Plenty of my friends make brunch dates just as an excuse to have a mimosa. Or three. When I heard that Bishop Arts Winery is now serving breakfast, we decided to get our morning pick-me-ups there.
Owner Elias Rodriguez is only three weeks into serving breakfast, but its debut seems well-received. On Sunday, his place was a magnet for young couples; I counted three while I was there. One of those duos – apparently regulars in such a short time – strolled in with their iPads and settled in at a fireside table on the patio. Their cozy choice was enviable.
I, on the other hand, sat next to a 54-gallon drum of 2012 Dolcetto and shared a banquette with a dad and son who sunk quarters into a Wurlitzer that’s among dozens of antiques strewn about the place. Thanks to them, I had an extra mimosa to the sounds of “Benny and The Jets” and “Girls Just Wanna Have Fun.” But it’s not like I was complaining. You know that notorious Everclear bellini at The Grapevine? Imagine one of those, but the fact that these mimosas are made with in-house Texas wine classes it up a few notches. Also, brunch drinks go down so much better with food.
The menu’s tiny and under $7. I was tempted by a fresh waffle with sliced strawberries and by the fire-grilled tamale. However, I was in the mood for many mimosas, so I order the biggest thing on the menu: a veggie omelette with Asiago cheese toast. It also came with a side of two tiny sausage biscuits.
The service is quick—a rarity for anything associated with the words “Bishop Arts”—and the cook is a pro who earned her stripes at nearby Greek Cafe.
Breakfast seems like a peculiar choice for a place that served only cheese boards until two weeks ago, but Rodriguez is finally branching out by offering a small assortment of sandwiches and appetizers, which is suitable for a place where winemaking is the focus.
While the menu might not impress gourmands, Rodriguez makes up for it with his generosity. The morning I was there, he served his guests—not that jukebox dad’s boy, of course—with a sample of an off-the-menu concoction: a warmed-up peach wine infused with Mexican cinnamon. It was like a shot of cobbler that made me feel warm inside. No fireside patio seating needed.
*Breakfast is served Wednesday through Sunday. For a look at the menu, go here.