Willard Spiegelman wrote for us back in 2008 about how much he dislikes loud restaurants. We got to talking about the subject again after he’d recently visited Bolsa, a restaurant upon which we’ve heaped praise — but one which I will agree is pretty dang loud. Willard’s dispatch:
The Good Professor just returned from dinner at Bolsa in the Bishop Arts District. The food was wonderful — a plate of bruschetta (which no one in America seems to know how to pronounce properly: in Italian it’s “brusketta,” not “brushetta,” but why squabble?), followed by fabulous lamb shanks for some people at the table, duck breast for others, and scallops for others, with appropriate vegetables, and polenta, and lentils, and followed by a sublime dessert. This is one of Dallas’s most interesting, inventive, and excellent restaurants.
We were in heaven. Almost.
But, a big debit: the noise was overwhelming. The Good Professor made his debut in D Magazine more than a year ago by kvetching (you can look it up) about noise in restaurants. Why does no one take him seriously? We were hollering across a small table to make ourselves heard.
Is it worth it to go back to Bolsa and suffer such indignity for such good food?
The Good Professor is debating the question.
