Thursday, May 23, 2024 May 23, 2024
72° F Dallas, TX
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Restaurant Reviews

Mini Review: Cowboy Chow

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Just had lunch at Jason Boso’s (of Twisted Root Burger Co. fame) new Deep Ellum restaurant Cowboy Chow. Trust me: You’ll get the concept as soon as you walk in the door. It’s a little too kitschy in its chuckwagon/cowboy theme. Likewise, the food is awfully precious (fried green tomato lollipops, mash tater and brisket parfait in a French hermetic terrine, and the like) but pretty darn tasty. The tater parfait was like a Wild West-inspired Shepherd’s pie and the table favorite. The (what else?) Cowboy grilled cheese with brisket, horseradish cheddar, and grilled onions on Texas toast was uber decadent and delicious. But what most caught us offguard? Watermelon sweet tea. And we loved it. The brew was just sweet enough and tasted like real watermelon, not those sickly sweet Now and Later hard candies you sucked on as a kid. All in all, good food and great vibe despite the yee-haw theme park trappings.

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