Restaurant rating can be a highly arbitrary process. These listings have been compiled not only from our own experiences, but also from evaluations solicited from a cross-section of the city’s epicures. The listings are not meant to be conclusive, but are designed to convey an idea of what to expect. Visits by our critics are made incognito to avoid preferential treatment.
Restaurants, of course, change. These listings will be revised and supplemented periodically to reflect those changes. To that end, opinions and comments from our readers will receive careful consideration.
These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit, then, that we recommend them highly. Where criticism is imposed, it is as a service to our readers, indicating that in a particular area of service or cuisine a restaurant does not fully meet the standards of excellence expected of it. If and when those negative conditions improve, we will happily note the change for the better in the listings. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.
The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general range.
$-Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.
$$-Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.
$$$-Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $8 for a complete meal.
Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.
Credit card notations: MC-Master Charge/ BA-BankAmericard/ AE-American Express/ DC-Diner’s Club’ CB-Carte Blanche/ “All Credit Cards” indicates that all of the above are accepted.
Newcomers
Chateau Madrid. The name, the waiters and waitresses in Cordoban costume, and the flamenco guitarist all suggest Spain, but the menu is really more of a continental sampling. The few true Spanish specialties are the paella (a reasonably authentic version), arroz con polio, and, from the dessert selection, a nice flan. Other choices include filet of sole, broiled lamb chops, stuffed chicken breast, lobster, steak – all generously garnished with vegetables and preceded by a huge salad, a lavish production with artichoke hearts, baby shrimp, melon balls, and sliced egg among other things. An odd location may prove difficult, but the handsome dining room of dark wood and white linen and an eager staff should help. There is also a discotheque in an entirely separate room. (6116 N Cen Expwy near Yale Blvd/361-9037/Weekdays 5:30-10 p.m., weekends till 11/ Reservations/ MC, AE, DC/ $$$)
Collection Plate. In a relatively remote spot amidst the hubbub of Greenville Ave., a friendly little place called the Collection Plate has quietly opened its doors – and is serving some of the best sandwiches in town. For example, the UFO: Italian sausage, bell peppers, onion, lettuce, red sauce, served in warm Lebanese bread. Or the Highroller: meatballs, braised onions & green peppers, Italian sauce, on French roll. Also ham and pro-volone melted on French roll, roast beef, a vegetarian sandwich, and others – all big and delicious, $1.50-$1.95. If you catch the chef when he’s not too busy and he’s in one of his creative moods, he might make you a “custom” sandwich – you name it, he’ll put it on. A bonus with each sandwich is a little spinach and mushroom salad with one of the chefs unusual special dressings. (A new feature, just initiated at press time, is a dinner plate – limit of 40 per night – changing nightly, ranging from pot roast to spaghetti with fresh vegetables and dessert, about $3.) Bring your own beer, wine. (6754 Greenville south of Park/361-8753/ Mon-Sat 10 a.m.-W p.m./ No reservations/ MC/ $)
Grand Hotel. A strikingly different kind of place. Set in the congenial atmosphere of a spacious old Oak Lawn house and brightly redecorated with a little chrome moderne here, a little art deco there, a little fireplace homeyness there. The menu is equally schizophrenic, and equally enticing. Choose from such oddities as Lebanese appetizers (babaga-nough, homus); oysters; rich, creamy cold avocado soup; a fine zucchini salad; red beans and rice; a super Italian sausage sandwich; shrimp marinade; or a strange thing called Chicken Volcano. Most everything comes with delicious French rolls. And if that’s not enough, the Godiva chocolate pie in a walnut crust will send your taste buds reeling. Imported beer; wines from Greece, Hungary, and Argentina as well as more familiar places; full bar and lounge. They’ve been known to run out of food during the early weeks of operation, so for a late meal you might call ahead to be sure. (3205 Oak Lawn/521-8520/Daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m./No reservations /No credit cards/$$)
Tidbits
The menu has not always been an art form. It used to be that the menu was simply the thing that you ordered your food from. But, as Americans have become increasingly enamored with eating as recreation, the menu has taken on new significance. Today’s menu is a restaurant’s coat of arms, its ambassador of good will, its public relations director, a sort of cardboard maitre d’. It has also provided a new form of entertainment while waiting for a meal – menu reading. A study of Dallas menus reveals some of the current directions in these art forms.
One of the early indicators of things to come in the field of menu art was the period of new physical forms (circa 1968) when suddenly menus began to arrive at the table in radical new shapes: on meat cleavers, on easels, on scrolls, and branded on leather. There soon followed the dawning of the thematic age, marked by such phenomena as the English theme restaurant with its “Bill O’Fare” or “Ye Olde Menue.” Close to follow was the all-important train period (circa 1972) when dining in railroad cars became the fashion and menus boasted such items as the “Conductor’s Cut,” the “Engineman’s Cut,” “Station Master’s Desserts” and, of course, the “Baggage Cart Salad Bar.” This form has proven extremely durable and has seen such modern offshoots as “Main Line Fare,” “Side Tracks,” and an inspired “Station Potations.” Of course, the inevitable corruptions of the form have also occurred; for example, the crude and awkward “Junction Sangria.” A partisan, and by some opinion tasteless, modification of the thematic menu came in the form of rah-rah dishes such as “UT Specials: Royal Combination, Bevo Combination, Big Bertha Special, Burritos – Darrell’s Favorite.”
Modern day (1975) thematic menus show the same inventive spirit, but lack the old thorough craftsmanship. A new gas-sta-tion-themed restaurant offers the “Ethyl Hamburger,” the “Regular Hamburger,” the “Low Lead Hamburger,” but then, alas, the “Biggie Hot Dog” where it seems the artist simply ran out of gas.
A fascinating modern sub-genre of menu art is the increasingly popular wine description. Some strive for taste description: “A luscious, sweet, grapy wine” leads one Dallas menu’s description of an Italian Moscato. Others seek to capture the wine’s nobility: “a judicious blend, creating brilliance, warmth, and richness.” Others convey the technical qualities: “A Crackling Rosé” or “A Lightly, Brightly, Sprightly Wine” or “a lovely, semi-sweet, clean wine” (which, one assumes, is closely related to a lovely, sweet, semi-clean wine). Occasionally a description will offer an interesting historical fact: “Dom Perignon – 007’s favorite champagne” or “A Light, Lively, Fruity Wine from Verona, Home of Romeo and Juliet.” A few rare variations offer keen insight into foreign drinking customs: “Champagnes – For festive occasions and before, during, and after your dinner.”
Food description is, of course, the mainstay of menu art. Again, Dallas menus offer many variations. Some are brief and to the point: “Greasy-type hamburger”; “Potato natural”; “real clear turtle; soup”; “sopapillas – a puffy yum-yum.” Others are highly prosaic or poetic: an omelette “liberally punctuated with mushrooms” or a dolma whose “ingredients are as pure as a mother’s love.” There is also the no-nonsense approach: “We suggest you try some of everything.”
Some food descriptions are rather cryptic, a real challenge to the menu reader: the spaghetti in a “cheese sauce, not a tomato in sight!” or “cabbage leaves stuffed with mysterious herbs” or “Half Avocado Gourmet.” Others are downright foreboding. “Shrimp, swimming in our special sauce.” “Brought to you piping hot on a metal sword.” “This sauce was originated by Italian sailors during their fishing trips.” The local classic of the foreboding genre is the photograph on the French restaurant’s menu cover (and on the match-books) with the caption that reads “Marcel’s father at work on his future burial site.”
The naming of dishes through elaborate figures of speech is a new and very popular menu art form. Current local favorites include the “Moo-oink and peep” (barbecued beef, ribs, and chicken, of course), the similarly derived “Cluck & Chuck,” the “Cocky Teriyaki,” “The Piggy Bake . . . You’ll Go Hog Wild,” “Only the Breast for You,” and the very subtle “I ’Artichoke’ You.”
The use of foreign vocabulary is still in rudimentary stages. We often see such unpolished usage as “complemented by Bueno sauce” or “Sirloin Strip Steak Maitre D. Hotel” or this series of descriptions: “Thin, French crepes – OOH LaLa!; Continental tortes – magnifique!; Cheese cake – Too much!”
However, pure phonetics offer an often beautiful touch to some menu artistry, especially Oriental. At Trader Vic’s one might find this scenario:
“May I take your order, sir?”
“Yes, I’ll start with the Cho-Cho and then I’d like a bowl of the Bongo Bongo. And I think I’ll go with the Mahi-Mahi, medium well.”
“Anything to drink, sir?”
“Yes, uh, just a glass of Milk-Milk, please.”
“And for dessert, sir?”
“Yes, I’ll try the ’Flaming Peach Sauce over Coconut Ice Cream and surrounded with Pineapple and Banana chunks’.”
Continental
Arthur’s. Superb food and a classy but warm ambience make this restaurant always an enjoyable experience. The prime beef, Arthur’s trademark, is still the best around. But there are other impressive options, such as the double lamb chops, calf’s liver, or the veal chops in brown sauce. Tasty salads and an excellent house dressing. The wine list features American vintages only and you’ll find some interesting surprises (try the Krug Zinfandel to see how far American wines have come). The bar is the kind of place you can spend all evening – one of Dallas’ best. Entertainment nightly. (1000 Campbell Centre/’361-8833 /Sun-Fri 11:30-2,6-11; Sat 6-midnight/Reservations / All credit cards/$$$)
Bagatelle/Plaza Cafe. A nice new addition to the Bagatelle is the Plaza Cafe, offering casual but classy European cafe style dining either indoors or outdoors on the terrace. A wide ranging menu of soups, sandwiches, and light entrees, but particularly impressive are the cold buffet, the imaginative cocktail list, and the full page of exotic variations of espressos. The Bagatelle dining room, comfortable as can be with its “French country style” charm, still has some consistency problems with both service and food, though the beef toumedos is generally excellent and the roquefort pillow steak is an unusual and dependable selection. Paul Guerrero and group continue to put out good jazz in the bistro. (One Energy Square, Greenville Ave at University / 692-8224/ Lunch, daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner Sun-Thur 6-10, Fri & Sat till 11; Plaza Cafe till midnight weekdays, till 1 a.m. Fri & Sat; Bar till 1:30 a.m. nightly/ Reservations /MC, BA, AE/
Bellmaster. One of the more enjoyable experiences in Dallas dining is lunch at the Bellmaster. A mood of comfortable elegance, food of consistently high quality. The same excellence of cuisine holds at night, though the prices are higher and the atmosphere, including live entertainment, becomes a bit slicker. Expertise is especially apparent in the sublime sauces which grace most of the entrees, such as the veal scallops in a rich cream sauce with whiskey. Other fine selections include the whole baby flounder, the Boudreaux shrimp appetizer (in another superb sauce), and a delicious gumbo-truly Creole. For the big appetites, the gargantuan portions of frog legs or double lamb chops make a filling feast. Bar “by membership.” (Carillon Plaza, 13601 Preston Rd/661-9353/Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.midnight; Sat 6:30 p.m.-midnight; bar till 2 a.m. Fri & Sat; Sun brunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m./ Reservations /MC, BA/$$$)
Blooms. The setting is a little old frame house, redecorated with plants and graphics and refurbished hardwood floors. The menu features three or four light continental entrees that change daily. The food is sometimes excellent, sometimes disappointing. Entree portions are a bit small but this quality of cuisine is rarely seen at such reasonable prices. The trimmings, notably the fresh vegetables, usually show more care than most restaurants are willing to give them. Especially delicious are the soups – vichyssoise with real cream or the smooth fresh mushroom. A major drawback: the restaurant has no waiting lounge and an ever-increasing clientele. It can make for rushed service and a noisy atmosphere during crowded hours. The bar serves call brands only, and the wine selection is very good. Now if they just took reservations …. (2917 Fairmount off Cedar Springs /745-9571/Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2, Sun brunch 12-2; Dinner: Sun, Tue-Thur 6-10:30; Fri & Sat till 12INo reservations IMC, BA/$$)
Chateaubriand. For some reason, this restaurant has an image problem. Maybe it’s the European decadent-posh atmosphere that leads some diners to continue to characterize this restaurant as “overrated.” If you’ve heard that kind of talk, don’t believe it. Almost everything on this widely-varied international menu is likely to be rewarding – not sensational, but certainly satisfying. Servings are more than ample, and at moderate prices. The Greek selections are a pleasant surprise. A fine menu of medium-priced luncheon specials. Live entertainment nightly. (2515 McKinneyI 741-1223/ Mon-Satl 1:30a.m.midnight / Reservations /All credit cards /$$)
Enclave. A relatively new restaurant; thus the usual problem of inconsistencies. But careful selection from the very enticing menu can reward you with a varied and interesting meal from the realm of continental haute cuisine. Most of the hors d’oeuvres are quite good – try the mushrooms stuffed with crabmeat in a luscious cream sauce (or, for a splurge, treat yourself to the elegant beluga caviar). Onion is by far the best of the soups and all of the salads are deliciously dressed. The filet of lemon sole is nicely done, but the meat entrees are dominant items here. The veal cotellette en papillote is a seldom seen bone-in veal chop in brown sauce – an excellent dish. The filet mignon is garnished with an artichoke bottom filled with an outstanding béarnaise sauce. Vegetables and desserts are weak spots. Wine selections in the moderate price range are lacking, but the rest of the selection is very good. Decor is “traditional fancy” – flocked walls, smoked mirrors, chandeliers. Service is very dependable. (8325 Walnut Hill/363-7487/Lunch, Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; dinner, Mon-Sat 6-11, bar till 12/ Reservations /MC, BA.AE, DC/$$$)
Ewald’s. Interesting continental specialties, consistently well-prepared. Though noted for his fine veal dishes, Ewald also serves a pepper steak that may well be the best vou’ll find in Dallas. A quiet and gracious atmosphere; very plain except for one unusual feature – an observation window through which you can watch the work in the immaculate kitchen. (5415 W Lovers Ln/357-1622/Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11/MC, BA/Reservations/$$$)
The Grape. One of Dallas’ most popular restaurants, a European-style cafe with a menu as crowded with various cheeses as the tiny one-room establishment is each evening with patrons. The cheese-wine format is supplemented with an array of fine homemade soups (mushroom is the specialty), and a selection of light entrees at lunch and heartier offerings at dinner. This place is almost without exception very busy, creating a nice, boisterous bistro atmosphere but often slow, and even lackadaisical, service. A most interesting selection of wines. (2808 Greenville Ave18230133I Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30. Dinner: Tue-Sun, 6-10:30, open later on Fri & Sat for wine and cheese only /No reservations / No credit cards/ $$)
Marcel’s. A real French feeling has made this a long-popular spot with Dallas diners. While some of the gourmet touches have diminished in recent months, there are a few features which make Marcel’s always worth a visit. Foremost is the beef Wellington – Marcel’s specialty and so beautifully prepared that it overshadows everything else on the menu. One of the best buys in the city is the complete table d’hote dinner for only $5.85, which includes all the hors d’oeuvres you can eat. And if you can’t find the dish you’re looking for on the menu, ask for it anyway; a menu note claims “we will prepare any classical French cuisine upon request”-and they will. Relaxed and quiet dining. (5721 W Lovers Ln/358-2103/Sun-Thur 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight. Closed Mon / Reservations /MC, BA, AE, DC/$$)
Mr. Peppe. As relaxed and comfortable a place as you’re ever likely to experience such fine French cuisine. Unfortunately the touch of informality leads to occasional shortcomings in service. But the food is almost always on a par with the best in town. The pepper steak is locally renowned, the rack of lamb is divine, but so is most everything else – including a Black Forest soup and a creamed spinach preparation that leave fond memories (though it should be mentioned that a few reports of substandard offerings from the kitchen have occurred lately – hopefully not a trend). The breads and pastries, chef Albert’s specialties, are almost too good to be true – the crowning touch to a superlative meal at a price that is right. (5617 W Lovers Ln / 352-5976 / Mon-Sat 6-10 / Reservations / MC,BA,AE/$$$)
Old Warsaw. One of the most illustrious names in Dallas dining, Old Warsaw does not always live up to its glowing reputation. While it is a truly elegant restaurant and very European in its appeal (complete with handwritten menu), the food preparation has shown some inconsistency. A dazzling array of entrees, all French specialties, still ranks this with the best restaurants in the city, with two consistant standouts being the rack of lamb Provencale and the duck Bigarade. It’s with the trimmings that your meal may fall short of expectations. But for a lavish evening the Old World luxuriance still prevails. One of city’s finest wine lists. (2610 Maple/528-0032/Daily 6-11, Sat till midnight/ Reservations /MC, BA, AE/$$$)
Oz. Unless some unforseeable disaster occurs, this lavish monument to haute cuisine should become one of the finest restaurants in the region, or the country for that matter. A thorough continental menu as staggering as the futuristic, interior. The food and the atmosphere feel somewhat incongruous, but once you sink your teeth into the striped bass, the pheasant with grapes, the bouillabaisse, or any of the other exquisite entrees, you’ll forget the neon and mirrors. A fine selection of appetizers, including an unforgettable paté in puff pastry. The chef and staff read like a Who’s Who of fine dining. A wine list for both neophytes and connoisseurs. Go prepared to spend a lot of money. A private club, memberships are $25 per year or $5 for a temporary (3 day) membership. (5429 LBJ Freeway /233-5755 /Tue-Sun 6-11 p.m., temporarily / Reservations only/MC, BA, AE/$.t$)
Patry’s. A name that often arises whenever there’s a “best-resturant-in-town” discussion. In terms of cuisine, the French specialities here certainly rank it as a worthy cortender. The real jewels of the menu are the exquisite hors d’oeuvres, highlighted by the stuffed leeks in cream sauce and the paté Rilletes. The fact that this is a family-run operation adds a nice personal touch to the service and is one of the reasons Patry’s has established such a loyal clientele. The only real shortcoming here is the loud and bright dining room – a little toning down would greatly enhance the mood in this otherwise excellent restaurant. (2504 McKinney / 748-3754/ Tue-Fri 6-11, Sat till 11:30/ Reservations/MC, BA, AE, DC/ $$$)
Pyramid Room. All in all, this is currently the finest restaurant in Dallas. And the most expensive. Truly gourmet. Recommendations are superfluous, but the Grand Marnier soufflé is masterful. Usually a paragon of service in an atmosphere of affluence. The luncheon buffet has been replaced by a limited menu of lighter, smaller-portioned entrees in the $6-$8 range – all excellent. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard/ 748-5454/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, Dinner: Daily 6-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)
American
Celebration. Good ol’ homestyle cooking. Choose from the five entrees (very ordinary, nothing fancy; the pot roast is the best). With it they’ll serve you bowlfuls of vegetables and salad- help yourself, family style, and oat to your heart’s content for $4.50 or less. Great little homemade biscuits and wonderful fruit cobblers (dessert costs extra). A young staff and a loyal clientele-you may find yourself waiting on the front porch on weekends. Very casual. No bar – bring your own wine. (4503 W. Lovers Lane /351-5681/ Mon-Sat 5:30-11, Sun till 10:30 /No reservations /MC, BA/$)
Kirby’s. Dallas’ original steakhouse and still one of the most dependable restaurants in town. No frills, no overbearing motif – a refreshing absence of steakhouse gimmickry, Excellent steaks – the filet and rib eye are particularly good values. Mr. Kirby is still in charge and his staff is efficient, as always. (3715 Greenville/ 823-7296/ Tue-Sun 5:30-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight / Reservations / All credit ,cards/ $$)
Sonny Bryan’s. The best barbecue in town? It may well be, but it’s a close ract. The other two contenders are Smitty’s on McKinney and Salih’s in Preston Center. All have similar menus and luscious barbecue in generous portions. Sonny Bryan’s has the most authentic “smokehouse” atmosphere and great onion rings. Smitty’s has the most comfortable dining room, but it’s open only for lunch. Salih’s has the best prices, but no beer. So the deciding factor may be which one is closest to you. (Sonny Bryan’s, 2202 Inwood / 357-71201Mon-Sat 6 a.m.-8 p.m., Sun 11-2/ Smitty’s, 2720 McKinney / 823-0369/ Mon-Fri 7a.m.-3:30 p.m., closed weekends/ Salih’s, 8309 Westchester/ 361-1684! Mon-Sat 11-7:45/ No credit cards/$)
Southern Kitchen. Feast in the style and tradition of the Old South. And a feast; it is – the “Deluxe” dinner is an assortment of fried chicken, smoked chicken, fried shrimp, fried trout, and deviled crab, plus shrimp cocktail, crab-meat appetizers, and many other trimmings, all for $7.95. Additional servings of everything at no extra cost. None of the preparations (except for the luscious homemade cinnamon rolls) could be called extraordinary, but the magnitude of the meal is impressive enough. The two locations, East and West, have identical menus, but the West has a more handsomely appointed plantation-style atmosphere, including waiters and waitresses in period costume (West, 2356 W. Northwest Huy, 352-5220 / East, 6615 E. Northwest Hwy, 368-1658/ MonSat 5:30-10:30 p.m., Sun 5-10 p.m./ Reservations for 5 or more/ All credit cards/ $$)
Italian
Campisi’s Egyptian Restaurant. Don’t expect to find rare Egyptian delicacies (whatever those might be) – the only thing Egyptian about the place is the curious name. What you will find is some of the best pizza in Dallas and crowds of people who know it. Always a packed house on weekends and very popular for late night, after-the-movies snacks-try the basket of crab claws. The rest of the Italian menu is average fare. (5610 E. Mockingbird/ 827-0355/ Mon-Fri. 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat till 1 a.m., Sun noon-midnight/ No credit cards. Checks accepted/ Reservations for 6 or more / $)
Ianni’s. Two menus and the first one – all appetizers – steals the show. An incredible array of Italian tidbits from baked oysters Mosca to roasted peppers – and they’re all good. Since you can’t eat them all, try for starters the broiled homemade Italian sausage (there’s no better in town) or the Spiedini (a miniature veal roll stuffed with crabmeat, cheeses, and herbs). But save room for the big menu. The pasta dishes are average, but the specialty dishes are impressive, the best being the veal scallopini Ianni with prosciutto and mushrooms in an Italian brown sauce and the chicken cacciatore with fresh mushrooms. Top it all off with their standout dessert specialty, the Profiterole de Gelati Cioccolato, an eclair filled with Italian ice cream and topped with fudge sauce. The atmosphere, unfortunately, is noisy. (2330 Greenville / 826-6161 / Daily 5:30-11:30 / Reservations/MC, AE / $$)
II Sorrento. Classical Italian cuisine of very high quality, from the most ambitious Italian menu in town. You can hardly miss, but especially good are the dishes with homemade flat pasta, including the fettucine and the tagliatelle, both prepared at your table. The service is frequently as lavish as the Italian street scene decor, complete with strolling musicians. (8616 Turtle Creek / 352-8759 / Daily 5:30-11, Sat till midnight / Reservations / All credit cards / $$$)
Italian Pavilion. A “penthouse” restaurant atop the Le Baron Hotel. A subdued, almost informal, elegance creates a most pleasant setting. The Northern Italian cuisine is equally impressive, distinguished by homemade pasta cut and cooked to order. The veal dishes are among the best in town, most notably the unusual scallopini Gaetano with provolone and prosciutto or the Speciale di Polio e Vitello, a veal and chicken dish cooked in egg batter and served with lemon cream sauce. The saltimbocca is also a worthy selection. Still a relatively new restaurant, the sevice is uneven at best – expect a long stay. Extensive Italian wine list. (Le Baron Hotel, 1055 Regal Row at Carpenter Frwy / 634-8550 / Mon-Sat 6-11 p.m. / Reservations / All credit cards/ $$$)
Mario’s. Elegant and refined, to be sure, and, on a good night, capable of Italian specialties as interesting and rewarding as any of the best dishes in the city. But consistency in both food and service has faltered lately. Recommended: saltimbocca alla Romana, manicotti, fried zucchini. The veal with artichoke hearts and mushrooms is famous and deservedly so. And no matter what precedes it, the spumoni for dessert is always a delight. (135 Turtle Creek Village / 521-1135 / Daily 6-10:45, Sat till 11:45 / Reservations / All credit cards/ $$$)
Pietro’s. From the family-operated kitchen, Pietro and his Sicilian relatives turn out some great southern Italian home-style cooking. The specialty pasta dishes are the highlights here: the manicotti and cannelloni take top honors but the fettucine alla Romana and the lasagne with meat sauce are also excellent. If you must have spaghetti, the marinara is as good as any in town. So is the pizza. And the garlic bread, freshly baked on the premises, is superb. All very reasonably priced, right down to the giant frosted schooners of beer for 75￠. Or if you’d rather stay in the spirit of things, try the Segesta, a Sicilian wine. Often crowded so we suggest you visit on a weekday. (5722 Richmond, off Greenville/ 824-9403/ Tue-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11:30/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $$)
Trattoria de Meo. A nice change of pace: simple, uncomplicated Italian specialities such as cannelloni and manicotti made with crepes rather than pasta. The end result is relief from the usual post-Italian bloated feeling. Chefs specialties include an excellent broiled chicken with lemon butter sauce and a new addition, veal scallopine. Essentially a husband and wife operation with family friendliness and occasional ups and downs if things get too busy. A casual place (handwritten menu) with a loyal clientele. No bar, limited wine list. (5601 W Lovers Ln/ 350-0238/ Mon-Sat 6-10/ Reservations/ MC, BA/ $$)
Mexican
Chiquita. An alternative to the Mexican “cafe circuit,” Chiquita might be described as “Mexican haute.” It has maintained a loyal clientele with a menu of unusual dishes. Order from the right side of the menu and learn a delicious lesson about real Mexican food – such as the pescado bianco marinero (rolled whitefish with a spinach stuffing and a shrimp and oyster sauce) or carnitas tampiquenas ’broiled pork strips). The Tex-Mex preparations here are no better than average. Simple, comfortable, low-key atmosphere. (3325 Oak Laun/521-0721/ Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m./No reservations/ MC, BA, AE $$)
Herrera Cafe. A recent “remodeling” (new paint job, new floor, new menu) hasn’t changed the atmosphere: the decor is still classic adobe hole-in-the-wall; the menu changes simply offer more of the best home-cooked Tex-Mex in town. Significant additions are a scrumptious chicken enchilada with Spanish sauce, very unusual green enchiladas, and chile rellenos (supposedly available on Thursdays only, but occasionally by special request). And the fresh hot flour tortillas are still a rare treat. Bring your own beer. (3902 Maple / 526-9427/ Weekdays 9-8, weekends till 10; dosed Tue / No reservations/ No credit cards / $)
El Taxco. There may not be a better dining value in Dallas – dependable Tex-Mex food at amazingly low prices. Their style is subtle and not so highly seasoned as most, making it an especially good spot for wary and hesitant newcomers to Mexican cuisine. The chicken enchiladas are particularly noteworthy – an unusual and tasty chicken filling with peas and tomatoes. Refried beans in authentic Mexican style – a rarity. Friendly, casual, and comfortable. Beer only. (2126 N. St. Paul/ 742-0747/ Wed-Sun 10:30-9, Mon 10:30-8, closed Tue / No reservations/ MCI $)
Raphael’s. A recent arrival on the scene, Raphael’s has everything going for it: excellent Mexican cuisine, a lovely setting, and a friendly and diligent staff. The location is the original home of Arthur’s on McKin-ney, a cozy place of old steakhouse-style wood beam interior with a touch of Mexico in the flowers and paintings. The standard Mexican fare (enchiladas, etc.) is far above average, including sensational chicken/sour cream enchiladas, crispy, light, puff-style tacos and guacamole that is unmatched anywhere in town. But the specialties are the thing here – delicious chile rellenos and a wonderful shrimp enchilada preparation. Also chicken mole, flautas, alambres (Mexican kabob), and more. Prices are on the high side (though not unreasonable), but the luncheon specials are much less expensive. Full bar, Mexican beers. Alma-den wines only. (3701 McKinney / 521-9640/ MonSat 11:30 a.m.-ll p.m./ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE / $$)
Oriental
Peking Palace. The Mandarin and Szechuan specialties rank with the best in town, and they have perhaps the most extensive variety of any Chinese menu in the city. Try the fried dumplings for openers. The spiced shredded beef and the Nanking and Seshun pork dishes are all excellent. The chefs special shrimp, not listed on the menu but available on request, is delicious, but very spicy. More expensive than most Oriental cuisine and definitely better at dinner than lunch. (4119 Lomo Alto/ 522-1830/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thurs 5-11, Sat & Sun till midnight, Sun 12-10/ Reservations on weekends/ MC, BA, AE / $$)
Royal Tokyo. It is fortunate that with so few restaurants in Dallas serving Japanese cuisine, Royal Tokyo does it so well. Don’t be misled by the exterior motif facade that characterizes the rash of new restaurants in this area, often offering more on the outside than on the inside. There is authenticity on the inside here in the form of excellent Japanese specialties. Recommended: Ton Katsu (batter fried pork strips), Kobe beef, shrimp tempura, shabu-shabu, and prime rib teriyaki. Delightful green tea, saki (served warm), plus Japanese beer and whiskey. A quiet, subdued atmosphere. Service varies – at times slow, but always gracious. (7525 Greenville Ave/ 368-3304/ Daily, 11-2, 5:30-11:30/ MC, BA, AE/ $$)
South China. On a good night, this modest restaurant serves some of the best Mandarin cuisine from one of the more exotic menus in town. Fine “package” dinners for two, four or six persons. For the more adventurous, a wide selection of a la carte dishes: the best Moo Shi pork in town, any of the items with black bean sauce, and all of the chicken dishes. For lighter eating, the soups and appetizers are also superb, especially the bean curd and pork soup, the sizzling rice soup, shrimp toast and very unusual steamed dumplings. The seafood entrees don’t measure up to the others on the menu. Cordial service. (5424 E Mockingbird/ 826-5420 / Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Daily 5-11, Fri & Sat till 12, Sun till 11 / Reservations/MC, BA, AE/ $$)
Specialties
Brasserie. A coffee shop extraordinaire, the best spot in Dallas for late night indulgence. They’re open 24 hours a day with four different menus each taking a shift. The 11 p.m.-7 a.m. menu is the eye-catcher, with such unusual predawn delicacies as smoked salmon and eggs, along with a full selection of sandwiches, salads, and hamburgers. For a sweet snack, the famous Fairmont pastries and desserts are unbeatable. The dinner menu spotlights a particular foreign cuisine and changes periodically; breakfast is served at all hours. Fairmount Hotel, Ross & Akardl 748-5454/ 24 hours, 7 days a week/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ $$)
Health Nut. Be good to your system and to your taste buds at Dallas’ most appealing health food restaurant. Most all preparations are full of flavor and should correct any misconceptions you might have of “health foods” as bland. The fresh fruit salads are always a treat, as are the smoothies. Their wheatberry bread is wonderful – try it as a homemade cream cheese or avocado sandwich. Servings are less than bountiful, so don’t visit if ravenous. Casual and comfortable and, naturally, no smoking. A second location at 4356 Lovers Lane is anticipated to open in October. (4220 Oak Lawn/526-4050/Daily 11-9/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)
India House. Indian and southern Asian specialties, all touched with great authenticity – as one might expect from the two chefs direct from India. At last Dallas has a place to enjoy fine curry dishes and, even more rewarding, some unusual specialties. The standout is the chicken Tandoori, a marinated delight and one of the most attractive dishes you’re ever likely to see – said to be the royal dish of India. For a first visit, the Shahi house dinner offers a bountiful and varied sampling of Indian cuisine ($17 95 for two). If you order a la carte (the prices are amazingly low) be sure to try some of the hors d’oeuvres (all excellent) and the wonderful condiments – especially the achar, either mango or lime. As might be expected in this shopping center location, the decor is contrived motif, but not at all offensive. The staff is most helpful in guiding you through the extensive menu. The lunch specials – at $1.85 – are a bargain. (5422 E. Mockingbird / 823-1000 / Lunch: daily 11:30-2:00, Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11/Res-ervations/ MC, BA, AE/ $$)
Jamil’s Steak House. Lebanese hors d’oeuvres with all dinners are the added attraction here, good and filling. Included, among other tidbits, are a Tabouli salad, cabbage rolls, and a basket of barbecue ribs and bologna. Steaks are good big cuts at bargain prices (such as an almost unheard of 24 oz. T-bone, $7.95) (2901 W. Northwest Hwy/ 352-9071/ Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2, Dinner: daily 5-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)
Khalil’s Beirut. The Lebanese cuisine is generally good at what is certainly one of very few places in Dallas to serve creditable Middle Eastern food. Recommended are the lamb kabob and the kibbee tartar (though the waiter may try to scare you away from it – it’s raw lamb). Unfortunately the place has shown inconsistencies, especially in service, and the evening offerings are far better than those at lunch. But when everything is right, it’s a nice place for a change of pace. (31 Highland Park Village/ 526-5600/ Mon-Sat 11-10/ Reservations for 6 or more/ MC/ $$)
Maison Orleans. The fare is French and Creole, the flair is New Orleans. The French specialties should be avoided; opt for the Cajun touch, particularly the shrimp “Maison” (barbecue style) and the crawfish. Also gumbo and red beans & rice. Sunday special: all the shrimp and crawfish you can eat for $4.75. A bright and cheerful dining room with overhead fans and white latticework. For summer snacks and cocktails, there’s an outdoor garden patio. (7236 Greenville Ave/ 363-2992/ Mon-Fri 11:30-11, Fri till 2, Sat 5:30-2, Sun 4-10:30/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AEI $$)
Oporto Oyster Bar. Dallas’ best seafood restaurant (but still a long way from Boston). The things they do well they do very well; others can be a letdown-so be selective. Sure to please are the Boston schrod, broiled red snapper, whole baby flounder, and broiled Maine lobster. For bivalve lovers, the oysters on the half shell are succulent and delicious. Service varies widely; the atmosphere is casual and comfortable. The bartending is among the best in town, boasting some very impressive after-dinner drinks. (2929 N Henderson/826 2553/ Daily, 11am-11pm/No reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$)
Ports of Spain. The first serious attempt to bring real Spanish cuisine to Dallas is a nearly successful one. Paella, of course, heads the menu, and it’s the real thing – loaded with lobster, shrimp, clam, chorizo, chicken, ham, and other goodies. Other specialties include two chicken dishes and a couple of selections displaying an enticing assortment of seafoods; all are prepared in authentic Spanish style, but are notably lacking in Iberian flair and exoticism. And they’re expensive. Service has been a bit confused thus far, but the effort to please is apparent. Lunch is a strange holdover from the delicatessen which previously inhabited this location (same owner) and offers both Kosher and Spanish foods (try a delicious “tortilla” – the traditional Spanish omelette). The dining room is elegant, the bar (“membership”) has live entertainment. (Carillon Plaza, 13601 Preston Rd/661-5956/ Daily 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 6 p.m.-midnight/Reservations/ MC, BA, DC/ $$$)
Trader Vic’s. There are many Trader Vic’s around the country – some are good, some are not-so-good. This one has been dependably good for a long time. A voluminous menu of Polynesian and other generally Oriental delights. Excellent hors d’oeuvres (the “Cosmo Tidbit” platter will give you a good sampling or try the fried chicken livers) and the limestone lettuce salad is a must. The best entree choices are the pressed almond duck, the lobster Cantonese, or the Indonesian lamb roast. Exotic dessert drinks are their specialty. (Hilton Inn, 5600 N Cen Expwy / 827-3620 / Daily, 5-12 / Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)
Mainly For Lunch
Brennan’s. A famous name with a less-than-glowing local reputation. But it is still one of the better downtown lunchtime options and occasionally will pull itself together sufficiently in the morning to rekindle fond memories of “Breakfast at Brennan’s” in New Orleans, complete with Eggs Sardou, Crepes Suzette, et al. (though the two restaurants are no longer officially affiliated). Dinner is even more of a hit-and-miss proposition. Service is disturbingly erratic – sometimes perfect, sometimes offensive. Whatever the inconsistencies, the dining room remains comfortable and elegant. (One Main Place/ 742-1911/ Breakfast & lunch: 7-2:30 weekdays, 8-2:30 weekends; Dinner: 6-10 weekdays, till 11 weekends/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)
Calluaud Traiteur. Everything at this small (and consequently jammed) cafe is superb, and no wonder: the chef, Guy Calluaud, is a former Pyramid Room chef. If you can wait out the lines at lunch, treat yourself to one of their individual quiches, a salad (the cucumber salad is particularly fine), and one of the luscious little fruit tarts. Or have the luncheon special-large portions at low prices. Or the paté, or the rata-touille, or… well, anything. They also do takeout orders and catering for parties. The house wines are rather ordinary. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/ 748-7459/ Mon-Sat 8 a.m.-5 p.m./ No reservations/ No credit cards/
The Chimney. The “new” Chimney-now a full-fledged continental restaurant – has maintained its reputation for excellence as a luncheon spot with fine light entrees and outstanding desserts. Less successful is the newer dinner menu, which offers traditional continental specialties. The “Seafood Imperial” is a wonderful appetizer of shrimp and crabmeat. Two intimate dining rooms in classic early American decor – hardwood floors, brass and pewter chandeliers. (Willowcreek, 9729 N Cen Expwy at Walnut Hill / 369-6466/ Tues-Sat 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 6 12 p.m./ Reservations/MC, BA, AE, personal checks / $$$)
Ciro’s. Elaborate sandwiches are the featured attraction here (example: the El Nopal-ham, cheese, picquante mayonnaise, onion and tomato on a “Mexican bun,” $2.95). The setting is an airy, spacious, old corner store at McKinney and Hall; the atmosphere is old timey without being heavy nostalgia. There are five major sandwich choices, but also available are such items as a fresh fruit plate with finger sandwiches and an avocado sandwich. Wine and beer (including several imports) are served, but the drinking highlight is the hard apple cider- the real stuff with a stiff kick. (3237 McKinney at Hall / 745-9464 / Tue 11 a.m. – 7 p.m., Wed-Sat 11 a.m. – 10 p.m., Sun 1-7 p.m., closed Mon/ No reservations/ MC/ $)
La Creperie. A delightful courtyard patio, made very French by the traditional Cinzano table umbrellas and heavily-accented waiters, contributes to the lunchtime popularity here. The popularity contributes to the slow service-but on a nice day you won’t mind. You can while away some of the wait by reading through the lengthy list of some 50 varieties of crepes stuffed with most everything imaginable. Omelettes and dessert crepes are also served. (Quadrangle; 2800 Routh/ 651- 0506/ Mon-Wed 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m./ Reservations recommended/ MC, BA, DC/ $$)
Gallery Buffet. An extra added attraction for visitors to the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts. For a mere $2.50, relax with a delicious light lunch from the expertly catered buffet table. Hearty soups, salads, homemade bread loaves, and desserts. Wine extra. (DMFA, Fair Park/ 421-4187 / Tue-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-l:30 p.m./ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)
Kuby’s Sausage House. The sausages are a house product of this deli-restaurant and they’re excellent – served with either hot potato salad or sauerkraut, and the choice between the two is a maddening one. Sandwiches – try their pastrami – are thick and delicious, and the soup of the day is a meal in itself. Such heftig German food needs beer, but alas, Kuby’s is in a dry area. Excellent pastries make this a nice place for a coffee break, but make it a mid-morning one: the noon crowds decimate the desserts. Open at 8:30 a.m. for breakfast pastries and coffee; lunch service begins at 11. (6601 Snider Plaza/ 363-2231/ Mon-Sat 8:30-2:30, sandwiches till 5:30/ MC/ $)
The Lunch Basket Tearoom. A bright and very cozy little spot on the second floor of The Craft Compound in Snider Plaza, featuring homemade-style lunch-in-a-basket. A set menu – no options – changes daily, offering soup, a salad, sandwich, dessert, and drink for $2. The specialties are the unusual salads (such as tuna with orange) and the desserts (especially the light flaky cream puffs). The soups are also out-of-the-ordinary, notably the fresh spinach. Foreign blend coffees and teas; no bar. Homemade breads are also available to take home. A delightful midday stop while browsing the shops and galleries of the Compound. (6617 Snider Plaza, Suite 200 / 369-3241/ Tues-Sat 11-3/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)
Magic Pan. It’s a difficult choice when faced with the impressive selection of crepes – some ordinary, some unusual, and all delicious. Be sure to save room for the outstanding dessert crepes. A very popular place: if you want to avoid the shopping crowds, visit for a Sunday brunch. Also nice for late night, after-theater snacking. Note: there is a $1.50 per person minimum, so don’t stop in for a cup of coffee. (NorthPark – New Mall/ 692-7574/ Sun-Thurs 11-midnight, Fri & Sat till 1/No reservations/ MC, BA, AEl $$)
Upper Crust. A bustling lunch spot in the Olla Podrida. The blackboard menu (changing daily) boasts old-fashioned homestyle specialties like chicken & dumplings and red beans & rice. They do wonderful things with buttermilk, both in their special salad dressing and in the buttermilk pie. Also sandwiches and homemade soups. A courtyard/patio feeling. Dinner served Thure-day evenings only. No bar. (Olla Podrida, 12215 Coit Rd/ 661-5738/ Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3, Dinner: Thur only, 5:30-8:30/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)
Zodiac Room. Luncheon delicacies as wonderful to look at as they are to eat. The stunning buffet table is highlighted by the salads (try the fresh fruit with their famous poppy seed dressing) and the desserts (try any of them – you can’t miss). Always crowded, so plan for a lengthy lunch. A dinner buffet is served every Thursday. Luscious Danish pastries are served in the morning between 9:30 & 10:30. Wine and beer. (Neiman-Marcus, downtown/ 741-6911/ Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Thur dinner, 5-7 p.m./ Reservations/ Neiman-Marcus charge card only, checks accepted/ $$)
Bar/Restaurants
The Black-Eyed Pea. One in the proliferating genre of high-ceilinged, wood-beamed, hanging-basketed bar/restaurants, but it all comes off quite pleasantly as a nice lunch spot and a very comfortable drinking bar. The specialties of the house are chicken fried steak and-you guessed it-black-eyed peas (good enough to name a restaurant after). A daily plate lunch such as chicken fried steak with a choice of two vegetables for $2.65. If chicken fried doesn’t grab you, they also serve big thick burgers. Ice cream sodas and sundaes are highly touted items here, and the bar specialty is a prune daiquiri-sample at your own risk. (3857 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn/ 526-9478/ Mon-Sat 11 a.m. – 2 a.m., Sun 5 p.m. – 2 a.m./ No reservations / MC, AE/ $)
Carlos and Pepe. A real eyefull as a result of its pre-assembling in the Bavaria film studios of Munich (replete with furnishings and miscellaneous props used in such films as Cabaret) as well as its evocation of the noted Acapulco disco restaurant, Carlos and Charlie. As a discotheque, Carlos and Pepe has a lively flair, culminating in a midnight “fiesta” when the staff takes to dancing in the aisles. The menu (“continental” if it can be categorized) is as diverse as the decor, highlighted by the little things, such as zucchini fritters, bean soup, creamed tortillas, and apple fritters fondue. (3049 W. Northwest Hwyl 358-4357/ opens 4:30p.m., Dinner served 6:30midnight, disco tUl 2 a.m./ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE, DC / $$$)
Chili’s. “Bar and Grill” says the sign outside, but any images of a greasy spoon are erased immediately upon entering. A handsome and comfortable place, done in wood-beam-and-tropical-plants motif, specializing in bar munchies-burgers, tacos, and (of course) chili. The chili is good and hot, the burgers are big (half-pound) but nothing sensational. Their best treat is the special soft taco, a flour tortilla folded around chili, cheese, onion and lettuce. Bar features frozen margaritas and homemade sangria. (Greenville Ave at Meadow Rd/ 361-4371/ Daily, 11 a.m.-2 a.m./ No reservations/ MC.BA.AE/ $)
Daddy’s Money. Now in two locations. The original, in Old Town, is a busy place with a lively bar-where you’ll probably spend some waiting time. The new location, North Dallas, is more relaxed, with pleasant garden alcove settings. Menus are similar-something for everybody, steak/chicken/seafood/etc. Best bet is the charcoaled rack of lamb. Both offer a great Sunday brunch featuring fresh fruit daiquiris and some interesting omelettes. Service is usually overly effervescent. Old Town, 5500 Greenville, 363-3686/ North Dallas, 4855 LBJ at Inwood, 387-3800/ Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-12:30, Sun 10-11. Drinks till 2 a.m. daily/ No reservations/ MC, BA, AE, DC / $$)
The Filling Station. Maybe the ultimate in motif dining: this old Greenville Avenue gas station has been transformed into a bar/ restaurant complete with antique gas pumps out front, vintage automobile and roadside paraphernalia on the walls and under glass on the tables, old gas pumps on the bar that dispense tap beer, and, hovering over the dining room, a revolving red neon Mobil flying horse. Motif carries over to the menu which offers the “Ethyl Hamburger” (3/4 lb., $2.25), the “Regular Hamburger” (1/2 lb., $1.50) and the “Low Lead” (3/4 lb. patty and cottage cheese, $2.25). Also nachos – including unusual beef nachos made with ground beef chile – and very good onion rings. Live music (small groups) most evenings beginning at 10. (6862 Greenville Ave near Park Lane/ 691-4488 / Daily 11 a.m. – 2 p.m./ No reservations/ MC, BA, AE/ $)
Goldfinger. While Dallas still waits for a truly fine Greek restaurant, Goldfinger fills the void with more success than others. Much of the success is due to the festive nightclub atmosphere featuring live musical entertainment – usually of very high quality – and belly dancing. The very standard menu ranges from a mediocre stifado to a fairly tasty moussaka (though it suffers from the common local affliction of beef in place of lamb). The house specialty – a combination of souvlaki and large shrimp – is your best bet, and the dolmas are the best around. Very crowded on weekends. (2905 Cri-delle/ 350-6983/ Daily 11:30-2, 6-11; Fri & Sat till midnight/ Reservations on weekends/ MC, BA,AE/$$)
Greek Key. Greek belly dancers entertain in an atmosphere that can get downright festive at patron participation time. Join in with the staff in traditional Greek folk dancing to live music. The varied menu includes Greek specialties, steak, and lobster and is best sampled during the Sunday Family Feast (noon-3 p.m.) – all you can eat for $3.95, $2.95 for children. (2920 Northwest Hwy/ 358-5177/ Mon-Sat 11 a.m. – 2 a.m., Sun 4 p.m. – 2 a.m./ All credit cards / Reservations / $$)
Ichabod’s. A slick new steak & seafood bar on the Greenville Ave. singles strip. Spawned by a successful Louisiana operation, Ichabod’s has few unique or original touches, but what they do, they do with polish and proficiency. Within the fairly predictable menu (salads, soups, steaks, prime rib, shellfish) are a couple of imaginative selections: the steak Oscar is a double filet topped with crabmeat, hollandaise, and mushrooms; and a ratatouille casserole is offered as a side dish – a good idea. Casual and comfortable; tastefully decorated with etched glass and plants. A very popular drinking and mingling bar. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/ 691-2646/ Daily 11:30 a.m.-mid-night, bar till 2; Sun brunch 11:30-3/ No reservations/ MC, BA, AE, CB/ $$)
J. Mulkey’s. A delightful beer garden and restaurant serving sandwiches and home-style hot plate lunches and dinners, $1.95-$2.25. The blackboard menu changes daily. Live entertainment every evening except Monday, usually a solo musician or small group. (3136 Routh St. at Woodrow (Chelsea Square) / 748-3500/ Tue-Sun8am-10pm, except Sat till lam; Mon 8am -5pm/ No reservations/No credit cards/$)
Mariano’s. A lively mariachi band, fantastic frozen margaritas, and lavish Mexican courtyard decor contribute to the fiesta feeling that has made this a popular place. Recent expansion has taken the dancing out of the aisles and on to a real dance floor. A full menu of Mexican food – good, but not great, and a little expensive. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/ 691-3888/ Sun-Thur 1111:30, bar till 1; Fri & Sat 11-11, bar till 2/ No reservations/ MC.BA.AE/ $$)
The Pawn Shop. A beautifully designed and decorated bar/restaurant with balcony drinking parlors, a network of overhead fans, and a scattering of antiques and plants. The menu was recently changed and expanded and now offers variations of steak, shrimp, teriyaki chicken, and barbecued pork chops. Very popular happy hour from 4-7 every day. (5601 Greenville across from Old Town/691-2411/Daily 11:30aml:30am/Reservations/MC,BA,AE/$$)
Randy Tar. If you like steak-and-salad-bar restaurants, this is one of the better ones; comfortable, tastefully decorated, with efficient and unobtrusive service. The food is simple – a limited menu of mostly steaks and seafood, with the usual a la carte side offerings like artichokes, baked potatoes, and sauteed mushrooms. Large portions make up for large prices. They have very good fresh-baked whole wheat bread, and the do-it-yourself salad bar has a nice selection of trimmings. A pleasant bar with live entertainment. (7043 Greenville Ave/ 691-7102/ Daily 5:30-11 p.m., Fri & Sat till 12; Bar till 2 a.m. nightly/ No reservations/ MC, BA, AE/ $$$)
Stoneleigh P. A pharmacy from 1926-1973, furniture and fixtures have been restored to recreate an old time pharmacy setting, with relaxed and congenial atmosphere. The unusual menu includes provolone cheeseburgers on pumpernickel buns and grilled, marinated chicken breasts, plus soup, salad, and sandwiches – all very good. A comprehensive magazine rack with browsing encouraged and a fabulous juke box ranging from Bach to Stones. (2926 Maple/ 741-0824/ 11 a.m.-2 a.m. seven days a week/Noireservations /No credit cards /$)
T.G.I. Friday’s. A lively and popular old standby on the bar/restaurant scene. A menu of steaks, burgers, shrimp, chicken – nothing extravagant, but all in very hefty portions at reasonable prices; in fact, one of the better steak values in town. The chef salad is simply gigantic. Special features include a half-price drink celebration beginning at midnight on Thursday nights and a champagne brunch ($1.95, all you can drink) on Sundays. Casual atmosphere of striped tablecloth/tiffany lamp motif. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/ 363-5353/ Daily 11p.m.- 2 a.m. / MC, BA.AE/ $$)
