Entree
Cures for Epicures
Christmas is a disturbing season biologically. Suddenly, for a period of maybe two weeks, you find yourself sleeping differently, drinking differently, and eating differently. The first two are somewhat interrelated. The third, eating, is an independent and freakish phenomenon. For no apparent reason, except for ’tis the season, you eat things, large quantities of things, that you rarely consider eating during the rest of the year.
We all have our seasonal idiosyn-cracies. Mine form a particularly vile group. Fudge. Scalloped potatoes. Jones Farms Sausage – countless links of Jones Farms Sausage. Frozen Milky Way bars. Celery stuffed with cream cheese. Cold lamb sandwiches. And Cheese Nip crackers. These, combined with flagrant overeating in general, produce the expectable wretched results.
The point being that, come January 2 and the days following shortly thereafter, your body despises you and you feel obliged to make amends. A return to normalcy, basically. But you can’t be abrupt. Your system is in chaos already and a sudden cutback to cottage cheese could leave permanent scars. Besides, your taste buds are still throbbing with desire and your appetite is still raging because your stomach has been blown into a cavern. So wind down gradually. You’ve probably got your own methods, but here are a few other options to consider.
There is something restorative about eggs. But your first inclination will be to hit the corner coffee shop for three over easys with ham, hash browns, biscuits and gravy. Deadly. Direct yourself instead to Calluaud on Fair-mount, home of some of the city’s more delicate omelettes. Order the mushroom version, and, in finishing, calm your sweet tooth on one of their little apple tarts. Dine slowly with civilized French restraint.
For some, a return to normalcy means a return to Mexican food. Obviously you can’t load up on an Aca-pulco Grande Combinacion. Head for Raphael’s on McKinney, take a deep breath, and calmly ask for an order of chicken-sour cream enchiladas. The sauce is light, the portion is small, and the effect is delicious. If you’ve got to have more, order a small guacamole salad on the side. Lay off the nachos.
Similarly, there are those aberrant types who associate pizza with security of the stomach. Pizza, of course, is dangerous. But there is a solution. Stop in at Strictly Ta-Bu on Lomo Alto. Absorb the smells of baking pizza, revel in the thought of a large green-pepper-jalapeno-and-onion, then order a bowl of their homemade corn and ham chowder. It’s so good you’ll wonder why you ever wanted pizza anyway. And it cures more ills than penicillin.
Maybe Chinese food is your salvation. Visit Hunan on Greenville Avenue or Chinese Pavilion on West Northwest Highway and don’t, for God’s sake, don’t order the Hunan Beef. Ask for the Champagne Chicken and let this sweet, silky concoction do its good work. Remove the Chinese mustard from sight.
Perhaps you just aren’t sure of your specific needs and would prefer a simple but effective home remedy. No guarantees, but you might wish to try one that has worked quite nicely for me in the past: Sleep until three in the afternoon, get up, wash your face, drink a six-pack of Schlitz Malt Liquor, and go back to bed.
-David Bauer
Newcomers
The Old House On Mockingbird. This is surely the furthest extension (to date) of that genre best described as the “pop restaurant.” The Old House has taken the trend another step, into the realm of “pop haute-continental.” The menu covers fancy ground usually reserved tor smaller, more sophisti-cated kitchens: from pepper steak to brioche to rack of lamb, plus nice smaller touches like complimentary “herb butter” and a stir-fry vegetable dish; steaks are a notably secondary feature. The results are, for the most part, surprisingly solid, though not breathtaking; it would all be more satisfying, however, if the prices were more realistic. Part of what you pay for is what surrounds you: the downstairs bar-disco has several distinct drinking parlors (one room is furnished entirely in wicker); the upstairs dining rooms run wild with fabrics and frills to create a kind of nouveau bordello effect. It’s difficult to recognize that this is indeed an old house with a real history (the previous inhabitants, a waiter tells us, were a cult of devil worshippers – the building was actually exorcised by a Catholic priest before the restaurant opened) and much of the building’s original charm was exorcised by the lavish renovation. But gaudy as it is, the place still has a kind of warmth of its own – more at night than at lunch, when the menu offers less and the atmosphere diminishes in appeal. If you do visit for lunch, be sure to try their strawberry soup. Yes, strawberry soup. (5720 E Mockingbird near Greenville/821-9200/Daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m./No reservations /MC,BA ,AE, DC/$$$)
The Yolk’s On You. It should be said, first of all, that this restaurant is much better than its name. As can be guessed without much effort, the featured attractions here are omelettes. However, rather than one of those vast selections of omelettes stuffed with every conceivable ingredientfrom oleo to oysters, this menu has been limited, wisely, to 11 varied and distinctive versions. These are very good omelettes (which are not as easy to find in this town as they should be), particularly the chicken livers in Madeira sauce and, even better, the sau-teed apple with swiss cheese. The menu doesn’t stop there, but perhaps it should have: there are crepes (which are very nice but notably stingy in portion), salads, sandwiches, and four entrees (such as veal Marsala, snapper Meunière – once again nice enough but definitely underportioned and overpriced). However, the best feature of the place is that it serves food until 3 a.m.; with its prime location at Park and Greenville and its comfortable and relatively unpretentious surroundings it should prove quite popular for light lunches and especially good for late night snacks. (8214 Park Lane at Greenville/361 -6511 /Daily 11 a.m.-3 a.m., except Sun till 2 a.m./Res-ervations/MC,BA,AE/$$)
Gitana. A rebirth of what before was Cafe Sevilla; the limited menu of Spanish cuisine of the predecessor has been expanded, now proclaiming “Mediterranean Cuisine.” While the predominant influence is still Spanish (from gazpacho to paella), the overall selection is interesting and inspired. The kitchen shows obvious talent, but only when given time to work. Most of our samplings, except for a few instances of overseasoning, have been excellent: a delightful Tabouli salad (a dish so often disappointing), ensalada de papas (as nice a version of potato salad as you’re likely to see), Baba Ga-nouj (a subtle eggplant pate), great batter fried squid rings, a richly oiled red snapper, a filet of beef in a thick pureed onion and Vermouth sauce, and a lovely apple flan. But when things get busy here, problems arise – service gets slow and kitchen care slips. Our visits were shortly after opening (several menu items were unavailable), so maybe things can be smoothed out to handle volume; but for now it seems the best bet is to visit on an early weeknight. The place itself is still charming, almost enchanting at night with white linen and candlelight against the rough brick walls. (3236 McKinney at Hall/521-4360/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11, till 11:30 on weekends, bar till 2/ Reservations /MC,AE/$$$)
Recipe
Lentil Soup
Theresa Alexander,
The Stoneleigh P.
The Stoneleigh P. is a curious place – a blend of down-home simple and carefully-constructed peculiar. The Stoneleigh P. menu is a curious menu of the same blend – they have cheeseburgers, sure, but the cheese is provolone and the bun is pumpernickel. The creator of the Stoneleigh P. menu is a curious blend herself – Theresa Alexander is half-Lebanese, raised in New Orleans, the child of two taste-conscious cultures. The Stoneleigh P.’s lentil soup – “ja-dra” by its traditional name – comes directly out of that heritage, straight from the New Orleans kitchen of Theresa’s Lebanese mother and full of the down-home goodness of a thick gumbo.
“Technically jadra is not a soup at all,” says Theresa, “but a main dish served by the Christian Lebanese as a Lenten dish. My mother used to serve it with hunks of French bread and chili peppers on the side. But served in the traditional way, it’s topped with burned onions and dollops of yoghurt.”
Meatless and fatless jadra can help whittle the bulges showing in the post-holiday mirror. It’s simple fare to warm the winter.
6 Tbsp. olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 c. lentils
2 tsp. salt
water
3/4 c. uncooked rice
Garnish (optional):
burned onions
plain yoghurt
French bread
chili peppers
Use a medium-to-heavy saucepan for even cooking. Coat the bottom of the pan with olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the chopped onion and cook until soft. Then add the lentils and cover with about an inch of water to which the salt has been added. When water simmers, adjust heat to maintain simmer; cook for 20 minutes. Check lentils occasionally to make sure they do not burn while cooking. Add the rice and additional water if needed. Simmer for 25 minutes, or until rice is desired consistency. The soup should be very thick when done.
Just before serving, add a little olive oil to soup. Garnish with traditional burned onions and yoghurt, dropped on top of each serving, or with hunks of French bread and chili peppers on the side. Serves six.
A la Carte
This is not an easy thing to do – a sacrifice, of sorts. Because whenever you give over your best secrets to the printed page you run the risk of ruining it for everyone, especially yourself. But this secret’s been leaking for a while now anyway, so we might as well just blow it wide open. Besides, the fried chicken at Henderson’s Chicken Shack # 1 is just too good to keep quiet about.
And anyway the risk of smothering abuse by the general public is small – Henderson’s has some built-in protection, namely its location near the bi -zarre intersection of Thomas and Hall Streets in the shadow of Central Expressway. Suffice it to say that this neighborhood is possibly safe, but distinctly more comfortable by daylight. But those who’ve tasted this chicken before aren’t about to let a little thing like fear keep them away from a “Regular Order” of four sweet juicy pieces on a bed of white bread buried under a mountain of fries and topped with pickles and jalapenos all for a mere $1.75. You’ll probably want to use the takeout service here, mainly because you have little choice – there are only three stools and the atmosphere is something akin to a grease sauna.
But oh that chicken. Frank Hoffman and Lorraine Clark do the cooking here. “How do you make this?” we asked. “Can’t tell you that,” says Frank. “No way,” says Lorraine. “If you put our recipe in the papers,” says Frank, “everybody’d have it and we’d be out of business.”
A little investigative reporting turned up the secret recipe and it’s a neat trick. But do you really think we’d put Frank and Lorraine out of business? Not a chance. (3200’/2 Thomas Avenue/824-9053/Daily 11 a.m.-4 a.m.)
Spirits
Brut Force
I am not, definitely not, going to start writing about champagne by telling you about the mythical monk Dom Perig-non and a bottle of wine exploding for unknown reasons, and the blind wine-maker tasting what was left of the wine and exclaiming with properly subdued monkish joy, “Look I am drinking stars!” No, you will have to read that hoary tale for yourself in any one of the champagne industry propaganda pamphlets.
Champagne has always had the image of the expensive, luxurious wine for ruling classes and snobs, an image aided and abetted by the champagne firms in all of their advertising. But a nagging question for the average consumer is “Why?” Why so expensive? Is it all a glamorous front? Or is the price tag justified?
Champagne is, in fact, the most expensive wine to produce, for several reasons:
●The location of the champagne district, the northernmost in France, produces fewer good vintages so the supply of grapes is less reliable, thus more exclusive.
●Most champagne firms maintain huge inventories – as much as four or five years’ supply of champagne on hand at all times, meaning as many as eight to ten million bottles in storage at some of the larger houses.
●The labor of continually expanding and maintaining the underground cave storage complex is very costly.
●The bottling is more expensive: heavier bottles designed to withstand terrific pressure, large laminated corks that must be of the highest quality, and even heavier foil, wire, and the more elaborate labels add to costs.
●The import taxes and customs duties on champagne are higher than on any other wines.
●Champagne generally requires more skilled labor at each step of its development than any other wine.
However, there is another factor, a non-technical one, that creates the real sting in champagne prices: Everyone involved in the importing and trading of champagne builds in a higher margin of profit than with any other wine, under the principle that champagne is a rich man’s drink and the rich man can afford any price put on it.
It is interesting to note, though, that even if champagnes are overpriced, they are correctly priced relative to one another – at least if a recent blind tasting is any indication. We brought together 40 knowledgeable wine tasters and five of the great champagnes. A California Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs was included in the tasting for comparison. (The “Cristal” of Louis Roederer, $19.25, should have and would have been tasted in this class, but was temporarily unavailable in Dallas.) The results, in order of highest rating:
1. Dom Perignon/Moet & Chandon($27.95)
2. Grand Siecle/Laurent Perrier ($19.95)
3. Blanc de Blancs/Taittinger ($19.95)
4. Rene Lalou/Mumm’s ($18.50)
5. Dom Ruinart/Ruinart ($16.95)
6. Blanc de Blancs/Schramsberg ($9.95)
All six received at least one first placevote, with Dom Perignon and GrandSiecle receiving the most first placevotes and no last place votes.California’s Schramsberg was definitelyrecognized by the tasters, not for lack ofquality – it was superb – but becauseit was different in style from the French.
But expensive or not, ’tis the New Year’s champagne season and most everyone will treat themselves to at least one round of bubbly. A few basic tips can make it all the better.
The label nomenclature is a basic guide to the different styles of champagne:
Brut – the driest
Extra Dry – the most popular semi-dry style
Sec – despite the name, quite sweet
Blanc de Blancs – produced only from white grapes
Everyone knows champagne should be served cold, but don’t freeze it to death – 50° is about right. Open champagne without the loud, showy explosion by holding the bottle at a 45° angle and twisting the bottle while at the same time gripping the cork firmly in the other hand. Store champagne like all the other wines, on its side to keep the cork wet. It doesn’t improve in the bottle and should be consumed within 10 years of the vintage.
A trademark of the New Year’s holiday is champagne punch. I’ve seen many versions, but so many are so similar – a champagne, ginger ale, and fruit concoction, sickly sweet and unrefresh-ing. During the Thanksgiving season, I experimented with a Cranberry Champagne Punch that came out quite nicely – a gorgeous color and a pleasantly sweet but tart taste.
5 fifths Pink Champagne (pink only foradditional color – white may also beused)
1 bottle (liter) Boggs Cranberry Liqueur 12 oz. cranberry juice
1 pint Maraschino liqueur
6 oz. simple syrup (make by dissolvingsugar in equal amount of boiling water and cooling; the 6 oz. recommendation may be adjusted according to taste)
Chill all ingredients before mixing. Mix in a bowl surrounded with crushed ice inside a larger punch bowl. Don’t dilute with ice and don’t add sliced fruit (orange slices stained with cranberry juice look positively unhealthy). If you want to go all out, decorate your punch table with berried pyracantha branches.
– Victor Wdowiak
Junk Food
The Tragic Taco
As we progress on our nomadic search for the quintessence of gastronomy, we advance to The Taco, which translates romantically as Wad. Roll. Plug. It consists, as we all know, of a flour or corn tortilla folded around a masterly filling of meat, cheese, pigeons, hare, hair, chicken or polyurethane foam. Simple, but seldom successful.
My first recollection of The Taco, in fact of Mexican food, is from the long-since-turned-into-a-parking-lot Acapul-co Cafe, located in the mysterious Little Mexico section of old Dallas. In those days, Mexican food was an abundantly-served delicacy consisting of mountains of frijoles, piles of rice, puddles of chili and cheese topped with a deep-fried Taco stuffed with lettuce and tomatoes. Most Mexican food today is a sad remnant of the past, seemingly applied to the plate with a caulking gun. And so with The Taco. Once a fried treat, now a commercial shell gooped full of mystery meat filling that must be derived from Taconite, the fine grained rock of New England. The new shell method of Taco prep results from the need for faster service, allowing up to twenty Taco slops per minute.
Having eaten at most major Mexican food establishments in the area and witnessing the Fast Sling Taco Sloppers in even the best, I was amazed to find what I consider the tastiest Taco in the old tradition at a non Mexican food eating place. And at one of the fastest food slingers of them all. This month’s La Gala Comida on the Taco Tour is the Maple Avenue Jack-in-the-Box at approximately 10:30 in the evening before they mass produce for the night club munchie crowd. Ask for extra sauce.
– George Toomer
Dining Directory
These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit then, that we recommend all of them highly. The star ratings only serve to point up restaurants of special significance.
★ – Indicates a best-of-the-offbeat restaurant, a place with unique and unusual appeal.
★★ – Indicates a restaurant worthy of special note, which has proved consistently to be one of the best of its kind.
★★★ – Indicates overall excellence, one of the city’s superior restaurants.
These listings are revised and supplemented periodically. Visits by our critics are made anonymously to avoid preferential treatment. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.
The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general price range.
$ – Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.
$$ – Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.
$$$ – Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $10 for a complete meal excluding wine and cocktails.
$$$$ – Very expensive.
Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.
Credit card notations: MC – Master Charge/BA – Bank Americard/AE – American Express/DC – Diner’s Club/CB – Carte Blanche/”AII Credit Cards” indicates that all the above are accepted.
Continental
★★Arthur’s. Once a rustic steakhouse, now a shimmering beef palace. Steak remains the pillar of the operation, but other options abound: lamb chops, veal chops, and calf’s liver to name a few favorites. American wines only – an intriguing and imaginative touch. Warm and classy with one of Dallas’ best bars. Live entertainment. (1000 Campbell Centre/361-8833/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)
The Balcony/ Fort Worth. It’s not often that you find food like this at prices like this – a bargain in French cuisine. A nicely varied menu of entrees and mostly good, including a delicious trout amandine. An odd but tasty touch: miniature egg rolls served gratis. It’s not without fault – the salads tend to be limp and the soups are suspect. A pleasant country-resort feeling – easy-going but gracious. 6100 Camp Bowie/ (817)713-3719/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat 10:30; closed Sun/ Reservations/ MC.BA.AE/ $$)
Le Bistro. A gracefully restored old house with dining rooms upstairs and down marked by a quiet, unadorned charm. The menu is classically French both in style and selection, bursting with promise. But in execution, the kitchen has proved capable of both brilliance and disappointment. Service is highly polished, efficient but not ebullient. (3716 Bowser, just off Oak Lawn/528-4181 /Mon-Fri 11:30a.m.-2 p.m., 6-10 p.m.; Sat & Sun 6-10 p.m./ Reservations/ MC,BA/$$$)
Le Blstro/ Fort Worth. Authenic French cooking in a restaurant low in atmosphere but high in personal care. Papa Henri executes with talent his own varied and distinctive menu (dinner selections range from Eggs Benedict to frog legs Provencale to medallions of veal; at lunch, try his crepes) and daughter Michelle serves it up with unassuming charm Extensive wine list (No relation to Le Bistro in Dallas) 3322 Camp Bowie/ (817)332-5102/ Brunch: Tue-Fn 11:30-2, Dinner: Tue-Sat 5:30-9:30/ Reservations/ MC.BA/ $$$)
Brasserie. A coffee shop extraordinaire and a 24-hour-a-day outlet tor the artistry of the Fairmont Hotel kitchen. Nowhere else can you eat a cheeseburger under chandeliers or snack on smoked salmon and eggs at three in the morning. Four different menus, each taking a shift, the dinner menu periodically changes its foreign focus Splendid pastries. (Fairmont Hotel. Ross & Akard/748-5454/24 hours, seven days a week/No reserva-tions/MC,BA,AE,DC/$$)
Brennan’s. While it doesn’t rival its illustrious New Orleans namesake, it does have its attractions. Perhaps the most extensive dinner menu in the entire city – almost any continental dish from land, air or sea. But still best for an elegant breakfast or Sunday brunch. And undoubtedly the nicest non-private dining room in all of downtown. (One Main Place/742-1911 /Breakfast & Lunch: 7-2:30 weekdays. 8-2:30 weekends; Dinner: Daily 6-10, till 11 weekends /Reservations /All credit cards/ $$$)
★★Calluaud. One of Dallas’ most civilized restaurants. Set in a small frame house, with a casual yet intimate atmosphere complemented by consistently fine French foods. Superb soups and excellent omelettes; and desserts not to be missed: simple and wonderful fruit tarts (try the apple) and exquisite profiteroles. The imaginative dinner menu changes frequently but has provided such items as a perfectly prepared fresh salmon steak and roast pork in a prune sauce. Prices are a bargain for the quality It’s easy to get hooked on this place. (2917 Fairmount oft Cedar Springs/ 745-9571 / Lunch: Mon-Fn 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Dinner: Mon-Fn 6:30-10:30. Sat till 11, closed Sun / Reservations’ MC,BA/ $$$)
Carriage House. Fort Worth. One of the oldest names in Fort Worth dining, the Carriage House is not the wonder it once was, but it still has its moments – to which a loyal and appreciative clientele will readily attest. It’s a meal of ups and downs; fine Old-plantation-style service but in a drab setting; excellent appetizers (have their splendid smoked salmon) but miserable soups; a fine Chateaubriand (beef dishes are their specialty) but served with canned peas and carrots; a very good wine list but very highly priced. (5236 Camp Bowie/ (817)732-2873/ Lunch: Sun-Fri 11-2; Dinner: Daily 6-7)/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/ $$$)
Chablis. Satisfying rather than sensational, dependable rather than dazzling, Chablis has quietly established a loyal clientele, particularly at lunch. A nice variety of regional French specialties with popular daily specials. Excellent quiche, salads, and sandwiches. And don’t pass up the apple pie with brandy butter. An attractive, low-key place. (120 Quadrangle. 2800 Routh/522-0910/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sal till midnight; closed Sun/Reservations on week-ends/MC,BA.AE/$S$)
Chateaubriand. A long-time Dallas fixture whose popularity survives in spite of a loud clash of styles including a glossy, almost garish, French provincial dining room with marble statues and chandeliers. The international menu sweeps from “Greek Veal” to “Pepper Steak – Hawaiian Style.” Many steaks and shellfish. Bargain daily hot luncheon specials. (3515 McKinney/741-1223/Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m. – midnight / Reservations / All credit cards/$$$)
The Chimney. A Swiss/Austrian style characterizes this kitchen and gives this restaurant some special appeal. The Naturschnitzel is a fine veal dish, as is the veal Zurich. For a twist, try the venison tourne-dos. Lunch is still served in the tearoom tradition that originally established The Chimney. The dining room is American colonial in motif – handsome but a bit lifeless. (Willowcreek, 9739 N Cen Expwy at Walnut Hill/369-6466/Lunch: Tue-Sat 11:30-2; Dinner; Tue-Sun 6-10:30/Sun brunch 11-2/Reservations /MC,AE/$$$)
Enclave. A fancily-appointed mood restaurant (in the subdued smoked-mirror-and-chandeliers tradition) – a place for those who relish the romance of candelight and soft mustic. Unfortunately, the food doesn’t measure up to the surroundings – from the copious menu you’ll get an adequate meal, but don’t expect the sublime. Lunch, more modest in range and price, is a better bet. Well-disciplined service and a tine wine list. (8325 Walnut Hill/ 363-7487/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11. bar till 12/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE, DC/ $$$)
Ewald’s. An inspired collection of veal dishes (Veal “Palm Beach” with Westphalian ham, hearts of palm, and béarnaise sauce) have given Ewald his loyal following. But he also serves a cognac-flamed pepper steak that ranks with the best in town. A smattering of other continental dishes (with a Swiss flavor) and a limited seafood selection. A small, plain – in fact bland – dining room. (5415 W Lovers Ln/357-1622/Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11 /Reservations/MC,BA/$$$)
★The Grape. Cozy, congenial, and crowded, the Grape delights its loyal fans with a wonderful array of cheeses from which you create your own elegant cheese board combinations. A daily menu of light entrees, plus lovely omelettes and great soups – the fresh mushroom has a reputation of its own. A diverse and interesting wine selection. An old and unassuming little place. (2808 Greenville Ave/823-0133/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Tue-Sun, 6-10:30, open later on Fri & Sal for wine and cheese only/No reservations/No credit cards/$$)
Marcel’s. Marcel is a charming host in the classic French tradition; it’s that French feeling that has made this a long-popular restaurant. That and a complete table d’hote dinner for only $6.50 – not the finest French cuisine in the city but certainly the best priced. Beef Wellington is the house specialty, but the real star may be the coq au vin. Relaxed, quiet dining. (5721 W Lovers Ln/358 2103/Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fn & Sat till midnight. Closed Mon/Reservations/MC,BA,AE,DC/$$)
★★Mr. Peppe. Some say it’s the best French restaurant in the city. Others cite inconsistencies and argue. Regardless, there is a friendly intimacy and refreshing informality at work here – a warm, dark, and cozy setting. Wonderful rack of lamb, superb pepper steak. And the pastries – owner/ chef Albert’s specialties – are almost too good to be true. (5617 W Lovers Ln/ 352-5976/ Mon-Sat 6-10/ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/ $$$)
Old Swiss House. Fort Worth. Many claim that this is Fort Worth’s finest. Certainly a Fort Worth favorite – the Kaufmann family has been serving fine continental cuisine here lor many years. Delightful veal dishes (the St. Moritz is rich and satisfying) and a daily fresh seafood special; never over-elaborate but always carefully prepared and seasoned. Great little complimentary cheese rolls and a lovely Boston lettuce dinner salad. Very nice wine selection. Not a particularly distinctive place, more comfortable than classy. And the service can seem hurried. (5412 Camp Bowie/ (817)738-8091 / Mon-Thur 6-10, Fn & Sat till 10:30. closed Sun/ Reservations/ MC,BA/ $$$)
Old Warsaw. Not always up to its glowing reputation and illustrious heritage, but the stately luxury and Old World appeal still prevail. The meal may have its ups and downs, but the entrees usually dazzle. A fine duck Bigarade and beautifully prepared seafood dishes. Service is sometimes perfect, sometimes far from it. Magnificent wine cellar. (2610 Maple/528-0032/Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight/Reservations/MC, BA,AE/$$$$)
★★★Oz. An odd location and financial tribulations have still not diminished the brilliance of the menu or the creative excellence of the kitchen – there is no finer food to be had in Dallas. A seasonal menu that sparkles with originality – rarely a disappointment, though you do pay dearly tor the privilege. A slightly jarring chrome and neon decor works better in the disco where a more modest menu is oftered. Extraordinary wine list. By membership. (5429 L8J Freeway/233-5755/Dinner: Mon-Thur 7-10, Fri& Sal till 11; Disco Mon-Fri 5 p.m.-2 a.m., Sat 7 p.m.-2 a.m.; closed Sun/Reservations re-quired/MC,BA,AE/$$$$)
Papillon. A well-balanced, well-executed continental menu including a particularly nice group of veal dishes and a good assortment of seafood. One of the city’s newer efforts in haute cuisine, but the kitchen staff is veteran and the expertise shows. Try the creme avocado soup. A contemporary design meets with traditional smoked-mirror decor to create an interesting if slightly disjointed effect. (7940 N Cen Expwy at Caruth Haven/691-7455/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat till midnight /Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)
★★Patry’s. Another contender in the ’best-French-restaurant-in-town ’ debate. A family-run operation with an obvious personal touch is one reason. A menu of exquisite hors d’oeuvres is another (have the stuffed leeks in cream sauce) The escalope of veal is the star of the entrees. Neither luxurious nor intimate, but that doesn’t deter a very loyal clientele. (2504 McKinney/748-3754/Tue-Fn 6-11, Sat till 11:30/Reservations/MC,8A,AE,DC/$$$)
Plaza Cafe. One of Dallas’ few nice spots for dining alfresco: the terrace was built and grown from scratch, so it’s not yet a garden paradise, but still offers the pleasure of eating outdoors, with a European cafe appeal. The menu is varied and light continental in nature, all from the dependable Bagatelle kitchen. Impressive cold buffet. Terrace closed mid-winter, indoor tables only. (One Energy Square, Greenville Ave at University 692-8224/Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-midnight. Fri & Sat till 1 a.m./Reservations/MC, BA,AE/$$)
★★★Pyramid Room. The classiest dining room in Dallas – an aura of affluence and impeccable taste A paragon of service – absolutely professional but without pomposity, including a theatrical sommelier A dizzying dinner menu of French specialties of the highest order (lunch is less glamorous). The Grand Marnier dessert souffle is a triumph. In sum, Dallas’ finest restaurant. But even at that, capable of disappointment because it is so expensive. Too expensive. But always a pleasure if you can pay the price. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard/ 748-5454/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily 6-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$$)
Italian
★Camplsi’s Egyptian Restaurant. The best pizza in town – at least if the crowds that always line up outside are an indication. Otherwise, the Italian fare is pretty ordinary. A busy, noisy, tacky delight. (5610 E Mockingbird/’827-0355/Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat till 1 a.m., Sun noon-midnight/No credit cards. Checks accepted/Reservations for 6 or more/$)
lanni’s. An undistinguished shopping center facade, an entry lobby tacked with Dallas sports photos and celebrity glossies, and a dining room that’s a vineyard of plastic grapes doesn’t bode well. But lanni’s can surprise you. It’s relaxed and unpretentious – a throwback to simpler dining. The waitresses are pros and the kitchen is sound if not stunning. And the homemade Italian sausage is as good as any in town. 2230 Greenville/ 826-6161/ Daily 5:30-11 p.m./ Reservations/ MC,AE/$$)
★★II Sorrento. The best Italian food in Dallas in a marvelously hokey setting – like a Hollywood designer’s dream of Venice, complete with strolling musicians and bread vendors. The fettucine Alfredo and the tagliatelle – both prepared at your table – are standouts among the pasta dishes, and there’s a wide variety of fine veal dishes crowned by the Marsala and piccata. Classy service. (8616 Turtle Creek/352-8759/Daily 5:30-11, Sat till midnight/Reservations except on Fri & Sat/ All credit cards/$$$)
Italian Pavilion. This overdone (fancy-tacky) dining room atop the LeBaron Hotel seems an unlikely setting for fine Italian dining. But fine it can be. Try any of the veal dishes – the saltimbocca in a superb marsala sauce is particularly good. Excellent appetizers and desserts and an interesting Italian wine list combine to make this a place worth a visit. (LeBaron Hotel, 1055 Regal Row at Carpenter Fwy/ 634-8550/ Mon-Sat 6-11 p.m./ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)
Mario’s. On a good night, this plush restaurant is unsurpassed for Italian cuisine in Dallas. The veal with mushrooms and artichoke hearts is famous, and the Frittura Delizie Romano and fried zucchini, which accompany all entrees, are terrific. Great spumoni, and a fine selection of Italian wines. (135 Turtle Creek Village/521-1135/Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$$)
Pietro’s. Home-style Sicilian cooking with flocks of regular customers. The standouts are the pasta dishes – manicotti, cannelloni, fettucine alia Ro-mana, lasagna with meat sauce, and spaghetti ma-rinara – and old standbys like pizza (order the special Sicilian style in advance) and garlic bread (baked on the premises). Giant frosted schooners of beer. (5722 Richmond off Greenville/824-9403/Tue-Thur 5:30-10 p.m., Fri & Sal till 11 p. m. /No reservations/No credit cards/$$)
Oriental
China Inn. A dependable restaurant with a Cantonese emphasis. Standouts are the sweet-and-sour dishes, the ginger beef, and war sue har (batter-fried shrimp with a “country-style” sauce). Huge eggrolls and excellent homemade almond cookies. Low-keyed and comfortable. (6521 E Northwest Hwy/ 369-7733/ Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 5-10:30 p.m.; Sat till midnight: Sun 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m./ Reservations/ MC,BA,AE/ $$)
★★Hunan. Currently Dallas’ best Chinese restaurant. The Hunan cuisine that is its specialty is milder than you’ll find in New York, but still potent. Have the “pu pu tray” of appetizers, and then you’re on your own – it’s all good (though we recommend Hunan Lamb, Champagne Chicken, and Shrimp with Garlic Sauce). Small and comfortable (5214 Greenville Ave at Lovers Ln 369-4578 Mon-Thur 11:30 am.-11 p.m., Fri, Sal & Sun 11-midnight/Reservations MC,BA,AE/$$)
Peking Palace. Once Dallas’Oriental best, but it hasn’t quite kept up with the booming competition. Too many items taste warmed-over, but the Sze-chuan-style selections are, for the most part, excellent (try the shredded pork with garlic sauce). And the Won Ton soup is the best in town Peking Duck, their supreme appetizer, must be ordered in advance. And still the most pleasant dining room of any Dallas Oriental restaurant. (4119 Lomo Alto/522-1830/Lunch: Mon-Fn 1130-2:30; Dinner: Mon- Thur 5-11, Fri & Sal till midnight, Sun noon-10 p.m. /Reservations on weekends MC,BA, AE/$$)
Ports o’ Call. The greatest view (from the top of Southland Center) of any Dallas restaurant, and that almost makes up tor the tact that the food – ranging from Chinese to Polynesian – is only okay. The decor is extravagant, and so are the bar concoctions (some so potent they limit you to two). A good place to take out-of-towners. (Southland Center, 2117 Live Oak/742-2334 Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily 5:30-10:30/Reservations/All credit cards /$$$)
Royal China. A friendly place with a loyal clientele, a most gracious host, and some unusual menu items: Tea Smoked Duck, Golden Crown of Pork, and Dry Stir Beef. All the food is attractively presented – the chef even sculpts elegant little butterflies from carrots. Unfortunately, the appetizers are on the greasy side. (201 Preston Royal Shopping Center/ 361-1771 or 368-9692 Tues-Sun 11:30-2:30 and 5:30-10 p.m., closed Mon/MC,BA, AE/$$)
South China. An unassuming restaurant that specializes in Mandarin cuisine. The dishes with black bean sauce are the standouts, as well as the spicy chicken with pecans, barbecued pork with vegetables, and the shredded beet with hot sauce Excellent soups and appetizers. (5424 E Mockingbird,’826-5420 Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30, Sal & Sun noon-230. Dinner: Daily 5-10. Fn & Sat till 11 /Reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$)
Trader Vic’s. One of the best of a variable chain of Oriental-Polynesian restaurants, this one has excellent hors d’oeuvres (try the “Cosmo Tidbit” platter), a fine limestone lettuce salad, and well-prepared entrees We suggest the curries, the almond duck, lobster Cantonese, or the Indonesian lamb roast. Exotic and powerful rum concoctions. (Hilton Inn. 5600 N Cen Expwy/ 827-3620/ Daily 5-11:30 p.m., weekends till midnight/Reservations/ All credit cards /$$$)
Yet Lau. A neighborhood Chinese restaurant with down-home Texas waitresses and a devoted clientele Soups and appetizers are so-so, but the entrees – try the Chicken Long Hut – are carefully prepared. The decor is pretty awful, but the food makes up for it. (6635 E Lovers Ln at Northwest Hwy/691-3112/Sun-Thur 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri & Sat 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m./Reservations/MC, BA/$$)
Mexican
Chiquita. The reputation for greatness here was not built on consistency – Chiquita is sometimes lovely, sometimes lousy. The Tex-Mex has never been sublime, but on a good day the chiles rellenos are generously stuffed and the steak dishes are usually a good bet – try the filete a la Chiquita and ask for the special garlic sauce. The trimmings are always nice – a good complimentary bean soup, and great chicken-sour cream nachos. Always crowded with the many who love it. (3325 Oak Lawn/ 521-0721/ Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m./ No reservations/ MC,BA/ $$)
DREVISITS Royal Tokyo. Has success be- gun to spoil Royal Tokyo? Recent remodeling has made the interior somewhat more pleasant, but it has also added a loud piano bar. The tempura, which was once leathery, is now sometimes rather lumpish and underdone. But worst of all, the service has become wildly unpredictable – sometimes gracious and helpful, sometimes inept. On a recent visit, old favorite dishes like shabu-shabu and the teriyaki dinner were carelessly prepared, and the once-delicate sunomono salad was marred by limp cucumber slices and an excess of vinegar. Let’s hope tor a temporary slump, for when Royal Tokyo has been good it has been superb. (7525 Greenville Ave/ 368-3304/ Lunch: Daily 11:30-2, except Sat: Dinner: Mon-Thur 5 30-11. Fri & Sat till 11:30, Sun 5-10/ Reservations/ MC, BA,AE/ $$)
D REVISITS
Herrera Cafe. When Herrera’s decided, several months ago, to open a second and larger location on Lemmon Avenue, its cult of loyalists shuddered. Could Herrera’s possibly maintain its style and quality outside the confines of the tiny adobe hovel on Maple? The answer, it seems, is yes and no. The new location is a ludicrous looking place, sort of like a franchised Mexican bordello with a fluorescent light motif. But no matter – it’s always been the food that counted at Herrera’s, and here at #2 it’s usually still the same great stuff. But no longer a certainty – occasionally the soft cheese tacos will be a little short on flavor or the chicken enchiladas in “Spanish sauce” (usually a stellar item) will be a little watery, despite the fact that the kitchen staff at Lemmon is the group that started it all on Maple. The original cafe, meanwhile, seems to dish it out just like old times: fat flour tortillas hot off the grill, wonderful burritos of those same tortillas stuffed with beans and beet, great guacamole, ever-changing but always-potent hot sauce, menudo that’s a community favorite, and, as always, the best nachos in town. And still only nine tables, a dilapidated “dining room,” bring your own beer, and a line at mealtimes that often pokes out the door. Unless you want the benefits of the bar at Lemmon or don’t want to wait in line, the first is still the best. (3902 Maple/ 526-9427/ Weekdays 9 a.m.-8 p.m., weekends till 10; closed Tue/ 3708 Lemmon/ 528-2250/ Daily 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri & Sat till 10 p.m./No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)
Mariano’s. A stylish dining room with a big, festive cantina and a lively mariachi band keeps this place hopping. The menu runs the gamut, but the food is really only average and a bit expensive for Mexican food It you’re lour or more in number, go for “The Revolution” – a little of everything for $10 apiece. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/691-3888/Mon-Thur 11 am.-midnight, bar till 1 a.m.; Fri & Sat 11 a.m.-11:30 p.m., bar till 2 a.m.; Sun 4:30-10:30 p.m., bar till midnight/No reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$)
★★Raphael’s. All in all, Dallas’ best Mexican restaurant – and oh the crowds to prove it. From puffed tacos to shrimp enchiladas you can’t go wrong, but take note that the chicken-sour cream enchiladas are the best in town. A lovely old place with warm, wooden, ranchero style. (3701 McKin-ney/521-9640/Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Sal noon-1030, closed Sun/Reservations Mon-Thur only/MC,8A,AE/$$)
El Taxco. Maybe the best dining value in Dallas. Dependable Tex-Mex right down to the refried beans just the way they ought to be – and at very low prices. A subtle style with less hot seasonings make it an especially good spot for newcomers to Mexican food. A casual, friendly cafe. (2126 N St.Paul/742-0747/Wed-Mon 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m., closed Tue/No reservations/MC/$)
Greek
Goldfinger. In the limited realm of Greek cuisine in Dallas, Goldfinger serves some of the best. But still, this is as much a nightclub (live music with belly dancing) as it is a restaurant and the food is only good, not great. The combination dinner of souv-laki and large charcoaled shrimp is nice and rack of lamb is the house specialty. And the dolmas are great. (2905 Cridelle/350-6983/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2; Dinner: Sun-Thur 6-11, Fri & Sat till midnight/Reservations on weekends/MC,BA,AE/$$)
Greek Key. A festive spot with a longstanding clientele who revel with the staff in Greek folk dances. Live Greek music and, of course, belly dancers. The menu has all the standard Greek specialties – moussaka, etc. – plus steaks and lobster. For a good Greek sampling, try the combination plate or the daily lunch buffet. (2930 W Northwest Hwy/358-5177/Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2 p.m., closed Sun/All credit cards/Reservations/$$)
Indian
D REVISITS
India House. Step inside, out of the bleak parking lot in this pecu- liar restaurant shopping center, and you could be in an Indian restaurant in New York or London. That Dallas has a good Indian restaurant suggests that the city is becoming more sophisticated, perhaps more adventurous in its dining. Adventure is the right word, for Indian cuisine will strike the novice as exotic to say the least – especially if your concept of it is Spice Islands curry powder or Major Gray’s chutney. The real stuff is made with blends of seasoning that don’t come in jars. Fortunately, the staff at India House is helpful in guiding you through the menu. If you’re really adventurous – want to try a bit of everything – the Shahi House Dinner gives you the whole range of the menu, but you may also find the combinations of tastes a bit overwhelming. You may also find, if you’re already familiar with Indian cuisine, that India House isn’t always what it should be: on a recent visit, the chicken Tandoori was overcooked, the rice was sticky. But given the range of the menu, you’re bound to discover something to please – or at least to give you a new taste to ponder. (5422 E Mockingbird/ 823-1000/ Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10. Fri & Sat till 11/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)
Southern SpecialtiesAngelo’s/Fort Worth. A name that’s known across the state as one of Texas’ premiere barbecue pits. And it is. Great beef, rich spicy sauce, big sand-wiches, cold draught, and a setting that fits – West Texas rustic and sawdust floors. And over-looking the proceedings is a monstrous stuffed bear – a landmark himself. 2533 White Settlement Rd/ (817)332-0357/ Mon-Sat 11-10/ No reserva-tions/ No credit cards/ $)The Black-Eyed Pea. Three locations, but the origi-nal, on Cedar Springs, is the hot spot, with old-time Texana style. Chicken tried steak is the big item. And, of course, black-eyed peas. Plus big burgers, unusual sandwiches. Black-Eyed Pea Too is small-er and dry. Ill on Greenville features butterfly pork chops. (3857 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn/526-9478/Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat till midnight. Sun noon-11 /Too, 6912 Snider Plaza/369-5011 /Daily 11 a.m.-9 p.m. except Sun noon-9/lll, 4814 Green-ville Ave near University/361 -5979/Hours same as Cedar Springs/No reservations/MC,AE/$)Celebration. Some of the homestyle pride seems oc-casionally to be missing from the homestyle cook-ing since the expansion of this friendly place. But still a good spot lor a wholesome meal at a reason-able price. Pot roast is the best of the five entrees. Plus big bowls of good family-style-help-yourself vegetables. Beer and wine are available now, but try the apple juice at least once – it’s great. (4503 W Lovers Ln/ 351-5681/ Mon-Sat 5:30-11, Sun till 10:30/ No reservations/ MC,BA/ $)Mr. Chicken. Many rate it the best fried chicken in town. Small town cafe style (including TV). Chick-en and dumplings and other plate lunches; grilled steaks. And luscious onion rings. Beer only. (5114 Greenville Ave near Lovers Ln/363-6969/Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m./No reservations/No credit cards/$)Red Moon Cafe. A charming and romantic little Eu-ropean-cafe setting helps hide the consistently in-consistent kitchen. But when they’re on, the fea-tured Creole cooking (more Spanish than French in influence) can be a treat. Open for breakfasts trimmed with grits and biscuits. (4537 Cole/526-5391 /Mon-Sat 7-2:30, 6-10/No reservations /No credit cards/$$)Shanghai Jimmy’s Chill Rice. A Dallas institution that’s come and gone and come again. Now on Lemmon, Jimmy still dishes out the same great stuff: a tub of rice topped with chili and your choice of onions, celery, Cheddar, and sweet relish. Mix it all up and you’ve got a meal. Lemonade only. (4708 Lemmon Ave near Douglas/No phone/Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m., except Sun 5-10 p.m./No reser-vations/No credit cards/$)★ Sonny Bryan’s. Best barbecue in town? You’ll nev-er get a consensus, but this one gets a lot of votes. Juicy, juicy stuff in a funky, funky little smoke-house. No tables – you eat on individual school desk tops. Beer, no bar. (2202 lnwood/357-7120/Mon-Sat 6 a.m.-6:30 p.m., Sun 11-2/No res-ervations/No credit cards/$)Southern Kitchen. An all-you-can-eat feast in the tradition of the Old South: fried chicken, smoked chicken, fried shrimp, fried trout, and deviled crab plus appetizers and many other trimmings. Nothing extraordinary (except the luscious cinnamon rolls) but the magnitude alone is impressive. (West, 2356 W Northwest Hwy/352-5220/East, 6615 E Northwest Hwy/’368-1658/Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30 p.m., Sun 5-10 p.m./Reservations tor 5 or more/All credit cards/$$)
Seafood
Oporto Oyster Bar. Stick to the simple things here, like the luscious oysters on the half shell, the Boston scrod, the broiled red snapper, the whole baby flounder or the broiled Maine Lobster. A predictable decor of casual-nautical – but nice. Service is the chief variable in what is, by default. Dallas’ best seafood restaurant. (2929 N Henderson/826-2553/Daily 5-11 p.m., Fri & Sat till midnight/No reservations/BA,AE/$$)
S & D Oyster Company. A handsomely restored 19th century livery/ grocery building with brick walls and bentwood chairs lending themselves to a mild New Orleans atmosphere. Oysters are the specialty – delicious whether on the half-shell or fried. Also boiled or fried shrimp, a pleasant gumbo, and broiled flounder or snapper. Beer and wine only. A welcome addition to the limited sea fare in town. (2701 McKinney near Routh/ 823-6350/ Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat till 11, closed Sun/ No reservations/ MC/ $$)
Vehon’s. An unpretentious oyster bar that grew into a shlocky restaurant, Vehon’s still serves the best oysters in town, giant red Spanish shrimp, baked (not broiled) rainbow trout, catfish, and – a rarity in Dallas – a properly black, hot gumbo. Casual to the point of crudeness, but there are lots who love it. (4844 Greenville Ave/368-8911/Mon-Sat 11 a. m.-11 p.m., Sun 5-11 p.m./Reservations/All credit cards/$$)
Natural Foods
Ar|un’s. Low-keyed and attractive surroundings for imaginative food that’s good for you. The hot entree changes daily, and it’s usually excellent, but they always have delicious, huge, unweildy avocado sandwiches, generous fresh fruit and vegetable salads, good soups, and custom-made smoothies. (4220 Oak Lawn/S26-4050/Mon-Fn 11-3, 5-9; Sat 11-9/No reservations/No credit cards/$)
Delicatessens
Black Forest. Austrian-style food – sausages, sa-lamis, coffee cakes, breads, a lovely cold cut platter, and excellent sandwiches- Try the veal sausages with hash browns and black bread, and any of the pastries. Excellent selection of German beers and wines. (5819 Blackwell off E Northwest Hwy/368-4490/Mon-Fri 8 a.m.-6 p.m., Sat till 5 p. rn./No reservations/BA/$)
★Kuby’s. Busy, bustling, with excellent homemade sausages (served with hot potato salad or sauerkraut), thick sandwiches (try the pastrami), great pastries, and a soup of the day which is a lunch-time bargain (60￠). A congenial spot with a German accent. (6601 Snider Plaza/363-2231 /Mon-Sat 830-2:30, sandwiches till 5:30/No reserva-tions/MC – $15 minimum/$)
D REVISITS
walls. This coffee-shop-styled licatessen has long been touted as the best place in town for kosher-style food. It earns the superlative, but often only by default. With uneven food quality and service that ranges from fawning to brusque, the dining experience can change with the weather. Sandwiches are the surest bet, though the chopped liver is not up to the quality of the cold cuts. Soups range from mediocre to good; the matzoh ball soup is ho-hum, the cabbage soup is a standout. And the kosher-style standards such as gefilte fish, herring in sour cream, and cheese blintzes are all very tasty. Still a worthy stop for the displaced New Yorker or the insatiable corned beef fan. (10749 Preston Rd/ 691-4444/ Daily 7:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m./ MC,BA/ $)
Steaks, Burgers, Etc.Baby Doe’s Matchless Mine. Right out of Six Flags, this extravagant re-creation of an old silver mine is so overdone it somehow works. Perched atop Goat Hill with a panoramic, if not beauteous, view to the west. The food is secondary but quite satisfactory – mainly steaks, prime rib. Huge “underground” disco. No reservations, long waits. (3305 Harry Hines near Oak Lawn Ave/741-9771 Daily 11 a. m.-2:30 p.m., 5-11 p.m., except Sun 5-11 p.m. only; disco till 2 a.m./No reservations /MC, BA/$$$)Blue’s Lakefront Bar and Grille. The simplest but perhaps sturdiest operation in the Gene Street em-pire. The fare is basic – hamburgers and hot dogs. Fourteen species of burgers, mostly half-pounders, and they’re quite good. For a strange and filling treat, try the Cordon-Bleu Burger. Huge onion rings. With a partial view of Bachman Lake, this renovation restaurant is a cross between lake cottage and coffee shop – odd. but comfortable. 3407 W Northwest Hwy/ 351-9510/ Daily 11-11. except Sun noon-11; Bar till midnight, later week-ends/ No reservations/ MC,BA,AE/ $)Cattleman’s/ Fort Worth. A famous Texas name that still delivers, and still from its original location right in the heart of stockyards. The steaks are the thing here and they’re terrific – you can watch them being cooked on the grills at the end of each dining room. Lots of other options, ranging from calf fries (“Mountain Oysters”) to lobster and spaghetti. 2458 N. Main/ (817)624-3945/ Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-10.45 p.m., Sat 4-1-:45 p.m., closed Sun/ Reser-vations/ MC.BA,AE,CB/$$)★ Chill’s. A handsome burger joint. Good chili, un-usual soft tacos of flour tortillas, and, best of all, long, thin, greasy french fries with the skin still onthem. Always hopping – you’ll likely wait in line. (7567 Greenville Ave at Meadow Rd/361-4371/Daily 11 a.m.-midnight, Fri & Sal till 2 a.m./ No reservations/MC,BA,AE/$) Daddy’s Money. A something for everybody menu: steak, chicken, seafood, etc. But the standout is the charcoaled rack of lamb. The Old Town loca-tion is a slick and busy place with a lively bar. The North Dallas outlet is more relaxed, more elegant. Nice Sunday brunch. (Old Town, 5500 Green-ville/363-8686/Daily 11-11. Fri & Sat till 12:30 a. m., Sun 10 a.m.-11 p.m., bar till 1 a.m. nightly/ North Dallas, 4855 LBJ Frwy at lnwood/387-3800/Daily 11 a.m.-1 a.m., Fri & Sat till 2a.m., Sun10 a.m.-11 p.m./Reservations/MC,BA,AE,DC/S$)★The Den. A distinctive spot in the venerable oldStoneleigh Hotel with a convivial clientele of vari-ous professional types – like a seasoned Upper East Side bar. Terrific cheeseburgers, a great prime rib sandwich, chef’s specials. Dallas’ best bartending. And free popcorn. (2927 Maple/742-71 11 /Restaurant: Mon-Fri 6 a.m.-9 p.m., Sat & Sun 6 a.m.-1 a.m.; Bar: Mon-Fri 11 a.m.-midnight, closed Sat & Sun/MC,DC,AE,CB/$$) The Filling Station. The last word on motif dining. An old gas station transformed into a restaurant. Auto-mobile paraphernalia abounds, gas pumps dis-pense beer at the bar, and the Mobil flying horse hovers over it all. “Ethyl,” “Regular,” and “Low Lead” (no bun) hamburgers. No kidding. (6862 Greenville Ave near Park Lane/691 -4488/Tue-Sat11 a.m.-1 a.m., Sun & Mon till midnight/No reser-vations/MC, BA,AE/$)Houlihan’s. If you want it, they’ve probably got it. From escargots to cheeseburgers, from crab New-burg to Belgian waffles, from omelettes to roast duck, from crépes to steak. And, considering the range, the overall quality is surprisingly good. An-tique clutter motif. Often long lines. (4 NorthPark East/361-9426/Daily 11 a.m.-1:30 a.m./No reser-vations/MC, BA,AE/$$)Ichabod’s. Slick in the Greenville Avenue tradition, but Ichabod’s is nevertheless a very pleasant and dependable place. The key to their success is a limited menu of steaks and seafood with nothing so elaborate that the kitchen staff can’t handle it. There are a few nicely imaginative touches, like a “relish tray” of raw fresh vegetables instead of a tired salad. A nice dining area with its own en-trance to separate it from the teeming swingles bar. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/691-2646/Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Daily 6-11 /No reser-vations/MC, BA,AE, CB/$$)★ Kirby’s. Dallas’ original steakhouse and time has only enhanced its appeal. No gimmicks, waitresses of the old school, and good food values. The “spe-cial cut” sirloin strip is big and beautiful and the creamy garlic house dressing is alone enough for some fans. (3715 Greenville/823-7296/Tue-Sun 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight/Reservations/All credit cards/$$)The Pawn Shop. A smartly designed and decorated bar with balcony drinking parlors and a big bar that swarms at happy hour with swingle mingling. A ba-sic and unspectacular menu of steaks, shrimp, chicken, etc. And if backgammon is your game, this is your bar. (5601 Greenville across from Old Town/691-2411 /Daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m./Reserva-tions/MC,BA,AE/$$)Railhead. Consistently the best of the steak-and-sal-ad-bar scene. The salad bar has creative possibili-ties and the prime rib may be the best around. Heavy on the railroad theme and super-smile ser-vice. (6919 Twin Hills Ave at Park Ln/369-8700/Lunch; Daily 11-2; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5:30-11, Fri & Sat 5-11:30, Sun 5-10:30; bar till 2 a.m. nightly/Reservations (on weekends before 7 p.m. and after 10:30 p.m. only)/MC,BA,AE/$$$)★Stonelelgh P. An Oak Lawn favorite and eclectic hangout. A restoration of what was long a pharma-cy – clever but not cutesy. Provolone cheese-burgers on pumpernickel are the favorite among many goodies. Great magazine rack (browsing en-couraged) and fabulous juke box (from Bach to Stones). (2926 Maple/741 -0824/Mon-Thur 11:15-midnight. Fri & Sat till 1:30 a.m., Sun 12-12; bar daily till 1 a.m., Fri & Sat till 2/No reservations/No credit cards/$)
* Strictly Ta-Bu. A terrific old neighborhood bar with a mixed bag clientele. The original 1948 decor has been virtually untouched and charms with its classy-tacky effect. Great pizza, great burgers; plus steaks, sandwiches. Live jazz most nights and an occasional free flick. (4111 Lomo Alto/526-9325/Sun-Thur 11:30 a.m-1 a.m., Fri & Sat till 2/ No reservations/MC,BA/$$)
T.G.I. Friday’s. A popular and dependable old standby. Once singles central, now a hangout for everybody. Steaks, burgers, shrimp, chicken – never flashy but always big portions at reasonable prices. The chef salad is gigantic – a masterpiece. Fun and comfortable. (Old Town, 5500 Green-ville/363-5353/Daily 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m./No reser-vations/MC,BA,AE/$$)
Mainly For Lunch
The Bronx. A surprisingly quiet little spot amidst the Cedar Springs sideshow. The fare is simple but stylish: for example, a plate of bagels and lox with red onions and cream cheese or a pretty omelette with a bagel and a side of terrific Italian sausage-Atmosphere (rustic and woody) but without coming on too strong. Beer (lots of imports) and wine only. 3835 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn/ 521-5821/ Daily 11:30 a.m.-12:30 a.m., bar till 2/ No reservations/ MC/ $$)
Ciro’s. Great Sicilian-style pizza and an attractive array of elaborate sandwiches in an airy, old-time corner store at McKinney and Hall. The “wine bar” serves fine wines by the glass, the beers include some nice imports, and there’s a great hard apple cider with a real kick. (3237 McKinney at Hall/745-9464/Mon-Wed 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Thur & Fri till midnight. Sat till 1 a.m., closed Sun/No reservations MC/$$)
La Crêperie. The lovely courtyard patio is a major attraction. A choice of some fifty varieties of crepes. Service is often slow. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/651-0506/Sun-Thur 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri & Sat till 11 p.m./Reservations recommended/MC, BA,DC/$$)
Gallery Buffet. An expertly catered buffet table at the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts, featuring hearty soups, salads, homemade breads, and desserts for only $2.50. Wine extra. (DMFA, Fair Park/421-4187/Tue-Fri 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m./No reservations/No credit cards/$)
The Lunch Basket Tearoom. Bright and cozy. Homemade lunches with unusual salads and soups, and homemade tea breads that you can also buy by the loaf. Foreign blend coffees and teas. (6617 Snider Plaza. Studio 216/ 369-3241/ Mon-Sat 10 a.m.-5 p.m./ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)
Magic Pan. A very popular place with a delicious selection of crêpes, including outstanding dessert crepes. Very crowded during the week, but nice tor Sunday brunch or late night after-theatre snacks. (NorthPark – New Mall/692-7574/Mon-Thur 11 a.m.-midnight, Fri till 1 a.m., Sat 10 a.m-1 a.m., Sun 10 a.m.-midnight/No reservations/MC,BA, AE/$$)
Upper Crust. Homestyle specialties like chicken & dumplings and red beans & rice, plus wonderful buttermilk pie and a great buttermilk salad dressing. Also sandwiches and homemade soups. A casual “indoor courtyard” setting. (Olla Podrida. 122 15 Coil Rd/661-5738/Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3; Dinner: Thur only, 5:30-8:30/No reservations/No credit cards/$)
Zodiac Room. A stunning effect with salads as handsome as they are tasty, and an irresistible array ofdesserts – including their famous strawberryshortcake. Always crowded. Wine and beer. (Nei-man-Marcus, downtown/ 741 -6911 /Mon-Sat 10:30a.m.-2:30 p.m.; teatime daily 3-5 p.m. exceptThur 2:30-3:30; Thur dinner 5-7 p.m./Reservations/Neiman-Marcus charge card only, checksaccepted/$$)
