Saturday, May 21, 2022 May 21, 2022
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Food & Drink

French Fry-Day: Stackhouse Burgers

I finally discovered some fat fries.
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The fries at Stackhouse Burgers. Photo by Nancy Nichols.

I must admit Stackhouse Burgers fell off my burger rotation a few years ago. No particular reason. Traffic patterns change. My mind changes. After last week’s In-N-Out skinny fry review, I sat watching the birds on the bird feeder in my backyard and I put that mind to work. No Google. I held my head in my hands and concentrated. After I excused a few hidden demons, I reached my taste memory and switched on my fry light. Yeah, Off-Site Kitchen is a no brainer, but I was searching for something fatter.

I didn’t want to go to a fancy steakhouse, which is usually where the humdinger fries are served. Wait! (Click,click.) Steakhouse! Wait! (Opening visuals.) Stackhouse Burgers! Yes! I remember! The fries at this nifty fixed-up house restaurant were developed by James Rose, the former chef at the original Bob’s Steak & Chop House on Lemmon Avenue. Rose has moved from Stackhouse to join his former boss, Bob Sambol, at The Hall in Trinity Groves. Sambol says Rose is making great fries there right this minute. But what an opportunity for an investigative French fry reporter. I could sneak into Stackhouse and see if they were still up to snuff.

Boy howdy, these fries are superb. They are thick, hand-cut with skin on, and firm. An order features a delicious proportion of long, short, nubs, and crunchy bites. At the risk of going all Mama Bear on you, these fries were just right. I ate them all up. Plus, if you get them to go, they’ll punch 57 holes (I counted) in the top of the Styrofoam container. Yes, it looks like the box has been splayed with bullets from a Tommy gun, but they allowed the potatoes to breathe. They were still alive when I got home 15 minutes later. Which is more than I can say about the dudes who met up with Al Capone on February 14, 1929.

Eat these fries, but do it at the restaurant. There is a nice little patio upstairs that deserves your attention as well.

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