Monday, January 24, 2022 Jan 24, 2022
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Brunch

Reflections on Brunch at NOSH. A Few Words, Some Pictures, A Little Pining

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Watermelon tomato salad with balsamic reduction at NOSH. (Photo by Sarah Reiss)
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Reflections on Brunch at NOSH. A Few Words, Some Pictures, A Little Pining

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Watermelon tomato salad with balsamic reduction at NOSH. (Photo by Sarah Reiss)

We do so love a good brunch in this town. We love planning for it; we love that first read through the menu; we appreciate a good presentation; and, of course, we love talking about each bite while we’re eating it. So when Chef Jon Stevens invited me over on Sunday to check out the latest version of NOSH‘s weekend brunch menu, I was anxious to see how many of the aforementioned points he and his staff would be able to make good on.

We sat at the kitchen counter so that we could watch preparation. From this vantage point, I had the opportunity to photograph a couple dishes (the watermelon tomato salad at right and the slice of baby ice below) that I did not have the opportunity to taste. If you have tasted either one, be sure to chime in in the comments section.

jump for the pictures…

Our experience: the kitchen is indeed running full-throttle in the presentation, flavor, and service departments. We ordered fried green tomatoes, gazpacho, short rib hash, and buttermilk fried chicken & biscuits. The fried green tomatoes were pleasing, especially the accompanying salad, and although I would have enjoyed a little more seasoning in the breading, it’s a minor point. The gazpacho was unlike any I had tasted before, thin and perfectly balanced between sweet, salt, and acid with a light crunch of slices almonds floating in the broth.

The short rib hash was a manly delight, hearty, satisfyingly meaty, and robustly presented. But the real ace in the hole was the buttermilk fried chicken & biscuits. First of all, they were boneless (genius). Second, they were not greasy. Third, I would walk through the desert without sunscreen for that smoked bacon gravy, Finally, the biscuits were perfectly fluffy without being dry, gummy, or heavy.

But let’s dispense with the jibber-jabber and look at some pretty pictures, shall we.

NOSH's fried green tomatoes topped with mozzarella and served with frisee salad. (Photo by Sarah Reiss)
Gazpacho broth is poured over a molehill of quartered grape tomatoes and slivered almonds (left); NOSH's slice of baby ice with creamy blue cheese, applewood bacon, tomatoes, and candied pecans (right). (Photos by Sarah Reiss)
Beef short rib hash topped with a fried egg, peppers, and smoked paprika aioli. (Photo by Sarah Reiss)
The best fried chicken and biscuits I've had in as long as I can recall. The smoked-bacon gravy and bright salad pushed it over the top. (Photo by Sarah Reiss)