Trays piled high with golden biscuits—each split, filled with crispy chicken, and drizzled in gravy or blue cheese dressing—appear from a sliding window set into the brick for only a split second, whisked away in the next by satisfied college-age kids. The long picnic tables in Ben’s Triple B are rife with glistening brioche burger buns, crispy sweet potato fries, and biscuit sandwiches in every variation. Texas Wesleyan students lounge amongst the joy-stick game consoles. They sip frozen whiskey Cokes and heave sighs of relief into their bites of butter biscuit.
When Ben Merritt, the owner of Ben’s Triple B, opened his first restaurant in 2015—Fort Worth’s bar and brunch favorite, Fixture—he says no one knew much of anything about biscuits. Back then, opening a biscuit-focused venture was a risky play. Now? Fort Worth’s food scene is littered with new biscuit joints, each one presenting their own brand of Southern comfort.
Ben’s Triple B (meaning biscuits, burgers, and brews) was the first restaurant to come out of Rosedale Renaissance project, an initiative between Texas Wesleyan and the city to revamp the historical Polytechnic Heights neighborhood. Though many chefs might have balked at the idea of opening a restaurant so far off the beaten path, when Merritt saw the building slated for Ben’s Triple B, he fell in love immediately. The counter-service restaurant emanates arcade nostalgia, the perfect scene for Merritt’s dense, butter-based biscuits. Though Ben’s Triple B caters to a different crowd (college kids) than Fixture, Merritt’s finesse is present in every affordable menu option. Merritt’s second venture, though, is just the tip of Fort Worth’s biscuit iceberg.
For Fort Worth, 2019 was a year for biscuits. In January, Burleson-based biscuit and coffee company, Dwell, moved into the old Sovereign Bank building, gracing the 1970s-era construction with a now-popular off campus food option. Their buttermilk biscuit and simple, breakfast-centric sandwich fillings (scrambled eggs, sausage patties, cheddar cheese, and the like) compliment their coffee offerings. Similar to Ben’s Triple B, the space has become an unconventional student hangout, where TCU students can be spotted chowing on a biscuit-half slathered in local jam with one hand and scrolling on their laptop with the other.
More recently, local pop-up-turned-restaurant Hot Box Biscuit Club and The Biscuit Bar’s fourth location have both arrived in Forth Worth. Hot Box opened its doors on South Main last October, with a diner-reminiscent façade straight out of the fifties. Inside, diners can indulge in Bloody Marys, buttermilk biscuit sandwiches, housemade pickles, and freshly fried chicharrones. If, for some reason, that isn’t enough to fill you up, a stroll down South Main will bring you to the Dusty Biscuit airstream—a wildly popular beignet food truck that just secured a permanent placement inside boutique shopping center The 4 Eleven. We know, not technically a biscuit, but we promise the Dusty Cristo (fried ham and cheese filled beignet slider) is a delicious and not-so-distant cousin.
It’s unsurprising then, that The Biscuit Bar chose Fort Worth’s Stockyards for its newest location. The Mule Alley biscuit addition opened its doors for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in August. Here, you’ll find a more fast-casual approach to the made-from-scratch biscuits with both sweet and savory takes. Beer, cocktails, coffee, and kombucha are also on tap.
Whether this resurgence in biscuits is an exercise in nostalgia or a result of craving comfort, the addition of four new biscuit places in a year has turned Fort Worth into a biscuit hub. From buttermilk to butter-based, sausage and gravy to a la mode, Fort Worth brings you back to childhood days spent at grandma’s. Now with a side of cocktails.