- Hidden Ridge Vineyard
Hidden Ridge Vineyard is one of the most impressive properties I have had the chance to visit, most simply for what owners Casidy Ward and her husband Lynn Hofacket have done in land which is not a typical location for planting rows and rows of vines.
Situated on the western slopes of Spring Mountain in California’s Mayacamus Mountain range, technically in Sonoma, but unlike any other wine being made in Sonoma. The vineyard sits at a 55% slope, which in walking felt more like a 90% slope as it seemed that I was walking straight up hill when visiting with Lynn, Casidy and winemaker Timothy Milos, who collaborates with winemaker Marco DiGiulio in Hidden Ridges production, today. The only way to get to the vineyard is via 4-wheel drive, ATV vehicles, by foot or by the occasional helicopter.
Formerly a hunting lodge, Lynn and Casidy purchased the land in 1991. They had envisioned making it into a remote home; but the land spoke to them, along with the realization that building a home on such difficult plot of land would not work, but grapes just might. They were right, as today they are producing some of the most distinct Cabernet Sauvignon I have tasted from the region.
2004, 2005 and 2006 Hidden Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon – I did a post on this wine a few weeks ago, but having it in a vertical (year after year) tasting with an incredible menu of Hidden Ridge Wild Mushroom Risotto and a Filet paired with figs, balsamic and Arugula at Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen was a definite treat. Chef/Owner Cindy Pawlcyn is a bit of a Napa Valley institution, as she established Napa favorite Mustard’s Grill over 25 years ago, and added Cindy’s Backstreet and Go Fish in subsequent years.
All were rich and lush with bold cherry, raspberry and blueberry flavors. Because the vineyard is located above the fog line that many Napa and Sonoma vineyards benefit from they use a sprawl terracing on their vines, this helps with over exposure from the sun and encourages shadowing for the grapes. They pride themselves on their mountain fruit and only make wine from their grapes to keep the distinction that Cabernet grown in this region, and in these conditions, can offer.
The 2004 production was only 982 cases, and used 2 Cabernet Sauvignon clones in its production, creating an elegant wine filled with licorice, berry and spice. Clone 337 offers a soft and succulent Cabernet; Clone 4 adds boldness and tannin.
As the vineyard continued to grow, the 2005 production increased to 1600 cases. Paired with the mushroom risotto the earthy qualities of this wine really shine. This vintage is a bit more fruit forward than the two others I tried, with smoke, cedar and spice aromas and black cherry flavors mixed with chocolate from the 18 months of aging in 80% new French oak. The wine is also bottled unfined and unfiltered, creating intense flavors and aromas throughout the wine.
I am a 2006 Napa/Sonoma Cabernet fan. Hidden Ridge has done a beautiful job of both growing their production for 2006 (this latest release, just out in May 2010 has about 3500 cases) and creating a wine with elegance that can easily stand up to other Napa Cabs. The 2006 contains all four Cabernet clones grown in the vineyard (Clone 4, 377, 7 and 169) and includes 20 months of aging in 85% new French oak. Though still a bit young, the wine is filled with mocha, anise, black cherry and blueberry flavors. Sweet spice aromas of clove and nutmeg mix with cherry, plum and tobacco. This wine should be able to age well over the next 10 years, but can easily be enjoyed now with something as simple as roasted peppers on focaccia with olive oil.
