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Chef Gilbert Garza Can Cook

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Last night I took my mom, her BFFFITW, and my Sig-O (Hi, FF Kim!) to dinner at Suze. This cozy neighborhood spot has really blossomed into a sophisticated, yet casual, dining destination. Garza’s gumbo was a spectacular file-scented broth filled with chunks of fresh okra and topped with three or four fried okra balls. Nice texture and taste contrasts. Both seafood entrees were delish: A pan-fried trout layered over crunchy quinoa and a red fish floating in a clean, lightly curried Moroccan sauce. The French fries are amazing: thinly sliced, double-fried strips tossed with fresh pepper bits big and small, sea salt, and truffle essence.

We tried a new dessert: apple pie served with Roquefort ice cream. The frozen, heady cheese was a little overwhelming. Okay, it was a lot overwhelming. Garza admits the dish is a work in progress (they make the ice cream there) and he is cutting the cheese down. (Sorry, couldn’t help myself.) Wife Lisa was not in the restaurant but Gilbert says that she is close to inking a deal for her own TV show. In the meantime, go try that gumbo. Jump for photos!

(Photos: Trout over quinoa; French fies on a doiley. BTW, doilies are a trend. You heard it here first.)

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