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DINING OUT/Food and Spirts

By D Magazine |

Entree

The Last Roundup: In Search of the Perfect Barbecue



Every Texan worth his sauce has his favorite barbecue pit. A multitude of Dallas Texans have informed us in no uncertain terms of their own personal favorite, always with the same unshakeable testimonial: “It’s the best barbecue in town.” Whether it was Barney’s or Bert’s or Bo’s Barbecue, always the same – “the best.”

A definitive answer was obviously needed. It would be a simple matter of research. At its conclusion we would report, with confidence and finality, where to get the best barbecue in Dallas. No problem.

Things quickly got out of hand. For every barbecue stand we tracked down there would inevitably be another one around the corner that looked equally promising. With each barbecue conversation that arose, three new best-in-town names would be dropped. Our check-out list was becoming encyclopedic. We had to work double-time – two lunches a day with a deadline staring us in the face. There were hellish nights of barbecued dreams. We found ourselves telling sick barbecue jokes.

And then it was over. Or rather, we were finished.

The result? There is no best barbecue in town. In that regard our mission was an utter failure. We found lots of great barbecue, but there is little difference between the great ones.

But if our initial intent was a flop, there were, at least, other unexpected and gratifying new discoveries made in the field of barbecue classification. We are now able to identify the Three Great Schools of Barbecue Cuisine and recognize an important local representative of each.

The first is the Blue Collar School. Bob White’s (7324 Gaston near Grand) has been serving barbecue here for 28 years. The core of the clientele is tradespeople who return again and again. The traditions of this school of barbecue are readily apparent: curb service, bass heads mounted open-mouthed on the dining room walls, a Budweiser horses display sign, and middle-aged, beehive-hairdoed waitresses. These ladies are the true professionals – friendly without gushing, efficient without bustling. “You don’t want to sit here in this cold draft, hon. This booth #7 is the coldest spot in the whole place. Move over here to #9.” We ordered sliced beef sandwiches and onion rings. “No, you don’t want those onion rings, hon. They’re the frozen kind. The french frie9 are much better. Have a sliced beef basket.” She knew her stuff. The fries were the best we had on the entire survey – the long, thin, greasy kind with the skin still on them. And great barbecue, of course.

It is held by many that black men are the true connoisseurs in the preparation of barbecue, which brings us to the second of the Three Great Schools: Black Barbecue. Dave, of Dave’s Place (3915 N. Westmoreland), seems to relish that heritage. He putters around his bricked smoke-pit room in a white chefs uniform (complete with tall rumpled chef’s hat) as surely and dapperly as if he were manning the souffles at the Pyramid Room. Though he’s been at it here for 20 years (and for years before that in other locations), old Dave smiles contentedly as he works, treating each hunk of brisket as a new culinary adventure.

Dave’s Place is a big, cinderblock structure built in the courtyard of an old horseshoe-shaped motel. From the outside it looks as lifeless as the vacant motel around it. On the inside it is cavernous but warm with dark green walls and beautiful lacquered pine ceiling. Dave serves a sliced beef sandwich in the black tradition – thick strips of beef (not surgically trimmed of fat) on slices of plain white sandwich bread and lightly covered in a rich and very spicy sauce. But the specialty of the house is ribs (the sign outside doesn’t say “Barbecue,” it says “Barbecue Ribs”). “I drove all. the way across town,” said one customer to the waitress, ” ’cause I was told you had the best ribs in Dallas.” People just don’t drive across town for barbecue. But old Dave makes it worth it.

Walter Harvey, Jr. is a purveyor from the Third Great School – Country Barbecue. Harvey’s (2629 E. Grauwyler in Irving, just off Hwy 183) is located in what appears to have been a squat red barn. In actuality, the building was a squat red church that looks like a barn. Now it is a squat red barbecue museum. “Put your fishin’ pictures here,” says the sign on the bulletin board in the entry way, and many of the devoted clientele have done so. It is the first of many countryesque signs and slogans tacked to the walls inside: “Don’t worry about gettin’ older cuz when ya stop gettin’ older yer dead.” Harvey is both an expert in barbecue with 20 years experience and an expert in whittling with a lifetime of experience. In the corner of the dining room is the “Whittlin’ Pen” and a sign that invites anyone so inclined to sit in the rocking chair and whittle away. Harvey will supply a block of cedar; bring your own knife.

Harvey’s own handiwork is on display in the form of some 1,000 carvings on shelves and in display cases along one side of the room. Most are figurines of country characters (preachers, sheriffs, fishermen), some are free-form structures, and a few are glass-box scenarios such as a four man domino game complete down to the pips on the dominoes. The intricate detail of all the work is especially remarkable considering that Harvey uses no tools other than his pocket knife. He never sells any of his carvings, though he admits to a bad habit of giving them away. If you want to sample either his barbecue or his whittlin’, it has to be for a weekday lunch or early in the evening. The sign on the front door says “Closed Sattidy and Sundy” and Harvey closes up around 7 p.m. on weekdays so he can get home and talk to his horses.



Newcomers



Le Bistro. By virtue of concept and location, this small French restaurant will probably prove quite popular. It is another “restoration restaurant” – an old two-story house in Oak Lawn remodeled to impart an informal elegance, characterized by white linen and hardwood floors. It’s a nice place, especially the porch-alcove lounge; but quarters are a bit cramped with a few too many tables (the upstairs is not currently in use). The menu, too, is well-conceived (four or five dinner entrees and two lunch entrees all changing daily and showing variety and versatility) but is a little unsteady in execution thus far. Some offerings are excellent (for example, the onion soup or the raw mushroom salad); others lack distinction. The young staff is personable and seems extremely anxious to do things right. A limited wine list is augmented by very nice house wines; full bar. All in all, the place shows promise, but it isn’t quite there yet. (3716 Bowser, just off Oak Lawn/528-4181/Mon-Fri11:30 a.m.-2p.m., 6-10 p.m.; Sat & Sun 6-10 p.m. / Reser- vations/MC,BA /$$$)

Shanghai Jimmy’s Chili Rice. A downtown Dallas institution in the 50’s, Shanghai Jimmy has returned at last with his legendary chili rice. The old Shanghai Jimmy’s on Live Oak was, in its heyday, “the only hip place in all of downtown to eat lunch,” in the words of one who remembers, and became a gathering spot for artists, writers, and characters. Shanghai Jimmy is himself a rare character, a well-travelled entrepreneur whose name derives from his many years operating various eateries in China – including the first popcorn machine in Shanghai. After a stopover in Tyler, Texas, to open a hot dog stand, Jimmy began his chili rice phenomenon in Dallas in 1953. Now, after a 15-year absence, he has opened up shop on Lemmon Avenue in an ex-fast food franchise building with an incongruous atmosphere of Chinese travel posters and Muzak – a far cry from the old place. But the chili rice is the same great stuff. It’s just what it sounds like – a tub (8 oz. or 16 oz.) of rice topped with chili and your choice of various extra ingredients: onions, celery, cheddar, or sweet relish. Mix it all together and you’ve got an ideal cold weather meal at a bargain price. Or, as the slogan goes, “Chili Rice Iz Very Nice.” And there’s only one choice of beverage: lemonade. (4108 Lem-mon Ave near Douglas/No phone at press time/Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m., except Sun 5-10 p.m./No reservations /No credit cards/$)



Recipe of the Month



Arroz con Polio

Mario Leal, Chiquita Restaurant



Mario Leal is owner and head chef of Chiquita, one of the first Mexican restaurants in Dallas to serve more than basic Tex-Mex. His menu sparkles with unusual and elaborate Mexican speciality dishes. Arroz con polio is not among them. “I just couldn’t give away the recipes from my menu,” says Mario in the tradition of chefs’ secrets. “So I chose arroz con polio because it is one of the most important of all Mexican dishes. It’s easy to make and not expensive.” There are, of course, many versions of this national staple, but Mario divides them into two simple categories: “dry and semi-soupy.”

“I like mine semi-soupy,” says Mario.

His only other commentary regards the cilantro (“a sort of Mexican parsley with flavor,” he calls it), derived from the leaves of the coriander plant. (If it’s not available at your nearby supermarket, try any of the several Mexican specialty groceries in Dallas.) “I didn’t know what measurement to give on the cilantro,” says Mario, “so let’s just say a small handful.”



1 frying chicken

1 cup rice (long)

3 cloves garlic

1/2 onion

1/2 bell pepper

2 tomatoes, chopped

5 t. chicken stock base

white pepper to taste

cumin salt to taste

chopped cilantro

small can pimientos, chopped

small can English peas

1 lime



Soak rice in warm water for 15 minutes; drain. Dissolve chicken base, white pepper, cumin salt, and cilantro in 5 cups of water. Grind together the garlic, bell pepper and onion. Cut frying chicken into 8-10 serving pieces; salt and squeeze lime juice to taste over chicken pieces.

Melt small amount of shortening in a large skillet, brown the chicken; drain shortening. Melt small amount of shortening in a small skillet; brown the rice; drain shortening. Just before chicken is fully browned, add the onion, garlic, and bell pepper. Add chopped tomatoes; cook them for two minutes. Add the fried rice. Add the broth in which cilantro, white pepper, and cumin have been dissolved. Cover and cook over low heat for 15-20 minutes. A few minutes before the rice is done, add chopped pimientos and peas, mixing them through with the chicken and rice. Continue cooking for another few minutes until rice is fluffy and chicken is done. Serves four.

Spirits Victor Wdowiak



Cognac for the Cognoscenti



Perhaps the easiest of all gifts to give at Christmas is a bottle of liquor. When in doubt, a bottle. But suppose you give your friend a bottle of Scotch, the best Scotch. On Christmas night your friend has guests over for a visit and before you can say December 26, your lovely gift has been swallowed – gone and forgotten.



An alternative: give a bottle of fine cognac. It tickles the recipient’s ego, it compliments the donor’s good taste. And it lasts – for days, weeks, maybe months – and with it the image of the giver. But before you can give a bottle of cognac you must buy it and before you buy it you should know something about it.



It seems that one cannot write even a few words about cognac without repeating, ad nauseam, that worn out cliche: “All brandies are not a cognac, but all cognacs are definitely a brandy.” But alas, nothing else gives a better explanation! “Brandy” is a word describing the product derived from the distilling of wine; “Cognac” is a geographical name – a town near the southwestern Atlantic coast of France – and indicates the brandy of that particular region.

The finest brandies in the world come from around the town of Cognac in the province of Charente. The “discovery” of this brandy was the result of an accident of economic misfortune rather than an invention of one thirsty and creative individual. It seems that in the early 17th century the winegrowers of Charente were confronted by a surplus of wine and the resulting problem of a shortage of storage space. As a solution, someone suggested the distilling process. By boiling away the water and keeping only the “heart of the vine,” the winegrowers hoped for each barrel to do the work of ten. They further reasoned that by mixing the distillate with water in the future, the original wine could be reconstituted. The unexpected result was that the “burned” wine was found to be more desirable to the consumer than the original mediocre wine. And an industry was born.

The superiority of cognac’s taste and its inimitable perfumed bouquet are the results of a few geographical circumstances: a mild maritime climate and the chalky, limey soil of Charente (which contributes to the brandy’s delicate aroma). The wines made here from the Ugni Blanc grape are low in alcohol, high in acidity, and almost undrinkable. But for distillation they are perfect.

All of the prime geographical elements find their ideal combination in a small area south of the town of Cognac known as Grande Champagne (no relation at all to the sparkling wine of the same name).

The young white wine must be distilled before spring (that is, two to five months after it was fermented). The distillation is carried out in the old fashioned pot stills that have remained unchanged for centuries.

Before going into the barrel, raw brandies from different districts are blended according to each firm’s formula. Some aged cognac is even added to guide the awkward youngster through its first steps. During aging, the air penetrates the porous wood, subtly and slowly mellowing the contents; but at the same time, a certain amount of alcohol evaporates into the atmosphere. It was once estimated that the loss due to evaporation was at 3-4% (or over 11 million bottles a year – more than the entire yearly consumption of cognac in the whole of France. I have often suspected that the pigeons fly erratically over the roofs of Cognac).

The aging may last from two years to one hundred years and is not constant, varying with season, temperature, and humidity. After a few years have passed, some of the barrels are tasted, judged, and skillfully blended to produce a particular type and style with continuity of taste and bouquet year after year. The optimum age for cognac is between 25 and 45 years in the oak. Not in the glass – once bottled, the beneficial changes stop forever.

It is utter nonsense to discuss in hushed, reverent tones the Napoleonic brandies – and there is one in every crowd who wants to. Please! There is no such thing. If a bad brandy was bottled in 1812, it will be a disaster today. On the other hand, if you could find a great cognac bottled during Bonaparte’s life it will also be spoiled by now.

There are no vintage cognacs produced anymore. The practice was impossible to control and the results were not always wondrous. There is no law dictating how the quality of cognac should be described on the label. Confusion reigns: some firms use stars (more stars mean older or better), others use initials like V.S.O.P. or X.O. The latest trend is to use an impressive trademark or nickname like Hennessy’s “Bras Armé” or Remy-Martin’s “Louis XIII.” Another entire column could be devoted solely to the various labels. But for a brief Christmas-gift primer, see the box below.

A great cognac should have a striking, lovely aroma without the help of heat, though the inferior cognacs need all the help you can give them, including the infamous brandy wanner. The drinking glass used by cognac makers (who should know best) is a snifter type that easily fits in the palm of your hand. The oversized balloon snifter has its uses too, especially if you are a breeder of Siamese fighting fish.



Though cognac labelling is a bewildering phenomenon, this limited list will serve as a starting point for your cognac shopping. The Hennessy and Courvoisier lines have been selected because they are the two most complete lines of cognac available in Dallas’ better liquor stores. Many other labels, of course, are available. It should be noted that the most expensive cognacs in these and other lines are often very rare and difficult to find; thus, you should order now to allow time for them to be secured and shipped in before Christmas. Prices listed are approximate and will vary somewhat from store to store.

Hennessy: Extra – $87.50

X.O. (extra old) – $35.50

Bras D’or -$17.75 (in Baccarat decanter – $67.50) Bras Armé’- $12.50



Courvoisier:

V.O.C. (very old cognac), available only in Baccarat decanter – $67.50

Extra Vieille (extra old) – $57.50

V.S.O.P. (very special old pale) – $16.50

V.S. (very special) – $12.75

Lafite Correction

In last month’s chart comparing vintages of Lafites, there was an unfortunate typographical error which confused the years 1962-64. Those entries should have been listed as follows:

1962: Blood, ruby shade. Bountiful, typical Lafite bouquet; very slight astringency. Almost sweet first taste on palate; soft, smooth, lingering taste; great today, but still on the upswing.

1964: Old, garnet shade. Rich, true Lafite smell; thin, light body. Pleasant taste, slightly oxidized, mellow; good wine today and for the next two years.

1963: Should not have been listed; a very poor year.

JUST DESSERTS

You would think the French wouldn’t even bother with desserts, much less excel in them. A full course dinner of rich French foods can be stupefying; dessert is unthinkable – and occasionally irresistable. One that is consistently irresistable is the creme caramel at The Enclave, 8325 Walnut Hill. A smooth chilled vanilla custard is turned out on a serving dish with a top layer of thick, caramel syrup and a touch of whipped cream ($1.75). The secret ingredient here is a certain liqueur used in preparing the custard. What is the liqueur? we asked politely. We won’t tell you, they answered wisely.

Dining Directory



Restaurant rating can be a highly arbitrary process. These listings have been compiled not only from our own experiences, but also from evaluations solicited from a cross-section of the city’s epicures. The listings are not meant to be conclusive, but are designed to convey an idea of what to expect. Visits by our critics are made incognito to avoid preferential treatment.



Restaurants, of course, change. These listings will be revised and supplemented periodically to reflect those changes. To that end, opinions and comments from our readers will receive careful consideration.

These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit, then, that we recommend them highly. Where criticism is imposed, it is as a service to our readers, indicating that in a particular area of service or cuisine a restaurant does not fully meet the standards of excellence expected of it. If and when those negative conditions improve, we will happily note the change for the better in the listings. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.



The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general range.

$-Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$-Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$-Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $8 for a complete meal.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities.

Credit card notations: MC-Master Charge BA-BankAmericard / AE-American Express / DC-Diner’s Club / CB-Carte Blanche / “All Credit Cards” indicates that all of the above are accepted.



Continental



Arthur’s. Superb food and a classy but warm ambience make this restaurant always an enjoyable experience. The prime beef, Arthur’s trademark, is still the best around. But there are other impressive options, such as the double lamb chops, calf’s liver, or the veal chops in brown sauce. Tasty salads and an excellent house dressing. The wine list features American vintages only and you’ll find some interesting surprises (try the Krug Zinfandel to see how far American wines have come). The bar is the kind of place you can spend all evening – one of Dallas’ best. Entertainment nightly. (1000 Campbell Centre /361-8833 /Sun-Fri 11:30-2, 6-11; Sat 6-midnight /Reservations /All credit cards $$$)

Bagatelle/Plaza Cafe. Two diverse dining styles side by side, each with great appeal. The Plaza Cafe offers casual but classy European cafe style dining either indoors or outdoors on the terrace. A wide ranging menu of soups, sandwiches, and light entrees, but particularly impressive are the cold buffet, the imaginative cocktail list, and the full page of exotic variations of espressos. The Bagatelle dining room is comfortable as can be with its “French country inn” charm. Service is still unpredictable, but the food now maintains a more consistently high level of quality. The beef tournedos is generally excellent and the roquefort pillow steak is an unusual and dependable selection. Paul Guerrero and group continue to put out good jazz in the bistro. (One Energy Square, Greenville Ave at University /692-8224 /Lunch, daily 11:30-2:30; Dinner Sun-Thur 610, Fri & Sat till 11; Plaza Cafe till midnight weekdays, till 1 a.m. Fri & Sat; Bar till 1:30 a.m. nightly /Reservations /MC, BA,AE/$$$,$$)

Bellmaster. One of the more enjoyable experiences in Dallas dining is lunch at the Bellmas-ter. The mood is one of comfortable elegance; the food – particularly. the seafood – is usually very good (vegetables and trimmings fall short). Basically the same menu holds at night, though the prices are higher and the atmosphere, including live entertainment, becomes a bit slicker. Expertise is especially apparent in the sublime sauces which grace most of the entrees, such as the veal scallops in a rich cream sauce with whiskey. Other fine selections include the whole baby flounder, the Boudreaux shrimp appetizer (in another superb sauce), and a delicious gumbo – truly Creole. For the big appetites, the gargantuan portions of frog legs or double lamb chops make a filling feast. Bar “by membership.” (Carillon Plaza, 13601 Preston Rd /661-9353 /Mon-Fri 11:30 a.m.-midnight;Sat 6:30 p.m.-midnight; bar till 2a.m. Fri & Sat; Sun brunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. /Reservations /MC,BA/$$$)

Blooms. The setting is a little old frame house, redecorated with plants and graphics and refurbished hardwood floors. The menu features three or four light continental entrees that change daily. The food is usually excellent, occasionally disappointing. Entree portions are a bit small but this quality of cuisine is rarely seen at such reasonable prices. The trimmings, notably the fresh vegetables, usually show more care than most restaurants are willing to give them. Especially delicious are the soups – vichyssoise with real cream or the smooth fresh mushroom. A major drawback: the restaurant has no waiting lounge and an ever-increasing clientele, but does not take reservations. It can make for rushed service and a noisy atmosphere during crowded hours. The bar serves call brands only. The wine selection could show more depth. (2917 Fairmount off Cedar Springs 745-9571 / Lunch: Tue-Fri 11:30-2, Sun brunch 12-2; Dinner: Sun, Tue-Thur 610:30; Fri & Sat till 12 /No reservations /MC,BA/$$)

Brennan’e. A famous name with a less-than-glowing local reputation. But it is still one of the better downtown lunchtime options and occasionally will pull itself together sufficiently in the morning to rekindle fond memories of “Breakfast at Brennan’s” in New Orleans, complete with Eggs Sardou, Crepes Suzette, et al. (though the two restaurants are no longer officially affiliated). Dinner is even more of a hit-and-miss proposition. Service is disturbingly erratic, but has improved dramatically lately. Whatever the inconsistencies, the dining room remains comfortable and elegant. (One Main Place /742-1911 /Breakfast & lunch: 7-2:30 weekdays, 8-2:30 weekends; Dinner: 610 weekdays, till 11 weekends /Reservations /All credit cards/$$$)

Chateaubriand. For some reason, this restaurant has an image problem. Maybe it’s the European decadent-posh atmosphere that leads some diners to continue to characterize this restaurant as “overrated.” If you’ve heard that kind of talk, don’t believe it. Almost everything on this widely-varied international menu is likely to be rewarding – not sensational, but certainly satisfying. Servings are more than ample, and at moderate prices. The Greek selections are a pleasant surprise. A fine menu of medium-priced luncheon specials. Live entertainment nightly. (2515 McKinney /741-1223/ Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.- midnight /Reservations/ All credit cards/$$$)

Enclave. A most enticing menu, especially in its variety of interesting offerings from the realm of continental haute cuisine. Most of the hors d’oeuvres are quite good – try the mushrooms stuffed with crabmeat in a luscious cream sauce (or, for a splurge, treat yourself to the elegant beluga caviar). Onion is by far the best of the soups and all of the salads are deliciously dressed. The filet of lemon sole is nicely done, but the meat entrees are dominant items here. The veal cotellette en papillote is a seldom seen bone-in veal chop in brown sauce – an excellent dish. Vegetables and desserts are weak spots. Wine selections in the moderate price range are lacking, but the rest of the selection is very good. An excellent place for lunch. Decor is “traditional fancy” – flocked walls, smoked mirrors, chandeliers – which contributes to a slight air of pretension. (8325 Walnut Hill /363-7487 /Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner, Mon-Sat 6-11, bar till 12 /Reservations /MC,BA,AE,DC/$$$)

Ewald’s. Interesting continental specialties, consistently well-prepared. Though noted for his fine veal dishes, Ewald also serves a pepper steak that may well be the best you’ll find in Dallas. The place is quiet and comfortable, but somehow lacks a sense of sophistication. The small dining room is very plain except for one unusual feature – an observation window through which you can watch the work in the immaculate kitchen. The wine list is less than impressive in scope, but well-priced. (5415 W Lovers Ln /357-1622 /Mon-Fri 6-10:30, Sat 6-11 /MC,BA /Reservations/$$$)

The Grape. One of Dallas’ most popular restaurants, a European-style cafe with a menu as crowded with various cheeses as the tiny one-room establishment is each evening with patrons. The cheese-wine format is supplemented with an array of fine homemade soups (mushroom is the specialty), and a selection of light entrees at lunch and heartier offerings at dinner. This place is almost without exception very busy, creating a nice, boisterous bistro atmosphere but often slow, and even lackadaisical, service. A most interesting selection of wines. (2808 Greenville Ave /823-0133 /Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Tue-Sun, 610:30, open later on Fri & Sat for wine and cheese only /No reservations /No credit cards/$$)

Marcel’s. A real French feeling has made this a long-popular spot with Dallas diners. While some of the gourmet touches have diminished, there are a few features which make Marcel’s always worth a visit. Beef Wellington is known as Marcel’s specialty, but the real standout has always been the coq au vin. Fine cheese tray and dessert cart. One of the best buys in the city is the complete table d’hote dinner for only $6.50, which includes all the hors d’oeuvres you can eat. And if you can’t find the dish you’re looking for on the menu, ask for it anyway; a menu note claims “we will prepare any classical French cuisine upon request” – and they will. Relaxed and quiet dining. (5721 W Lovers Ln/ 358-2103 / Sun-Thur 6-10:30, Fri & Sat till midnight. Closed Mon /Reservations /MC,BA, AE,DC/$$)

Mr. Peppe. There are wide differences of opinion about this dark, cozy little French restaurant: some have long claimed it one of the very finest in the city, others have wondered why. So there are inconsistencies – a few in the kitchen, more so in the service. But devotees return time and again for the friendly intimacy and refreshing informality of the dining room and for those menu items that rarely fail to please: the rack of lamb is wonderful, the pepper steak is locally renowned, and the breads and pastries – owner/chef Albert’s specialties – are almost too good to be true. Very reasonable prices have also contributed to the popularity of this place. (5617 W Lovers Ln /352-5976 /Mon-Sat 6-10/ Reservations MC,BA,AE/$$$)

Old Warsaw. One of the most illustrious names in Dallas dining, Old Warsaw does not always live up to its glowing reputation. But the stately luxuriance and Old World appeal of the place still prevail over the shortcomings, which include appetizers showing little imagination and vegetables showing little care. On the plus side is a menu of entrees that dazzles and seldom disappoints, notably the beautifully prepared fish dishes, the duck Bigarade, and a splendid pepper steak. Service all depends on your assigned captain – sometimes perfect, sometimes far from it. One of the finest wine cellars in the city. (2610 Maple /5280032 /Daily 611, Sat till midnight /Reservations /MC,BA, AE/$$$)

Oz. A lavish monument to haute cuisine with a chef and staff that read like a Who’s Who of fine dining. Though the futuristic, chrome-glass-neon motif clashes strangely with the continental cuisine in the grand old French tradition, the food wins out easily. Unusual and elaborate specialties, particularly the appetizers and entrees, almost never short of brilliant in their preparation. The menu changes with the seasons in the tradition of the world’s finest restaurants. There is no better food to be had in Dallas. Service is far less dependable and at times has infuriated, especially considering the cost of a meal here. An extensive wine list for for both neophytes and connoisseurs. A “membership” restaurant – $50 per year or $5 for a temporary (3 day) membership. (5429 LBJ Freeway /233-5755 /Tue-Sun 7-10:30 p.m., Sun brunch noon-2 p.m. /Reservations only /MC,BA,AE /$$$)

Patry’s. A name that often arises whenever there’s a “best-restaurant-in-town” discussion. In terms of cuisine, the French specialties here certainly rank it as a worthy contender. The real jewels of the menu are the exquisite hors d’oeuvres, highlighted by the stuffed leeks in cream sauce and the rilletes of pork. The most highly regarded entree is the escallope of veal. Desserts are good, not extraordinary. The fact that this is a family-run operation adds a nice personal touch to the service and is one of the reasons Patry’s has established such a loyal clientele. The only real shortcoming here is the loud and bright dining room – a little toning down would greatly enhance the mood in this otherwise excellent restaurant. (2504 McKinney 748-3754 / Tue-Fri 611, Sat till 11:30 /Reservations /MC,BA,AE,DC/$$$)

Pyramid Room. All in all, the finest restaurant in the city. And the most expensive. French specialties of the highest order, truly gourmet. Recommendations are superfluous – you simply can’t go wrong. Impeccable taste and an aura of affluence grace the most elegant dining room in Dallas. And even more rewarding, the place is a paragon of service – usually faultless. The dinner menu is dizzying; the lunch menu is most unusual – limited to soups, salads, and desserts, and a bounty of generously portioned appetizers which leave little need for anything else (though prime rib is always available if you must have an entree.) Always a pleasurable dining experience, day or night. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akard /’748-5454 /Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2, Dinner: Daily 6-midnight /Reservations /All credit cards/$$$)



American

Celebration. Good ol’ homestyle cooking. Choose from the five entrees (very ordinary, nothing fancy; the pot roast is the best). With it they’ll serve you bowls full of vegetables and salad – help yourself, family style, and eat to your heart’s content for $4.50 or less. Great little homemade biscuits and wonderful fruit cobblers (dessert costs extra). A young staff and a loyal clientele – you may find yourself waiting on the front porch on weekends. Very casual. No bar – bring your own wine. (4503 W Lovers Lane /351-5681 /Mon-Sat 5:30-11, Sun till 10:30 /No reservations /MC,BA/$)

Kirby’s. Dallas’ original steakhouse and still one of the most dependable restaurants in town. No frills, no overbearing motif – a refreshing absence of steakhouse gimmickry. Excellent steaks – the filet and rib eye are particularly good values. Mr. Kirby is still in charge and his staff is efficient, as always. (3715 Greenville 823-7296 / Tue-Sun 5:3010:30, Fri & Sat till midnight /Reservations /All credit cards/$$)

Southern Kitchen. Feast in the style and tradition of the Old South. And a feast it is – the “Deluxe” dinner is an assortment of fried chicken, smoked chicken, fried shrimp, fried trout, and deviled crab, plus shrimp cocktail, crabmeat appetizers, and many other trimmings, all for $7.95. Additional servings of everything at no extra cost. None of the preparations (except for the luscious homemade cinnamon rolls) could be called extraordinary, but the magnitude of the meal is impressive enough. The two locations, East and West, have identical menus, but the West has a more handsomely appointed plantation-style atmosphere, including waiters and waitresses in period costume. (West, 2356 W. Northwest Hwy, 352-5220 /East, 6615 E. Northwest Hwy, 368-1658 /Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30 p.m., Sun 5-10 p.m. Reservations for 5 or more /All credit cards/$$)



Italian



Campisi’s Egyptian Restaurant. Don’t expect to find rare Egyptian delicacies (whatever those might be) – the only thing Egyptian about the place is the curious name. What you will find is some of the best pizza in Dallas and crowds of people who know it. Always a packed house on weekends and very popular for late night, after-the-movies snacks – try the basket of crab claws. The rest of the Italian menu is average fare. (5610 E. Mockingbird /8270355 Mon-Fri. 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat till 1 a.m., Sun noon-midnight /No credit cards. Checks accepted /Reservations for 6 or more/$)

Ianni’s. Two menus and the first one – all appetizers – steals the show. An incredible array of Italian tidbits from baked oysters Mosca to roasted peppers – and they’re all good. Since you can’t eat them all, try for starters the broiled homemade Italian sausage (there’s no better in town) or the Spiedini (a miniature veal roll stuffed with crabmeat, cheeses, and herbs). But save room for the big menu. The pasta dishes are average, but the specialty dishes are impressive, the best being the veal scallopini Ianni with prosciutto and mushrooms in an Italian brown sauce and the chicken cacciatore with fresh mushrooms. Top it all off with their standout dessert specialty, the Profiterole de Gelati Cioccolato, an eclair filled with Italian ice cream and topped with fudge sauce. The atmosphere, unfortunately, is noisy. (2330 Greenville/826-6161 /Daily 5:30-11:30p.m. Reservations /MC,AE/$$)

II Sorrento. Classical Italian cuisine of very high quality, from the most ambitious Italian menu in town. You can hardly miss, but especially good are the dishes with homemade flat pasta, including the fettucine and the tagliatelle, both prepared at your table. The service is highly attentive. Lavish Italian street scene decor, complete with strolling musicians. Very popular, so be sure to make reservations or you will almost surely be shuttled into the bar for a wait. (8616 Turtle Creek /352-8759 /Daily 5:30-11, Sat till midnight /Reservations/ All credit cards /$$$)

Italian Pavilion. A “penthouse” restaurant atop the Le Baron Hotel. A subdued, almost informal, elegance creates a most pleasant setting. The Northern Italian cuisine is equally impressive, distinguished by homemade pasta cut and cooked to order. The veal dishes are among the best in town, most notably the unusual scallopini Gaetano with provolone and prosciutto or the Speciale di Polio e Vitello, a veal and chicken dish cooked in egg batter and served with lemon cream sauce. The saltimbocca is also a worthy selection. Still a relatively new restaurant, the service is uneven at best – expect a long stay. Extensive Italian wine list. (Le Baron Hotel, 1055 Regal Row at Carpenter Frwy /634-8550 /Mon-Sat 611 p.m. /Reservations /All credit cards/ $$$)

Mario’s. Elegant and refined, to be sure, and, on a good night, capable of Italian specialties as interesting and rewarding as any of the best dishes in the city. But consistency in both food and service has faltered lately. Recommended: saltimbocca alla Romana, manicotti, fried zucchini. The veal with artichoke hearts and mushrooms is famous and deservedly so. And no matter what precedes it, the spumoni for dessert is always a delight. (135 Turtle Creek Village/521-1135/Daily 610:45, Sat till 11:45/ Reservations /All credit cards $$$)

Pietro’s. From the family-operated kitchen, Pie-tro and his Sicilian relatives turn out some great southern Italian home-style cooking. The specialty pasta dishes are the highlights here: the manicotti and cannelloni take top honors but the fettucine alla Romana and the lasagne with meat sauce are also excellent. If you must have spaghetti, the marinara is as good as any in town. So is the pizza. And the garlic bread, freshly baked on the premises, is superb. All very reasonably priced, right down to the giant frosted schooners of beer for 75¢. Or if you’d rather stay in the spirit of things, try the Seges-ta, a Sicilian wine. Often crowded so we suggest you visit on a weekday. (5722 Richmond, off Greenville /824-9403 /Tue-Thur 5-10:30, Fri & Sat till 11:30 /No reservations /No credit cards $$)

Trattoria de Meo. A nice change of pace: simple, uncomplicated Italian specialties such as cannelloni and manicotti made with crepes rather than pasta. The end result is relief from the usual post-Italian bloated feeling. Chef’s specialties include an excellent broiled chicken with lemon butter sauce and an unusual veal dish. Essentially a husband and wife operation with family friendliness and occasional ups and downs if things get too busy. A casual place (handwritten menu) with a loyal clientele. Limited wine list, but they have recently added a full bar. (5601 W Lovers Ln /3500238 /Mon-Sat 6-10 /Reservations /MC,BA/$$)



Mexican



Chiquita.An alternative to the Mexican “cafe circuit,” Chiquita might be described as “Mexican haute.” It has maintained a loyal clientele with a menu of unusual dishes. Order from the right side of the menu and learn a delicious lesson about real Mexican food – such as the pes-cado bianco marinero (rolled whitefish with a spinach stuffing and a shrimp and oyster sauce) or carnitas tampiquenas (broiled pork strips). The Tex-Mex preparations here are no better than average. Simple, comfortable, low-key atmosphere. (3325 Oak Lawn /521 0721 /Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. /No reservations /MC, BA,AE/$$)

Herrera Cafe. A recent “remodeling” (new paint job, new floor, new menu) hasn’t changed the atmosphere: the decor is still classic adobe hole-in-the-wall; the menu changes simply offer more of the best home-cooked Tex-Mex in town. Significant additions are a scrumptious chicken enchilada with Spanish sauce, very unusual green enchiladas, and chiles rellenos (supposedly available on Thursdays only, but occasionally by special request). And the fresh hot flour tortillas are still a rare treat. Bring your own beer. (3902 Maple /526-9427 /Weekdays 9-8, weekends till 10; closed Tue /No reservations No credit cards/$)

El Taxco. There may not be a better dining value in Dallas – dependable Tex-Mex food at amazingly low prices. Their style is subtle and not so highly seasoned as most, making it an especially good spot for wary and hesitant newcomers to Mexican cuisine. The chicken enchiladas are particularly noteworthy – an unusual and tasty chicken filling with peas and tomatoes. And the best refried beans in town. Friendly, casual, and comfortable. Beer only. (2126 N St. Paul /7420747 /Wed-Sun 10:30-9, Mon 10:30-8, closed Tue /No reservations /MC/$)

Raphael’s. A recent arrival on the scene, Raphael’s has everything going for it: excellent Mexican cuisine, a lovely setting, and a friendly and diligent staff. The location is the original home of Arthur’s on McKinney, a cozy place of old steakhouse-style wood beam interior with a touch of Mexico in the flowers and paintings. The standard Mexican fare (enchiladas, etc.) is far above average, including sensational chicken/sour cream enchiladas, crispy, light, puff-style tacos and guacamole that is unmatched anywhere in town. But the specialties are the thing here – delicious chiles rellenos and a wonderful shrimp enchilada preparation. Also chicken mole, flautas, alambres (Mexican ka-bob), and more. Prices are on the high side (though not unreasonable), but the luncheon specials are much less expensive. Full bar, Mexican beers. Almaden wines only. (3701 McKinney /521-9640 /Mon-Sat 11:30 a.m.-ll p.m. / Reservations /MC,BA,AE/$$)



Oriental



Peking Palace. The Mandarin and Szechuan specialties rank with the best in town, with perhaps the most extensive variety of any Chinese menu in the city. Try the fried dumplings for openers. The spiced shredded beef and the Nanking and Seshun pork dishes are all excellent. The chef’s special shrimp, not listed on the menu but available on request, is delicious, but very spicy. More expensive than most Oriental cuisine and definitely better at dinner than lunch. The Wan-Fu wine is a must. (4119 LomoAlto /5221830 /Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon-Thur 5-11, Sat & Sun till midnight, Sun noon-10 p.m. /Reservations on weekends /MC,BA,AE/$$)

Royal Tokyo. It is fortunate that with so few restaurants in Dallas serving Japanese cuisine, Royal Tokyo does it so well. Don’t be misled by the exterior motif facade that characterizes the rash of new restaurants in this area, often offering more on the outside than on the inside. There is authenticity on the inside here in the form of excellent Japanese specialties. Recommended: Ton Katsu (batter fried pork strips), Kobe beef, shrimp tempura, shabu-shabu, and prime rib teriyaki. Delightful green tea, saki (served warm), plus Japanese beer and whiskey. A quiet, subdued atmosphere. Service varies – at times slow, but always gracious. (7525 Greenville Ave /368-3304/Daily, 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 5:30-11:30 p.m. /MC,BA,AE/$$)

South Chins. On a good night, this modest restaurant serves some of the best Mandarin cuisine from one of the more exotic menus in town. Fine “package” dinners for two, four or six persons. For the more adventurous, a wide selection of a la carte dishes: the best Moo Shi pork in town, any of the items with black bean sauce, and all of the chicken dishes. For lighter eating, the soups and appetizers are also superb, especially the bean curd and pork soup, the sizzling rice soup, shrimp toast and very unusual steamed dumplings. The seafood entrees don’t measure up to the others on the menu. Cordial service. (5424 E Mockingbird 826-5420 / Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Daily 511, Fri & Sat till 12, Sun till 11 /Reservations /MC,BA,AE/$$)



Specialties



Brasserie. A coffee shop extraordinaire, the best spot in Dallas for late night indulgence. They’re open 24 hours a day with four different menus each taking a shift. The 11 p.m.-7 a.m. menu is the eye-catcher, with such unusual pre-dawn delicacies as smoked salmon and eggs, along with a full selection of sandwiches, salads, and hamburgers. For a sweet snack, the famous Fairmont pastries and desserts are unbeatable. The dinner menu spotlights a particular foreign cuisine and changes periodically; breakfast is served at all hours. The service, unfortunately, is often downright surly. Full bar. (Fairmont

Hotel, Ross & Akard / 748-5454 /24 hours, seven days a week /MC,BA,AE,DC/$$)

Cafe Sevilla. Suddenly Spanish restaurants are flourishing in Dallas. The Cafe Sevilla is certainly the most imaginative of the lot. Set in a small, old, comer storefront location, the bare floors, simple furnishings, high ceilings, and candlelight against rough brick walls lend Old World charm. The large front window on the McKinney Avenue sidewalk even offers a bit of the cafe feeling, especially for an early evening drink. The menu is limited, perhaps too limited, to four entrees: paella (heavily laden with shrimp and clams, plus chicken and sausage); a shrimp platter that is actually more of a seafood assortment; fried squid; and a sirloin broiled in sherry. Soups, salads, and desserts change periodically, but first visits found a rich Andalusian lamb soup, excellent gazpacho, and a well-selected fresh fruit plate. Wines are Spanish only but of fairly good variety; San Miguel beer; full bar. A very young and gracious staff. (3236 McKinney at Hall /526-2472 Daily 610 p.m., bar till midnight, till 1 a.m. Sat /Reservations /MC/$$)

Health Nut. Be good to your system and to your taste buds at Dallas’ most appealing health food restaurant. Most all preparations are full of flavor and should correct any misconceptions you might have of “health foods” as bland. The fresh fruit salads are always a treat, as are the smoothies. Their wheatberry bread is wonderful – try it as a homemade cream cheese or avocado sandwich. Servings are less than bountiful, so don’t visit if ravenous. Casual and comfortable and, naturally, no smoking. A second location at 4356 Lovers Lane is anticipated to open in October. (4220 Oak Lawn /526-4050/ Daily 11-9 / No reservations /No credit cards/$)

India House. Indian and southern Asian specialties, all touched with great authenticity – as one might expect from the two chefs direct from India. At last Dallas has a place to enjoy fine curry dishes and, even more rewarding, some unusual specialties. The standout is the chicken Tandoori, a marinated delight and one of the most attractive dishes you’re ever likely to see – said to be the royal dish of India. For a first visit, the Shahi house dinner offers a bountiful and varied sampling of Indian cuisine ($17.95 for two). If you order a la carte (the prices are amazingly low) be sure to try some of the hors d’oeuvres (all excellent) and the wonderful condiments – especially the achar, either mango or lime. As might be expected in this shopping center location, the decor is contrived motif, but not at all offensive. The staff is most helpful in guiding you through the extensive menu. The lunch specials – at $1.85 – are a bargain. (5422 E. Mockingbird /823-1000/ Lunch: daily 11:30-2:00, Dinner: Sun-Thur 5-10, Fri & Sat till 11 /Reservations /MC,BA, AE/$$)

Jamil’s Steak House. Lebanese hors d’oeuvres with all dinners are the added attraction here, good and filling. Included, among other tidbits, are a Tabouli salad, cabbage rolls, and a basket of barbecue ribs and bologna. Steaks are good big cuts at bargain prices (such as an almost unheard of 24 oz. T-bone, $7.95). (2901 W. Northwest Hwy /352-9071 /Lunch: Mon-Fri 11-2, Dinner: daily 5-midnight / Reservations / All credit cards/$$)

Khalil’s Beirut. The Lebanese cuisine is generally good at what is certainly one of very few places in Dallas to serve creditable Middle Eastern food. Recommended are the lamb ka-bob and the kibbee tartar (though the waiter may try to scare you away from it – it’s raw lamb). Unfortunately the place has shown inconsistencies, especially in service, and the evening offerings are far better than those at lunch. But when everything is right, it’s a nice place for a change of pace. (31 Highland Park Village, Preston Rd at Mockingbird/526-5600/ Mon-Sat 11-10 Reservations for 6 or more/ MC/$$)

Maison Orleans. The fare is French and Creole, the flair is New Orleans. The French specialties should be avoided; opt for the Cajun touch, particularly the shrimp “Maison” (barbecue style) and the crawfish. Also gumbo and red beans & rice. Sunday special: all the shrimp and crawfish you can eat for $4.75. A bright and cheerful dining room with overhead fans and white latticework. (7236 Greenville Ave / 363-2992 / Mon-Fri 11:3011, Fri till 2, Sat 5:30-2, Sun 4-10:30 /Reservations /MC,BA, AE/$$)

Oporto Oyster Bar. Dallas’ best seafood restaurant (but still a long way from Boston). The things they do well they do very well; others can be a letdown – so be selective. Sure to please are the Boston schrod, broiled red snapper, whole baby flounder, and broiled Maine lobster. For bivalve lovers, the oysters on the half shell are succulent and delicious. Service varies widely, the atmosphere is casual and comfortable. The bartending is among the best in town, boasting some very impressive after-dinner drinks. Order wine by the bottle – the house carafes are not reccommendable. (2929 N. Henderson / 826-2553/Daily, 11 a.m.-11p.m. No reservations /MC,BA,AE/$$)

Ports of Spain. The cuisine is Spanish, so paella, of course, heads the menu, and it’s the real thing – loaded with lobster, shrimp, clam, cho-rizo, chicken, ham, and other goodies. Other specialties include two chicken dishes and a couple of assorted seafood plates; all are prepared in authentic Spanish style, but are notably lacking in Iberian flair and exoticism. And they’re expensive. Whatever you order, be sure to begin with a bowl of thick black bean soup – a standout item. Lunch is a strange holdover from the delicatessen which previously inhabited this location (same owner) and offers both Kosher and Spanish foods (try a delicious “tortilla” – the traditional Spanish omelette). The dining room is elegant, the bar (“membership”) has live entertainment. (Carillon Plaza, 13601 Preston Rd /661-5956 /Daily 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 6 p.m. – midnight / Reservations /MC, BA, DC/$$$)

Trader Vic’s. There are many Trader Vic’s around the country – some are good, some are not-so-good. This one has been dependably good for a long time. A voluminous menu of Polynesian and other generally Oriental delights. Excellent hors d’oeuvres (the “Cosmo Tidbit” platter will give you a good sampling or try the fried chicken livers) and the limestone lettuce salad is a must. The best entree choices are the pressed almond duck, the lobster Cantonese, or the Indonesian lamb roast. Exotic dessert drinks are their specialty. (Hilton Inn, 5600 N Cen Expwy /827-3620 /Daily, 5-12/ Reservations /All credit cards/$$)

Mainly For Lunch

Calluaud Traiteur. Everything at this small (and consequently jammed) cafe is superb, and no wonder: the chef, Guy Calluaud, is a former Pyramid Room chef. If you can wait out the lines at lunch, treat yourself to one of their individual quiches, a salad (the cucumber salad is particularly fine), and one of the luscious little fruit tarts. Or have the luncheon special – large portions at low prices. Or the pate, or the ratatouille, or … well, anything. They also do take-out orders and catering for parties. The house wines are rather ordinary. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh /748-7459 /Mon-Sat 8 a.m.-5 p.m. No reservations /No credit cards/$$)

The Chimney. The “new” Chimney – now a full-fledged continental restaurant – has maintained its reputation for excellence as a luncheon spot with fine light entrees and outstanding desserts. Less successful is the newer dinner menu, which offers traditional continental specialties. The “Seafood Imperial” is a wonderful appetizer of shrimp and crabmeat. Two intimate dining rooms in classic early American decor – hardwood floors, brass and pewter chandeliers. (Willowcreek, 9729 N Cen Expwy at Walnut Hill /369-6466 /Tues-Sat 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 6-12 p.m. /Reservations MC,BA,AE, personal checks/$$$)

Ciro’s. Elaborate sandwiches are the featured attraction here (example: the El Nopal – ham, cheese, picquante mayonnaise, onion and tomato on a “Mexican bun,” $2.95). The setting is an airy, spacious, old comer store at McKin-ney and Hall; the atmosphere is old timey without being heavy nostalgia. There are five major sandwich choices, but also available are such items as a fresh fruit plate with finger sandwiches, an avocado sandwich, and Sicilian-style pizza. Wine and beer (including several imports) are served, but the drinking highlight is the hard apple cider – the real stuff with a stiff kick. (3237 McKinney at Hall /745-9464 Tue 11 a.m.-7 p.m., Wed-Sat 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun 17 p.m., closed Mon /No reservation!) MC/$$)

Collection Plate. In a relatively remote spot amidst the hubbub of Greenville Avenue, this friendly little place is serving some of the best sandwiches in town. For example, the Super Strombolli: ground beef, red sauce, mozzarella cheese, olives, green pepper, and mushrooms, served hot out of the oven on French bread ($2). Also a vegetarian sandwich, roast beef and provolone, salami and anchovies, and others – all big and delicious. If you catch the chef when he’s not too busy and he’s in one of his creative moods, he might make you one of his “custom” sandwiches – you name it, he’ll put it on. Dinner features a single different entree each night, plus sandwiches, salads, and soups. Beer and wine. (6754 Greenville south of Park Ln 361-8753 / Mon-Sat 10 a.m.-10 p.m. /No reservations /MC/$)

La Creperie. A delightful courtyard patio, made very French by the traditional Cinzano table umbrellas and heavily-accented waiters, contributes to the lunchtime popularity here. The popularity contributes to the slow service – but on a nice day you won’t mind. You can while away some of the wait by reading through the lengthy list of some 50 varieties of crepes stuffed with most everything imaginable. Omelettes and dessert crepes are also served. (Quadrangle; 2800 Routh /6510506 Mon-Wed 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. / Reservations recommended /MC,BA,DC/ $$)

Gallery Buffet. An extra added attraction for visitors to the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts. For a mere $2.50, relax with a delicious light lunch from the expertly catered buffet table. Hearty soups, salads, homemade bread loaves, and desserts. Wine extra. (DMFA, Fair Park 421-4187 Tue-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. / No reservations No credit cards $)

Kuby’s Sausage House. The sausages are a house product of this deli-restaurant and they’re excellent- served with either hot potato salad or sauerkraut, and the choice between the two is a maddening one. Sandwiches – try their pastrami – are thick and delicious, and the soup of the day is a meal in itself. Such heftig German food needs beer, but alas, Kuby’s is in a dry area. Excellent pastries make this a nice place for a coffee break, but make it a mid-morning one: the noon crowds decimate the desserts. Open at 8:30 a.m. for breakfast pastries and coffee: lunch service begins at 11. (6601 Snider Plaza /363-2231 /Mon-Sat 8:30-2:30, sandwiches till 5:30 /No reservations MC/$)

The Lunch Basket Tearoom. A bright and very cozy little spot on the second floor of The Craft Compound in Snider Plaza, featuring homemade-style lunch-in a basket. A set menu – no options – changes daily, offering soup, a salad, sandwich, dessert, and drink for $2. The specialties are the unusual salads (such as tuna with orange) and the desserts (especially the light flaky cream puffs). The soups are also out-of-the-ordinary, notably the fresh spinach. Foreign blend coffees and teas; no bar. Homemade breads are also available to take home. A delightful midday stop while browsing the shops and galleries of the Compound. (6617 Snider Plaza, Suite 200 369-3241 Tues-Sat 11-3 /No reservations No credit cards/$)

Magic Pan. It’s a difficult choice when faced with the impressive selection of crepes – some ordinary, some unusual, and all delicious. Be sure to save room for the outstanding dessert crepes. A very popular place: if you want to avoid the shopping crowds, visit for a Sunday brunch. Also nice for late night, after-theater snacking. Note: there is a $1.50 per person minimum, so don’t stop in for a cup of coffee. (NorthPark – New Mall /692-7574 /Sun-Thur 11 midnight, Fri & Sat till 1 /No reservations

Upper Crust. A bustling lunch spot in the Olla Podrida. The blackboard menu (changing daily) boasts old-fashioned homestyle specialties like chicken & dumplings and red beans & rice. They do wonderful things with buttermilk, both in their special salad dressing and in the buttermilk pie. Also sandwiches and homemade soups. A courtyard/patio feeling. Dinner served Thursday evenings only. No bar. (Olla Podrida, 12215 Coit Rd /661-5738 /Lunch: Mon-Sat 11-3, Dinner: Thur only, 5:30-8:30 No reservations /No credit cards/$)

Zodiac Room. Luncheon delicacies as wonderful to look at as they are to eat. The stunning buffet table is highlighted by the salads (try the fresh fruit with their famous poppy seed dressing) and the desserts (try any of them – you can’t miss). Always crowded, so plan for a lengthy lunch. A dinner buffet is served every Thursday. Luscious Danish pastries are served in the morning between 9:30 & 10:30. Wine and beer. (Neiman-Marcus, downtown /741-6911 Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Thur dinner, 5-7 p.m. /Reservations /Neiman-Marcus charge card only, checks accepted $$)

Bar/Restaurants

The Black-Eyed Pea. Another high ceilinged, wood-beamed, hanging-basketed bar, but a comfortable and crowded drinking spot. Food-wise, their “specialty” is chicken fried steak – sometimes great, sometimes lousy. And, of course, black-eyed peas. Also big burgers and unusual sandwiches (including one made with guacamole, cream cheese, and shrimp). The loud, loud music can be irritating during a meal. These is now a Black-Eyed Pea Too in Snider Plaza, a smaller, plainer version of the first that seems to do better with the food (similar menu) than the original. But it’s dry (3857 Cedar Springs near Oak Lawn /526-9478 Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sun 5 p.m.-2 a.m. /No reservations /MC,AE/ Too, 6912 Snider Plaza 369-5011 Daily 11 a.m.-9 p.m. except Sun noon-9 /No reservations /No credit cards, checks accepted/$)

Carlos and Pepe. A real eyefull as a result of its pre-assembling in the Bavaria film studios of Munich (replete with furnishings and miscellaneous props used in such films as Cabaret). Evocative of the noted Acapulco disco-restaurant, Carlos and Charlie. If you like the cluttered look, this place has it. The menu (“continental” if it can be categorized – and often not well executed) is made more appealing by such oddities as zucchini fritters, creamed tortillas, and apple fritters fondue. Some tables surround the dance floor and are noisy; others are a bit removed and more comfortable. (3049 W. Northwest Hwy /358-4357 /opens 4:30 p.m., Dinner served 6:30-midnight, disco till 2 a.m. Reservations /MC,BA,AE,DC/$$$)

Chili’s. “Bar and Grill” says the sign outside, but any images of a greasy spoon are erased immediately upon entering. A handsome and comfortable place, done in wood-beam-and-tropi-cal-plants motif, specializing in bar munchies – burgers, tacos, and (of course) chili. The chili is good and hot, the burgers are big (half-pound) but nothing sensational. Their best treat is the special soft taco, a flour tortilla folded around chili, cheese, onion and lettuce. Bar features frozen margaritas and homemade sangria. (Greenville Ave at Meadow Rd /361-4371 /Daily, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. /No reservations MC,BA,AE/$)

Daddy’s Money. Now in two locations. The original, in Old Town, is a busy place with a lively bar – where you’ll probably spend some waiting time. The new location, North Dallas, is more relaxed, with pleasant garden alcove settings. Menus are similar – something for everybody, steak/chicken/seafood/etc. Best bet is the charcoaled rack of lamb. Both offer a Sunday brunch featuring fresh fruit daiquiris and some interesting omelettes. Service is usually overly effervescent. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville, 363-3686 /North Dallas, 4855 LBJ at Inwood, 387-3800 /Mon-Thur 11-11, Fri & Sat 11-12:30, Sun 10-1, Drinks till 2 a.m. daily No reservations / MC,BA,AE,DC/$$)

The Filling Station. Maybe the ultimate in motif dining: this old Greenville Avenue gas station has been transformed into a bar/restaurant complete with antique gas pumps out front, vintage automobile and roadside paraphernalia on the walls and under glass on the tables, old gas pumps on the bar that dispense tap beer, and, hovering over the dining room, a revolving red neon Mobil flying horse. Motif carries over to the menu which offers the “Ethyl Hamburger” (3/4 lb., $2.25), the “Regular hamburger” (1/2 lb., $1.50) and the “Low Lead” (3/4 lb. patty and cottage cheese, $2.25). Also nachos – including unusual beef nachos made with ground beef chili – and very good onion rings. Live music (small groups) most evenings beginning at 10. (6862 Greenville Ave near Park Lane /691-4488/Daily 11 a.m.-2 p.m. No reservations / MC,BA,AE/$)

Goldfinger. While Dallas still waits for a truly fine Greek restaurant, Goldfinger fills the void with more success than others. Much of the success is due to the festive nightclub atmosphere featuring live musical entertainment – usually of very high quality – and belly dancing. A standard menu ranges from a mediocre stifado to a fairly tasty moussaka (though it suffers from the common local affliction of beef in place of lamb). The house specialty – a combination of souvlaki and large shrimp – is your best bet, and the dolmas are the best around. Very crowded on weekends. (2905 Cridelle 350-6983 / Daily 11:30-2, 6-11; Fri & Sat till midnight /Reservations on weekends /MC,BA, AE/$$)

Grand Hotel. An odd amalgamation of styles creates a most unusual setting in this redecorated version of a spacious old Oak Lawn house – a little chrome moderne here, a little art deco there, a little fireplace homeyness here. The menu is equally schizophrenic: Lebanese appetizers (babaganough, homus), oysters, cold avocado soup, zucchini salad, red beans and rice, shrimp marinade, brisket of beef, or a strange thing called Chicken Volcano. Best bets are a super Italian sausage sandwich and a Go-diva chocolate pie in a walnut crust. Imported beer; wines from Greece, Hungary, and Argentina as well as more familiar places; full bar. Unfortunately the schizophrenia carries over to the quality of the kitchen preparations and the service, which have been highly unpredictable so far. (3205 Oak Lawn / 521-8520 /Daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m. /No reservations /No credit cards /$$)

Greek Key. Greek belly dancers entertain in an atmosphere that can get downright festive at patron participation time. Join in with the staff in traditional Greek folk dancing to live music. The menu includes the usual Greek specialties, steak, and lobster and is best sampled during the Sunday Family Feast (noon-3 p.m.) – all you can eat for $3.95, $2.95 for children. (2920 Northwest Hwy /358-5177 /Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2 a.m., Sun 4 p.m.-2 a.m. /All credit cards / Reservations /$$)

Ichabod’s. A slick steak & seafood bar on the Greenville Avenue singles strip. Spawned by a successful Louisiana operation, Ichabod’s has few unique or original touches, but what they do, they do with polish and proficiency. Within the fairly predictable menu (salads, soups, steaks, prime rib, shellfish) are a couple of imaginative selections: the steak Oscar is a double filet topped with crabmeat, hollandaise, and mushrooms; and a ratatouille casserole is offered as a side dish – a good idea. Casual and comfortable; decorated with etched glass and plants. A very popular drinking and mingling bar. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville /691-2646 Daily 11:30 a.m. -midnight, bar till 2; Sun brunch 11:30-3 /No reservations /MC,BA,AE,CB/$$)

J. Mulkey’s. A delightful beer garden and restaurant, very casual in ranch-rustic style, serving sandwiches and home-style hot plate lunches and dinners, $1.95-$2.25. The blackboard menu changes daily. Live entertainment every evening except Monday, usually a solo musician or small group. (3136 Routh St. at Woodrow (Chel sea Square) /748-3500 /Tue-Sun 8 a.m.-10 p.m., except Sat till 1 a.m.; A/on 8 a.m.-5 p.m. /No reservations /No credit cards /$)

Mariano’s. A lively mariachi band, fantastic frozen margaritas, and lavish Mexican courtyard decor contribute to the fiesta feeling that has made this a popular place. Recent expansion has taken the dancing out of the aisles and on to a real dance floor. A full menu of Tex-Mex standards – good, but not great, and a little expensive. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville /691-3888 /Sun-Thur 11-11:30, bar till 1; Fri & Sat 1111, bar till 2 /No reservations /MC,BA, AE/$$)

The Pawn Shop. A beautifully designed and decorated bar restaurant with balcony drinking parlors, a network of overhead fans, and a scattering of antiques and plants. The menu was recently changed and expanded and now offers variations of steak, shrimp, teriyaki chicken, and barbecued pork chops. Very popular happy hour from 4-7 every day. (5601 Greenville across from Old Town /691-2411 /Daily 11:30 a.m.-1:30 a.m. /Reservations /MC,BA,AE/$$)

Railhead. The most consistent performer in Dallas’ crowded steak-and-salad-bar scene – and certainly the most popular, though the long waits for tables have been eased by a new reservations policy. The steak offerings are standard but the prime rib is among the best in town and the salad bar offers more creative possibilities than most. Heavy on the railroad theme decor (including an occasional blast from a train whistle) and service is of the super-smile variety. Spacious lounge with live entertainment. (6919 Twin Hills Ave at Park Lane /369-8700 /Lunch daily 11-2; Dinner; Mon-Thur 5:3011, Fri & Sat till 11:30, Sun 510:30; bar till 2 a.m. nightly /Reservations (on weekends before 7 p.m. and after 10:30 p.m. only) /MC, BA,AE/$$$)

Stoneleigh P. A pharmacy from 1926-1973, fur-niture and fixtures have been restored to recreate an old time pharmacy setting, with relaxed and congenial atmosphere. The unusual menu includes provolone cheeseburgers on pumpernickel buns and grilled, marinated chicken breasts, plus soup, salad, and sandwiches – all very good. A comprehensive magazine rack with browsing encouraged and a fabulous juke box ranging from Bach to Stones. (2926 Maple 741 0824 11 a.m.-2 a.m. seven days a week No reservations ’ No credit cards/$)

Strictly Ta-Bu. A long-standing Dallas bar (formerly The Ta-Bu Room), graciously revived by new ownership. The original 1948 decor has been essentially retained with a sort of plain, unaffected, classy-tacky effect. A solid kitchen offers terrific pizza, great burgers, steaks, seafood; served till 11, til midnight on weekends. A very mixed clientele (young and old, gay and straight) complemented by a mixed bag jukebox (from Louis Armstrong to Lou Reed). Live jazz bands perform most nights. (4111 Lomo Alto /526-9325 /Sun-Thur 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m., Fri & Sat till 2 /No reservations /MC,BA /$$)

T.G.I. Friday’s. A lively and popular old standby on the bar/restaurant scene. A menu of steaks, burgers, shrimp, chicken – nothing extravagant, but all in very hefty portions at reasonable prices; in fact, one of the better steak values in town. The chef salad is simply gigantic. Special features include a half-price drink celebration beginning at midnight on Thursday nights and a champagne brunch ($1.95, all you can drink) on Sundays. Casual atmosphere of striped tablecloth/tiffany lamp motif. No longer strictly a singles bar – the clientele is much more of a mix now. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville 363-5353 Daily 11 a.m.-2 a.m. /No reserva-tions /MC,MA,AE/$$)

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