese rolls and a lovely Boston lettuce dinner salad. Not a particularly distinctive place, more comfortable than classy. And the service can seem hurried. (5412 Camp Bowie/(817)738-8091/ Mon-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till 10:30. closed Sun/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/ $$$)

Old Warsaw. Not always up to its glowing reputation and illustrious heritage, but the stately luxury and Old World appeal still prevail. The meal may have its ups and downs, but the entrees usually dazzle. A fine duck Bigarade and beautifully prepared seafood dishes. Service is sometimes perfect, sometimes far from it. Magnificent wine cellar. (2610 Maple/528-0032/Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight/Res-ervations/MC,BA.AE/$$SS)

Oz. The ongoing financial tribulations at Oz seem to be nearing some kind of impasse. What was once the finest and most creative kitchen in the city has been spinning with changes, and the results have been a day-to-day affair. Consequently, it is difficult to advise as to the success of a meal here until things are resolved one way or the other. (5429 LBJ Freeway/233-5755/Dinner: Mon-Thur 7-10. Fri & Sat till 11; Disco: Mon-Fri 5 p.m.,-2 a.m., Sat 7 p.m.-2 a.m.; closed Sun /Reservations re-quired/MC,BA,AE/$$S$)

D REVISITS

Papillon. Butterflies aren’t free, apparently. At least not this one, which, in tact, is quite expensive. And that’s the root of the problem with Papillon: when you pay these prices you expect (and deserve) something extraordinary – and you just don’t often get it here. The dinner menu is copious, probably too copious – it is a terribly difficult task for any kitchen to produce so many dishes consistently well. And it shows, because Papillon comes close, but not close enough. On recent visits, for example, the tournedos Rossini was a splendid cut of beef, properly medium rare, but literally smothered in a heavy burgundy sauce. The saltimbocca – which translates as something like “leap into the mouth” – didn’t, because it was weighed down by a heavy tomato-cheese sauce. Too much salt marred the delicate creme avocado soup; an overdose of mayonnaise ruined what was previously a fine mushroom salad. Excellent oysters on the half shell and fine escargots were redeeming features that suggest the potential of this place. But unless or until they reach it consistently (simplify, simplify), you’ll likely walk out the door wondering how (or why) you spent so much. (7940 N Cen Expwy at Caruth Haven/691 -7455/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat till midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

★★Patry’s. Another contender in the ’ best-French-restaurant-in-town” debate. A family-run operation with an obvious personal touch is one reason. A menu of exquisite hors doeuvres is another (have the stuffed leeks in cream sauce). The escalope of veal is the star of the entrees. Neither luxurious nor intimate, but that doesn’t deter a very loyal clientele. (2504 McKinney/748-3754/Tue-Fri 6-11, Sat till 11:30/Reservations/MC,BA,AE,DC/$$$)

Plaza Cafe. One of Dallas’ few nice spots for dining alfresco: the terrace was built and grown from scratch, so it’s not yet a garden paradise, but still offers the pleasure of eating outdoors. The menu is varied and light continental in nature, all from the dependable Bagatelle kitchen. Impressive cold buffet. Indoor tables available. (One Energy Square, Greenville Ave at University/692-8224/Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-midnight, Fri & Sat till 1 a.m./Reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$

★★★Pyramid Room. The classiest dining room in Dallas – an aura of affluence and impeccable taste. A paragon of service – absolutely professional but without pomposity, including a theatrical sommelier. A dizzying dinner menu of French specialties of the highest order (lunch is less glamorous). The Grand Marnier dessert souffle is a triumph. In sum, Dallas’ finest restaurant. But even at that, capable of disappointment because it is so expensive. Too expensive. But always a pleasure if you can pay the price. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard/ 748-5454/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily 6-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$$)



Italian



lanni’s. An undistinguished shopping center facade, an entry lobby tacked with Dallas sports photos and celebrity glossies, and a dining room that’s a vineyard of plastic grapes doesn’t bode well. But lanni’s can surprise you. It’s relaxed and unpretentious – a throwback to simpler dining. The waitresses are pros and the kitchen is sound if not stunning. And the homemade Italian sausage is as good as any in town. (2230 Greenville/ 826-6161/ Daily 5:30-11 p.m./ Reservations/ MC,AE/$$)

D REVISITS

Campisi’s. Technically,Campisi’s Egyptian Restaurant – which makes no sense because this is a purely Italian restaurant. The mysterious name certainly does nothing to diminish the most visible feature of this restaurant: the nightly waiting line extending out the door. Even on a Monday night the faithful will be patiently standing there, knowing well that this is the price they pay to get into what is one of Dallas’ most appealing restaurants, one of the few in the city that feel time-tested and deeply rooted. The Campisi family claims that title of Dallas’ first pizza specialists and pizza is undoubtedly the cornerstone of this institution – rectangular in shape and unique in flavor. It this is not the best pizza in town (and many would stake their lives on it), it is certainly the most distinctive. If you don’t want to stand in line, Campisi’s provides a terrific foil-wrapped take-out service and you can dive into a large combination-cut-the-anchovies at home. The rest of the menu runs the standard Italian gamut, but not with quite the same success as the pizza. The fettucine and the veal Marsala, as examples, are adequate but unspectacular. The manicotti is better and the platefull of sausage and peppers better still. For good munching, there are crab claws, toasted ravioli, and an unusual rendition of garlic bread. Service rarely falters – things move fast and smooth here under the watchful eyes of father Carlo Campisi’s portrait on the back wall. What he sees is not much different from the way it was when he opened the place in 1950. Except maybe better. (5610 E Mockingbird/827-0355/Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat till 1 a.m., Sun noon-mid-night/No credit cards. Checks accepted/Reservations for 6 or more/$)

★★ll Sorrento. The best Italian food in Dallas in a marvelously hokey setting – like a Hollywood designer’s dream of Venice, complete with strolling musicians and bread vendors. The fettucine Alfredo and the tagliatelle – both prepared at your table – are standouts among the pasta dishes; the veal dishes are crowned by the Marsala and picca-ta. Be warned that even with a reservation you may be forced to bide time waiting in the bar. (8616 Turtle Creek/352-8759/Daily 5:30-11, Sat till midnight/Reservations except on Fri & Sat/All credit cards/$$$)

Italian Pavilion. This overdone (fancy-tacky) dining room atop the LeBaron Hotel seems an unlikely setting tor fine Italian dining. But fine it can be. Try any of the veal dishes – the saltimbocca in a superb marsala sauce is particularly good. Excellent appetizers and desserts and an interesting Italian wine list combine to make this a place worth a visit. (LeBaron Hotel, 1055 Regal Row at Carpenter Fwy/ 634-8550/ Mon-Sat 6-11 p.m./ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

Mario’s. On a good night, this plush restaurant is unsurpassed for Italian cuisine in Dallas. The veal with mushrooms and artichoke hearts is famous, and the Frittura Delizie Romano and fried zucchini, which accompany all entrees, are terrific. Great spumoni, and a fine selection of Italian wines. (135 Turtle Creek Village/521-1135/Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

Pletro’s. Home-style Sicilian cooking with flocks of regular customers. The standouts are the pasta dishes – manicotti, cannelloni, fettucine alla Ro-mana, lasagna with meat sauce, and spaghetti ma-rinara – and old standbys like pizza (order the special Sicilian style in advance) and garlic bread (baked on the premises). (5722 Richmond oft Greenville/824-9403/Tue-Thur 5:30-10 p.m., Fri & Sat till 11 p.m./No reservations/No credit cards/$$)



Oriental

China Inn. A dependable restaurant with a Cantonese emphasis standouts are the sweet-and-sour disnes, the ginger beef, and war sue har (batter-tried shrimp with a “country-style” sauce). Huge eggrolls and excellent homemade almond cookies. Low-keyed and comfortable. (6521 E Northwest Hwy/ 369-7733/ Mon-Fri 11 a m.-2 p.m., 5-10:30 p.m.; Sat till midnight; Sun 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m./ Reservations/ MC,8A,AE/ $$)

Chinese Pavilion. The menu here is identical to that of Hunan, the restaurant that spawned this one. Be adventurous and put yourself in the waiter’s hands. For $8 per person you’ll be treated to a multi-course dinner featuring the chef’s Hunan and Sze-chuan-style specialties. And the crabmeat and corn soup is a must. (European Crossrods, 2829 W Northwest Hwy/357-3577/Sun-Thur 11:30 a.m-11 p.m., Fri & Sat till midnight/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/ $$)

★★Hunan. Currently Dallas’ best Chinese restaurant. The Hunan cuisine that is its specialty is milder than you’ll find in New York, but still potent. Have the “pu pu tray” of appetizers, and then you’re on your own – it’s all good (though we recommend Hunan Lamb. Champagne Chicken, and Shrimp with Garlic Sauce). Small and comfortable. (5214 Greenville Ave at Lovers Ln/369-4578/Mon-Thur 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri, Sat & Sun 11-midnigh/Reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$)

Peking Palace. Once Dallas’ Oriental best, but it hasn’t quite kept up with the booming competition. Too many items taste warmed-over, but the Sze-chuan-style selections are, for the most part, excellent (try the shredded pork with garlic sauce). And the Won Ton soup is the best in town. And still the most pleasant dining room of any Dallas Oriental restaurant. (4119 Lomo Alto/522-1830/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-11, Fri & Sat till midnight, Sun noon-10 p.m./Reservations on weekends/MC,BA,AE/$$)

Ports o’ Call. The greatest view (from the top of Southland Center) of any Dallas restaurant, and that almost makes up for the fact that the food – ranging from Chinese to Polynesian – is only okay. The decor is extravagant, and so are the bar concoctions (some so potent they limit you to two). A good place to take out-of-towners. (Southland Center. 2117 Live Oak/742-2334/Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily 5:30- 10:30 /Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)

Royal China. A friendly place with a loyal clientele, a items; Tea Smoked Duck, Golden Crown of Pork, and Dry Stir Beef. All the food is attractively presented – the chef even sculpts elegant little butterflies from carrots. Unfortunately, the appetizers are on the greasy side. (201 Preston Royal Shopping Center/361-1771 or 368-9692/Tues-Sun 11:30-2:30 and 5:30-10 p.m., closed Mon/MC,BA, AE/$$)

Royal Tokyo. Long the home of superb Japanese cuisine, but lately in a disappointing slump. Once-favorite dishes like shabu-shabu and the teriyaki dinner have suffered from careless preparation. Even the delicate sunomono salad is not what it used to be. On the up-side, recent remodeling makes for a more pleasant dining room, though the new piano bar can be noisy. Let’s hope the problems are only temporary and the graciousness of old will be restored. (7525 Greenville Ave/368-3304/Lunch: Daily 11:30-2, except Sat: Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat till 11:30, Sun 5-10/Resenations/MC,BA,AE/$$)

South China. An unassuming restaurant that specializes in Mandarin cuisine. The dishes with black bean sauce are the standouts, as well as the spicy chicken with pecans, barbecued pork with vegetables, and the shredded beef with hot sauce. Excellent soups and appetizers. (5424 E Mocking-bird/826-5420/Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30, Sat & Sun noon-2:30: Dinner: Daily 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11 /Reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$)

Trader Vic’s. One of the best of a variable chain of Oriental-Polynesian restaurants, this one has excellent hors d’oeuvres (try the “Cosmo Tidbit” platter), a fine limestone lettuce salad, and well-prepared entrees. We suggest the curries, the almond duck, lobster Cantonese, or the Indonesian lamb roast. Exotic and powerful rum concoctions. (Hilton Inn, 5600 N Cen Expwy/827-3620/Daily 5-11:30 p.m., weekends till midnight/Reservations/ All credit cards/$$$)

Yet Lau. A neighborhood Chinese restaurant with down-home Texas waitresses and a devoted clientele. Soups and appetizers are so-so, but the entrees – try the Chicken Long Hut – are carefully prepared. The decor is pretty awful, but the food makes up for it. (6635 E Lovers Ln at Northwest Hwy/691-3112/Sun-Thur 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri & Sat 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m./Reservations/MC, BA/$$)



Mexican



Chiquita. The reputation for greatness here was not built on consistency – Chiquita is sometimes love-ly, sometimes lousy. The Tex-Mex has never been sublime, but on a good day the chiles rellenos are generously stuffed and the steak dishes are usually a good bet – try the filete a la Chiquita and ask for the special garlic sauce. The trimmings are always nice – a good complimentary bean soup, and great chicken-sour cream nachos. (3325 Oak Lawn/ 521-0721/ Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m./ No reservations/ MC,BA,AE/ $$)

★Herrera Cafe. Home-cooked Tex-Mex from two odd locations. The ludicrous-looking newer version on Lemmon Avenue serves the same great food as the original adobe hole-in-the-wall on Maple. But at the Lemmon location, quality is not a certainty. When they’re right, the chicken enchiladas in “Spanish sauce” are a treat. For the good old fat flour tortillas hot off the grill, visit the nine-table dilapidated dive on Maple. Predictably fine favorites: wonderful burritos, great guacamole. And the men-udo is a community tradition. (3902 Maple/526-9427/Weekdays 9 a.m.-8 p.m., weekends till 10; closed Tue/3708 Lemmon/528-2250/Daily 11 a. m.-9 p.m., Fri & Sat till 10 p.m., closed Mon/No reservations/No credit cards/$)

Mariano’s. A stylish dining room with a big, festive cantina and a lively mariachi band keeps this place hopping. The menu runs the gamut, but the food is really only average and a bit expensive tor Mexican food. If you’re tour or more in number, go for “The Revolution” – a little of everything for $10 apiece. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/691 -3888/Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-midnight, bar till 1 a.m.; Fri & Sal 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m., bar till 2 a.m.; Sun 4:30-10:30 p.m., bar till midnight/ No reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$)

★★Raphael’s. All in all, Dallas’ best Mexican restaurant – and oh the crowds to prove it. From putted tacos to shrimp enchiladas you can’t go wrong, but take note that the chicken-sour cream enchiladas are the best in town. A lovely old place with warm, wooden, ranchero style. (3701 McKinney/521-9640/ Mon-Fri 11:30a.m.-10:30p.m., Sat noon-10:30, closed Sun/ Reservations Mon-Thur only/ MC,BA,AE/$$)

El Taxco. Maybe the best dining value in Dallas. Dependable Tex-Mex right down to the refried beans just the way they ought to be – and at very low prices. A subtle style with less hot seasonings make it an especially good spot for newcomers to Mexican food. A casual, friendly cafe. (2126 N St. Paul/742-0747/Wed-Mon 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m., closed Tue/No reservations/MC/$)



Greek

Goidfinger. In the limited realm of Greek cuisine in Dallas, Goldfinger serves some of the best. But still, this is as much a nightclub (live music with belly dancing) as it is a restaurant and the food is only good, not great. The combination dinner of souv-laki and large charcoaled shrimp is nice and rack of lamb is the house specialty. And the dolmas are great. (2905 Cridelle/350-6983/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun- Thur 6-11, Fri & Sal till midnight/Reservations on weekends/MC,BA,AE/$$)

Greek Key. A festive spot with a longstanding clientele who revel with the staff in Greek folk dances. Live Greek music and, of course, belly dancers. The menu has all the standard Greek specialties – moussaka, etc. – plus steaks and lobster. For a good Greek sampling, try the combination plate or the daily lunch buffet. (2930 W Northwest Hwy/358-5177/Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2 p.m., closed Sun/All credit cards/Reservations/$$)



Indian



India House. An authentic representation of Indian cuisine. The uninitiated may find it all a bit exotic – but a culture shock made pleasant by the helpful guidance of the staff (or try the Shahi House Dinner for a broad sampling). Aficionados of the Indian tradition may find the preparation lacking perfection, but with so much to choose from, danger of disappointment is slight. Something is sure to please – or at least to surprise. (5422 E Mockingbird/’823-1000/Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11/ Reservations/ All credit cards/$$)



Southern Specialties



Angelo’s/Fort Worth. A name that’s known across the state as one of Texas’ premiere barbecue pits. And it is. Great beef, rich spicy sauce, big sandwiches, cold draught, and a setting that fits – West Texas rustic and sawdust floors. And overlooking the proceedings is a monstrous stuffed bear-a landmark himself. (2533 White Settlement Rd/ (817)332-0357/ Mon-Sat 11-10/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)

The Black-Eyed Pea. Three locations, but the original, on Cedar Springs, is the hot spot, with old-time Texana style. Chicken fried steak is the big item. And, of course, black eyed peas. Plus big burgers, unusual sandwiches. Black-Eyed Pea Too is smaller and dry. Ill on Greenville features Butterfly pork chops. (3857 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn/ 526-9478/ Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat till midnight, Sun noon-11 /Too, 6912 Snider Plaza/ 369-5011/Daily 11 a.m. -9p.m. except Sun noon-9/lll, 4814 Green-ville Ave near University/ 361 -5979 /Hours same as Cedar Springs/No reservations/MC,AE/$)

Celebration. Some of the homestyle pride seems occasionally to be missing from the homestyle cooking since the expansion of this friendly place. But still a good spot tor a wholesome meal at a reasonable price. Pot roast is the best of the five entrees. Plus big bowls of good family-style-help-yourself vegetables. Beer and wine are available now, but try the apple juice at least once – it’s great. (4503 W Lovers Ln/ 351-5681/ Mon-Sat 5:30-11, Sun till 10:30/ No reservations/ MC,BA/ $)

Mr. Chicken. Many rate it the best fried chicken in town. Small town cafe style (including TV). Chicken and dumplings and other plate lunches; grilled steaks. And luscious onion rings. Beer only. (5114 Greenville Ave near Lovers Ln/363-6969/Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m./No reservations/No credit cards/$)

Red Moon Cafe. A charming and romantic little European-cafe setting helps hide the consistently inconsistent kitchen. But when they’re on, the featured Creole cooking (more Spanish than French in influence) can be a treat. Open tor breakfasts trimmed with grits and biscuits. (4537 Cole/526-5391/Mon-Sat 7-2:30, 6-10/No reservations/No credit cards/$$)

Shanghai Jimmy’s Chill Rice. A Dallas institution that’s come and gone and come again. Now on Lemmon, Jimmy still dishes out the same great stuff: a tub of rice topped with chili and your choice of onions, celery, Cheddar, and sweet relish. Mix it all up and you’ve got a meal. Lemonade only. (4108 Lemmon Ave near Douglas/No phone /Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m., except Sun 5-10 p.m./No reservations/No credit cards/$)

★ Sonny Bryan’s. Best barbecue in town? You’ll never get a consensus, but this one gets a lot of votes. Juicy, juicy stuff in a funky, funky little smokehouse. No tables – you eat on individual school desk tops. Beer, no bar. (2202 lnwood/357-7120/Mon-Sat 6 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Sun 11-2/No reservations/No credit cards/$)

Southern Kitchen. An all-you-can-eat feast in the tradition of the Old South: fried chicken, smoked chicken, fried shrimp, fried trout, and deviled crab plus appetizers and many other trimmings. Nothing extraordinary (except the luscious cinnamon rolls) but the magnitude alone is impressive. (West, 2356 W Northwest Hwy/352-5220/East, 6615 E Northwest Hwy/368-1658/Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30 p.m., Sun 5-10 p.m./Reservations for 5 or more/All credit cards/$$)



Seafood



Oporto Oyster Bar. A somewhat unpredictable place (the service is sometimes pertect, sometimes mis-erable), but if you go with the simpler broiled dishes, especially the Boston scrod and the baby flounder, you’ll surely be pleased. Often crowded to the point of a wait in line. One reason is that the oysters on the halt shell are, predictably, wonderful. (2929 N Henderson/826-2553/Daily 5-11 p. m,, Fri & Sat till midnight/No reservations/BA, AE/$S)

S & D Oyster Company. A handsomely restored 19th century livery/ grocery building with brick walls and bentwood chairs lending themselves to a mild New Orleans atmosphere. Oysters are the specialty – delicious whether on the half-shell or fried. Also boiled or fried shrimp, a pleasant gumbo, and broiled flounder or snapper. Beer and wine only. A welcome addition to the limited sea fare in town. (2701 McKinney near Routh/ 823-6350/ Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun/ No reservations/ MC/ $$)

Vehon’s. An unpretentious oyster bar that grew into a schlocky restaurant, Vehon’s still serves the best oysters in town, giant red Spanish shrimp, baked (not broiled) rainbow trout, catfish, and – a rarity in Dallas – a properly black, hot gumbo. Casual to the point of crudeness, but there are lots who love It. (4844 Greenville Ave/368-8911 /Mon-Sat 11 a. m.-11 p.m., Sun 5-11 p.m./Reservations/All credit cards/$$)



Natural Foods



Arjun’s. Low-keyed and attractive surroundings for imaginative food that’s good for you. The hot entree changes daily, and it’s usually excellent, but they always have delicious, huge, unwieldy avocado sandwiches, generous fresh fruit and vegetable salads, good soups, and custom-made smoothies. (4220 Oak Lawn/526-4050/ Mon-Fri 11-3, 5-9; Sat 11-9/No reservations/No credit cards/$)



Delicatessens



Black Forest. Austrian-style food – sausages, salamis, coffee cakes, breads, a lovely cold cut platter, and excellent sandwiches. Try the veal sausages with hash browns and black bread, and any of the pastries. Excellent selection of German beers and wines. (5819 Blackwell off E Northwest Hwy/368-4490/Mon-Fri 8 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat till 5 p. m./No reservations/BA/$)

★Kuby’s. Busy, bustling, with excellent homemade sausages (served with hot potato salad or sauerkraut), thick sandwiches (try the pastrami), great pastries, and a soup of the day which is a lunch-time bargain (60￠). A congenial spot with a German accent. (6601 Snider Plaza/ 363-2231/ Mon-Sat 8:30-2:30, sandwiches till 5:30/ No reservations/ MC – $15 minimum/ $)

Wall. A worthwhile stop for displaced New Yorkers and insatiable corned beef fans, though its reputation as the best for kosher-style food in Dallas is earned mainly by default. The kosher standards – gefilte fish, herring in sour cream, cheese blintzees – are very tasty, but the quality of food and service is uneven. Except for the disappointing chopped liver, sandwiches are the best bet. And try the outstanding cabbage soup. (10749 Preston Rd/ 691-4444/ Daily 7:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m./ MC,BA/$$)



Steaks, Burgers, Etc.



Baby Doe’s Matchless Mine. Right out of Six Flags, this extravagant re-creation of an old silver mine so overdone it somehow works. Perched atop Goat Hill with a panoramic, if not beauteous, view to the west. The food is a secondary feature – mainly steaks, prime rib. Huge “underground” disco. No reservations, long waits. (3305 Harry Hines near Oak Lawn Ave/741-9771 /Daily 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-11 p.m., except Sun 5-11 p.m. only; disco till 2 a.m./No reservations/MC,BA/$$$)

Cattleman’s Fort Worth. A famous Texas name that still delivers, and still from its original location right in the heart of the stockyards. The steaks are the thing here and they’re terrific – you can watch them being cooked on the grills at the end of each dining room. Lots of other options, ranging from calf fries (“Mountain Oysters”) to lobster and spaghetti. (2458 N. Main/ (817)624-3945/ Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-10:45 p.m., Sat 4-10:45 p.m., closed Sun/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE.CB/$$)

★ Chili’s. A handsome burger joint. Good chili, unusual soft tacos of flour tortillas, and, best of all, long, thin, greasy french fries with the skin still on them. Always hopping – you’ll likely wait in line. (7567 Greenville Ave at Meadow Rd/361-4371/Daily 11 a.m.-midnight, Fri & Sat till 2 a.m./ No reservations/MC,BA,AE/$)

Daddy’s Money. A something for everybody menu: steak, chicken, seafood, etc. But the standout is the charcoaled rack of lamb. The Old Town location is a slick and busy place with a lively bar. The North Dallas outlet is more relaxed, more elegant. Nice Sunday brunch. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/363-8686/Daily 11-11. Fri & Sat till 12:30 a. m., Sun 10 a.m.-11 p.m., bar till 1 a.m. nightly/ North Dallas, 4855 LBJ Frwy at lnwood/387-3800/Daily 11 a.m-1 a.m., Fri & Sat till 2 a.m., Sun 10 a.m.-11 p.m./Reservations/MC,BA,AE,DC/$$)

★ The Den. A distinctive spot in the venerable old Stoneleigh Hotel with a convivial clientele of various professional types – like a seasoned Upper East Side bar. Terrific cheeseburgers, a great prime rib sandwich, chef’s specials. Dallas’ best bartending. And free popcorn. (2927 Maple/742-7111 /Restaurant: Mon-Fri 6 a.m.-9 p.m., Sat & Sun 6 a.m.-1 a.m.; Bar: Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-midnight, closed Sat & Sun/MC,DC,AE.,CB/$$)

The Filling Station. The last word on motif dining. An old gas station transformed into a restaurant. Automobile paraphernalia abounds, gas pumps dispense beer at the bar, and the Mobil flying horse hovers over it all. “Ethyl,” “Regular,” and “Low Lead” (no bun) hamburgers. No kidding. (6862 Greenville Ave near Park Lane/691 -4488/Tue-Sat 11 a.m.-1 a.m., Sun & Mon till midnight/No reser-vations/MC, BA,AE/$)

Houlihan’s. If you want it, they’ve probably got it. From escargots to cheeseburgers, from crab New-burg to Belgian waffles, from omelettes to roast duck, from crepes to steak. And. considering the range, the overall quality is surprisingly good. Antique clutter motif. Often long lines. (4 NorthPark East/361-9426/Daily 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m./No reser-vations/MC,BA,AE/$$)

Ichabod’s. Slick in the Greenville Avenue tradition, but Ichabod’s is nevertheless a very pleasant and dependable place. The key to their success is a limited menu of steaks and seatood with nothing so elaborate that the kitchen staff can’t handle it. There are a tew nicely imaginative touches, like a “relish tray” of raw fresh vegetables instead of a tired salad. A nice dining area with its own entrance to separate it from the teeming swingles bar. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/691 -2646/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily 6-11/No reser-vations/MC,BA,AE,CB/$$)

★Kirby’s. Dallas’ original steakhouse and time has only enhanced its appeal. No gimmicks, waitresses of the old school, and good food values. The “special cut” sirloin strip is big and beautiful and the creamy garlic house dressing is alone enough tor some fans. (3715 Greenville/823-7296/Tue-Sun 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$)

Railhead. Consistently the best of the steak-and-sal-ad-bar scene. The salad bar has creative possibilities and the prime rib may be the best around. Heavy on the railroad theme and super-smile service. (6919 Twin Hills Ave at Park Ln/369-8700/Lunch: Daily 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5-11:30, Sun 5-10:30; bar till 2 a.m. nightly/Fleservations (on weekends before 7 p.m. and after 10:30 p.m. only)/MC,BA,AE/$$$)

D REVISITS

T.G.I. Friday’s. The fickle singles scene seems to have swung back to Friday’s – the bar is once again tilled with wolf packs of men who think they look like Lee Majors, plus the usual solitaries who look as forlorn as absinthe drinkers. But the real reason for Friday’s continued success, when all around it the “Restaurant For Lease” signs proclaim the demise of similar entrepreneurial dreams, is its kitchen, which doesn’t try anything extraordinary but usually manages to satisfy. Friday’s may, in fact, be the ultimate junk food paradise, offering everything from nachos to rhubarb pie on its recently-expanded menu. The burgers are still the standouts – though you have to stick to your guns to get them truly medium rare – but the Tex-Mex additions are interesting. They make excellent gua-camole, and the “nacholupas” are much better than you might expect. Salads are also superb, but avoid the omelettes, which seem to be made of flannel. The service is athletic but usually helpful Despite the crowds and noise, Friday’s manages somehow to be comfortable and even intimate. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville /363S353 Daily 11:30 a.m.- 2 a.m. / No reservations MC,BA,AE/$$)

★Stoneleigh P. An Oak Lawn favorite and eclectic hangout A restoration of what was long a pharmacy – clever but not cutesy. Provolone cheeseburgers on pumpernickel are the favorite among many goodies. Great magazine rack (browsing encouraged) and fabulous juke box (from Bach to Stones). (2926 Maple/741-0824/Mon-Thur 11:15-midnight, Fri & Sat till 1:30 a.m., Sun 12-12; bar daily till 1 a.m., Fri $ Sat till 2/No reservations/No credit cards/$)

★ Strictly Ta-Bu. A terrific old neighborhood bar with a mixed bag clientele. The original 1948 decor has been virtually untouched and charms with its classy-tacky effect. Great pizza, great burgers; plus steaks, sandwiches. Live jazz most nights and an occasional free flick. (4111 Lomo Alto/526-9325/Mon-Fri 5 p.m.-2 a.m., Sat 6 p.m.-2 a.m., Sun 6 p.m.-1 a.m./ No reservations/ MC,BA/$$)



Mainly For Lunch



The Bronx. A surprisingly quiet little spot amidst the Cedar Springs sideshow. The fare is simple but stylish: for example, a plate of bagels and lox with red onions and cream cheese or a pretty omelette with a bagel and a side of terrific Italian sausage. Atmosphere (rustic and woody) but without coming on too strong. Beer (lots of imports) and wine only. (3835 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn/ 521-5821/ Daily 11:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m., bar till 2/ No reservations/ MC/ $$)

Ciro’s. Great Sicilian-style pizza and an attractive array of elaborate sandwiches in an airy, old-time corner store at McKinney and Hall. The “wine bar” serves fine wines by the glass, the beers include some nice imports, and there’s a great hard apple cider with a real kick. (3237 McKinney at Hall/745-9464/Mon-Wed 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Thur & Fri till midnight, Sat till 1 a.m., closed Sun/No reserva-tions/MC/$$)

La Créperie. The courtyard patio under Cinzano umbrellas provides the nicest al fresco dining in Dallas. (There are inside tables for winter or rain.) The crepes are hefty one-per-serving size, in 47 varieties, including several ratatouille and several creamed spinach versions (#13 – spinach, Italian sausage, and mushrooms). For a different dessert, try their “tortillions.” (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/651-0506/Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-5 p.m., Fri & Sat till 11 p.m./Reservations recommended/MC, BA,DC,AE/$$)

Galltery Buffet. An expertly catered buffet table at the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, featuring hearty soups, salads, homemade breads, and desserts for only $2.50. Wine extra. (DMFA, Fair Park/421-4187/Tue-Fri 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m./No reservations/No credit cards/$)

The Lunch Basket Tearoom. Bright and cozy. Homemade lunches with unusual salads and soups, and homemade tea breads that you can also buy by the loaf. Foreign blend coffees and teas. (6617 Snider Plaza, Studio 216/ 369-3241/ Mon-Sat 10 a.m.-5 p.m./ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)

Magic Pan. A very popular place with a delicious selection of cr?pes, including outstanding dessert crepes. Very crowded during the week, but nice for Sunday brunch or late night after-theatre snacks. (NorthPark – New Mall/692-7574/Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-midnight, Fri till 1 a.m., Sat 10 a.m-1 a.m., Sun 10 a.m. -midnight/No reservations/MC,BA, AE/$$)

Upper Crust. Homestyle specialties like chicken & dumplings and red beans & rice, plus wonderful buttermilk pie and a great buttermilk salad dressing. Also sandwiches and homemade soups. A casual “indoor courtyard” setting. (Olla Podrida, 12215 Coit Rd/661-5738/Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3; Dinner: Thur only. 5:30-8:30/No reservations/No credit cards/$)

Zodiac Room. A stunning effect with salads as handsome as they are tasty, and an irresistible array ofdesserts – including their famous strawberryshortcake. Always crowded. Wine and beer. (Nei-man-Marcus, downtown/ 741-6911/ Mon-Sat10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; teatime daily 3-5 p.m. except Thur 2:30-3:30; Thur dinner 5-7 p.m./Reserva-tions/Neiman-Marcus charge card only, checks accepted/ $$)