White Wines 101

Without a doubt, the most popular white wine in America is chardonnay, but with over-popularity comes sticker shock and jaded palates. True, the great white burgundies of France—Montrachet, Pouilly Fuissé, Chablis—are all chardonnays, but their overblown, oily, and over-oaked New World cousin has been voted off the island. Here are a few alluring, food-friendly alternatives for fans of dry white wine.

Viognier
Once known only as the prized Condrieu of France’s Northern Rhone Valley, viognier (vee-oh-NYAY) is now  successfully grown in California, South Africa, and Australia and is enjoying rising international celebrity. This varietal is fat and rich, high in alcohol and low in acidity, possessing an exotic honeyed-fruit bouquet. Like chardonnay, U.S. producers sometimes over-oak it, but when fermented in stainless steel, viognier’s broad range of flavors are masterfully preserved. Serve this white as an aperitif or with curry, sushi, Pan-Asian delicacies, or seafood with butter-based sauces. Embrace the youthful delights of viognier—enjoy it two to three years from bottling.

• Domaine Lurton Viognier, France,2000 ($8)
• Martine’s Viognier, California, 2000 ($12)
• Perry Creek Estate Bottled Viognier,El Dorado, 1999 ($17)
 
Sauvignon Blanc
This classic herbaceous backbone of the Loire’s beloved Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé is mouthwatering and uncomplicated. Sauvignon blanc is crisp and highly acidic, light to medium-bodied, often with flinty mineral characteristics. The Brits liken its taste to tart gooseberries, and its nose is accurately and professionally known as “cat piss.” Californian Robert Mondavi gave sauvignon blanc a push with an oaky interpretation he termed fumé blanc. Purists will avoid this chardonnay wannabe. Today the varietal’s zesty unoaked interpretations from California, Chile, and New Zealand are attracting new fans among wine drinkers. Sauvignon blanc is short-lived and meant for the pleasures of the moment. It is an unparalleled partner with salads and vegetables of all kinds—even those challenging green ones such as artichokes and asparagus. Not to be missed is the pairing of this vibrant varietal with an herby goat cheese like chèvre.

• Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc, Rapel Valley, 2000 ($9)
• Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc, California, 2000  ($10)
• Red Birch Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 1999 ($15)

Pinot Blanc
Pinot blanc is a dandy alternative to chardonnay, though not related as once believed. Pinot blanc is a member of the pinot family of Burgundy and sees its most eloquent expressions in the wines of Alsace, California, and Italy’s Alto Adige. It is yeasty and fresh, with hints of spice, peach, and pear. Though crafted for early consumption, this varietal develops delightful honeyed notes over time. Pinot blanc complements salty appetizers, foie gras, and California fusion dishes.
 
• Willm Pinot Blanc, Alsace, 2000 ($9)
• Monte Volpe Pinot Bianco, Italy, 1999 ($11)
• Saddleback Pinot Blanc, Napa, 2000 ($18)

Pinot Grigio
In its Northern Italian incarnation, pinot grigio is light, crisp, and dry, making it ideal for pasta primavera or lightly sauced fish or fowl. This white wonder can also be fat and honeyed when in Alsace it shows its stuff as pinot gris. Robust and refreshing, this French rendition is great with oilier fish as well as platters of cheese and cold cuts. Oregon’s pinot gris is medium to full-bodied with low acid and aromas of pear and apples. This cool charmer doesn’t need oak and is at home with seafood and salmon a mere six months after harvest. Don’t worry about aging. After one sip, it won’t last long in your cellar.

• Barone Pinot Grigio, Italy, 2000 ($8)
• Albrecht Pinot Gris, Alsace, 2000 ($14)
• Elk Cove Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, 2000 ($15)