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Bravo Beaujolais
The time is near to celebrate Beaujolais Nouveau’s return.
Every year, on the third Thursday of November as the clock strikes midnight, the wine world parties—from Paris to Tokyo to Dallas. This boundless celebration honors the release of Beaujolais Nouveau, a light, fruity French wine meant to be enjoyed in its youth.
Before the French government enforced strict regulations in 1951, Beaujolais Nouveau was considered a peasant wine– a reward for the labors of harvest. It was brought straight from the barrel to bistros in cups and enjoyed by locals in the Beaujolais region of southern Burgundy. When the demand for an inexpensive wine hit Parisian bistros after World War II, the youthful offering became a hot trend, and by the 1960s it was a cultural phenomenon. No longer were poor field workers the only people looking forward to its release. Cases were flown on the Concorde to wine lovers all over the world. By the mid-1980s the third Thursday rule was officially in place, and importers agreed not to release the wine any earlier.
All Beaujolais Nouveau is made from hand-picked Gamay grapes and first fermented by carbonic maceration, a method in which the grapes begin to ferment before the final crush. This produces a fresh, low-tannin juice. Each vintage varies with the region’s weather conditions. Upon its release, Beaujolais Nouveau will have aged a mere seven to nine weeks, and unlike many French reds—known for deep flavors, robust tannins, and their ability to stand the test of time in the cellar—should be consumed well before May. The 2004 release is expected to be more concentrated and full-bodied than in years past, but when buying Beaujolais, Francois Chandou, owner of La Cave Warehouse, counsels that the winemaker is a better predictor than the weather: Quality is determined by the producer. A great producer can release a good wine in bad years and stellar wine in great years.
Beaujolais Nouveau from tried-and-true producers such as Georges DuBoeuf, Jaffelin, Louis Tete, Moillard, Joseph Drouhin, Mommessin, Louis Jadot, and Pierre Charmotte are safe bets. Look for them on November 17 at Best Cellars, La Cave, Sigel’s, Wine Market & More, and Pogo’s. You’ll find that most bottles are priced under $15.
Since Beaujolais Nouveau won’t sit on store shelves long, be sure to plan ahead. The Wine Market & More (3858 Oak Lawn Ave., Ste. 165. 214-219-6758), remaining true to French tradition, will pop its first cork at 12:01 a.m. on November 17. You’ll be able to taste the wines, and, more important, purchase a few bottles of your own. Harris Polakoff, owner of Pogo’s Wine and Spirits (5360 W. Lovers Ln., Ste. 200. 214-350-8989), estimates that his entire stock will sell out within a week or two. And if you’re not a diligent oenophile don’t worry. La Cave (1931 Market Center Blvd., Ste. 129. 214-747-9463) is one of the few local wine shops taking pre-orders.
All Dallas wine lovers are invited to celebrate the Beaujolais Wine Festival ($49 per person) on Friday, November 19, at Adam’s Mark Hotel Dallas (400 N. Olive St.). The annual event, organized by the French-American Chamber of Commerce (972-241-0111), attracts more than 2,000 grape fans eagerly awaiting the world’s first taste of the new vintage and scrumptious bites from local restaurants.
TASTING NOTES
Drink Beaujolais Nouveau slightly chilled to enhance the fruity notes. Be careful not to over chill or numb the flavors of the wine.
