I’m welcomed by a trio of wet noses and wagging tails as I approach the intimate, Cedar Springs-facing patio on a Tuesday afternoon. Two full-grown Weimaraners, Bacco and Lola, coolly sniff my feet as Nyla, a bouncy black lab puppy, gnaws on a piece of denim hanging from the knee of my distressed Levis. Not sure if it’s my squeal that catches the server’s attention, but within seconds the restaurant’s front door swings open and I’m greeted by a man in a stone blue apron.
This is my third time at Orno. The first was earlier this month during a long night of restaurant hopping. A friend and I sauntered past and, like gluttonous moths to a kitchen torch, were drawn to the amber glow pouring through the restaurant’s windows. We somehow manage to hoist our bellies, sloshing with pupusas and margaritas, up into the cloth-covered bar stools and are immediately greeted by owners Nael Rodriguez and Eli Pierce. The couple, busy pouring glasses of wine and mixing cocktails, smile warmly in unison. The duo welcomes every guest as if they’re attending a gathering at their home. Their joy is organic. It’s also infectious.
I stick with what’s already streaming through my system and order a margarita. The cocktail, a flawless blend of tequila, fresh lime juice, and a splash orange juice, is straightforward and balanced.
The space is intimate and chic. Adorned in brass shelves, a hodgepodge of gold decor, and navy 60s-inspired cloth seating. Sade croons overhead. I am relaxed, buzzed, and as comfortable as I’d be lounging in a close friend’s living room.
My second visit is during Sunday brunch. I sit at a table on the patio with all three dogs at my feet and indulge in blackberry lemon French toast and a breakfast sandwich: avocado, fresh spring mix, sliced tomato, crisp bacon and a runny over-easy egg squished between a spongy, halved croissant. Rodriguez later tells me that Virginia Madsen is seated inside with a group. He says they’re in town filming 1985. I’m too busy sharing my bacon with Nyla to notice.
Now, on the third visit, I am seated with Rodriguez, and sipping a Topo Chico at a booth in the back. His curly black hair is pulled back in a bun, and he’s sporting ripped black denim and a vintage button-up top from neighboring second-hand store Out of the Closet. He’s just come back from picking up his kids from summer camp. Like the pups, they’re a fixture in the restaurant. “Zoey (11) and Caelan (12) do everything,” he says. “Minus bartending, obviously. They even help prep food. This restaurant is a family outfit…the whole family.” Mid sentence, as if on cue, Bacco presses his nose up to the window and stares into the restaurant. “Look,” Rodriguez says pointing towards the shiny grey dog. “He’s looking for me.”
While Orno is his first restaurant, Rodriguez has been working in the service industry since he was 18. “My first job was in 1995 at Chili’s Too at Love Field,” he says. “I was a Chili-head. I had corporate training, and it was a great base for what customer service should be.” Rodriguez met Pierce while working as the bar manager at Wild Salsa. She came in with a friend. He made her margaritas. They’ve been inseparable since. The restaurant owner also spent time at Meso Maya, Ceviche, and Brooklyn Jazz Café. “I’m a typical server, manager, bartender,” he says. “I bounced around…I met [Orno’s] chef, Kenny Ray, at Ceviche. He was a line cook and wanted to spread his wings. So here he is.” The menu, which features a handful of flatbreads, salads, and hardy meat-centric entrées changes weekly. The bar offers a selection of cocktails, and will eventually feature house-infused liquors. All draft beers are $5.50. “I want people to come here and enjoy themselves,” says Rodriguez. “And let’s be honest, that happens with a little buzz.”
Music is important to the vibe here, too. “I love all kinds of music,” says Rodriguez. “I grew up on classical with my dad. And the ’80s. My daughter loves Prince, it’s one of her favorites.” he pauses, and points up into the atmosphere. “This is Robin Thicke ‘Angels’, it’s a super jazzy song. Right after the six minute mark it goes down and then crescendos into this, and now it’s nothing but improve,” another pause. “Maybe I should turn it up!” He stands up and darts towards the stereo system, pausing to greet a customer on his way, and cranks it.
Orno features live music Thursday through Saturday and during Sunday brunch. The eventual goal is to host musicians daily. Another plan is to offer late-night New York-style pizza by the slice. But they have yet to perfect a recipe. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday and brunch on Sunday.
Orno quietly opened at the end of May and already has a steady stream of regulars. “There’s so much opportunity in this neighborhood,” says Rodriguez. “I knew if there was ever a place to open, it would be in this community. I’ve had nothing but warm welcomes.”
Seems the welcomes go both ways.
