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Restaurant Reviews

Eat This Now: Khao Soi Gai at Too Thai Street Eats

Chicken curry gets an up-do.
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At Too Thai Street Eats, in the new shopping strip that holds Daiso and Snowy Village Korean shaved ice, owner Kunya Chaiwasun, who owns Best Thai Signature and Boba Tea and Treats, gives you a jolt of the rice noodles and vibrant colors, the medley of flavors—pungent, rich, and tangy—that you’d find mingling in the street food of Bangkok.

Here, sitting under colorful pennants, the food is best approached shared, family-style, eaten with sticky rice that comes in cylindrical woven baskets. Here you’ll find the elements of Thai food—the colors, aromatics, textures (there’s always a satisfying bit of crunch)—that makes Thai one of the most engaging cuisines.

And in Khao soi gai, a coconut-chicken curry noodle dish from Northern Thailand, whole chicken drumsticks are left to commune with slithery egg noodles in a rich, creamy broth like goldenrod-colored velvet under a thatch of crunchy fried egg noodles. It’s beautiful and deeply soul-soothing. One bite, and you’re not so much in Bangkok as Chiang Mai. Douse with lime, sprinkle with cilantro, and enjoy the ride.

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