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DINING

How to Cook a Perfect Turkey
By Frank Bailey |

A pretentious premise, I realize, but I simply no longer could contain myself. I have for several years now sensed an alarming “No More Turkey” movement afoot. Ham is making a comeback, and an odd darkhorse known as the “turkey roll” is coming on strong. This alarms me because I half sympathize with the movement: The dry, tasteless, Styrofoam turkey has become as bad a holiday habit as the plastic Christmas tree.

It is not supposed to be that way, and it doesn’t have to be. A little curiosity about what a turkey should taste like (or the conviction that it should taste), a little care, and a good bird are all that is necessary to nip this movement in the bud.

The first step should be in the direction of the market. It will cost you more (89 to 99 cents a pound), but a fresh, non-frozen turkey is the only way to go if you want to pull off a tasty, turkey coup. Good fresh birds can be had at any of the fine groceries in town. My personal favorites are Kuby’s, Clark’s and Fisher’s.

Now to the main order of business: cooking -or rather, not overcooking– the turkey. Pre-heat the oven to 425 degrees. Rinse and thoroughly dry the turkey. Salt and pepper the bird inside and out, then rub with softened butter. Put a roughly chopped onion and apple inside the cavity of the bird, along with three rashers of good bacon. Truss the turkey neatly and place it on its side in a roasting pan, outfitted with a rack or on a mirepoix of carrots and onions. Let the turkey brown on this side for 20 to 30 minutes. Then flip to the other side and repeat the process.

Finally, place the bird breast up and brown for 20 to 30 minutes more. Reduce the oven to 350 degrees and cover the breast of the turkey with bacon. Then cover the entire turkey with a loose tent of aluminum foil and roast, basting with butter and pan juices every 20 minutes. The final baste should be with butter and brandy. The best test of when the bird is finished is to pierce the meaty part of the thigh. When the juices run clear, the turkey is done. Do not overcook. Let the turkey rest 20 minutes before carving, to allow the juices to distribute themselves through the meat.

Cooking Time: Approximately 15 minutes per pound, although if more stuffing is used, you should allow up to 20 minutes per pound.

Now to a second problem, leftovers. Forget the sandwiches for a moment, and consider the following:

1. Brush slices of cooked turkey breast lightly with Dijon mustard and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a touch of paprika. Dredge in dry white breadcrumbs, shake off the excess and either sauté in butter or broil slowly until nicely browned. Serve with leftover giblet gravy.

2. Make a veloute sauce by melting 4 tablespoons butter in a saucepan and adding 4 tablespoons flour. Cook over moderate heat, stirring until the flour begins to brown. Add one cup of boiling chicken or turkey broth, 1/2 cup dry white wine, and 1/2 cup cream. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes. Add two cups diced cooked turkey, and season with salt, pepper, and a few grains of cayenne pepper. Put the mixture on toast, or stuff it into mushroom caps, or tomatoes, sprinkle it with grated parmesan, and bake for 15 minutes or until nicely browned.

Variation: You may make the veloute sauce without the wine and an additional 1/2 cup of heavy cream, cook it over moderate heat for 15 minutes and add one to two tablespoons curry powder to taste and serve over rice.

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