Restaurant Review: Whiskey Cake in Plano

The Three Little Pigs pulled pork sliders served on a warm brick. Photography by Kevin Marple.

This month in D Magazine, Sarah Reiss writes about three little pigs and a good burger.

In the bandwagon world of nouveau-rustic dining, one of the more damning descriptors a reviewer can ascribe to a restaurant is the word “franchiseable.” The term not only brings a curl to the lip of a certain breed of foodie, but it also puts the restaurant in the position of having to overcome typecasting.

Which brings us to Plano’s Whiskey Cake. Taking hold in the former Plano Tavern location, this neo-steampunk eatery—with its exposed brick, yellow-filament Thomas Edison bulbs, and warehouse sensibility—appears to be at war with itself. On one hand, we have the postindustrial aesthetic, on-site herb gardening, in-house curing, and advanced cocktailery—all tough to replicate. On the other, there are kitschy signs, costumed servers, familiar layouts, and an interior that feels like you have landed in Anywheresville, USA. This is not a value judgment as much as a recognition that, no matter how good the food, much of the Whiskey Cake concept screams “franchise.”

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  • lala

    Dang- I don’t eat meat and even THAT looks good to me. Much better than the sliders that Kent Rathbun burned on Fox4news this morning that he quickly covered up with BBQ sauce. Get back in the kitchen Kent, stop the shameless plugs and get your chef coat dirty in the kitchen.

  • Gipson

    I’d heard mixed things about this place, but Sarah’s review makes it sound gob-smackingly good. Definitely on the list now.

    Both the OMG Burger and that Banh Mi sandwich sound divine.

  • Mike

    @lala, saw the same thing this morning and thought he’s probably getting a little over extended.

    He should check out what’s going on up at his Zea grill. Had a horribly cooked piece of salmon there the other day. Dining partner had terrible chicken.

  • Kevin72

    My problem with this place is that they rely on the pulled bbq pork a little too often. Yes, it’s in the slider, but it was also in a cuban sandwich and the Banh Mi. I wouldn’t even mind if it was just pork shoulder cooked until it fell apart, then you reheat it in whatever seasonings needed for the dish, so maybe fish sauce and cilantro and garlic for the banh mi, some mojo for the cuban, etc. Once you get BBQ pork in there it takes over everything else and too many things on their menu taste the same.

  • A.D.

    @Gipson: I ate there a few weeks ago. Had the OMG burger and I can attest to the fact that it’s amazing. In fact, even the regular burger is one of the best I’ve had in a while. For reference: my favorite burgers in the area are from Angry Dog and Snuffers.