One of the more interesting wineries in the world, Kumeu River Winery (the name is pronounced ‘Queue MYou’) came to Salum this week and presented a wine tasting with a paired with food by chef Abraham Salum. Kumeu River Chardonnay has a character all of its own. In the video above, co-owner and viticulturalist Milan Brajkovich talks about this character and its origins.
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We tasted a representation of the Kumeu River wines matched with this menu from Abraham Salum.
Kumeu River Wine Dinner Menu
Passed Hors D’Oeuvres
Rustic Paté with Dijon Mustard on Croutes
Phyllo Pastry Filled with Goat Cheese and Garlic
Caviar, Crème fraiche with Toast Points
2006 Kumeu River Sauvignon Blanc
First Course
Logan Brown’s Paua Ravioli with Coriander, Basil and Lime Beurre Blanc
2006 Kumeu River Pinot Gris
Second Course
Duck Confit and Roasted Apple Tarte Tatin, Leek and Rocket Salad, Honey Vinaigrette
2005 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay
Third Course
Grilled Lamb Loin, Dukkah Crust, Spinach and Chickpea Sauté
2008 Felton Road Pinot Noir
Cheese Course
Selection of North Otago Cheeses
(Windsor Blue, Livingston Gold and Aged Airedale)
Dessert Course
Warmed Spice Cake, Saffron Poached Pears, Three Vanilla Gelato
2005 Royal Tokaji Red label
In this video he talks about matching food with Kumeu River wines.
Kumeu River is most famous for its Chardonnays so just a few words about each of the other wines;
The 2006 Sauvignon Blanc was notable for having less of the full reheat herbaceousness that characterizes New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. It was has more minerality, not unlike a Loire Sauvignon Blanc.
The 2006 Pinot Gris had a nose of grapefruit, lemon and flint, and a taste of lemons with that flintiness again. This wine impressed me with its complexity (and I am the least impressed person when it comes to Pinot Gris/Grigio).
2008 Felton Road Pinot Noir is not a Kumeu River wine but a product of a completely different company, albeit represented by the same importer. It was present here because, although Kumeu make a Pinot Noir, the quantity is only one bottle a year and that was drunk by a Tuatara that gained access to the winery by claiming to be a famous film director and singing Beat It (it may have confused Michael Jackson with Peter Jackson). The Felton Road put on a good show in its own right. If you put this bottle in a lineup of Burgundy Pinot Noirs you couldn’t pick it out. Good value at about $33.
Likewise, 2005 Royal Tokaji Red Label was a guest wine. This famous dessert wine from Hungary has made a comeback since the breakup of the Soviet Union and is worth looking out for now. Its concentration is measured by Puttonyos (roughly, the Hungarian equivalent to cohones). The number usually ranges between 3 and 6. This one had 5, so it was pretty concentrated. It was a great match with the spice cake and its delicious ginger and cinnamon flavors.
The 2005 Kumeu River Chardonnay has a nose of mango and oak. In the mouth the fruit is cantaloupe. However, it is wrapped in a mineral envelope. This is what might lead one to think that this is a Burgundy. It is ready to drink now although, as Milan Brajkovich points out in the video, these wines age for a decade or longer. This wine was good, but not as good as an outrageously concentrated Kumeu River Chardonnay I had a few years ago. I suspected that had been one of the single vineyard chardonnays that top the Kumeu line. Milan suggested the Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay. A couple of days later, I found the 2005 Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay at Sigel’s on Fitzhugh for $50. A few hours later, surrounded by plates of Vietnamese food at the incongruously named, but congruously cheffed, Saigon Block , I knew that I had hit pay dirt. The style was less oaky but very refined. This wine only sounds expensive.
Finally, did you know that New Zealand makes cheese? That mass-produced soapy stuff, right? Well, the Windsor Blue and Aged Airedale are not. The latter, in particular, is no dog! Check them out.
