Conspicuous Consumer/Fashion STEPPIN’ OUT

It was inevitable. The unisex, jeans-for-every-occasion look was certain to fizzle eventually and be replaced by a look that was its opposite. That time has come. After all, fashion designers and merchandisers get bored just like the rest of us. This fall, save the jeans for cleaning out the garage and get ready for a softer, decidedly feminine approach to dressing.

If clothing emphasis is changing from blue jeans to soft pleats and ruffles, what will happen to shoes? “The new designs in clothing, especially pants, demand that shoes have more of a fashion look,” says Loretta Blum, owner of a boutique by the same name. So shoes will be changing too. Clunky platforms, never the favorite of good designers or of podiatrists, won’t be favorites this year at all. The second-cousin of the high-heeled spike is what’s big for 1977. Podiatrists may still get a lot of business out of the new 5-inch stiletto heel, but it’s a definite improvement in design over the platform shoe. In fact, looking at Charles Jourdan’s designs might actually lead one to believe that feet can be sexy.

“As the skirts come down, the heel goes up. That’s been the history of fashion,” says Bill Martin of Marie Leavell. This maxim doesn’t always apply, but it’s a good rule of thumb. Few people think the mini will make a comeback. Knees just aren’t very pretty. But skirt lengths will vary and that means that heel heights will vary, too. So if the 5-inch stiletto isn’t for you, you will have an alternative that’s fashionable.

The heel of the boot will be in many heights and so will the leg length. Expect to see ankle length (for pants and the long, full skirt), mid-calf, knee, and even over-the-knee-length boots for higher hems this season. In short, expect to see a lot of boots. Expect to need slim, strong ankles this fall too, not only because of the new heel height, but because shoe designs will emphasize the ankle. Look for ankle straps or ties on many designs and pull out your old ankle bracelets. They’re in again.

There are some new trends in shoe color and texture this season as well. Snakeskin will be used frequently, as will suede. And the use of gold or silver metallic trim for daytime wear, so popular this summer, will get an encore this fall. Shoe buyers think the overall best fall shoe color will be burgundy. Not basic black, not brown. According to Loretta Blum, black and brown shoes are “not what fashion is aimed at. That’s not the 20 to 50-year-old market today.” Fall clothing colors seem to justify this prediction. That’s no small feat, since shoes are bought as much as a year ahead of the season for which they’ll be sold.