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Restaurant Review: MesoMaya in Dallas

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MesoMaya’s braised achiote pork with black beans. Photography by Kevin Marple

I reviewed MesoMaya in the December issue of D Magazine. I ate there four times and ran out of friends and family willing to give it another try. And you? Have you been? Let’s talk.

The tagline on the menu at MesoMaya promises “an adventure into the fresh, bold, and earthy flavors of authentic interior Mexican cuisine.” I asked the waiter what that meant. “It is the food from where I come from,” he said, without telling me where he came from. “It is not like what you find at Mi Cocina. It is real Mexican food.”

Maybe his oversimplified explanation is all you need to know when you peruse MesoMaya’s menu, filled as it is with trendy items such as mole, guajillo, and pozole. But alarms went off in my head when a basket of warm chips and a bowl of salsa were set on the table. This ritual isn’t performed in the interior regions of Mexico; it’s a play straight out of a Tex-Mex handbook.

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