Central 214: Chef Graham Dodds is Nuts for Eggs

Photographer Kevin Marple+Graham Dodds' Scotch egg=Central 214 deliciousness.

Graham Dodds, execuchef at Central 214, is doing some crazy stuff with eggs. He serves a Poached Farm Egg: an egg atop a Lyonnais salad of chopped greens, lardons and crumbled Caprino Royale goat cheese ($10 at lunch and pictured below the jump). Cut the floppy egg with your knife and the viscous yolk flows out like molten lava and runs with an iridescence that makes you wonder if you should be wearing protective dark glasses. {Ed. note: I’m leaving it in!]

The unavoidable feeling of richness carries through to the taste as well. It reminds me of what a farm egg is supposed to taste like. They do because Dodds buys them from Steven at Urban Acres. You can too. They come from Yellow Prairie Farm in Caldwell Texas,  where the farmer’s name is Dan. He is just one of the small producers that Dodds has fastidiously sought out during his years working as a chef.

Jump for the glory of Graham Dodds’ eggs.

I got the scoop on Central 214’s farm-to-table approach last week from when I dined  with two California winemakers and a wine industry marketing executive from San Francisco. We had the triple cooked fries (best in Dallas) and slow-cooked goat brisket (people almost forgot their manners scrambling for morsels) but we also tried the exquisite poached farm egg. I was pleased to see their obvious pleasure in the food they were served and their surprise that such a central Californian idea being executed so successfully in Dallas.

Poached farm Egg at Central 214


  • Wow…

  • Kirk

    Not to diminish Chef Dodds’ sourcing efforts or repertoire, but a poached egg atop a salad is hardly “crazy stuff with eggs.” Salade Lyonnaise is one of the basic salads served in every bouchon in Lyon, and can be found almost everywhere else in France. It always has a poached egg on top. I’ve never seen anyone eating it with protective dark glasses, unless they had consumed too much of Lyon’s third river the night before.

  • Kirk, my edit. injecting excitement because Central 214 is not in a bouchon in Lyon.

  • primi timpano

    That egg seems like it lacks any kind of molten yolk. Hard boiled by my eyes. The Parisian style bistro in the Uptown Village served a frisee salad with lardons and poached egg.

  • Kirk

    Nancy: You don’t have to go to Lyon to get a salade lyonnaise. http://video.nytimes.com/video/2010/06/18/dining/1247467123063/salade-lyonnaise.html

  • Alfonso (aka primi timpano): The lower picture.