My friend Eddie from L.A. has been in town for a week and a half. Since he has been here we have eaten our way across Dallas. Eddie and I used to cater together in L.A. back in the Middle Ages. Twice a year, he comes to Dallas to help me review restaurants.
Eddie and my mom are great friends. When I go to work, they go to the movies or to J.R.’s. The other night, my dear mother took us to The String Bean at Coit and Spring Valley (next to Sunnyland) because she thinks they serve the best chicken fried steak in Dallas. Eddie, a CFS virgin, was game. Here is a quick report.
The String Bean has been open at one location or another for 30 years. It is cheap, the waitress are old-school friendly, and the food is just what you’d expect. Vegetables are overcooked the way a lot of people in Texas like them. The wine may or may not taste like vinegar—you’re better off ordering a scotch and water ($4).
The night we visited, the chicken fried steak dinner served with two vegetables, fresh rolls and cornbread was $13.95. For two dinners. Here is why my mom loves The String Bean’s version: the meat is thin and the batter is crispy and sticks to the meat. Each bite is hot and crunchy. The homemade mashed potatoes are light and fluffy and the rich cream gravy would have been perfect if they’d spiked it with more pepper. I’m sure most of the TSB clientele prefer it that way and they do provide a small pepper grinder at each table so you can easily adjust to your liking.
So here’s the deal—if you live in the area, I’d say a trip to The String Bean is worth a visit. To paraphrase a good food-loving friend of mine–I wouldn’t drive across Dallas in a rain storm to eat there. Unless I knew my mom was meeting me there.
