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Restaurant Reviews

Stephan Courseau Gets to the Meat of It

The restaurateur expanded his Knox-Henderson empire with Georgie, which has spun into a fully takeout affair.
Courtesy Georgie

In these times, it feels strange and more than a little surreal to run restaurant reviews. But here we are. The reviews—like this one for Georgie—in the April issue currently out on newsstands were filed more than a month ago in February. We were still in the distant past of a pre-March 16 restriction on in-room dining.  

Times have changed. And it’s important to note that many, many employees, on all levels of the hospitality industry, have been laid off or furloughed. But these assessments, rising from and evoking a recent “before,” speak to the whiplash that new businesses, which had the misfortune to open during these months, have experienced. (Others are in the same boat, pivoting hard.)  

In the case of Stephan Courseau, he’s spun quickly to a three-in-one model, offering take-away fare from his Le Bilboquet, Up on Knox, and Georgie through the butcher shop, which opened only days before the shutdown.  

And so you’ll find that the three-in-one takeout menu features the highly pedigreed, extremely niche Blackmore Australian wagyu as a bone-in rib-eye ($240) or NY strip ($64) from this review (now, obviously, without the option of picking out your own Laguiole or Opinel steak knife before tucking in), as well as the rotisserie chicken served with two sides and rosemary jus ($29). You can pick these up at the butcher shop, along with meats and deli items to go, from whole chickens to caviar, goat cheese and rabbit rillettes. (Mike Lawson, who worked at charcuterie haven Macellaio before heading up the charcuterie program at Georgie, was stuffing sausage casings and hanging loins for dry-cured salumi long before Georgie opened.) The wine list is being offered at a 60 percent discount.

Because some quarantine times call for quarantine steaks. Maybe with a Petrus or Meursault from a list that now, more than ever, makes exploring French wines seem like perhaps both a nerdy and primordial shut-in activity.   

Takeout hours: 10–7:30 p.m. daily. Delivery options within a two-mile radius from 5–7 p.m. (with a minimum $20 order). 

Again, here’s the Georgie restaurant review.