John Tesar Previews The Table in Dallas

Faux cuttle fish pasta with Iberico pork and lemon fondue at The Table in Dallas.

Chef John Tesar is on fire. The guy has been working non-stop since last winter. First, he kick-started the menu at The Cedars Social, where he still oversees the kitchen. Then he signed a lease on the Dali Wine Bar space and divided it into two restaurants: The Commissary and The Table.

Early returns from The Commissary are blissful. Colleagues have stopped by my cubicle and uttered “OMG” “To Die For” and “How can it be so good and so cheap?” “It blew my hair back!” Saaa-weet! The menu is centered on gourmet burgers and fine wine. It’s a burger joint with a sommelier (Scott Barber).  The other portion of the space, The Table is a 12-seat tasting room where Tesar will perform the higher end dishes that brought him to the Big Show. Teasar calls it “deconstructed fine dining.” He is resurrecting canapés!

Anywhoo, last night Tesar threw a private party at The Table. The guest list included Jennifer and David Uygur (Lucia), Chef Bruno Davaillon (Mansion execuchef), Michael Flynn (Mansion sommelier), Tim Byres (Smoke), Teiichi “Teach” Sakurai (Tei-An), and The “Ubiquitous” Brad. Who was that skinny little bitch sitting next to Byres? Our own Sarah Reiss. “The food was incredible,” Reiss said. “Tesar overwhelmed us (in a good way ) with 13 courses; he wanted to try everything out on his friends. I just sat back and listened to all the great industry talk and insider raves.” The 13-course, seafood-centric marathon, that was anticipated to last 150 minutes, lasted over 4 hours. Reiss gives the best dish award to the faux cuttle fish pasta with Iberico pork and lemon fondue.

Reiss said the talk at the table revolved around the current dining culture in Dallas and how chefs are trying new things on the menu (pig’s ear and tripe), and the fact that restaurateurs are more willing to take chances. “This generation is going to forever define the dining in this city,” said Tesar.

Wonderfully pompous or prophetic? Or both? The Commissary opens for lunch today. Go. Eat. Report.


  • chip

    Tesar can’t keep it up..he will melt down and fragment in 3, 2, 1…

  • DGirl

    Chip – please don’t go there. Just don’t.

  • Antonio

    If Tesar’s last three gigs are any indication (Mansion revamp, NYC, Namesake Restaurant in Houston), this strange dual-concept restaurant will eventually fall flat, as will his ego. Of any chef I’ve ever met or read about, he comes off so egotistical and needy.

  • chip

    @DGirl- you may want to view the tags that accompany the article: ‘nutjobs, ‘shameless self promotion’ and ‘overprivileged chimps’

    And yes ‘I went there’ because I have BEEN THERE with the guy and have been burned many times. To you he may be a fluffy little celebrity chef with a big smile and charisma..but for those of us that fought in the trenches with him…well, he’s, in fact, a nutjob.

  • Ridemcowgirl

    What Steve Doyle not there!

  • SandraB

    I can’t wait to try. What is the price range for each? One Arts is so fine!

  • VibratingBatteries

    Chip. Perhaps Tesar and company should get the vibrator in the link above. Fucking hilarious link Uncle Nancy. Maybe with it’s help Tesar can keep it up !, have a great day! Sweet!,,,!

  • Maria

    Is this really the forum to bash someone? Tesar may be all of those things that you say, but regardless his food is outstanding… Use your mouth for eating and not talking sh-t!

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  • Epifanio

    Yes, it actually is the forum, Maria.

    PS – My dog LOVES Kuby’s pig ears.

  • Maria

    i would think perhaps you would have something better to do with your time. maybe ill see you at the dog park.

  • mmmmmm…..

    I love reading the back and forth comments….they provide a lovely comedic interlude during my hectic day….and I’m searching for the “like” button for Maria’s last comment. For those who bash Tesar, don’t you know that all you do is add to the mythos? (E.g., You are feeding the fire you so vehemently despise.)

  • Pingback: First Take – John Tesar’s The Commissary in One Arts Plaza. It’s All About the Tots. | SideDish()