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Shopping In New Orleans

Our guide to the best art, antiques, and accessories dealers in New Orleans’ French Quarter.
By Todd Johnson |


Big Fun in The Big Easy

Skip the brights lights of Bourbon Street for a taste of the real French Quarter: the best shopping in New Orleans.

 
BORN ON THE BAYOU: The sights and sounds of New Orleans are unlike anywhere else, whether it’s a musician blowing a soulful horn on a street corner (above left) or shopping for a new vibrant mask for the next Mardi Gras ball.

Bourbon Street has a distinct smell. It’s the pungent scent of sin and rain-slicked pavement. Sorority girls and one-too-many hurricanes. Half-eaten po’boys and stale beer. And for many tourists, this neon-clad avenue of debauchery represents the best of the Crescent City.

I respectfully disagree. That’s not my New Orleans. Sure, the Sin City of the South has its seedy charms. And if all you’re looking for is a stiff drink and cheap thrills, then Bourbon Street is your Disneyland, albeit with an R-rating.

But just like its boulevard of iniquity, the French Quarter has its own particular scent, though far sweeter and more memorable. It’s the spicy aroma of red beans and rice simmering in a nearby kitchen. The heady salt air of the Mighty Mississippi River. Olive-soaked muffulettas at the Corner Grocery on Decateur Street (that always taste best at 4 a.m.). And, best of all, the dusty history of Royal Street’s famed antique stores.

Yes, New Orleans is a city of vices. Great food and unique shopping beckon visitors at each historic turn. You’ll leave this Southern star satiated, swearing you can’t eat another bite, drink another drop, or ever shop again. That is, until you plan your next visit. That’s the thing about vices. They rarely stay satisfied. Indulge already.

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START HERE

 
JACKSON SQUARE

Founded in 1718, New Orleans is a blend of French, Spanish, and African heritage. It can be tasted in the robust, spicy flavors of Cajun and Creole cuisines, witnessed through the various architectural styles of the city and seen in the cultural diversity of its population. From the grand antebellum homes of the Garden District to the urban haunts of the Warehouse and Central Business Districts to the ramshackle appeal of the Farbourg Marigny, New Orleans is a rollicking town steeped in scandalous lore. But it’s the French Quarter (or Vieux Carré meaning “Old Square”) that more than 10 million visit each year. With its nightlife, peep shows, and non-stop entertainment, it’s the gaudy bauble of New Orleans. However, the Quarter is also a village. Residents respect and love the history of their neighborhood, and if you wander off the well-beaten paths, you’ll discover tenderly restored colonial Spanish architecture, Creole cottages, wrought-iron balconies (called “galleries” in New Orleans), secret courtyards, and sun-kissed wooden shutters. Behind those shuttered windows reside genteel Southerners who undoubtedly enjoy a good time—the repressed and inhibited need not make New Orleans their home—but also exude an easygoing, carefree joy of life. They’re friendly and love to talk—a tourist’s best friend. Ask around. They’ll tell you the best places to eat, shop, and, of course, drink. They’ll also warn you to stick to well-lit areas and travel in packs. As with any urban entertainment district, the Quarter is a prime target for petty thieves. Stay alert. And relatively sober.

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SHOP HERE

 
OLD SCHOOL: Since 1899, Keil’s Antiques has specialized in fine 18th and 19th-century French and English furniture.

On my last visit, a particularly colorful Cajun with daiquiri on his breath offered this sage advice: “If you want a drink, go to Bourbon Street. If you want a tacky t-shirt, go to Decateur Street. But if it’s shopping you want, then you gotta go Royal.” One block off and running parallel to Bourbon, Royal Street is as aristrocratic as its name implies. If you’re looking for pristine Spanish architecture, this is your street of dreams. Royal is also notable for being the birthplace of the cocktail. In the 1790s, pharmacist A.A. Peychaud blended an old family recipe for bitters with cognac in a coquetier, a double egg cup. His new creation became the rage of the Quarter. And thus, America’s first cocktail.

But more importantly—and remember: it all depends on which vice you’re enslaved to—Royal Street is home to New Orleans finest shopping, including some of its most reputable antiques stores. Some are regal, multi-storied institutions such as Keil’s Antiques (325 Royal St., 504-522-4552). Billed as a “treasure house for antiques,” it’s easy to get caught up in the hunt amid Keil’s three stories of twinkling chandeliers, marble mantels, and fine 18th and 19th-century French and English furniture. Count Presidents Theodore Roosevelt and Woodrow Wilson as past customers.

Voted “Best Antiques Store” by Gambit Weekly—New Orleans’ entertainment tabloid—M.S. Rau Antiques (630 Royal St. 504-523-5660) features more than 20,000 square feet of porcelain, jewelry, silver, and objets d’art. Down the street, Mirror Mirror (933 Royal St. 504-566-1990) specializes in—you guessed it—antique mirrors of every shape and size. It’s a charming shop, and truly unique. The megastore of antique shops in New Orleans, Dixon & Harris of Royal (237 Royal St. 504-524-0282) represents the recent joining of two forces: Dixon & Dixon, long known for its vintage oil paintings and recognized as the largest seller of antique clocks in the South, and Harris Antiques, Ltd., with its superior collection of 18th and 19th-century French antique furniture. Their four-story gallery is a must for fans of antiques.

 
YOU’RE SO VAIN: Gaze upon the dazzling selection of antique mirrors at Mirror Mirror on Royal.

But Royal Street is more than just antiques. Its postcard-perfect byway is an eclectic hodgepodge of art galleries, home furnishings, collectibles, and quaint oddities. Le Petit Soldier Shop (528 Royal St. 504-523-7741) is one such place. I never knew I needed a tiny hand-painted Robert E. Lee until I stumbled upon owner Dave Dugas’ jewel of a shop. Tiny airplanes. Tiny tanks. And tiny soldiers, naturally, of every shape and infantry division. It’s a toy store for big boys who never grew up. The same goes for James H. Cohen & Sons (437 Royal St. 504-522-3305), though the toys at this shop are considerably more sharp; namely, Cohen & Sons’ collection of antique weapons, including Civil War swords and muskets.

Running parallel to Royal, Chartres Street seems a little smaller and quieter than Royal. But don’t pass it by. There are still first-rate galleries and quirky shops to be found. Chartres seems tranquil compared to the bustling energy of the rest of the Quarter so it’s a proper setting for galleries such as Callan Fine Art (240 Chartres St. 504-524-0025) and Photo Works New Orleans (839 Chartres St. 504-593-9090). Callan is the traditional gallery experience: a serene setting with exquisite works ranging from neo-classical to contemporary. It’s an amazing collection of 19th and early 20th-century paintings. An exhibit of Paul Erte’s dramatic fashion art lured me into Callan, and I barely escaped with my bank account intact.

I wasn’t so lucky at Photo Works. I’ve always been a sucker for rich black-and-white photographs of cityscapes. And local artist Louis Sahuc is fortunate enough to live in one of the most photogenic cities in the country. From his Jackson Square apartment, Sahuc captures New Orleans in all of its film noir-esque glory: you can hear the jazz creeping from the shadows of his evocative portraits. They’re highly personal works of art.

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EAT HERE

 
ME-OH-MY-OH: Jambalaya is a spicy standby at House of Blues.

Bayona
430 Dauphine St. 504-525-4455.
Chef/owner Susan Spicer is the “it girl” of New Orleans dining, and her blend of Creole cuisine with New American flare is warm, delicious, and—best of all—never cliché. Though the décor is a bit dowdy, the courtyard is classic Crescent City. Reservations are tough to get, so book ahead.

House of Blues
225 Decateur St. 504-529-2624.
Yes, it’s touristy, but the Sunday gospel brunch is the stuff of  legend. The all-you-can-eat buffet is stocked with Cajun and breakfast standbys, including some mean biscuits and gravy. And the live music will lift your soul and get your feet tapping. Hallelujah.

Clover Grill
900 Bourbon St. 504-598-1010.
In New Orleans, dinnertime is anytime, and this 24-hour corner diner is the perfect place to satisfy those late-night (or early-morning) cravings. The burgers are fine, the eggs satisfying, and the patrons colorful—everything from drag queens just leaving work to tourists trying to sober up. It’s an institution, so dig in.

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STAY HERE
Hotel Maison de Ville
727 Rue Toulouse. 504-561-5858.
This quaint, antique-laden residence is made up of townhomes, former slaves’ quarters, and an Old World courtyard. The rooms are a bit small, but this is French Quarter living at its most splendid.

Ritz-Carlton Hotel
921 Canal St. 504-524-1331.
Originally a department store, this grand beaux-arts building has been remade into the Ritz. Superior service, lavishly appointed rooms, and the location is within perfect walking distance of everything.

W Hotel French Quarter
316 Chartres St. 504-581-1200.
Sleek and minimal, the W is the opposite of New Orleans. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. The W’s restaurant, Bacco, is one of the best Italian restaurants in the city.

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