A Touch of Glass

a touch of glass

The most overlooked element in the appreciation of fine wines is the shape of the glass. Enter the Austrian house of Riedel, whose motto is, “The content commands the shape.” Riedel produces goblets at various price points, ranging from handcrafted crystal to machine-made stems for the broader wine-drinking market.

Whatever its price, the perfect vessel should combine the personality of the wine—its taste, smell, and appearance—with a container beautiful in and of itself. The shape of a well-crafted glass allows an appreciation of the intensity and quality of the wine’s bouquet. The rim of the glass is physiologically designed (preferably cut and polished, not rolled) and directs flavors to the most pleasurable parts of the human palate, thereby enhancing nuances of the wine.

And size does matter when it comes to stemware: red wines like to live large, but white wines are content in medium-sized glasses. It is critical not to overfill the glass in order to allow some evaporation space to suit the potable’s personality—keep pours limited to four to five ounces for red wine or three ounces for white.

An excellent starting point for a quality wineglass collection is the Vinum Extreme series, a machine-made, midrange Riedel line that showcases the firm’s engineering expertise. Premium wine retailers such as Marty’s and Red Coleman’s offer a four-piece tasting starter set for $125; individual stems are priced at less than $30.

Riesling
Riesling is the staple grape of Germany and Alsace and can be either dry or sweet. This varietal can sometimes be intriguingly complex, but it is almost always assuredly pleasant. It is light to medium in body with a distinct “petrol” scent to its flowery nose. Tapered glasses, which direct wine to the center of the tongue, showcase the fruitiness of moderately acidic wines such as Riesling.

Chardonnay
Complex, complete, and well balanced, chardonnay is light golden in hue and medium- to heavy-bodied. Tropical fruit, melon, and citrus notes sing in young wines. Chardonnay, especially in California, is often heavily oaked to add toast, caramel, and butter notes to its taste profile. A dramatic, diamond-shaped bowl offers a wide evaporation surface and enhances chardonnay’s bouquet and the perception of silkiness on the palate.

Cabernet Sauvignon
The king of red wine has its roots primarily in Bordeaux’s Haut Medoc. Heavy-bodied, dark, and densely red, cabernet displays cassis and rich berry aromas in addition to frequent  herbaceous notes. Cabernet’s boldness is tempered by time and blending with merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. The aromas of complex, intense wines such as cabernet are focused by a narrow rim and benefit from a more cylindrical bowl, which de-emphasizes acid on the palate.

Pinot Noir
Pinot noir is the delightfully difficult yet sexy queen of King Cab. Feminine, complex, and fickle, this red menace is the hardest wine to grow and a triumph when it is mastered. Pinot ages beautifully, gaining complexity and silkiness over time. The varietal’s aroma is rich with dark cherry and sometimes a linden scent. This highly acidic wine is best in flared-rim stemware so that the tip of the tongue receives the wine’s sweetness before the sides can register its acidity.