Dinner Lab is a unique “semi-pop up” concept that allows chefs to receive unabridged feedback from paying customers on a variety of dishes ranging from the experimental to reliable hallmarks. Notably, these experiences do not occur in any brick and mortar facility bearing any chef’s name. The Lab travels to unconventional venues and no one is revisited twice in any municipality.
Over the weekend, executive chef Kyle McClelland and chief mixologist Michael Martensen provided a preview of what may, or may not, be on the menu at Madrina, which is anticipated to open this July in The Shops of Highland Park. This new concept from Misery Loves Co. (Proof + Pantry and Driftwood (closed)) will showcase traditional Mexican ingredients prepared with the influence of classical French techniques.
Our venue was a recently transformed automobile transmission warehouse on Davis Street in Oak Cliff. True to form, Martensen continuously poured Negronis, swapping out the traditional gin with mezcal, in partnership with vermouth and Campari. The result was vibrant, smoky, and refreshing on an overcast Dallas night in the open-air venue.
Of mention was the marinated crab plated with lime, melon, celery and a green cilantro crema. The crab was sweet and succulent, which played nicely with the acid from the lime and sugar from the fresh melon. Barbecued bass presented with a hot and sweet pepper reduction and completed with caramelized allium (a type of garden onion) was a crowd favorite. The fish was light and flaky, with a crispy skin charred by way of Chef’s blowtorch. The last savory course featured flank steak was seasoned with tamarind and served medium rare. Handmade tortillas served family style led to flavorful DIY tacos, with a requisite crunch coming by way of a jicama and mango salsa.
Madrina, Spanish for “Godmother” is sure to be one of the more unique fusion concepts in Dallas.
