From D CEO June 2008
SubscribeWHY 62 MAIN:
A meal at owner/chef David McMillan’s 62 Main in Colleyville is like a trip to Napa Valley minus all the touristy touches. In fact, it’s less event dining and more like a gourmet hideaway that only locals frequent. That’s impressive considering McMillan’s last stint was at Dallas’ five-star Nana at the Hilton Anatole, a popular “special occasion” restaurant with its stunning skyline views and spare-no-expense menu. At 62 Main, McMillan is less formal. Sunny and warm, the second-floor dining room overlooks the Mediterranean-inspired architecture of the Village of Colleyville retail development. The decor is very Napa: butter and mango colored walls, cobalt blue pendants, rustic accents, and, naturally, a wood-burning oven in the corner. Likewise, McMillan’s approachable menu reads like a cast of favorites: crab cakes, chicken club sandwich, filet of beef, oven-roasted flat bread, and the like. Just don’t mistake elegant simplicity for common and ordinary. McMillan’s genius lies in the details.
WHAT TO EAT:
That genius shined brightest on the most often maligned of appetizers: the crab cake. In McMillan’s hands, the moist, perfectly seared cake paired with a lovely melange of sweet and sharp flavors: apple compote, crushed pink pepper, tangy arugula, and a shaved parsnip/lemon horseradish emulsion the color of cotton candy. A simple salad of butter lettuce, green beans, olives, butter-fried almonds, ricotta, and dill vinaigrette dazzled as well. Entrees run the gamut from light and zesty (traditional Greek salad) to rich and meaty (a lunch portion of beef filet surrounded by a moat of port black shallot sauce). Even the humble chicken club sandwich received a gourmet twist. Bacon and avocado were to be expected. Basil aioli and a side of Parmesan truffle fries? That was a tasty surprise.
WHERE TO SIT:
The small room fills quickly and is quite loud during prime lunch time. (Seriously, is this where all of Colleyville’s heavy hitters dine?) The curvy banquette nearest the bar helps buffer the noise level. But for less private sessions, ask for the cozy two-top near the balcony. It makes for great people watching as you’re noshing.
THE DETAILS
62 MAIN
62 Main St., Suite 200,
Colleyville, 817-605-0858
THE FOOD:
Classic New American fare with gourmet flair
THE COST:
$$ (Average lunch entree price: $14)
WHO’S THERE:
Colleyville’s elite
WI-FI: Yes
FULL BAR: Yes