D-DINING DIRECTORY

Restaurant rating can be a highly arbitrary process. These listings have been compiled not only from our own experiences, but also from evaluations solicited from a cross-section of the city’s epicureans. The listings are net meant to be conclusive, but are designed to convey an idea of what to expect.

Restaurants, of course, change. These listings will be revised and supplemented periodically to reflect those changes. To that end, opinions and comments from our readers will receive careful consideration.

These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit, then, that we recommend them highly. Where criticism is imposed, it is as a service to our readers, indicating that in a particular area of service or cuisine a restaurant does not fully meet the standards of excellence expected of it. If and when those negative conditions improve, we will happily note the change for the better in the listings. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general range.

$ -Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ – Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$-Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $8 for a complete meal.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities. Credit card notations: MC -Master Charge/ BA-BankAmericard/ AE-American Express/ DC -Diner’s Club/ CB-Carte Blanche/ “All Credit Cards” indicates that all the above are accepted.



The Dining Experience…

These restaurants are those which best provide a complete dining experience-consistent excellence in cuisine, service, and atmosphere. They are generally, though not always, characterized by expansive menus, attentive staff, and tasteful surroundings.

Arthur’s. The noted prime beef specialties remain consistently excellent. A delightful diversion from beef is, surprisingly enough, the delicious calves liver. The chicken and seafood entrees are not particularly outstanding. Fine spinach salad. A unique feature is the wine list -American wines only with some intriguing selections, though more half bottles would be nice. Gracious service in chic surroundings. A fabulous bar lone of Dallas’ best) with entertainment nightlv. (1000 Campbell Centre/ 361 -8833/ Sun.-Fri. 11:30-2, 6-11; Sat. 6-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit Cards/ $$$)

Bagatelle. So pleasant and comfortable are the surroundings-a relaxed “French country style” atmosphere replete with softly cushioned chairs-that fingers are being kept crossed in hopes that the cuisine will eventually match the comfort. Despite a very qualified staff and an interesting menu of continental preparations leaning towards the simple rather than the extravagant, Bagatelle has not yet lived up to expectations. The beef tournedos or the Roquefort Pillow Steak can provide a nice meal, but the biggest drawing card at present is the bar -very attractive and currently featuring some Dfine jazz by Paul Guerrero and his group. A Sunday buffet brunch offers made-to-order omelettes, your choice of many ingredients. (One Energy Square, Gree’nville Ave. at University/ 692-82241 Lunch, daily except Sat., 11-2; Dinner, Sun.-Thur. 6-10, Fri. & Sat. til 11. Bar til 1:30 a.m. nightly/ Reservations/ MC, BA,AE/$$$)

The Beefeater Inn. When you’ve experienced The Beefeater at its best (at which time their beef specialties are without peer), it is especially disappointing that, for some reason, they are unable to do it consistently. Failure to cook to order and cat^less preparation of side dishes just shouldn’t happen in a place with such potential for excellence. An unexpected surprise – delicious lamb chops. A sophisticated, if slightly stuffy, elegance. (2425 Cedar Springs/ 748-25531 Mon.-Fri. 6-10:30, Sat. til 11:30/ Reservations/ AE, BA/$$$)

Bellmaster. Unlike most upper echelon restaurants, this one is recommended more strongly for lunch than dinner-the service seems more personal, the atmosphere feels more comfortable, and the prices are less in the daytime. The food, equally good day or night, has given this relatively new restaurant a very solid reputation. Most notable are the frog legs LaFourche and the veal scallops in whiskey, both served in superb sauces and in huge portions. Another highlight is the double lamb chops (“Royale”), big and cooked perfectly to order. An ambience of relaxed elegance. Bar (and food) by “membership.” (Carillon Plaza, 13601 Preston Rd./ 661-9353/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Mon.-Fri. 5-12, Sat. 6:30-12. Bar til 2, Fri. & Sat./ Reservations/ MC,BA/ $$$)

Blooms. A delightful new little restaurant tucked in a frame house just off Cedar Springs, simply and tastefully redone, embellished with plants and graphics. A rotating menu of 3 or 4 continental entrees. All of their food has the same touch of simple, refined elegance that characterizes the place, right down to a bar of best brands only. Service is cordial and attentive. (2917 Fair-mount/ 745-9571/ Lunch: Tue.-Fri. 11:30-2, Sun. brunch 12-2; Dinner: Sun., Tue.-Thur. 6-10:30,Fri. & Sat. til 12/ No reservations/ MC, BA/ $$)

Chablis. Only sometimes do the French specialties here achieve the excellence that the prices and reputation of Chablis lead you to expect. The escargot are indeed superb and the Veal Scallopini Marsala is a favorite among patrons. Service is slow when crowded, but very attentive otherwise. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routhl 522-0910/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Mon.-Thur. 6-11, Fri. & Sat. til midnight/ Reservations at night/ MC,BA,DC/ $$$)

Chateaubriand. The strong point is variety. Whatever you order from the wide-ranging continental menu is likely to be good (though, for some reason, unfounded rumors to the contrary have always seemed to persist about this place). Bountiful servings at moderate prices. The salads alone are worth a visit. Or try it for better than average Greek food. The ambience can only be described as continental decadent posh (see for yourself). (2515 McKinney/ 741-1223/ Mon.-Sat. 11:30-midnightfReservations/ All credit cards/ $$)

China Inn. With a consistency of excellence remarkable in such a relatively new restaurant, China Inn has quickly and solidly established itself at the forefront of the Oriental restaurant scene. All of the sweet and sour dishes are perfectly prepared and the Chicken Sub Gum is superb. The trimmings, from the egg rolls to the Won Ton soup, are of the same high quality. A simple and tasteful decor accented by lots of fresh flowers. (6521 E. Northwest Hwy./ 369-7733/ Mon.Fri. 11-2, 5-11; Sat. 5-11; Sun.11-11/ AE,BA,MC/$).

Enclave. A promising entry in the suddenly booming field of Dallas haute cuisine. With a very traditional and somewhat uninspired decor of flocked burgundy wallpaper, smoked mirrors and crystal chandeliers, the Enclave will have to rely on its widely varied continental menu to keep up with the competition. Some very fine standouts include the mushrooms stuffed with crabmeat, the veal Collette en papillote, and the filet mignon belle Helene with artichoke bottom filled with a bearnaise sauce unexcelled anywhere. Unfortunately, the less-than-average trimmings and some weak spots in the menu do not quite justify the “haute prices.” The wine list is wanting, notably lacking in moderately priced selections. Service is usually excellent. (8325 Walnut Hill 363-7847/ Lunch. Mon.Fri. 11:30-2:30; Dinner, Mon.-Sat. 6-11, bar til 12/ Reservations/ MC, BA,AE, DC / $$$)

Ewald’s. Interesting continental specialties, consistently well-prepared. Though noted for his fine veal dishes, Ewald also serves a pepper steak that may well be the best you’ll find in Dallas. A quiet and gracious atmosphere; very plain except for one unusual feature-an observation window through which you can watch the work in the immaculate kitchen. (5415 W. Lovers Ln./ 3571622/ Mon.Fri. 6-10:30, Sat. 6- 11/ MC, BA/ Reservations/ $$$)

The Grape. A unique and always crowded restaurant boasting 25 varieties of cheese and a menu of light entrees that changes daily. The tournedos bearnaise are a favorite. For a touch of pure excellence, try any of the homemade soups (fresh mushroom is the specialty). During busy hours, which is most of the time, service can be painfully slow. Unusual wine list. No mixed drinks. (2808 Greenville Ave.l 823-0133/ Lunch: Mon.Fri. 11:30-2:30. Dinner: Tues.-Sun., 6-10:30, open later on Fri. & Sat. for wine and cheese only/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $$)

Ianni’s. The special menu of Italian hors d’oeuvres is so loaded with good-ies-from Spiedini (a stuffed miniature veal roll) to toasted ravioli to Italian sausage that is without peer -that a dinner of all appetizers is very tempt-ing. If you’ve got room left, the Veal Scallopine Ianni is the best of the spe-cialties. The atmosphere, unfortu-nately, is noisy. (2230 Greenville Ave.l 826-6161/ Daily 5:3011:30/ Reserva-tions/ MC.AEI $$)II Sorrento. Classical Italian cuisine of very high quality, from the most am-bitious Italian menu in town. You can hardly miss, but especially good are the dishes with homemade flat pasta, in-cluding the fettucine and the taglia-telle, both prepared at your table. The service is frequently as lavish as the Italian street scene decor, complete with strolling musicians. (8616 Turtle Creek/ 352-8759/ Daily 5:30-11, Sat. til midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

Marcel’s. Marcel’s has always been very French in its appeal and consistently good in its cuisine. Recently, however, there has been a noticeable lack of care and flair. Marcel still prepares a brilliant Beef Wellington and in Le Cabaret, the newer dining room, the complete table d’hote dinner (including all the hors d’ouevres you can eat) for only $5.50 is definitely a gourmet bargain. But all in all, not the place it used to be. An interesting menu note claims “we will prepare any classical French cuisine upon request”. Attentive service in a quiet, relaxed atmosphere. (5721 W. Lovers Ln./ 358-2103/ Sun.-Thur. 5:30-10:30, Fri. & Sat. til midnight, closed Monday/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE,DC/$$)

Mario’s. Elegant and refined, to be sure, and, on a good night, capable of Italian specialties as interesting and rewarding as any of the best dishes in the city. But consistency in both food and service has faltered lately. Recommended: Saltim-bocca alia Romana, manicotti, fried zucchini. The veal with artichoke hearts and mushrooms is famous and deservedly so. And no matter what precedes it, the spumoni for dessert is always a delight. (135 Turtle Creek Village/ 521-1135/ Daily 6-10:45, Sat. til 11:45/ Reservations/ All credit cards/$$$

Mr. Peppe. Perhaps not the very best French cuisine in Dallas (though some still swear it is), but certainly the very best for the money – a refreshingly well-priced menu. Albert, who is also owner and a charming host, is still the finest breads and pastries chef around. His creations alone warrant a visit. The pate maison is also especially fine. There is a relaxed and comfortable feeling here, abetted by a staff of cordial waiters. (5617 W. Lovers Ln./ 352-5976/ Mon.-Sat. 6-10/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE/ $$$)

Old Warsaw. Its heritage of excellence in providing the complete French-continental dining experience is being challenged by frequent reports of slow and indifferent service. The menu of many superlatives remains intact: Chicken Kiev, Duck Bigarade, Red Snapper Meuniere and the Chateaubriand en Papillote to name a few of the best. Salads & vegetables are disappointing. A very fine wine list. (2610 Maple/ 528-0032/ Daily 6-11, Sat. til midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

Oporto Oyster Bar. The closest thing Dallas has to a real seafood restaurant. At that, you should be very careful about what you order. Best bets are Boston schrod, broiled red snapper and the whole baby flounder. Other consistent standouts are the broiled Maine lobster and oysters on the half shell. The sporadic service has been rude and inefficient at times, near perfect at others. An expertly tended bar, with an impressive array of dessert drinks. Informal atmosphere. (2929 N. Henderson/ 826-25531 Daily 5-11, Fri. & Sat. till midnight/ MC, BA,AE/ $$)

Oz. Superlatives abound in this exciting new restaurant/club. A chef and staff with glowing international credentials offer a variety of unusual and brilliantly prepared specialities. Particularly impressive are the pheasant with grapes and brown sauce and the striped bass. The hors d’oeuvre plate of smoked fish and a luscious paté in puff pastry are sensational. An exhaustive wine list. The service has yet to really get itself together; hopefully just opening pains. The ultra-modern, neon and mirrored interior is interesting, but somewhat incongruous with the haute cuisine. Prices are high, but justifiably so. A private club, memberships are $25 per year or $5 for a temporary (3 day) membership. (5429 LBJ Freeway/ 233-5755/ Tue.-Sun. 6-11 p.m., temporarily/ Reservations only/ MC. BA, AE/ $$$)

Patry’s. It seems unfortunate (and unnecessary) that such fine French cuisine is served in surroundings so loud and bright. A little toning down could do wonders for this place. But it hasn’t dented its popularity, due in part to the exquisite hors d’ouevres, especially the stuffed leeks in cream sauce and the special pate Rillettes. The duck Bi-garade is also worthy of special note. This is basically a family operation and, perhaps predictably, the service is very pleasant but not too efficient. (2504 McKinnevI 748-3754/ Tue.-Fri. 6-11, Sat. till 11:30/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ $$$)

Peking Palace. The most lavish decor of any of Dallas’ many Oriental restaurants is usually matched by equally impressive cuisine. They’ve had their ups and downs lately, but when they’re up, the Mandarin and Szechuan specialities still rank with the best. Perhaps the most extensive variety of any Chinese menu in the city. Try the fried dumplings for openers. Peking duck, a very interesting preparation, is available on an hour’s notice. The ginger beef and the Nanking and Seshun pork dishes are all excellent. More expensive than most Oriental cuisine and definitely better at dinner than lunch. (4119 Lomo Alto/ 522-1830/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon.-Thurs. 5-11, Sat. & Sun. til midnight. Sun. 12-10/ Reservations on weekends/ MC, BA.AEI $$)

Pepperport. A reliable restaurant featuring consistently good cuisine-mostly American specialities. Recommended highly as a lunch spot, especially for people living or working in far north Dallas. Note: they have discontinued their late night menu on weekends. A very comfortable ambience with a colonial charm. Cocktails by “membership” onlv – it’s dry out here. (Carillon Towers, 13601 Preston Rd./ 661-3237/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon.-Thur. 6:30-10:30, Fri. & Sat. til 11/ Reservations for 6 or more/ MC, BA, AE/$$)

Pietro’s. Small and comfortable, Pietro’s serves some of the better pasta dishes in Dallas. Southern Italian homestyle cooking. The manicotti and cannelloni lead the way. The garlic bread is a must and the pizza is the best in town, period. Usually crowded, but worth the wait. (5722 Richmond, off Greenville! 824-94031 Tue.-Thur. 5-10:30, Fri & Sat. til 11:30/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $$)

Pyramid Room. All in all, this is currently the finest restaurant in Dallas. And the most expensive. Truly gourmet. Recommendations are superfluous, but the Grand Marnier souffle is masterful. Usually a paragon of service in an atmosphere of affluence. The luncheon buffet has been replaced by a limited menu of lighter, smaller-portioned entrees in the $5-$8 range, all excellent. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard/ 748-54541 Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2, Dinner: Daily 6-midnightl Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

Royal Tokyo. A relative newcomer that has proven consistent with well-prepared Japanese cuisine, and it seems to be improving with age. Standouts are the Ton Katsu (delicate batter fried pork strips) and the Shrimp Tempura. Green tea lit’s terrific), imported Japanese beer & whiskey and, of course, saki. (7525 Greenville Ave./ 368-3304/ Daily 11-2, 5:30-11:301 MC, BA, AE/ Reservations/$$)

South China. A varied and adventurous menu of exquisite Chinese cuisine. This small, unassuming restaurant is rapidly building a reputation for the best Oriental food in the city. Recommended: Moo Shi pork, any of the dishes with superb black bean sauce, and all the chicken dishes. Two special treats are the Chinese steamed dumplings and the bean curd & pork soup. Personable and personalized service. (5424 E. Mockingbird! 826-5420/ Lunch: Tue.-Sun. 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Tue-Thur. 5-11, Fri. & Sat. til 12, Sun. til 111 Reservations/ MC.BA,AE/$)

Trader Vic’s. There are Trader Vic’s all over the country, but don’t let that scare you away. They’re all different and this one is quite good. The Indonesian lamb roast and the limestone lettuce salad are worth a dinner trip any time. Great hors d’oeuvres and fun drinks, but avoid the Planters Punch. (Hilton Inn, 5600 N. Cen. Expwy./ 827-3620/ Mon.-Sat. 5-12/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)

Zodiac Room. A buffet production that delights the eye as well as the palate. Luncheon delicacies of the first order (though it used to be better) with a special flair for desserts – they are phenomenal. The fresh fruit salad (in season) with the deservedly famous poppy seed dressing is super. Service is leisurely, to say the least. Danish pastries in the morning from 9:30-10:30. Wine and beer. (Neiman-Marcus, downtown/ 741-6911/ Lunch: Mon.-Sat. 11-2:30, Dinner buffet, Thurs. only, 5-7/ Reservations! Neiman-Marcus charge card only, Checks accepted/ $$)



Something different…

These restaurants represent the best of Dallas’ offbeat, funky, or somehow out-of-the-ordinary dining spots. They are generally characterized by specialized cuisine, distinctive decor, or unusual special features (and often by bargain prices).

Brasserie. The cream of the all-night restaurant crop. Of special note are the scrambled eggs with lox and onions (where else can you get that at 3 a.m.?), some terrific pastries and luscious bitter sweet chocolate ice cream. The later it is, the better it all seems to taste. Four rotating menus including dinner on a changing international theme and breakfast served at all hours. Sidewalk cafe motif. Usually fast service. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard/ 748-5454/ 24 hours, 7 davs a week/ MC, BA. AE, DC/ $$)

Campisi’s Egyptian Restaurant. The original Dallas pizza parlor still serves some of the best pizza in town and at very reasonable prices. If pizza doesn’t fit your mood, forget it -you’ll have to fill up on an appetizer basket of crab claws. They’re a treat. Avoid the salad. Good late night spot. Try it on a week-night-the weekends are usually jammed. (5610 E. Mockingbird/ 827-0355/ Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-midnight. Sat. til 1 a.m., Sun. noon-midnight/ No credit cards. Checks accepted/ Reservations for 6 or more/ $)

Celebration. Home cooking served family style. The all-you-can-eat prices (from $2.50-$4.50 depending upon the entree) are still a dinner bargain, but the food is not what it used to be and the place has not been well-maintained. A good place for kids -children’s plates are only SI-SI.50. Fun atmosphere. No bar, bring your own wine. (4503 W. Lovers Lunel 351-5681/ Mon.-Sat. 5:30-11, Sun. til 10:301 No reservations/ MC, BA/ $>

The Chimney. In the tearoom tradition, but this one has a lot more to offer than your usual crustless pimento cheese sandwich. The menu changes daily, with seafood and chicken specialties the standouts. Delightful lunching in a southern colonial atmosphere. Now also open for dinner. (Willow Creek, 9739 N. Central Expwy.l 369-6466/ Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 612 p.m.I Reservations! No credit cards. Checks accepted/ $$)

La Creperie. Dine on the outdoor patio on a nice day and you won’t mind the consistently slow service. Choose from almost 50 varieties of crepes – the white asparagus and swiss cheese is a winner. Dessert crepes from 50c-$5 and 10 varieties of espresso. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routhl 651-05061 Mon.-Wed. 11-10:30, Thur.-Sat. till 111 Reservations recommended! MC, BA, DC/ $$)

Cuquita’s Cafe. Slightly tacky but very friendly Mexican cafe. The regular fare is tasty but heavy stuff in overly generous portions, so try a lunch of great guacamole salad and fresh homemade corn tortillas. (2718 Harry Hinesl 742-08331 Tues.-Sun. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Closed Mon.l No credit cards! $)

Daddy’s Money. Attracts a lively crowd -and we do mean crowd -so expect a long wait at the bar before dining. Order the fine rack of lamb or you’ll get an average meal. Another alternative is to go for Sunday brunch which features some great fresh fruit daiqui-ries as well as some interesting omelettes. The service can be bothersome-the waiters insist on introducing themselves, for some reason. The three-level dining room creates a nice effect. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville Ave.l 363-8686/ Mon.-Thur. 11-11, Fri. & Sat. 11-12:30, Sun. 10-11. Drinks til 2 a.m. daily/ No reservations/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ $$)

La Esquina. Mexican food New Mexico style, so they say. This means enchiladas that are layered rather than rolled, beef chunks instead of ground beef, more chilies than cheese. Definitely different and usually good, though not particularly exciting (the pork and red chili enchilada is a good example for the curious). Sometimes sensational sopapilias -they vary from day to day, as does the service. Homemade sangria and margaritas by the litre. Quiet setting in a neat old house. Seems overpriced (tortilla – 15￠?). (2815 McKinneyl 826-2950/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-1:30, Dinner: Mon.-Thur. 6-9:30, Fri. & Sat. til 101 Reservations not needed/ No credit cards/Checks accepted/ $$)

Gallery Buffet at the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts. For $2.50 you can have a delightful lunch of hearty soups, salad, hot homemade bread loaves, and splendid desserts. A tradition of delicious food at a delicious price. Wine extra. (Fair Park! 428-6263! Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-l:30p.m.I No reservations/ $)

Genghis Khan Mongolian Feast. Try this one once and pass your own judgment. Some like it (especially kids), some don’t. The “feast” goes like this: Help yourself to thin slices of raw beef, pork, turkey, and lamb; garnish with vegetables, spices, and sauce; take it to the brazier where the mixture is grilled while you watch. Hint: Try it at lunch first-it’s cheaper then. (4830 Greenville/ 361-02801 Tues.-Fri. 11:30-2, 5:30-11; Sat. & Sun. 5-10 only/ Reservations not needed/ All credit cards/ $$)

Goldflnger. In a city with a dearth of good Greek food, this is one of few options left since El Greco burned down. The menu has the standard Greek offerings and features a house specialty combination of souflaki and large shrimp. The food is fairly good, if unimaginative. Becoming increasingly popular on weekends as an entertainment spot. (2905 Cridelle, Bachman Lake area! 350-6983/ Daily 11:30-2, 6-11; Fri. & Sat. til midnightl Reservations on weekends! MC, BA, AEI $$)

The Health Nut. Dallas’ best health food restaurant. A homemade cream cheese sandwich on wheatberry bread that is sure to please, whether you’re a health nut or not. In general, however, portions are rather small and prices are rather large. Wonderful fresh fruit or vegetable salads. Great smoothies. Casual atmosphere, to say the least, and clever decor with glass table tops on tree stumps. Warning: no smoking. (4220 Oak Lawn/ 526-4050/ Daily 11-91 No credit cards! $)

Herrera Cafe. Mexican home cooking at its best. Don’t be put off by the hole-in-the-wall decor-the food is first class. Watch them make the flour tortillas as you walk in, then order them -a rare treat. The hot sauce is different, delicious, and hot. And the soft cheese tacos have to be tasted to be appreciated-surely the best ever. They’re contemplating expansion (there are only 9 tables), so go while it’s good (remember Ojeda’s?). Bring your own beer. (3902 Maple/ 526-94271 Weekdays 9-8, Weekends til 10. Closed Tuesday! No credit cards! No reservations! $)

Hungry Hunter. The “wild game” fare here tends to be a little tame (the Russian wild boar tastes very much like A&P pork). But then again, where else can you have the novel satisfaction of ordering buffalo or mouflon? The brace of quail and the Long Island duck provide very good alternatives to the more exotic (but less tasty) game. Service is friendly and attentive. Ambience is hunting lodge chic. And the bartender has some incredibly potent concoctions-ask for his Rolls Royce. (Keystone Park, 13931 N. Cen. Expwy.l 690-80901 Lunch: 11:30-3 except Sat., Dinner: 6-11, Fri. & Sat. til midnightl Bar open til 2 a.m.! MC, BA, AEI $$$)

Jamil’s Steak House. Lebanese hors d’oeuvres with all dinners are the added attraction here, good and filling. Included, among other tidbits, are a Ta-bouli salad, cabbage rolls, and a basket of barbecue ribs and bologna. Steaks are good, big cuts at bargain prices (such as an almost unheard of 24 oz. T-bone, $7.95). (2901 W. Northwest Hwy.l 352-90711 Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11-2, Dinner: Daily 5-midnightl Reservations! All credit cards/ $$)

Khalil’s Beirut. Excellent Middle Eastern cuisine, and one of the few places in the city that you’ll find it. Service is questionable; recent visits have found management and staff inattentive and unresponsive. The atmosphere has been vastly improved by recent redecoration. (31 Highland Park Village! 526-5600/ Mon.-Sat. 11-101 Reservations for 6 or morel MCI $$)

Kirby’s. A dependable, no-nonsense steak house, the first steak specialty restaurant in Dallas. Mr. Kirby still runs the place and there are no bad surprises. Attentive but unobtrusive service. The filet is an especially good value. Great onion rings, but the salads are a weak item. (3715 Greenville/ 823-72961 Tues.-Sun. 5:30-10:30, Fri. & Sat. til midnight/ Reservations! AH credit cards! $$)

Kuby’s Sausage House. Dallas’ best deli-restaurant. A cheery place with a German accent. Browse the German magazine rack while you’re standing in line (lunchtime is always crowded). Or leave your lunchmate to stand in line while you check out the fascinating grocery imports. Marvelous pastrami and nicely priced daily specials. No bar. (6601 Snider Plazal 363-2231/ Mon.-Sat. 11 -2:30, Sandwiches til 5:30/ MC/ $)

The Magic Pan. Usually over-crowded, but worth it. Excellent crepes (you can watch them being made) and a fine spinach salad. Try the Chantilly crepes for dessert. Recommended for a Sunday brunch when the shopping crowd is gone. Note: There is a $1.50 per person minimum, so don’t stop in for a cup of coffee. (NorthPark-New Malll 692-75741 Sun.-Thur. 11-midnight, Fri. & Sat. til II No reservations! MC, BA, AE/$$)

Mariano’s. A good mariachi band, lavish Mexican courtyard decor, and fantastic frozen margaritas do their best to hide the fact that the food is only passable at prices that are questionable. (Old Town, 5500 Greenvillel 691-3888/ Sun.-Thurs. 11 -10:30, Bar till; Fri. & Sat. 11 -11, Bar til 21 No reservations! MC, BA, AEI $$)

Ojeda Cafe. It’s no longer the living legend it once was -popularity and expansion have tarnished its charm and brought consistently insurmountable crowds. But the puffed tacos are still the best around. Beer only. (4447 Maple/ 526-9261/ Tue.-Fri. 11-3, 5-8:30; Sat. & Sun. 11-8:30; Closed Mon.l 4011 Cedar Springs/ 521-4740/ Mon., Wed.-Fri. 11-3, 5-9; Sat. & Sun. 11-9; Closed Tues.l No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)

Old Spaghetti Warehouse. One for the kids. An old Market St. warehouse brought back to life and loaded with antiques and novelties (including a real City of Dallas trolley car). It’s possible that the spaghetti is also antique. But it’s a very popular family spot, fun and different. And all the antiques are for sale, even the trolley car ($100,000). (1815 N. Market St./ 651-8475/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11-2:30, Dinner: Mon.-Thur. 5:30-11, Fri. & Sat. 5-12, Sun. 12-10/ Reservations for 20 or more only/ MC, BA,AE/$)

Penny Pinchers. An unusual place with an all-you-can-eat buffet of impressive variety. Choose from such diversities as Creole cuisine, curried chicken, beef teriyaki, and Swedish meatballs. Home cooked in a homey atmosphere by husband and wife owners. Food is undistinguished, and the price ($6) won’t pinch any pennies, but it’s a good spot for the very hungry. Beer & wine only. (6556 Skillmanl 341-21271 Mon.-Sat. 6-10/ Reservations, but not necessary/ MC, AE/$$)

Sakura. Dine Japanese style: on the floor, shoeless, with chopsticks, in Oriental robes provided by the restaurant. (Or at a regular table if you prefer.) Most dishes cooked at your table. More for the fun than for the food, which is average. (5206 Maple! 522-02001 Tues.-Sun. 6-111 Reservations! All credit cards/ $$)

Satian’s. Although billed as a Thai restaurant, the menu includes a variety of other Oriental dishes. The Chiangmai beef is quite good and the Thai shrimp rolls are superb, though the sweet and sour sauce leans a bit heavily to the sweet side. Forget the fried rice. Low-key decor and a loud-key folksinger hardly create an atmosphere of old Siam, but Thai classical dancing is performed Fri. & Sat. at 8:30 p.m. and is worth seeing. Service is gracious. Bar by “membership”. (Kevstone Park. 13931 N. Cen. Expwy.l 690-0682/ Lunch Tue.-Fri., 11-2:30, Dinner Tues.-Sun. 5-11 p.m., lounge til 121 MC, BA, AEI $$)

Sonny Bryan’s. The best barbecue in town? It may well be, but it’s a close race. The other two contenders are Smitty’s on McKinney and Salih’s in Preston Center. All have similar menus and luscious barbecue in generous portions. Sonny Bryan’s has the most authentic “smokehouse” atmosphere and great onion rings. Smitty’s has the most comfortable dining room, but it’s only open for lunch. Salih’s has the best prices, but no beer. So the deciding factor may be which one is closest to you. (Sonny Brvan’s,2202 Inwoodl 357-71201 Mon.-Sat.” 6 a.m.8 p.m., Sun. 11-211 Smitty’s, 2720 McKinney! 823-03691 Mon.Fri. 7 a.m.-3:30 p.m., closed weekends/I Salih’s, 8309 Westchesterl 361-16841 Mon.-Sat. 11-7:451/ No credit cards! $)



Southern Kitchen. Feast in the style and tradition of the Old South. And a feast it is -their “Deluxe” dinner is an assortment of fried chicken, smoked chicken, fried shrimp, fried trout, and deviled crab, plus shrimp cocktail, crabmeat appetizers, and many other trimmings for $7.95. Additional servings of everything at no extra cost. None of the preparations (except for the luscious homemade cinnamon rolls) could be called extraordinary, but the magnitude of the meal is impressive enough. The two locations, East and West, have identical menus, but the West has a more handsomely appointed plantation-style atmosphere including waiters and waitresses in period costume. (West, 2356 W. Northwest Hwy., 352-5220/ East, 6615 E. Northwest Hwy., 368-1658! Mon.-Sat. 5:30 p.m.-10:30p.m., Sun. 5-10 p.m.! Reservations for 5 or more! All credit cards! $$)

Taxco Cafe. Good Tex-Mex specialties, especially for the newcomer to Mexican cuisine. The preparations are subtle, not so highly seasoned. Excellent guacamole and the refried beans are the real thing. Friendly service with prices that may be the best value in Dallas. Beer only. (2126 N. St. Paul/ 742-07471 Wed.-Sun. 10:30-9, Mon. 10:30-8, closed Tue.l No reservations! MCI $)

T.G.I. Friday’s. A lively and popular restaurant/bar (or bar/restaurant, depending upon what you’re there for). A menu of steaks, burgers, shrimp, chicken-nothing extravagant, but all in very hefty portions at reasonable prices; in fact, one of the better steak values in town. The chef salad is simply gigantic. Special features include a half-price drink celebration beginning at midnight on Thursday nights and a champagne brunch ($1.95, all you can drink) on Sundays. Casual atmosphere of striped tablecloth/tiffany lamp motif. (Old Town, 550 Greenville Ave.l 363-53531 11 a.m.-2 a.m. seven days a weekl MC,BA,AE/$$)

Upper Crust. Tasty home-cooking in old-fashioned kitchen motif. Entrees change daily and range widely from liver to lasagna. Good red beans & corn-bread at lunchtime and salad with an unusual buttermilk dressing. No alcoholic beverages sold. (Olla Podrida, 12215 Coit Rd.l 661-57381 Lunch: Mon.-Sat. 11-3, Dinner: Thursdays only, 5:30-8:301 No reservations/ No credit cards/ $



Newcomers…

These recent arrivals to the Dallas restaurant scene are not necessarily recommended (yet), but are listed just to indicate where they are and what they’ve got.



Calluaud Traiteur. A small “French cafe” tucked into a corner of the Quadrangle (where The Deli was before), serving very good continental dishes highlighted by a daily luncheon special, $2.25-2.95. Also sandwiches, quiche, and pastries. Chef Guy Calluaud certainly has the credentials: not only is he a former Pyramid Room chef, but his great grandmother cheffed for Napolean III; many of his preparations are her recipes. Mainly a lunch spot, though breakfast (very standard) is served daily and dinner is served Thursday evenings only. Casual and comfortable. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/ 748-74591 Mon.-Sat. 8 a.m.-5 p.m., Thur. til 8:30/ No reservations! No credit cards! $)



Tidbits…

Monthly notes of special treats in special places.



Hidden behind the guise of a plain old ordinary neighborhood bar lurks one of the better lunch bargains in town. The Hofbrau on N. Fitzhugh serves a $1.50 plate lunch of knackwurst, bratwurst or Polish sausage, all very good; an excellent hot German potato salad; and a choice of other trimmings- kraut, beans, etc. Wash it all down with a Lowenbrau. (2543 N. Fitzhugh/ 823-7230/ Food served Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.,5-8 p.m.)

The Peking Palace people have recently taken over the Dynasty Restaurant,leaving a temporary question mark as tothe overall quality under the new regime.But already they’ve distinguished themselves with one feature, a “breakfast”menu of Chinese hors d’oeuvres servedfrom 11 p.m.-3 a.m. So next time you havea craving for Chinese food at 2 in themorning, you know now where to go. (5214Greenville/ 268-6883/ Lunch, Mon.-Fri.11:30-2; Dinner, Mon.-Sat. 5-11; Breakfast,Mon.-Sat. 11 p.m.-3 a.m.)