It’s not a “clear” ceviche, with just the bright tang of lime, but a soothing and luxurious one, unusual with its blend of mayonnaise mingled with herbs. Mexican oregano is in there, making the cream feisty, along with tomatoes, avocado, red onion, and a squirt of hot sauce.
The fish is the same good-quality red snapper that goes into Taquero’s excellent fish tacos (where it appears in big pieces under a flurry of purple cabbage and house-made jalapeño ranch). The style is from owner Fino Rodriguez’s home region of San Luis Potosi.
Both creamy and fresh, at first it was an off-menu item, then a Friday-only commitment to plan your week around. Now it’s an everyday thing, and worth seeking out. To my mind, it beats any in town.
On Fridays, before it hit the everyday line-up, the wait might be long, the sun warm, the outdoor-only seating still cool under the shading overhang. Someone would come out of the tiny kitchen to hand out a few spoonfuls on a plate. People visibly panted for more. And when it came, you’d feel lucky at your counter seat with your swimming-pool blue bowl. On a day that calls for ceviche.