Friday, August 12, 2022 Aug 12, 2022
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Food and Drink

Chef’s Corner: Rise No. 1

Savor a variety of soufflés in one of the most talked about restaurants in town.
By Peggy Levinson |
The private dining space is enclosed by birch trees and offers a view into the kitchen.
photography by Elizabeth Lavin

Hedda Gioia Dowd, owner of Antique Harvest vintage linen and silver collection, has teamed up with restaurateur Mark McGuire to open Dallas’ first—and only—soufflé salon. The aptly named Rise No. 1 offers 13 types of soufflés, both sweet and savory, salads, sandwiches, wines, and champagnes. The original concept is just a natural extension of Gioia Dowd’s personality—from her French mother she got the ritual of the dining experience, enjoying a leisurely meal of tasty food with real silver and linen, unmatched, of course.

Gioia Dowd is not a member of the throw-away society. Like her farmhouse in East Texas, Rise No. 1 is furnished with found objects and recycled materials: Drinking glasses are made from recycled wine bottles, and the plates are made from recycled beach glass. Wall sconces are made from antique French grates, old school desks serve as tables, and their inkwells have been turned into bud vases.

Gioia Dowd’s love of antique linens is obvious, from the 80-year-old French linen and hemp fabrics used to make the waiters’ aprons, to the hand-embroidered flax napkins imported from chateaux and farmhouses in the South of France. Instead of paper towels in the communal washroom, she uses antique French linens. The flatware is a mix of one-of-a-kind European antique silverplate.

Executive chef Cherif Brahmi, who runs the kitchens at Maguire’s and at Rise No. 1, was born in Lyon and classically trained in France. He knows how to make a good soufflé. Specially made French ovens bake the soufflés in about 10 minutes, making it possible to enjoy your leisurely French meal with American speed. Brahmi grows his own herbs in the garden outside. The wine list is quirky and original, subtly pairing the right French wine with each dish. Rise No.1. 5360 W. Lovers Ln., Ste.  220; 214-366-9900. www.risesouffle.com.

photography by Vanessa Gavalya

Chocolat Soufflé
Yields 4 soufflés (standard 12-ounce round ceramic molds)

 4 to 6 ounces softened butter
 1/2 to 1 cup granulated sugar
 16  ounces pastry cream (see recipe below)
 1 tablespoon cocoa powder
 10 egg whites
  pinch granulated salt
 1/2 cup granulated sugar

Step 1: Prepare the molds by brushing the inside edges and bottom completely with softened, unsweetened butter using a pastry brush to ensure complete coverage. Be sure butter goes completely to the top edge of the mold. Pour about 1/2 cup of granulated sugar into the mold and roll it around so that it adheres to the bottom and all up the inside edges of the mold. Pour out any excess sugar and use elsewhere in the recipe. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Step 2: Make the pastry cream base using the recipe below and set aside. The base may be made one day in advance and stored in the refrigerator to save time.

Step 3: In a medium stainless steel bowl, put 16 ounces (by weight) of the pastry cream base. Add the cocoa powder using a spoon, work it into the pastry cream until all is fully incorporated. Set aside. In another stainless steel bowl, put 10 egg whites and a pinch of salt. Using an electric mixer start beating the whites at high speed and gradually add 1/2 cup of granulated sugar. Continue beating until soft peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into  bowl with pastry cream until an even consistency is achieved. Distribute the mix between the four prepared molds filling each to within 1/2 inch of the top edge. Immediately place the filled molds on the lowest rack of the preheated oven and bake for 25 to 30 minutes. Time will vary depending on your oven and molds. Remove carefully when soufflés have risen and are browned on top. Place them on serving plates.

Step 4: Serve the soufflés without delay. Decorate the top with a dusting of powdered sugar or leave plain. Chocolate sauce or fresh whipped cream may be served on the side or on top.

Pastry Cream
Yields about 1 1/2 Pints; Enough for 4 soufflés

 3  egg yolks
 4 tablespoons
  granulated sugar
 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
 1 tablespoon corn starch
 2 cups whole milk, scalding

Step 1: Combine yolks, sugar, flour, and corn starch in a bowl until smooth. Slowly add scalding milk while stirring with a wire whip until all is well incorporated.

Step 2: Put combined ingredients into a non-aluminum sauce pot and, while stirring constantly with a heat-proof spatula or wooden spoon, heat the mix until it starts to thicken. Bring to a complete boil without scorching. Remove from pan and place in a bowl or storage container. Stir occasionally while cooling to avoid a skin forming on top.