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| BACK IN BLACK:The slick, hip furnishings at Blackmail are deep and rich but never somber. |
The Sighs of Texas
Relax, release, and enjoy some of the Lone Star State’s funkiest shopping in hippie-cool Austin.
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| AUSTIN CREDIT LIMITS: You’ll give your charge card a good workout in the cool shops along Austin’s up-and-coming South Congress strip; vibrant dinnerware is a steal at Gardens |
Some cities concoct elaborate public awareness campaigns to create a positive identity handle, but in Austin a grass-roots underground brigade emblazons T-shirts with the slogan, “Keep Austin Weird,” and the ad execs can go take a hike.
Austin in a word –weird? It’s a label I tried to deny, even set out to disprove on a recent visit, and while wandering the streets in town, I am impressed by the abundance of public spaces, including an in-town lake and plenty of out-of-doors living. So I beg (over and over) to differ with this label, considering words such as “spirited” or even “relaxed” much better descriptions, if a little lacking when it comes to capturing Austin’s (abundant) local color. I even try “naturally enigmatic” on for size for a while, but finally I accept it. Weird fits the Austin mentality “and that’s just how they plan to keep it, thank you very much –and, in the end, weird is good.
START HERE
Austin is a town for untying one’s tie and strapping on some sandals, though it’s better known for power legislation than for power shopping. As befits the Texas state capital, the city is named for Alamo hero Stephen F. Austin and the inner-city street names evoke other founding fathers. The spirit of Lyndon Baines Johnson still fills the air here, a reminder of what one ambitious Texan can achieve in a lifetime. Even today, in the halls of the landmark Driskill Hotel, where Johnson and his wife Lady Bird had their first date, you are likely to overhear political discussions. Austin is a small-scale Washington, D.C., and the work-hard-play-hard mentality is pervasive. The Austin merchants might have to work a bit harder to seduce their shopping audience, but, as they say, necessity is the mother of invention, so invent they do. They keep it weird—as in entertaining.
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| OLD SCHOOL: At Uncommon Objects, shoppers can unearth nostalgic treasures from old bingo cards and photographs to vintage lighting. |
SHOP HERE
South Congress Avenue is not only a grand processional boulevard and Austin-ized version of the Boulevard Saint Germain, but also the moniker of a seven-block corridor of shops with a campy, trendy, and energetic spirit. Their wares range from flea-market junk to rare antique finds for the home; there’s also a heavy sprinkling of modern boutiques catering to the college-age set. Unexpected neighbors –such as old sewing-machine repair shops situated next to historical motels– attest to the real estate revolution still emerging on the strip. Bars, espresso stands, burger joints, and taco stands have popped up, and music is everywhere; on First Thursday each month, shops stay open late, and the musicians and street vendors come out to play.
Eschewing big-box retailing and Madison Avenue luxury stores, Austin’s creative artisans –in part galvanized by a store called Parts & Labour (1604 S. Congress Ave. 512-326-1648)– provide graphic for-the-home creations, such as embellished laundry baskets and colorful polka-dotted desk chairs. This is a store with a heart and compassion for the local artist, and well worth the visit.
Blackmail (1202 S. Congress Ave. 512-326-7670), where everything in the store is, well, black, is inspired by retailer Gail Chovan’s love of film noir and Belgian and Japanese designers of the 1980s. Witty quotations about the importance of all things black peer down from the high walls of this circa 1889 dry goods store. At first I was skeptical, but one trip around the space reassured me of the true sense of style and wit inside, and then my eye landed on some striking black-and-white earthenware bowls.
At Mi Casa Gallery (1700A S. Congress Ave. 512-707-9797), I stumbled upon some amazing, very old retablos from Mexico, some worth four figures, in a store full of rugged, throwaway Mexican pottery and rustic artifacts. The staff isn’t very knowledgeable, but the buyer’s passion and skill for collecting is obvious, and these were rare pieces. Be sure to ask to see the backroom.
Uncommon Objects (1512 S. Congress Ave. 512-442-4000), a large antiques collective, offers mostly small, decorative American home artifacts, which are collected and presented by 18 professional dealers. Part business and part circus in atmosphere, the collective’s slogan is Raw materials for creative living. Enchanted creative living, I’d say.
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I’ve seen a few art galleries in my time, but the gallery space in Yard Dog (1510 S. Congress Ave. 512-912-1613) overflows with talent and wit. Just inside the door, I ask the owner if the art is made by prisoners or self-taught artists, and I learn that the pieces are actually made by very important folk artists from all over the nation. This gallery owner knows how to present a cohesive collection.
Tinhorn Traders (1608 S. Congress Ave. 512-444-3644) is a caricature, a shop unabashedly dedicated to the twangy side of rope- em Texana (think 1940s sombrero ashtrays). The buyer’s latest antique discovery is displayed with an attitude that says, Yeah, it’s dusty. But that’s a good thing, pardner! Although my dcor may have taken the other fork in the road, my inner cowboy still finds plenty of amusement here, and for those in search of Western nostalgia, there is an authenticity about this collection to appreciate.
A short drive from South Congress, a twentysomething-year-old masterpiece of a store called Gardens (1818 W. 35th St. 512-451-5490) is as close to retailing nirvana as I’ve ever come. When it comes to merchandising wisdom and product awareness, the owners of this business are the sages of their day. Large, rare, clean-lined Belgian pottery fills the back lot, and carefully selected items from around the world abound. Particular finds are Japanese tansu and huge shelving units of exquisite refinement. The store also carries thoughtfully chosen gardening and design books, and the hard-to-find Lisn incense collection.
EAT HERE
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| SWIM ON IN: The seafood is heaven at Austin’s new 7. |
34th Street Cafe
100 W. 34th St. 512-371-3400.
Owner Eddie Bernal wanted to create a homegrown restaurant with fresh, simple food; friendly staff; and a simple, clean interior. Hiring architect Tracey Overbeck was a good move, and the relaxed, modern interior feeds the eye while the garden salads, Tuscan pizzas, chalupas, quesadillas, and gourmet sandwiches take care of the body for lunch and dinner.
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1716 S. Congress Ave. 512-383-8877.
Chefs Sam Dickey, brother of former Star Canyon chef Garreth Dickey, and Will Packwood are the force behind this sparkling, aqua-toned tile emporium for seafood, which isflown in from points around the globe. If the New England clam chowder is on the menu, do not miss it. If not, indulge in the unique pay-by-the-ounce menu so you can sample avariety of choices in the same meal. Lunch and dinner.
La Traviata
314 Congress Ave. 512-479-8131.
This is the most-whispered secret in town for its excellence in northern Italian fare and stone-walled, softly lit ambience. With seating for 40, it’s often the restaurant of choice for romantic special occasions, but the true magnet is chef Marion Gillcrest’s elegant flavors, including a spicy three-meat pasta Bolognese, which is slowly, lovingly prepared over the course of 15 hours. Lunch and dinner.
STAY HERE
The Driskill Hotel
604 Brazos St. 512-474-5911.
An 1886 iron-and-stone, grand hotel and a magnificently restored landmark. A popular rustic leather and longhorn-laden bar provides space for lobbyists and legislators tall tales, and tall ceilings create a regal ambience in the original building’s guest rooms.
Hotel San Jos
1316 S. Congress Ave. 512-444-7322.
Originally opened in 1936 as a motor court hotel, the new retro-minimal design motif provides a refreshing new angle for no-fuss, affordable accommodations. Relaxing, cool, crushed-granite floors blend with wood fixtures. Sage and sand tones color the walls and weave in and out of public spaces, setting an urban, sophisticated air.
Lake Austin Spa Resort
1705 South Quinlan Park Rd. 512-372-7300.
Thirty minutes from town, this top-rated, world-class spa resort offers a peaceful refuge within ornate wrought-iron gates. Great for family getaways, with lots of outdoor activities and scores of pampering options (try the river rock massage or the pumpkin body wrap).
