D DINING DIRECTORY

Restaurant rating can be a highly arbitrary process. These listings have been compiled not only from our own experiences, but also from evaluations solicited from a cross-section of the city’s epicureans. The listings are not meant to be conclusive, but are designed to convey an idea of what to expect.

These restaurants represent the best in Dallas dining. It is implicit, then, that we recommend them highly. Where criticism is imposed, it is as a service to our readers, indicating that in a particular area of service or cuisine a restaurant does not fully meet the standards of excellence expected of it. If and when those negative conditions improve, we will happily note the change for the better in the listings. Inclusion in this directory has nothing whatever to do with paid advertising.

The pricing symbols used are categorical, not precise. They are intended only to indicate a general range.

$ – Generally inexpensive. Usually indicates a good value.

$$ – Middle ground and very general. Usually indicates a menu with a wide price range.

$$$ – Expensive. You can expect to spend more than $8 for a complete meal.

Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants have full bar facilities. Credit card notations: MC – Master Charge/ BA – BankAmericard/ AE – American Express/ DC – Diner’s Club/ CB – Carte Blanche/ “All Credit Cards” indicates that all the above are accepted.

Alexander’s A Touch of Europe. New ownership has brought in a new menu, augmenting the Russian and French specialties with an emphasis on excellence in seafood. New additions include baked red snapper, stuffed flounder, and sau-teed brook trout. The wine cellar, already expansive, has been further enlarged. Unique fast-service early dinner specials from 5:30-7, designed to speed you on your way to a night on the town. Intimate dining. (3914 Cedar Springs/ 522-9440/ Mon.-Sat. 6-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

Arthur’s. The once-unbeatable Arthur’s has slipped a bit since moving to its lovely chic new setting. Especially the service, which is now erratic at best (and haughty at its worst). But the food still can be splendid, including the prime beef specialties, a great spinach salad and, surprisingly enough, delicious calves liver. The homemade French bread may be the best in town. A unique feature is the wine list: American wines only with some intriguing selections, though more half bottles would be nice. A fabulous bar with entertainment nightly. (WOO Campbell Centre/ 361-8833/ Sun.-Fri. 11:30-2, 6-11; Sat. 6-midnight! Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

The Beefeater Inn. When they’re good, they’re very, very good-capable of serving the finest beef in Dallas. Ultra-fresh tossed salad prepared at your table. And more than one patron has extolled the smooth virtues of the Velvet Hammers here. Inconsistent service seems to fit the stuffy elegance of the place. (2425 Cedar Springs/ 748-2553/ Mon.-Fri. 6-10:30, Sat. til 11:30/ Reservations/ AE, BA/ $$$)

Bellmaster. A North Dallas newcomer that has drawn early praise. The menu features mostly seafood specialities, very well prepared. But the highlight may well be the double lamb chops (“Royale”), big and beautifully done (though a word of warning: stay with the mint jelly – the spiced peanut butter tastes no better than it sounds). An elegant setting, but prices that pay for it. Bar by “membership.” (Carillon Plaza, 13601 Preston Rd./ 661-9353/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Mon.-Fri. 5-12, Sat. 6:30-12. Bar til 2, Fri. & Sat./ Reservations/ MC, BA/ $$$)

The Blue Front. A downtown tradition, this small family-run restaurant has been serving good home-style German food in Dallas since 1877. Go for the food, not the decor (it has none). Be sure to try the lentil soup. Beer and wine. Lunch only. (1312 Commerce/ 748-1471/ Mon.-Sat. 7 a.m.-4 p.m./ No credit cards/ $)

Brennan’s. For breakfast or Sunday brunch, Brennan’s lives up to its New Orleans reputation. The Eggs Benedict or Eggs Sardou and the turtle soup are the best anywhere, and the variety of breakfast cocktails are an early morning treat. The dinner Creole cuisine falls short, but the flaming desserts are fantastic (usually). Beware of the service, it can be perfect or perfectly awful. The atmosphere is tasteful and elegant. (One Main Place/ 742-1911/ Breakfast & lunch: 7-2:30 on weekdays, 8-2:30 on weekends; Dinner: 6-10 weekdays, till 11 weekends/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

Brasserie. The cream of the all-night restaurant crop. Of special note are the scrambled eggs with lox and onions (where else can you get that at 3 a.m.?), some terrific pastries and luscious bittersweet chocolate ice cream. The later it is, the better it all seems to taste. Sidewalk cafe motif. Usually fast service. (Fairmont Hotel, Ross & Akardl 748-5454/ 24 hours, 7 days a week/ MC, BA,AE,DC/$$)

Campisi’s Egyptian Restaurant. The original Dallas pizza parlor still serves some of the best pizza in town and at very reasonable prices. If pizza doesn’t fit your mood, forget it – you’ll have to fill up on an appetizer basket of crab claws. They’re a treat. Avoid the salad. Good late night spot. (5610 E. Mockingbird/ 827-0355/ Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-midnight, Sat. til 1 a.m., Sun. noon-midnight/ No credit cards. Checks accepted/ Reservations for 6 or morel $)

Cattlemen’s. This old stand-by still offers great steaks in the Texas steakhouse tradition. The side dishes are mediocre and the decor is cutesy cowboy, but the steak’s the thing. (2007 Live Oak/ 747-9131/ Mon.-Fri. 4:30-10:45, Sat. 5.30-midnight/ Reservations recommended/ MC, BA, AE, CB/$$)

Celebration. Home cooking served family style. The all-you-can-eat prices (from $2.50-$4.50 depending upon the entree) are a dinner bargain. The food is good – not great – with pot roast the best of five entrees. Delicious homemade biscuits. A great place to take kids, as children’s plates are only $1-$1.50. Fun atmosphere. No bar, bring your own wine. (4503 W. Lovers Lane! 351-5681/ Mon.-Sat. 5:30-11, Sun. til 10:30/ No reservations/ MC, BA/ $)

Chablis. Only sometimes do the French specialties here achieve the excellence that the prices and reputation of Chablis lead you to expect. The escargot are indeed superb and the Veal Scallopini Marsala is a favorite among patrons. Service is slow when crowded, but very attentive otherwise. A most comfortable French provincial atmosphere. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/ 522-0910/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Mon.-Thur. 6-11, Fri. & Sat. til midnight/ Reservations at night/ MC, BA, DC/ $$$)

Chateaubriand. The strong point is variety. Whatever you order from the wide-ranging continental menu is likely to be good, though sauces tend to be gooey. Bountiful servings at moderate prices. The salads alone are worth a visit. Or try it for better than average Greek food. The ambience can only be described as continental decadent posh (see for yourself). (2515 McKinney/ 741-1223/ Mon.-Sat. 11:30-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)

The Chimney. In the tearoom tradition, but this one has a lot more to offer than your usual crustless pimento cheese sandwich. The menu changes daily, with seafood and chicken specialties the standouts. Delightful lunching in a southern colonial atmosphere. (Willow Creek, 9739 N. Central Expwy./ 369-6466/ Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m./ Reservations/ No credit cards. Checks accepted/ $$)

Chiquita. This long-time favorite of Mexican food gourmets has been disappointing recently with a few sub-par performances in both cuisine and service. Hopefully only a temporary slump as the specialty dishes such as chiles rellenos stuffed with Linares cheese and the Chicken a la Parilla have been delights in the past. The Tex-Mex here is average at above-average prices. A tasty bean soup is complimentary with every meal. (3325 Oak Lawn/ 521-0721/ Mon.-Sat. 11:30-11/ No reservations/ MC, BA, AE/ $$)

La Creperie. Dine on the outdoor patio on a nice day and you won’t mind the consistently slow, though cordial, service. Choose from almost 50 varieties of crepes – the white asparagus and swiss cheese is a winner. Dessert crepes from 50￠-$5 and 10 varieties of espresso. (Quadrangle, 2800 Routh/ 651-0506/ Mon.-Wed. 1110:30, Thur.-Sat. till 11/ Reservations recommended/ MC, BA, DC/ $$)

Cuquita’s Cafe. Slightly tacky but very friendly Mexican cafe. The regular fare is tasty but heavy stuff in overly generous portions, so try a lunch of great guacamole salad and fresh homemade corn tortillas. Beer only. (2718 Harry Hines/ 742-0833/ Tues.-Sun. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Closed Mon./ No credit cards/ $)

Daddy’s Money. Attracts a lively crowd – and we do mean crowd – so expect a long wait at the bar before dining. Order the fine rack of lamb or you’ll get an average meal. Another alternative is to go for Sunday brunch which features some great fresh fruit daiquiries as well as some interesting omelettes. The three-level dining room creates a nice effect. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville Ave./ 363-8686/ Mon.Thur. 11-11. Fri. & Sat. 1112:30, Sun. 10-11. Drinks til 2 a.m. daily/ No reservations/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ $$)



Dynasty. The many fine mandarin dishes here include Shrimp Jamboo with tomato sauce, an unusual mixed vegetable dish called Buddhist Delight, and spicy shredded beef in garlic sauce. This is also the only Chinese restaurant in town to offer lamb dishes. Try one for an interesting change of pace. No ambience to speak of, but who needs it with food like this? (5214 Greenville Ave./ 368-6883/ Mon.-Thur. 11:30-11, Fri. 11:30-midnight, Sat. 5-midnight/ Reservations for 6 or morelMC,BA,AEI $$)

La Esquina. Mexican food New Mexico style, so they say. This means enchiladas that are layered rather than rolled, beef chunks instead of ground beef, more chilies than cheese. Definitely different and usually good, though not particularly exciting (the pork and red chili enchilada is a good example for the curious). Sometimes sensational sopapillas – they vary from day to day. Homemade sang-ria and margaritas by the litre. Quiet setting in a neat old house. Seems overpriced (tortilla – 15￠?). (2815 McKinney/ 826-2950/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-1:30, Dinner: Mon.-Thur. 6-9:30, Fri. & Sat. til 10/ Reservations not needed/ All credit cards/ Checks accepted/ $$)

Ewald’s. Interesting and consistently well prepared German-style high cuisine that’s getting better all the time. A great place for veal – Ewald’s specialty. The seafood is quite good, too. Graceful but unspectacular atmosphere. (5415 W. Lovers Ln./ 257-16221 Mon.-Fri. 6-10:30, Sat. 6-11/ MC, BA/ Reservations/ $$$)

Gallery Buffet. Re-opening on October 22 at the Dallas Museum of Fine Arts. For $2.50 you can have a delightful lunch of hearty soups, salad, hot homemade bread loaves, and splendid desserts. A tradition of delicious food at a delicious price. Wine extra. (Fair Park/ 428-6263/ Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m./ No reservations/ $)

Genghis Khan Mongolian Feast. Try this one once and pass your own judgment. Some like it (especially kids), some don’t. The “feast” goes like this: Help yourself to thin slices of raw beef, pork, turkey, and lamb; garnish with vegetables, spices, and sauce; take it to the brazier where the mixture is grilled while you watch. Hint: Try it at lunch first – it’s cheaper then. (4830 Greenville/ 361-0280/ Tues.-Fri. 11:30-2, 5:30-11; Sat. & Sun. 5-10 only/ Reservations not needed/ All credit cards/$$)

Goldfinger. In a city with a dearth of good Greek food, this is one of few options left since El Greco burned down. The menu has the standard Greek offerings and features a house specialty combination of souflaki and large shrimp. The food is fairly good, if unimaginative. Becoming increasingly popular on weekends as an entertainment spot. (2905 Cridelle, Bachman Lake area/ 350-6983/ Daily 11:30-2, 6-11; Fri. & Sat. til midnight/ Reservations on weekends/ MC, BA, AE/ $$)



The Grape. A unique and always crowded restaurant boasting 25 varieties of cheese and a menu of light entrees that changes daily. The tournedos bearnaise are a favorite. For a touch of pure excellence, try any of the homemade soups (fresh mushroom is the specialty). During busy hours, which is most of the time, service can be painfully slow. Unusual wine list. No mixed drinks. (2808 Greenville Ave./ 823-0133/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Tues.-Sun. 6-10:30, open later on Fri. & Sat. for wine and cheese only/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $$)

The Health Nut. Dallas’ best health food restaurant. A homemade cream cheese sandwich on wheat-berry bread that is sure to please, whether you’re a health nut or not. Wonderful fresh fruit or vegetable salads. Great smoothies. Casual atmosphere, to say the least, and clever decor with glass table tops on tree stumps. Warning: no smoking. (4220 Oak Lawn/ 526-4050/ Daily 11 -9/ No credit cards/ $)

Herrera Cafe. Mexican home cooking at its best. Don’t be put off by the hole-in-the-wall decor – the food is first class. Watch them make the flour tortillas as you walk in, then order them – a rare treat. The hot sauce is different, delicious, and hot. And the soft cheese tacos have to be tasted to be appreciated-surely the best ever. They’re contemplating expansion (there are only 9 tables), so go while it’s good (remember Ojeda’s?). Bring your own beer. (3902 Maple/ 526-9427/ Weekdays 9-8, Weekends til 10. Closed Tuesday/ No credit cards/ No reservations/ $)



Hungry Hunter. Regardless of the quality, which is difficult to determine, where else can you get wild boar or buffalo? For starters, try the Hunters Feast for two, with boar, quail, and frog legs. Venison for the un-adventuresome. Ambience is hunting lodge chic. And the bartender has some incredibly potent concoctions – ask for his Rolls Royce. (Keystone Park, 13931 N. Cen. Expwy./ 690-8090/ Lunch: 11:30-3 except Sat, Dinner: 6-11, Fri. & Sat. til midnight/ Bar open til 2 a.m./ MC, BA, AE/ $$$)

Ianni’s. The special menu of Italian hors d’oeuvres is so loaded with goodies – from Spiedini (a stuffed miniature veal roll) to toasted ravioli to Italian sausage that is without peer – that a dinner of all appetizers is very tempting. If you’ve got room left, the Veal Scallopine Ianni is the best of the specialties. The atmosphere, unfortunately, is noisy. (2230 Greenville Ave./ 826-6161/ Daily 5:30-11:30/ Reservations/ MC, AE/ $$)

II Sorrento. Classical Italian cuisine of very high quality, from the most ambitious Italian menu in town. You can hardly miss, but especially good are the dishes with homemade flat pasta, including the fettuccine and the tagliatelle, both prepared at your table. The service is frequently as lavish as the Italian street scene decor, complete with strolling musicians. (8616 Turtle Creek/ 352-8759/ Daily 5:30-11, Sat. til midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)



Jamil’s Steak House. Lebanese hors d’oeuvres with all dinners are the added attraction here, good and filling. Included, among other tidbits, are a Tabouli salad, cabbage rolls, and a basket of barbecue ribs and bologna. Steaks are large and at bargain prices. (2907 W. Northwest Hwy./ 352-9071/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11 -2, Dinner: Daily 5-midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)

Khalil’s. Excellent Middle Eastern cuisine, and one of the few places in the city that you’ll find it. The owner prepares most all dishes himself, and he works very hard to please. The atmosphere has been vastly improved by recent redeco-ration. (31 Highland Park Village/ 526-5600/ Mon.-Sat. 11-10/ Reservations for 6 or morel MC/ $$)



Kirby’s. A dependable, no-nonsense steak house. Mr. Kirby still runs the place and there are no bad surprises. Attentive but unobtrusive service. The filet is an especially good value. Great onion rings, but the salads are a weak item. (3715 Greenville/ 823-7296/ Tues.-Sun. 5:30-10:30, Fri. & Sat. til midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)



Kitty Hawk. A curious but attractive decorum combination of airplane motif (including a large replica of the “Kitty Hawk” itself hanging from the lounge ceiling) in a garden patio setting. Charcoaled shrimp takes the prize here – they’re huge and flavorful. Worth a visit, though service can be astoundingly bad and dinner prices are high. (5201 Matilda/ 691-0394/ Lunch: Daily 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Sun.-Thurs. Sat. til 11:30/ No reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)



Kuby’s Sausage House. Dallas’ best deli-restaurant. A cheery place with a German accent. Browse the German magazine rack while you’re standing in line (lunchtime is always crowded). Or leave your lunchmate to stand in line while you check out the fascinating grocery imports. Marvelous pastrami and nicely priced daily specials. No bar. (6601 Snider Plaza/ 363-2231/ Mon.-Sat. 11-2:30, Sandwiches til 5:30/ MC/ $)



The Magic Pan. Usually overcrowded, but worth it. Excellent crepes (you can watch them being made) and a fine spinach salad. Try the Chantilly crepes for dessert. Recommended for a Sunday brunch when the shopping crowd is gone. (NorthPark-New Mall/ 692-7574/ Sun.-Thur. 11-midnight, Fri. & Sat. til Le No reservations/ MC, BA, AE/$$)



Marcel’s. Very French and very good. Two dining rooms with different menus. The newer, Le Cabaret, offers a complete table d’hote dinner (including all the hors d’oeuvres you can eat) for only $5.50 – a gourmet bargain. But the original dining room is much more pleasant. In either room, the Beef Wellington is Marcel’s masterpiece. An interesting menu note claims “we will prepare any classical French cuisine upon request”. Attentive service in a quiet, relaxed atmosphere. (5721 Lovers Ln./ 358-2103/ Sun.-Thur. 5:30-10:30, Fri. & Sat. til midnight/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ $$)

Mariano’s. A good mariachi band, lavish Mexican courtyard decor, and fantastic frozen margaritas do their best to hide the fact that the food is only passable at prices that are questionable. But it’s a fun and lively place. (Old Town, 5500 Greenville/ 691-3888/ Sun.-Thurs. 11-10:30, Bar til 1; Fri. & Sat. 11-11, Bar til 2/ No reservations/ MC, BA, AE/ $$)

Mario’s. Elegant and refined, to be sure, and, on a good night, capable of Italian specialties as interesting and rewarding as any of the best dishes in the city. But consistency in both food and service has faltered lately. Recommended: Sal-timbocca alla Romana, manicotti, fried zucchini. The veal with artichoke hearts and mushrooms is famous, and deservedly so. And no matter what precedes it, the spu-moni for dessert is always a delight. (135 Turtle Creek Village/ 521-1135/ Daily 6-10:45, Sat. til 11:45/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

Mr. Peppe. There are those who swear by it as the finest restaurant in the city. Specialties include Crabmeat Peggy, Pepper Steak, and Veal Cordon Bleu – all extraordinarily good. A cordial and comfortable ambience – they remember you here. Albert, the new owner, makes pastries that are unrivaled. Very reasonably priced. (5617 W. Lovers Ln./ 352-5976/ Mon.-Sat. 6-10/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE/ $$$)

Ojeda Cafe. It’s no longer the living legend it once was – popularity and expansion have tarnished its charm. But the puffed tacos are still the best around, and the crowds persist. Beer only. (4447 Maple/ 526-9261/ Tue.-Fri. 11-3, 5-8:30; Sat. & Sun. 11-8:30; Closed Mon./ 4011 Cedar Springs/ 521-4740/ Mon., Wed.-Fri. 11-3,5-9; Sat. & Sun. 11-9; Closed Tues./ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)

Old Spaghetti Warehouse. One for the kids. An old Market St. warehouse brought back to life and loaded with antiques and novelties (including a real City of Dallas trolley car). It’s possible that the spaghetti is also antique. But the half-price plate for children under 12 is a deal. Try it for a birthday party. (1815 Market St./ 651-8475/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11-2:30, Dinner: Mon.-Thur. 5:30-11, Fri. & Sat. 5-12, Sun. 12-10/ Reservations for 20 or more only/ MC, BA, AE/ $)

Old Warsaw. Its heritage of excellence in providing the complete French-continental dining experience is being challenged by frequent reports of slow and indifferent service. The menu of many superlatives remains intact: Chicken Kiev, Duck Bigarade, Red Snapper Meuniere and the Chateaubriand en Papillote to name a few of the best. Salads & vegetables are disappointing. A very fine wine list. (2610 Maple/ 528-0032/ Daily 6-11, Sat. til midnight/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)

Oporto Oyster Bar. Though their food is not always of gourmet quality, Oporto’s makes a welcome contribution with the most varied and extensive seafood menu in Dallas, a city severely lacking in quality, imaginative seafood. Offerings include brook trout, flounder, scallops, Boston scrod. The consistent standouts are the broiled Maine lobster and oysters on the half shell. Good service in an informal atmosphere. (2929 N. Henderson/ 826-2553/ Daily 5-ll,Fri. & Sat. til midnight/ MC, BA, AE/ $$)

Oz. Superlatives abound in this exciting new restaurant/club. A chef and staff with glowing international credentials offer a variety of unusual and brilliantly prepared specialities. Particularly impressive are the pheasant with grapes and brown sauce and the striped bass. The hors d’oeuvre plate of smoked fish and a luscious pate in puff pastry are sensational. An exhaustive wine list presided over by Igor, the delightful wine steward. Neon and mirrors create an artistic atmosphere of ultra-modern elegance. The multi-leveled discotheque, to feature the noted North Texas Lab Band, is scheduled to open Oct. 15, at which time lunch hours will begin and evening hours will be expanded. A private club, memberships are $25 per year or $5 for a temporary (3 day) membership. Dinner prices are expensive, but justifiably so. (5429 LBJ Freeway/ 233-5755/ Tue.-Sun. 6-11 p.m., temporarily/ Reservations only/ MC, BA, AE/ $$$)

Patry’s. A small and very popular, if slightly overrated, French restaurant. Some of the food is indeed superb, with the coq au vin, the onion soup, and the creme caramel deserving of special note. A problem here is in the acoustics – it gets distractingly noisy when busy. Service varies, but generally a most pleasant staff. (2504 McKinney/ 748-3754/ Tues.-Fri. 6-11, Sat. til 11:30/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ $$$)

Peking Palace. Mandarin and Sze-chuan specialties that rank with the best in the city. Try the fried dumplings for openers. The Nanking and Seshun pork and the hot spiced beef are excellent, but so is everything else. Peking duck on an hour’s notice. Service can be terrible if crowded. (4119 homo Alto/ 522-1830/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2:30; Dinner: Mon.-Thurs. 5-11, Sat. & Sun. til midnight, Sun. 12-10/ Reservations on weekends/ MC, BA,AE/$$)

Penny Pinchers. An unusual place featuring Creole cuisine among other things (such as curried chicken and spaghetti), all you can eat, buffet style. Home cooked in a homey atmosphere by husband and wife owners. Food is undistinguished, but the price is right. Good for the hungry. Beer & wine only. (6556 Skillman/ 341-2127/ Mon.-Sat. 6-10/ Reservations, but not necessary/ MC, AE/ $)

Pepperport. One of the best of a host of new restaurants springing up in far north Dallas. Pepperport fea-tures three different menus for different times of the day including a late night weekend menu of omelettes and escargot, among other things. The food – mostly American specialties -has been consistently outstanding from all menus. Charming Colonial setting. Cocktails by “membership” only – it’s dry out here. (Carillon Towers, 13601 Preston Rd./ 661-3237/ Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11:30-2; Dinner: Mon.-Thur. 6:3010:30, Fri. & Sat. til 11; Late snack: Fri. & Sat. 11:30 p.m.-l:30 a.m./ Reservations for 6 or morel MC,BA,AE/ $$)

Pietro’s. Small and comfortable, Pietro’s serves some of the better pasta dishes in Dallas, Southern Italian homestyle cooking. The manicotti and cannelloni lead the way. The garlic bread is a must and the pizza is the best in town, period. Usually crowded, but worth the wait. (5722 Richmond, off Greenville/824-9403/ Tue.-Thur. 5-10:30, Fri. & Sat. til 11:30/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $$)

Ports O’Call. The only thing consistent here anymore is the view from atop the Southland Life building. Wide variety of cuisine, but mostly Polynesian. The quality varies even more widely (the lobster is good, but avoid the shrimp). The drinks are exotic. Best for its luncheon buffet – at $3.50 it’s well worth it. (Southland Center, 2117 Live Oak/ 748-6211/ Mon.-Sat. 11:30-2:30, 6-10:30/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$$)



Royal Tokyo. A relative newcomer that has proven consistent with well-prepared Japanese cuisine, and it seems to be improving with age. Standouts are the Ton Katsu (delicate batter fried pork strips) and the Shrimp Tempura. Green tea (it’s terrific), imported Japanese beer & whiskey and, of course, saki. (7525 Greenville Ave./ 368-3304/ Daily, 11-2, 5:30-11:30/ MC, BA.AE/ Reservations/ $$)



Sakura. Dine Japanese style: on the floor, shoeless, with chopsticks, in Oriental robes provided by the restaurant. (Or at a regular table if you prefer.) Most dishes cooked at your table. More for the fun than for the food, which is average. (5206 Maple/ 522-0200/ Tues.-Sun. 6-11/ Reservations/ All credit cards/



Satian’s. Although billed as a Thai restaurant, the menu includes a variety of other Oriental dishes. The Chiangmai beef is quite good and the Thai shrimp rolls are superb, though the sweet and sour sauce leans a bit heavily to the sweet side. Forget the fried rice. Low-key decor and a loud-key folk-singer hardly create an atmosphere of old Siam, but Thai classical dancing is performed Fri. & Sat. at 8:30 p.m. and is worth seeing. Service is gracious. Bar by “membership”. (Keystone Park. 13931 N. Cen. Expwy. 690-0682/ Lunch Tue.-Fri., 11-2:30, Dinner Tues.-Sun. 5-11 p.m., lounge til 12/ MC, BA, AE/$$)

Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse. Quite simply, the best barbecue in town. And in generous portions. They close in the evening whenever they run out of beef, so after 7 give them a call to be sure they’re still serv-ing. Beer only. Beat the crowds – try them in the morning for breakfast ham and coffee. (2202 Inwood/ 257-7120/ Mon.-Sat. 6 a.m.-8 p.m. (see above), Sun. 11-2/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)

South China. A varied menu of exquisite Chinese cuisine. This small, unassuming restaurant is rapidly building a reputation for the best Oriental food in the city. Recommended: Moo shi pork, any of the dishes with the superb black bean sauce, and the delicious Egg Flower soup. Don’t overlook the so-called home favorites. Personable and personalized service. (5424 E. Mockingbird/ 826-5420/ Lunch: Tue.-Sun. 11:30-2:30, Dinner: Tue.-Thur. 5-11, Fri. & Sat. til 12, Sun. til 11/ Reservations/ MC, BA, AE/

Taxco Cafe. Good Tex-Mex specialties, especially for the newcomer to Mexican cuisine. The preparations are subtle, not so highly seasoned. Excellent guacamole and the re-fried beans are the real thing. Friendly service with prices that may be the best value in Dallas.

Beer only. (2126 N. St. Paul/ 742-0747/ Wed.-Sun. 10:30-8/ No reservations/ MC/ $)



Trader Vic’s. There are Trader Vic’s all over the country, but don’t let that scare you away. They’re all different and this one is quite good. The Indonesian lamb roast and the limestone lettuce salad are worth a dinner trip any time. Great hors d’oeuvres and fun drinks, but avoid the Planters Punch. (Hilton Inn, 5600 N. Cen. Expwy./ 827-4100/ Mon.-Sat. 5-12/ Reservations/ All credit cards/ $$)



Upper Crust. Tasty home-cooking in old-fashioned kitchen motif. Entrees change daily and range widely from liver to lasagna. Good red beans & cornbread at lunch-time and salad with an unusual buttermilk dressing. No alcoholic beverages sold. (Olla Podrida, 12215 Coit Rd./ 661-5738/ Lunch: Mon.-Sat. 11:30-5, Dinner: Mon. & Thurs. only til 8:30/ No reservations/ No credit cards/ $)



Yee’s. One of the three top Cantonese restaurants in Dallas (the other two are Canton and House of Gong), Yee’s is featured here on the strength of two standout specialties, duck with fruit and the spareribs. (Canton’s highlight is the silver noodle beef and Gong’s is recommended for its curried dishes.) Whichever place you visit, try different dishes (standard custom is one dish for each person plus one for the table). (Yee’s, 5420 Lem-mon/ 526-1050/ Tue.-Sun. 11-midnight/ No reservations/ All credit cards/ $/.

Canton, 5519 W. Lovers Ln./ 357-4486/ Tue.-Sat. 11:30-10/ Reservations on weekends/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ $/.

House of Gong, 3726 W. NW. Hwy./ 352-8248/ Daily 5-12/ MC, BA, AE, DC/ No reservations/ $)



Zodiac Room. A buffet productionthat delights the eye as well as thepalate. Luncheon delicacies of thefirst order (though it used to bebetter) with a special flair for desserts-they are phenomenal. Thefresh fruit salad (in season) withthe deservedly famous poppy seeddressing is super. Service is leisurely, to say the least. Danish pastries in the morning from 9:30-10:30. Wine and beer. (Neiman-Marcus, downtown/ 741-6911/Lunch: Mon.-Sat. 11-2:30, Dinnerbuffet, Thurs. only, 5-7/ Reservations/ Neiman-Marcus charge cardonly, Checks accepted/ $$)