Tuesday, April 23, 2024 Apr 23, 2024
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Park Cities

Eat This Now: Panna Cotta at Il Bracco

We're into this silky Italian treat.

Il Bracco is very Park Cities. The new Preston Center restaurant’s design is impeccable (other than the fact that hard surfaces—think terrazzo tile—ricochet sound on a noisy night). The food is not rustic Italian, but Italian enough. Think cacio e pepe and a glass of Barbera, chosen from the mostly-Italian wine list.

And then there is this: the simple panna cotta.

I’m still recovering from the not-so-distant time when the cream-based pudding became the lazy, go-to dessert for restaurants with even a little bit of class, but not a lot of time to tinker. But a well-made panna cotta is a thing of beauty.

For dessert, I asked our server to surprise us, and when she reappeared, she set down something silky, light, and cool that left a lasting impression. The panna cotta in question is more like a slightly thicker, gelatin-set Greek yogurt, all tang and unctuousness. The body is made of both sour cream and buttermilk, a bit of freshly whipped cream folded in to add volume. On top, a generous smothering of fresh blackberry compote, pistachios, and crumbles of house-made biscotti.

They lined up ten different recipes, co-owner Matt Gottlieb says, as they searched for the perfect find. Cool, breezy, tangy—I’d say they got it right.

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