Restaurant Review: Lunch at Sushi on McKinney

Sushi on McKinney's rainbow roll
Sushi on McKinney's rainbow roll

This was my first visit to Sushi on McKinney in either incarnation. Yes, longtime Dallas sushi fans lamented the loss of SM last year only to see it reopen a short time later a block south of its longtime McKinney Avenue location. I can only imagine they cried for the old girl because of the memories not the food. (It’s kind of how I am about the Charco Broiler in Pleasant Grove. But I digress.) I have no sake-clouded history to draw on. No “remember whens…” Just the platter of sushi placed before me. In a word: average. Not bad. Not great. Just okay. We wanted toro. They didn’t have it. Instead, we stuck to the basics. Tuna, salmon, and yellowtail were all perfectly nice, satisfying my cravings. But the rainbow roll–a combo of tuna, salmon, hamachi, and avocado–was perplexing. The salmon was silky and fresh yet the tuna looked dry and the hamachi tasted a tad fishy. Crab sushi was mealy and somehow salty. Octopus, happily, was super fresh. It had that snap and tension it needs without being chewy. I can’t say I hated the meal, nor was I delighted. SM might have been the place 20+ years ago. But I’ll be dropping my dollars at Yutaka, Zen Sushi, and Oishii first. Sushi on McKinney lovers, sound off in the comments. Let me have it.

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