I don’t know if I told you, but I have a thing for donuts. Maybe that’s a bit of an understatement. But it’s rare, in this city, to find a place that is willing to push the limits when it comes to these tasty morsels of fried dough and sugar (obvious exceptions excluded). Therefore, any donut news is good news in my book, and any upstart entrepreneur that is daring enough to risk their livelihood, families, pets, and entire life’s savings on the humble donut is A-OK with me.
When the buzz around Denton Square Donuts began to surface a number of months ago, I was intrigued to say the least. The obviously non-traditional shape of these donuts is enough to rouse one’s attention, but most donuteers will recall similarly shaped offerings at the mighty Doughnut Plant in NYC. The toppings which adorn DSD’s baked goods are also enough to get the salivary juices flowing: Brie with Apricot Jelly, Cream Cheese and Jalapeno Jelly, Apple Pie, and the nearly-ubiquitous Bacon and Maple. Yet still, some may argue that places like Hypnotic, Gourdoughs in Austin, and Voodoo in Portland have been offering up equally ambitious donuts for years.
Still, there is enough originality and adventure at Denton Square Donuts to justify a mini-excursion to this quaint corner of the world know as Denton Square. Undoubtedly, the most chatter/uproar/praise is likely to stem from the unorthodox texture of these donuts. Indeed, to say that they more closely mirror a baked turnover is not a far cry. One should not expect the golden greasy bits of fried dough we have all come to expect from a donut (mind you, I am in love with these golden grease traps). Instead, Denton Square’s are baked up light and flakey, but still sweet and tender. Jellies, creams, and icings are made with love and each donut is hand-crafted with care.
Of the handful of items on the menu board, I sampled as many as I thought my stomach could handle (and he gave it a pretty solid performance, I must say). I quickly fell in love with the “Samoan” with vanilla icing, toasted coconut, chocolate chips and caramel bits. The “Cinnamon Doughst” was also a pleaser, with creamy vanilla frosting, vanilla glaze, and a sprinkle of cinnamon/sugar, all complementing the lightness of the donut perfectly. The Bacon Maple was well executed and incorporated the much-loved combination of salty and sweet admirably.
Although DSD’s rendition of this classic American comfort food could never replace my beloved standard fried version, it’s nice to know that after a night of grease-drunk debauchery, filled with fried bubblegum, fried butter, and fried salsa, one can wake up to the lighter side of breakfast and still go home a happy camper.
208 W Oak Street